Re: [Hornlist] New Horn

2009-04-17 Thread Tina Barkan
I got my Hoyer from Scott in December. I love it. I was just at  
Scott's Monday and he has several Hoyers in stock as well as some  
other great horns. He is fantastic to work with.


Tina

On Apr 17, 2009, at 3:08 PM, Jeremy Cucco wrote:


Joel -

I've been raving on the list here quite a bit about my recent  
purchase.  After trying virtually every major brand and type  
available in the US, I purchased a Dieter Otto 180K (Yellow Brass,  
Unlacquered).  It's a wonderful horn - very free blowing with just  
the right resistance when you push it louder.  (Some "free blowing  
horns" just won't get loud and as you start to get tired, they offer  
no real assistance in that matter).


As I've mentioned a few times though, it does have a German taper  
mouthpipe stock from the factory.  If you don't use a German shanked  
mouthpiece, you'll either need to get yours modified, get a new  
mouthpiece with the proper shank or get a new leadpipe.  As absurd  
as that last option sounds, it's actually not a bad plan.  Not that  
Otto's leadpipes aren't good - they're fine - great even.  However,  
given the price of the horn (I got mine "fully loaded" with an extra  
hand-hammered bell and it set me back around $7600), adding a  
leadpipe that's designed to suit you isn't such a bad idea -  
especially if you have a hard time finding a mouthpiece with a  
german shank that works well for you.


I got mine from Scott Bacon at Siegfried's Call in New York.  I  
believe that's the only place you can get them in the states (I'm  
not sure where you live).  He had several other great but less  
common horns there as well.  The Cornford C28 and the Durk D3 stick  
out as being great instruments as well.


For what it's worth, I blend just fine with 8Ds, Paxmans, Lewis's  
and many other types.  The sound I get on this horn is exactly what  
I would have hoped for after years of searching.  Full, deep and  
supported in all registers with a slight zing when I push it.


Best wishes -
Jeremy



Joel Gilbert wrote:
I currently play a Paxman 23L, but am looking for a new horn.  I  
have found
the resistance to be a bit much, especially in the high register.   
Does
anyone have some suggestions for horns to look at that are more  
free blowing
(between Engelbert Schmid and a medium resistance horn) and are  
kind of

standard horns which are easy to blend with an orchestra?
Thanks,

Joel
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RE: [Hornlist] New Horn

2009-04-17 Thread Trey Johnson

Joel,

 

If you do find that your mechanics are fine, you might be just as well-served 
to add a different leadpipe to your horn. A lot can change in that small 
section of tubing. There are many fine shops that do custom leadpipe work, and 
it can almost make it feel like you're getting a new horn at a fraction of the 
cost.

 

My two cents,

 

Trey
 
> From: em...@magma.ca
> To: horn@music.memphis.edu
> Subject: Re: [Hornlist] New Horn
> Date: Fri, 17 Apr 2009 15:28:49 -0400
> 
> Hi Joel,
> 
> There are so many different manufacturers out there, it's very 
> difficult, if not impossible, to recommend one particular horn over 
> another without actually trying them. Having said this, Paxman does 
> make a fine instrument.
> 
> If you are not doing so already, it may be worth your while to take a 
> few lessons with a competent professional to see if all your 
> "mechanics" are working correctly; it may not be the horn at all.
> 
> Also, I suggest that if possible, before laying out many hundreds (if 
> not thousands) of $$$, try a few models of other horns of different 
> manufacturers, then decide. You might surprise yourself.
> 
> 
> Good luck with your search!
> 
> Sincerely,
> martin bender
> 
> 
> 
> On 17-Apr-09, at 2:57 PM, Joel Gilbert wrote:
> 
> > I currently play a Paxman 23L, but am looking for a new horn. I 
> > have found
> > the resistance to be a bit much, especially in the high register. 
> > Does
> > anyone have some suggestions for horns to look at that are more free 
> > blowing
> > (between Engelbert Schmid and a medium resistance horn) and are kind 
> > of
> > standard horns which are easy to blend with an orchestra?
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Joel
> > ___
> > post: horn@music.memphis.edu
> > unsubscribe or set options at 
> > http://music2.memphis.edu/mailman/options/horn/embee%40magma.ca
> >
> 
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Re: [Hornlist] New Horn

2009-04-17 Thread Martin Bender

Hi Joel,

There are so many different manufacturers out there, it's very  
difficult, if not impossible, to recommend one particular horn over  
another without actually trying them. Having said this, Paxman does  
make a fine instrument.


