Re: iMac G3 Snow—equivalent to original optical drive

2015-02-17 Thread J. R. Rosen
Alex, try www.otherworldcomputing.com

If they don't have a new piece that works, they would have refurbished to think 
about--maybe.
-OR-
lowendmac.com, and ask them about your iMac G3.


On Feb 17, 2015, at 11:32 AM, Alex Santos santos.pol...@gmail.com wrote:

 Dear users
 
 I have an iMac G3 Snow.
 
 I would like to purchase a new optical drive that behaves the same way as the 
 original and could physically fit in the drive bay.
 
 I am not interested in finding an Apple branded drive as they would likely 
 all be used/refurbed, have a short warranty and likely cost too much. I don't 
 want an external device. Before I forget, it should be able to boot my 
 original discs, OS9  OSX retail.
 
 Are equivalent drives still made today that I can purchase?
 
 I would sincerely appreciate any guidance.
 
 Thank you very much!
 Alex
 
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Re: G4 Flat Panel DVD drive

2012-10-23 Thread J. R. Rosen
I have a 20 G4 that I maxed the RAM out in, and installed a new DVD-RW into.  
You can get the DVD-RW at Newegg for about $12.00 and the RAM you can max out 
to 2GB with 1 GB RAM strips.  You can get that from them too.

Now, I'm not sure if your 17 can go up to 2GB RAM or not.  There's a free 
program called MacTracker that'll look-up your exact iMac model and tell you 
the max you can go to.

Then on iFixIt.com, you can find directions for doing the surgery... but it 
sounds like you've already been in there, so this should be a walk in the park.

With the new DVD-RW, you'll really be able to utilize the Mac and have some fun 
with it.

Good Luck--God Bless!
On Oct 23, 2012, at 7:27 PM, Jim Scott jesco...@gmail.com wrote:

 
 On Oct 23, 2012, at 3:44 PM, MacBob61 macbo...@cox.net wrote:
 
 I recently picked up a nice iMac Flat Panel G4 700MHz. This came with the 
 CD-RW drive. Since I wanted to be able to use DVDs (and also install 
 Leopard), I replaced the CD-RW drive with a DVD-ROM drive from one of my old 
 PCs. It actually works very well, with a couple of very minor exceptions:
 
 1) The drive is completely invisible (and therefore unusable) in Disk 
 Utility.
 2) The eject.menu icon in the menu bar shows No Drives when attempting 
 to eject. 
 
 The Disk Utility issue hasn't proven to be a problem yet. But, if the Eject 
 key on my keyboard ever died, the 2nd issue could become a problem. Anyway, 
 does anyone have any ideas as to why these issues exist?
 
 Yep, set the jumper to CS (cable select) and you should be in business. 
 Confirm that setting by looking at the jumper setting on the CDRW you 
 removed. If that doesn't work, you may have a cross-platform compatibility 
 issue, which is not surprising given the age of the hardware.
 
 Jim Scott
 Eureka, CA
 
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In all your ways acknowledge Him,
And He shall direct your paths.
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Re: iMac G3 266 Bondi (Rev. C) Question

2012-05-01 Thread J. R. Rosen
According to MacTracker, there was no Bondi Blue @ 266.  There was a  
Grape @ 266, but Bondi's only came in 233, and went only to revision  
B... unless they had an accelerator card put in a 233 like I did in  
mine back in '98.



On May 1, 2012, at 7:36 PM, Gary Fortman wrote:


Bondi blue is only rev A
Not rare at all
Value is minimal


Sent from my iPhone

On May 1, 2012, at 7:13 PM, Matthew Gill mgill...@gmail.com wrote:

I stumbled across an iMac G3 Bondi-Blue (tray loader, sans  
Infrared on the front)... from what I understand, this is  
considered a Rev. C model. Are these rare? Are they of any value?


Thanks!

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Re: upgrade HD for g3

2011-12-16 Thread J. R. Rosen
That Maxtor will work, but why not go for a 7200rpm and up to a 120gb  
hdd?  OWC has a 160gb hdd @ 7200rpm for $83.00.


Here's the link.
http://eshop.macsales.com/Search/Search.cfm? 
Ntk=PrimaryNs=P_Popularity%7c1Ne=5000N=6900Ntt=3.5+Internal+IDE% 
2fATA


If you iMac has a 5400 in it now, a 7200 will seem like such a speed  
demon, not to mention todays technology and data caches will make  
even a 5400 seem faster than the old technology that what's in there  
now.


