Re: [MBZ] '90 300D 2.5 transmission modulator adjustment

[Kaleb C. Striplin]

the modulator is on the drivers side, on the side of the tranny right 
above the pan.


OK Don wrote:


I did adjust the VCV - and it made a little bit of difference, but not
a lot. Under WOT - it takes almost a full second to complete a shift
from 1-2 or 2-3.
This the  722.418 transmission - guess I need a technical resource
with where to measure what, etc. I don't think I have a gauge that
will measure 15.6 bar +/-1.0.
If it's where I think it is, the modulator is on top of the tranny on
the passenger side. I think that's where the vacuum line ends. I can
only see the bottom side of it. Don't see how one would make any
adjustments to it with the tranny in place.

On 11/13/05, Marshall Booth <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:


OK Don wrote:


I'm missing something here - I can't find where/how to adjust the
shift hardness on this car.
Chassis - 124.128
Engine - 602.962
Tranny - 722.418

The sifts on this car are softer than I'd like - just short of
flaring. I like a nice crisp shift under WOT.

I don't have the 124 manual, but it looks like this engine is
referenced on the 126 manual that I do have, in the injection system
section. However, if it's right, the adjustment lever must be between
the VCV and the IP - meaning you have to remove it? There is also
mention of rotating the VCV with the throttle at the full open stop
(with the engine running?). You rotate the VCV till you feel
resistance. Does this affect the shifts?

What's the right way to adjust the shifts, and where is it done?


The 722.3/.4 series transmissions for turbodiesels manufactured from the
mid '80 on shifted MUCH more smoothly than all of the previous versions.
That's a feature, NOT a flaw! To increase the firmness of the shifts
beyond what was intended WILL result in premature wear.

I suggest that you measure the pressures and set them to the intended
values (I don't have confirmed settings for your model - 1990+ 124.128 -
the last setting I have are for '89 cars with a 722.418 transmission - a
mod pressure of 3.25 bar and a working pressure of 15.6 bar +/-1.0).

Much of the illusion of soft shifts comes from the high stall speed of
the torque converter used in later turbodiesel cars - much higher
(~20-25%) than the converters used until 1985. With these later
transmissions, the difference in engine speed between the engine driving
the car and the car driving the engine can be more than 600 rpm - the
earlier transmissions (and those for normally aspirated diesels) seldom
vary more than about 100 rpm. I DO prefer that tighter coupling, but
you'd need to re-engineer the torque converter to accomplish that.
Adjusting the shift firmness beyond the factory settings would only
damage the transmission.

Marshall
--
 Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
  "der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '84 190D 2.2 229Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5
turbo 237kmi

___
For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net





--
OK Don, KD5NRO
Norman, OK
'90 300D, '87 300SDL,  '81 240D,  '78 450SLC
The FSM created the Diesel Benz
http://www.venganza.org/

___
For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net





--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D,
 84 250 LWB, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D,
 76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 69 250
Okie Benz Auto parts-email for used parts

Re: [MBZ] http://www.w124performance.com/docs/

[OK Don]

I don't see it there either, but cold engine + high coolant pressure
usually means a cracked head --

On 11/13/05, Christopher McCann <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> I think Dave M posted a link to an article on this  site on the OM603 cold 
> engine/high coolant pressure problem...but I  can't find it...am I in the 
> right place?
>
>   Thanks, Chris

--
OK Don, KD5NRO
Norman, OK
'90 300D, '87 300SDL,  '81 240D,  '78 450SLC
The FSM created the Diesel Benz
http://www.venganza.org/

Re: [MBZ] Iowa tornadoes -- LT. Don?

[LT Don]

Woodward is about 30 miles or so away from us. Deb and I drove over to
Woodward to see the damage there. Really scary -- looks like one square
block was smashed, with houses across the streets untouched, almost as if a
tornado touched down, kicked butt, then picked up and moved on. The Casey's
Store (small gas station and convenience store) had the gas pumps ripped
right off of the concrete -- no idea where they ended up.

I lost two pieces of siding on my house, but that is all. I hear that we had
golf ball size hail here -- we were an hour north picking up some new
contact lenses for me when it all broke loose.

We were passed by a Sheriff on the way home who was going really really
really fast. I was chugging along at 65 mph (speed limit of 55) and it was
like HE was going 70 mph and _I_ was parked by the side of the room. He was
easily into triple digits. Good thing that road is about 5 miles of arrow
straight" between any dips or slight corners.

http://makeashorterlink.com/?C2201272C

http://www.kcci.com/news/5315794/detail.html#

Don


On 11/13/05, Craig McCluskey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> Were you affected by the overnight tornadoes?
>
>
> Craig
>
> ___
> For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
>



--
1977 240D
1972 Honda CB-500K motorcycle

http://www.airamericaradio.com/listen

Re: [MBZ] What about synthetic alternatives?

[Marshall Booth]

Euan wrote:

No, not  the insertables or the inflatables.

In all this recent discussion of synthetic oils, there has been no talk of
the alternatives. In NZ, the only other option is AMSOIL.

Any views on this as an alternative to MOBIL 1?



Mobil supplies all the base oil used in Amsoil. Amsoil is FINE oil. Even 
the tribologists at Mobil commend it. It has a lot of desirable 
qualities - but none that make it better than Mobil 1 in your 
car/engine. If it's the same price - you can use it without any problem. 
I would not pay even a penny more for it!


Marshall
--
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
  "der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '84 190D 2.2 229Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 
turbo 237kmi

Re: [MBZ] FTP sites with manuals

[Christopher McCann]

Right, what are the FTP sites?
  
  thanks, Chris

Marshall Booth <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:  Christopher McCann wrote:
> OK, How do I do that? I need 115, 124 and 126.

I don't know of a 114/115 site online that works. mb.braingears.com 
doesn't have the 114/115 images.

I do suggest http://skinnerbox.steaky.org/Service/Library.html for the 
123/126 images (the 114/115 and 201s don't work) although it is 
sometimes VERY slow and occasionally down. Using IE results in fewer 
problems.

Downloading the CD from one of the ftp sites IS a superior solution.

Marshall
-- 
   Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
   "der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '84 190D 2.2 229Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 
turbo 237kmi

___
For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net




Christopher McCann, Squier Park, Kansas City, Missouri
-2005 Blue Point Siamese, "Rose"
-1987 300TD, 150K, "Rotkäppchen"
-1985 300SD, 209K, "Wulf" 
-1976 240D, ?K, "AKP-Wagen" (Alternativen Kraftstoffs Prüfenlastwagen)
-1972 Jacobsen 21" Turbo Vent
-1971 Case 222 Hydrive, 12HP Kohler, 38" deck, Snowcaster, "One Banger"

-
 Yahoo! FareChase - Search multiple travel sites in one click.  
From [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sun Nov 13 22:42:52 2005
Received: from rwcrmhc11.comcast.net ([216.148.227.117])
by server1.arterytc1.net with esmtp (Exim 4.52) id 1EbQYm-00026A-JZ
for [EMAIL PROTECTED]; Sun, 13 Nov 2005 22:42:52 +
Received: from [192.168.1.3] (c-24-3-195-27.hsd1.pa.comcast.net[24.3.195.27])
by comcast.net (rwcrmhc11) with ESMTP
id <2005111322424901300indcse>; Sun, 13 Nov 2005 22:42:49 +
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Date: Sun, 13 Nov 2005 17:42:54 -0500
From: Marshall Booth <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Organization: University of Pittsburgh School of Medicine
User-Agent: Thunderbird 1.4.1 (Windows/20051006)
MIME-Version: 1.0
To: Mercedes mailing list <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
References: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
In-Reply-To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
X-Antivirus-Scanner: Clean mail though you should still use an Antivirus
Subject: Re: [MBZ] (Sorry) more synthetic oil questions!
X-BeenThere: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
X-Mailman-Version: 2.1.6
Precedence: list
Reply-To: Mercedes mailing list <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
List-Id: Mercedes mailing list 
List-Unsubscribe: , 

List-Archive: 
List-Post: 
List-Help: 
List-Subscribe: , 

X-List-Received-Date: Sun, 13 Nov 2005 22:42:52 -

Euan wrote:
> Hi team
> 
> Thanks for the discussion on synthetic oils and for your patience in
> answering the same questions again and again.
> 
> Down here in the colonies, the only Mobil synthetic oils available are
> 
> Mobil 1  5W-50
> Mobil 1  0W-40
> Mobil 1 10W-30
> Mobil 1 15W-50
> 
> Marshall's recommended Mobil 1 Truck and SUV 5W-40 is not available.
> 
> Being a bear of relatively little engineering brain, my reading of the
> information in both www.whnet.com/4x4/oil.html and www.mobil.co.nz suggests
> that only Mobil 1 5W-50 would be suitable for my 1985 300TD (engine
> 617.912). It meets MB spec 229.3 and does not require a fleece filter
> (whatever that is).
> 
> So, am I correct in assuming that
> 
> (a) this is the oil for me?
> 
> (b) the standard MB oil filter will do the trick?
> 
> (c)  I can expect longer change intervals?
> 
> (d) if yes to (c), I can change the oil and filter every 6000 miles (double
> existing interval) ? 9000 miles (treble)?
> 
> Given that sale-price Mobil 1 5W-50 costs approx $NZ 12.50 per litre -- more
> than twice the price of discounted Shell Helix Diesel ($NZ 5.00 per litre)
> -- I'd have to double the change interval to break even. I suppose the
> saving in filter costs would help ($NZ 30 a filter), and long-term, the
> engine would be better off.
> 
> Any advice would be appreciated.

I would recommend M-1 15W-50. It can be used in any climate in the US 
(temperatures from -30 to +45 C). 5W-50 is an oil we do not have access 
to so I can't offer a personal comment. Most diesel owners have been 
less than enthusiastic about 0W-40. 10W-30 is UNSUITABLE except in VERY, 
VERY cold weather.

Use Mercedes, Mann, Hengst or Knecht filters.

I would expect 6kmi to be a very reasonable (maybe even conservative) 
change interval IF your driving is not entirely short runs with the 
engine never really heating up fully. I would run the Mobil 1 oil for 
5-6kmi for 

[MBZ] What about synthetic alternatives?

[Euan]

No, not  the insertables or the inflatables.

In all this recent discussion of synthetic oils, there has been no talk of
the alternatives. In NZ, the only other option is AMSOIL.

Any views on this as an alternative to MOBIL 1?


Cheers

Euan


1985 300TD 5-spd manual
199K miles

[Shell Helix Diesel Super 15W-40]

1990 Toyota Hilux D/cab 4WD
139K km

[Valvoline Diesel Extra 15W-40]
___

Euan S Kennedy
Christchurch
New Zealand

Phone +64 3 980 5712
Cellphone  027 326 3245
E-mail [EMAIL PROTECTED]

Re: [MBZ] (Sorry) more synthetic oil questions!

[Tom Scordato]

"Marshall's recommended Mobil 1 Truck and SUV 5W-40 is not available."


I have been using the Mobil 1 15-50 "extended service" for over 100K with no 
problems.  I will swith to 5-40 Mobile one next time only because I can now 
get it.


Regards Tom
- Original Message - 
From: "Euan" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Sunday, November 13, 2005 5:15 PM
Subject: [MBZ] (Sorry) more synthetic oil questions!



Hi team

Thanks for the discussion on synthetic oils and for your patience in
answering the same questions again and again.

Down here in the colonies, the only Mobil synthetic oils available are

Mobil 1  5W-50
Mobil 1  0W-40
Mobil 1 10W-30
Mobil 1 15W-50

Marshall's recommended Mobil 1 Truck and SUV 5W-40 is not available.

Being a bear of relatively little engineering brain, my reading of the
information in both www.whnet.com/4x4/oil.html and www.mobil.co.nz 
suggests

that only Mobil 1 5W-50 would be suitable for my 1985 300TD (engine
617.912). It meets MB spec 229.3 and does not require a fleece filter
(whatever that is).

