Re: [MBZ] 300td timing chain issues
hue wong wrote: Hi all! Just had a chance to chek the reading and it looks like it's exactly 5 degrees off. (if the mesurement is: the mark on the cam guide collar and top notch on the bearing tower at 3' oclock are aligned and are supposed to match/lineup with the top post/nub/zero degrees on the bottom timing gauge on teh crankcase housing?) And if this is bad, then How hard and what exactly is the procedure to swap out the timing chain? Is is a timing chain swap, or do sprockets and tensioners and railguides, ect need to be swapped out as well! Well if you're talking about a 61x.9x engine with 5 degrees of stretch you have time to plan and carry out the change when it's convenient (if you have a 60x engine you it's a little more urgent). It can safely be done any time in the next 10-20kmi. The system is designed so that ONLY the chain and tensioner (or at least it's spring) need to be changed if it's done in a timely manner. No need to change the sprocket unless its hooked or the guides unless they are DEEPLY grooved (they are expected to be changed when the engine is rebuilt from the ground up - usually at about 500kmi). Chains almost NEVER break until the stretch approaches 9-10 degrees. After you change the chain, the car WILL run and usually start better! Marshall -- Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions) der Dieseling Doktor [EMAIL PROTECTED] '87 300TD 182Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 237kmi, '84 190D 2.2 229Kmi (retired)
Re: [MBZ] EPC question - CLK optional wheel bolts?
On a stock wheel, yes. 15x6.5 ET45 for the early 15-hole wheels, and the same or maybe 15x7 for the later 8-holers. ET37 is not a drastic change, just puts the centerline of the wheel 8 mm farther out. Together with wider tires than stock this means the edge of the tire is at most an inch or so closer to the inside of the front fender, hence my concern about rubbing. My objective is definitely not to make the car handle *worse*!! A small change in offset like this is well within design parameters for the suspension. (As opposed to, say, lowering a Honda Accord by cutting six inches out of the springs, and then putting steamroller tires on it that stick out three inches from the fenders.) Alex Chamberlain '87 300D Turbo '93 Isuzu Trooper On 4/4/06, Desert Rat [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Isn't the offset on a W124 wheel somewhere in the neighborhood of 45? On 4/4/06, Alex Chamberlain [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Thanks, Dave! The 21 mm ones must be what I'm looking for. Yeah, I bought those wheels not just because I like the looks of them but also because I had heard that they were forged, not cast like most new wheels are. They are 16x7.5 ET 37. I plan to put them on the 300D with 205/55-16 tires. (I'd like to go wider, to 215/55-16s, but I'm afraid they might rub in the front at maximum lock due to the wider offset. What do you think?) I'll weigh them when I get a chance. Not sure I have anything more accurate than the bathroom scale to do it with, though, LOL! Alex On 4/3/06, Dave M. [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Alex, I think those are the forged aluminum wheels... they're supposed to be quite light. If you are able to weigh them, I'd be curious about the weight. What size/offset are they, btw? Anyway, the EPC shows two lug bolts for the 99 CLK320 in two different lengths, I assume you'd need the shorter of the two (the longer ones are for code 648/659 which may be a Sport or AMG variant.) 203-401-01-70 - M12 x 1, 5 x 21 203-401-02-70 - M12 x 1, 5 x 40 Looks to me like the first one is 21mm long, and the second is 40mm long? :-) -Dave M. -- Date: Sun, 2 Apr 2006 23:42:52 -0800 From: Alex Chamberlain [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [MBZ] EPC question - CLK optional wheel bolts? Can somebody with the EPC look up a part for me---the lug bolt that fits the wheel in the attached picture? (Also at http://www.w124diesel.net/clkwheel.jpg if the attachment doesn't work.) These are sometimes called lightweight CLK wheels. They were an option on late '90s CLKs and maybe other cars. The girl I bought them from said they came on her '99 right off the lot, and she didn't know there was anything special about them (muah ha ha! her loss!). Standard lug bolts that work with every other wheel on a 124 don't work with these---it looks like they need to be about 2 or 3 cm shorter to bottom out properly in the seats. I want to know the right part number before I call Rusty... not that I don't trust him, just that I have heard tell that these bolts are an exotic item, easily mistaken for other bolts, and want to get more than one opinion on the right PN before I order. Thanks, Alex Chamberlain '87 300D Turbo '93 Isuzu Trooper ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net -- John Freer Palm Springs, CA 1992 500 SEL 140K Stardust 1985 380SL 145K Blue Belle 1996 Sidekick 57K Kermit ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
Re: [MBZ] EPC question - CLK optional wheel bolts?
Alex Chamberlain wrote: On a stock wheel, yes. 15x6.5 ET45 for the early 15-hole wheels, and the same or maybe 15x7 for the later 8-holers. ET37 is not a drastic change, just puts the centerline of the wheel 8 mm farther out. Together with wider tires than stock this means the edge of the tire is at most an inch or so closer to the inside of the front fender, hence my concern about rubbing. My objective is definitely not to make the car handle *worse*!! A small change in offset like this is well within design parameters for the suspension. (As opposed to, say, lowering a Honda Accord by cutting six inches out of the springs, and then putting steamroller tires on it that stick out three inches from the fenders.) For the steering geometry to remain as designed, the ET changes as the wheel width changes. If the wheel gets 12.7 mm wider (1/2) the ET needs to decrease by about half that or 6.35mm. So that to change from a 15x6.5 ET48 to a 15x7 the ET should be about 41mm. 37 mm is USUALLY close enough, but 25 or 30 wouldn't be! Then there's the question about the tire/wheel rubbing on something - that's an entirely different problem and one that usually can't be answered without putting the tires/wheels on the car! Three of my 201s handled 195/65x15 tires on 6 1/2 (ET49) or even 7x15 (ET37) wheels (stock is 185/65x15 on 6x15 ET49 wheels). On the other two, those oversized tire/wheels would rub almost every time I hit a bump. Marshall -- Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions) der Dieseling Doktor [EMAIL PROTECTED] '87 300TD 182Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 237kmi, '84 190D 2.2 229Kmi (retired)
[MBZ] W123 console
Was somebody looking for a 123 console? I was at the U-Pull and one of the cars there had one that doesn't appear to have been buggered up. (Yet.) I can get it and ship it for a modest fee. (Cost + $10, that should cover the fuel to go back!) -- Jim
[MBZ] veggie fuel
Soy oil is $2.88/gal at Sam's, Goldsboro, NC; #2 is $2.56 Wilton
[MBZ] Chain Stretch on 606 engine
Glad I took Marshall's advice and replicated the chain stretch measurement on my '95 E300D with the OM 606.910 engine. My first measurement on Saturday was 4 deg. The subsequent measurements, today, were 3 deg, 2 deg and 2.5 deg. Think I'll keep this chain and check it again in 30 or 50k miles. I discovered an important trick that other 606 engine owners may want to know - The cam can be indexed for #1 piston TDC by running a pin through holes that align the left cam gear and the front cam tower. One of the bolts that holds the cam cover on the head is the perfect size to use as this pin. This bolt will fit tightly enough that I estimate the bolt will only fit through both holes within 1/2 deg of crank rotation. When looking at the engine from the front of the car, correct crank rotation is clockwise. To measure chain stretch, you must approach the index postion only from the clockwise direction. Backing the crank off a fraction of a degee reverses the play in the chain and makes the measurement meaningless. Ned Kleinhenz '95 E300D x2 '85 300D '80 300TD
[MBZ] veggie fuel
If I use it, Nature will heat it sufficiently. 'Doubt if it'll be cold enough here in eastern NC to jell it til Dec or so. Wilton
Re: [MBZ] 300td timing chain issues
I belive it is the 61X.xx engine It's a 300t '82 the Odo reads 129k (but I suspect it might have been turned at the shady car lot I bought it from...) I decided to set the vavles and button her up and do the work after another few thousand miles or so (the end of summer.) Teh sprocket looks good and for the most part, everything seems really tight in there...) the rest of the car has some issues that need fixed first and I suspect my transmition Still I've just read through three service manuals about the procedure and it doesn't seem to hard to change... A little grinding and a feed through the gears withthe wire trick ...(almost like an old bike chain removal) Almost wondering if I should do it while I have everything open and in the garage Wondering if it will make THAT dramatic of a improvment... but I don't want the thing flying apart on the road either. I hear that pretty much kills the engine... and thisis the one thing you want to keepup on on these old engines... Thanks for your advice! --- Marshall Booth [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: hue wong wrote: Hi all! Just had a chance to chek the reading and it looks like it's exactly 5 degrees off. (if the mesurement is: the mark on the cam guide collar and top notch on the bearing tower at 3' oclock are aligned and are supposed to match/lineup with the top post/nub/zero degrees on the bottom timing gauge on teh crankcase housing?) And if this is bad, then How hard and what exactly is the procedure to swap out the timing chain? Is is a timing chain swap, or do sprockets and tensioners and railguides, ect need to be swapped out as well! Well if you're talking about a 61x.9x engine with 5 degrees of stretch you have time to plan and carry out the change when it's convenient (if you have a 60x engine you it's a little more urgent). It can safely be done any time in the next 10-20kmi. The system is designed so that ONLY the chain and tensioner (or at least it's spring) need to be changed if it's done in a timely manner. No need to change the sprocket unless its hooked or the guides unless they are DEEPLY grooved (they are expected to be changed when the engine is rebuilt from the ground up - usually at about 500kmi). Chains almost NEVER break until the stretch approaches 9-10 degrees. After you change the chain, the car WILL run and usually start better! Marshall -- Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions) der Dieseling Doktor [EMAIL PROTECTED] '87 300TD 182Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 237kmi, '84 190D 2.2 229Kmi (retired) ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net __ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com
Re: [MBZ] Make your own Biodiesel ???
we have a biodiesel list for this stuff you know. Bill Gallagher wrote: Any one have knowledge or experience with making BioDiesel. http://www.biodieselsolutions.com/home/home.asp Give you all the Equipment and like . reminds me of making your own wine..TIA Bill 1981 300 TD ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net -- Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D, 84 190D 2.2, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D, 76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 72 250C, 69 250 http://www.striplin.net
[MBZ] Rust in the trunk
Jim Cathey is my new best friend. Curse Jim. When he came over a few weeks ago, he was nice enough to want to check Gump's trunk. We found that there was a lake under the rubber and trunk liner. Lots of rusty looking stuff. Thought I would wait until summer when it got hot and dry to tackle that. Then I decided I ought to look at it further, so today I pulled the liner out and sopped up the water. Really nasty looking rust staining everywhere. Out comes the wire wheel and away I go attacking the dynamat like stuff as well as the gooey rubbery coating. All the way down to bare painted metal or rust. Found a Bunch of pin holes as well as a few larger, though none bigger than a dime. There is a largish black plastic hose that runs from starboard to port in a channel. Guess where the most rust through is. YEP! right there it is mostly rusted all the way through and the tanks seems to just hang from a few paper thin bits of metal. First question - What is the best or quickest method to plug the little holes? I have already used the rust to black primer spray and thought about maybe Bondo or an epoxy coating, then some bedliner for protection. Second question - How in creation do I deal with the rusted through bit to join the stern back to the rest of the car? Can I have a panel made with the channel and weld that in? It would cover the access to the tank sender -- Clay Seattle Bioburner 1972 220D - Gump 1995 E300D - Cleo 1987 300SDL - POS - DOA The FSM would drive a Diesel Benz
Re: [MBZ] Make your own Biodiesel ???
URL Please Bill Kaleb C. Striplin wrote: we have a biodiesel list for this stuff you know. Bill Gallagher wrote: Any one have knowledge or experience with making BioDiesel. http://www.biodieselsolutions.com/home/home.asp Give you all the Equipment and like . reminds me of making your own wine..TIA Bill 1981 300 TD ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
Re: [MBZ] Make your own Biodiesel ???