If you are not doing so already, it may be worth your while to take a  
few lessons with a competent professional to see if all your  
"mechanics" are working correctly; it may not be the horn at all.


Also, I suggest that if possible, before laying out many hundreds (if  
not thousands) of $$$, try a few models of other horns of different  
manufacturers, then decide. You might surprise yourself.



Good luck with your search!

Sincerely,
martin bender



On 17-Apr-09, at 2:57 PM, Joel Gilbert wrote:

I currently play a Paxman 23L, but am looking for a new horn.  I  
have found
the resistance to be a bit much, especially in the high register.   
Does
anyone have some suggestions for horns to look at that are more free  
blowing
(between Engelbert Schmid and a medium resistance horn) and are kind  
of

standard horns which are easy to blend with an orchestra?
Thanks,

Joel
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Re: [Hornlist] New Horn

2009-04-17 Thread Jeremy Cucco

Joel -

I've been raving on the list here quite a bit about my recent purchase.  
After trying virtually every major brand and type available in the US, I 
purchased a Dieter Otto 180K (Yellow Brass, Unlacquered).  It's a 
wonderful horn - very free blowing with just the right resistance when 
you push it louder.  (Some "free blowing horns" just won't get loud and 
as you start to get tired, they offer no real assistance in that matter).


As I've mentioned a few times though, it does have a German taper 
mouthpipe stock from the factory.  If you don't use a German shanked 
mouthpiece, you'll either need to get yours modified, get a new 
mouthpiece with the proper shank or get a new leadpipe.  As absurd as 
that last option sounds, it's actually not a bad plan.  Not that Otto's 
leadpipes aren't good - they're fine - great even.  However, given the 
price of the horn (I got mine "fully loaded" with an extra hand-hammered 
bell and it set me back around $7600), adding a leadpipe that's designed 
to suit you isn't such a bad idea - especially if you have a hard time 
finding a mouthpiece with a german shank that works well for you.


I got mine from Scott Bacon at Siegfried's Call in New York.  I believe 
that's the only place you can get them in the states (I'm not sure where 
you live).  He had several other great but less common horns there as 
well.  The Cornford C28 and the Durk D3 stick out as being great 
instruments as well.


For what it's worth, I blend just fine with 8Ds, Paxmans, Lewis's and 
many other types.  The sound I get on this horn is exactly what I would 
have hoped for after years of searching.  Full, deep and supported in 
all registers with a slight zing when I push it.


Best wishes -
Jeremy



Joel Gilbert wrote:

I currently play a Paxman 23L, but am looking for a new horn.  I have found
the resistance to be a bit much, especially in the high register.  Does
anyone have some suggestions for horns to look at that are more free blowing
(between Engelbert Schmid and a medium resistance horn) and are kind of
standard horns which are easy to blend with an orchestra?
Thanks,

Joel
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RE: [Hornlist] New Horn Design/Concept

2007-08-23 Thread Joe Scarpelli
Yeah, kind of like that $400 driver. Helps Tiger but I still slice.

Regards,
Joe 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf
Of hans
Sent: Wednesday, August 22, 2007 3:30 PM
To: 'The Horn List'
Subject: RE: [Hornlist] New Horn Design/Concept

Sorry, this has been done before. Ask Engelbert Schmid. His
valves are designed that way. Does it help the weak player ?
No ! Definitely no ! Does it help the top players ? Perhaps,
do get still an improvement. But those struggling with the
single notes may never feel the improvement, but they will
buy it as some kind of "placebo".

Nevertheless, it is great that some players & designers do
research to improve our instrument.