So, am I correct in assuming that

(a) this is the oil for me?

(b) the standard MB oil filter will do the trick?

(c)  I can expect longer change intervals?

(d) if yes to (c), I can change the oil and filter every 6000 miles 
(double

existing interval) ? 9000 miles (treble)?

Given that sale-price Mobil 1 5W-50 costs approx $NZ 12.50 per litre --  
more

than twice the price of discounted Shell Helix Diesel ($NZ 5.00 per litre)
-- I'd have to double the change interval to break even. I suppose the
saving in filter costs would help ($NZ 30 a filter), and long-term, the
engine would be better off.

Any advice would be appreciated.


Euan

1985 300TD 5-spd manual
199K miles

1990 Toyota Hilux D/cab 4WD
139K km
___

Euan S Kennedy
Christchurch 8006
New Zealand

Phone +64 3 980 5712
Cellphone  027 326 3245
E-mail [EMAIL PROTECTED]



___
For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net

Re: [MBZ] FTP sites with manuals

[Marshall Booth]

Christopher McCann wrote:

OK, How do I do that? I need 115, 124 and 126.


I don't know of a 114/115 site online that works. mb.braingears.com 
doesn't have the 114/115 images.


I do suggest http://skinnerbox.steaky.org/Service/Library.html for the 
123/126 images (the 114/115 and 201s don't work) although it is 
sometimes VERY slow and occasionally down. Using IE results in fewer 
problems.


Downloading the CD from one of the ftp sites IS a superior solution.

Marshall
--
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
  "der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '84 190D 2.2 229Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 
turbo 237kmi

[MBZ] (Sorry) more synthetic oil questions!

[Euan]

Hi team

Thanks for the discussion on synthetic oils and for your patience in
answering the same questions again and again.

Down here in the colonies, the only Mobil synthetic oils available are

Mobil 1  5W-50
Mobil 1  0W-40
Mobil 1 10W-30
Mobil 1 15W-50

Marshall's recommended Mobil 1 Truck and SUV 5W-40 is not available.

Being a bear of relatively little engineering brain, my reading of the
information in both www.whnet.com/4x4/oil.html and www.mobil.co.nz suggests
that only Mobil 1 5W-50 would be suitable for my 1985 300TD (engine
617.912). It meets MB spec 229.3 and does not require a fleece filter
(whatever that is).

So, am I correct in assuming that

(a) this is the oil for me?

(b) the standard MB oil filter will do the trick?

(c)  I can expect longer change intervals?

(d) if yes to (c), I can change the oil and filter every 6000 miles (double
existing interval) ? 9000 miles (treble)?

Given that sale-price Mobil 1 5W-50 costs approx $NZ 12.50 per litre -- more
than twice the price of discounted Shell Helix Diesel ($NZ 5.00 per litre)
-- I'd have to double the change interval to break even. I suppose the
saving in filter costs would help ($NZ 30 a filter), and long-term, the
engine would be better off.

Any advice would be appreciated.


Euan

1985 300TD 5-spd manual
199K miles

1990 Toyota Hilux D/cab 4WD
139K km
___

Euan S Kennedy
Christchurch 8006
New Zealand

Phone +64 3 980 5712
Cellphone  027 326 3245
E-mail [EMAIL PROTECTED]

[MBZ] FTP sites with manuals

[Christopher McCann]

OK, How do I do that? I need 115, 124 and 126.
  
  Chris

"Dave M." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:  Chris,

Forget that site if it doesn't work... try this one instead:
http://skinnerbox.steaky.org/Service/Library.html

The Braingears site tries to use the silly Macromedia fluff. All you
need is the PDF files. Or, just download the CD images from one of the
FTP sites that are run by list members. It's not fun trying to run
this manual online... you really need it on your hard drive.

:)

+dm


> --
> Date: Sun, 13 Nov 2005 11:58:34 -0800 (PST)
> From: Christopher McCann 
> Subject: [MBZ] mb.braingears.com
>
>
>  OK, I've tried this site in with Firefox AND IE and it doesn't work. I  can 
> get to all the menus, but cannot pull up a single document. When  people post 
> specific links, I can go to it just fine in Firefox.
>
>  What is wrong? I need full access to this site. Thanks.
>
>  Chris
>
>  P.S. Jason, is there some setting on Firefox that needs tweaked?

___
For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net




Christopher McCann, Squier Park, Kansas City, Missouri
-2005 Blue Point Siamese, "Rose"
-1987 300TD, 150K, "Rotkäppchen"
-1985 300SD, 209K, "Wulf" 
-1976 240D, ?K, "AKP-Wagen" (Alternativen Kraftstoffs Prüfenlastwagen)
-1972 Jacobsen 21" Turbo Vent
-1971 Case 222 Hydrive, 12HP Kohler, 38" deck, Snowcaster, "One Banger"

-
 Yahoo! FareChase - Search multiple travel sites in one click.  
From [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sun Nov 13 21:52:55 2005
Received: from web30012.mail.mud.yahoo.com ([68.142.201.215])
by server1.arterytc1.net with smtp (Exim 4.52) id 1EbPmR-0005oM-KU
for [EMAIL PROTECTED]; Sun, 13 Nov 2005 21:52:55 +
Received: (qmail 18278 invoked by uid 60001); 13 Nov 2005 21:52:50 -
DomainKey-Signature: a=rsa-sha1; q=dns; c=nofws; s=s1024; d=yahoo.com;

h=Message-ID:Received:Date:From:Subject:To:MIME-Version:Content-Type:Content-Transfer-Encoding;

b=o/ftBv6M653J4PlLmyA5lbuKNza6Y5mpBjhDIWAfrqDX3Q+dgaQHW9zXh2mXJ+CKpvV3KKhQ2ocyE0H+gOhsA7jAEzLBD9a0ZyLnc8rruPF8KtBDNS4mTQEebySIRzdGElP+oLfRXjx9CCvLR2xwrOUCk5ValmxgMI3JwxDaBAw=
; 
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Received: from [66.140.70.226] by web30012.mail.mud.yahoo.com via HTTP;
Sun, 13 Nov 2005 13:52:50 PST
Date: Sun, 13 Nov 2005 13:52:50 -0800 (PST)
From: Christopher McCann <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
MIME-Version: 1.0
X-Antivirus-Scanner: Clean mail though you should still use an Antivirus
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit
X-Content-Filtered-By: Mailman/MimeDel 2.1.6
Subject: [MBZ] http://www.w124performance.com/docs/
X-BeenThere: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
X-Mailman-Version: 2.1.6
Precedence: list
Reply-To: Mercedes mailing list <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
List-Id: Mercedes mailing list 
List-Unsubscribe: , 

List-Archive: 
List-Post: 
List-Help: 
List-Subscribe: , 

X-List-Received-Date: Sun, 13 Nov 2005 21:52:56 -

I think Dave M posted a link to an article on this  site on the OM603 cold 
engine/high coolant pressure problem...but I  can't find it...am I in the right 
place?
  
  Thanks, Chris
   


Christopher McCann, Squier Park, Kansas City, Missouri
-2005 Blue Point Siamese, "Rose"
-1987 300TD, 150K, "Rotkäppchen"
-1985 300SD, 209K, "Wulf" 
-1976 240D, ?K, "AKP-Wagen" (Alternativen Kraftstoffs Prüfenlastwagen)
-1972 Jacobsen 21" Turbo Vent
-1971 Case 222 Hydrive, 12HP Kohler, 38" deck, Snowcaster, "One Banger"

-
 Yahoo! FareChase - Search multiple travel sites in one click.  
From [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sun Nov 13 22:04:21 2005
Received: from sccrmhc13.comcast.net ([204.127.202.64])
by server1.arterytc1.net with esmtp (Exim 4.52) id 1EbPxV-000729-5o
for [EMAIL PROTECTED]; Sun, 13 Nov 2005 22:04:21 +
Received: from [192.168.1.3] (c-24-3-195-27.hsd1.pa.comcast.net[24.3.195.27])
by comcast.net (sccrmhc13) with ESMTP
id <20051113220414013003c5s0e>; Sun, 13 Nov 2005 22:04:18 +
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Date: Sun, 13 Nov 2005 17:04:16 -0500
From: Marshall Booth <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Organization: University of Pittsburgh School of Medicine
User-Agent: Thunderbird 1.4.1 (Windows/20051006)
MIME-Version: 1.0
To: Mercedes mailing list <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
References: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
In-Reply-To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
Conte

[MBZ] http://www.pindelski.com/subscribe.htm

[Christopher McCann]

$25/yr to subscribe - does anybody - is it worth it?
  
  Thanks, Chris 
  


Christopher McCann, Squier Park, Kansas City, Missouri
-2005 Blue Point Siamese, "Rose"
-1987 300TD, 150K, "Rotkäppchen"
-1985 300SD, 209K, "Wulf" 
-1976 240D, ?K, "AKP-Wagen" (Alternativen Kraftstoffs Prüfenlastwagen)
-1972 Jacobsen 21" Turbo Vent
-1971 Case 222 Hydrive, 12HP Kohler, 38" deck, Snowcaster, "One Banger"

-
 Yahoo! FareChase - Search multiple travel sites in one click.  
From [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sun Nov 13 21:33:43 2005
Received: from smtp106.sbc.mail.re2.yahoo.com ([68.142.229.99])
by server1.arterytc1.net with smtp (Exim 4.52) id 1EbPTr-00047M-Bt
for [EMAIL PROTECTED]; Sun, 13 Nov 2005 21:33:43 +
Received: (qmail 92629 invoked from network); 13 Nov 2005 21:33:40 -
Received: from unknown (HELO piles) ([EMAIL PROTECTED]@65.65.200.241
with login)
by smtp106.sbc.mail.re2.yahoo.com with SMTP; 13 Nov 2005 21:33:40 -
From: "Mike Piles" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Mercedes mailing list" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>,
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Date: Sun, 13 Nov 2005 15:33:36 -0600
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
MIME-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain;
charset="us-ascii"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
X-Priority: 3 (Normal)
X-MSMail-Priority: Normal
X-Mailer: Microsoft Outlook IMO, Build 9.0.2416 (9.0.2911.0)
In-Reply-To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V6.00.2900.2180
Importance: Normal
X-Antivirus-Scanner: Clean mail though you should still use an Antivirus
Subject: Re: [MBZ] changing to synthetic
X-BeenThere: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
X-Mailman-Version: 2.1.6
Precedence: list
Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED],
Mercedes mailing list <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
List-Id: Mercedes mailing list 
List-Unsubscribe: , 

List-Archive: 
List-Post: 
List-Help: 
List-Subscribe: , 

X-List-Received-Date: Sun, 13 Nov 2005 21:33:43 -

I just took the plunge.  I changed mine to 5w40 Mobil SUV, It's what I use
in the Jetta.

Mike Piles
1985 300SD
2000 VW Jetta TDI

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Marshall Booth
Sent: Sunday, November 13, 2005 1:11 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; Mercedes mailing list
Subject: Re: [MBZ] changing to synthetic


Lee Levitt wrote:
> My mechanic, a Mercedes guy (on the board of the local MB club, etc), is
> strongly resisting my desire to convert my car to synthetic oil. He's
> concerned that all manner of leaks will appear. Generally I trust him on
> things like this...but I'd really like to run synthetic.
>
> I know we've already discussed this...any further thoughts?

You can do as you like or as your mechanic likes - who's in charge?
Mercedes recommends synthetic for ALL of their engines and they DO know
just a bit more about motor cars and engines than your mechanic does!!
If your engine starts to leak, then fix the leaks! Synthetic does NOT
cause leaks and Mobil synthetics slows or seal MOST leaks (after 5-10kmi).

Marshall
--
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
   "der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '84 190D 2.2 229Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5
turbo 237kmi

___
For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net

Re: [MBZ] mb.braingears.com

[Dave M.]

