Re: [h-cost] h-costume Digest, Vol 14, Issue 53
On 12/17/2015 2:00 PM Fran said: Everything takes longer than it was supposed to. Amen, sistah! Preach it! We ordered 4 replacement windows for the livingroom of our 1960 ranch on May 5. Installation was finally finished on Nov 23. The first set arrived broken, the second set had 2 flawed windows that weren't discovered until after the whole wall & exterior cladding was completely installed, and we went through another set of 2 replacements coming in with massively visible problems everly 3 1/2 weeks until Thanksgiving week. Don't order Vista brand windows until there's evidence that they've fixed their manufacturing & inspection problems! Mary Piero Carey aka Lady Maria of Alderford ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] request for Advice on a Pattern
Has anyone used Rocking Horse Farm's Sleeveless Surcoat pattern? I've got some lovely gold & silver brocade that should be just barely enough. But the instructions are EXTREMELY sketchy & the seam marks don't seem to match. Nor do some of the little dots for the pleats. I've cut a muslin, but I'm having no luck with the under-arm area. There must be a pleat, but there is the oddest little jaggedy bit I can't figure what to do with no matter how I fold things. I'm about ready to throw up my hands & redraft the bl**dy thing. But I don't know this period well enough to guess what should be going on in the side panel. I'd be very grateful for any input. Yours, Mary Piero Carey aka Lady Maria of Alderford ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] early 20th Century Franco-American weddings
Has anyone asked an old priest or nun from the area? I'll bet somone from the diocese office would know. Or is there a near-by convent? I'd ask at the monastery down the street, but I'm 800 miles away & most of the Catholics around here are German, Italian or Irish. Mary ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] What's your dressmaker's dummy wearing today?
On the dummy: An unfinished pirate shirt, an embroidered peasant top that needs cut down in size, an odd little jacket I'm contemplating something steampunky about, all of the Dear Hubby's shirts I need to iron, but can't get to until the duct-suckers leave. (And my goodness, aren't they a Decorative pair of young men!) There is a windbreaker getting new cuffs, and a knitted scarf that's about 4 rows from casting off sitting on my table beside the recliner. There's a giant dreamcatcher-like object from a yard sale in the laundry room waiting for a few new bits of suede ties to repair its webbing. There's an amazingly small bundle of assorted mending on the to-do pile, just hem & button repairs, dead elastics etc. 4 lengths of jewel-toned velvets in a comforter's plastic zip-bag sitting on the Bowflex awaiting mail order bias binding in colors I can't get from JoAnn's. Those will be Xmas tree skirts & other holiday dress-things-up-by-swathing-them-in-color objects. I just love the plastic bags that bedding comes in. They make such good project bags! On the Work-On-This-Next-Pile: an Indian embroidered tote bag that needs some interior pockets & dividers to be usable, and a dead purse with a beautiful South American cross-stitch panel I need to salvage. Heaven only knows what else I'm gonna find to work on after I move everything back from where I stashed it so the workmen could get at all the vents & the carpet cleaners can do their thing! Which reminds me - where the devil did the fabric for the black-out curtains for the recroom get to? What's fizzing in my mind are quilt projects. Dear Hubby surprized me with a stop at Quilt National on our daytrip to Athens Ohio last week, and now a bunch of old ideas have come forward from the back of my head and are jostling for attention I don't have time to give them. (argh!) I don't generally much like contemporary textile art, but this show had some extraordinary work. I need to get some sketches done before the stimuli fades. Just what I need - another project! And oh, yeah, the Autocrat for our shire's big mid-winter event wants to have tabards for the servers & lots of hangings for the hall. The new King is from here, & she wants to up our game. Mary ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] costume exhibit book
me! Me! put me on the list, too! Mary Piero Carey ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Holiday loot
Dear Hubby gave me Elephant's Breath & London Smoke by Deb Salisbury. Squeee!!! I swear, I can't glance at a page without finding something fascinating. Then, sadly, we went to Backlist Books' closing sale (BOO HOO) and came home with enough science fiction, fantasy, art & Beatles books to fill my largest laundry basket. (Hurray) Oh, and when we were on vacation in New Mexico, I picked up the Young Brides, Old Treasures: Macedonian Embroidered Dress catalog when we saw the exhibit at the International Folk Art Museum. Mind-boggling embroidery! My "To Read" pile just got delightfully bigger! Mary ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Our knowlege of whips...