If you are going to go to the trouble of the major surgery your  
talking about, go as big and fast as you can.  You may even want to  
replace your DVD burner with a DVDRW... you can get those for just a  
few dollars--then you could not only watch DVD's, but record them too.


GOOD LUCK  MERRY CHRISTMAS!


On Dec 16, 2011, at 9:34 AM, r_poetic wrote:


Hello,
while some earlier posts have touched on upgrading g3 iMac's, I just
wanted to pose my specific question.  I want to replace the 10 G hard
drive on this 400MH slot load with something bigger and faster.  I
believe there is no point in going above 128 G, and no faster than
5200rpm.  There aren't a lot of drives for sale now that fit that. If
it's ok to mention names, I wondered if this item, Maxtor 80 GB 5400
rpm IDE ATA/133 2MB Cache 3.5 Internal Hard Drive, would likely work
for me? or other advice?

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Trust in the Lord with all your heart;
   do not depend on your own understanding.
Seek His Will in all you do,
   and He will show you which path to take.
   Proverbs 3:5-6
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Re: Corrupted Files?

2011-12-02 Thread J. R. Rosen
This may sound too simplistic, but have you added any fonts lately?   
If so, or if not, you may have a corrupt font(s), which if a  
previously good document goes bad, it could be signs of corrupt fonts.


I hope this isn't the problem, because this is very difficult and  
time consuming to alleviate.


Just a thought.


On Dec 2, 2011, at 5:16 PM, Amanda Ward wrote:


Thanks to John and Jim for their response!!!

What I've done since my first post:

Ran disk utilities. Found 1 permission error in an iTunes  
directory. Repaired that. Verify disk reported no errors.


Then I nuked and reinstalled just the OS (10.6). Tried to update to  
10.6.8. Cannot expand the file. The file may have been corrupted


Re-nuked and reinstalled just the OS. Tried to update from a file  
downloaded on another computer.  Cannot expand the file. The file  
may have been corrupted


Re-nuked and reinstalled just the OS. Ran Drive Genius 3 verify.  
Disk appears to be okay. DG 3 scan found no bad blocks.


Re-nuked and reinstalled the OS. Restored from the earliest Time  
Machine Backup. Still the same problems. Ran Disk Warrior 4.3.  
Smart status was okay. There were directory errors… rebuilt and  
replaced. There were file errors reported, but I'm not sure what DW  
did about them. Still the same problems.  Files are corrupted or  
have invalid checksums.


I dunno!?!?!

Amanda


On Nov 19, 2011, at 9:50 PM, JohnCarmonne wrote:



On Nov 19, 2011, at 9:15 PM, Amanda Ward wrote:


Hi All…

Recently I've had problems with files I've downloaded not opening  
because the file is corrupted or has an invalid checksum.  
Also found files that I've downloaded in the past and  
successfully installed are now corrupted, etc, etc…
Most recently the backlog of updates from software update have  
failed to open.


I have no clue of what is causing this. Any advice will be  
greatly appreciated.


Amanda

Model Name: iMac
 Model Identifier:  iMac8,1
 Processor Name:Intel Core 2 Duo
 Processor Speed:   2.4 GHz
 Number of Processors:  1
 Total Number of Cores: 2
 L2 Cache:  6 MB
 Memory:4 GB
 Bus Speed: 1.07 GHz
 Boot ROM Version:  IM81.00C1.B00
 SMC Version (system):  1.29f1
OS 10.7.1

To begin with I'd run permissions repair and DiskWarrior just to  
get that out of the way.



John Carmonne
Yorba Linda CA
92886 USA
MacPro 2.66 Quad Nehalem






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Re: Bwahahahaha!!!

2011-03-09 Thread J. R. Rosen
So does this mean that you can run Classic on an Intel iMac?  Is that  
what I'm understanding here?  Are you kidding?

On Mar 9, 2011, at 4:45 PM, Bruce Johnson wrote:

I'll take a moment of mad doctor exhultation: I succeeded in getting  
OS X 10.4 running on my new 27 iMac!


http://dbdev2.pharmacy.arizona.edu/miscjunk/shipinabottleinabottle.png 



:-)

I got PearPC running in a Windows 7 Virtualbox VM.

I used this package:

http://www.pearpc.net/pearpc_net_package.php

Some gotchas:

If you have mouse integration turned on in VirtualBox, the mouse in  
PearPC flat out won't work; you have to turn it off.