Chris,

Forget that site if it doesn't work... try this one instead:
http://skinnerbox.steaky.org/Service/Library.html

The Braingears site tries to use the silly Macromedia fluff. All you
need is the PDF files. Or, just download the CD images from one of the
FTP sites that are run by list members. It's not fun trying to run
this manual online... you really need it on your hard drive.

:)

+dm


> --
> Date: Sun, 13 Nov 2005 11:58:34 -0800 (PST)
> From: Christopher McCann <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: [MBZ] mb.braingears.com
>
>
> OK, I've tried this site in with Firefox AND IE  and it doesn't work. I can 
> get to all the menus, but cannot pull up a  single document. When people post 
> specific links, I can go to it just  fine in Firefox.
>
>  What is wrong? I need full access to this site. Thanks.
>
>  Chris
>
>  P.S. Jason, is there some setting on Firefox that needs tweaked?

Re: [MBZ] mb.braingears.com

[Christopher McCann]

IE works better than Firefox, but is still far from "everything except some 126 
pages"...do I need to change a in IE?
  
  Thanks, Chris

Marshall Booth <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:  Christopher McCann wrote:
>  OK, I've tried this site in with Firefox AND IE and it doesn't work. I  can 
> get to all the menus, but cannot pull up a single document. When  people post 
> specific links, I can go to it just fine in Firefox.
>   
>   What is wrong? I need full access to this site. Thanks.
>   
>   Chris
>   
>   P.S. Jason, is there some setting on Firefox that needs tweaked?

I have problems with Firefox and braingears. IE works on all of the 
models I've tried (there are a few pages that can't be found on the 126 
site - even on the copy that's on my machine - I think it's a problem in 
Steve's index).

Once I get a to page in IE, I can reach THAT page using Firefox using 
the specific link from IE.

Marshall
-- 
   Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
   "der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '84 190D 2.2 229Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 
turbo 237kmi

___
For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net




Christopher McCann, Squier Park, Kansas City, Missouri
-2005 Blue Point Siamese, "Rose"
-1987 300TD, 150K, "Rotkäppchen"
-1985 300SD, 209K, "Wulf" 
-1976 240D, ?K, "AKP-Wagen" (Alternativen Kraftstoffs Prüfenlastwagen)
-1972 Jacobsen 21" Turbo Vent
-1971 Case 222 Hydrive, 12HP Kohler, 38" deck, Snowcaster, "One Banger"

-
 Yahoo! FareChase - Search multiple travel sites in one click.  
From [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sun Nov 13 21:27:30 2005
Received: from wproxy.gmail.com ([64.233.184.199])
by server1.arterytc1.net with esmtp (Exim 4.52) id 1EbPNq-0003RB-4g
for [EMAIL PROTECTED]; Sun, 13 Nov 2005 21:27:30 +
Received: by wproxy.gmail.com with SMTP id i28so865226wra
for <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; Sun, 13 Nov 2005 13:27:27 -0800 (PST)
DomainKey-Signature: a=rsa-sha1; q=dns; c=nofws; s=beta; d=gmail.com;

h=received:message-id:date:from:to:subject:cc:mime-version:content-type:content-transfer-encoding:content-disposition;

b=nsFIxb4NJdxFup5/vBOVcidphmwYPXovuZPX0BIL63F85BfhJrcYjUenEqWzGXCp8NETMNoKYhPJtcnvkmH7q/3/Fjq8Eg9TZ0fO7PYrBy0kiHKf5kRMovh0LSGylV/d7BW5MRF4tjBl6KKLgqjKwbdP2JFXua7yx7g634Cc2Dg=
Received: by 10.65.233.6 with SMTP id k6mr4870008qbr;
Sun, 13 Nov 2005 13:27:27 -0800 (PST)
Received: by 10.64.242.14 with HTTP; Sun, 13 Nov 2005 13:27:27 -0800 (PST)
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Date: Sun, 13 Nov 2005 14:27:27 -0700
From: "Dave M." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
MIME-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Content-Disposition: inline
X-Antivirus-Scanner: Clean mail though you should still use an Antivirus
Subject: Re: [MBZ] changing to synthetic
X-BeenThere: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
X-Mailman-Version: 2.1.6
Precedence: list
Reply-To: Mercedes mailing list <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
List-Id: Mercedes mailing list 
List-Unsubscribe: , 

List-Archive: 
List-Post: 
List-Help: 
List-Subscribe: , 

X-List-Received-Date: Sun, 13 Nov 2005 21:27:30 -

Mark,

Compared to regular dino oil, the Rotella Synthetic is better - but
not by a whole lot. Compared to Mobil-1 (especially Delvac-1 or the
Truck & SUV formula), the Rotella is garbage... or as Marshall likes
to conservatively call it, "very ordinary". The Rotella is a cheap
Group III hydrocracked base stock. The Mobil-1 oils are true Group
IV/V synthetics.

The Rotella is OK to use, but change it as often as you'd change dino
oil - don't try extended drain intervals with it.

:-)

Best regards,

Dave M.
(who uses Mobil-1 5W-40 T&SUV formula in all his vehicles)

> --
> Date: Sun, 13 Nov 2005 15:56:45 -0500
> From: L. Mark Finch <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] changing to synthetic
>
>
> My mechanic prefers Rotella T Synthetic to Mobil 1. Is there any
> compelling evidence either way as to whether the Mobil or Shell product
> is superior?
>
> --mf

Re: [MBZ] '90 300D 2.5 transmission modulator adjustment

[OK Don]

I did adjust the VCV - and it made a little bit of difference, but not
a lot. Under WOT - it takes almost a full second to complete a shift
from 1-2 or 2-3.
This the  722.418 transmission - guess I need a technical resource
with where to measure what, etc. I don't think I have a gauge that
will measure 15.6 bar +/-1.0.
If it's where I think it is, the modulator is on top of the tranny on
the passenger side. I think that's where the vacuum line ends. I can
only see the bottom side of it. Don't see how one would make any
adjustments to it with the tranny in place.

On 11/13/05, Marshall Booth <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> OK Don wrote:
> > I'm missing something here - I can't find where/how to adjust the
> > shift hardness on this car.
> > Chassis - 124.128
> > Engine - 602.962
> > Tranny - 722.418
> >
> > The sifts on this car are softer than I'd like - just short of
> > flaring. I like a nice crisp shift under WOT.
> >
> > I don't have the 124 manual, but it looks like this engine is
> > referenced on the 126 manual that I do have, in the injection system
> > section. However, if it's right, the adjustment lever must be between
> > the VCV and the IP - meaning you have to remove it? There is also
> > mention of rotating the VCV with the throttle at the full open stop
> > (with the engine running?). You rotate the VCV till you feel
> > resistance. Does this affect the shifts?
> >
> > What's the right way to adjust the shifts, and where is it done?
>
> The 722.3/.4 series transmissions for turbodiesels manufactured from the
> mid '80 on shifted MUCH more smoothly than all of the previous versions.
> That's a feature, NOT a flaw! To increase the firmness of the shifts
> beyond what was intended WILL result in premature wear.
>
> I suggest that you measure the pressures and set them to the intended
> values (I don't have confirmed settings for your model - 1990+ 124.128 -
> the last setting I have are for '89 cars with a 722.418 transmission - a
> mod pressure of 3.25 bar and a working pressure of 15.6 bar +/-1.0).
>
> Much of the illusion of soft shifts comes from the high stall speed of
> the torque converter used in later turbodiesel cars - much higher
> (~20-25%) than the converters used until 1985. With these later
> transmissions, the difference in engine speed between the engine driving
> the car and the car driving the engine can be more than 600 rpm - the
> earlier transmissions (and those for normally aspirated diesels) seldom
> vary more than about 100 rpm. I DO prefer that tighter coupling, but
> you'd need to re-engineer the torque converter to accomplish that.
> Adjusting the shift firmness beyond the factory settings would only
> damage the transmission.
>
> Marshall
> --
>   Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
>"der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> '87 300TD 182Kmi, '84 190D 2.2 229Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5
> turbo 237kmi
>
> ___
> For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
>


--
OK Don, KD5NRO
Norman, OK
'90 300D, '87 300SDL,  '81 240D,  '78 450SLC
The FSM created the Diesel Benz
http://www.venganza.org/

Re: [MBZ] water wetter

[Christopher McCann]

good idea. will do, thanks, Marshall.
  
  Chris

Marshall Booth <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:  Christopher McCann wrote:
> Picked up a few bottles, mainly for the 603 in the 300TD, but figured it 
> can't hurt the 300SD, so will put in there too.
>   
>  Since there is no cap on the radiator, but only on "reserve/overflow"  tank, 
> do you think it's OK to take 12 oz of 50/50 out of the over flow  tank, add 
> the bottle of water wetter and just let it slowly mix by  convection and 
> raising/lowering of the coolant level in the over flow  tank? Ideally it 
> would be added when coolant is flushed and  replenished, but that's a ways 
> off for both cars.
>   

That will work (it will eventually be completely mixed), but I'd remove 
more (from the radiator drain) and then add all but 12 oz back after the 
Water Wetter is added.

Marshall
-- 
   Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
   "der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '84 190D 2.2 229Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 
turbo 237kmi

___
For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net




Christopher McCann, Squier Park, Kansas City, Missouri
-2005 Blue Point Siamese, "Rose"
-1987 300TD, 150K, "Rotkäppchen"
-1985 300SD, 209K, "Wulf" 
-1976 240D, ?K, "AKP-Wagen" (Alternativen Kraftstoffs Prüfenlastwagen)
-1972 Jacobsen 21" Turbo Vent
-1971 Case 222 Hydrive, 12HP Kohler, 38" deck, Snowcaster, "One Banger"

-
 Yahoo! FareChase - Search multiple travel sites in one click.  
From [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sun Nov 13 20:51:34 2005
Received: from web30006.mail.mud.yahoo.com ([68.142.200.69])
by server1.arterytc1.net with smtp (Exim 4.52) id 1EbOp4-T4-6s
for [EMAIL PROTECTED]; Sun, 13 Nov 2005 20:51:34 +
Received: (qmail 49119 invoked by uid 60001); 13 Nov 2005 20:51:32 -
DomainKey-Signature: a=rsa-sha1; q=dns; c=nofws; s=s1024; d=yahoo.com;

h=Message-ID:Received:Date:From:Subject:To:MIME-Version:Content-Type:Content-Transfer-Encoding;

b=eDvHAtTxjDkh8rO8nTkApHR9SUjcIw1YC985eY04lSlWeQxQCFWfFNOD7I+LJUEXF2VZ/fQP4aVuE9H7OdnPpTOEEkhmv6EK5Oze0dq+SZw5VcuV3U4kVsmCwdX4etiTWZmp/oKXt7QmQGpNqZwh42TCJkYXcylav2vTa8UK0ys=
; 
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Received: from [66.140.70.226] by web30006.mail.mud.yahoo.com via HTTP;
Sun, 13 Nov 2005 12:51:31 PST
Date: Sun, 13 Nov 2005 12:51:31 -0800 (PST)
From: Christopher McCann <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
MIME-Version: 1.0
X-Antivirus-Scanner: Clean mail though you should still use an Antivirus
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit
X-Content-Filtered-By: Mailman/MimeDel 2.1.6
Subject: [MBZ] EGR Blocking kit sign up - ACHTUNG!
X-BeenThere: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
X-Mailman-Version: 2.1.6
Precedence: list
Reply-To: Mercedes mailing list <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
List-Id: Mercedes mailing list 
List-Unsubscribe: , 

List-Archive: 
List-Post: 
List-Help: 
List-Subscribe: , 

X-List-Received-Date: Sun, 13 Nov 2005 20:51:34 -

I went to the link, signed up for the forum and privately e-mailed my order to 
Brian Carlton. 

  IF ANYONE ELSE IS INTERESTED, please do the same...looks like we are at  
about 25 kits and how does them in batches of 30...you won't be on the  list 
unless you contact him as I have above.
  
  Thanks, Chris

Harry Watkins <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:  Chris
   
  My apologies for hiding the link, it was shoved to   the bottom of my reply.  
   
