KR> clean workshop

2016-01-25 Thread Paul
In my shop it means I can't find anything... 

- Original Message -

From: "Flesner via KRnet"  
To: "KRnet"  
Cc: "Flesner"  
Sent: Saturday, January 23, 2016 10:50:51 AM 
Subject: KR> clean workshop 

+
 

One of my "observations of life" is " a clean flat surface in a 
workshop will stay clean as long as lt stays in motion". ?Put ?that 
work bench on wheels and keep it moving. :-) 

Larry Flesner 


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KR> Manifold vacuum

2016-01-25 Thread S
> 
> It was a very long time ago.  The engine was a Type 1 VW, and the carb was
> probably a POSA.  If there was any mixture control, it had to be manual.
> 
Thank you Dan !
I got a full set of vaccum instruments from a very friendly aircraft mechanic 
and I am exploring the best way to supply them, preferably without the use of 
draggy and icing-prone external venturi.
I may try to use some sort of combined manifold vacuum/exhaust venturi to 
create enough vacuum in all flight conditions.

Stefan
s_sbal "at" hotmail.com   



KR> Manifold vacuum

2016-01-25 Thread Gary Hinkle


Since I use a distributor instead of a mag, I installed a vacuum pump were the 
mag mounts. Made a drive that bolted on. Has worked for over 500hrs with no 
issues.


Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE smartphone

 Original message 
From: S via KRnet  
List-Post: krnet@list.krnet.org
Date: 01/25/2016  07:34  (GMT-05:00) 
To: KRnet  
Cc: S  
Subject: Re: KR> Manifold vacuum 

> 
> It was a very long time ago.? The engine was a Type 1 VW, and the carb was
> probably a POSA.? If there was any mixture control, it had to be manual.
> 
Thank you Dan !
I got a full set of vaccum instruments from a very friendly aircraft mechanic 
and I am exploring the best way to supply them, preferably without the use of 
draggy and icing-prone external venturi.
I may try to use some sort of combined manifold vacuum/exhaust venturi to 
create enough vacuum in all flight conditions.

Stefan
s_sbal "at" hotmail.com?? 
??  ? 
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KR> Manifold vacuum

2016-01-25 Thread Jeff Scott


KR> Manifold vacuum

2016-01-25 Thread Nerobro
<--- not a pilot...Yet...

Manifold vacuum isn't something I'd depend on.  As engine load goes up,
manifold vacuum goes down.  I'd worry about instruments getting good vacuum
on climbout.  If the engine cuts out, your manifold vacuum will drop as
well (even if the prop windmills).  Using exhaust to produce vacuum is
interesting too, I bet it would work, but I doubt you'd get good vacuum
with the engine windmilling.

I suppose i'm making the argument for a vacuum horn, or an engine driven
vacuum pump, and am assuming the engine will windmill.

On Mon, Jan 25, 2016 at 9:55 AM, Jeff Scott via KRnet 
wrote:

>
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KR> Manifold vacuum

2016-01-25 Thread Dave Acklam
Use 12v vac pump??

Manifold pressure isn't a constant enough source
On Jan 25, 2016 4:35 AM, "S via KRnet"  wrote:

> >
> > It was a very long time ago.  The engine was a Type 1 VW, and the carb
> was
> > probably a POSA.  If there was any mixture control, it had to be manual.
> >
> Thank you Dan !
> I got a full set of vaccum instruments from a very friendly aircraft
> mechanic and I am exploring the best way to supply them, preferably without
> the use of draggy and icing-prone external venturi.
> I may try to use some sort of combined manifold vacuum/exhaust venturi to
> create enough vacuum in all flight conditions.
>
> Stefan
> s_sbal "at" hotmail.com
>
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search.
> To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave at list.krnet.org
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>


KR> Manifold vacuum

2016-01-25 Thread Randall Smith
My Bellanca super Viking had one instrument to the intake manifold in for 
emergency only. Full throttle I had almost no vacuum. Only drove my turn and 
bank. Not enough constant vacuum on your intake. Most airplanes with a full set 
of instruments requires 5 inches minimum. 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jan 25, 2016, at 10:41 AM, Dave Acklam via KRnet  
> wrote:
> 
> Use 12v vac pump??
> 
> Manifold pressure isn't a constant enough source
> On Jan 25, 2016 4:35 AM, "S via KRnet"  wrote:
> 
>>> 
>>> It was a very long time ago.  The engine was a Type 1 VW, and the carb
>> was
>>> probably a POSA.  If there was any mixture control, it had to be manual.
>> Thank you Dan !
>> I got a full set of vaccum instruments from a very friendly aircraft
>> mechanic and I am exploring the best way to supply them, preferably without
>> the use of draggy and icing-prone external venturi.
>> I may try to use some sort of combined manifold vacuum/exhaust venturi to
>> create enough vacuum in all flight conditions.
>> 
>> Stefan
>> s_sbal "at" hotmail.com
>> 
>> ___
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>> To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave at list.krnet.org
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>> options
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KR> Manifold vacuum

2016-01-25 Thread david
The electric vacuum pumps (for the brakes) from the mid-90's 'Vettes are
about the best out there.  I put one on my Mustang II.  Very durable. 
Not too expensive.

David M.




On 01/25/2016 10:41 AM, Dave Acklam via KRnet wrote:
> Use 12v vac pump??
>
> Manifold pressure isn't a constant enough source
> On Jan 25, 2016 4:35 AM, "S via KRnet"  wrote:
>
>>> It was a very long time ago.  The engine was a Type 1 VW, and the carb
>> was
>>> probably a POSA.  If there was any mixture control, it had to be manual.
>>>
>> Thank you Dan !
>> I got a full set of vaccum instruments from a very friendly aircraft
>> mechanic and I am exploring the best way to supply them, preferably without
>> the use of draggy and icing-prone external venturi.
>> I may try to use some sort of combined manifold vacuum/exhaust venturi to
>> create enough vacuum in all flight conditions.
>>
>> Stefan
>> s_sbal "at" hotmail.com
>>
>> ___
>> Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search.
>> To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave at list.krnet.org
>> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
>> see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to change
>> options
>>
> ___
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KR> Manifold vacuum

2016-01-25 Thread Nerobro
I think I like the idea of an electric vacuum pump.  It's easy to have a
backup, and keeps working even when the engine doesn't.