The G4 processor option worked during the install, but PearPC would  
crash every time trying to boot from the installed system. Changing  
that to a G3 emulation fixed it.


The initial OS X install dialog, where you choose the language, for  
some reason did not display the icon to continue; hitting enter made  
it work.


Networking does not work currently, but that's because networking  
needs tun/tap virtual network interface system installed.


http://openvpn.se/development.html

I'll have to play with it a bit.

It appears you cannot compile PearPC under Xcode because it doesn't  
like the assembler bits; you can compile it, but the just-in-time  
compiler port of PearPC, responsible for much of it's speed, has to  
be excluded. This makes the emulated system exceedingly slow.


As it is, it feels like about a 450-500 mhz smurf to me right now;  
given that this is a 2.93 Ghz quad-core i7 with 8 gigs of RAM, that  
should give you an idea how it might work on your system.


I'm now going to investigate if I might not have a more efficient  
host for the PearPC, looking for a lighter-weight Linux host in  
VirtualBox and see if I can't get the performance up a wee bit.


--
Bruce Johnson
University of Arizona
College of Pharmacy
Information Technology Group

Institutions do not have opinions, merely customs


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Re: iMac G4 Adding RAM+HDD+SuperDrive... Tips?

2010-08-30 Thread J. R. Rosen

GOOD MORNING LISTERS!

In my 20 iMac G4 USB2... this past weekend I added a 500gb, 7200 RPM  
HDD, and a Samsung 22X DVD-RW, and 2 sticks of 1gb each RAM, and a  
new Battery (1/2AA, 3.6v).  All went very well.


The parts were purchased on NewEgg.com.  I thought about OWC, but  
some of the exact same parts were about 10 to 20% higher than  
NewEgg.  Like the DVD was $32 @ OWC, but $18 @ NewEgg.  The RAM chips  
were exactly the same price with the same warranty.  NewEgg's price  
on the HDD was also lower... $96.00 (OWC) vs $80.00 (NewEgg).


It was relatively easy, as advice obtained on this list, as well as  
the actual instructions with pictures from Accelerate Your Mac...
http://www.xlr8yourmac.com/systems/iMac_g4/imacg4_takeapart.html,  
made the job go smoothly and without any surprises.


One thing that was really stressed was using Thermal Paste on the  
parts that require it, and of course, grounding yourself to avoid  
static shock syndrome.


Of note... the 160gb HDD that was in the iMac G4 20 USB2 was a  
Seagate 7200 IDE set to Cable Select.  The DVD Drive that came out  
(Apple Super-Drive) was also set to Cable Select.


My sincerest Thanks to Tina and Jim for their step-by-step help in  
this undertaking.


Thanks to the powers that be to have a tremendous list such as this!

GOD BLESS - HAVE A OUTSTANDING WEEK!


On Aug 28, 2010, at 5:30 PM, Tina K. wrote:



J. R. Rosen wrote:

Good Afternoon  Happy Weekend to All!!!

Thanks X 1000 = a thousand Thanks for your help, suggestions,  
hints and ideas!


My 20 iMac USB2 is now the proud owner of a 24x DVD-RW, with 2gb  
RAM, AND a 500gb HDD!


It was all thanks to the tremendous help from Tina and Jim!

Thanks again  thanks to all on this list!



Congratulations, I'm glad that it went well and that the list could  
be of service to you.


Enjoy your 'new' Mac!


Tina

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Trust in the Lord with all your heart;
   do not depend on your own understanding.
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   and He will show you which path to take.
   Proverbs 3:5-6
+ + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + +


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Re: iMac G4 Adding RAM+HDD+SuperDrive... Tips?

2010-08-28 Thread J. R. Rosen
Good Afternoon  Happy Weekend to All!!!

Thanks X 1000 = a thousand Thanks for your help, suggestions, hints and ideas!

My 20 iMac USB2 is now the proud owner of a 24x DVD-RW, with 2gb RAM, AND a 
500gb HDD!

It was all thanks to the tremendous help from Tina and Jim!

Thanks again  thanks to all on this list!

GOD BLESS - ENJOY YOUR WEEKEND!