  To get on the list for EGR kits, go to this   site:
   
  
http://www.mercedesshop.com/shopforum/showthread.php3?p=1010792&posted=1#post1010792
   
  Brian Carlton makes the kits and if you go to post   #32 you will see what is 
provided.
   
  If I take your orders, I'll tack on my fee and   the kits will cost you about 
$3,750 each, not worth it IMHO. :-)
   
  Sorry for the misunderstanding.
   
  Harry Watkins
Newton, MS
86 SDL Silver
85   300D Euro
86 SDL Gold
81 240D manual trans

  - Original Message - 
From: Christopher McCann 
To: Harry Watkins ; Mercedes mailing list 
Sent: Friday, November 11, 2005 11:00 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] valve adjust & EGR awfullness


I need one for a 603 and 617.

I will talk to my friends and am almost certain that we will take, in 
addition, 3   more for a 617.

do 616's have EGR's? don't think they do...if so, we'll be adding another 3.

Please let me know on the 616 and I w

Re: [MBZ] water wetter

[Marshall Booth]

Christopher McCann wrote:

Picked up a few bottles, mainly for the 603 in the 300TD, but figured it can't 
hurt the 300SD, so will put in there too.
  
  Since there is no cap on the radiator, but only on "reserve/overflow"  tank, do you think it's OK to take 12 oz of 50/50 out of the over flow  tank, add the bottle of water wetter and just let it slowly mix by  convection and raising/lowering of the coolant level in the over flow  tank? Ideally it would be added when coolant is flushed and  replenished, but that's a ways off for both cars.
  


That will work (it will eventually be completely mixed), but I'd remove 
more (from the radiator drain) and then add all but 12 oz back after the 
Water Wetter is added.


Marshall
--
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
  "der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '84 190D 2.2 229Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 
turbo 237kmi

Re: [MBZ] mb.braingears.com

[Marshall Booth]

Christopher McCann wrote:

OK, I've tried this site in with Firefox AND IE  and it doesn't work. I can get 
to all the menus, but cannot pull up a  single document. When people post 
specific links, I can go to it just  fine in Firefox.
  
  What is wrong? I need full access to this site. Thanks.
  
  Chris
  
  P.S. Jason, is there some setting on Firefox that needs tweaked?


I have problems with Firefox and braingears. IE works on all of the 
models I've tried (there are a few pages that can't be found on the 126 
site - even on the copy that's on my machine - I think it's a problem in 
Steve's index).


Once I get a to page in IE, I can reach THAT page using Firefox using 
the specific link from IE.


Marshall
--
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
  "der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '84 190D 2.2 229Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 
turbo 237kmi

[MBZ] mb.braingears.com

[Christopher McCann]

OK, I've tried this site in with Firefox AND IE  and it doesn't work. I can get 
to all the menus, but cannot pull up a  single document. When people post 
specific links, I can go to it just  fine in Firefox.
  
  What is wrong? I need full access to this site. Thanks.
  
  Chris
  
  P.S. Jason, is there some setting on Firefox that needs tweaked?
  


Christopher McCann, Squier Park, Kansas City, Missouri
-2005 Blue Point Siamese, "Rose"
-1987 300TD, 150K, "Rotkäppchen"
-1985 300SD, 209K, "Wulf" 
-1976 240D, ?K, "AKP-Wagen" (Alternativen Kraftstoffs Prüfenlastwagen)
-1972 Jacobsen 21" Turbo Vent
-1971 Case 222 Hydrive, 12HP Kohler, 38" deck, Snowcaster, "One Banger"

-
 Yahoo! FareChase - Search multiple travel sites in one click.  
From [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sun Nov 13 20:04:52 2005
Received: from web30001.mail.mud.yahoo.com ([68.142.200.64])
by server1.arterytc1.net with smtp (Exim 4.52) id 1EbO5s-000549-O1
for [EMAIL PROTECTED]; Sun, 13 Nov 2005 20:04:52 +
Received: (qmail 9262 invoked by uid 60001); 13 Nov 2005 20:04:45 -
DomainKey-Signature: a=rsa-sha1; q=dns; c=nofws; s=s1024; d=yahoo.com;

h=Message-ID:Received:Date:From:Subject:To:In-Reply-To:MIME-Version:Content-Type:Content-Transfer-Encoding;

b=gvBMTNrSlMOLK7mvAKCor66LHJODW/2arlTvE2AV26eX5sYRv8quTrZhUg5yt5tA0k0401AvpdKxoB0AhIr5cAc6XETY43z7ZFPf6hn0lY1/tlwftr12GbF8jdsUg6GRQaahLlDVuFWgn/b9loV0pdmg5VEB7kz+JPwB57H+OKQ=
; 
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Received: from [66.140.70.226] by web30001.mail.mud.yahoo.com via HTTP;
Sun, 13 Nov 2005 12:04:45 PST
Date: Sun, 13 Nov 2005 12:04:45 -0800 (PST)
From: Christopher McCann <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: Alex Chamberlain <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>,
Mercedes mailing list <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
In-Reply-To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
MIME-Version: 1.0
X-Antivirus-Scanner: Clean mail though you should still use an Antivirus
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit
X-Content-Filtered-By: Mailman/MimeDel 2.1.6
Subject: Re: [MBZ] haynes/chiltons/? manual for 87 300TD?
X-BeenThere: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
X-Mailman-Version: 2.1.6
Precedence: list
Reply-To: Mercedes mailing list <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
List-Id: Mercedes mailing list 
List-Unsubscribe: , 

List-Archive: 
List-Post: 
List-Help: 
List-Subscribe: , 

X-List-Received-Date: Sun, 13 Nov 2005 20:04:52 -

think I just fouind it in an ad in The Star...cool. Thanks
  
  Chris

Alex Chamberlain <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:  He's asking for a 124 manual.  
There's a British Haynes manual that is
officially unavailable in the US, but sometimes shows up on eBay.  I
have one.  It is no substitute for the FSM CDs, but there are a few
times I've been glad I have it---e.g. the instructions for removing an
inner door panel and replacing a window regulator are terrific.

On 9/27/05, LT Don  wrote:
> Dude, I have one sitting in my lap right now that covers "Coupes / Sedans /
> Wagons 1974 - 84 Repair Manual." Want to play Let's Make A Deal?
>
> On 9/27/05, Christopher McCann  wrote:
> >
> > Doesn't seem to exist...or is it bunched in with other
> > models that would not have shown up on a search.
> >
> > If it doesn't that makes it 0 for 3. Nothing in print
> > for 85 300SD, 76 240D (W115) and now?
> >

Alex Chamberlain
'87 300D

___
For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net




Christopher McCann, Squier Park, Kansas City, Missouri
-2005 Blue Point Siamese, "Rose"
-1987 300TD, 150K, "Rotkäppchen"
-1985 300SD, 209K, "Wulf" 
-1976 240D, ?K, "AKP-Wagen" (Alternativen Kraftstoffs Prüfenlastwagen)
-1972 Jacobsen 21" Turbo Vent
-1971 Case 222 Hydrive, 12HP Kohler, 38" deck, Snowcaster, "One Banger"

-
 Yahoo! FareChase - Search multiple travel sites in one click.  
From [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sun Nov 13 20:14:19 2005
Received: from web30003.mail.mud.yahoo.com ([68.142.200.66])
by server1.arterytc1.net with smtp (Exim 4.52) id 1EbOF1-0005kp-Po
for [EMAIL PROTECTED]; Sun, 13 Nov 2005 20:14:19 +
Received: (qmail 83589 invoked by uid 60001); 13 Nov 2005 20:14:15 -
DomainKey-Signature: a=rsa-sha1; q=dns; c=nofws; s=s1024; d=yahoo.com;

h=Message-ID:Received:Date:From:Subject:To:In-Reply-To:MIME-Version:Content-Type:Content-Transfer-Encoding;

b=NY1bqvH6x8b2vk15dyOvnSzvNUT1JvvRJRZgN4p/ujlIjp6p+fiZOjCP9ge8XMGy0Aa2L38f6sLM/JPL/KwfNmvuAwiMVxHHQrif6k9GFRMsvqwlVl7xo9159dGGTbKS/aMGATvidebzAP

Re: [MBZ] G Class to continue

[Christopher McCann]

The Star did a rather devastating review of the  new G-Wagens compared to the 
earlier 80's versions. I scanned the  review, but from what I saw, it makes 
sense...more fluff, less  substance = identity crisis for the G-Wagen. 
Galendewagen means 'cross  country vehicle' not 'suburban conspicuous 
consumption vehicle'. Ditch  the heated seats, integrated garage door, 98 
position seat adjustment,  57 zone climate control crap and make a REAL cross 
country vehicle,  like they used to. MB is totally out of touch on this one.
  
  Chris
  

Alex Chamberlain <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:  Lots of cheap early-'80s G-wagens 
on ebay.de.  If >=25 years old, they
no longer need to pass EPA and NHTSA to be imported.  Flights to
Europe are cheap---go over there, find a good one, ship it back---it'd
still be cheaper, all told, than a used one that's already here, let
alone a new one.

Alex Chamberlain
'87 300D Turbo

On 11/12/05, TimothyPilgrim  wrote:
> Good news!
>
> Now all I need is a second income to afford one.
>
> Tim
> 1982 300TD Moby
>
> On 11/12/05, George Gregory  wrote:
> > Mercedes To Continue Producing G-Class
>
> ___

___
For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net




Christopher McCann, Squier Park, Kansas City, Missouri
-2005 Blue Point Siamese, "Rose"
-1987 300TD, 150K, "Rotkäppchen"
-1985 300SD, 209K, "Wulf" 
-1976 240D, ?K, "AKP-Wagen" (Alternativen Kraftstoffs Prüfenlastwagen)
-1972 Jacobsen 21" Turbo Vent
-1971 Case 222 Hydrive, 12HP Kohler, 38" deck, Snowcaster, "One Banger"

-
 Yahoo! FareChase - Search multiple travel sites in one click.  
From [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sun Nov 13 19:47:50 2005
Received: from rwcrmhc11.comcast.net ([204.127.198.35])
by server1.arterytc1.net with esmtp (Exim 4.52) id 1EbNpO-0003CP-Cr
for [EMAIL PROTECTED]; Sun, 13 Nov 2005 19:47:50 +
Received: from [192.168.1.3] (c-24-3-195-27.hsd1.pa.comcast.net[24.3.195.27])
by comcast.net (rwcrmhc11) with ESMTP
id <2005111319474401300im4dge>; Sun, 13 Nov 2005 19:47:44 +
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Date: Sun, 13 Nov 2005 14:47:49 -0500
From: Marshall Booth <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Organization: University of Pittsburgh School of Medicine
User-Agent: Thunderbird 1.4.1 (Windows/20051006)
MIME-Version: 1.0
To: Mercedes mailing list <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
References: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
In-Reply-To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
X-Antivirus-Scanner: Clean mail though you should still use an Antivirus
Subject: Re: [MBZ] '90 300D 2.5 transmission modulator adjustment
X-BeenThere: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
X-Mailman-Version: 2.1.6
Precedence: list
Reply-To: Mercedes mailing list <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
List-Id: Mercedes mailing list 
List-Unsubscribe: , 

List-Archive: 
List-Post: 
List-Help: 
List-Subscribe: , 

X-List-Received-Date: Sun, 13 Nov 2005 19:47:50 -

OK Don wrote:
> I'm missing something here - I can't find where/how to adjust the
> shift hardness on this car.
> Chassis - 124.128
> Engine - 602.962
> Tranny - 722.418
> 
> The sifts on this car are softer than I'd like - just short of
> flaring. I like a nice crisp shift under WOT.
> 
> I don't have the 124 manual, but it looks like this engine is
> referenced on the 126 manual that I do have, in the injection system
> section. However, if it's right, the adjustment lever must be between
> the VCV and the IP - meaning you have to remove it? There is also
> mention of rotating the VCV with the throttle at the full open stop
> (with the engine running?). You rotate the VCV till you feel
> resistance. Does this affect the shifts?
> 
> What's the right way to adjust the shifts, and where is it done?