On Mon, Jan 25, 2016 at 10:41 AM, Dave Acklam via KRnet <
krnet at list.krnet.org> wrote:

> Use 12v vac pump??
>
> Manifold pressure isn't a constant enough source
> On Jan 25, 2016 4:35 AM, "S via KRnet"  wrote:
>
> > >
> > > It was a very long time ago.  The engine was a Type 1 VW, and the carb
> > was
> > > probably a POSA.  If there was any mixture control, it had to be
> manual.
> > >
> > Thank you Dan !
> > I got a full set of vaccum instruments from a very friendly aircraft
> > mechanic and I am exploring the best way to supply them, preferably
> without
> > the use of draggy and icing-prone external venturi.
> > I may try to use some sort of combined manifold vacuum/exhaust venturi to
> > create enough vacuum in all flight conditions.
> >
> > Stefan
> > s_sbal "at" hotmail.com
> >
> > ___
> > Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search.
> > To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave at list.krnet.org
> > please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
> > see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to
> change
> > options
> >
> ___
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> To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave at list.krnet.org
> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
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>


KR> Manifold vacuum

2016-01-25 Thread tinyauto at aol.com

Looks like VW/Audi and Volvo had there pumps also.  Not all are what I could 
call cheap.  Quick look at ebay has new piston pump style ones at $200-$300ish 
and the rotary style European car style ones are used for $25-$75ish.  I don't 
know what the specs are on each of these, but interesting to know such a device 
exists.

Kevin Golden
Streak Shadow, etc.
Harrisonville, MO



-Original Message-
From: david via KRnet 
To: KRnet 
Cc: david 
Sent: Mon, Jan 25, 2016 10:54 am
Subject: Re: KR> Manifold vacuum

The electric vacuum pumps (for the brakes) from the mid-90's 'Vettes are
about the best out there.  I put one on my Mustang II.  Very durable. 
Not too expensive.

David M.




On 01/25/2016 10:41 AM, Dave Acklam via KRnet wrote:
> Use 12v vac pump??
>
> Manifold pressure isn't a constant enough source
> On Jan 25, 2016 4:35 AM, "S via KRnet"  wrote:
>
>>> It was a very long time ago.  The engine was a Type 1 VW, and the carb
>> was
>>> probably a POSA.  If there was any mixture control, it had to be manual.
>>>
>> Thank you Dan !
>> I got a full set of vaccum instruments from a very friendly aircraft
>> mechanic and I am exploring the best way to supply them, preferably without
>> the use of draggy and icing-prone external venturi.
>> I may try to use some sort of combined manifold vacuum/exhaust venturi to
>> create enough vacuum in all flight conditions.
>>
>> Stefan
>> s_sbal "at" hotmail.com
>>
>> ___
>> Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search.
>> To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave at list.krnet.org
>> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
>> see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to change
>> options
>>
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KR> Manifold vacuum

2016-01-25 Thread Virgil N. Salisbury

Put the draggy venturi tube inside the cowl.
Warm air exiting the cowl will keep it from
icing, Virg


On 1/25/2016 11:16 AM, Nerobro via KRnet wrote:
> <--- not a pilot...Yet...
>
> Manifold vacuum isn't something I'd depend on.  As engine load goes up,
> manifold vacuum goes down.  I'd worry about instruments getting good vacuum
> on climbout.  If the engine cuts out, your manifold vacuum will drop as
> well (even if the prop windmills).  Using exhaust to produce vacuum is
> interesting too, I bet it would work, but I doubt you'd get good vacuum
> with the engine windmilling.
>
> I suppose i'm making the argument for a vacuum horn, or an engine driven
> vacuum pump, and am assuming the engine will windmill.
>
> On Mon, Jan 25, 2016 at 9:55 AM, Jeff Scott via KRnet  list.krnet.org>
> wrote:
>
>>
>> ___
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>> options
>>
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KR> Regardez "VID 20131216 144515 420" sur YouTube

2016-01-25 Thread jean paul GLOTIN
https://youtu.be/u95DXZiIO1w

Connect? par Motorola


KR> Regardez "VID 20131216 144515 420" sur YouTube

2016-01-25 Thread david
Which engine is that?  Hand propping always kinda scared me.  Also, I've
read many articles where it is strongly advised NOT to hand prop an
automobile engine (probably because they rev up so high so quickly.)



On 01/25/2016 12:58 PM, jean paul GLOTIN via KRnet wrote:
> https://youtu.be/u95DXZiIO1w
>
> Connect? par Motorola
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KR> clean workshop

2016-01-25 Thread paul rossi
 I WANT TO LIST THIS KR2 FOR SALE IN SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA, IT IS COMPLETE
AND PRO, BUILT BUT NEVER FLOWN, IT IS A BEAUTY,GREAT PAINT,AND FINISH WORK,
RECT,GEAR, FULL INTERIOR AND PANEL, PLEASE CONTACT PAUL ROSSI, AT
4PAULROSSI at GMIL.COM, CELL 951 283 7007,,, PHOTOS AND VIEWING ON REQUEST,
THANK YOU ALL,,,

On Mon, Jan 25, 2016 at 4:23 AM, Paul via KRnet 
wrote:

> In my shop it means I can't find anything...
>
> - Original Message -
>
> From: "Flesner via KRnet" 
> To: "KRnet" 
> Cc: "Flesner" 
> Sent: Saturday, January 23, 2016 10:50:51 AM
> Subject: KR> clean workshop
>
>
> +
>
> One of my "observations of life" is " a clean flat surface in a
> workshop will stay clean as long as lt stays in motion".  Put  that
> work bench on wheels and keep it moving. :-)
>
> Larry Flesner
>
>
> ___
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>
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>



-- 
Paul Rossi


KR> Regardez "VID 20131216 144515 420" sur YouTube

2016-01-25 Thread Ronald Wright
If you hand prop correctly, it is not a problem.  You should NOT hook your 
fingers around the blade.  You press your hand against the face of the blade.  
In case of a backfire your hand won't get jerked into the prop or break your 
hand/fingers.  Most people incorrectly hook their finger tips around the back 
of the prop, which is not a good idea.

You should also be stepping back, away from the prop when hand propping.  Do 
NOT lean into or toward the engine.

Ron



On Mon, 1/25/16, david via KRnet  wrote:

 Subject: Re: KR> Regardez "VID 20131216 144515 420" sur YouTube
 To: "KRnet" 
 Cc: "david" 
 Date: Monday, January 25, 2016, 1:05 PM

 Which engine is that??
 Hand propping always kinda scared me.? Also, I've
 read many articles where it is strongly advised
 NOT to hand prop an
 automobile engine
 (probably because they rev up so high so quickly.)