J R Rosen
281.467.5366
jrose...@sbcglobal.net
dillo...@armadillo-press.com
+++
Trust in the Lord with all your heart;
  do not depend on your own understanding.
Seek His will in all you do,
  and He will show you which path to take.
+++
Proverbs 3:5-6
Sent from my iPhone

On Aug 26, 2010, at 5:51 PM, Jim Scott jesco...@gmail.com wrote:

 
 On Aug 26, 2010, at 1:01 PM, J. R. Rosen wrote:
 
 As far as the thermal paste, I have heard not to over-do putting it on, but 
 there needs to be enough the seat the parts together for proper cooling.  
 And to definitely not block the cooling shafts that are in those blocks, 
 or pads that conduct the cooling.
 
 The thermal paste I purchased is GELID Solutions Thermal Compound.  The 
 feedback from purchasers was really good, so I chose this as it comes with a 
 little spatula to spread the compound.
 
 Any secrets in applying the paste to where it doesn't seep into the cooling 
 ducts?  I haven't opened it up yet, waiting for the parts and the time, so I 
 don't know how big or small those duct holes are.  I guess you could roll-up 
 a small piece of paper and put it in the hole, then let it expand to size, 
 then paint the paste around that.  I don't know, but am open to your learned 
 suggestions.
 
 Yep, just a little dab of the thermal paste will be all you need. And don't 
 worry about cooling ducts. There's no such thing where the thermal paste is 
 applied. 
 
 What you will see when you take the bottom case away from the top (pull it 
 gently toward you and then rotate it down from the top, and make sure the 
 optical drive door is rotated to the right about 90 degrees first) is that 
 you have to disconnect a bunch of cables and wires in order to separate the 
 bottom part with the logic board, etc. from the top or dome part. Note 
 carefully how all those cables are routed before you start disconnecting 
 them. Be warned that in your model it is difficult to remove the video cable 
 from the logic board. Why? There is a black cap over the actual connector 
 which keeps the connector firmly in place. It is glued to the logic board 
 with sticky tape-type stuff. You have to carefully pry the black cap up and 
 off the board without damaging anything around  it before you can disconnect 
 the video cable. My advice would be to disconnect everything *but* that video 
 cable, then put a wadded up towel or something similar under the logic board 
 assembly to take the stress off the video cable. You may have to rotate the 
 dome part to get the right and least stressful position. You'll find that 
 will give you enough space to get to everything, and you'll save yourself a 
 major headache and prevent posssible damage. 
 
 With the bottom of the computer resting on the towel, look at where the four 
 T-15 bolts come through the bottom case. You will see that the bolts go right 
 through the two pads where old thermal pads/paste/film needs to be removed 
 and replaced. You will not see any cooling ducts. You will see an enclosed 
 cooling pipe leading from the cpu area over to both pads. That pipe is 
 filled with a material that facilitates rapid transfer of heat. So don't 
 worry about using anything more than a small ball of thermal paste on each 
 pad. Spread it thinly until each pad surface is coated. Keep in mind that 
 only a very thin coat is needed to fill the microscopic hills and valleys of 
 the two mating surfaces on each pad.
 
 Enjoy!
 
 -- Jim
 
 
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iMac G4 Adding RAM+HDD+SuperDrive... Tips?

2010-08-26 Thread J. R. Rosen

GOOD AFTERNOON FELLOW LISTERS!

Got a 20 G4 (USB2) iMac the other day, and am going to put in 2  
sticks-O-RAM (1gb + 1gb).  So while I was in there, I thought I'd add  
a 500gb HDD and a 24x DVD RW.  That's about as far as you can carry  
upgrades, as it already has bluetooth and wifi.


I have printed the article on Accelerate Your Mac about the do's and  
don'ts, and I've been following the latest posts about the thermal  
paste.


My question is... as y'all have been actively inside the G4 dome (Jim  
and Tina), are there any tips, tricks, or other nuances you could  
throw my way to help me through this endeavor?  Any: if I had only  
know about that then kind of things, or is it pretty straight-forward?


Thanks so much for all the posts, and all the help!

J. R. Rosen
jrose...@sbcglobal.net
281-467-5366
281-586-9876 fax
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Trust in the Lord with all your heart;
   do not depend on your own understanding.
Seek His Will in all you do,
   and He will show you which path to take.
   Proverbs 3:5-6
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Re: iMac G4 Adding RAM+HDD+SuperDrive... Tips?

2010-08-26 Thread J. R. Rosen

WOW!

Tina and Jim... you are simply amazing!  The Optical Drive (ODD), HDD  
and the RAM were from OWC, so I believe they'll fit.