= 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of James Wester
Sent: Wednesday, August 22, 2007 7:25 PM
To: The Horn List
Subject: [Hornlist] New Horn Design/Concept




I have been playing around with a horn design based on a
valve that I

thought up. The primary goal of this design is to have an
constant

bore size through out the entire horn. Never having a crimp
or pinch

anywhere throughout the horn. Current horn designs rotary
valve

clusters are a massive row of crimped passages. So I set out
to

design a valve that would maintain a bore size when straight
through

and when diverting its air through the valve slide. I used
3D

modeling software to mock up the horn. I haven't modeled it
exactly

correct, due to my limitations with the software. So the
tubing

lengths for the F and Bb side are guesstimates. And I
haven't

included a thumb lever. But the main gist of the design is
there. I

would be interested to hear your comments. I realize that
this design

could result in a heavy horn. I am planning on experimenting
with

alloys to decrease the weight of the valves. I also haven't
modeled

the valves exactly as they would be ( again due to lack of
modeling

ability ), I have a few different ideas of how to construct
the

valves. Pics of the design are in the Photo section of the
Yahoo group.



http://f9g.yahoofs.com/groups/g_153230/fce0/__sr_/f044.jpg?g
rA.hzGBhuEjY13g

http://f9g.yahoofs.com/groups/g_153230/fce0/__sr_/6ee7.jpg?g
rA.hzGBSTSJkH5q

http://f9g.yahoofs.com/groups/g_153230/fce0/__sr_/6751.jpg?g
rA.hzGBa_rZiQCa



Thanks,



James




   


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RE: [Hornlist] New Horn Design/Concept

2007-08-22 Thread hans
Sorry, this has been done before. Ask Engelbert Schmid. His
valves are designed that way. Does it help the weak player ?
No ! Definitely no ! Does it help the top players ? Perhaps,
do get still an improvement. But those struggling with the
single notes may never feel the improvement, but they will
buy it as some kind of "placebo".

Nevertheless, it is great that some players & designers do
research to improve our instrument.


= 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of James Wester
Sent: Wednesday, August 22, 2007 7:25 PM
To: The Horn List
Subject: [Hornlist] New Horn Design/Concept




I have been playing around with a horn design based on a
valve that I

thought up. The primary goal of this design is to have an
constant

bore size through out the entire horn. Never having a crimp
or pinch

anywhere throughout the horn. Current horn designs rotary
valve

clusters are a massive row of crimped passages. So I set out
to

design a valve that would maintain a bore size when straight
through

and when diverting its air through the valve slide. I used
3D

modeling software to mock up the horn. I haven't modeled it
exactly

correct, due to my limitations with the software. So the
tubing

lengths for the F and Bb side are guesstimates. And I
haven't

included a thumb lever. But the main gist of the design is
there. I

would be interested to hear your comments. I realize that
this design

could result in a heavy horn. I am planning on experimenting
with

alloys to decrease the weight of the valves. I also haven't
modeled

the valves exactly as they would be ( again due to lack of
modeling

ability ), I have a few different ideas of how to construct
the

valves. Pics of the design are in the Photo section of the
Yahoo group.



http://f9g.yahoofs.com/groups/g_153230/fce0/__sr_/f044.jpg?g
rA.hzGBhuEjY13g

http://f9g.yahoofs.com/groups/g_153230/fce0/__sr_/6ee7.jpg?g
rA.hzGBSTSJkH5q

http://f9g.yahoofs.com/groups/g_153230/fce0/__sr_/6751.jpg?g
rA.hzGBa_rZiQCa



Thanks,



James




   


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Re: [Hornlist] New Horn Questions

2007-02-04 Thread Richard
Many years ago, I got a new horn by Walter Mönnig, large bell, extremely 
free and open. I was used to a rather stuffy medium bore horn. It took 
me more than a year to get used to the new horn, partly because I was  
involved with a teacher who was not helpful. With many years of 
experience (and constantly testing horns I am working on), I can now 
adapt to pretty much any horn in a matter of a few days, BUT not to the 
point of being able to play my best.


I find that if horns have a significant difference in feel, I get best 
results by using different mouthpiece cups. Often, the choice is not 
obvious. But I have 30+ years accumulation of samples to try. If you are 
going to a much lighter and faster horn, try a mouthpiece with a smaller 
throat to add resistance and perhaps shallower with a bit more bowl 
shape to add fullness to the sound.


As to your audition tape and the auditions themselves, you have a 
problem. In you place, I would probably play the new horn only at the 
beginning of practice sessions, ALWAYS finishing up the old horn, and 
preferably doing the bulk of the  work on it. Close to the taping and/or 
auditions, I would avoid playing anything but the horn you will use. 
Habits are extremely important in a stress situation, and you need 
consistency more than you need the new horn.