 On 01/25/2016 12:58 PM, jean paul GLOTIN via
 KRnet wrote:
 > https://youtu.be/u95DXZiIO1w
 >
 > Connect? par
 Motorola
 >
 ___
 > Search the KRnet Archives at
 http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search.
 > To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message
 to KRnet-leave at list.krnet.org
 > please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
 > see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org
 to change options


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KR> . Re: Wing Attach Fitting questions (Chris Kinnaman)

2016-01-25 Thread Frank Hamelly
Chris, I was lying in bed last night wondering about the integrity of the
WAFs myself.  Those four little bolts are all there is between flying and a
wing ripping off, especially under heavy G.  Has anyone ever welded the
inner and outer WAF fittings after assembly 'just in case' or would that
impose unwanted stresses on them?

Frank

On Mon, Jan 25, 2016 at 12:00 PM,  wrote:

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> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
> than "Re: Contents of KRnet digest..."
>
>
> Today's Topics:
>
>1.  Wing Attach Fitting questions (Dave Acklam)
>2.  VW engines (Oscar Zuniga)
>3. Re:  Wing Attach Fitting questions (Chris Kinnaman)
>4. Re:  clean workshop (Paul)
>5. Re:  Manifold vacuum (S)
>6. Re:  Manifold vacuum (Gary Hinkle)
>7. Re:  Manifold vacuum (Jeff Scott)
>8. Re:  Manifold vacuum (Nerobro)
>9. Re:  Manifold vacuum (Dave Acklam)
>   10. Re:  Manifold vacuum (Randall Smith)
>   11. Re:  Manifold vacuum (david)
>
>
> --
>
> Message: 1
> Date: Sun, 24 Jan 2016 10:35:43 -0800
> From: Dave Acklam 
> To: KRnet 
> Subject: KR> Wing Attach Fitting questions
> Message-ID:
> <
> CAAeYjfhsT9eKvgaXChTheActKHPncM29UmT2Raq7xwWGxo14AQ at mail.gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8
>
> Ok...
>
> Since some folks here have a much better understanding of the 'design'
> behind the WAFs than I do...
>
> I'm not an engineer, and I don't want to die... So further experience would
> probably help
>
> Some questions:
>
> 1) What is the key force or mechanisim providing strength to the WAF joint?
> Is it the clamping pressure imparted by the bolts? The shaft of the bolt
> itself?
>
> 2)  Is there a preferred method to 'adjust' a set of wing fittings that
> were drilled wrong? Would welding up the hole & re-drilling work? Bushings?
> Just make a new set?
>
> Any other info would be useful.
>
> I'm trying to mate wings from another KR, that I bought, to mine...
>
>
> --
>
> Message: 2
> Date: Sun, 24 Jan 2016 11:08:12 -0800
> From: Oscar Zuniga 
> To: "krnet at list.krnet.org" 
> Subject: KR> VW engines
> Message-ID: 
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
>
> I've been looking for pictures and a writeup on a beautiful KR with a Type
> 4 that was built by a Florida medical guy.  As I recall, it won some awards
> at Sun 'n' Fun and may have won a 'Best Engine' at a KR Gathering.  I
> believe the builder sold it and he may have died since then too, but I may
> also be getting my stories mixed up.  Anyway, studying pictures of that
> firewall forward would be informative.
> Oscar ZunigaMedford, OR
>
>
> --
>
> Message: 3
> Date: Sun, 24 Jan 2016 12:49:08 -0700
> From: Chris Kinnaman 
> To: KRnet 
> Subject: Re: KR> Wing Attach Fitting questions
> Message-ID: <56A52AB4.5070809 at spinn.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
>
> If you have mismatched hole locations between the WAFs and the spar,
> first determine if the wing fittings were actually drilled wrong. If the
> hole diameters are within limits and fit the bolts without play, setback
> of hole from the edge of the WAF is adequate, and they match one spar,
> either the center section or the outer panels, you could glue
> tight-fitting dowels into the unmatched spar's fitting holes and
> carefully re-drill new fitting holes which match the WAF hole locations.
> Clamping pressure is not considered when engineering this type of bolted
> joint, it's the shaft of the bolt in shear in this case which bears the
> loads.
>
> Chris
>
> On 1/24/2016 11:35 AM, Dave Acklam via KRnet wrote:
> > Ok...
> >
> > Since some folks here have a much better understanding of the 'design'
> > behind the WAFs than I do...
> >
> > I'm not an engineer, and I don't want to die... So further experience
> would
> > probably help
> >
> > Some questions:
> >
> > 1) What is the key force or mechanisim providing strength to the WAF
> joint?
> > Is it the clamping pressure imparted by the bolts? The shaft of the bolt
> > itself?
> >
> > 2)  Is there a preferred method to 'adjust' a set of wing fittings that
> > were drilled wrong? Would welding up the hole & re-drilling work?
> Bushings?
> > Just make a new set?
> >
> > Any other info would be useful.
> >
> > I'm trying to mate wings from another KR, that I bought, to mine...
> > ___
> > Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search.
> > To UNsubscribe from KRnet,

KR> Regardez "VID 20131216 144515 420" sur YouTube

2016-01-25 Thread jean paul GLOTIN
No probl?me to start with myWv engine converted with greatplains parts
Connecmt? par Motorol

david via KRnet  a ?crit?:


Which engine is that?  Hand propping always kinda scared me.  Also, I've
read many articles where it is strongly advised NOT to hand prop an
automobile engine (probably because they rev up so high so quickly.)



On 01/25/2016 12:58 PM, jean paul GLOTIN via KRnet wrote:
> https://youtu.be/u95DXZiIO1w
>
> Connect? par Motorola
> ___
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> To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave at list.krnet.org
> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
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> options


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KR> Manifold vacuum

2016-01-25 Thread Jeff Scott


Using the vacuum from the intake manifold is something that used to be 
installed as an aftermarket *EMERGENCY*?suction source for some light aircraft. 
However, it should be noted that it was for emergency use only, with good 
reason. Your vacuum instruments are labeled as requiring 4-1/2 - 5 inches of 
suction to work properly. Generally speaking, they will work OK on 3-1/2" of 
suction (2-1/2" suction for T&B only).