GREAT tip on the Battery, dust-bunnies, and the pillow on the neck!   
(I need a pillow on my neck too!)  I thought about the battery, but  
got side-tracked, so this got me refocused!


I will lift the bottom as suggested as I will be generating more heat  
with the 7200rpm HDD.  Raising it up should allow more air-flow.  But  
aren't the new drives being made now running much cooler than they  
used to?  I thought I recalled somewhere that the new large drives  
are actually running cooler than the 5400's of long ago.  Ah, maybe  
my mind is trying to let me think the things the way I want them to  
be... or something like that.


As far as the thermal paste, I have heard not to over-do putting it  
on, but there needs to be enough the seat the parts together for  
proper cooling.  And to definitely not block the cooling shafts  
that are in those blocks, or pads that conduct the cooling.


The thermal paste I purchased is GELID Solutions Thermal Compound.   
The feedback from purchasers was really good, so I chose this as it  
comes with a little spatula to spread the compound.


Any secrets in applying the paste to where it doesn't seep into the  
cooling ducts?  I haven't opened it up yet, waiting for the parts and  
the time, so I don't know how big or small those duct holes are.  I  
guess you could roll-up a small piece of paper and put it in the  
hole, then let it expand to size, then paint the paste around that.   
I don't know, but am open to your learned suggestions.


I just want to thank you both for taking the time out of your  
precious day to really go through everything!  I'll say it again...  
y'all are simply amazing!


THANKS - GOD BLESS - HAVE A GREAT DAY!!!

On Aug 26, 2010, at 1:43 PM, Jim Scott wrote:


On Aug 26, 2010, at 11:06 AM, Tina K. wrote:


J. R. Rosen wrote:
Got a 20 G4 (USB2) iMac the other day, and am going to put in 2  
sticks-O-RAM (1gb + 1gb).  So while I was in there, I thought I'd  
add a 500gb HDD and a 24x DVD RW.  That's about as far as you can  
carry upgrades, as it already has bluetooth and wifi.


I have printed the article on Accelerate Your Mac about the do's  
and don'ts, and I've been following the latest posts about the  
thermal paste.


My question is... as y'all have been actively inside the G4 dome  
(Jim and Tina), are there any tips, tricks, or other nuances you  
could throw my way to help me through this endeavor?  Any: if I  
had only know about that then kind of things, or is it pretty  
straight-forward?


One think to keep in mind right off the bat is that an ODD much,  
or possibly any, larger than the OEM unit will not fit into the  
carrier. I believe it was a Pioneer 106 that Apple put in those  
machines but I could be mistaken. Also the stock HDD is a 5200 RPM  
unit so if you install a 7200 RPM drive there will be more heat  
generated, you will probably want to keep the inlet  outlet clean  
and hopefully keep it in a cool environment.


Dis/reassembly is pretty straight forward. The outer user cover is  
a no brainer but be careful with the inner factory cover as it  
houses the MoBo and has several wires and cables attached to it.  
The first gen G4s had a cable that ran to the ODD/carrier that  
often broke upon disassembly but Apple corrected that on the USB 2  
models. You will want to keep an eye on the Airport antenna wire  
during dis/reassembly too.


Oh, and of course don't ruin all your work with a static jolt!



Get all the dust bunnies out while you're in there. Replace the 1/2  
AA clock battery with a new one, unless the one in there tests at  
3.6 volts or slightly higher.


Pay attention to the jumper settings on the optical disk drive  
(ODD) and hard disk drive (HDD). Set the new ones the same way, but  
be prepared to open it up again and reset them. I've set new ODDs  
and HDDs the same way as Apple did, only to find that some  
manufacturers' products don't always behave the same way as  
original equipment.


Be aware that there are two different physical sizes of RAM sticks,  
with the longer 184-pin PC2700 stick mounted in a logic board slot  
and the shorty 200-pin PC 2700 SODIMM in the bottom user-accessible  
slot. If you can't find PC2700, PC3200 also will work. In fact,  
I've found PC3200 sticks that were installed in G4 Macs by Apple  
that were advertised as having PC2700 memory.


Replace the thermal paste or pads with new top-quality thermal  
paste before you put it back together. Apple specifies using a T-15  
Torx bit on the four case bolts, and that they should be torqued to  
17 inch-pounds. I use my automotive tools to do that, but I've also  
successfully used a T-15 screwdriver and really cranked down on  
those bolts. Whatever you do, make sure those bolts are so tight  
that you can't easily loosen them by hand. That should be enough  
torque to clamp