Ginni said: The foregoing is courtesy of a misspent youth in which I read copious amounts of Georgette Heyer. Ginni, Ginni, NO time spent reading Georgette Heyer is mispent! Mary Piero Carey ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] lining embroidery
I was thinking of something along that line. The back of the embrodery is so thick & uneven that I'm dubious about using fusibles. Also, the metallic threads give me pause. It is the ends of the metallics that are scratching, an I don't trust them not to melt in an ugly way if I apply enough heat to fuse properly. And if I don't get a proper fuse, I'll just have to hand-stitch anyway! But a patch of something smooth & pre-shrunk attached to the wrong-side of the motifs should be doable. Sharon C. said: Fusible backing with thin linen on the inside. Non scratchy and cool. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] %$#&* irons!
Yes, many times that's just what I do. But I should not have to! What torques my temper is that I had irons all through the 70s & 80s that DID NOT DO THIS, and I abused them far worse than my last several irons. There is NO D@MN BLUIDY excuse for purportedly high-end modern irons to fail in this way when cheap irons made 40 years ago didn't fail this way. Mary, muttering grumbling & grousing On 5/21/2012 10:18 PM, h-costume-requ...@indra.com wrote: Use the iron dry, do not fill, do not put on "steam", use a spray or sprinkle bottle separately. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] What's your dressmaker's dummy wearing today?
Mine is still wearing most of what she had on the last time this question got asked. The pirate shirt awaiting buttonholes is now on top. Most of the current action is from the mending baskets. Several snaggy neckties fixed, an embroidered blouse's unruly facing tacked down, replacement elastic waistbands going in, a pair of pants that needs a new waistband & probably hemming. I found the UFO box that has the summer clothes that need work. I can't stand the scratchiness of the embroidery on a couple of outfits I bought in Florida the last time we went down for a shuttle launch, so, I need to devise a partial lining that won't make them too hot. And the new bedroom window treatments... And a bunch of embroidered Xmas ornaments that need finished. They look like little pillows with hanging loops. The embroidery is one of my favorite things. The stuffing - not so much. Good thing I've got a vacation starting next week! Mary ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] %$#&* irons!
Fran complained about modern irons. Amen, Sistah! Not to mention the handles that have a sharp seam EXACTLY where it will chafe a sore spot onto your thumb if you need to iron for longer than it takes to touch up a permapress blouse you forgot in the dryer overnight. And what is it with the spitting & dripping? They had that solved back in the 70s! I wouldn't mind the inactivity cut-off, if you could disable it for sewing sessions. The last thing in the world I need is an iron that cools off during a seam! Mary, the equally exasperated p.s. I seem to recall a catalog with some old-fashioned irons in it -- maybe Vermont Country Store? I'll have to go look. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] What's your dressmaker?'s dummy wearing today?