Now think about the throttle setting and manifold pressure you use when flying 
your aircraft. At full throttle, your manifold pressure is the same as ambient 
pressure, so there is no vacuum to be sourced at the manifold. So your vacuum 
instruments will spin up while you are throttled back during your run up, but 
will be spinning down while at full throttle during take off and climb. Now, 
let's think about cruising at 7500'. You would nominally have ~23" manifold 
pressure at full throttle at 7500'. In order to generate 3-1/2" of suction for 
the gyros, you would have to throttle back substantially to 19-1/2" manifold 
pressure. It is a very rare day that I actually throttle my KR back far enough 
to have 3 - 4 " of manifold pressure available to be used as a source to 
operate gyros.

Additionally, the air that moves through the gyros is going into the intake 
manifold. That is a huge air leak into the intake system. It not only 
substantially leans the mixture, possibly more than you can compensate with the 
mixture control, but unless that vacuum leak is dead center in the manifold, it 
is likely to cause one cylinder to run extremely lean, likely causing valve 
damage by extended operations under those conditions.

One solution I've seen on a certificated plane was to mount venturies on the 
bottom of the plane just aft of the engine in the slipstream of engine cooling 
air. The venturies are then running in already disturbed air, and are not prone 
to freezing in icing conditions, although I can't imagine why one would fly 
their KR in icing conditions anyway. Venturies will still generate drag, but 
Not as much as out in the undisturbed slip stream, and would be a much safer 
system than creating a large vacuum leak in the intake manifold, then planning 
to operate at partial throttle to keep the gyros spinning.

Gyros are heavy and require a vacuum source with a lot of associated heavy 
plumbing. Mike Styrewalt has his Dynon D2 for sale for a very reasonable price. 
That weighs next to nothing and requires almost nothing in the way of power 
while replacing all three gyros.? There's a reason why mechanics are giving 
away perfectly functional gyro instruments.

-Jeff Scott
Los Alamos, NM
?
--
Hi,
Is there anybody on the list having experience with a vacuum for gyro/turn-bank 
supply generated by the carburetor throttle? If yes, could you please share it.
FYI, I found this interesting reference:
http://cybra.p.lodz.pl/Content/6351/AER_56_6.pdf

Stefan
s_sbal "at" hotmail.com



KR> Regardez "VID 20131216 144515 420" sur YouTube

2016-01-25 Thread jean paul GLOTIN
My engine is Wv converted with greatplains parts no problem to
starting jean paul glotin french kr2 builder B-)

Connect? par Motorola

david via KRnet  a ?crit?:


Which engine is that?  Hand propping always kinda scared me.  Also, I've
read many articles where it is strongly advised NOT to hand prop an
automobile engine (probably because they rev up so high so quickly.)



On 01/25/2016 12:58 PM, jean paul GLOTIN via KRnet wrote:
> https://youtu.be/u95DXZiIO1w
>
> Connect? par Motorola
> ___
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> options


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KR> Vacuum Pump

2016-01-25 Thread laser147 at juno.com
I had a 1983 Cadillac with the 4.1 V-8 that had a belt driven vacuum pump
to supplement manifold vacuum.  I don't know how common that is, using a
vacuum pump to supplement manifold vacuum on car engines, but the 4.1
came from the factory with such a pump.  So . . . junkyards would be a
good source of vacuum pumps although I'm sure one can find a more elegant
solution to provide vacuum to drive whatever needs to be driven.  

Keep in mind that you can use two external venturi tubes instead of one. 
I've seen planes with two.  They're subject to icing as someone said . .
. and that would happen right when you needed your vacuum instruments the
most.  In this era of AHARS I think I would bypass using vacuum at all. 
Vacuum pumps have always been the weak link in the system and venturi
tubes are too vulnerable as well as causing drag.  It's time to go with
more reliable technology if you intend to actually use those instruments.


Mike
KSEE




Fast, Secure, NetZero 4G Mobile Broadband. Try it.
http://www.netzero.net/?refcd=NZINTISP0512T4GOUT2



KR> VW engines

2016-01-25 Thread laser147 at juno.com
Whoever bought Video Bob's KR project got a Type IV that looked really
nice - as did the entire project.  Whoever bought that project got quite
a deal.  


Citi ThankYou?? Preferred
Earn 20,000 bonus ThankYou?? Points
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/56a6802cf2f122b53d8st02vuc



KR> clean workshop

2016-01-25 Thread paul rossi
HI AGAIN WANT TO CORRECT THE  MY EMAIL ADDRESS4PAULROSSI at GMAIL.COM,,
SEE I AM 74,

On Mon, Jan 25, 2016 at 11:06 AM, paul rossi <4paulrossi at gmail.com> wrote:

>  I WANT TO LIST THIS KR2 FOR SALE IN SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA, IT IS COMPLETE
> AND PRO, BUILT BUT NEVER FLOWN, IT IS A BEAUTY,GREAT PAINT,AND FINISH WORK,
> RECT,GEAR, FULL INTERIOR AND PANEL, PLEASE CONTACT PAUL ROSSI, AT
> 4PAULROSSI at GMIL.COM, CELL 951 283 7007,,, PHOTOS AND VIEWING ON REQUEST,
> THANK YOU ALL,,,
>
> On Mon, Jan 25, 2016 at 4:23 AM, Paul via KRnet 
> wrote:
>
>> In my shop it means I can't find anything...
>>
>> - Original Message -
>>
>> From: "Flesner via KRnet" 
>> To: "KRnet" 
>> Cc: "Flesner" 
>> Sent: Saturday, January 23, 2016 10:50:51 AM
>> Subject: KR> clean workshop
>>
>>
>> +
>>
>> One of my "observations of life" is " a clean flat surface in a
>> workshop will stay clean as long as lt stays in motion".  Put  that
>> work bench on wheels and keep it moving. :-)
>>
>> Larry Flesner
>>
>>
>> ___
>> Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search.
>> To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave at list.krnet.org
>> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
>> see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to
>> change options
>>
>> ___
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>> To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave at list.krnet.org
>> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
>> see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to
>> change options
>>
>
>
>
> --
> Paul Rossi
>



-- 
Paul Rossi


KR> clean workshop

2016-01-25 Thread Paul VISK
My shop get cleaned when I ?can't find a tool or something else. ?I put stuff 
away until I bumb into what I'm looking for. : )


Paul ViskBelleville Il618-406-4705

 Original message From: Paul via KRnet  Date: 1/25/2016  7:23 AM  (GMT-05:00) To: KR2List  Cc: Paul  Subject: Re: KR> clean 
workshop 
In my shop it means I can't find anything... 