The 722.3/.4 series transmissions for turbodiesels manufactured from the 
mid '80 on shifted MUCH more smoothly than all of the previous versions. 
That's a feature, NOT a flaw! To increase the firmness of the shifts 
beyond what was intended WILL result in premature wear.

I suggest that you measure the pressures and set them to the intended 
values (I don't have confirmed settings for your model - 1990+ 124.128 - 
the last setting I have are for '89 cars with a 722.418 transmission - a 
mod pressure of 3.25 bar and a working pressure of 15.6 bar +/-1.0).

Much of the illusion of soft shifts comes from the high stall speed of 
the torque converter used in later turbodiesel cars - much higher 
(~20-25%) t

Re: [MBZ] Woody Wagoneer

[Donald Snook]

Alex wrote:

 

"I'm kind of toying with getting one of these.  Seems like the price of
gas is driving down the used prices of all big SUVs and such."

 

I had two of these. One was a 1979 with the quadra-trac FULL TIME four
wheel drive with a separate granny low. The other was an 88 with the
selectrac (I can't remember what they called it).  I loved them both.
Absolutely the best snow and mud vehicle I have ever driven.  No amount
of snow (in Missouri) could ever stop my Grand Wagoneer. I love those
big suckers. EXCEPT, the gas mileage is AWFUL.  I hated the mileage when
gas was $1.25/gallon.  When I had mine, I once got 14 mpg.  I think it
was a cool day and I was driving down hill the whole time with a tail
wind.  Usually it got 10-11 mpg.

 

When we did get a lot of snow, I was one of the few people who could get
around anywhere.  My mother was a nurse at the local big hospital. I
used to go around picking up the Doctors and Nurses who could not make
it in. I also kept a tow chain in the car when I drove around in the
snow.  I remember seeing a tow truck that got stuck trying to pull a 4X4
Suburban out.  I hooked up the chain and pulled the tow truck out (I
finally got to use the granny low!) and then pulled the Suburban out.
WOW! What a great truck.  

 

If you are serious about these vehicles be warned because if you do need
parts, you will be going to Dodge, Ford, and Chevy to get everything you
need. The 88's were better than the older ones, but they do have dodge
engines, Ford electrics, Ford differentials and various and sundry other
manufacturers for everything else. 

 

If this was any closer (and I owned a gas station) I would buy it. 

   

 

Donald H. Snook

McDonald, Tinker, Skaer, Quinn & Herrington, P.A. 

300 West Douglas

P.O. Box 207

Wichita, Kansas 67201 0207

Tel. (316) 263-5851

This confidential message may be subject to the attorney-client
privilege or protected by the attorney work-product doctrine. If you
have recieved this message in error, please delete it and notify me.  

 

Re: [MBZ] '90 300D 2.5 transmission modulator adjustment

[Mitch Haley]

OK Don wrote:
> 
> I suspect that would be a little harder than I'm looking for. I'd like
> it to be like the SDL ---
> I'll try adjusting the VCV "till you feel resistance" and see what happens.

I would warm up the engine, then unhook the vacuum (and plug the source) and
take it for a brief drive. If I liked the way it shifted at full throttle,
I'd then go after the VCV. If I didn't like the zero vac shifting at full
throttle, I'd adjust the modulator before touching the control valve. 
Note: when driving with no vacuum, shifting will be very harsh except at
full throttle.

Re: [MBZ] changing to synthetic

[Marshall Booth]

Lee Levitt wrote:

My mechanic, a Mercedes guy (on the board of the local MB club, etc), is
strongly resisting my desire to convert my car to synthetic oil. He's
concerned that all manner of leaks will appear. Generally I trust him on
things like this...but I'd really like to run synthetic.

I know we've already discussed this...any further thoughts? 


You can do as you like or as your mechanic likes - who's in charge? 
Mercedes recommends synthetic for ALL of their engines and they DO know 
just a bit more about motor cars and engines than your mechanic does!! 
If your engine starts to leak, then fix the leaks! Synthetic does NOT 
cause leaks and Mobil synthetics slows or seal MOST leaks (after 5-10kmi).


Marshall
--
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
  "der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '84 190D 2.2 229Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 
turbo 237kmi

Re: [MBZ] changing to synthetic

[Tom Scordato]

Lee was reported to have said > "My mechanic, a Mercedes guy (on the board 
of the local MB club, etc), is

strongly resisting my desire to convert my car to synthetic oil. He's
concerned that all manner of leaks will appear. Generally I trust him on
things like this...but I'd really like to run synthetic.

I know we've already discussed this...any further thoughts? "


Lee
Same thing a mechanic who only services the  finest cars Europeanin State 
College PA said to me three years ago when I bought my 1977 300D and I knew 
absolutely nothing about these cars.  Like a deer in the headlights I 
brought it in to him.  This guy makes more money than a New York City brain 
surgeon per hour.  "oh you will get leaks"  oh this oh that. Like a dentist 
telling you do not brush with Flouride (so he can fill more cavities). I 
avoid this guy like the latest plague we are gearing up for.  All the 
experts are here on this list.  I tust them more than any mechanic because 
they live and breath this stuff.  They love it.


Speaking from my experience...You have dino/synth. oil that when you compare 
is it is the same weight/sae.  One works better in extreme hot cold 
conditions, holds together better for a longer time, provides better 
protection during cold start ups. It is by a miracle of science and 
industrial production chemicaly and physically superior.   Metal rubbing 
metal, one lube material lasts longer and is better.  It was a no brainer. 
I switched a few months after owning the car.  Never got one leak.  I do 45 
to 55K a year on her mileage wise.  Mobil one, (or Amsoil if you like) 
would not have it any other way. Every 10K change the lube filters, oil and 
while I am at it my fuel filters. I just purchased a 1979 240D four banger 
with 74K original miles . Drove it from Phoenix Az to Bellefonte PA, to get 
the kinks out.  First thing I will do is change it out too. Remember, lube 
oil, lube oil, lube oil.


Now Marshall Both knows the exact scientific reasons, because he has spilt 
more than I know about these fine machines but that is the way this degreed 
engineer sees it. Hope this helps.


Regards
Tom Scordato
Bellefonte PA
- Original Message - 
From: "Lee Levitt" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "'Mercedes mailing list'" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Sunday, November 13, 2005 12:20 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] changing to synthetic




My mechanic, a Mercedes guy (on the board of the local MB club, etc), is
strongly resisting my desire to convert my car to synthetic oil. He's
concerned that all manner of leaks will appear. Generally I trust him on
things like this...but I'd really like to run synthetic.

I know we've already discussed this...any further thoughts?

Thanks!

Lee
'93 300D 2.5L turbo 179K



___
For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net

Re: [MBZ] '90 300D 2.5 transmission modulator adjustment

[OK Don]

Thanks!

On 11/13/05, Hans Neureiter <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Thius is a pretty good article on the MB trannies, how they work and what to
> adjust.
> http://www.continentalimports.com/ser_ic20242.html
>


--
OK Don, KD5NRO
Norman, OK
'90 300D, '87 300SDL,  '81 240D,  '78 450SLC
The FSM created the Diesel Benz
http://www.venganza.org/

Re: [MBZ] changing to synthetic

[Steve MacSween]

[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

> My mechanic, a Mercedes guy (on the board of the local MB club, etc), is
> strongly resisting my desire to convert my car to synthetic oil. He's
> concerned that all manner of leaks will appear. Generally I trust him on
> things like this...but I'd really like to run synthetic.

Well, just to play devil's advocate for a line or two, I guess he has a
point insofar as you have only recently purchased the car and both you and
him have not had a chance to 'monitor' it for any length of time.

Even saying that, however, I think it's probably more 'old-timer' prejudices
against synthetic talking here. Very, very common attitude.

Mobil 1 is highly unlikely to make any leak worse and, as others have
pointed out. If  he is concerned about M-1, you can always go for Delvac.

Another interesting alternative is the high-tech oil Duron XL, a
semi-synthetic produced by Petro-Canada -- according to them, widely
available in the U.S. through bulk dealers. Cheaper than synthetic and with
just about the same pour point qualities. Meets Benz standards, gas and
diesel.

Mac

Re: [MBZ] changing to synthetic

[Mitch Haley]

Lee Levitt wrote:
> 
> My mechanic, a Mercedes guy (on the board of the local MB club, etc), is
> strongly resisting my desire to convert my car to synthetic oil. He's
> concerned that all manner of leaks will appear. Generally I trust him on
> things like this...but I'd really like to run synthetic.

The way I understand it:

The original Mobil One (circa 1975) didn't swell seals, so they tended to shrink
after changeover, causing leaks. Then Mobil went too far with a seal swelling
additive, and they tended to soften too much, causing leaks. In the last 30
years, Mobil has had plenty of time to solve the problem, and now uses the right
amount of the proper seal softener(s). At any rate, I would not expect any new
leaks to pop up, unless your pan has rusted out and the only think holding
the oil in the engine is the sludge.

Re: [MBZ] changing to synthetic

[Lee Levitt]

My mechanic, a Mercedes guy (on the board of the local MB club, etc), is
strongly resisting my desire to convert my car to synthetic oil. He's
concerned that all manner of leaks will appear. Generally I trust him on
things like this...but I'd really like to run synthetic.

I know we've already discussed this...any further thoughts? 

Thanks!

Lee
'93 300D 2.5L turbo 179K

Re: [MBZ] '90 300D 2.5 transmission modulator adjustment

[Hans Neureiter]

Thius is a pretty good article on the MB trannies, how they work and what to
adjust.
http://www.continentalimports.com/ser_ic20242.html

 On 11/13/05, OK Don <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> I suspect that would be a little harder than I'm looking for. I'd like
> it to be like the SDL ---
> I'll try adjusting the VCV "till you feel resistance" and see what
> happens.
>
> On 11/12/05, Kaleb C. Striplin <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> > Well the shifts on that car will be soft, much softer than you are used
> > to. Those things are so complicated vacuum wise Im not aware of the
> > procedure for adjusting it to spec. I suppose you could just yank the
> > line to the tranny and plug it off.
> >
>
>
> --
> OK Don, KD5NRO
> Norman, OK
> '90 300D, '87 300SDL, '81 240D, '78 450SLC
> The FSM created the Diesel Benz
> http://www.venganza.org/
>
> ___
> For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
>



--
Hans Neureiter, Houston, TX
'82 300SD, '95 E300D

Re: [MBZ] '90 300D 2.5 transmission modulator adjustment

[OK Don]

I suspect that would be a little harder than I'm looking for. I'd like
it to be like the SDL ---
I'll try adjusting the VCV "till you feel resistance" and see what happens.

On 11/12/05, Kaleb C. Striplin <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Well the shifts on that car will be soft, much softer than you are used
> to.  Those things are so complicated vacuum wise Im not aware of the
> procedure for adjusting it to spec.  I suppose you could just yank the
> line to the tranny and plug it off.
>


--
OK Don, KD5NRO
Norman, OK
'90 300D, '87 300SDL,  '81 240D,  '78 450SLC
The FSM created the Diesel Benz
http://www.venganza.org/

Re: [MBZ] Mercedes rankes 2nd

[George Gregory]

Not a fair.  The article says "And in evaluating a model's ranking, we only
considered one entry per nameplate: the least efficient one. For example, we
included Mercedes-Benz's line of SL-Class convertibles in the slide show as
some of the least efficient convertibles on the market. But only the SL600
and SL65 AMG convertibles have the terrible mileage you see posted in the
slide show. We did not look at the other, more efficient models within the
SL-Class family in formulating the rankings for this piece."