A pair of pants & shirt that need minor repairs. BUT, on the floor beside beside it is the fabric I scored at a church sale! (A local church had a member who had a MAJOR stash and when she decided she couldn't sew anymore, donated it to the church. It took them 2 weeks to measure it for the sale.) So, white linen & cotton for chemises; fuschia, teal & black wool & cotton heavy knits (some of it Pendleton!) suitable for suits & pants. Brown linen for a tunic, or maybe mundane pants; enough white drapery sheers yardage to veil the whole frelling Barony, /including/ the belly dancers. Some Stretch & Sew bathing suit & blouse patterns for a quarter a piece. And, best of all, a 4yd, 60 wide light blue piece of heaviest weight Ultrasuede for $20 BUCKS. I will Never wear that color, but it is my best friend's favorite shade and she fondled it but didn't buy. So I did buy it & I put it in her bag, saying, "here's your Xmas present". It just revolted my soul (as a former Joann's employee) to leave that buttery soft piece of gorgeousness behind! So, now I'm at /least/ 8 projects further behind! But d@mn, that woman had Taste! Mary Piero Carey aka Maria of Alderford ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Costume Con travel
Well, if it makes any difference to your decision, you could crash here along the way. I'm definitely not going, and we would be happy to be a waystation for Easterners passing through Ohio. If your route involves Routes 30, 43, 77, 71, or the Ohio or Pennsylvania turnpikes, my house might be convenient. We can provide anything from a bathroom break to overnight parking for large RVs. I've got a guest bedroom, couches, recliners, camping mattresses, goodly amounts of floor space, a huge screen porch & lots of space for pitching tents, should that be your desire. (There are also multiple sewing machines & ironing boards for last minute construction blitzes! ) If anyone is passing through & think you might be ready for a meal break or sleep break in my vicinity, by all means get hold of me! We LOVE company! Mary Piero Carey Canton, Ohio Penny said: We are considering it. Would love to drive there from the East coast but don't know just yet. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] salt shopping
Thanks for all the ideas, folks! One of my local groceries finally got in some canning/pickling salt at a normal price. So, I'm hoping to get this done this weekend. Mary ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] salt shopping
Fran said: If you are asking where to buy uniodized salt, I just get it at the local supermarket. Well, that's what I did the last time, but this year, several of the local stores didn't have any uniodized salt, and the ones that did were charging premium prices for it! Mary ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Salt Source
Yep, dyeing. I've got a batch of stuff I want to overdye black. Mary ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] yearbooks
Oooh, how interesting! Our yearbooks (N.E. Ohio) routinely had lots of pictures of sporting events & dances & the plays & any outing the various clubs went away on. Did your school not do that? Our individual portrait shots were taken at the photo studio contracted in any given year by the school to do it. Though, if (for example) Rossi's won the bid & you didn't like their work, you could go to Troup & Pluto (or wherever) & have them send Rossi's the shot. Where did you go to high school? Cathy Raymond said: Yearbooks might, or might not, do any good. When the girls' yearbook photos were taken at my high school, they merely draped our busts with a piece of velvet; we did not wear our prom gowns or anything like that. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Salt Source
Oooh, good idea, I had forgotten about that Amish-inclined bulk store about 8 miles away! And I might actually have time to get over there this weekend! Thank you! Mary Piero Carey Rebecca said: If you have any Amish or Mennonite communities nearby you are in luck. I get 10 pound sacks of canning (non-iodized) salt from the local Mennonite bulk store. This is also where I get pounds of cloves, alspice and stick cinnamon for the holiday pommanders that I make every Christmas. Much cheaper than all those little bottles from the grocery. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] 70s prom dresses
Oh, yeah, and ask if the library has the old high school yearbooks - sometines there are crowd scenes from the prom, and the queen & her court will almost certainly be pictured. Mary Piero Carey ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] 1975-76 - Prom dresses/formal gowns
Go to the libraray & scroll through the microfilm of the local paper to look at the ads in the spring. Lotsa prom dress pics & they'll be what was locally available. If the library kept their issues of Seventeen, you can get a handle on what the fashion industry was pushing. Mary Piero Carey ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] What's your dressmaker's dummy wearing today?