- Original Message -

From: "Flesner via KRnet"  
To: "KRnet"  
Cc: "Flesner"  
Sent: Saturday, January 23, 2016 10:50:51 AM 
Subject: KR> clean workshop 

+
 

One of my "observations of life" is " a clean flat surface in a 
workshop will stay clean as long as lt stays in motion". ?Put ?that 
work bench on wheels and keep it moving. :-) 

Larry Flesner 


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KR> INTAKE MANIFOLD VACUUM

2016-01-25 Thread ol' weirdo
Don't you fellows remember when the windshield wipers were driven by
a vacuum motor connected to the intake manifold? Open the throttle and go
blind. Not a good idea for an airplane.

Bill Weir

This
email has been sent from a virus-free computer protected by Avast.
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<#DDB4FAA8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2>


KR> INTAKE MANIFOLD VACUUM

2016-01-25 Thread Virgil N. Salisbury

Auto air pumps work in reverse. Just change the input to
get vacuum, Virg


On 1/25/2016 4:39 PM, ol' weirdo via KRnet wrote:
> Don't you fellows remember when the windshield wipers were driven by
> a vacuum motor connected to the intake manifold? Open the throttle and go
> blind. Not a good idea for an airplane.
>
> Bill Weir
> 
> This
> email has been sent from a virus-free computer protected by Avast.
> www.avast.com
> 
> <#DDB4FAA8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2>
> ___
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> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
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> options
>




KR> Wing Attach Fitting questions

2016-01-25 Thread brian.kraut at eamanufacturing.com
I certainly would not weld up a hole in a wing attach fitting.  There is
no telling what would have in the way of small voids and/or cracks in
the weld, soft or hard and brittle spots from contamination, etc.  If it
was welded you would need to remove any plating, use a 4130 welding rod,
put on some extra material, then machine it down flat again, re heat
treat it, and if I was flying it all would be done by a professional
aerospace welder and it would get professionally inspected for cracks by
X ray, eddy current, magnaflux, or whatever the correct method is. 
Admittedly, I may be going too far, but I certainly would not weld it
and put my ass in the plane.

I remade a set of wing attach fittings for a Starduster 2 once.  The
holes to attach it to the spars were hand drilled so they were not
perfectly spaced.  I wanted the new holes to perfectly match the holes
drilled in the wood spar so what I did was clamp the new undrilled
fitting on my milling machine, put the old fitting on top of it and
eyeball align the first hole and drill, put a bolt through both fittings
to hole them together aligned, then one more hole at a time I found the
center of each with a dial indicator and indicated and drilled one hole
at a time.  I think it took three or four hours to do eight fittings,
but the result was new fittings that perfectly matched the holes drilled
in the spars.  Any machine shop should be able to do this for you if you
have fittings that are not machine drilled to the exact spacing.

Epoxied in dowels may also be acceptable, but been a long time since I
have read the wood repair section of the 43.13.


 Original Message 
Subject: KR> Wing Attach Fitting questions
From: Dave Acklam via KRnet 
List-Post: krnet@list.krnet.org
Date: Sun, January 24, 2016 11:35 am
To: KRnet 
Cc: Dave Acklam 

Ok...

Since some folks here have a much better understanding of the 'design'
behind the WAFs than I do...

I'm not an engineer, and I don't want to die... So further experience
would
probably help

Some questions:

1) What is the key force or mechanisim providing strength to the WAF
joint?
Is it the clamping pressure imparted by the bolts? The shaft of the bolt
itself?

2) Is there a preferred method to 'adjust' a set of wing fittings that
were drilled wrong? Would welding up the hole & re-drilling work?
Bushings?
Just make a new set?

Any other info would be useful.

I'm trying to mate wings from another KR, that I bought, to mine...
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KR> Wing Attach Fitting questions

2016-01-25 Thread Mark Langford

Dave Acklam wrote:

> 1) What is the key force or mechanisim providing strength to the WAF joint?
> Is it the clamping pressure imparted by the bolts? The shaft of the bolt
> itself?
>
> 2)  Is there a preferred method to 'adjust' a set of wing fittings that
> were drilled wrong? Would welding up the hole & re-drilling work? Bushings?
> Just make a new set?

The accepted method to this (and you are certainly not the first) is to 
epoxy wooden dowels into the previous holes and redrill to fit the new 
fittings. Soak both hole and dowel in T-88 (or other similar) epoxy first.

The main mechanism for how the WAFs work is through shear, in the case 
of the bolt-to-WAF joint, but the bolt-to-wood interface is through 
compression of the bolt against the hole in the wood.  Regardless of 
where the WAF is, the bolt is only capable of pushing against the hole 
in the wood...not so good at pulling on a hole, so compression is what 
makes the bolts work in the wood.  Given that, the dowel method makes 
perfect sense, and how it's been done in the past.  It's all well 
documented in the old newsletters at http://www.krnet.org/newsletter/ .

Another thing to realize is that when the plane is flying with positive 
G's (almost always), the upper spar cap is in compression, and the lower 
cap is in tension.  That's why the edge distance of the bolts to the 
spar cap can violate the minimum distance that common sense would 
normally dictate...think of the upper spar as being pushed into the 
fuselage, and the lower spar cap being pulled outwards from the 
fuselage, rather than supporting plane, and the above paragraph makes 
more sense.

And as Chris wrote earlier, friction doesn't count in the calculation, 
mainly because the wood will likely "creep" over time so that the 
tension is relaxed, although friction is always nice to have to keep the 
wings from wobbling up and down on the ground.

Mark Langford
ML at N56ML.com
http://www.n56ml.com



KR> Wing Attach Fitting questions

2016-01-25 Thread Flesner
:
>Chris, I was lying in bed last night wondering about the integrity of the
>WAFs myself.  Those four little bolts are all there is between flying and a
>wing ripping off, especially under heavy G.
>Frank
>+


Many builder / fliers are concerned about the integrity of the wing 
attach fittings.  I , unfortunately, have inspected the wreckage of 
three crashed KR's and in none of them did the attach fittings 
fail.  The wood structure will fail independent of the attach fitting 
area, even in the most violent of crashes.  Built to plans, even 
without a single bolt and spacer top and bottom, but with the four 
bolt attach, the attach fittings would appear to be strongest area of the wing.

When it comes to KR's, one has to remember that each aircraft is a 
"one off" structure. Wings from one KR run a 99.999 percent chance of 
not fitting another aircraft unless a single jig was used to build 
and locate the fitting and spars.  You're asking two random and 
independent builders to locate the fittings so they match holes to a 
zero slop fit.  Even a single aircraft requires having the fittings 
bolted together and then attached to the spar for that kind of 
fit.  These are not Fords or Buicks that have interchangeable parts.