___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net Bill Gallagher wrote: URL Please Bill Kaleb C. Striplin wrote: we have a biodiesel list for this stuff you know. Bill Gallagher wrote: Any one have knowledge or experience with making BioDiesel. http://www.biodieselsolutions.com/home/home.asp Give you all the Equipment and like . reminds me of making your own wine..TIA Bill 1981 300 TD ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net -- Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D, 84 190D 2.2, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D, 76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 72 250C, 69 250 http://www.striplin.net
Re: [MBZ] Rust in the trunk
Plug the little holes: Buy some professional exposy paint and apply thin coats until holes are filled . make sure surface is bare metal.. Bill 1981 300 TD redghost wrote: Jim Cathey is my new best friend. Curse Jim. When he came over a few weeks ago, he was nice enough to want to check Gump's trunk. We found that there was a lake under the rubber and trunk liner. Lots of rusty looking stuff. Thought I would wait until summer when it got hot and dry to tackle that. Then I decided I ought to look at it further, so today I pulled the liner out and sopped up the water. Really nasty looking rust staining everywhere. Out comes the wire wheel and away I go attacking the dynamat like stuff as well as the gooey rubbery coating. All the way down to bare painted metal or rust. Found a Bunch of pin holes as well as a few larger, though none bigger than a dime. There is a largish black plastic hose that runs from starboard to port in a channel. Guess where the most rust through is. YEP! right there it is mostly rusted all the way through and the tanks seems to just hang from a few paper thin bits of metal. First question - What is the best or quickest method to plug the little holes? I have already used the rust to black primer spray and thought about maybe Bondo or an epoxy coating, then some bedliner for protection. Second question - How in creation do I deal with the rusted through bit to join the stern back to the rest of the car? Can I have a panel made with the channel and weld that in? It would cover the access to the tank sender -- Clay Seattle Bioburner 1972 220D - Gump 1995 E300D - Cleo 1987 300SDL - POS - DOA The FSM would drive a Diesel Benz ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
[MBZ] HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/E-Z-FIX-LOW-MILE-EURO-ROADSTER_W0QQitemZ4628649766QQcategoryZ6329QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem -- Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D, 84 190D 2.2, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D, 76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 72 250C, 69 250 http://www.striplin.net
Re: [MBZ] HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA
Yeh, right - looks like a decent front clip donor for a more worthy Mercedes. Thanks, Tom Hargrave 256-656-1924 www.kegkits.com -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Kaleb C. Striplin Sent: Tuesday, April 04, 2006 10:23 PM To: Banned List; Mercedes mailing list; SL List Subject: [MBZ] HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/E-Z-FIX-LOW-MILE-EURO-ROADSTER_W0QQitemZ46286 49766QQcategoryZ6329QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem -- Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D, 84 190D 2.2, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D, 76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 72 250C, 69 250 http://www.striplin.net ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
Re: [MBZ] HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA
See, what makes it especially Euro is the Mercedes-Benz emblem on the hood. Odo and speedo are in miles, there's no radio, and somehow the steering wheel is completely faded and the rest of the vinyl is shiny black ... curious. Maybe if he paid me $19.81, I'd take it from him. On 4/4/06, Tom Hargrave [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Yeh, right - looks like a decent front clip donor for a more worthy Mercedes. Thanks, Tom Hargrave 256-656-1924 www.kegkits.com -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Kaleb C. Striplin Sent: Tuesday, April 04, 2006 10:23 PM To: Banned List; Mercedes mailing list; SL List Subject: [MBZ] HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/E-Z-FIX-LOW-MILE-EURO-ROADSTER_W0QQitemZ46286 49766QQcategoryZ6329QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem -- Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D, 84 190D 2.2, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D, 76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 72 250C, 69 250 http://www.striplin.net ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net -- Sunil Hari 1992 300D 2.5T - 286Kmi. [EMAIL PROTECTED] 513-205-7474
Re: [MBZ] nice
that even looks like real leather. pity it's so far away. On 4/4/06, Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/69-Mercedes-220d-220-D-Diesel-runs-great-New-Mex-car_W0QQitemZ4627953055QQcategoryZ6329QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem -- Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D, 84 190D 2.2, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D, 76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 72 250C, 69 250 http://www.striplin.net ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net -- Sunil Hari 1992 300D 2.5T - 286Kmi. [EMAIL PROTECTED] 513-205-7474
Re: [MBZ] HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/E-Z-FIX-LOW-MILE-EURO- ROADSTER_W0QQitemZ4628649766QQcategoryZ6329QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem What a dreamer! Looks like an excellent start on a 107 pickup truck, though. -- Jim
Re: [MBZ] HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA
On 4/4/06, Sunil Hari [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: See, what makes it especially Euro is the Mercedes-Benz emblem on the hood. Odo and speedo are in miles, there's no radio, and somehow the steering wheel is completely faded and the rest of the vinyl is shiny black ... curious. No, that part is true. The engine is an M110 six---the big dual-cam valve cover is unmistakable. Never sold here by MBNA... it's definitely a gray-market car. Jim's right about it making a good pickup... or transplant the engine into a 380SL that blew up after the single-row timing chain broke? Alex Chamberlain '87 300D Turbo '93 Isuzu Trooper
Re: [MBZ] Rust in the trunk
Jim Cathey is my new best friend. Curse Jim. Sorry, dude! When he came over a few weeks ago, he was nice enough to want to check Gump's trunk. We found that there was a lake under the rubber and trunk liner. Lots of rusty looking stuff. Thought I would wait until summer when it got hot and dry to tackle that. That stuff lurks. Sneaks up on ya. How in creation do I deal with the rusted through bit to join the stern back to the rest of the car? Can I have a panel made with the channel and weld that in? It would cover the access to the tank sender The official way is to get a new trunk floor and have it welded in. It can be surprisingly less expensive than you might think, or not. Quotes can be extremely variable, I hit about six body shops before I found the one that fixed the rust in the SL. It got a new trunk floor. Well, part of one. I bought the crash piece and the guy cut it up to get what he needed out of it. His price was substantially less than half of anybody else's. I suggest you explore bodywork purveyors in the low-rent district, wherever that is in your area. Here, it was Hillyard. I've had good luck with auto repair labor in Hillyard. Hungry, and inexpensive. Last time was two weeks ago when I got the 240D's seat cover repaired at an upholstery shop. -- Jim
Re: [MBZ] HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA
Let's see - how would we best describe it - but not scare anyone off?
How about: Classic Mercedes SL with small dent in rear - easily fixable!
OR -
Imported European Mercedes Sports Car - custom body work! A real eye
catcher! You'll be the envy of the crowd at the Dairy Queen! OR -
Plenty of room for the kids in back! The whole neighborhood will come out
just to watch you drive by! Be sure to wave - they'll get a kick out of
that!
You'll love the open, airy feeling that only comes with a sports car!
;-)
??
Sincerely,
Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo)
A Blood Test for your oil - www.youroil.net
For Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
Weber Carb Stuff http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
http://members.rennlist.com/my_911/Index.htm For my Paint Job Info
- Original Message -
From: Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Banned List [EMAIL PROTECTED]; Mercedes mailing list
[EMAIL PROTECTED]; SL List [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Tuesday, April 04, 2006 11:23 PM
Subject: [MBZ] HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/E-Z-FIX-LOW-MILE-EURO-ROADSTER_W0QQitemZ4628649766QQcategoryZ6329QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D,
84 190D 2.2, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D,
76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 72 250C, 69 250
http://www.striplin.net
___
http://www.striplin.net
For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
Re: [MBZ] veggie fuel
Are you kidding! You haven't been cold until you have been duck hunting on Lake Mattamuskeet in winter. Tom Potter (Ex Tarheel, if there is such a thing) -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of wilton strickland Sent: Tuesday, April 04, 2006 8:34 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [MBZ] veggie fuel If I use it, Nature will heat it sufficiently. 'Doubt if it'll be cold enough here in eastern NC to jell it til Dec or so. Wilton ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
Re: [MBZ] HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA
How about Can be converted into a custom, short bed pickup
truck
Thanks,
Tom Hargrave
256-656-1924
www.kegkits.com
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Wednesday, April 05, 2006 7:16 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA
Let's see - how would we best describe it - but not scare anyone off?
How about: Classic Mercedes SL with small dent in rear - easily fixable!
OR -
Imported European Mercedes Sports Car - custom body work! A real eye
catcher! You'll be the envy of the crowd at the Dairy Queen! OR -
Plenty of room for the kids in back! The whole neighborhood will come out
just to watch you drive by! Be sure to wave - they'll get a kick out of
that!
You'll love the open, airy feeling that only comes with a sports car!
;-)
??
Sincerely,
Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo) A Blood Test for your oil -
www.youroil.net For Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil Weber Carb
Stuff http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
http://members.rennlist.com/my_911/Index.htm For my Paint Job Info
- Original Message -
From: Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Banned List [EMAIL PROTECTED]; Mercedes mailing list
[EMAIL PROTECTED]; SL List [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Tuesday, April 04, 2006 11:23 PM
Subject: [MBZ] HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/E-Z-FIX-LOW-MILE-EURO-ROADSTER_W0QQitemZ46286
49766QQcategoryZ6329QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D,
84 190D 2.2, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D,
76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 72 250C, 69 250
http://www.striplin.net
___
http://www.striplin.net
For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
___
http://www.striplin.net
For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
Re: [MBZ] 300td timing chain issues
Yep, if the chain breaks, it *will* destroy the engine. The pistons will
hit the valves and both will suffer and you'll need a valve job and probably
some new pistons - and depending on how hard they hit, the head may crack
and the rods may bend. But as Marshall suggested, you've probably got a
few thousand miles to consider how to proceed. You a gambling man? ;-)
The procedures you;ve read are probably pretty descriptive. Basically, you
attach the new chain to the old one, turn the engine slowly and feed the new
one in as the old one comes out. When the old oneis completely out, attach
the ends of the new one together and using the special tool, fix the
connecting link.
There are places which will loan or rent you the special tool needed to
finish off the connecting link --
The critical part is to make sure the chain stays in contact with the
sprockets so everything turns in concert. Where the chain engages the
injection pump drive sprocket the clearence is tight enough to keep the
chain engaged - but you'll need to keep tension on the chain so the chain
stays tight against the cam sprocket, etc. Not a difficult job, but you
must be vigilent so the chain doesn;t jump a link.
If the stretch is at 5 degrees, you;ll get improved mileage, a better
running engine and somewhat improved performance.
Good luck -
Sincerely,
Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo)
A Blood Test for your oil - www.youroil.net
For Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
Weber Carb Stuff http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
http://members.rennlist.com/my_911/Index.htm For my Paint Job Info
- Original Message -
From: hue wong [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes Discussion List [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Tuesday, April 04, 2006 9:56 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 300td timing chain issues
I belive it is the 61X.xx engine It's a 300t '82 the
Odo reads 129k (but I suspect it might have been
turned at the shady car lot I bought it from...)
I decided to set the vavles and button her up and do
the work after another few thousand miles or so (the
end of summer.) Teh sprocket looks good and for the
most part, everything seems really tight in
there...) the rest of the car has some issues that
need fixed first and I suspect my transmition
Still I've just read through three service manuals
about the procedure and it doesn't seem to hard to
change... A little grinding and a feed through the
gears withthe wire trick ...(almost like an old bike
chain removal)
Almost wondering if I should do it while I have
everything open and in the garage Wondering if it
will make THAT dramatic of a improvment... but I
don't want the thing flying apart on the road either.
I hear that pretty much kills the engine... and thisis
the one thing you want to keepup on on these old
engines...
Thanks for your advice!
--- Marshall Booth [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
hue wong wrote:
Hi all!
Just had a chance to chek the reading and it looks
like it's exactly 5 degrees off.
(if the mesurement is: the mark on the cam guide
collar and top notch on the bearing tower at 3'
oclock
are aligned and are supposed to match/lineup with
the
top post/nub/zero degrees on the bottom timing
gauge
on teh crankcase housing?)
And if this is bad, then How hard and what exactly
is
the procedure to swap out the timing chain?
Is is a timing chain swap, or do sprockets and
tensioners and railguides, ect need to be swapped
out
as well!
Well if you're talking about a 61x.9x engine with 5
degrees of stretch
you have time to plan and carry out the change when
it's convenient (if
you have a 60x engine you it's a little more
urgent). It can safely be
done any time in the next 10-20kmi. The system is
designed so that ONLY
the chain and tensioner (or at least it's spring)
need to be changed if
it's done in a timely manner. No need to change the
sprocket unless its
hooked or the guides unless they are DEEPLY grooved
(they are expected
to be changed when the engine is rebuilt from the
ground up - usually at
about 500kmi). Chains almost NEVER break until the
stretch approaches
9-10 degrees.
After you change the chain, the car WILL run and
usually start better!
Marshall
--
Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned
questions)
der Dieseling Doktor [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5
turbo 237kmi, '84
190D 2.2 229Kmi (retired)
___
http://www.striplin.net
For new parts see official list sponsor:
http://www.buymbparts.com/
For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
__
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com
___
http://www.striplin.net
For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
Re: [MBZ] 82 300D-T running hot after acid flush
Johnny B. said: Have you considered checking to see if the thermostat has junk in it or it's stuck from a reaction to the acid flush? Are your belts tight? I will look into that. I should mention that when I replaced the radiator hoses, rubber right ? They had a layer of rust in there. I think there is a ton of rust in this engine. What is the routine for getting rid of all of this ? Is one acid flush typically enough ? What about using a Prestone product instead of the citric acid method ? On the subject of the radiator, do you ever replace them when they are not leaking but because they have correded inside or have deposits within them that can't be removed ? Thanks, Dan Elliott 82 300D-T 93kmi Check Out the new free AIM(R) Mail -- 2 GB of storage and industry-leading spam and email virus protection.