Richard Hirsh
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Re: [Hornlist] New Horn Questions

2007-02-03 Thread BrassArtsUnlim
In a message dated 2/2/2007 4:48:09 PM Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
writes:
What options are there out there for instrument insurance?  I don't
think it would be covered under homeowners, as I live in a dormatory.
Should I get a seperate plan just for the Horn?
Will plans cover accidental damage (like someone knocking it off a
chair) or just theft?  What about if the building burns down and the
horn is lost? Or damaged on an airline ? 
--
Dave, I would not discount the homeowner's policy option out of hand.  You 
might be able to be covered under your parents' policy, which could be a whole 
lot cheaper than getting a new policy.  Check it out.  Most homeowner's 
policies do not cover incidental damage - just theft and total loss under 
certain 
circumstances.

Dave Weiner
Brass Arts Unlimited
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RE: [Hornlist] New Horn Questions

2007-02-03 Thread hans
Hello, yes the Schmid speaks very easily, too easily, nearly
without any resistance. But how about playing piano or
pianissimo, when you need a certain resistance. But they are
beautiful horns - to look at - but also when played by the
right player.##

If you are afraid, the horn might be damaged (this even
happen with the best care - I got just a little ding of 5
mms, because a coin fell from the stage, but hit the
instrument on a place where the ding cannot be seen - I use
this instrument since ten years for most of my services in
the opera, but it looks like new. Well, I never leave it in
the pits as do my colleagues. I put it in my shrank during
the breakes & when I walk, I hold it infront of me, bell
pointing to my left shoulder, wrapping the horn with my left
arm as to protect it.)

Get the horn stolen ? It is up to you, never leaving the
horn unattended at no time. Lock it in, when you have other
things to do. If you drive, put it in the trunk except you
drive home directly with no stop at nowhere. If intruder get
it from your home, your home insurance (hope you have one)
will cover it. Best, ask your agent, if you have to declare
it before.

Airtravel damage ??? Insist to get it on board as
handluggage (important & most fragile musical instrument you
need for next days performance etc. blah-blah). 

Fire in the school ? Leave all there except the horn, no
matter what the orders are.

Savings ? Put 50.- $ aside every month, to cover necessary
repairs of accidents (hopefully never happen). This is
cheaper than insurance. Precaution is also cheaper than
repair. A bit of discipline helps.


===

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Friday, February 02, 2007 10:38 PM
To: horn@music.memphis.edu
Subject: [Hornlist] New Horn Questions

Hello All-

I write with extreme excitement as my brand new, yellow
brass double Engelbert Schmid arrived this morning. (I
bought a medium yellow brass and a "large"(still
significantly smaller than the 8D) rose-brass bell
flare, both hand-hammered with garland.   What a beauty!
Such an
improvement over my old and junky Texas 8D.
I have a few questions though. 

First, I play on a Lawson S670 XT (the XT is because I had
him drill the cup a little deeper, making a little more cup
volume -greatly improved the tone on my old 8D at least; by
improve I mean darker and less splatty) My concern is that
the mouthpiece shank sinks in very far (about an inch) into
the mouthpiece receiver on the leadpipe.  I have read from
various sources that European horn makers use a different
taper on the mouthpiece receiver than so American horn  and
mouthpiece makers.  Is this a problem?  It does fit snug
with no wiggle room. 

Also, while still on MP's, have a lot of people out there
who switched horns at some point found that they also needed
to switch MP's to match the new horn too?  I really like
what the Lawson MP did for me on the Conn, but I assume
since these are such radically different horns that
that might not be true on the Schmid.   

Another question.  How long will it take me to get used to
this new instrument?  I ask because I am right in the middle
of recording an extensive audition tape and even have
recording dates set up starting tomorrow. (I could cancel
them and postpone quite easily though) Should I record the
tape on the old horn or reschedule and play on the Schmid?
 If so how long to wait, I have until the end of Feb.?
There are a lot of things the new horn does infinitely
better which I could tell immediately. But a lot of things
are totally different, the biggest that I chip (overshoot) a
lot of notes while slurring as the partials feel a lot
closer. 

Well anyway, if anyone could offer some advice in these
regards I'd greatly appreciate it.  My god, the Schmid is
just exquisite though. 
It feels like blowing a feather around where as the 8D is
like playing soccer with a bowling ball. 

Thanks in advance, 

Dave Meichle
A much broker student at Lawrence University now 

ps. If you have any questions about this horn I'd be happy
to offer my experiences, especially as I get a change to
play it a little more. 