My SL500 gets 18 city 24 highway
 
___
GG
1997 SL500
http://homepage.mac.com/deneals/SL500.htm

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Hans Neureiter
Sent: Sunday, November 13, 2005 9:47 AM
To: Diesel
Subject: [MBZ] Mercedes rankes 2nd

Mercedes Benz SL600 ranked second worst gas guzzler convertible behind
Ferrari.
http://biz.yahoo.com/weekend/gasguzzler_1.html

--
Hans Neureiter, Houston, TX
'82 300SD, '95 E300D

Re: [MBZ] this weeks OMG

[Nick Wellinghoff]

Ek


-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Kaleb C. Striplin
Sent: Sunday, November 13, 2005 9:59 AM
To: Banned List; Mercedes mailing list
Subject: [MBZ] this weeks OMG

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/77-Mercedes-300D-to-Ford-302-Conversion-Kit_W
0QQitemZ8014547235QQcategoryZ6783QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
-- 
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
  89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D,
  84 250 LWB, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D,
  76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 69 250
Okie Benz Auto parts-email for used parts

___
For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net

[MBZ] Shadetree MB alignment

[Rick Knoble]

Some one was posting about toe setting questions. I found this in my archive...
Rick Knoble
1985 300 CD

- Original Message - 
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
Sent: Sunday, July 17, 2005 6:36 PM
Subject: [MBZ] Re: Mercedes Digest, Vol 2, Issue 102


Or, you could jack up the car and rest it on blocks under the lower control 
arms so the tires are just barely off the ground. Take Juniors sidewalk chalk 
and hold it against the tire tread and rotate the tire to make a chalk stripe 
all the way around. Middle of the tire is nice but either side of middle works 
too. Then take a nail, ball point pen, or something like it and brace it 
against the floor and the tire. Again, rotate the tire to make a line all the 
way around. The ends should meet exactly, if not, start over. I used to do this 
with just a pen line, but then I used to see without bifocals too.

Now take the $5.95 spring loaded shower curtain rod and adjust the length to 
fit firmly in between the tires. If you adjust the length so you push hard and 
grunt when inserting it between the tires, that is exactly 25 pounds. Rotate 
the tires so the rod is in front, and use a small wedge to hold the tires from 
rotating back down.

Take your tape measure and measure carefully from one line to the other in 
front and in back. The difference between the two is the toe. If you adjust the 
tie rod ends to give about 1/16 inch closer in front than in back, you're 
golden. 

Just as our friend says below, you need to keep the steering wheel straight and 
adjust whichever side is out. Simply sighting down the outside of each front 
tire to the rear tire will give you the side which is out. Sometimes both are, 
generally the right/passenger side is the one out of whack. 

If you find that the wheel is just a fraction off center after this process, 
and you don't want to go through all the marking again, just pull the steering 
wheel off and move it one or two notches in the direction needed. 

Not nearly as involved as the below method but it works real well.

Ken


In a message dated 7/17/2005 2:49:02 PM Pacific Daylight Time, [EMAIL 
PROTECTED] writes:
  From: Fmiser <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  Subject: [MBZ] Weekend, shade-tree wheel alignment (long)
  To: Mercedes mailing list <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII

  The tire wear on Helga was getting bad. I didn't want to spend money on
  tires without at least improving the chassis 'cause I don't like to
  throw money away...

  But Helga is a rusty, old beater. I bought it as a parts car - mainly
  for the engine. I've now been driving it for 8 months...

  So I decided I needed to at least _improve_ the alignment, even if I
  couldn't make it "right".

  Oh, and I did it in the garage, not under a shade tree. Do I need to
  change the subject? *smile*

  I have a caster/camber measurement tool. I used it to set both the
  caster and the camber on both wheels. Any adjustments to caster or
  camber will alter the toe in!

  Once I had both the caster and the camber where I wanted it, I started
  to check the toe-in. Well, the way I used to do it worked, but it was
  hard to get the steering wheel straight and it took a lot of effort. I
  figured I could improve the process. 

  I decided to try a Jim Cathey approch. (This is a complement, Jim. You
  seem to have a talent for achieving high-tech results with common tools
  and materials.)

  First, I built a spreader bar. The manual says that  20 - 24 lbs of
  force needs to be applied outward to the leading edge of the wheels.

  Here's how I made my speader bar. I took a threaded rod, a couple of
  nuts, a short piece of 1.5-inch angle iron, and a 2x2x6ft to build it. I
  took the angle iron, marked it for 2 pieces each 1.5 inches long, but I
  did not cut it yet because I wanted to drill the holes while it was big
  and easy to hold on to. Each of the 2 pieces are identical. On one side
  of the angle I drilled a hole big enough for easy clearance for the
  threaded rod. On the other angle, I drill two small holes for dry wall
  screws to attach the angle iron to the 2x2. Once finish, one of the
  angle iron pieces was attached to one end of the 2x2. This one is for
  guidance. I put the threaded rod through the big hole, positioned the
  second angle iron so there would be a reasonable compromise between
  far-apart-for-better-guidance and
  close-together-for-long-adjustment-travel. One nut is on the (inside)
  end to keep the rod from falling out and the other one presses against
  the second angle iron pieces to apply outward force. (It would be better
  if I had a long spring between the nut and the angle iron - but I didn't
  have one on hand) To determine how long the 2x2 needed to be,  I held
  the whole assembly under the car and said "About here." I cut off the
  extra wood and then use a 3-inch piece to act as a foot on the outer end
  of the threaded rod. To do th

[MBZ] this weeks OMG

[Kaleb C. Striplin]

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/77-Mercedes-300D-to-Ford-302-Conversion-Kit_W0QQitemZ8014547235QQcategoryZ6783QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D,
 84 250 LWB, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D,
 76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 69 250
Okie Benz Auto parts-email for used parts

[MBZ] screwed up 560SEL charging system

[Kaleb C. Striplin]

If you all remember from a couple of weeks ago my 560SEL was not 
charging, and non of the instrument cluster lights were coming on when 
the key was turned on and before the engine started.  Well I put another 
alternator on it and it was charging but still no lights.  Anyways, 
yesterday I went to start it and the battery was dead.  Put a different 
battery on it and notice the red battery light stays on when the key is 
turned OFF and goes out when the key is turned on but before the engine 
is started.  Car starts fine with the charged battery but the alternator 
does not appear to be charging like it should(only 12.2 volts or so). 
What the heck is going on with this thing?

--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D,
 84 250 LWB, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D,
 76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 69 250
Okie Benz Auto parts-email for used parts

Re: [MBZ] DIY toe in adjustment

[Harry Watkins]

Mike

Take a look at this site for DIY alignment.  It sounds like he my know what
he's doing but who knows.

Let us know.

http://www.skidmore.edu/~pdwyer/amc/align.htm

Harry Watkins
Newton, MS
86 SDL Silver
85 300D Euro
86 SDL Gold
81 240D manual trans


- Original Message - 
From: "Mike Piles" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Saturday, November 12, 2005 11:00 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] DIY toe in adjustment


> I was planning on making one,  the procedure as I envision it would be to
> scribe a line down the middle of each of the front tires and measure the
> distance between the lines on the front of the tire and on the rear of the
> tire, the difference being the toe in.  The only thing tat I am concerned
> about is that it would be possible to get the measurements correct between
> the tires but yet have the toe set incorrectly by having the distance from
> the centerline of the car different on the two sides of the car.  For
> example for discussion sake lets say the total toe in is to be 1/4 inch.
> Assuming 1/8 inch toe on each side. It would be theoretically possible to
> set the toe on one side as 0" and on the other side to 1/4"  If I'm all
wet
> or if anyone has any experience or ideas please clue me in.
>
>

[MBZ] Mercedes rankes 2nd

[Hans Neureiter]

Mercedes Benz SL600 ranked second worst gas guzzler convertible behind
Ferrari.
http://biz.yahoo.com/weekend/gasguzzler_1.html

--
Hans Neureiter, Houston, TX
'82 300SD, '95 E300D

Re: [MBZ] OK Don's phat new ride

[Hans Neureiter]

It's the thing at the left side of the tranny.You can see it looking down
the right rear of the engine.
On 11/12/05, OK Don <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> Thanks! Just to be sure, the modulator with the adjustment is the part
> on the side of the tranny, not the source of vacuum on the back of the
> IP?
>
> On 11/12/05, Kaleb C. Striplin <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> > you got it right.
> >
> > Hans Neureiter wrote:
> >
> > > There is a rubber cap on the modulator (3/4" dia.). Underneath is a
> T-handle
> > > resting in detents. Pull it out and turn it. Left is softer, right is
> harder
> > > (unless Kaleb says otherwise).
> > >
> --
> OK Don, KD5NRO
> Norman, OK
> '90 300D, '87 300SDL, '81 240D, '78 450SLC
> The FSM created the Diesel Benz
> http://www.venganza.org/
>
> ___
> For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
>



--
Hans Neureiter, Houston, TX
'82 300SD, '95 E300D

Re: [MBZ] DIY toe in adjustment

[M.Affzaal.Khan]

Measure the distance (at hub height) between the  front side of the wheels
and then the rear side. If one can get them to same length size then we have
a  zero toe-in.   safe to get you to the wheel  alignment shop.
regards
mak


> unless you have a tool to measure the distance between the front wheels to
get the factory toe in specs its best to have a alignment shop do that for
you
>
> 69 280 SEL 120,000 Miles
> 72 350SL   108,000 Miles
> 2004 VW Passat 4 Motion
> 1999 Mazda Miata
>
>
> -Original Message-
> From: Mike Piles <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: Mercedes mailing list <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Sent: Sat, 12 Nov 2005 21:06:55 -0600
> Subject: [MBZ] DIY toe in adjustment
>
>
> Hello all
>
> I am getting ready to change the tie rod and center link on my 1985 300SD.
> Is there a way I can properly adjust the toe in my self?  Also my steering
> wheel is not properly centered.  If I pull the centering plug on the gear
> box and center the gear box  should the steering wheel then be centered
> unless someone really screwed something up?
>
> Thanks
> Mike Piles
>
>
>
> ___
> For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
> ___
> Try the New Netscape Mail Today!
> Virtually Spam-Free | More Storage | Import Your Contact List
> http://mail.netscape.com
> ___
> For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
>

Re: [MBZ] DIY toe in adjustment

[M.Affzaal.Khan]

Measure the distance (at hub height) between the  front side of the wheels
and then the rear side. If one can get them to same length size then we have
a  zero toe-in.   safe to get you to the wheel  alignment shop.
regards
mak


> unless you have a tool to measure the distance between the front wheels to
get the factory toe in specs its best to have a alignment shop do that for
you
>
> 69 280 SEL 120,000 Miles
> 72 350SL   108,000 Miles
> 2004 VW Passat 4 Motion
> 1999 Mazda Miata
>
>
> -Original Message-
> From: Mike Piles <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: Mercedes mailing list <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Sent: Sat, 12 Nov 2005 21:06:55 -0600
> Subject: [MBZ] DIY toe in adjustment
>
>
> Hello all
>
> I am getting ready to change the tie rod and center link on my 1985 300SD.
> Is there a way I can properly adjust the toe in my self?  Also my steering
> wheel is not properly centered.  If I pull the centering plug on the gear
> box and center the gear box  should the steering wheel then be centered
> unless someone really screwed something up?
>
> Thanks
> Mike Piles
>
>
>
> ___
> For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
> ___
> Try the New Netscape Mail Today!
> Virtually Spam-Free | More Storage | Import Your Contact List
> http://mail.netscape.com
> ___
> For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
>

[MBZ] My 300SDL is 4 Sale

[Peter Arnold]

My job requires me to have 4WD ;-(

Bad Stuff:
This car needs paint, it has no rust.  Minor damage on RR
quarter was painted poorly by PO.  This was a Southern car, all the
paint is in poor shape.
Sunroof is inop, requires 425 parts and $400 labor repair
Car is ready for rear brakes.  I'd change rotors & Calipers if
I was doing it.
Dash has 2 cracks which proves it's heritage.