Well, if its an archaeological dig that you're wanting... hmmm...on top... my green resist dye dashiki whose fraying seam allowances need work new black pants for shortening old black & tans striped pants for waist elastic deep red shirt with loads of braid from a friend's trip to Greece to be disasembled & cut down 2 sizes - without disturbing the braid! a VERY odd black leatherette cropped jacket which Dear Hubby spotted in a second hand shop& INSISTED I must buy if it fit, "that's part of some costume, I know it, and you'll never find anything like it when you need it" despite my policy of "NO NEW PROJECTS! Tanjd@mmit!" and his policy of "No conventions, I want to do other vacations for a while!". So, why do I need a costume piece I have NO glimmer of an inspiration for? To go to the bottom of an at least 15 outfit list, for destinations that we won't be going to for at least 5 years? and finally, Dear Hubby's pirate costume shirt from last Halloween, whose cuff & buttons never got done when my buttonhole feature revolted. (Praise the holy name of the saint who invented safety pins!) Do the dozen knitted scarves in the basket in the laundry room count? They are the almost completed summer stash reduction project. How about the basket full of clothes awaiting their dyebath? I gotta find a grocery store with NONiodized salt for the dyebath. Pounds and Pounds of it.! And I have cleared at least 1 square meter of sewing room floor this last week!!! Back to my mending! Mary Piero Carey ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Reynolds costume sale
Penny said: Some of Errol Flynn's costumes went to a small museum in Ohio. Oooh, ooh, Penny, was it Kent State? Oh I hope so! Mary in Canton, quite close to the KSU Fashion Museum ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] the princesses' headgear
Well, I have to wonder if those hats were not a bit of a protest. Were they annoyed that their mum Fergie was not invited? "hey, sis? you know everyone's supposed to dress really special? And everybody keeps their outfits a, like, total secret?" "yeah, so?" "Lets get REALLY SPECIAL hats!" speculating wildly, Mary Piero Carey ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Stanford Historical Dance Week
government politics or university politics? Mary the curious ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] OT: but still about Knights
Holy Moly, I am stunned & amazed. I have just been invited to an old coworkers KNIGHTING CEREMONY and I' am NOT talking about the SCA. John Ewing, the Director of the Cleveland Cinematheque, has been made a Chevalier of the Order of Arts and Letters of the Republic of France. For his Service to the Arts. Whoo and Hooo does not begin to express my delight. OMG what am I gonna wear? http://www.cia.edu/EventDetail.aspx?id=4450 Lady Maria, doing the happy dance ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Fur trims
Ah, that explains it. While I sometimes shake my head over political attitudes in this area (N. E. Ohio), that level of interference in other folks' business is unlikely to take hold around here. Maria ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] h-costume Digest, Vol 9, Issue 337
On 12/4/2010 9:39 AM, Kate Bunting wrote: Political correctness has made it impossible to buy old fur coats in charity shops... Huh? Kate, where are you? The 2nd hand stores around here still sell fur sometimes& the yard sales& estate sales are rife with them. I must have regretfully passed on buying well over a dozen in the last year, for lack of time and/or projects that required them! (All those baby boomers moving into smaller quarters, or dying, I'm sure.) Mary Piero Carey ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] new book with SCAdian characters
Spotted in the April 1, 2010 issue of Library Journal, a favorable review of J. A. Pitts Black Blade Blues. Tor May 2010 ISBN 978-0-7653-2467-2 Urban fantasy with members of the Society involved. It's not showing up in library catalogs yet. YIS, Lady Maria ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] library sources
Whether that's so varies greatly from library to library, but even if true in your area, the type of thing Ann is talking about would have been purchased long ago. That Time-Life "Decades" series is more than 20 years old. Newspaper microfilm is generally held permanently. Costume history books rarely get discarded even when we ought to. None of which negates the problem of turning those images into electrons, of course. Mary, the Periodicals librarian On 3/29/2010 7:40 AM, Denise B. said As for the public library, I'd be surprised if they*were* there - even in the larger public library in the university town. Public libraries spend very little of their budget on non-fiction these days. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Duct tape dummy instructions
Hey, I found a recent book with good duct tape dressform instructions. While I think that most of the clothing in this book is quite hideous, I applaud the authors "go out & Make what you want" spirit. And the dressform instructions are clear and comprehensive. Subversive Seamster: transform thrift store threads into street couture Melissa Alvarado, Hope Meng & Melissa RannelsTaunton Press Yours, Mary Piero Carey ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] h-costume Digest, Vol 8, Issue 406
Hurrah! Everyone's presents sound delightful! Maria ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Christmas Squeee!
Dear Hubby gave me Patterns of Fashion 4 & Costume in Detail! Unmoderated Glee! Maria from Alderford aka Mary Piero Carey ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Have you seen this magazine cover?