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Re: [Hornlist] New Horn Questions

2007-02-02 Thread Carlisle Landel

Dave,

Start calling insurance agents and see what you can get.  Your  
mileage will vary by company.


I've had various homeowners insurance policies through the years, and  
some have covered my horn, while others required a separate addendum  
to the policy.  You'll just have to shop around.


You should also check and see if you can still be covered by your  
parents' homeowner or renter policy.


It's a bit daunting when you realize that your instrument is one of  
the most valuable items that you own!


Good luck,

Carlisle
-now returning to lurker mode

On Feb 2, 2007, at 9:46 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


Oh, another quick question.

I would very much like to get this instrument insured.  College  
Campus'

are notorious for theft.  My mother's hand-made Lauben Oboe was stolen
when she was a student and she had to quit playing. (so there is
motivation in my family here)

What options are there out there for instrument insurance?  I don't
think it would be covered under homeowners, as I live in a dormatory.
Should I get a seperate plan just for the Horn?
Will plans cover accidental damage (like someone knocking it off a
chair) or just theft?  What about if the building burns down and the
horn is lost? Or damaged on an airline ?

What so these policies cost?

Thanks again, I am sure this is something many of you will know about,

Dave Meichle
Lawrence University


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RE: [Hornlist] New Horn Questions

2007-02-02 Thread Steve Freides
Check with both the college and the home owner's or apartment policy from
your permanent domicile.  One, the other, or both may cover this, or one,
the other, or both may let you add specific coverage (a "rider") to whatever
coverage you currently have.

Either way, be sure to take pictures of the horn and keep those plus the
receipt in a safe deposit box somewhere.

-S-

> -Original Message-
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
> Sent: Friday, February 02, 2007 4:47 PM
> To: horn@music.memphis.edu
> Subject: Re: [Hornlist] New Horn Questions
> 
> Oh, another quick question.
> 
> I would very much like to get this instrument insured.  
> College Campus'
> are notorious for theft.  My mother's hand-made Lauben Oboe 
> was stolen when she was a student and she had to quit 
> playing. (so there is motivation in my family here) 
> 
> What options are there out there for instrument insurance?  I 
> don't think it would be covered under homeowners, as I live 
> in a dormatory.
> Should I get a seperate plan just for the Horn?
> Will plans cover accidental damage (like someone knocking it off a
> chair) or just theft?  What about if the building burns down 
> and the horn is lost? Or damaged on an airline ? 
> 
> What so these policies cost?
> 
> Thanks again, I am sure this is something many of you will 
> know about, 
> 
> Dave Meichle
> Lawrence University
> 
> 
> __
> __
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> 
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Re: [Hornlist] New Horn Questions

2007-02-02 Thread [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Oh, another quick question.

I would very much like to get this instrument insured.  College Campus'
are notorious for theft.  My mother's hand-made Lauben Oboe was stolen
when she was a student and she had to quit playing. (so there is
motivation in my family here) 

What options are there out there for instrument insurance?  I don't
think it would be covered under homeowners, as I live in a dormatory.
Should I get a seperate plan just for the Horn?
Will plans cover accidental damage (like someone knocking it off a
chair) or just theft?  What about if the building burns down and the
horn is lost? Or damaged on an airline ? 

What so these policies cost?

Thanks again, I am sure this is something many of you will know about, 

Dave Meichle
Lawrence University



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Click here to checkout USA TODAY Headlines.
http://track.juno.com/s/lc?s=198954&u=http://www.usatoday.com/news/front.htm?csp=24


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Re: [Hornlist] New Horn Recommendations

2006-10-12 Thread billbamberg
If you have an 8D you like, you're certainly set for the band gig. What 
you need to do is find a horn more suited for pit work. As long as you 
have the 8D to cover symphonic works, you should look for light, agile 
horn, that can produce a full range of tonalities without becoming too 
loud to balance the pit. A single Bb, with an F attachment, is often 
used. A high quality compensating horn, like a Wendler Kruspe, will do 
quite well. There are many medium bell Geyer type horns around. 
Whatever you decide, don't hesitate to change the leadpipe to make the 
horn distinctly optimized to do what the 8D doesn't do well.