Re: [MBZ] 82 300D-T running hot after acid flush
You can have the radiator cleaned of deposits. This is often done. Any good radiator shop should be able to do it. I think I paid about $50 to have mine cleaned a few years ago. The old standby cooling system cleaner from years ago was DuPont No. 7. It would really REALLY clean the system. God only knows what it did to the metal, seals, and gaskets. I don't think you can even buy it anymore. With the alloys in the new engines, I would not recommend it anyway. Tom Potter -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Wednesday, April 05, 2006 8:14 AM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [MBZ] 82 300D-T running hot after acid flush Johnny B. said: Have you considered checking to see if the thermostat has junk in it or it's stuck from a reaction to the acid flush? Are your belts tight? I will look into that. I should mention that when I replaced the radiator hoses, rubber right ? They had a layer of rust in there. I think there is a ton of rust in this engine. What is the routine for getting rid of all of this ? Is one acid flush typically enough ? What about using a Prestone product instead of the citric acid method ? On the subject of the radiator, do you ever replace them when they are not leaking but because they have correded inside or have deposits within them that can't be removed ? Thanks, Dan Elliott 82 300D-T 93kmi Check Out the new free AIM(R) Mail -- 2 GB of storage and industry-leading spam and email virus protection. ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
Re: [MBZ] 82 300D-T running hot after acid flush
On Apr 5, 2006, at 9:14 AM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Johnny B. said: Have you considered checking to see if the thermostat has junk in it or it's stuck from a reaction to the acid flush? Are your belts tight? I will look into that. I should mention that when I replaced the radiator hoses, rubber right ? They had a layer of rust in there. I think there is a ton of rust in this engine. What is the routine for getting rid of all of this ? Is one acid flush typically enough ? What about using a Prestone product instead of the citric acid method ? Pulling the water jacket drain plug may help. all you can do is keep flushing and rinsing until you're satisfied that its clean. On the subject of the radiator, do you ever replace them when they are not leaking but because they have correded inside or have deposits within them that can't be removed ? Sure, a plugged radiator could be replaced and some send them in for disassembly and cleaning too. Thanks, Dan Elliott Johnny B. I Mac Therefore I am
Re: [MBZ] Rusty's Paper Manual
compare our prices with amazon.com. buyMBparts best prices on books! :)
On 4/4/06, [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Alex wrote:Ritter book and the Haynes manual
(published only in England, but easily available on the left side of the
pond from amazon.co.uk) are nice supplements to have if you have a little
cash to spare for them.
Thanks Alex,
The Ritter book - which Rusty calls the Paper Manual and describes it
as:
Note:
Owners Bible - This book is an E-Class buyer's guide, maintenance
handbook and technical reference source all in one. It is full of tech
tips,
service hints and system descriptions, plus insightful information about
the
W124 E-Class chassis.
is available from Rusty for $26. + shipping.
Sounds like it'll make a nice addition to my MB library. ;-)
Sincerely,
Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo)
A Blood Test for your oil - www.youroil.net
For Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
Weber Carb Stuff http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
http://members.rennlist.com/my_911/Index.htm For my Paint Job Info
- Original Message -
From: Alex Chamberlain [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes Discussion List [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Monday, April 03, 2006 12:48 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Rusty's Paper Manual
On 4/2/06, Marshall Booth [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Howdy -
While getting a order ready to place with Rusty I came across the
Bentley
Handbook with this description: Note:
Owners Bible - This book is an E-Class buyer's guide,
maintenance handbook and technical reference source all in one. It is
full
of tech tips, service hints and system descriptions, plus insightful
information about the W124 E-Class chassis.
Has anyone bought or seen this book? Is it worth the $25
price?
The book was written (and most photographs taken by) Stu Ritter. Stu
owned/ran an independent Mercedes repair shop in Denver for about 20
years (the shop still exists and is now run by Mark Langston) and is
the
technical editor of the Mercedes Benz Club Star magazine. He is VERY
knowledgeable and has packed a lot of very good information into a
reasonably priced book. There are a few mistakes in the book and a few
issues and areas where I disagree with Stu, but his book is well worth
the money.
I second what Marshall said. The factory service CD is the best 124
repair
manual, but it's not perfect, and both the Ritter book and the Haynes
manual
(published only in England, but easily available on the left side of the
pond from amazon.co.uk) are nice supplements to have if you have a
little
cash to spare for them.
Alex Chamberlain
'87 300D Turbo
'93 Isuzu Trooper
___
http://www.striplin.net
For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
___
http://www.striplin.net
For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
[MBZ] 300D Bundtcake Rims
I have been negligent in washing.my wheels are looking bad..the rear cleaned up well, but the front ones are not comming clean and it feels rough in some places..some pitting I guess...any suggestions on what to clean them with, to keep from making it worse? I know about the clean wheels but have heard discussions about overheating...some have said not to use, some say ok if slotted..another said if one has a habit of riding the brakes while driving, it is problematic...what to do..I don't have time to clean wheels 3 - 4 times a week.. thanks Rhonald 1985 300D Black/Palomino 290,000 miles Washington, DC
[MBZ] Rust in the trunk
POR15 should be your new best friend. Check out their website, they have a variety of good stuff over there. You could either just glob the paint on if the holes are really tiny and the structure of the metal is not compromised or use it with some fiberglass matte to build up strength. They also make a putty version of the stuff for filling larger areas. I used it to seal a snowmobile gas tank a couple years ago and its been just great. I also used it on a lawnmower deck last spring. I haven't mowed with that yet but after a winter of sitting out in the snow none of the rust has come back. I just wirebrushed the worst of the rust off, use the 2 treatment chemicals and just brushed on the paint. Anywhere its going to be exposed to sunlight you need to topcoat but in a trunk you'd be okay. Be aware also that most normal primer is porus so rust will develop under it just as fast or faster than baremetal. -Curt Date: Tue, 4 Apr 2006 19:47:48 -0700 From: redghost [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [MBZ] Rust in the trunk To: Mercedes list [EMAIL PROTECTED] Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII; format=flowed Jim Cathey is my new best friend. Curse Jim. When he came over a few weeks ago, he was nice enough to want to check Gump's trunk. We found that there was a lake under the rubber and trunk liner. Lots of rusty looking stuff. Thought I would wait until summer when it got hot and dry to tackle that. Then I decided I ought to look at it further, so today I pulled the liner out and sopped up the water. Really nasty looking rust staining everywhere. Out comes the wire wheel and away I go attacking the dynamat like stuff as well as the gooey rubbery coating. All the way down to bare painted metal or rust. Found a Bunch of pin holes as well as a few larger, though none bigger than a dime. There is a largish black plastic hose that runs from starboard to port in a channel. Guess where the most rust through is. YEP! right there it is mostly rusted all the way through and the tanks seems to just hang from a few paper thin bits of metal. First question - What is the best or quickest method to plug the little holes? I have already used the rust to black primer spray and thought about maybe Bondo or an epoxy coating, then some bedliner for protection. Second question - How in creation do I deal with the rusted through bit to join the stern back to the rest of the car? Can I have a panel made with the channel and weld that in? It would cover the access to the tank sender -- Clay Seattle Bioburner 1972 220D - Gump 1995 E300D - Cleo 1987 300SDL - POS - DOA The FSM would drive a Diesel Benz - Talk is cheap. Use Yahoo! Messenger to make PC-to-Phone calls. Great rates starting at 1cent;/min. From [EMAIL PROTECTED] Wed Apr 05 14:54:28 2006 Received: from mta13.adelphia.net ([68.168.78.44]) by server5.arterytc5.net with esmtp (Exim 4.52) id 1FR9Ou-0002T9-LF for [EMAIL PROTECTED]; Wed, 05 Apr 2006 14:54:28 + Received: from duckie ([69.167.172.219]) by mta13.adelphia.net (InterMail vM.6.01.05.02 201-2131-123-102-20050715) with SMTP id [EMAIL PROTECTED] for [EMAIL PROTECTED]; Wed, 5 Apr 2006 10:54:20 -0400 From: Barry Stark [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Mercedes Discussion List [EMAIL PROTECTED] Date: Wed, 5 Apr 2006 07:54:24 -0700 Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED] MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit X-Priority: 3 (Normal) X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Mailer: Microsoft Outlook IMO, Build 9.0.2416 (9.0.2910.0) X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V6.00.2800.1506 Importance: Normal In-Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] X-Antivirus-Scanner: Clean mail though you should still use an Antivirus Subject: Re: [MBZ] 82 300D-T running hot after acid flush X-BeenThere: [EMAIL PROTECTED] X-Mailman-Version: 2.1.6 Precedence: list Reply-To: Mercedes Discussion List [EMAIL PROTECTED] List-Id: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes_striplin.net.striplin.net List-Unsubscribe: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net, mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] List-Archive: http://striplin.net/pipermail/mercedes_striplin.net List-Post: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] List-Help: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] List-Subscribe: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net, mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] X-List-Received-Date: Wed, 05 Apr 2006 14:54:28 - FWIW I had a fairly new radiator in my '81SD when I got it, but after replacing a water pump, ended up with overheating. Turns out that some radiators, not sure about yours, have an extra strip of metal going through each of the coolant tubes in the radiator to help heat transfer. Great idea, but makes them very suseptible to plugging by any loose debris in the system. Evidently I generated some debris in the pump exchange. I took mine to Reseda
Re: [MBZ] 82 300D-T running hot after acid flush
I will look into that. I should mention that when I replaced the radiator hoses, rubber right ? They had a layer of rust in there. I think there is a ton of rust in this engine. What is the routine for getting rid of all of this ? Is one acid flush typically enough ? What about using a Prestone product instead of the citric acid method ? On the subject of the radiator, do you ever replace them when they are not leaking but because they have correded inside or have deposits within them that can't be removed ? Here is what Mercedes has to say about it http://mb.braingears.com/123_DISK2/program/Engine/617/20-015.pdf http://mb.braingears.com/123_DISK2/program/engine_82_do.htm Rick Knoble '85 300 CD '87 190 DT
Re: [MBZ] 82 300D-T running hot after acid flush
I will look into that. I should mention that when I replaced the radiator hoses, rubber right ? They had a layer of rust in there. I think there is a ton of rust in this engine. What is the routine for getting rid of all of this ? Is one acid flush typically enough ? What about using a Prestone product instead of the citric acid method ? I didn't think the citric acid did much for rust, but was very effective on the mineral deposits and metal salts (aluminum corrosion) that can build up and are particularly good insulators. But I don't really know. The one time I knew I needed to use the acid flush was on a 603, and it had visible white chunks inside the cooling passages. Worked. -- Jim
Re: [MBZ] 300D Bundtcake Rims
Leave em, Get em bead blasted and painted, or buy now ones. The last 2 choices are about the same price. Personally I prefer steel wheels and hubcaps. At 09:52 AM 4/5/2006, you wrote: I have been negligent in washing.my wheels are looking bad..the rear cleaned up well, but the front ones are not comming clean and it feels rough in some places..some pitting I guess...any suggestions on what to clean them with, to keep from making it worse? I know about the clean wheels but have heard discussions about overheating...some have said not to use, some say ok if slotted..another said if one has a habit of riding the brakes while driving, it is problematic...what to do..I don't have time to clean wheels 3 - 4 times a week.. thanks Rhonald 1985 300D Black/Palomino 290,000 miles Washington, DC ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
Re: [MBZ] Parts 92 300TE in MA
Wow, that's really tempting. How hard to take my 300TD drive train and fit it to that 92 chassis? Might have to call on it for the int/ext colors. It's about 25 minutes from my sister's place in Braintree.. ...Kevin 87 300TD 282k mi Frederick Moir said: Hi, All. Ad reads:- 1992 Mercedes 300IE WGN. Vy gd body int. New catalytic converter, new snow tires,cracked oil pan front susp. damaged. Have title. $600. (Cohasset) 781-383-2345. No Affiliation etc. Body parts for the TD's out there? Fred Moir Lynn MA Dieselitis Horribilis - New Yahoo! Messenger with Voice. Call regular phones from your PC and save big. ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net -- Thank God for Microsoft -- Linus Torvalds
Re: [MBZ] 300D Bundtcake Rims
When I had bundt wheels, mine never got dirty from brake dust - they still had the factory inner liners between the wheels and the brakes, and so the wheels still looked pristine. The liners were metal (maybe aluminum?) and not that thick, but they took all the abuse from the brake dust. Maybe these liners are still available. On 4/5/06, Loren Faeth [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Leave em, Get em bead blasted and painted, or buy now ones. The last 2 choices are about the same price. Personally I prefer steel wheels and hubcaps. At 09:52 AM 4/5/2006, you wrote: I have been negligent in washing.my wheels are looking bad..the rear cleaned up well, but the front ones are not comming clean and it feels rough in some places..some pitting I guess...any suggestions on what to clean them with, to keep from making it worse? I know about the clean wheels but have heard discussions about overheating...some have said not to use, some say ok if slotted..another said if one has a habit of riding the brakes while driving, it is problematic...what to do..I don't have time to clean wheels 3 - 4 times a week.. thanks Rhonald 1985 300D Black/Palomino 290,000 miles Washington, DC ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net -- Sunil Hari 1992 300D 2.5T - 286Kmi. [EMAIL PROTECTED] 513-205-7474
Re: [MBZ] Parts 92 300TE in MA
If you pick that car up, I would be interested in the rear bumper off it. Dave W Wow, that's really tempting. How hard to take my 300TD drive train and fit it to that 92 chassis? Might have to call on it for the int/ext colors. It's about 25 minutes from my sister's place in Braintree.. ...Kevin 87 300TD 282k mi