Larry Flesner 




KR> . Re: Wing Attach Fitting questions (Chris Kinnaman)

2016-01-25 Thread Adam
I highly recommend against welding the WAFs.  You will change the Temper of the 
4130 steel. You need not worry about the strength of the WAFs, they will 
outlast the spars. In strength and time. The connection between the sets are 
shear load. (Not friction). 
If you will insert a cotter pin through the retaining nut or safety wire, you 
can set and forget. 

Adam Tippin
A&P KR2S builder

> On Jan 25, 2016, at 2:12 PM, Frank Hamelly via KRnet  list.krnet.org> wrote:
> 
> Chris, I was lying in bed last night wondering about the integrity of the
> WAFs myself.  Those four little bolts are all there is between flying and a
> wing ripping off, especially under heavy G.  Has anyone ever welded the
> inner and outer WAF fittings after assembly 'just in case' or would that
> impose unwanted stresses on them?
> 
> Frank
> 
>> On Mon, Jan 25, 2016 at 12:00 PM,  wrote:
>> 
>> Send KRnet mailing list submissions to
>>krnet at list.krnet.org
>> 
>> To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
>>http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org
>> or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
>>krnet-request at list.krnet.org
>> 
>> You can reach the person managing the list at
>>krnet-owner at list.krnet.org
>> 
>> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
>> than "Re: Contents of KRnet digest..."
>> 
>> 
>> Today's Topics:
>> 
>>   1.  Wing Attach Fitting questions (Dave Acklam)
>>   2.  VW engines (Oscar Zuniga)
>>   3. Re:  Wing Attach Fitting questions (Chris Kinnaman)
>>   4. Re:  clean workshop (Paul)
>>   5. Re:  Manifold vacuum (S)
>>   6. Re:  Manifold vacuum (Gary Hinkle)
>>   7. Re:  Manifold vacuum (Jeff Scott)
>>   8. Re:  Manifold vacuum (Nerobro)
>>   9. Re:  Manifold vacuum (Dave Acklam)
>>  10. Re:  Manifold vacuum (Randall Smith)
>>  11. Re:  Manifold vacuum (david)
>> 
>> 
>> --
>> 
>> Message: 1
>> Date: Sun, 24 Jan 2016 10:35:43 -0800
>> From: Dave Acklam 
>> To: KRnet 
>> Subject: KR> Wing Attach Fitting questions
>> Message-ID:
>><
>> CAAeYjfhsT9eKvgaXChTheActKHPncM29UmT2Raq7xwWGxo14AQ at mail.gmail.com>
>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8
>> 
>> Ok...
>> 
>> Since some folks here have a much better understanding of the 'design'
>> behind the WAFs than I do...
>> 
>> I'm not an engineer, and I don't want to die... So further experience would
>> probably help
>> 
>> Some questions:
>> 
>> 1) What is the key force or mechanisim providing strength to the WAF joint?
>> Is it the clamping pressure imparted by the bolts? The shaft of the bolt
>> itself?
>> 
>> 2)  Is there a preferred method to 'adjust' a set of wing fittings that
>> were drilled wrong? Would welding up the hole & re-drilling work? Bushings?
>> Just make a new set?
>> 
>> Any other info would be useful.
>> 
>> I'm trying to mate wings from another KR, that I bought, to mine...
>> 
>> 
>> --
>> 
>> Message: 2
>> Date: Sun, 24 Jan 2016 11:08:12 -0800
>> From: Oscar Zuniga 
>> To: "krnet at list.krnet.org" 
>> Subject: KR> VW engines
>> Message-ID: 
>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
>> 
>> I've been looking for pictures and a writeup on a beautiful KR with a Type
>> 4 that was built by a Florida medical guy.  As I recall, it won some awards
>> at Sun 'n' Fun and may have won a 'Best Engine' at a KR Gathering.  I
>> believe the builder sold it and he may have died since then too, but I may
>> also be getting my stories mixed up.  Anyway, studying pictures of that
>> firewall forward would be informative.
>> Oscar ZunigaMedford, OR
>> 
>> 
>> --
>> 
>> Message: 3
>> Date: Sun, 24 Jan 2016 12:49:08 -0700
>> From: Chris Kinnaman 
>> To: KRnet 
>> Subject: Re: KR> Wing Attach Fitting questions
>> Message-ID: <56A52AB4.5070809 at spinn.net>
>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
>> 
>> If you have mismatched hole locations between the WAFs and the spar,
>> first determine if the wing fittings were actually drilled wrong. If the
>> hole diameters are within limits and fit the bolts without play, setback
>> of hole from the edge of the WAF is adequate, and they match one spar,
>> either the center section or the outer panels, you could glue
>> tight-fitting dowels into the unmatched spar's fitting holes and
>> carefully re-drill new fitting holes which match the WAF hole locations.
>> Clamping pressure is not considered when engineering this type of bolted
>> joint, it's the shaft of the bolt in shear in this case which bears the
>> loads.
>> 
>> Chris
>> 
>>> On 1/24/2016 11:35 AM, Dave Acklam via KRnet wrote:
>>> Ok...
>>> 
>>> Since some folks here have a much better understanding of the 'design'
>>> behind the WAFs than I do...
>>> 
>>> I'm not an engineer, and I don't want to die... So further experience
>> would
>>> probably help
>>> 
>>> Some questions:
>>> 
>>> 1) Wh

KR> Wing Attach Fittings (et-al)

2016-01-25 Thread Dave Acklam
Thanks for all the replies

I now get what everyone means by 'shear joint', and that one should NOT
weld anything unless you want to go through a whole hell-of-a-lot of extra
work fixing the metallurgy of the resulting part.

So far, the choices everyone has posted seem to boil down to:

1) Make new WAFs for one side using same-thickness strips of 4130, using
the old ones as a template, then drill the main bolt-hole for the
pin/attach-bolt based on where everything lines up.

2) Move the WAFs around on the spar, using dowels to plug the old bolt
holes.

My WAFs aren't really 'off' on the spar (both my old spar & my new wings
are fully complete right now - the wings were slightly damaged in transit
but nothing irreparable), and the holes appear to be the right diameter.

So it would seem that making 'new ones' from strip steel would be the best
choice, although I am open to more ideas.