Good Stuff:
Car uses 1qt of Delvac1 in 5,000 miles.
I use M/B coolant and M1 ATF.
I have oil analysis to show that engine is sound.
Car has recent front brakes, rotors and calipers w/hoses.
Car has 16" late style wheels, 2 good Nyokia   snow and
front Bridgestones that are serviceable but nothing to brag about.
In the past 2 years (50Kmi) I have done the following:  New
Radiator, water pump, vacuumed pump, shut-off valve, new lifters, glow
plugs.  P/S pump.
New M/B exhaust system last year.
Interior is decent, needs new mats and TLC
Modern radio {Jap} with CD player.

This car is my daily driver and long trip specialist.  It runs 100%.
Proof?  I'll deliver within 1,000 miles for the cost of return air
fair.

I would like to sell to  alist member as it's a good piece.  If I fail
to sell it, I will store it, my experiance has not been good doing
that.

Contact me off list, put  "300SDL" in the header.  

Kalib need not reply ;-)

--

Peter T. Arnold
Windsor, Connecticut
U.S.A.

1987 Mercedes 300SDL, 233 Kmi on Delvac1, changes when f-soot is 2%

1995 Ford F-250 W/PSD, 192 Kmi on Rotella @ 5 Kmi Changes

2002 PT Cruizer, 77 Kmi, Every 5 Kmi with what's on sale

1954 Metropolitan {My Hanger-Queen}

None use oil between changes, go figure ;-)

Re: [MBZ] DIY toe in adjustment

[Mike Piles]

If I can get toe adjusted for $35.00 I'll probably do that.  I didn't want
to pay for a whole alignment It was aligned last year and the parts I'm
changing will not affect the Caster/Camber. For a spreader bar I was
thinking about using one of those adjustable bars that they use to secure a
load in the back of a truck.

[MBZ] Chicago Craig's List 500SL

[Rick Knoble]

http://chicago.craigslist.org/car/110719719.html

$8500 is 1/2 the NADA retail for this car... not in my budget, but not a bad 
deal.
No affiliation, ect.
Rick Knoble
1985 300 CD

Re: [MBZ] DIY toe in adjustment

[Peter Frederick]

You will also need to make a spreader bar, the tires MUST be pre-loaded 
outward or the toe will be incorrect while driving.  This will eat 
tires and make it drive badly.  Only a small error causes big trouble.


It will be much cheaper and easier to get it close and drive it to a 
good alignment shop that knows how to do Mercedes -- they are NOT like 
american cars.  There is quite a bit of caster (8 degrees or so), so 
toe is critical and should be set on a computerized machine, not by 
measuring the centerline distance.  I doubt if you will get close 
enough to satisfy you.


My tire shop charges $35 for a two wheel alignment -- kinda stupid for 
me to attempt it.  I get the new tie rods as close to the old ones in 
length as possible, adjust so that it doesn't pull either way, and go 
to the shop.


Peter

Re: [MBZ] Cup Holder for1995 E320

[Hendrik Riessen]

Over here they are also banned while driving but police and other emergency 
services have an excemption due to the nature of their work.


Hendrik
- Original Message - 
From: "Mike Canfield" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "Mercedes mailing list" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Saturday, November 12, 2005 10:22 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Cup Holder for1995 E320



A cell phone ban while driving will never work unless the car manufacturers
start installing signal blocking devices or materials of some sort to make
them not work in cars.  They are banned here in Ny and I even see the 
State

troopers ride by talking on the phone.

Mike
- Original Message - 
From: "Craig McCluskey" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "Mercedes mailing list" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Friday, November 11, 2005 6:11 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Cup Holder for1995 E320



On Fri, 11 Nov 2005 17:01:32 -0500 Marshall Booth <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
wrote:


Dave M. wrote:
> I dream of the day when phones are banned nationwide from being used
> by the driver when the car is in motion.
>
> *sigh*
>
>
> -Dave M.
> (one of the last people on planet Earth who does not own a cell
> phone!)

That's two of us!


That's three of us!


Craig

--- 
Craig McCluskey


Present: 1982 240D/3.0 (Euro 1984 617.912 engine, 4-speed) 221 kmi
  Past: 1964 190Dc
1972 220D/8
1972 220/8
1987 190E/2.3

/"\
\ /  ASCII RIBBON CAMPAIGN   "Friends don't send friends
 X   AGAINST HTML MAIL  HTML email."
/ \  AND POSTINGS
  http://www.fred.net/tds/longrange.html
 http://pruffle.mit.edu/~ccarter/I_do_not_use_microsoft.html

___
For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net




___
For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net


--
No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
Version: 7.0.338 / Virus Database: 267.13.0/167 - Release Date: 11/11/2005

Re: [MBZ] '90 300D 2.5 transmission modulator adjustment

[Kaleb C. Striplin]

Well the shifts on that car will be soft, much softer than you are used 
to.  Those things are so complicated vacuum wise Im not aware of the 
procedure for adjusting it to spec.  I suppose you could just yank the 
line to the tranny and plug it off.


OK Don wrote:


I'm missing something here - I can't find where/how to adjust the
shift hardness on this car.
Chassis - 124.128
Engine - 602.962
Tranny - 722.418

The sifts on this car are softer than I'd like - just short of
flaring. I like a nice crisp shift under WOT.

I don't have the 124 manual, but it looks like this engine is
referenced on the 126 manual that I do have, in the injection system
section. However, if it's right, the adjustment lever must be between
the VCV and the IP - meaning you have to remove it? There is also
mention of rotating the VCV with the throttle at the full open stop
(with the engine running?). You rotate the VCV till you feel
resistance. Does this affect the shifts?

What's the right way to adjust the shifts, and where is it done?

--
OK Don, KD5NRO
Norman, OK
'90 300D, '87 300SDL,  '81 240D,  '78 450SLC
The FSM created the Diesel Benz
http://www.venganza.org/

___
For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net





--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D,
 84 250 LWB, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D,
 76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 69 250
Okie Benz Auto parts-email for used parts

Re: [MBZ] DIY toe in adjustment

[Nick Wellinghoff]

One would think it would be wiser to set the toe in the same on each side.

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Mike Piles
Sent: Saturday, November 12, 2005 11:01 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [MBZ] DIY toe in adjustment

I was planning on making one,  the procedure as I envision it would be to
scribe a line down the middle of each of the front tires and measure the
distance between the lines on the front of the tire and on the rear of the
tire, the difference being the toe in.  The only thing tat I am concerned
about is that it would be possible to get the measurements correct between
the tires but yet have the toe set incorrectly by having the distance from
the centerline of the car different on the two sides of the car.  For
example for discussion sake lets say the total toe in is to be 1/4 inch.
Assuming 1/8 inch toe on each side. It would be theoretically possible to
set the toe on one side as 0" and on the other side to 1/4"  If I'm all wet
or if anyone has any experience or ideas please clue me in.

Thanks
Mike Piles
1985 300 SD
2000 VW Jetta TDI
  -Original Message-
  From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
  Sent: Saturday, November 12, 2005 9:28 PM
  To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  Subject: Re: [MBZ] DIY toe in adjustment


  unless you have a tool to measure the distance between the front wheels to
get the factory toe in specs its best to have a alignment shop do that for
you

  69 280 SEL 120,000 Miles
  72 350SL   108,000 Miles
  2004 VW Passat 4 Motion
  1999 Mazda Miata


  -Original Message-
  From: Mike Piles <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  To: Mercedes mailing list <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  Sent: Sat, 12 Nov 2005 21:06:55 -0600
  Subject: [MBZ] DIY toe in adjustment


Hello all

I am getting ready to change the tie rod and center link on my 1985 300SD.
Is there a way I can properly adjust the toe in my self?  Also my steering
wheel is not properly centered.  If I pull the centering plug on the gear
box and center the gear box  should the steering wheel then be centered
unless someone really screwed something up?

Thanks
Mike Piles



___
For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net


--
  Try the New Netscape Mail Today!
  Virtually Spam-Free | More Storage | Import Your Contact List
  http://mail.netscape.com
___
For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net

Re: [MBZ] DIY toe in adjustment

[Mike Piles]

I was planning on making one,  the procedure as I envision it would be to
scribe a line down the middle of each of the front tires and measure the
distance between the lines on the front of the tire and on the rear of the
tire, the difference being the toe in.  The only thing tat I am concerned
about is that it would be possible to get the measurements correct between
the tires but yet have the toe set incorrectly by having the distance from
the centerline of the car different on the two sides of the car.  For
example for discussion sake lets say the total toe in is to be 1/4 inch.
Assuming 1/8 inch toe on each side. It would be theoretically possible to
set the toe on one side as 0" and on the other side to 1/4"  If I'm all wet
or if anyone has any experience or ideas please clue me in.

Thanks
Mike Piles
1985 300 SD
2000 VW Jetta TDI
  -Original Message-
  From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
  Sent: Saturday, November 12, 2005 9:28 PM
  To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  Subject: Re: [MBZ] DIY toe in adjustment


  unless you have a tool to measure the distance between the front wheels to
get the factory toe in specs its best to have a alignment shop do that for
you

  69 280 SEL 120,000 Miles
  72 350SL   108,000 Miles
  2004 VW Passat 4 Motion
  1999 Mazda Miata


  -Original Message-
  From: Mike Piles <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  To: Mercedes mailing list <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  Sent: Sat, 12 Nov 2005 21:06:55 -0600
  Subject: [MBZ] DIY toe in adjustment


Hello all

I am getting ready to change the tie rod and center link on my 1985 300SD.
Is there a way I can properly adjust the toe in my self?  Also my steering
wheel is not properly centered.  If I pull the centering plug on the gear
box and center the gear box  should the steering wheel then be centered
unless someone really screwed something up?

Thanks
Mike Piles



___
For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net


--
  Try the New Netscape Mail Today!
  Virtually Spam-Free | More Storage | Import Your Contact List
  http://mail.netscape.com

Re: [MBZ] DIY toe in adjustment

[mykd1]

unless you have a tool to measure the distance between the front wheels to get 
the factory toe in specs its best to have a alignment shop do that for you 
 
69 280 SEL 120,000 Miles
72 350SL   108,000 Miles
2004 VW Passat 4 Motion
1999 Mazda Miata   
 
 
-Original Message-
From: Mike Piles <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: Mercedes mailing list <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Sat, 12 Nov 2005 21:06:55 -0600
Subject: [MBZ] DIY toe in adjustment


Hello all

I am getting ready to change the tie rod and center link on my 1985 300SD.
Is there a way I can properly adjust the toe in my self?  Also my steering
wheel is not properly centered.  If I pull the centering plug on the gear
box and center the gear box  should the steering wheel then be centered
unless someone really screwed something up?

Thanks
Mike Piles



___
For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
___
Try the New Netscape Mail Today!
Virtually Spam-Free | More Storage | Import Your Contact List
http://mail.netscape.com

Re: [MBZ] '90 300D 2.5 transmission modulator adjustment

[mykd1]

never had to do it on a Benz, but the tightness of the shifts are controlled by 
a spring in the modulator and on GM and some Chryslers there is a screw inside 
the modulator where the vacuum line connects. To tighten the shift you turn the 
screw clockwise and to soften the shift its counter clockwise. Basically all 
you are doing is putting tension on the spring to control how much vacuum is 
needed to shift. 
 
69 280 SEL 120,000 Miles
72 350SL   108,000 Miles
2004 VW Passat 4 Motion
1999 Mazda Miata   
 
 
-Original Message-
From: OK Don <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: Mercedes mailing list <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Sat, 12 Nov 2005 20:59:53 -0600
Subject: [MBZ] '90 300D 2.5 transmission modulator adjustment


I'm missing something here - I can't find where/how to adjust the
shift hardness on this car.
Chassis - 124.128
Engine - 602.962
Tranny - 722.418

The sifts on this car are softer than I'd like - just short of
flaring. I like a nice crisp shift under WOT.

I don't have the 124 manual, but it looks like this engine is
referenced on the 126 manual that I do have, in the injection system
section. However, if it's right, the adjustment lever must be between
the VCV and the IP - meaning you have to remove it? There is also
mention of rotating the VCV with the throttle at the full open stop
(with the engine running?). You rotate the VCV till you feel
resistance. Does this affect the shifts?