Re: [MBZ] 300D Bundtcake Rims
we've got paint. On 4/5/06, Loren Faeth [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Leave em, Get em bead blasted and painted, or buy now ones. The last 2 choices are about the same price. Personally I prefer steel wheels and hubcaps. At 09:52 AM 4/5/2006, you wrote: I have been negligent in washing.my wheels are looking bad..the rear cleaned up well, but the front ones are not comming clean and it feels rough in some places..some pitting I guess...any suggestions on what to clean them with, to keep from making it worse? I know about the clean wheels but have heard discussions about overheating...some have said not to use, some say ok if slotted..another said if one has a habit of riding the brakes while driving, it is problematic...what to do..I don't have time to clean wheels 3 - 4 times a week.. thanks Rhonald 1985 300D Black/Palomino 290,000 miles Washington, DC ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
Re: [MBZ] VIN JF1SG65636G734626
Message: 4 Date: Tue, 04 Apr 2006 15:26:33 -0600 From: Jim Keefe [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [MBZ] VIN JF1SG65636G734626 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed Can someone do a Carfax on this VIN? Thank you, Jim Keefe [EMAIL PROTECTED] Hi Jim, Being in digest mode I tend to miss some messages and for reasons not so clear to me as of yet. Anyway, please let me know if you still need that VIN check. Take care, Omar. From [EMAIL PROTECTED] Wed Apr 05 15:50:23 2006 Received: from zproxy.gmail.com ([64.233.162.197]) by server5.arterytc5.net with esmtp (Exim 4.52) id 1FRAGx-cY-HE for [EMAIL PROTECTED]; Wed, 05 Apr 2006 15:50:20 + Received: by zproxy.gmail.com with SMTP id 12so2613349nzp for [EMAIL PROTECTED]; Wed, 05 Apr 2006 08:50:18 -0700 (PDT) DomainKey-Signature: a=rsa-sha1; q=dns; c=nofws; s¾ta; d=gmail.com; h=received:message-id:date:from:to:subject:in-reply-to:mime-version:content-type:content-transfer-encoding:content-disposition:references; b=CYJYbikpLI84TW8ypZXmIg+rl2zyYi/FDXUJ5AJ3lRGXyd9VBVsZqQ+hHdrOzZe8ZNt4x9CqJZzuoATG1Rgaauar4PypdsLxkj6Ed3hViYN2OMiNtRo2c/Zer502T7H5Uzp0hMLMHuQXS7olH8u5NcmWNAWFgr+CnrcI8LVA+n4Received: by 10.35.109.2 with SMTP id l2mr2331249pym; Wed, 05 Apr 2006 08:50:17 -0700 (PDT) Received: by 10.35.109.8 with HTTP; Wed, 5 Apr 2006 08:50:17 -0700 (PDT) Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Date: Wed, 5 Apr 2006 08:50:17 -0700 From: Desert Rat [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Mercedes Discussion List [EMAIL PROTECTED] In-Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Content-Disposition: inline References: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] X-Antivirus-Scanner: Clean mail though you should still use an Antivirus Subject: Re: [MBZ] 300D Bundtcake Rims X-BeenThere: [EMAIL PROTECTED] X-Mailman-Version: 2.1.6 Precedence: list Reply-To: Mercedes Discussion List [EMAIL PROTECTED] List-Id: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes_striplin.net.striplin.net List-Unsubscribe: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net, mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] List-Archive: http://striplin.net/pipermail/mercedes_striplin.net List-Post: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] List-Help: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] List-Subscribe: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net, mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] X-List-Received-Date: Wed, 05 Apr 2006 15:50:23 - Sunil, Those discs you mentioned are not from MB. In fact, MB has issued a warning TSB to not use those discs. I have recently had personal experience with them and the damage they did to my rotors on a car I purchased. A simple hosing off of the wheels about once a month is all that is required to keep the wheels looking good. On 4/5/06, Sunil Hari [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: When I had bundt wheels, mine never got dirty from brake dust - they still had the factory inner liners between the wheels and the brakes, and so the wheels still looked pristine. The liners were metal (maybe aluminum?) and not that thick, but they took all the abuse from the brake dust. Maybe these liners are still available. On 4/5/06, Loren Faeth [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Leave em, Get em bead blasted and painted, or buy now ones. The last 2 choices are about the same price. Personally I prefer steel wheels and hubcaps. At 09:52 AM 4/5/2006, you wrote: I have been negligent in washing.my wheels are looking bad..the rear cleaned up well, but the front ones are not comming clean and it feels rough in some places..some pitting I guess...any suggestions on what to clean them with, to keep from making it worse? I know about the clean wheels but have heard discussions about overheating...some have said not to use, some say ok if slotted..another said if one has a habit of riding the brakes while driving, it is problematic...what to do..I don't have time to clean wheels 3 - 4 times a week.. thanks Rhonald 1985 300D Black/Palomino 290,000 miles Washington, DC ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net -- Sunil Hari 1992 300D 2.5T - 286Kmi. [EMAIL PROTECTED] 513-205-7474 ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor:
Re: [MBZ] 300D Bundtcake Rims
---Original Message--- From: Sunil Hari [EMAIL PROTECTED] When I had bundt wheels, mine never got dirty from brake dust - they still had the factory inner liners between the wheels and the brakes, and so the wheels still looked pristine. The liners were metal (maybe aluminum?) and not that thick, but they took all the abuse from the brake dust. Maybe these liners are still available. Those weren't factory. Those are Kleen Wheels. Two of my cars came with them installed. The first time the tires came off, the liners went in the garbage. John L. Ervine 1981 240D 4-spd 270+kmi 1980 300TD 175+kmi 1980 300SD 277+kmi 1977 280S 4-spd 81+kmi 1976 350SE 4-spd 163+kmi
[MBZ] 1992 300D 2.5T parts car or fixer, cheap
No affiliation, etc: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemitem=4628199906 I wonder which is correct on the mileage... 900,024 or 9,000,024? Anyway - no photos on the auction listing, but here's some of the text. Located in Ocean Springs, MS. 1992 Mercedes Benz 300-D Turbo, 90,00024 miles. Diesel fuel. the motor is in excellant condition, Body is in excellant condition, however the front of the car was hit and the air bag deployed, needs new bumper and airbag. I have the radiator out of the car as well as the transmition cooling coil both are in good shape. I had to remove them so I could get to the front bumper brackets they need to be straighten out. I can start the car and the motor run great and the transmition is in great shape. The car is loud due to a exaust leak. To make a long story short, the car could be driven anywhere with just a little work. Current bid = $100. This has Kaleb written all over it, along with SuperTurbo Project Car... :) -dm
Re: [MBZ] 300D Bundtcake Rims
oops. Hope Jim is reading this thread, so he can remove them from his car. On 4/5/06, jlervine [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: ---Original Message--- From: Sunil Hari [EMAIL PROTECTED] When I had bundt wheels, mine never got dirty from brake dust - they still had the factory inner liners between the wheels and the brakes, and so the wheels still looked pristine. The liners were metal (maybe aluminum?) and not that thick, but they took all the abuse from the brake dust. Maybe these liners are still available. Those weren't factory. Those are Kleen Wheels. Two of my cars came with them installed. The first time the tires came off, the liners went in the garbage. John L. Ervine 1981 240D 4-spd 270+kmi 1980 300TD 175+kmi 1980 300SD 277+kmi 1977 280S 4-spd 81+kmi 1976 350SE 4-spd 163+kmi ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net -- Sunil Hari 1992 300D 2.5T - 286Kmi. [EMAIL PROTECTED] 513-205-7474
Re: [MBZ] Rusty's Paper Manual
Yeah, but you guys should start selling the British Haynes book too! No 124
owner's library is complete without all three! Besides, it's fun to
translate spanner into wrench, boot into trunk, paraffin into
kerosene, etc. ad infinitum, in your head as you read. ;)
Alex Chamberlain
'87 300D Turbo
'93 Isuzu Trooper
On 4/5/06, Gary Hurst [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
compare our prices with amazon.com. buyMBparts best prices on books! :)
On 4/4/06, [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Alex wrote:Ritter book and the Haynes manual
(published only in England, but easily available on the left side of the
pond from amazon.co.uk) are nice supplements to have if you have a
little
cash to spare for them.
Thanks Alex,
The Ritter book - which Rusty calls the Paper Manual and describes it
as:
Note:
Owners Bible - This book is an E-Class buyer's guide, maintenance
handbook and technical reference source all in one. It is full of tech
tips,
service hints and system descriptions, plus insightful information about
the
W124 E-Class chassis.
is available from Rusty for $26. + shipping.
Sounds like it'll make a nice addition to my MB library. ;-)
Sincerely,
Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo)
A Blood Test for your oil - www.youroil.net
For Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
Weber Carb Stuff http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
http://members.rennlist.com/my_911/Index.htm For my Paint Job Info
- Original Message -
From: Alex Chamberlain [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes Discussion List [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Monday, April 03, 2006 12:48 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Rusty's Paper Manual
On 4/2/06, Marshall Booth [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Howdy -
While getting a order ready to place with Rusty I came across the
Bentley
Handbook with this description: Note:
Owners Bible - This book is an E-Class buyer's guide,
maintenance handbook and technical reference source all in one. It
is
full
of tech tips, service hints and system descriptions, plus
insightful
information about the W124 E-Class chassis.
Has anyone bought or seen this book? Is it worth the $25
price?
The book was written (and most photographs taken by) Stu Ritter. Stu
owned/ran an independent Mercedes repair shop in Denver for about 20
years (the shop still exists and is now run by Mark Langston) and is
the
technical editor of the Mercedes Benz Club Star magazine. He is VERY
knowledgeable and has packed a lot of very good information into a
reasonably priced book. There are a few mistakes in the book and a
few
issues and areas where I disagree with Stu, but his book is well
worth
the money.
I second what Marshall said. The factory service CD is the best 124
repair
manual, but it's not perfect, and both the Ritter book and the Haynes
manual
(published only in England, but easily available on the left side of
the
pond from amazon.co.uk) are nice supplements to have if you have a
little
cash to spare for them.
Alex Chamberlain
'87 300D Turbo
'93 Isuzu Trooper
___
http://www.striplin.net
For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
___
http://www.striplin.net
For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
___
http://www.striplin.net
For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
Re: [MBZ] 300D Bundtcake Rims
I have them on my 83 300D and have not had any problems. They keep my nice new-looking wheels super clean. I know they are there and if there was any sort of downside I'd noticed, I'd remove them. So far so good. (except for the hole in the block) Jeff Zedic Toronto 87 300TD 83 300D
Re: [MBZ] Parts 92 300TE in MA
If you pick that car up I'd like the taillights! Jeff Zedic Toronto 87 300TD
Re: [MBZ] Parts 92 300TE in MA
I've considered picking it up just to have parts from. I sort of have a place to store it. If it was really nice and complete inside, it would probably mean I'd part out the 87 instead. All of this is probably just dreaming as the wife has a long list of things that would be in front of any such adventure.. ...Kevin Jeff Zedic said: If you pick that car up I'd like the taillights! Jeff Zedic Toronto 87 300TD ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net -- Thank God for Microsoft -- Linus Torvalds
Re: [MBZ] 300D Bundtcake Rims
Jeff wrote:I have them on my 83 300D and have not had any problems
I'm with Jeff on this - even if MB has issued a warning. The steel wheels
some of our cars came with restrict airflow even more than Kleenwheels do -
the steel wheels have 3 very thin slots maybe 1/8x4 around the outside of
the wheels - not very conducive to airflow..
As far as the brake dust - it's more than a layer of dust - it's corrosive
and eats *into* the alloy wheel. Frequent cleaning or Kleenwheels is called
for. Very little will clean them - the suggestion of bead blasting would
probably do the most to restore the wheels. The various cleaning products
will clean the dust that hasn;t eaten into the surface of the alloys yet.
The rest will require more dramatic means - like the bead blasting.
Back to the MB warning - MB as a manufacturer must warrant their cars for
any possible situation. So if a MB might find itself pulling a trailer
while trying to descend a steep mountain grade and the brakes are being used
constantly, the brakes might overheat. IMO, they'd overheat with or without
the Kleenwheels.
Someone mentioned riding the brakes - everyone should know that's a bad
idea - not only does it wear the pads prematurely, it;s dangerous as people
behind you don;t know if you;re *really* braking, or just riding the brakes,
BTW, I put a pair of Kleenwheels on my 91 300D yesterday -- But I'll to go
back and re-read the TSB to see what damage MB suggests will occur if KW's
are used.
Sincerely,
Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo)
A Blood Test for your oil - www.youroil.net
For Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
Weber Carb Stuff http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
http://members.rennlist.com/my_911/Index.htm For my Paint Job Info
- Original Message -
From: Jeff Zedic [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes Discussion List [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Wednesday, April 05, 2006 12:42 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 300D Bundtcake Rims
I have them on my 83 300D and have not had any problems. They keep my
nice new-looking wheels super clean. I know they are there and if there
was any sort of downside I'd noticed, I'd remove them.
So far so good. (except for the hole in the block)
Jeff Zedic
Toronto
87 300TD
83 300D
___
http://www.striplin.net
For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
Re: [MBZ] 1992 300D 2.5T parts car or fixer, cheap
Dave wrote:no photos on the auction listing
Looks like some photos were added this morning - Man! Look at all those
spare parts on the hoof!
;-)
Sincerely,
Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo)
A Blood Test for your oil - www.youroil.net
For Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
Weber Carb Stuff http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
http://members.rennlist.com/my_911/Index.htm For my Paint Job Info
- Original Message -
From: Dave M. [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes Discussion List [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Wednesday, April 05, 2006 12:11 PM
Subject: [MBZ] 1992 300D 2.5T parts car or fixer, cheap
No affiliation, etc:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemitem=4628199906
I wonder which is correct on the mileage... 900,024 or 9,000,024?
Anyway - no photos on the auction listing, but here's some of the
text. Located in Ocean Springs, MS.