Well, I've checked at work, & we only have Pictorial Review's 1st 8 volumes. It's definitely not in the Easter Number from 1899 through 1906. Have you seen who owns it in Worldcat? There are several places with longer runs than ours. Sorry, Mary Piero Carey ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] bride pic
"gonna see my picture on the cover..gonna send five copies to my mother..." Ooops, wrong magazine.. That looks real flapperish to me. I think we've got it at work, I'll have a look tomorrow. Mary Piero Carey ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] having it all in one place
Oh, are you building? We were not so ambitious. We only moved from a 1911ish American Foursquare into a 1960 Ranch. It is a lovely house, but the proportions are SO different! The closets are a completely different shape & NONE of my boxes fit into them. We had to completely repack everything that was in seasonal storage boxes into different shapes. And the Pantry shelves were DEFinitely not spaced by anyone with a clue about the dimensions of food packages. Marjorie Wilser said: Oh, huzzah for having it all in ONE place! I have yet to achievethat nirvana. . . have to make the place first ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] pretty button
Thanks for the offer, but 11/16ths is too big. I have some florals that size which would work, for the color, but there is not enough room to enlarge that buttonhole by that much. I know that i have a couple of small unique buttons that would coordinate, it is merely a matter of finding the correct box! Maria Sharon C. said: I have a 11/16" pink plastic pearlized button. If that might work, send me your address and I'll mail it. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] What's your dressmaker's dummy wearing today?
Well, top level is 3 of Dear Hubby's shirts that need ironing which I tossed there after I took the laundry off the line last night. Below those is a hot pink blouse, circa 1970, which I am mending for my 95 yr old mother-in-law. I've done the rotted seams & all that remains is to either find a pretty button which coordinates for her missing collar button, or replace the whole lot. The fabric is of one of those peculiarly indestructible polyesters that just go on, and on, and on But this pink is FAR brighter than the energizer bunny! It would have much simpler to just buy a similar blouse, but try explaining that to someone with intermittent dementias. After that, I've promised myself NO new projects until I've finished MY mending basket! We've finally moved everything out of the storage unit into our new house, and all my bits & bobs are in one place at last! No more finding that the item I wanted is not in the house! If I can't fnd something now, it is my own fault. Mary Piero Carey aka Lady Maria ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] 1960 hippie fashion
Lynn said: you were stealthy!?! I should have tried that; maybe my mother and the principal wouldn't have been on a first-name basis. Oh, yes, when you're Fighting The Man, Sneaky is Good. Also saves energy for the important stuff. I had AMAZING freedom of movement because I was _such_ a good, polite, sweet, hardworking, trustworthy girl during my freshman year. Not that I had planned it that way, but the rewards became apparent very quickly, so I milked them for all they were worth. Taking theology classes from Jesuit-trained teaching brothers also honed one's argumentation & justification skills amazingly. Power to the People! Mary ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] 1960 hippie fashion
Michelle said: LynnD, apparently you and other uppity girls of your generation are responsible for the comfort my generation enjoyed in our school days. Thanks. You're welcome. We worked at it. Mary Piero Carey, aging hippie & high school stealth subversive ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] non-conformist behavior
Anahita said: The Head Mistress saw me walking into chapel to give my talk and told me not to. This was either late 66 or early 67. I was the only senior not to give a talk. What on earth did she think you were going to do? More importantly, what WERE you going to do? Mary Piero Carey, aging hippie & high school stealth subversive ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Friends Patterns
Ooh, yes. Friends Patterns has some really interesting stuff. I bought their Women's Traditional Mennonite Dress pattern years ago. I had the _strongest_ visualization of it made up in a particular royal blue velvet, with white lace on the bib. This is odd, because I Almost Never wear blue, and I rarely see what I'm wanting to make clearly in my head that way. Well, I found the lace, but haven't ever tracked down the velvet. And life has since intervened. But someday... Mary ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] late Elizabethan headdress
http://www.elizabethan-portraits.com/Theophila.jpg Now, that portrait of Theophilia is very interesting. It is hard to tell from such a small b&w repro, but doesn't it look as if the forehead cloth is tied _over_ the coif? Look at what little we can see of her hairline. Look at the corner where the headcloth & coif meet. Can anyone else see the fainter line leading diagonally down across her coif? It goes out of sight 'round the back of her head just a little higher than eyebrow level. (If we could see her eyebrows, which seem to be either plucked or bleached.) I wonder if she put on ther headcloth, then the cowl, then wrapped those ribbons or strings from the headcloth around the back of the coif? Who owns this panting? I wanna go look at it! And look at the other side. See that little bit that sticks out? Is that a ruffle? Maria from Alderford ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Pattern for red dress on Dr Who