KR> Wing Attach Fitting questions

2016-01-25 Thread Dave Acklam
My mismatch is at the 'big' central bolt-hole where the top wing WAFs
attach to the top fuselage WAFs


KR> Wing Attach Fitting questions

2016-01-25 Thread Flesner
At 06:15 PM 1/25/2016, you wrote:
>My mismatch is at the 'big' central bolt-hole where the top wing WAFs
>attach to the top fuselage WAFs


I think I'd elect to fix wing damage rather then working on WAF's.  A 
whole lot less critical and probably easier as long as no spar 
damage.  We're talking foam and fiberglass instead  of critical 
structure.  Just saying

Larry Flesner 




KR> Wing Attach Fitting questions

2016-01-25 Thread Dave Acklam
The original wings are questionable, with big spar 'bumps' in the airfoils
(looks like foam and glass 'settled' while curing), some large
delam/unwetted-glass spots, and a nice thick coat of housepaint over it
all...

I can fix them, but its almost bad enough to scrap everything but the spars
themselves

Depending on how much peeling housepaint is hiding glass damage
On Jan 25, 2016 4:23 PM, "Flesner via KRnet"  wrote:

> At 06:15 PM 1/25/2016, you wrote:
>
>> My mismatch is at the 'big' central bolt-hole where the top wing WAFs
>> attach to the top fuselage WAFs
>>
> 
>
> I think I'd elect to fix wing damage rather then working on WAF's.  A
> whole lot less critical and probably easier as long as no spar damage.
> We're talking foam and fiberglass instead  of critical structure.  Just
> saying
>
> Larry Flesner
>
> ___
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> options
>


KR> Manifold vacuum

2016-01-25 Thread Mark Wegmet
I encountered an interesting 'option' on a car a bought that I had "doubts"
about - electric power steering. The pump is driven by an electric motor
powered by the electrical system (battery) and has always worked, although
the car is relatively new. Why not tie the vacuum pump into the electrical
system? You may be able to tie in a low draw motor and rotary pump to drive
the vacuum gages/instruments - most that I've seen don't need a lot of
vacuum, so why not?

-Original Message-
From: KRnet [mailto:krnet-bounces at list.krnet.org] On Behalf Of Nerobro via
KRnet
Sent: Monday, January 25, 2016 10:17 AM
To: KRnet
Cc: Nerobro
Subject: Re: KR> Manifold vacuum

<--- not a pilot...Yet...

Manifold vacuum isn't something I'd depend on.  As engine load goes up,
manifold vacuum goes down.  I'd worry about instruments getting good vacuum
on climbout.  If the engine cuts out, your manifold vacuum will drop as well
(even if the prop windmills).  Using exhaust to produce vacuum is
interesting too, I bet it would work, but I doubt you'd get good vacuum with
the engine windmilling.

I suppose i'm making the argument for a vacuum horn, or an engine driven
vacuum pump, and am assuming the engine will windmill.

On Mon, Jan 25, 2016 at 9:55 AM, Jeff Scott via KRnet 
wrote:

>
> ___
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> options
>
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KR> Manifold vacuum

2016-01-25 Thread Dave Acklam
Pretty much any diesel vehicle has some sort of vac pump... After all they
never have manifold vacuum.
On Jan 25, 2016 9:32 AM, "tinyauto--- via KRnet" 
wrote:

>
> Looks like VW/Audi and Volvo had there pumps also.  Not all are what I
> could call cheap.  Quick look at ebay has new piston pump style ones at
> $200-$300ish and the rotary style European car style ones are used for
> $25-$75ish.  I don't know what the specs are on each of these, but
> interesting to know such a device exists.
>
> Kevin Golden
> Streak Shadow, etc.
> Harrisonville, MO
>
>
>
> -Original Message-
> From: david via KRnet 
> To: KRnet 
> Cc: david 
> Sent: Mon, Jan 25, 2016 10:54 am
> Subject: Re: KR> Manifold vacuum
>
> The electric vacuum pumps (for the brakes) from the mid-90's 'Vettes are
> about the best out there.  I put one on my Mustang II.  Very durable.
> Not too expensive.
>
> David M.
>
>
>
>
> On 01/25/2016 10:41 AM, Dave Acklam via KRnet wrote:
> > Use 12v vac pump??
> >
> > Manifold pressure isn't a constant enough source
> > On Jan 25, 2016 4:35 AM, "S via KRnet"  wrote:
> >
> >>> It was a very long time ago.  The engine was a Type 1 VW, and the carb
> >> was
> >>> probably a POSA.  If there was any mixture control, it had to be
> manual.
> >>>
> >> Thank you Dan !
> >> I got a full set of vaccum instruments from a very friendly aircraft
> >> mechanic and I am exploring the best way to supply them, preferably
> without
> >> the use of draggy and icing-prone external venturi.
> >> I may try to use some sort of combined manifold vacuum/exhaust venturi
> to
> >> create enough vacuum in all flight conditions.
> >>
> >> Stefan
> >> s_sbal "at" hotmail.com
> >>
> >> ___
> >> Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search.
> >> To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave at list.krnet.org
> >> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
> >> see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to
> change
> >> options
> >>
> > ___
> > Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search.
> > To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave at list.krnet.org
> > please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
> > see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to
> change options
>
>
> ___
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> options
>
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> options
>


KR> Manifold vacuum

2016-01-25 Thread Gary Hinkle


The theory is good. But it takes too much power to spin a vacuum pump to the 
rpm required to operate in the proper range. The weight of the electric motor 
required to produce enough power to spin a pump, and the amps required, is not 
worth it.?There are electric vacuum pumps on the market for certified aircraft. 
They are used as backup systems to get you on the ground. Heavy, high amps, 
expensive. The only reliable ways to power instruments is venturi, dry or wet 
vacuum pump, or electrical instruments.?I'm an A&P, ex corporate, cargo, 
charter pilot. And I do think outside the box most of the time. Have had my KR2 
going for 20 years.?


Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE smartphone

 Original message 
From: Mark Wegmet via KRnet  
List-Post: krnet@list.krnet.org
Date: 01/25/2016  19:39  (GMT-05:00) 
To: 'KRnet'  
Cc: Mark Wegmet  
Subject: Re: KR> Manifold vacuum 

I encountered an interesting 'option' on a car a bought that I had "doubts"
about - electric power steering. The pump is driven by an electric motor
powered by the electrical system (battery) and has always worked, although
the car is relatively new. Why not tie the vacuum pump into the electrical
system? You may be able to tie in a low draw motor and rotary pump to drive
the vacuum gages/instruments - most that I've seen don't need a lot of
vacuum, so why not?