-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: horn@music.memphis.edu
Sent: Thu, 12 Oct 2006 8:57 AM
Subject: [Hornlist] New Horn Recommendations

Fellow listers,

 I am in the market for a new horn after playing a great 8D I bought 
from Alex Ozolins several years ago. I know that each horn is a little 
different, but what recommendations can you all make. I play in a 55 
piece community band, and in pit orchestras for community theater or 
chorale groups. I've thought about some possibilities: Hans Hoyer 6802, 
Holton 188, or 189. Any other ideas?


Jim McDermott
Lake of the Ozarks, Missouri
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Re: [Hornlist] New Horn!!

2005-06-14 Thread Hans
Dont drop it ! Good luck !
 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Tom Spillman
Sent: Tuesday, June 14, 2005 11:29 AM
To: Yahoo horn list; Hornlist
Subject: [Hornlist] New Horn!!

I have ordered a new horn (a Yamaha 667).  It should be
delivered later this week.

What do I need to do to get it set up?  All of the horns
I've been involved with, including the one I have now, were
already playable by the time I got my hands on them.  I
assume I'll have to tune it, oil the valves, and check the
slides for grease, and check it's playability in the various
registers.  Is there anything else I should do?

There was a special where I ordered the horn of including
the Yamaha Silent Practice system at the same price.  I
found it appealing since from time to time I go places where
I feel a little inhibited about practicing.  That doesn't
stop me, but I like the idea about not disturbing others
while still getting my practice in.  Does anyone have
experience with this system?

Any information will be appreciated...

Thanks...

Tom

-- 

Thomas M. Spillman, Jr.

Asst. Professor (retired)
Information Technology
MBA Program
School of Management
St. Edward's University
Austin, TX

(home) 512-267-4393


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Re: [Hornlist] New Horn!!

2005-06-14 Thread christine williamson
Hi Tom,
Congratulations! I played on a Yammy 667 for many years and loved it. 

Just be certain to oil the valves thoroughly before you actually play it for 
the first time and then oil it frequently as Yamaha valves are usually very 
very snug. Once when I went away on holidays for 3 weeks it took a lot of 
patient coaxing and lots of oil when I got back to get any of the valves to 
move at all. That was a lesson well learned, I can tell you!

Happy playing :)
Chris
 



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Re: [Hornlist] New Horn!!

2005-06-14 Thread Nicholas Hartman Hartman
I have not personally had experience with Silent
Brass, but my teacher, Roy Schaberg, has. Apparently,
he seriously hurt himself once using it. I have no
idea about the details, but the impression I received
was that it creates an excessive amount of back
pressure. It sounds like every horn player's best
friend, but be careful. 

   Nick

--- Tom Spillman <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> I have ordered a new horn (a Yamaha 667).  It should
> be delivered later 
> this week.
> 
> What do I need to do to get it set up?  All of the
> horns I've been 
> involved with, including the one I have now, were
> already playable by 
> the time I got my hands on them.  I assume I'll have
> to tune it, oil the 
> valves, and check the slides for grease, and check
> it's playability in 
> the various registers.  Is there anything else I
> should do?
> 
> There was a special where I ordered the horn of
> including the Yamaha 
> Silent Practice system at the same price.  I found
> it appealing since 
> from time to time I go places where I feel a little
> inhibited about 
> practicing.  That doesn't stop me, but I like the
> idea about not 
> disturbing others while still getting my practice
> in.  Does anyone have 
> experience with this system?
> 
> Any information will be appreciated...
> 
> Thanks...
> 
> Tom
> 
> -- 
> 
> Thomas M. Spillman, Jr.
> 
> Asst. Professor (retired)
> Information Technology
> MBA Program
> School of Management
> St. Edward's University
> Austin, TX
> 
> (home) 512-267-4393
> 
> 
> ___
> post: horn@music.memphis.edu
> unsubscribe or set options at
>
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> 

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Re: [Hornlist] New Horn Maintenance

2004-03-06 Thread blackjack_ cajun
Anybody know anything about the Conn 8D having this...erm... Factory dust of 
some sort?

Jon


From: Chris Tedesco <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Reply-To: The Horn List <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: The Horn List <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [Hornlist] New Horn Maintenance
Date: Sat, 6 Mar 2004 18:50:30 -0800 (PST)
Often I'll give my leadpipe a good squirt of valve juice and blow and 
wiggle to
simply oil my valves!   Works pretty well too.