1992 Mercedes Benz 300-D Turbo, 90,00024 miles. Diesel fuel. the
motor is in excellant condition, Body is in excellant condition,
however the front of the car was hit and the air bag deployed, needs
new bumper and airbag. I have the radiator out of the car as well as
the transmition cooling coil both are in good shape. I had to remove
them so I could get to the front bumper brackets they need to be
straighten out. I can start the car and the motor run great and the
transmition is in great shape. The car is loud due to a exaust leak.
To make a long story short, the car could be driven anywhere with just
a little work.
Current bid = $100. This has Kaleb written all over it, along with
SuperTurbo Project Car...
:)
-dm
___
http://www.striplin.net
For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
[MBZ] veggie fuel
Tom, you can bet I've been cold, but usually in Nebraska, Michigan UP or Greenland; had frostbite in MI and Grnlnd. When it's cold enough to jell veggie in NC, I don't use it. Wilton
[MBZ] keep it clean
http://www.ehowa.com/showpicture.shtml?image=burningmercedes.jpg this is why we need to keep the engine clean and check for leaks. Or just normal behaviour for the new mercedes -- Clay Seattle Bioburner 1972 220D - Gump 1995 E300D - Cleo 1987 300SDL - POS - DOA The FSM would drive a Diesel Benz
Re: [MBZ] HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA
Tom Hargrave wrote: How about Can be converted into a custom, short bed pickup truck That would rule. ;)
[MBZ] a shameless plug
Found on [EMAIL PROTECTED] job Rick. Luther Date: Tue, 04 Apr 2006 14:30:39 -0500 From: Rick Knoble [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: Re: car issues??? I am a member of an email list dedicated to Mercedes diesels. You can get all the help you need here... http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net There are two fuel filters on your Benz. A clear pre-filter and a larger spin on filter. They both need replaced. Bio-diesel is a VERY effective solvent and will clean the inside of your fuel system, among other things, very well. Rick Knoble '85 300 CD '87 190 DT -- Luther KB5QHU Alma, Ark '83 300SD (231,xxx kmi) '82 300CD (159,222 kmi) '82 300D (74,000 kmi) needs MAJOR work
Re: [MBZ] 300D Bundtcake Rims
I'm with both Jeff and Larry.. I've had Kleen Wheels on my '80 300SD for about 200,000 miles with no adverse consequences. They most certainly have reduced brake dust buildup on the bundtcake wheels. In order to increase inward air flow, I spread the vents in the KW's a little wider. Of course, whenever I took the car to the track or to autocross, the KW's came off. I also was changing to different wheels and tires for those events. Remember the KW's are rotation specific so that the vents encourage airflow inward. If put on incorrectly, air flow over brakes/rotors will definitely be reduced or halted completely and overheating could then result. Take care, Chuck Phoenix AZ 1980 300SD 347kmiles 1986 190E 2.3 16V 118kmiles No KW's here! On Apr 5, 2006, at 10:37 AM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I'm with Jeff on this - even if MB has issued a warning. Jeff wrote:I have them on my 83 300D and have not had any problems
Re: [MBZ] 300td timing chain issues
- Original Message -
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
The procedures you;ve read are probably pretty descriptive. Basically,
you
attach the new chain to the old one, turn the engine slowly and feed the
new
one in as the old one comes out. When the old one is completely out,
attach
the ends of the new one together and using the special tool, fix the
connecting link.
There are places which will loan or rent you the special tool needed to
finish off the connecting link --
The critical part is to make sure the chain stays in contact with the
sprockets so everything turns in concert. Where the chain engages the
injection pump drive sprocket the clearence is tight enough to keep the
chain engaged - but you'll need to keep tension on the chain so the chain
stays tight against the cam sprocket, etc. Not a difficult job, but you
must be vigilent so the chain doesn;t jump a link.
Sincerely,
Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo)
--
Does the special tool rivet or brad the chains patch link together?
The only one I've done; on a '67 200D; had a bicycle chain type patch link
that snapped together without using a special tool.
GerryA
Re: [MBZ] 300td timing chain issues
It forces the stud material over in a brad-like manner. I managed to do it
without the special tool but the engine was completely disassembled during
the rebuild and I was able to put the chain in a vise where I could work on
it. Then, I put the complete circular chain in place. I tried to get my
wife to take the chain to the dealer and pay them to use the special tool to
brad the connnecting link over - didn't work - even though she explained it
was needed for a *completely disassembled* engine they refused saying it was
supposed to be installed *then* the connecting link was to be assembled. Oh
well, I found a way in spite of them. ;-)
Sincerely,
Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo)
A Blood Test for your oil - www.youroil.net
For Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
Weber Carb Stuff http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
http://members.rennlist.com/my_911/Index.htm For my Paint Job Info
- Original Message -
From: archer [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes Discussion List [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Wednesday, April 05, 2006 1:50 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 300td timing chain issues
- Original Message -
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
The procedures you;ve read are probably pretty descriptive. Basically,
you
attach the new chain to the old one, turn the engine slowly and feed the
new
one in as the old one comes out. When the old one is completely out,
attach
the ends of the new one together and using the special tool, fix the
connecting link.
There are places which will loan or rent you the special tool needed to
finish off the connecting link --
The critical part is to make sure the chain stays in contact with the
sprockets so everything turns in concert. Where the chain engages the
injection pump drive sprocket the clearence is tight enough to keep the
chain engaged - but you'll need to keep tension on the chain so the chain
stays tight against the cam sprocket, etc. Not a difficult job, but you
must be vigilent so the chain doesn;t jump a link.
Sincerely,
Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo)
--
Does the special tool rivet or brad the chains patch link together?
The only one I've done; on a '67 200D; had a bicycle chain type patch link
that snapped together without using a special tool.
GerryA
___
http://www.striplin.net
For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
Re: [MBZ] 300td timing chain issues
It rivets the head. Having grown up riveting knives on sickle bars and
riveting other things, I rivet the new style with a small ball peen
hammer. I am old enough that i spent Jr. High shop peening aluminum,
thereby having a first hand knowledge of how the hammer gets its name. I
guess there were people who were not careful enough to get the clip snapped
in properly, so the master link has been officially banned. I did them for
years and never had one come apart, but i always checked my work to be sure
the clip was clipped correctly, since it is critical.
Since you also worked on OM 621 engines, I am sure you can rivet the link
without the special tool.
Loren
At 12:50 PM 4/5/2006, you wrote:
- Original Message -
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
The procedures you;ve read are probably pretty descriptive. Basically,
you
attach the new chain to the old one, turn the engine slowly and feed the
new
one in as the old one comes out. When the old one is completely out,
attach
the ends of the new one together and using the special tool, fix the
connecting link.
There are places which will loan or rent you the special tool needed to
finish off the connecting link --
The critical part is to make sure the chain stays in contact with the
sprockets so everything turns in concert. Where the chain engages the
injection pump drive sprocket the clearence is tight enough to keep the
chain engaged - but you'll need to keep tension on the chain so the chain
stays tight against the cam sprocket, etc. Not a difficult job, but you
must be vigilent so the chain doesn;t jump a link.
Sincerely,
Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo)
--
Does the special tool rivet or brad the chains patch link together?
The only one I've done; on a '67 200D; had a bicycle chain type patch link
that snapped together without using a special tool.
GerryA
___
http://www.striplin.net
For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
Re: [MBZ] 300td timing chain issues
So, Look slike I would do this if I had access to the
tool The tool is like 189.00 and the timiming
chain is only 63.00 so geee. can't justify buying
the tool..
If, it's like an old bike chain, no problem, but it
looks like this big double chain may be a bit more and
need the tool? ANyone know where to dig one up in
Seattle?
Also, So... I swap this chain out and that re-synchs
the timeing, a quick valve clearence set and all is
well withthe engine? (seems strangly simple)
These desiels are so much different then the gassers I
had before (this is my first deseil)...
--- [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
It forces the stud material over in a brad-like
manner. I managed to do it
without the special tool but the engine was
completely disassembled during
the rebuild and I was able to put the chain in a
vise where I could work on
it. Then, I put the complete circular chain in
place. I tried to get my
wife to take the chain to the dealer and pay them to
use the special tool to
brad the connnecting link over - didn't work - even
though she explained it
was needed for a *completely disassembled* engine
they refused saying it was
supposed to be installed *then* the connecting link
was to be assembled. Oh
well, I found a way in spite of them. ;-)
Sincerely,
Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo)
A Blood Test for your oil - www.youroil.net
For Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
Weber Carb Stuff
http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
http://members.rennlist.com/my_911/Index.htm For my
Paint Job Info
- Original Message -
From: archer [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes Discussion List
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Wednesday, April 05, 2006 1:50 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 300td timing chain issues
- Original Message -
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
The procedures you;ve read are probably pretty
descriptive. Basically,
you
attach the new chain to the old one, turn the
engine slowly and feed the
new
one in as the old one comes out. When the old
one is completely out,
attach
the ends of the new one together and using the
special tool, fix the
connecting link.
There are places which will loan or rent you the
special tool needed to
finish off the connecting link --
The critical part is to make sure the chain stays
in contact with the
sprockets so everything turns in concert. Where
the chain engages the
injection pump drive sprocket the clearence is
tight enough to keep the
chain engaged - but you'll need to keep tension
on the chain so the chain
stays tight against the cam sprocket, etc. Not a
difficult job, but you
must be vigilent so the chain doesn;t jump a
link.
Sincerely,
Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo)
--
Does the special tool rivet or brad the chains
patch link together?
The only one I've done; on a '67 200D; had a
bicycle chain type patch link
that snapped together without using a special
tool.
GerryA
___
http://www.striplin.net
For new parts see official list sponsor:
http://www.buymbparts.com/
For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
___
http://www.striplin.net
For new parts see official list sponsor:
http://www.buymbparts.com/
For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
__
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com
Re: [MBZ] HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA
Hey, you could build a small gooseneck trailer out of a 126 and pull it with the SL pickup! At 01:03 PM 4/5/2006, you wrote: Tom Hargrave wrote: How about Can be converted into a custom, short bed pickup truck That would rule. ;) ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
Re: [MBZ] 300td timing chain issues
So, Look slike I would do this if I had access to the tool The tool is like 189.00 and the timiming chain is only 63.00 so geee. can't justify buying the tool.. Rent or borrow the tool, or peen it over with a hammer. (With another hammer behind it as an anvil.) I also have riveted sickle bar knives in my 'yoot', but we did have the little anvil fixture to make it easier. -- Jim
Re: [MBZ] 300td timing chain issues
Thanks Larry,
It might be risky trying to brad the stud with the chain in the car and
someone holding a buck bar, so it's probably best to rent the tool.
Performance Products catalog lists the tools sale price at $195.00 but I
couldn't find their rental price. Does Rusty rent the tool?
GerryA
- Original Message -
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes Discussion List [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Wednesday, April 05, 2006 2:44 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 300td timing chain issues
It forces the stud material over in a brad-like manner. I managed to do
it
without the special tool but the engine was completely disassembled during
the rebuild and I was able to put the chain in a vise where I could work
on
it. Then, I put the complete circular chain in place. I tried to get my
wife to take the chain to the dealer and pay them to use the special tool
to
brad the connnecting link over - didn't work - even though she explained
it
was needed for a *completely disassembled* engine they refused saying it
was
supposed to be installed *then* the connecting link was to be assembled.
Oh
well, I found a way in spite of them. ;-)
Sincerely,
Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo)
A Blood Test for your oil - www.youroil.net
For Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
Weber Carb Stuff http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
http://members.rennlist.com/my_911/Index.htm For my Paint Job Info
- Original Message -
From: archer [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes Discussion List [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Wednesday, April 05, 2006 1:50 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 300td timing chain issues
- Original Message -
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
The procedures you;ve read are probably pretty descriptive. Basically,
you
attach the new chain to the old one, turn the engine slowly and feed the
new
one in as the old one comes out. When the old one is completely out,
attach
the ends of the new one together and using the special tool, fix the
connecting link.
There are places which will loan or rent you the special tool needed to
finish off the connecting link --
The critical part is to make sure the chain stays in contact with the
sprockets so everything turns in concert. Where the chain engages the
injection pump drive sprocket the clearence is tight enough to keep the
chain engaged - but you'll need to keep tension on the chain so the
chain
stays tight against the cam sprocket, etc. Not a difficult job, but you
must be vigilent so the chain doesn;t jump a link.
Sincerely,
Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo)
--
Does the special tool rivet or brad the chains patch link together?
The only one I've done; on a '67 200D; had a bicycle chain type patch
link
that snapped together without using a special tool.