-Original Message-
From: KRnet [mailto:krnet-bounces at list.krnet.org] On Behalf Of Nerobro via
KRnet
Sent: Monday, January 25, 2016 10:17 AM
To: KRnet
Cc: Nerobro
Subject: Re: KR> Manifold vacuum

<--- not a pilot...??? Yet...

Manifold vacuum isn't something I'd depend on.? As engine load goes up,
manifold vacuum goes down.? I'd worry about instruments getting good vacuum
on climbout.? If the engine cuts out, your manifold vacuum will drop as well
(even if the prop windmills).? Using exhaust to produce vacuum is
interesting too, I bet it would work, but I doubt you'd get good vacuum with
the engine windmilling.

I suppose i'm making the argument for a vacuum horn, or an engine driven
vacuum pump, and am assuming the engine will windmill.

On Mon, Jan 25, 2016 at 9:55 AM, Jeff Scott via KRnet 
wrote:

>
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search.
> To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to 
> KRnet-leave at list.krnet.org please see other KRnet info at 
> http://www.krnet.org/info.html see 
> http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to change 
> options
>
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KR> Wing Attach Fitting questions

2016-01-25 Thread Mark Langford
Dave Acklam wrote:

 > My mismatch is at the 'big' central bolt-hole where the top wing WAFs
 > attach to the top fuselage WAFs

My bad...I apparently missed that detail.  Then yes, I'd just make a new 
set of WAFs also.  Although you can stress relieve 4130 after welding 
with a torch, to be sure it's as good as new 4130 plate, you need a 
"certified" welder, checked for incomplete penetration with radiographic 
inspection.  New holes in new material is the way I'd do probably do it. 
  It's a lot easier and cheaper.

But just to throw another curve ball, given the amount of "extra" 
material around those holes, if the next larger diameter bolt would 
work, there's always match drilling to use the next size larger bolt, or 
even two sizes.  Now that I think about it, that's exactly what I'd do 
if it were mine.

Mark Langford
ML at N56ML.com
http://www.n56ml.com




KR> Manifold vacuum

2016-01-25 Thread brian.kraut at eamanufacturing.com
Or go the obvious route and get a small low cost EFIS and sell your
vacuum instruments to someone with a certified plane, love for round
gauges, or fear of new technology.


 Original Message 
Subject: Re: KR> Manifold vacuum
From: Gary Hinkle via KRnet 
List-Post: krnet@list.krnet.org
Date: Mon, January 25, 2016 7:22 pm
To: KRnet 
Cc: Gary Hinkle 



The theory is good. But it takes too much power to spin a vacuum pump to
the rpm required to operate in the proper range. The weight of the
electric motor required to produce enough power to spin a pump, and the
amps required, is not worth it. There are electric vacuum pumps on the
market for certified aircraft. They are used as backup systems to get
you on the ground. Heavy, high amps, expensive. The only reliable ways
to power instruments is venturi, dry or wet vacuum pump, or electrical
instruments. I'm an A&P, ex corporate, cargo, charter pilot. And I do
think outside the box most of the time. Have had my KR2 going for 20
years. 


Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE smartphone

 Original message 
From: Mark Wegmet via KRnet  
List-Post: krnet@list.krnet.org
Date: 01/25/2016 19:39 (GMT-05:00) 
To: 'KRnet'  
Cc: Mark Wegmet  
Subject: Re: KR> Manifold vacuum 

I encountered an interesting 'option' on a car a bought that I had
"doubts"
about - electric power steering. The pump is driven by an electric motor
powered by the electrical system (battery) and has always worked,
although
the car is relatively new. Why not tie the vacuum pump into the
electrical
system? You may be able to tie in a low draw motor and rotary pump to
drive
the vacuum gages/instruments - most that I've seen don't need a lot of
vacuum, so why not?

-Original Message-
From: KRnet [mailto:krnet-bounces at list.krnet.org] On Behalf Of Nerobro
via
KRnet
Sent: Monday, January 25, 2016 10:17 AM
To: KRnet
Cc: Nerobro
Subject: Re: KR> Manifold vacuum

<--- not a pilot...Yet...

Manifold vacuum isn't something I'd depend on.  As engine load goes up,
manifold vacuum goes down.  I'd worry about instruments getting good
vacuum
on climbout.  If the engine cuts out, your manifold vacuum will drop as
well
(even if the prop windmills).  Using exhaust to produce vacuum is
interesting too, I bet it would work, but I doubt you'd get good vacuum
with
the engine windmilling.

I suppose i'm making the argument for a vacuum horn, or an engine driven
vacuum pump, and am assuming the engine will windmill.

On Mon, Jan 25, 2016 at 9:55 AM, Jeff Scott via KRnet
>
wrote:

>
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search.
> To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to 
> KRnet-leave at list.krnet.org please see other KRnet info at 
> http://www.krnet.org/info.html see 
> http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to change 
> options
>
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KR> Wing Attach Fitting questions

2016-01-25 Thread Paul VISK
You can buy a piece one square foot of normalized 4130 from Wicks and they will 
cut it the way you need it. Ask for Keith when you order. He's the one that 
will cut it. He cut my complete set. ?No extra charge. Then I had my son drill 
the holes on his CNC .


Paul ViskBelleville Il618-406-4705

 Original message From: Mark Langford via KRnet  Date: 1/25/2016  10:12 PM  (GMT-05:00) To: KRnet  Cc: Mark Langford  Subject: Re: KR> Wing 
Attach Fitting questions 
Dave Acklam wrote:

 > My mismatch is at the 'big' central bolt-hole where the top wing WAFs
 > attach to the top fuselage WAFs

My bad...I apparently missed that detail.? Then yes, I'd just make a new 
set of WAFs also.? Although you can stress relieve 4130 after welding 
with a torch, to be sure it's as good as new 4130 plate, you need a 
"certified" welder, checked for incomplete penetration with radiographic 
inspection.? New holes in new material is the way I'd do probably do it. 
? It's a lot easier and cheaper.

But just to throw another curve ball, given the amount of "extra" 
material around those holes, if the next larger diameter bolt would 
work, there's always match drilling to use the next size larger bolt, or 
even two sizes.? Now that I think about it, that's exactly what I'd do 
if it were mine.

Mark Langford
ML at N56ML.com
http://www.n56ml.com


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KR> Wing Attach Fitting questions

2016-01-25 Thread Mark Langford
And I should mention that there are gobs of extra material on the main 
WAFs, so oversize bolts will work fine.  The aft WAFs are far tighter, 
and that probably won't work there.

Mark Langford
ML at N56ML.com
http://www.n56ml.com