The bodice center section looks like pintucks to me. Mary ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Pattern for red dress on Dr Who
Hmmm that neckline edge is a bit odd... even discounting the fringe. Is it thickened a bit? And the tops of the sleeves are not as smooth as I would expect for CW or early Vic. They generally were going for a sloping shoulder line until the poufy sleeves showed up. I think I'll look at the Godey's and the Delineators when I get to work.. Mary ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Photos of Georgian/Regency dresses
This website got mentioned on another list I subscribe to, and I thought some of you might like to see it. http://www.annegracie.com/writing/costumepage.htm I had no idea bodices could be arranged that way! Your fascinated, Mary Piero Carey ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] saint/iconography question
Well, they sure look like the 3 kings to me. They've taken off their crowns (see them either in hand or on the ground) and there are little fancy boxes that could hold frankincesne & myrhh. Now, who the lady in orange & blue is? I dunno. Mary Piero Carey ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Costuming articles in current issue of Threads
Hi all! The current issue of Threads April/May 2008,(#136) has 2 interesting articles on theatrical costuming: pg.34-37 Backstage at the Opera: learn how costumes are crafted for the stage Suzanne M. Hanna (on Michigan Opera Theatre) pg.59-62 At The Cirque: discover the secrets behind Cirque Productions Michaela Murphy Enjoy! Mary Piero Carey We don't have issues... we have subscriptions. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Finding information
Some things depend on where you are. In Ohio, for example, anybody can walk into a public university & use the collection, no questions asked. (Your Tax Dollars at Work) Private schools can restrict access, but in practice, they usually don't notice another busy searcher in the stacks. (I really hope the spate of muckers shooting up college campuses doesn't get this kind of casual access shut down.) Checking books out at colleges is a different matter, but guest cards are frequently available. If you don't want to get a guest card, you could browse the shelves, make lists and then ask your local public library to get an interlibrary loan on the things you want. I've heard that other states are more restrictive, but some are even looser than we are. Worldcat is a delightful tool. Go to www.worldcat.org Put the name of your book or author into the search box. Give it your zip code when it asks for it. Hit search. Your results will be given in order of increasing distance from your location. You then plan your road trip, or decide to swamp the local ILL librarians. All libraries are not on Worldcat, as it is a paid service that small libraries don't always have in the budget, but libraries big enough to have really deep costume collections are generally in it, at least in my neck of the woods. Mary Piero Carey ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] understanding paintings of Saints
There is a very interesting book called _The Square Halo and other Mysteries of Western Art: images and the stories that inspired them_ by Sallie Fisher. Mary Piero Carey ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] gold-plated needles
I find that the gold needles pass through the fabric just a tiny bit easier. I'm mostly using tapestry needles on aida cloth. I can see the gold ones better, too. That's probably more a function of the colors of the fabric (almost always white), and the chair & the carpeting, which are pretty dark! I find a dropped needle quicker when it is gold. I have some platinum needles, but haven't noticed that they handle differently than plain ones. Gold & platinum coatings might be useful in really damp or salty-aired locations, where quick rusting is a problem. Mary Piero Carey ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Re: h-costume Digest, Vol 6, Issue 479
Sylrog asked: Yes, I have seen Kinkos staff snooping around. More often, I've seen a customer ask for help with a machine, and the staffer asks just what they want to do. (This is an entirely proper question, as you often can't tell what settings to use if you don't know what the desired result is.) So the customer shows the staffer what they want to copy, and then the staffer decrees that the customer would be violating copyright and shoos the customer out the door. The problem is that Kinkos' interpretation of Fair Use has almost always been wrong, when I've been observing. As for my own experiences, the color copy problem happened back in the days when they didn't have color copiers for public use, you had to have them do it. The problem with my b&w copies for insurance documentation was that the size of the originals required the use of the extra-large platen machine. This, again, was not for general public use. Believe me, knowing Kinkos' ignorance, I would NEVER have asked them to make any copy I could do myself! It may just be that management in my region has a bug up its butt, and this policy isn't nationwide. Mary Piero Carey ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Kinko's Ignorance