GerryA
___
http://www.striplin.net
For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
___
http://www.striplin.net
For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
--
No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.1.385 / Virus Database: 268.3.5/301 - Release Date: 4/4/2006
Re: [MBZ] Project 240D in Oregon
Dropped by the U-Pull yesterday, and found three better door checks (the one on the car I already replaced is great, the other three are only so-so), an intact piece of wind lace for the driver's door, and a passenger-side under-dash panel that has the firewall-side black part. (This is a later addition, I don't think this car ever had that, and the face half attachment is clearly different.) Will look into swapping these items in, the underpanel may require cutting and gluing. Today I put in the three door checks, greased them first. (It took longer to get them out at the U-Pull than to install them here, largely because I didn't have the BFH at the yard. Those frickin' hinge pins... A heavy cold chisel makes a terrible hammer, but is better than nothing.) Only one of the three original door checks was broken, but all were 'weak'. They were the old roller style, the new ones are BB. Much nicer now. Then I unscrewed the driver's B-pillar cover and pulled off the ratty windlace. I painted new contact cement down the door frame and applied the salvaged windlace from yesterday. It went on very easily. Then the cover screwed back on. Much easier than I thought it was going to be, and looks a whole lot better. Finally I took a look at the under-dash panel. The 'new' one has the black part stapled to the color part, whereas the old color part has holes for fingers on the black part. (The new color part is both the wrong color and has a different style of attachment to the dashboard. Not useful.) Once I'd used scissors to cut through the sound matting to separate the two parts I could see that the black part still had the old-style fingers on it, so it was merely a matter of pulling out the staples and installing it in the car. It fits, and should help cut down a little more of the engine purr. OK, now we're _really_ done, except for the hood ornament. (Parts of which are due to arrive today.) -- Jim
Re: [MBZ] 300td timing chain issues
Thanks for the encouragement. I've done quit a bit of riveting/peening too.
Maybe I will try it when the chains get up to 5 degrees. I'll bet you were
making a bowl out of a flat sheet of aluminum in Jr. High shop, weren't you?
(grin)
GerryA
- Original Message -
From: Loren Faeth [EMAIL PROTECTED]
It rivets the head. Having grown up riveting knives on sickle bars and
riveting other things, I rivet the new style with a small ball peen
hammer. I am old enough that i spent Jr. High shop peening aluminum,
thereby having a first hand knowledge of how the hammer gets its name. I
guess there were people who were not careful enough to get the clip
snapped
in properly, so the master link has been officially banned. I did them
for
years and never had one come apart, but i always checked my work to be
sure
the clip was clipped correctly, since it is critical.
Since you also worked on OM 621 engines, I am sure you can rivet the link
without the special tool.
Loren
At 12:50 PM 4/5/2006, you wrote:
- Original Message -
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
The procedures you;ve read are probably pretty descriptive. Basically,
you
attach the new chain to the old one, turn the engine slowly and feed
the
new
one in as the old one comes out. When the old one is completely out,
attach
the ends of the new one together and using the special tool, fix the
connecting link.
There are places which will loan or rent you the special tool needed to
finish off the connecting link --
The critical part is to make sure the chain stays in contact with the
sprockets so everything turns in concert. Where the chain engages the
injection pump drive sprocket the clearence is tight enough to keep the
chain engaged - but you'll need to keep tension on the chain so the
chain
stays tight against the cam sprocket, etc. Not a difficult job, but
you
must be vigilent so the chain doesn;t jump a link.
Sincerely,
Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo)
--
Does the special tool rivet or brad the chains patch link together?
The only one I've done; on a '67 200D; had a bicycle chain type patch link
that snapped together without using a special tool.
GerryA
[MBZ] Damn it's cold was veggie fuel
Not that this is a one-up-manship contest, but I had a buddy that was working security at a construction site in the winter in Yellowknife, NWT. One night whilst making his rounds he found that if he spit, it would freeze solid before it hit the ground! Now THAT'S COLD! Jeff Zedic Toronto 87 300TD
Re: [MBZ] Damn it's cold was veggie fuel
Kinda like when you have to worry about the oil in your differential freezing solid so that it physically won't move even with the engine's power, or if you shut the door too hard your paint falls off. (: Those are just anecdotes I've heard from people. Personally, the coldest I've done is way north, NY (Canton area, right next to Canada) where it periodically hits 20 below and occasionally 40 below (F). It feels cold here at 15 degrees, but at 20-40 below, it gets to where that first inhalation walking out the door kinda hurts, and you get an instant chill up your pantleg. And you hope your door locks will still move. (I would have been worried about the engine starting were I not using Mobil 1). Most people just leave their cars running at the store when it's that cold. So I bet I've been through colder than most of the typical U.S., but I'm no where's near the worst of it. (: Levi Jeff Zedic wrote: Not that this is a one-up-manship contest, but I had a buddy that was working security at a construction site in the winter in Yellowknife, NWT. One night whilst making his rounds he found that if he spit, it would freeze solid before it hit the ground! Now THAT'S COLD! Jeff Zedic Toronto 87 300TD
Re: [MBZ] 300td timing chain issues
Aluminum trays of various forms.
I forgot to mention the BIG (16-24 oz) hammer behind the link as an anvil,
as Jim mentioned. Use a 6-8 oz ball peen.
Yeah, if you know the principle of cold riveting is lots of blows with a
fairly light hammer, then you can do it with no problem. I have no
intention of spending 180-200 bucks for a special tool.
When did you get your 200D? When did you get rid of it.
I got my 62 190 D in 1971 and sold it in 1972. Bought my 200D in 72 and
still have it. Bought and junked or sold several others in the
meantime. On Dec 7, 1991 I bought the Hawaiian 200D in Hawaii Kai and then
we put the OM 616 in it in 98. It is my son's car now. My original 200D
is still the most stable car in all weather conditions I have ever
driven. But the SDL is sure nice!
At 02:31 PM 4/5/2006, you wrote:
Thanks for the encouragement. I've done quit a bit of riveting/peening too.
Maybe I will try it when the chains get up to 5 degrees. I'll bet you were
making a bowl out of a flat sheet of aluminum in Jr. High shop, weren't you?
(grin)
GerryA
- Original Message -
From: Loren Faeth [EMAIL PROTECTED]
It rivets the head. Having grown up riveting knives on sickle bars and
riveting other things, I rivet the new style with a small ball peen
hammer. I am old enough that i spent Jr. High shop peening aluminum,
thereby having a first hand knowledge of how the hammer gets its name. I
guess there were people who were not careful enough to get the clip
snapped
in properly, so the master link has been officially banned. I did them
for
years and never had one come apart, but i always checked my work to be
sure
the clip was clipped correctly, since it is critical.
Since you also worked on OM 621 engines, I am sure you can rivet the link
without the special tool.
Loren
At 12:50 PM 4/5/2006, you wrote:
- Original Message -
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
The procedures you;ve read are probably pretty descriptive. Basically,
you
attach the new chain to the old one, turn the engine slowly and feed
the
new
one in as the old one comes out. When the old one is completely out,
attach
the ends of the new one together and using the special tool, fix the
connecting link.
There are places which will loan or rent you the special tool needed to
finish off the connecting link --
The critical part is to make sure the chain stays in contact with the
sprockets so everything turns in concert. Where the chain engages the
injection pump drive sprocket the clearence is tight enough to keep the
chain engaged - but you'll need to keep tension on the chain so the
chain
stays tight against the cam sprocket, etc. Not a difficult job, but
you
must be vigilent so the chain doesn;t jump a link.
Sincerely,
Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo)
--
Does the special tool rivet or brad the chains patch link together?
The only one I've done; on a '67 200D; had a bicycle chain type patch link
that snapped together without using a special tool.
GerryA
___
http://www.striplin.net
For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
Re: [MBZ] 300td timing chain issues
I will rent the tool for $30. You pay shipping both ways, and pay a deposit of $ 160. Total payment up front from you $ 200, money order. I return a money order for $ 160 when you return the tool in good shape. Richard --- hue wong [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: So, Look slike I would do this if I had access to the tool The tool is like 189.00 and the timiming chain is only 63.00 so geee. can't justify buying the tool.. If, it's like an old bike chain, no problem, but it looks like this big double chain may be a bit more and need the tool? ANyone know where to dig one up in Seattle? Also, So... I swap this chain out and that re-synchs the timeing, a quick valve clearence set and all is well withthe engine? (seems strangly simple) These desiels are so much different then the gassers I had before (this is my first deseil)... __ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com
[MBZ] Cheap W124 300D
Kaleb posted this car http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mercedes-Benz-300-Series-4-Dr-300D-Tu-NO-RESERVE-1987-MERCEDES-BENZ-300D-T_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ6330QQitemZ4627171297QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW originally. Saw it today- this is a gen-u-ine POS that has been run down hard. Those pictures make the dirty interior look better than it is. Didn't drive it, but found that the glow light didn't light. It started, but ROUGH for a good 30 seconds at about 35 degrees F. Driver seat springs shot, window regulator bad, steering wheel had a chunk knawed out at the top. In the engine compartment had a leaking injection pump, power steering lines and other stuff. HOWEVER, according to the seller, they checked with an MB dealer and found that the tranny has less than 10k miles on it. So if you need a tranny that comes with a car, well, here you are. Tony Wirtel
Re: [MBZ] 300td timing chain issues
You can rent it from:
http://www.mercedesshop.com/diy/mb_tools/mb_tools.html
No need to buy it. And there are probably other places to rent it from. At
one time I believe there was a list member who loaned it out.
Once you get comfortable with the diesel you'll love it like we do - it's an
amazing engine - long lasting and hard working. You're becoming familar
with your engine in the best possible way - slowly and carefully.
Just go slow and ask questions when you don't understand or are not
absolutely sure about how to proceed. Also, the diesel in inherently
different from the gas engines you're used to and some thing are vastly
different.
Good luck - keep us informed --
Sincerely,
Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo)
A Blood Test for your oil - www.youroil.net
For Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
Weber Carb Stuff http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
http://members.rennlist.com/my_911/Index.htm For my Paint Job Info
- Original Message -
From: hue wong [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes Discussion List [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Wednesday, April 05, 2006 2:51 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 300td timing chain issues
So, Look slike I would do this if I had access to the
tool The tool is like 189.00 and the timiming
chain is only 63.00 so geee. can't justify buying
the tool..
If, it's like an old bike chain, no problem, but it
looks like this big double chain may be a bit more and
need the tool? ANyone know where to dig one up in
Seattle?
Also, So... I swap this chain out and that re-synchs
the timeing, a quick valve clearence set and all is
well withthe engine? (seems strangly simple)
These desiels are so much different then the gassers I
had before (this is my first deseil)...
--- [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
It forces the stud material over in a brad-like
manner. I managed to do it
without the special tool but the engine was
completely disassembled during
the rebuild and I was able to put the chain in a
vise where I could work on
it. Then, I put the complete circular chain in
place. I tried to get my
wife to take the chain to the dealer and pay them to
use the special tool to
brad the connnecting link over - didn't work - even
though she explained it
was needed for a *completely disassembled* engine
they refused saying it was
supposed to be installed *then* the connecting link
was to be assembled. Oh
well, I found a way in spite of them. ;-)
Sincerely,
Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo)
A Blood Test for your oil - www.youroil.net
For Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
Weber Carb Stuff
http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
http://members.rennlist.com/my_911/Index.htm For my
Paint Job Info
- Original Message -
From: archer [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes Discussion List
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Wednesday, April 05, 2006 1:50 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 300td timing chain issues
- Original Message -
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
The procedures you;ve read are probably pretty
descriptive. Basically,
you
attach the new chain to the old one, turn the
engine slowly and feed the
new
one in as the old one comes out. When the old
one is completely out,
attach
the ends of the new one together and using the
special tool, fix the
connecting link.
There are places which will loan or rent you the
special tool needed to
finish off the connecting link --
The critical part is to make sure the chain stays
in contact with the
sprockets so everything turns in concert. Where
the chain engages the
injection pump drive sprocket the clearence is
tight enough to keep the
chain engaged - but you'll need to keep tension
on the chain so the chain
stays tight against the cam sprocket, etc. Not a
difficult job, but you
must be vigilent so the chain doesn;t jump a
link.
Sincerely,
Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo)
--
Does the special tool rivet or brad the chains
patch link together?
The only one I've done; on a '67 200D; had a
bicycle chain type patch link
that snapped together without using a special
tool.
GerryA
___
http://www.striplin.net
For new parts see official list sponsor:
http://www.buymbparts.com/
For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
___
http://www.striplin.net
For new parts see official list sponsor:
http://www.buymbparts.com/
For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
__
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com
___
http://www.striplin.net
For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
For
Re: [MBZ] 300td timing chain issues
Had to be a bowl or an ashtray! ;-) I remember those days too.
Sincerely,
Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo)
A Blood Test for your oil - www.youroil.net
For Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
Weber Carb Stuff http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
http://members.rennlist.com/my_911/Index.htm For my Paint Job Info
- Original Message -
From: archer [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes Discussion List [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Wednesday, April 05, 2006 3:31 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 300td timing chain issues
Thanks for the encouragement. I've done quit a bit of riveting/peening
too.
Maybe I will try it when the chains get up to 5 degrees. I'll bet you
were
making a bowl out of a flat sheet of aluminum in Jr. High shop, weren't
you?
(grin)
GerryA
- Original Message -
From: Loren Faeth [EMAIL PROTECTED]
It rivets the head. Having grown up riveting knives on sickle bars and
riveting other things, I rivet the new style with a small ball peen
hammer. I am old enough that i spent Jr. High shop peening aluminum,
thereby having a first hand knowledge of how the hammer gets its name. I
guess there were people who were not careful enough to get the clip
snapped
in properly, so the master link has been officially banned. I did them
for
years and never had one come apart, but i always checked my work to be
sure
the clip was clipped correctly, since it is critical.
Since you also worked on OM 621 engines, I am sure you can rivet the link
without the special tool.