Chris
--- Graeme Evans <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> I don't think there would be much factory dirt in a Yamaha horn, but I 
would
> strongly advise pouring a teaspoon or so of valve oil (eg. Al Cass) down 
the
> mouthpipe, and blowing it vigourously through the horn while wriggling 
the
> valve levers. This will spread it in a mist over the inside of the horn 
and
> help to prevent corrosion. Follow this up with light machine oil on the 
top
> and bottom bearings.
>
> This is something I do frequently to my horns, and I have managed to 
greatly
> limit green copper carbonate deposit build up.
>
> One horn I have had from new has no corrosion whatsoever.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Graeme Evans
> (Principal Horn, Melbourne Symphony Orchestra)
> +61 3 9318 0690(H), +61 419 880371(B), +61 3 93180893(Fax)
> E-mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
> - Original Message -
> From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Sent: Saturday, March 06, 2004 1:54 PM
> Subject: [Hornlist] New Horn Maintenance
>
>
> >Hello everyone,
> >I just recieved my new Yamaha YHR668NDII, and was wondering if 
I
> have
> > to take it into the shop to get the so called "factory dust" cleaned 
out.
> >Is it true that this dirt or whatever it is, is in the new horn
> from
> > constructing it?
> >Can I just attach a little bath hose to the mouthpiece reciever 
of
> the
> > horn and flush it out with water? Would that suffice in clearing it 
out?
> >
> >Thanks,
> >Mike
> > ___
> > post: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > set your options at
> http://music.memphis.edu/mailman/options/horn/graev%40comcen.com.au
> >
> >
>
>
> ___
> post: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> set your options at
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Re: [Hornlist] New Horn Maintenance

2004-03-06 Thread Chris Tedesco
Often I'll give my leadpipe a good squirt of valve juice and blow and wiggle to
simply oil my valves!   Works pretty well too.  

Chris
--- Graeme Evans <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> I don't think there would be much factory dirt in a Yamaha horn, but I would
> strongly advise pouring a teaspoon or so of valve oil (eg. Al Cass) down the
> mouthpipe, and blowing it vigourously through the horn while wriggling the
> valve levers. This will spread it in a mist over the inside of the horn and
> help to prevent corrosion. Follow this up with light machine oil on the top
> and bottom bearings.
> 
> This is something I do frequently to my horns, and I have managed to greatly
> limit green copper carbonate deposit build up.
> 
> One horn I have had from new has no corrosion whatsoever.
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> Graeme Evans
> (Principal Horn, Melbourne Symphony Orchestra)
> +61 3 9318 0690(H), +61 419 880371(B), +61 3 93180893(Fax)
> E-mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> 
> - Original Message - 
> From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Sent: Saturday, March 06, 2004 1:54 PM
> Subject: [Hornlist] New Horn Maintenance
> 
> 
> >Hello everyone,
> >I just recieved my new Yamaha YHR668NDII, and was wondering if I
> have
> > to take it into the shop to get the so called "factory dust" cleaned out.
> >Is it true that this dirt or whatever it is, is in the new horn
> from
> > constructing it?
> >Can I just attach a little bath hose to the mouthpiece reciever of
> the
> > horn and flush it out with water? Would that suffice in clearing it out?
> >
> >Thanks,
> >Mike
> > ___
> > post: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > set your options at
> http://music.memphis.edu/mailman/options/horn/graev%40comcen.com.au
> >
> >
> 
> 
> ___
> post: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> set your options at
http://music.memphis.edu/mailman/options/horn/tedesccj%40yahoo.com


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RE: [Hornlist] New Horn Maintenance

2004-03-05 Thread Hans
Graeme, your advice is absolutely to be supported. 

As far as myself, I have not done it to any of my horns & cannot find
any corrosion on any of my horns, but this is absolutely individual &
has much to do with the content of acid in your breath or in the moist
produced. 

Also the ph value in your sweat is source of corrosion. I recently got
an old horn used by a colleague who produced a lot of "cold" sweat. The
nickel silver hand shield & the shield on the lead pipe are merely eaten
away.

Watering the horn most carefully after playing is essential for the life
span of the horn. Avoiding acidic (gas !!!) refreshment drinks just
before playing might help also to avoid corrosion.

The main source for corrosion (besides wrong maintenance) might be the
use of cheap metal & careless handling during the manufacturing process.
But this should not happen with instruments above cheapest band level.