What's the right way to adjust the shifts, and where is it done?

--
OK Don, KD5NRO
Norman, OK
'90 300D, '87 300SDL,  '81 240D,  '78 450SLC
The FSM created the Diesel Benz
http://www.venganza.org/

___
For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
___
Try the New Netscape Mail Today!
Virtually Spam-Free | More Storage | Import Your Contact List
http://mail.netscape.com

Re: [MBZ] '90 300D 2.5 transmission modulator adjustment

[Peter Frederick]

The control "box" is on the side of the IP, has three hoses on it and 
two screws in slots.  loosen screws, hold throttle wide open (engine 
off, since you don't want to toss a rod), rotate clockwise until you 
feel slight resistance.


If that doesn't fix it  you will need to adjust the modulator itself.

peter

[MBZ] DIY toe in adjustment

[Mike Piles]

Hello all

I am getting ready to change the tie rod and center link on my 1985 300SD.
Is there a way I can properly adjust the toe in my self?  Also my steering
wheel is not properly centered.  If I pull the centering plug on the gear
box and center the gear box  should the steering wheel then be centered
unless someone really screwed something up?

Thanks
Mike Piles

[MBZ] '90 300D 2.5 transmission modulator adjustment

[OK Don]

I'm missing something here - I can't find where/how to adjust the
shift hardness on this car.
Chassis - 124.128
Engine - 602.962
Tranny - 722.418

The sifts on this car are softer than I'd like - just short of
flaring. I like a nice crisp shift under WOT.

I don't have the 124 manual, but it looks like this engine is
referenced on the 126 manual that I do have, in the injection system
section. However, if it's right, the adjustment lever must be between
the VCV and the IP - meaning you have to remove it? There is also
mention of rotating the VCV with the throttle at the full open stop
(with the engine running?). You rotate the VCV till you feel
resistance. Does this affect the shifts?

What's the right way to adjust the shifts, and where is it done?

--
OK Don, KD5NRO
Norman, OK
'90 300D, '87 300SDL,  '81 240D,  '78 450SLC
The FSM created the Diesel Benz
http://www.venganza.org/

Re: [MBZ] How long do engine mounts usually survive?

[OK Don]

I just replaced the engine mounts in my '90 300D 2.5 yesterday. These
are the easiest mounts t change that I've ever worked with. The
difference is well worth the price and effort. I also replaced the
transmission mount since it was probably the same age as the engine
mounts. The left engine mount was completely collapsed, the right one
was about half way down.

On 11/12/05, [EMAIL PROTECTED] <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Marshall,
>
> Thank you for the clarification. My left mount is riding on the frame. I
> cannot even get my finger under it.
>
> The right mount looks great, and I know the PO said Mercedes had
> replaced "the mounts", so maybe that one has less than 50k miles
> on it. At $70 apiece, I will probably try to just replace the one.
>
> Kevin
>
>
>
>
> On 7 Nov 2005 at 9:44, Marshall Booth wrote:
>
> > [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> > > Thanks, Marshall,
> > >
> > > Both of my engine mounts look good, if I understand what you have
> > > told me. There is almost a 1" rubber cone with like a rounded
> > > aluminum cup sitting on top of it. That makes the aluminum cup of
> > > the mount more than an inch above the chassis. So, I guess they
> > > are in good shape.
> > >
> > > I have taken weeks to look into this, because of trying to get my
> > > daughter's new car in shape, etc. That line of problems is still active,
> > > so I think I am just going to live with this idle for a long while. I hate
> > > it, but I cannot think of a good way to test the idle solenoid, the
> > > nozzles are new, the delivery valves almost never go bad, and it
> > > runs great under normal load.
> >
> > >
> > > On 24 Oct 2005 at 20:04, Marshall Booth wrote:
> >
> > >> The factory mounts usually last a LOT longer than 70kmi (but the
> > >> aftermarket ones sometimes don't). Fortunately failure of the motor
> > >> mounts on a 124 series car are easy to check objectively. If there is
> > >> 1/2" (actually 13 mm) clearance between the notch and the chassis the
> > >> mount is fine. If less than 1/2" the mount needs to be replaced.
> >
> > See picture here: http://img.eautopartscatalog.com/live/A700016346CFW.JPG
> >
> > The notch that I referred to above is clearly apparent on the left side
> > (there one on the other side too) of the picture in the link and there
> > must be at least 1/2" (13 mm) clearance or the mount has collapsed and
> > must be replaced. Mercedes recommends making a tool that's 13 mm thick
> > to check the condition of the mount.
> >
> > See page 3-4:
> > http://mb.braingears.com/124_DISC1/Program/Engine/602_603/Prog_Repairs/mech5.pdf
> >
> > Marshall
> > --
> > Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
> >"der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > '87 300TD 182Kmi, '84 190D 2.2 229Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5
> > turbo 237kmi
> >
> > ___
> > For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
> > For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> >
> > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> > http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
> >
>
>
>
> ___
> For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
>


--
OK Don, KD5NRO
Norman, OK
'90 300D, '87 300SDL,  '81 240D,  '78 450SLC
The FSM created the Diesel Benz
http://www.venganza.org/

Re: [MBZ] Idle is getting scary rough. - Hue Wong

[macknox]

Hue!

I was wrong. I am sorry I didn't check the mounts. It looks like the 
previous owner only replaced one of the mounts, and now the other 
one has failed. 

I did not know there was a procedure for checking them, or I sure 
would have done so. 

I live and learn. Thanks for trying to steer me right,

Kevin



On 10 Oct 2005 at 17:01, hue wong wrote:

> Check the moter mounts!  This made a HUGE difference
> in my 300td and the synmptoms sound aobu thte same...
> 
> 
> --- "Kaleb C. Striplin" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> 
> > check the delivery valves.
> > 
> > [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> > 
> > > About 3 weeks ago, my 91 300D 2.5 turbo started
> > idling rough. It 
> > > came on kind of gradual, so I didn't sweat it. I
> > had an '87 190D 2.5T 
> > > and it idled rough. I figured it was due up at
> > 155k, so I put some 
> > > injectors in it. 
> > > 
> > > Wierdly, the cylinders all seem to be firing
> > better, but the idle is 
> > > getting worse. I can feel that the injectors made
> > a difference, but 
> > > they did not seem to affect the problem much at
> > all. It seems to be 
> > > getting worse, though that might just be the
> > temperature dropping. 
> > > 
> > > What else should I be looking at?
> > > 
> > > Under any load at all, the car runs like a champ.
> > It just hates to idle. 
> > > The idle is rough enough to make my CD player
> > skip, though. 
> > > 
> > > Thanks for any tips. 
> > > 
> > > Kevin
> > > 
> > > 
> > > ___
> > > For new parts see official list sponsor:
> > http://www.buymbparts.com/
> > > For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > > 
> > > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> > >
> >
> http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
> > > 
> > > 
> > > 
> > 
> > -- 
> > Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
> >   89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE,
> >   85 300D,  83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D,
> >   76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 69 250
> > Okie Benz Auto parts-email for used parts
> > 
> > ___
> > For new parts see official list sponsor:
> > http://www.buymbparts.com/
> > For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > 
> > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> >
> http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
> > 
> 
> 
> http://perceptionfest.com
> Online Streaming Film festival
> 
> 
>   
> __ 
> Yahoo! Music Unlimited 
> Access over 1 million songs. Try it free.
> http://music.yahoo.com/unlimited/
> 
> ___
> For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> 
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
> 

Re: [MBZ] How long do engine mounts usually survive?

[macknox]

Marshall, 

Thank you for the clarification. My left mount is riding on the frame. I 
cannot even get my finger under it. 

The right mount looks great, and I know the PO said Mercedes had 
replaced "the mounts", so maybe that one has less than 50k miles 
on it. At $70 apiece, I will probably try to just replace the one. 

Kevin




On 7 Nov 2005 at 9:44, Marshall Booth wrote:

> [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> > Thanks, Marshall,
> > 
> > Both of my engine mounts look good, if I understand what you have 
> > told me. There is almost a 1" rubber cone with like a rounded 
> > aluminum cup sitting on top of it. That makes the aluminum cup of 
> > the mount more than an inch above the chassis. So, I guess they 
> > are in good shape. 
> > 
> > I have taken weeks to look into this, because of trying to get my 
> > daughter's new car in shape, etc. That line of problems is still active, 
> > so I think I am just going to live with this idle for a long while. I hate 
> > it, but I cannot think of a good way to test the idle solenoid, the 
> > nozzles are new, the delivery valves almost never go bad, and it 
> > runs great under normal load. 
> 
> > 
> > On 24 Oct 2005 at 20:04, Marshall Booth wrote:
> 
> >> The factory mounts usually last a LOT longer than 70kmi (but the 
> >> aftermarket ones sometimes don't). Fortunately failure of the motor 
> >> mounts on a 124 series car are easy to check objectively. If there is 
> >> 1/2" (actually 13 mm) clearance between the notch and the chassis the 
> >> mount is fine. If less than 1/2" the mount needs to be replaced.
> 
> See picture here: http://img.eautopartscatalog.com/live/A700016346CFW.JPG
> 
> The notch that I referred to above is clearly apparent on the left side 
> (there one on the other side too) of the picture in the link and there 
> must be at least 1/2" (13 mm) clearance or the mount has collapsed and 
> must be replaced. Mercedes recommends making a tool that's 13 mm thick 
> to check the condition of the mount.
> 
> See page 3-4: 
> http://mb.braingears.com/124_DISC1/Program/Engine/602_603/Prog_Repairs/mech5.pdf
> 
> Marshall
> -- 
> Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
>"der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> '87 300TD 182Kmi, '84 190D 2.2 229Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 
> turbo 237kmi
> 
> ___
> For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> 
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
> 

[MBZ] !!!!!!!! 300 SDL BAD MOTOR (DIESEL) NO RESERVE !!!!!!!

[Craig McCluskey]

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/300-SDL-BAD-MOTOR-DIESEL-NO-RESERVE_W0QQitemZ4587879538QQcategoryZ6330QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem


Now at $560.


Craig

Re: [MBZ] Cell phones

[P. D. Ferguson]

   Not so with Tracphone so long as you keep the service in 
place.  Costs about $100 per year for which you can get up to 300 minutes if 
you renew when they have special promotions.  Mine has far better 
coverage(it works in Canada) than my wife's Sprint deal.  Not for chatty 
people as it costs too much per minute, but great for emergencies and 
occasional use.

Peter Ferguson
- Original Message - 
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Saturday, November 12, 2005 6:06 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Cell phones


just wanted to tip ya off on those pay as you go cell phones, the time you 
purchase has a expiration date with it. In otherwords if you don't use 
those minutes you loose them

Re: [MBZ] Cell phones

[mykd1]

just wanted to tip ya off on those pay as you go cell phones, the time you 
purchase has a expiration date with it. In otherwords if you don't use those 
minutes you loose them 
 
69 280 SEL 120,000 Miles
72 350SL   108,000 Miles
2004 VW Passat 4 Motion
1999 Mazda Miata   
 
 
-Original Message-
From: Harry Watkins <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: Mercedes mailing list <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Sat, 12 Nov 2005 10:21:42 -0600
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Cell phones


I was never going to get one until I was right behind three cars that
smashed into the inside barrier right after a short downpour.  We were on
I-75 (speedway) south of Lakeland FL and I had no way to get help.  Of
course someone else did, whew.

So I got a Tracfone to keep in the car, $100 a year with 100 minutes I
almost never use.  It was handy when Ivan came through Pensacola though.

Harry Watkins
Newton, MS
86 SDL Silver
85 300D Euro
86 SDL Gold
81 240D manual trans




___
For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
___
Try the New Netscape Mail Today!
Virtually Spam-Free | More Storage | Import Your Contact List
http://mail.netscape.com