Loren
At 12:50 PM 4/5/2006, you wrote:
- Original Message -
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
The procedures you;ve read are probably pretty descriptive.
Basically,
you
attach the new chain to the old one, turn the engine slowly and feed
the
new
one in as the old one comes out. When the old one is completely out,
attach
the ends of the new one together and using the special tool, fix the
connecting link.
There are places which will loan or rent you the special tool needed
to
finish off the connecting link --
The critical part is to make sure the chain stays in contact with the
sprockets so everything turns in concert. Where the chain engages the
injection pump drive sprocket the clearence is tight enough to keep
the
chain engaged - but you'll need to keep tension on the chain so the
chain
stays tight against the cam sprocket, etc. Not a difficult job, but
you
must be vigilent so the chain doesn;t jump a link.
Sincerely,
Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo)
--
Does the special tool rivet or brad the chains patch link together?
The only one I've done; on a '67 200D; had a bicycle chain type patch
link
that snapped together without using a special tool.
GerryA
___
http://www.striplin.net
For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
Re: [MBZ] 300td timing chain issues
I got my '67 200D about 1972 and sold it about 1987. The speedo was broken when I got it, but it probably had over 400,000 miles on it when it was sold. I still miss the 33 mpg it got driving around town. Do you use the flat or the round end of the BIG hammer as a buck bar? The round end of mine has a small flat spot on the round end GerryA - Original Message - From: Loren Faeth [EMAIL PROTECTED] I forgot to mention the BIG (16-24 oz) hammer behind the link as an anvil, as Jim mentioned. Use a 6-8 oz ball peen. Yeah, if you know the principle of cold riveting is lots of blows with a fairly light hammer, then you can do it with no problem. I have no intention of spending 180-200 bucks for a special tool. When did you get your 200D? When did you get rid of it. I got my 62 190 D in 1971 and sold it in 1972. Bought my 200D in 72 and still have it. Bought and junked or sold several others in the meantime. On Dec 7, 1991 I bought the Hawaiian 200D in Hawaii Kai and then we put the OM 616 in it in 98. It is my son's car now. My original 200D is still the most stable car in all weather conditions I have ever driven. But the SDL is sure nice! At 02:31 PM 4/5/2006, you wrote: Thanks for the encouragement. I've done quit a bit of riveting/peening too. Maybe I will try it when the chains get up to 5 degrees. GerryA - Original Message - From: Loren Faeth [EMAIL PROTECTED] It rivets the head. Having grown up riveting knives on sickle bars and riveting other things, I rivet the new style with a small ball peen hammer. I am old enough that i spent Jr. High shop peening aluminum, thereby having a first hand knowledge of how the hammer gets its name. I guess there were people who were not careful enough to get the clip snapped in properly, so the master link has been officially banned. I did them for years and never had one come apart, but i always checked my work to be sure the clip was clipped correctly, since it is critical. Since you also worked on OM 621 engines, I am sure you can rivet the link without the special tool. Loren -- Does the special tool rivet or brad the chains patch link together? The only one I've done; on a '67 200D; had a bicycle chain type patch link that snapped together without using a special tool. GerryA
Re: [MBZ] 300td timing chain issues
I did the riveting in the car on a 603. it should be even easier on a
616/617. There is also a punch tool made for peening rivets that has a
hole the size of the rivet and a dimple to peen the rivet. I would bet
that Motion Industries or a similar industrial drive supplier can sell one
to you for the MB chain. This is handy because it allows you to keep the
striking hammer away from the front surface of the head. It requires at
least three hands though.
The secret of riveting the chain in the car is to use lots of little
taps. I probably tapped each pin 50 times or so. Using taps also keeps
you from damaging the sprocket or the head surfaces. Peening a rivet is
about lots of little taps, not one or two whacks. YMMV All the older
engines i have done had a master link that I used, rather than peening.
Loren
At 03:30 PM 4/5/2006, you wrote:
Hi Gerry,
I agree - it would *definately* be difficult to do it while in the car. The
only reason I was able to do it the way I did way because the engine was
disassembled (the crank was out) which allowed me to insert the TC in one
whole piece.
It can be rented at - http://www.mercedesshop.com/diy/mb_tools/mb_tools.html
There's probably other places where it can be rented but I didn;t spend much
time searching, There used to be a list member who loaned the tool but I
think he left the list - but I may be wrong - I'll look thru my favorites to
see what I can find -
Sincerely,
Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo)
A Blood Test for your oil - www.youroil.net
For Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
Weber Carb Stuff http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
http://members.rennlist.com/my_911/Index.htm For my Paint Job Info
- Original Message -
From: archer [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes Discussion List [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Wednesday, April 05, 2006 3:03 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 300td timing chain issues
Thanks Larry,
It might be risky trying to brad the stud with the chain in the car and
someone holding a buck bar, so it's probably best to rent the tool.
Performance Products catalog lists the tools sale price at $195.00 but I
couldn't find their rental price. Does Rusty rent the tool?
GerryA
- Original Message -
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes Discussion List [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Wednesday, April 05, 2006 2:44 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 300td timing chain issues
It forces the stud material over in a brad-like manner. I managed to do
it
without the special tool but the engine was completely disassembled
during
the rebuild and I was able to put the chain in a vise where I could work
on
it. Then, I put the complete circular chain in place. I tried to get
my
wife to take the chain to the dealer and pay them to use the special tool
to
brad the connnecting link over - didn't work - even though she explained
it
was needed for a *completely disassembled* engine they refused saying it
was
supposed to be installed *then* the connecting link was to be assembled.
Oh
well, I found a way in spite of them. ;-)
Sincerely,
Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo)
A Blood Test for your oil - www.youroil.net
For Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
Weber Carb Stuff http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
http://members.rennlist.com/my_911/Index.htm For my Paint Job Info
- Original Message -
From: archer [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes Discussion List [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Wednesday, April 05, 2006 1:50 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 300td timing chain issues
- Original Message -
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
The procedures you;ve read are probably pretty descriptive. Basically,
you
attach the new chain to the old one, turn the engine slowly and feed
the
new
one in as the old one comes out. When the old one is completely out,
attach
the ends of the new one together and using the special tool, fix the
connecting link.
There are places which will loan or rent you the special tool needed to
finish off the connecting link --
The critical part is to make sure the chain stays in contact with the
sprockets so everything turns in concert. Where the chain engages the
injection pump drive sprocket the clearence is tight enough to keep the
chain engaged - but you'll need to keep tension on the chain so the
chain
stays tight against the cam sprocket, etc. Not a difficult job, but
you
must be vigilent so the chain doesn;t jump a link.
Sincerely,
Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo)
--
Does the special tool rivet or brad the chains patch link together?
The only one I've done; on a '67 200D; had a bicycle chain type patch
link
that snapped together without using a special tool.
GerryA
___
http://www.striplin.net
For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
Re: [MBZ] 300td timing chain issues
hue wong wrote: So, Look slike I would do this if I had access to the tool The tool is like 189.00 and the timiming chain is only 63.00 so geee. can't justify buying the tool.. You can rent the tool from many suppliers that sell the chain. You can also peen the chain link with a hammer and backing tool to support it. Marshall -- Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions) der Dieseling Doktor [EMAIL PROTECTED] '87 300TD 182Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 237kmi, '84 190D 2.2 229Kmi (retired)
Re: [MBZ] 300td timing chain issues
the flat end It is there to absorb the energy of the taps that is not translated into moving the steel in the rivet (link pin) so that energy does not distort the sprocket or cam assembly. 110s were/are great cars. Between the noise, the fins and the big ol grille, they were always head-turners. 33 mpg combined with 27 cent fuel made for cheap travelling. At 03:57 PM 4/5/2006, you wrote: I got my '67 200D about 1972 and sold it about 1987. The speedo was broken when I got it, but it probably had over 400,000 miles on it when it was sold. I still miss the 33 mpg it got driving around town. Do you use the flat or the round end of the BIG hammer as a buck bar? The round end of mine has a small flat spot on the round end GerryA - Original Message - From: Loren Faeth [EMAIL PROTECTED] I forgot to mention the BIG (16-24 oz) hammer behind the link as an anvil, as Jim mentioned. Use a 6-8 oz ball peen. Yeah, if you know the principle of cold riveting is lots of blows with a fairly light hammer, then you can do it with no problem. I have no intention of spending 180-200 bucks for a special tool. When did you get your 200D? When did you get rid of it. I got my 62 190 D in 1971 and sold it in 1972. Bought my 200D in 72 and still have it. Bought and junked or sold several others in the meantime. On Dec 7, 1991 I bought the Hawaiian 200D in Hawaii Kai and then we put the OM 616 in it in 98. It is my son's car now. My original 200D is still the most stable car in all weather conditions I have ever driven. But the SDL is sure nice! At 02:31 PM 4/5/2006, you wrote: Thanks for the encouragement. I've done quit a bit of riveting/peening too. Maybe I will try it when the chains get up to 5 degrees. GerryA - Original Message - From: Loren Faeth [EMAIL PROTECTED] It rivets the head. Having grown up riveting knives on sickle bars and riveting other things, I rivet the new style with a small ball peen hammer. I am old enough that i spent Jr. High shop peening aluminum, thereby having a first hand knowledge of how the hammer gets its name. I guess there were people who were not careful enough to get the clip snapped in properly, so the master link has been officially banned. I did them for years and never had one come apart, but i always checked my work to be sure the clip was clipped correctly, since it is critical. Since you also worked on OM 621 engines, I am sure you can rivet the link without the special tool. Loren -- Does the special tool rivet or brad the chains patch link together? The only one I've done; on a '67 200D; had a bicycle chain type patch link that snapped together without using a special tool. GerryA ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
Re: [MBZ] 300td timing chain issues
It looks like Loren has convinced me I can do it with a ball peen hammer.
Thanks for the reference to Mercedesshop. It's good to know tools can be
rented someplace besides Performance Products.
GerryA
- Original Message -
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Hi Gerry,
I agree - it would *definately* be difficult to do it while in the car.
The
only reason I was able to do it the way I did way because the engine was
disassembled (the crank was out) which allowed me to insert the TC in one
whole piece.
It can be rented at -
http://www.mercedesshop.com/diy/mb_tools/mb_tools.html
There's probably other places where it can be rented but I didn;t spend
much
time searching, There used to be a list member who loaned the tool but I
think he left the list - but I may be wrong - I'll look thru my favorites
to
see what I can find -
Sincerely,
Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo)
Re: [MBZ] 300td timing chain issues
Do you rent any other tools, Richard? Front spring compressors, for example? GerryA - Original Message - From: Richard Hattaway [EMAIL PROTECTED] I will rent the tool for $30. You pay shipping both ways, and pay a deposit of $ 160. Total payment up front from you $ 200, money order. I return a money order for $ 160 when you return the tool in good shape. Richard
Re: [MBZ] Damn it's cold was veggie fuel
The beauty of living in Toronto is that we have a huge heat source right at the south end of the city so even though we're farther north, we're almost always warmer than NYC 500 miles south! Buffalo on the other hand, is on the wrong side of the lake and gets 10 times the snow and cold that we do! Jeff Zedic Toronto
Re: [MBZ] 300td timing chain issues
Probably have to buy the chain first, measure the diameter of the rivet, and
then order the punch tool; wouldn't I?
GerryA
- Original Message -
From: Loren Faeth [EMAIL PROTECTED]
I did the riveting in the car on a 603. it should be even easier on a
616/617. There is also a punch tool made for peening rivets that has a
hole the size of the rivet and a dimple to peen the rivet. I would bet
that Motion Industries or a similar industrial drive supplier can sell one
to you for the MB chain. This is handy because it allows you to keep the
striking hammer away from the front surface of the head. It requires at
least three hands though.
The secret of riveting the chain in the car is to use lots of little
taps. I probably tapped each pin 50 times or so. Using taps also keeps
you from damaging the sprocket or the head surfaces. Peening a rivet is
about lots of little taps, not one or two whacks. YMMV All the older
engines i have done had a master link that I used, rather than peening.
Loren
At 03:30 PM 4/5/2006, you wrote:
Hi Gerry,
I agree - it would *definately* be difficult to do it while in the car.
The
only reason I was able to do it the way I did way because the engine was
disassembled (the crank was out) which allowed me to insert the TC in one
whole piece.
It can be rented at -
http://www.mercedesshop.com/diy/mb_tools/mb_tools.html
There's probably other places where it can be rented but I didn;t spend
much
time searching, There used to be a list member who loaned the tool but I
think he left the list - but I may be wrong - I'll look thru my favorites
to
see what I can find -
Sincerely,
Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo)
A Blood Test for your oil - www.youroil.net
For Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
Weber Carb Stuff http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
http://members.rennlist.com/my_911/Index.htm For my Paint Job Info
- Original Message -
From: archer [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes Discussion List [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Wednesday, April 05, 2006 3:03 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 300td timing chain issues
Thanks Larry,
It might be risky trying to brad the stud with the chain in the car and
someone holding a buck bar, so it's probably best to rent the tool.
Performance Products catalog lists the tools sale price at $195.00 but
I
couldn't find their rental price. Does Rusty rent the tool?
GerryA
- Original Message -
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes Discussion List [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Wednesday, April 05, 2006 2:44 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 300td timing chain issues
It forces the stud material over in a brad-like manner. I managed to
do
it
without the special tool but the engine was completely disassembled
during
the rebuild and I was able to put the chain in a vise where I could
work
on
it. Then, I put the complete circular chain in place. I tried to
get
my
wife to take the chain to the dealer and pay them to use the special
tool
to
brad the connnecting link over - didn't work - even though she
explained
it
was needed for a *completely disassembled* engine they refused saying
it
was
supposed to be installed *then* the connecting link was to be
assembled.
Oh
well, I found a way in spite of them. ;-)
Sincerely,
Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo)
A Blood Test for your oil - www.youroil.net
For Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
Weber Carb Stuff http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
http://members.rennlist.com/my_911/Index.htm For my Paint Job Info
- Original Message -
From: archer [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes Discussion List [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Wednesday, April 05, 2006 1:50 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 300td timing chain issues
- Original Message -
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
The procedures you;ve read are probably pretty descriptive.
Basically,
you
attach the new chain to the old one, turn the engine slowly and feed
the
new
one in as the old one comes out. When the old one is completely
out,
attach
the ends of the new one together and using the special tool, fix the
connecting link.
There are places which will loan or rent you the special tool needed
to
finish off the connecting link --
The critical part is to make sure the chain stays in contact with
the
sprockets so everything turns in concert. Where the chain engages
the
injection pump drive sprocket the clearence is tight enough to keep
the
chain engaged - but you'll need to keep tension on the chain so the
chain
stays tight against the cam sprocket, etc. Not a difficult job, but
you
must be vigilent so the chain doesn;t jump a link.
Sincerely,
Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo)
--
Does the special tool rivet or brad the chains patch link
together?
The only one I've done; on a '67 200D; had a bicycle chain type patch
link
that snapped together without using a special tool.
GerryA
Re: [MBZ] 300td timing chain issues
Mine was white. My wife wouldn't drive it when I brought it home; said it looked like an ugly ambulance. I finally persuaded her to drive it around the block. She wouldn't give it back and wouldn't drive anything but MBs the rest of her life. I still have her '83 240D (showroom condition) which I am thinking of selling or trading for one of those 40 mpg 190Ds. GerryA - Original Message - From: Loren Faeth [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Mercedes Discussion List [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Wednesday, April 05, 2006 5:11 PM Subject: Re: [MBZ] 300td timing chain issues the flat end It is there to absorb the energy of the taps that is not translated into moving the steel in the rivet (link pin) so that energy does not distort the sprocket or cam assembly. 110s were/are great cars. Between the noise, the fins and the big ol grille, they were always head-turners. 33 mpg combined with 27 cent fuel made for cheap travelling. At 03:57 PM 4/5/2006, you wrote: I got my '67 200D about 1972 and sold it about 1987. The speedo was broken when I got it, but it probably had over 400,000 miles on it when it was sold. I still miss the 33 mpg it got driving around town. Do you use the flat or the round end of the BIG hammer as a buck bar? The round end of mine has a small flat spot on the round end GerryA - Original Message - From: Loren Faeth [EMAIL PROTECTED] I forgot to mention the BIG (16-24 oz) hammer behind the link as an anvil, as Jim mentioned. Use a 6-8 oz ball peen. Yeah, if you know the principle of cold riveting is lots of blows with a fairly light hammer, then you can do it with no problem. I have no intention of spending 180-200 bucks for a special tool. When did you get your 200D? When did you get rid of it. I got my 62 190 D in 1971 and sold it in 1972. Bought my 200D in 72 and still have it. Bought and junked or sold several others in the meantime. On Dec 7, 1991 I bought the Hawaiian 200D in Hawaii Kai and then we put the OM 616 in it in 98. It is my son's car now. My original 200D is still the most stable car in all weather conditions I have ever driven. But the SDL is sure nice! At 02:31 PM 4/5/2006, you wrote: Thanks for the encouragement. I've done quit a bit of riveting/peening too. Maybe I will try it when the chains get up to 5 degrees. GerryA - Original Message - From: Loren Faeth [EMAIL PROTECTED] It rivets the head. Having grown up riveting knives on sickle bars and riveting other things, I rivet the new style with a small ball peen hammer. I am old enough that i spent Jr. High shop peening aluminum, thereby having a first hand knowledge of how the hammer gets its name. I guess there were people who were not careful enough to get the clip snapped in properly, so the master link has been officially banned. I did them for years and never had one come apart, but i always checked my work to be sure the clip was clipped correctly, since it is critical. Since you also worked on OM 621 engines, I am sure you can rivet the link without the special tool. Loren -- Does the special tool rivet or brad the chains patch link together? The only one I've done; on a '67 200D; had a bicycle chain type patch link that snapped together without using a special tool. GerryA ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.1.385 / Virus Database: 268.3.5/301 - Release Date: 4/4/2006
Re: [MBZ] 300td timing chain issues
one made for a 1/8 inch rivet would do. The one I have used is for 3/16
rivets, but it is too big for the timing chains. I like them because the
hole is used to make sure the links are tight before you peen the rivet.
At 04:27 PM 4/5/2006, you wrote:
Probably have to buy the chain first, measure the diameter of the rivet, and
then order the punch tool; wouldn't I?
GerryA
- Original Message -
From: Loren Faeth [EMAIL PROTECTED]
I did the riveting in the car on a 603. it should be even easier on a
616/617. There is also a punch tool made for peening rivets that has a
hole the size of the rivet and a dimple to peen the rivet. I would bet
that Motion Industries or a similar industrial drive supplier can sell one
to you for the MB chain. This is handy because it allows you to keep the
striking hammer away from the front surface of the head. It requires at
least three hands though.
The secret of riveting the chain in the car is to use lots of little
taps. I probably tapped each pin 50 times or so. Using taps also keeps
you from damaging the sprocket or the head surfaces. Peening a rivet is
about lots of little taps, not one or two whacks. YMMV All the older
engines i have done had a master link that I used, rather than peening.
Loren
At 03:30 PM 4/5/2006, you wrote:
Hi Gerry,
I agree - it would *definately* be difficult to do it while in the car.
The
only reason I was able to do it the way I did way because the engine was
disassembled (the crank was out) which allowed me to insert the TC in one
whole piece.
It can be rented at -
http://www.mercedesshop.com/diy/mb_tools/mb_tools.html
There's probably other places where it can be rented but I didn;t spend
much
time searching, There used to be a list member who loaned the tool but I
think he left the list - but I may be wrong - I'll look thru my favorites
to
see what I can find -
Sincerely,
Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo)
A Blood Test for your oil - www.youroil.net
For Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
Weber Carb Stuff http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
http://members.rennlist.com/my_911/Index.htm For my Paint Job Info
- Original Message -
From: archer [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes Discussion List [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Wednesday, April 05, 2006 3:03 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 300td timing chain issues
Thanks Larry,
It might be risky trying to brad the stud with the chain in the car and
someone holding a buck bar, so it's probably best to rent the tool.
Performance Products catalog lists the tools sale price at $195.00 but
I
couldn't find their rental price. Does Rusty rent the tool?
GerryA
- Original Message -
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes Discussion List [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Wednesday, April 05, 2006 2:44 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 300td timing chain issues
It forces the stud material over in a brad-like manner. I managed to
do
it
without the special tool but the engine was completely disassembled
during
the rebuild and I was able to put the chain in a vise where I could
work
on
it. Then, I put the complete circular chain in place. I tried to
get
my
wife to take the chain to the dealer and pay them to use the special
tool
to
brad the connnecting link over - didn't work - even though she
explained
it
was needed for a *completely disassembled* engine they refused saying
it
was
supposed to be installed *then* the connecting link was to be
assembled.
Oh
well, I found a way in spite of them. ;-)
Sincerely,
Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo)
A Blood Test for your oil - www.youroil.net
For Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
Weber Carb Stuff http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
http://members.rennlist.com/my_911/Index.htm For my Paint Job Info
- Original Message -
From: archer [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes Discussion List [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Wednesday, April 05, 2006 1:50 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 300td timing chain issues
- Original Message -
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
The procedures you;ve read are probably pretty descriptive.
Basically,
you
attach the new chain to the old one, turn the engine slowly and feed
the
new
one in as the old one comes out. When the old one is completely
out,
attach
the ends of the new one together and using the special tool, fix the
connecting link.
There are places which will loan or rent you the special tool needed
to
finish off the connecting link --
The critical part is to make sure the chain stays in contact with
the
sprockets so everything turns in concert. Where the chain engages
the
injection pump drive sprocket the clearence is tight enough to keep
the
chain engaged - but you'll need to keep tension on the chain so the
chain
stays tight against the cam sprocket, etc. Not a difficult job, but
you
must be vigilent so the chain doesn;t jump a
Re: [MBZ] Rusty's Paper Manual
have it. It is ok
On Sunday, April 2, 2006, at 10:15 AM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Howdy -
While getting a order ready to place with Rusty I came across the
Bentley
Handbook with this description: Note:
Owners Bible - This book is an E-Class buyer's guide,
maintenance handbook and technical reference source all in one. It is
full
of tech tips, service hints and system descriptions, plus insightful
information about the W124 E-Class chassis.
Has anyone bought or seen this book? Is it worth the $25 price?
TIA -
Sincerely,
Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo)
A Blood Test for your oil - www.youroil.net
For Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
Weber Carb Stuff http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
http://members.rennlist.com/my_911/Index.htm For my Paint Job Info
___
http://www.striplin.net
For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
--
Clay
Seattle Bioburner
1972 220D - Gump
1995 E300D - Cleo
1987 300SDL - POS - DOA
The FSM would drive a Diesel Benz
Re: [MBZ] 300td timing chain issues
My 200D is black My wife would never drive it. She drove the Hawaiian 200D. She did like the 240D, and liked her 230TE better and now likes her 300TD very much. She does not want anything but an MB either now. At 04:40 PM 4/5/2006, you wrote: Mine was white. My wife wouldn't drive it when I brought it home; said it looked like an ugly ambulance. I finally persuaded her to drive it around the block. She wouldn't give it back and wouldn't drive anything but MBs the rest of her life. I still have her '83 240D (showroom condition) which I am thinking of selling or trading for one of those 40 mpg 190Ds. GerryA - Original Message - From: Loren Faeth [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Mercedes Discussion List [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Wednesday, April 05, 2006 5:11 PM Subject: Re: [MBZ] 300td timing chain issues the flat end It is there to absorb the energy of the taps that is not translated into moving the steel in the rivet (link pin) so that energy does not distort the sprocket or cam assembly. 110s were/are great cars. Between the noise, the fins and the big ol grille, they were always head-turners. 33 mpg combined with 27 cent fuel made for cheap travelling. At 03:57 PM 4/5/2006, you wrote: I got my '67 200D about 1972 and sold it about 1987. The speedo was broken when I got it, but it probably had over 400,000 miles on it when it was sold. I still miss the 33 mpg it got driving around town. Do you use the flat or the round end of the BIG hammer as a buck bar? The round end of mine has a small flat spot on the round end GerryA - Original Message - From: Loren Faeth [EMAIL PROTECTED] I forgot to mention the BIG (16-24 oz) hammer behind the link as an anvil, as Jim mentioned. Use a 6-8 oz ball peen. Yeah, if you know the principle of cold riveting is lots of blows with a fairly light hammer, then you can do it with no problem. I have no intention of spending 180-200 bucks for a special tool. When did you get your 200D? When did you get rid of it. I got my 62 190 D in 1971 and sold it in 1972. Bought my 200D in 72 and still have it. Bought and junked or sold several others in the meantime. On Dec 7, 1991 I bought the Hawaiian 200D in Hawaii Kai and then we put the OM 616 in it in 98. It is my son's car now. My original 200D is still the most stable car in all weather conditions I have ever driven. But the SDL is sure nice! At 02:31 PM 4/5/2006, you wrote: Thanks for the encouragement. I've done quit a bit of riveting/peening too. Maybe I will try it when the chains get up to 5 degrees. GerryA - Original Message - From: Loren Faeth [EMAIL PROTECTED] It rivets the head. Having grown up riveting knives on sickle bars and riveting other things, I rivet the new style with a small ball peen hammer. I am old enough that i spent Jr. High shop peening aluminum, thereby having a first hand knowledge of how the hammer gets its name. I guess there were people who were not careful enough to get the clip snapped in properly, so the master link has been officially banned. I did them for years and never had one come apart, but i always checked my work to be sure the clip was clipped correctly, since it is critical. Since you also worked on OM 621 engines, I am sure you can rivet the link without the special tool. Loren -- Does the special tool rivet or brad the chains patch link together? The only one I've done; on a '67 200D; had a bicycle chain type patch link that snapped together without using a special tool. GerryA ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.1.385 / Virus Database: 268.3.5/301 - Release Date: 4/4/2006 ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
Re: [MBZ] Damn it's cold was veggie fuel
What do you mean by huge heat source? Are you referring to the hot air that comes out of Queen's Park? Randy B -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Jeff Zedic Sent: Wednesday, April 05, 2006 4:26 PM To: Mercedes Discussion List Subject: Re: [MBZ] Damn it's cold was veggie fuel The beauty of living in Toronto is that we have a huge heat source right at the south end of the city so even though we're farther north, we're almost always warmer than NYC 500 miles south! Buffalo on the other hand, is on the wrong side of the lake and gets 10 times the snow and cold that we do! Jeff Zedic Toronto ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