Anyway, your advice is excellent & I will recommend it also.

===

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf
Of Graeme Evans
Sent: Saturday, March 06, 2004 4:06 AM
To: The Horn List
Subject: Re: [Hornlist] New Horn Maintenance

I don't think there would be much factory dirt in a Yamaha horn, but I
would
strongly advise pouring a teaspoon or so of valve oil (eg. Al Cass) down
the
mouthpipe, and blowing it vigourously through the horn while wriggling
the
valve levers. This will spread it in a mist over the inside of the horn
and
help to prevent corrosion. Follow this up with light machine oil on the
top
and bottom bearings.

This is something I do frequently to my horns, and I have managed to
greatly
limit green copper carbonate deposit build up.

One horn I have had from new has no corrosion whatsoever.

Cheers,

Graeme Evans
(Principal Horn, Melbourne Symphony Orchestra)
+61 3 9318 0690(H), +61 419 880371(B), +61 3 93180893(Fax)
E-mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]

- Original Message - 
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Saturday, March 06, 2004 1:54 PM
Subject: [Hornlist] New Horn Maintenance


>Hello everyone,
>I just recieved my new Yamaha YHR668NDII, and was wondering if
I
have
> to take it into the shop to get the so called "factory dust" cleaned
out.
>Is it true that this dirt or whatever it is, is in the new horn
from
> constructing it?
>Can I just attach a little bath hose to the mouthpiece reciever
of
the
> horn and flush it out with water? Would that suffice in clearing it
out?
>
>Thanks,
>Mike
> ___
> post: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> set your options at
http://music.memphis.edu/mailman/options/horn/graev%40comcen.com.au
>
>


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RE: [Hornlist] New Horn Maintenance

2004-03-05 Thread Hans
Who told you the nonsense about "factory dust" ?? As far as I know,
all instruments are chemically cleaned, special if they are lacquered.

But rinsing the instrument (NOT brushing) from backwards (filling water
into the bell & turn the horn around until the water comes off the front
hole) will not harm but have also the benefit of moisture the horn as it
comes from the factory completely dry. Do not forget to add a very mild
detergent (liquid dish cleaner) to the water; may-be after inserting the
first three four cups of water.

Clean the water off the horn carefully to avoid water drop marks.

Have fun with your new horn.
=

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf
Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Saturday, March 06, 2004 3:54 AM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [Hornlist] New Horn Maintenance

   Hello everyone,
   I just recieved my new Yamaha YHR668NDII, and was wondering if I
have 
to take it into the shop to get the so called "factory dust" cleaned
out. 
   Is it true that this dirt or whatever it is, is in the new horn
from 
constructing it?
   Can I just attach a little bath hose to the mouthpiece reciever
of the 
horn and flush it out with water? Would that suffice in clearing it out?

   Thanks,
   Mike
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Re: [Hornlist] New Horn Maintenance

2004-03-05 Thread Graeme Evans
I don't think there would be much factory dirt in a Yamaha horn, but I would
strongly advise pouring a teaspoon or so of valve oil (eg. Al Cass) down the
mouthpipe, and blowing it vigourously through the horn while wriggling the
valve levers. This will spread it in a mist over the inside of the horn and
help to prevent corrosion. Follow this up with light machine oil on the top
and bottom bearings.

This is something I do frequently to my horns, and I have managed to greatly
limit green copper carbonate deposit build up.

One horn I have had from new has no corrosion whatsoever.

Cheers,

Graeme Evans
(Principal Horn, Melbourne Symphony Orchestra)
+61 3 9318 0690(H), +61 419 880371(B), +61 3 93180893(Fax)
E-mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]

- Original Message - 
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Saturday, March 06, 2004 1:54 PM
Subject: [Hornlist] New Horn Maintenance


>Hello everyone,
>I just recieved my new Yamaha YHR668NDII, and was wondering if I
have
> to take it into the shop to get the so called "factory dust" cleaned out.
>Is it true that this dirt or whatever it is, is in the new horn
from
> constructing it?
>Can I just attach a little bath hose to the mouthpiece reciever of
the
> horn and flush it out with water? Would that suffice in clearing it out?
>
>Thanks,
>Mike
> ___
> post: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> set your options at
http://music.memphis.edu/mailman/options/horn/graev%40comcen.com.au
>
>


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