Lord, yes Kinko's staff has ABSOLUTELY NO understanding of fair use. As a matter of fact, most of the time, they have it exactly backwards. I have been Repeatedly told by Kinko staff that if I was making multiple copies for classroom use, it would be all right, but since I only wanted one copy for personal use, they could not allow me to make the copy. Once, a costumer friend wanted to make an outfit from a cover of Analog. We didn't want to haul the issue around. (Which I own.) Kinko's brain dead staff insisted that the copyright notice for the SFBC ad back cover art meant that Stan Schmidt's permission to make 1 color enlargement for the purpose of verifying the fabric & trim colors was invalid. They have refused to let me make b&w reductions of original artwork for me to file with my home insurance policy. I wanted to get the sales receipt & the image onto the same sheet. Can you imagine a more innocuous purpose? Don't believe ANYTHING a Kinko staffer tells you about copyright law! Mary Piero Carey ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Increasing bra sizes
That's interesting...I had been Thinking, this last year or so, that it seemed to me that teen girls seemed to be bustier than I remembered from the 70s. I had been shrugging it off to the general chubbiness of the population, but this summer & fall I was really trying to notice, and it really did seem that more of the slender girls were bigger than I would expect. Then last weekend I went to my first high school football game in 20 years. I didn't need to pay attention to the game, since the nephew was on the sidelines recuperating from an injury. Folks, I _know_ this crowd. These are the grandkids & the kids of the families I went to school with. (And wasn't that its own mind-blowing little trip, but I digress.) Familiar names, faces, and bodies... but with bigger breasts. Something, or somethings, is different. There was definitely more boobage than there used to be. I don't mean skin on display, I mean cubic inches. There was definitely a shortage of candidates for the teeny tiny titty committee. Very odd indeed. I don't know how much is hormones in the diet, how much is medical enhancement, & how much is wonderbras, but the landscape was hillier than I used to see. And lots of those girls were NOT wearing any bra, let alone anything that could give that much boost. Your intrigued, Mary Piero Carey ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] 1955 wedding gown price
I just got off the phone with Mom, who got married in Nov 1955. Her gown cost about $200. Floor length with short train, 3 tiers of lace, lace bodice & sleeves. One of the Chantilly floral patterns, but I don't think it was true Chantilly from France. Utterly gorgeous, and it took me _days_ to iron it to display at their 50th anniversary party. Anyhow, going by that, $200 got you a real wow of a wedding dress in the midwest in the mid 50s. Mary Piero Carey ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Prices in 1957
Try looking at the department store ads in the microfilm of your local newspaper for '57. I'd start in April or May. If you're lucky, there will have been a bridal shop advertising, as well. Or your library might have hung on to Vogue, or Harper's Bazaar. I can't recall whether Seventeen was pubbing in '57. I'm home sick, or I'd check. There were lots of fashion ads in the New York Times, if your library has that. It is a rare library that did this, but ask if they have a catalog collection. No, not the library catalog, Sears, or Montgomery Ward, etc. Ah, I found a source. Yes, Seventeen existed in 1957. Mary Piero Carey ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Plucked, Shaved & Braided
Susan asked if this has actually been printed. I can't tell. Given that Worldcat can show books ordered but not yet processed into a library's collection, a book ordered before the presses roll could show up in a catalog After publication has been cancelled. Very annoying, but possible. Removing unreceived books from the data stream has a Much lower priority than taking care of the new stuff, especially when you're still hoping that the item will get scheduled & finally arrive. Most Tech Services depts. that I'm familiar with run such procedures once or twice a year, rather than monthly. So, the lag can be quite long. That's why I recommended calling the library involved. From the messages in the digests since I wrote that, it doesn't look good! Drat it, I was going to recommend purchase to my Scadian buddy in selection.She was saying to me just last night that we had very little on the history of hairdressing! Mary Piero Carey ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Plucked, Shaved & Braided
www.worldcat.org says that the British Library in Wetherby, W Yorkshire has it. However, their library catalog denies it. This sometimes happens when an item has been ordered, but not yet unpacked. I'd give them a call. The other locations so far are Long Beach, CA; Houston TX; Dunedin, NZ This title must be fairly new, for so few locations to show on worldcat. Kent State doesn't even have it yet! Mary Piero Carey ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume