Re: [MBZ] rusty turd

2007-01-07 Thread David Brodbeck
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 Kaleb
 I happen to like the Sears Bias Ply tires and snow tires on the rear. 

And the spare.  Hey, it's only flat on one side!




Re: [MBZ] Octane and detonation....

2007-01-07 Thread Royce Engler
Larry said...

You wrote about octane and detonation:
making it more likely to detonate rather than burn smoothly
across the chamber.  In essence you are adding a heavier component to make
it burn slower to reduce the problem of detonation

Hi Royce,
Is that your way of saying the higher octane detonates later and
therefore closer to the time when the piston reaches TDC - or almost? -
I'm assuming TDC is the best place to ignite the mixture for max HP and
other ignition points are preferable if lower emissions, etc are the
objective?
 

Hi Larry,
Bear in mind that I'm not an automotive engineer, and my petroleum
engineering experience was focused on how to get more of it out of the
ground.  Having said that, it is my understanding that the optimal way for
fuel to burn in the cylinder is for it to burn smoothly through the cylinder
space.  Detonation occurs when the fuel air mixture explodes...i.e. burns
in multiple places at the same time.  This can happen when the fuel mixture
contains components that ignite much like a diesel..i.e. it reaches a
combustion temperature and pressure and cooks off.  When that happens,
more of the fuel energy is converted to heat, rather than doing useful work
like driving the piston down.  A smooth combustion results in maximum energy
conversion from fuel energy to pressure energy.

I don't have the experience to say which ignition points are more
preferable, or where the optimal ignition point is in the cycleI was
just impressed by the concept that adding more heavy components would
improve performance by making the mixture burn more slowly   (-:.

Royce Engler

1985 300TD Turbo 293K








[MBZ] replacing fuel return lines

2007-01-07 Thread Allan Streib
Bought some new fuel return line from Rusty (the small diameter,
fabric-wrapped line that runs between the injectors) since several
sections of mine are damp with fuel.  It looks like this is just a
push-on fit, but I tugged at one and it did not pull off.  The fabric
seemed to be acting like a chinese finger handcuff -- tightening as I
pulled.  Do I need to cut off the old line, or is there some secret
technique to removing it?  Or just pull harder?

Allan
-- 
1983 300D
1966 230



Re: [MBZ] 220D doors

2007-01-07 Thread Jim Cathey

Explain Grays?  Both wing windows are there


Umm, they would be gray?  In color.


are 1972 model year doors in that nasty cream/white color.


And that would be the answer.  My doors are rusting badly,
but paint is outside of the realm of possibility.

I just parked it inside, for about the first time ever.
(On my watch.)  Had to do some serious rearrangement of
the garage again to get the 450 SL crosswise along the
front.

-- Jim




[MBZ] OT: Saab 96?

2007-01-07 Thread Curt Raymond
I know we talked about something like this some time ago but...

A guy I know has an old v4 Saab (four stroke), he thinks its a 95 but he also 
says its a sedan which makes me think its a 96. He's insistant its a v4 so I 
don't think its a 99.

Anyway he wants $600 for it, its supposed to be in good shape, no rust, running 
nice only problem being its a v4 Saab so nobody in central MA seems to want it, 
and the ignition is messed up so it needs to be hotwired to get it running.
We still need a car for my wife to keep her from running the 12mpg pickup. 
Anybody know what I could expect from a 95/96 as a daily driver? She only needs 
to go 20 miles a day.

Yeah yeah, I know its crazy, but for $600 I'm pretty much willing to give it a 
shot for a couple weeks anyway. If I've got it on the road I figure  it'll be 
easier to sell, and I've got contacts on the net maybe I can resell for a 
better price if it really is in decent shape.

-Curt

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Date: Sat, 6 Jan 2007 23:39:16 -0600
From: Zoltan Finks [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
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If you don't get any input here, let me know, and I can post some questions
to the Saab list if you'd like.

Brian


On 1/6/07, Curt Raymond [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 I know we talked about something like this some time ago but...

 A guy I know has an old v4 Saab (four stroke), he thinks its a 95 but he
 also says its a sedan which makes me think its a 96. He's insistant its a v4
 so I don't think its a 99.

 Anyway he wants $600 for it, its supposed to be in good shape, no rust,
 running nice only problem being its a v4 Saab so nobody in central MA seems
 to want it, and the ignition is messed up so it needs to be hotwired to get
 it running.
 We still need a car for my wife to keep her from running the 12mpg pickup.
 Anybody know what I could expect from a 95/96 as a daily driver? She only
 needs to go 20 miles a day.

 Yeah yeah, I know its crazy, but for $600 I'm pretty much willing to give
 it a shot for a couple weeks anyway. If I've got it on the road I
 figure  it'll be easier to sell, and I've got contacts on the net maybe I
 can resell for a better price if it really is in decent shape.

 -Curt

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Re: [MBZ] OT: Saab 96?

2007-01-07 Thread Sunil Hari

in a word, quirky.

On 1/7/07, Zoltan Finks [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


If you don't get any input here, let me know, and I can post some
questions
to the Saab list if you'd like.

Brian


On 1/6/07, Curt Raymond [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 I know we talked about something like this some time ago but...

 A guy I know has an old v4 Saab (four stroke), he thinks its a 95 but he
 also says its a sedan which makes me think its a 96. He's insistant its
a v4
 so I don't think its a 99.

 Anyway he wants $600 for it, its supposed to be in good shape, no rust,
 running nice only problem being its a v4 Saab so nobody in central MA
seems
 to want it, and the ignition is messed up so it needs to be hotwired to
get
 it running.
 We still need a car for my wife to keep her from running the 12mpg
pickup.
 Anybody know what I could expect from a 95/96 as a daily driver? She
only
 needs to go 20 miles a day.

 Yeah yeah, I know its crazy, but for $600 I'm pretty much willing to
give
 it a shot for a couple weeks anyway. If I've got it on the road I
 figure  it'll be easier to sell, and I've got contacts on the net maybe
I
 can resell for a better price if it really is in decent shape.

 -Curt

 __
 Do You Yahoo!?
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--
Sunil Hari
1992 300D 2.5T - 290Kmi.
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
513-205-7474


[MBZ] To start or to let slumber

2007-01-07 Thread Zoltan Finks

I know this was touched upon in fairly recent times, but bear with me.

Basic issue: It involves my 240D which I am not going to drive until
sometime this late Spring when all the salt/sand is off the roads

Would it be better for the vehicle's health if I started it periodically? If
so, how often?
- or -
Would it be better for the vehicle's health if I let it sit undisturbed
until I intend to actually drive it? And why would it be better?

Bear in mind that I do intend to tend the battery. But I do not intend to
do anything else, like drain the fuel tank (though I have put in some Heat
water remover).

Also, does letting it go a long time without starting allow air to enter the
fuel system in any way?

Brian
83 240D


Re: [MBZ] To start or to let slumber

2007-01-07 Thread Jim Cathey

Would it be better for the vehicle's health if I let it sit undisturbed
until I intend to actually drive it? And why would it be better?


That is a relatively short time, if inside especially, for anything
but the battery and the fuel tank.  And you have those covered.
I'm sure that'll be best for it.  If you don't run it for long
enough each time to completely cook combustion moisture out of
everything you'll do more harm than good.  And it takes quite an
idle to fully heat up, nor is extended idling particularly good
for it.

-- Jim




Re: [MBZ] replacing fuel return lines

2007-01-07 Thread Jim Cathey

seemed to be acting like a chinese finger handcuff -- tightening as I
pulled.  Do I need to cut off the old line, or is there some secret
technique to removing it?  Or just pull harder?


Brute force.  Just be sure not to nick or mar the hose fittings
when you do finally take pliers or a knife to it.

-- Jim




Re: [MBZ] Octane and detonation....

2007-01-07 Thread Jim Cathey
space.  Detonation occurs when the fuel air mixture explodes...i.e. 
burns
in multiple places at the same time.  This can happen when the fuel 
mixture

contains components that ignite much like a diesel..i.e. it reaches a
combustion temperature and pressure and cooks off.  When that 
happens,
more of the fuel energy is converted to heat, rather than doing useful 
work
like driving the piston down.  A smooth combustion results in maximum 
energy

conversion from fuel energy to pressure energy.


Heat _is_ what provides useful work.  But too fast/soon and it ends
up making cylinder pressure where the crankshaft can't extract the
energy from it, so that energy goes into beating the engine apart
instead.

-- Jim




Re: [MBZ] Octane and detonation....

2007-01-07 Thread Peter Frederick
Proper combustion in a spark ignition engine is for the spark to ignite 
the air/fuel mixture at the correct time for peak pressure to occur a 
few degrees after TDC, and for the fuel mixture to burn at the correct 
rate for the flame front to consume the vast majority of the fuel 
before being quenched by contact with the head, cylinder walls, or a 
space too small for the flame front to continue to propagate (the 
quench zone in a wedge head design).


The key here is that the combustion MUST be slow enough to produce a 
pulse of pressure that drives the piston down for as long as possible 
during the power stroke -- when combustion becomes too rapid, pressure 
and temperature rise too fast and the cylinder will become filled with 
a combustion gas mixture too hot for the materials.


Detonation is just that -- and explosion of the air/fuel mixture, 
usually not triggered by the timed ignition spark.  In the worst case, 
it is triggered by an overheated spark plug long enough before TDC to 
produce a very high temperature zone extending out from the spark plug, 
acting as a superheated torch.  The heat from the flame thus produced 
can burn a hole right through the pistons if the spark plug points at 
them -- this was a problem with Alfa Romeo twin-cam hemi-heads in the 
60s and 70s -- a tank full of regular gas and a highway run would 
produce holes in the pistons about 1/4 in diameter that looked as if 
machined there.  Nasty.


The overpressure before TDC from detonation (which cannot be heard at 
highway speeds, unlike spark knock or premature ignition) does a number 
of other bad things -- it can cause enough crankpin pressure to wipe 
the oil film off the crank journals, causing bearing failure, it can 
melt piston crowns (or drill holes in them into the crankcase), can 
seriously overheat valves, and can even cause flame cutting of piston 
rings, where the flame from detonation (again, usually extending 
straight out from the spark plug) can burn down the side of the piston 
and cause ring failure.


Not pretty.

Higher octane fuels indeed burn slower.  They are also harder to 
ignite, so are more resistant to compression ignition.  The slower 
combustion rate reduces the tendency to detonate, will reduce or 
eliminate premature combustion (spark knock), and lower peak 
temperatures and pressures while extending the high pressure duration 
during the power stroke.


Peter




Re: [MBZ] replacing fuel return lines

2007-01-07 Thread Peter Frederick
Take a pair of good needle nosed pliers a grip the line off-center so 
that it will tear off the nipple as you crush the part between the 
jaws.  A bit harder to describe than do, but what you want is to grab 
enough of the hose beside the nipple to cause it to fail without 
gouging into the nipple.


If the hose has become glassy and hard, crunch it off in a similar way, 
but check to make sure a chunk hasn't stuck somewhere and stayed on the 
nipple -- it will neatly slide the new hose open.


Don't try to just pull the hose off, you can bend the nipple.

Peter




Re: [MBZ] OT: Saab 96?

2007-01-07 Thread OK Don

What was the number of the Sonett? Mine had the V4 ---

--
OK Don, KD5NRO
Norman, OK
Even if you're on the right track, you'll get run over if you just
sit there.
Will Rogers
'90 300D, '87 300SDL, '81 240D, '78 450SLC, '97 Ply Grand Voyager



Re: [MBZ] replacing fuel return lines

2007-01-07 Thread OK Don

Slice through the fabric, but not all the way through the rubber line
- twist a lot, pull, etc. -

--
OK Don, KD5NRO
Norman, OK
Even if you're on the right track, you'll get run over if you just
sit there.
Will Rogers
'90 300D, '87 300SDL, '81 240D, '78 450SLC, '97 Ply Grand Voyager



Re: [MBZ] To start or to let slumber

2007-01-07 Thread David Brodbeck
Zoltan Finks wrote:
 Would it be better for the vehicle's health if I started it periodically? If
 so, how often?
 - or -
 Would it be better for the vehicle's health if I let it sit undisturbed
 until I intend to actually drive it? And why would it be better?

I vote for undisturbed.  Starting the engine and letting it idle
doesn't get the oil hot enough to cook off the water that's a byproduct
of the combustion process.  The result can be corrosion due to the oil
becoming acidic.  I would change the oil before parking it and then
leave it undisturbed.

As for the fuel tank, put in some fuel stabilizer and then fill it up.
Minimizing the amount of air in the tank will decrease the amount of
water that collects from condensation.

We're only talking a few months here, which isn't all that long to store
a car.  You probably don't need to take any other precautions, other
than putting some kind of trickle charger on the battery.  Make sure the
tires stay inflated, though; low tires will flat-spot badly in storage
and might be ruined.



Re: [MBZ] OT: Audi Allroad?

2007-01-07 Thread Zeitgeist

I ended up with a wrecked '89 Audi 90 Quattro (w/diff lock) that I picked up
for $250.  I stripped it down, and it needs a new front clip, but all the
damaged parts are bolt-on items, and can be easily found for cheap.  Didn't
hit the frame rails and just smacked the cam sprocket and auxilliary
radiator, which can be bipassed.  The interior is in wonderful shape, with
killer seats I wish could be adapted to fit my TD.  Should make a nice sub
$1k winter rig, as an interim solution until something better comes along.

On 1/1/07, Zeitgeist [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


I'm presently wrestling with the wife over which vehicle we'll get to
replace her aging 123 clunker.  She's adamantly convinced she needs an AWD
vehicle for her alpine-related program activities (x-country ski, hike,
snowshoe, etc.), but I think it's stoopid to lug all that 4WD stuff around
for the rest of the 99.% time you don't need it.  I don't think logic
is going to prevail, so...does anyone know much about the Audi Allroador A6 
Avant Quattro, etc.?  They seem like a nifty rig, if you're into that
sort of thing.



Casey
Olympia, WA
Biodiesel: I drive in a persistent vegetative state
'87 300TD intercooler/propane #22 0-60mph 7.3sec (220k)
'84 300D (218k)
Gashuffer:
'89 Vanagon Wolfsburg Edition (187K)
http://users.zhonka.net/zeitgeist/Misc/IMG_0171.JPG


Re: [MBZ] replacing fuel return lines

2007-01-07 Thread kevin kraly
I did have a time with a couple of them on my 300D and 300CD.  The 'cD had 
the worst ones which were TOTALLY dried out and broke into pieces at the 
slightest tug, of course, right at the barb!  I picked at them gently with a 
knife which did the trick.  There's no Diesel smell under the hood of the 
300SD, so she's good for now although I have enough line to do the job when 
the time comes.


Kevin in Hillsboro, OR
1983 300SD 265K miles, Ursula 





Re: [MBZ] OT: Audi Allroad?

2007-01-07 Thread kevin kraly
I ended up with a wrecked '89 Audi 90 Quattro (w/diff lock) that I picked up 
for $250.


Is this the one equipped with the 20 valve 5 banger?  I can always tell when 
one drives by, even the older 5000's.  Diesel content:  an Audi 5000 diesel 
sounds like a thrashing machine compared to a properly tuned Mercedes diesel 
engine.


Kevin in Hillsboro, OR
1983 300SD 265K miles, Ursula 





Re: [MBZ] OT: Saab 96?

2007-01-07 Thread Mitch Haley


OK Don wrote:
 
 What was the number of the Sonett? Mine had the V4 ---

I believe the wagon was the 95 and the sedan was the 96,
with the Sonnett III being 97. The early Sonnett may have
been 97 also. I thought the S-III (1970's) was a very cool
looking car, but the S-I (1960's) was just quirky.




Re: [MBZ] replacing fuel return lines

2007-01-07 Thread ts

Allan

a pair of 45 degree angle needle nose pliers is what I use.  Kind of use a 
grip, left and right spin, and pull move.  When they pop off try not to have 
the spaz reaction pliers kick  back and hit the little beveled ends o the 
injector nozzle.  Also check that your 17 mm nuts (?) of your hard line fuel 
rack are tight an not causing the false indication that the return lines are 
leaking.  I have had this happen to me in the past


Regards Tom Scordato
1979240D
- Original Message - 
From: Allan Streib [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Saturday, January 06, 2007 11:26 PM
Subject: [MBZ] replacing fuel return lines



Bought some new fuel return line from Rusty (the small diameter,
fabric-wrapped line that runs between the injectors) since several
sections of mine are damp with fuel.  It looks like this is just a
push-on fit, but I tugged at one and it did not pull off.  The fabric
seemed to be acting like a chinese finger handcuff -- tightening as I
pulled.  Do I need to cut off the old line, or is there some secret
technique to removing it?  Or just pull harder?

Allan
--
1983 300D
1966 230

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Re: [MBZ] Monovalve insert

2007-01-07 Thread Tom Hargrave
The valve uses an electromagnet to drive the plunger up  down. I wonder of
the thick steel washer is needed to complete the magnetic circuit? If so
then stainless steel will not work.

Thanks,
Tom Hargrave
www.kegkits.com
256-656-1924
 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Glenn M. Brown
Sent: Saturday, January 06, 2007 2:43 PM
To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: [MBZ] Monovalve insert

Re:
Message: 12
Date: Fri, 5 Jan 2007 22:48:21 -0800
From: Jim Cathey [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Monovalve insert
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII; format=flowed

 Of the three washers sitting on top of the monovalve insert shaft, I 
 had lost the 1st one in '96 but all seemed to work OK with just the 
 wavy steel washer and the wide, thick washer on top.  When I recently 
 replaced the monovalve insert, I found a thin washer to place on 1st 
 and on top of this placed the wavy steel washer and a wide thick 
 stainless washer.  The top seemed to sit on flush with the monovalve 
 housing prior to installing/tightening the four screws.  Results - 
 heat only in defrost mode, all other settings heat would disppear 
 suggesting...

Remember that the monovalve is a PWM device, and needs to move back
and forth up to about once a second (or a bit slower).  If the 'wrong'
washer business screws up its mechanical response time, either due to
sapping magnetic field or due to locating the guts of the monovalve
incorrectly, you could well get a valve that doesn't work right for
PWM but can let coolant through when completely unpowered (as it is
for DEFROST).

-- Jim?xml:namespace prefix = o ns =
urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office /


I just got back from taking the 300D for a ride to determine if the current
washer combination on the monovalve insert would get me back to regulated
heat (Note: The 1st washer replaces the original which I lost in '96 and is
a thin one I found at Sears, the 2nd washer is the standard wavy steel
washer which comes with the monovalve repair kit, and the top washer is the
original thick, wide steel washer).  Viola, I've got regulated heat again.
The only problem here is trying to understand why.  You see, all was working
OK with only the wavy steel washer and the original thick, wide steel washer
on top prior to the crack/tear in the neoprene diaphragm of the monovalve.
Since the original thick, wide steel washer on top was somewhat corroded, I
decided to replace this with a stainless washer when I replaced the
monovalve insert, but this replacement stainless washer wasn't exactly the
same size as the original.  After installing the first thin washer, which I
found at Sears, the wavy steel washer, and the stainless replacement washer
with the new monovalve insert, I had no regulated heat on a trip from Pbgh.
to Roch. and only had heat on the defrost setting.  I've now replaced the
replacement stainless top washer with the original steel top washer which I
POR-15nd*.  This combination appears to work and there doesn't seem to be
any leaks at the housing even though the top doesn't sit flush (~1/16?) on
the housing prior to tightening the four screws.  Here's the weird part:
 Thickness (mm)   ID (in.)   OD
(in.)
Original 1st (bottom) washer?  ??
Wavy steel (middle) washer 0.45   3/4 1 1/4
Original 3rd (top) washer*2.45   5/8 1 1/2
Sears thin washer (1st repl.)1.12   5/8 1
Stainless top (repl.) washer 25/8 1
3/8
Prior to the crack/tear in the neoprene diaphragm of the previous monovalve,
the washers in place total ~ 2.9mm and I had regulated heat prior to the
neoprene diaphragm cracking/tearing.  After replacing the monovalve insert
and using a different combination of washers totaling ~ 3.57mm, I had no
regulated heat and only had heat on the defrost setting.  The current
combination of washers installed total ~ 4.02mm and regulated heat appears
to be functioning properly.  Go figure.
G. M. Brown
Rochester, NY
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Re: [MBZ] Octane and detonation....

2007-01-07 Thread Royce Engler
Peter,

THANK YOU for that illuminating explanation.  I knew some of the basics, but
your explanation filled in a LOT of holeskind of a gestalt...to use the
German term ;-)

Royce Engler
1985 300TD Turbo 293K

-Original Message-
From: Peter Frederick [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Sunday, January 07, 2007 12:43 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List; [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Octane and detonation


Proper combustion in a spark ignition engine is for the spark to ignite
the air/fuel mixture at the correct time for peak pressure to occur a
few degrees after TDC, and for the fuel mixture to burn at the correct
rate for the flame front to consume the vast majority of the fuel
before being quenched by contact with the head, cylinder walls, or a
space too small for the flame front to continue to propagate (the
quench zone in a wedge head design).

The key here is that the combustion MUST be slow enough to produce a
pulse of pressure that drives the piston down for as long as possible
during the power stroke -- when combustion becomes too rapid, pressure
and temperature rise too fast and the cylinder will become filled with
a combustion gas mixture too hot for the materials.

Detonation is just that -- and explosion of the air/fuel mixture,
usually not triggered by the timed ignition spark.  In the worst case,
it is triggered by an overheated spark plug long enough before TDC to
produce a very high temperature zone extending out from the spark plug,
acting as a superheated torch.  The heat from the flame thus produced
can burn a hole right through the pistons if the spark plug points at
them -- this was a problem with Alfa Romeo twin-cam hemi-heads in the
60s and 70s -- a tank full of regular gas and a highway run would
produce holes in the pistons about 1/4 in diameter that looked as if
machined there.  Nasty.

The overpressure before TDC from detonation (which cannot be heard at
highway speeds, unlike spark knock or premature ignition) does a number
of other bad things -- it can cause enough crankpin pressure to wipe
the oil film off the crank journals, causing bearing failure, it can
melt piston crowns (or drill holes in them into the crankcase), can
seriously overheat valves, and can even cause flame cutting of piston
rings, where the flame from detonation (again, usually extending
straight out from the spark plug) can burn down the side of the piston
and cause ring failure.

Not pretty.

Higher octane fuels indeed burn slower.  They are also harder to
ignite, so are more resistant to compression ignition.  The slower
combustion rate reduces the tendency to detonate, will reduce or
eliminate premature combustion (spark knock), and lower peak
temperatures and pressures while extending the high pressure duration
during the power stroke.

Peter





[MBZ] OT Saab 96

2007-01-07 Thread Frederick W Moir

Hi, Curt.
IF the car is truly rost frei and the transmission shifts properly, 
the only other thing that might be needed is an exhaust. This is from 
memory and CRS is creeping up on me. I've had 2 stroke and V4 96 
sedans and a V4 95 wagon and a V4 97.  You met Luke once and he has a 
lot of very used Saab parts and 2 horrible 97's buried under his 
firewood. OCD. I loved my 66 V4 96 silver engine and my 67 95 blue 
engine cars. The 2 strokes were good esp. the Monte Carlo. Makes like 
a Yamaha-ha-ha-ha-ha-ha-ha-ha-ha-ha! (Sorry only 4 speed.).
No, I'm not nuts, it's just that I view the world from a slightly 
different angle!

Fred Moir
Lynn MA
Diesel diet only these days.





Re: [MBZ] Octane and detonation....

2007-01-07 Thread LarryT

Thanks Royce,
You wrote:Detonation occurs when the fuel air mixture explodes...i.e. 
burns
in multiple places at the same time.  This can happen when the fuel 
mixture

contains components that ignite much like a diesel..i.e. it reaches a
combustion temperature and pressure and cooks off.  


Detonation to me always meant: the fuel is compressed as the piston rises, 
and the pressure of the compression generates heat and ignites low octane 
fuels - which may be what you said in different wording.  This is why 
accurate valve adjustment and rings in good condition is so important in 
diesels.   Higher octane fuels resist this pre-ignition (as detonation is 
also called I believe) and allows higher compression and therefore higher 
horsepower.


What amazes me is how diesel is refined precisely so a pre-determined 
ignition can be obtained allowing diesel to be used on everything from a 
Peterbuilt to a Isuzu Diesel.  But I guess all diesels must operate at/near 
the same pressures.


Larry T (67 MGB, 74 911, 78 240D, 91 300D)
www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts
Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
PORSCHE POSTERS!  youroil.net
Weber Carb Info http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
Porsche Road Test http://members.rennlist.com/roadtest/
.
- Original Message - 
From: Royce Engler [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: LarryT [EMAIL PROTECTED]; Mercedes Discussion List 
mercedes@okiebenz.com

Sent: Saturday, January 06, 2007 10:41 PM
Subject: RE: [MBZ] Re: Octane and detonation



Larry said...

You wrote about octane and detonation:
making it more likely to detonate rather than burn smoothly
across the chamber.  In essence you are adding a heavier component to make
it burn slower to reduce the problem of detonation

Hi Royce,
   Is that your way of saying the higher octane detonates later and
therefore closer to the time when the piston reaches TDC - or almost? -
I'm assuming TDC is the best place to ignite the mixture for max HP and
other ignition points are preferable if lower emissions, etc are the
objective?


Hi Larry,
Bear in mind that I'm not an automotive engineer, and my petroleum
engineering experience was focused on how to get more of it out of the
ground.  Having said that, it is my understanding that the optimal way for
fuel to burn in the cylinder is for it to burn smoothly through the 
cylinder
space.  Detonation occurs when the fuel air mixture explodes...i.e. 
burns
in multiple places at the same time.  This can happen when the fuel 
mixture

contains components that ignite much like a diesel..i.e. it reaches a
combustion temperature and pressure and cooks off.  When that happens,
more of the fuel energy is converted to heat, rather than doing useful 
work
like driving the piston down.  A smooth combustion results in maximum 
energy

conversion from fuel energy to pressure energy.

I don't have the experience to say which ignition points are more
preferable, or where the optimal ignition point is in the cycleI was
just impressed by the concept that adding more heavy components would
improve performance by making the mixture burn more slowly   (-:.

Royce Engler

1985 300TD Turbo 293K







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Re: [MBZ] Octane and detonation....

2007-01-07 Thread LarryT

Thanks Peter - for that excellent explanation/

On a similar topic - when a cylinder head uses twin plugs - like some 
competition Porsches - when does the 2nd SP fire?  At the same time as the 
1st?  Slightly afterward?


Thx -

Larry T (67 MGB, 74 911, 78 240D, 91 300D)
www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts
Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
PORSCHE POSTERS!  youroil.net
Weber Carb Info http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
Porsche Road Test http://members.rennlist.com/roadtest/
.
- Original Message - 
From: Peter Frederick [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com; [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Sunday, January 07, 2007 1:43 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Octane and detonation



Proper combustion in a spark ignition engine is for the spark to ignite
the air/fuel mixture at the correct time for peak pressure to occur a
few degrees after TDC, and for the fuel mixture to burn at the correct
rate for the flame front to consume the vast majority of the fuel
before being quenched by contact with the head, cylinder walls, or a
space too small for the flame front to continue to propagate (the
quench zone in a wedge head design).

The key here is that the combustion MUST be slow enough to produce a
pulse of pressure that drives the piston down for as long as possible
during the power stroke -- when combustion becomes too rapid, pressure
and temperature rise too fast and the cylinder will become filled with
a combustion gas mixture too hot for the materials.

Detonation is just that -- and explosion of the air/fuel mixture,
usually not triggered by the timed ignition spark.  In the worst case,
it is triggered by an overheated spark plug long enough before TDC to
produce a very high temperature zone extending out from the spark plug,
acting as a superheated torch.  The heat from the flame thus produced
can burn a hole right through the pistons if the spark plug points at
them -- this was a problem with Alfa Romeo twin-cam hemi-heads in the
60s and 70s -- a tank full of regular gas and a highway run would
produce holes in the pistons about 1/4 in diameter that looked as if
machined there.  Nasty.

The overpressure before TDC from detonation (which cannot be heard at
highway speeds, unlike spark knock or premature ignition) does a number
of other bad things -- it can cause enough crankpin pressure to wipe
the oil film off the crank journals, causing bearing failure, it can
melt piston crowns (or drill holes in them into the crankcase), can
seriously overheat valves, and can even cause flame cutting of piston
rings, where the flame from detonation (again, usually extending
straight out from the spark plug) can burn down the side of the piston
and cause ring failure.

Not pretty.

Higher octane fuels indeed burn slower.  They are also harder to
ignite, so are more resistant to compression ignition.  The slower
combustion rate reduces the tendency to detonate, will reduce or
eliminate premature combustion (spark knock), and lower peak
temperatures and pressures while extending the high pressure duration
during the power stroke.

Peter


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Re: [MBZ] cheap 2.5 turbo

2007-01-07 Thread LarryT

You wrote:cheap 2.5 turbo

With over 8 days remaining, I doubt it'll be cheap for long.  ;-)

Larry T (67 MGB, 74 911, 78 240D, 91 300D)
www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts
Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
PORSCHE POSTERS!  youroil.net
Weber Carb Info http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
Porsche Road Test http://members.rennlist.com/roadtest/
.
- Original Message - 
From: Kaleb C. Striplin, Cox Auto Trader [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Saturday, January 06, 2007 3:50 PM
Subject: [MBZ] cheap 2.5 turbo



http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mercedes-Benz-300-Series-300D-DIESEL-1991-300D-DIESEL-SMOKE-FREE-in-FLORIDA-at-NO-RESERVE_W0QQitemZ330071864350QQihZ014QQcategoryZ6330QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
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Re: [MBZ] OT: Saab 96?

2007-01-07 Thread Frederick W Moir

Hi, OK Don, et al.
It was one of the first of the V4' Twos, red engine and nicely curved 
bodywork, not that angular POS Three that required keyhole surgery 
just to check to the oil. I had to do a clutch on a three, late model 
black engine, what a pain in the fundament! I was (much) younger then 
and drove aggressively, i.e. like a complete moron!

Fred Moir
Lynn MA

At 02:15 AM 1/7/2007, you wrote:

What was the number of the Sonett? Mine had the V4 ---

--
OK Don, KD5NRO
Norman, OK
Even if you're on the right track, you'll get run over if you just
sit there.
Will Rogers
'90 300D, '87 300SDL, '81 240D, '78 450SLC, '97 Ply Grand Voyager






Re: [MBZ] Octane and detonation....

2007-01-07 Thread Jim Cathey

What amazes me is how diesel is refined precisely so a pre-determined
ignition can be obtained allowing diesel to be used on everything from 
a
Peterbuilt to a Isuzu Diesel.  But I guess all diesels must operate 
at/near

the same pressures.


Ha!  Precise refining?  How about thinly-strained dinosaur?  At least,
that's how it used to be when diesel engines were first deployed.  
That's

the beauty of injecting fuel only when you're ready for it to burn.
No detonation at all, all you need is enough compression, and extra
doesn't really hurt.  (Except mechanically.)  Hence the 1-4 atm. of
turbo pressure in turbodiesels.

-- Jim




Re: [MBZ] OT: Audi Allroad?

2007-01-07 Thread Jim Cathey
one drives by, even the older 5000's.  Diesel content:  an Audi 5000 
diesel
sounds like a thrashing machine compared to a properly tuned Mercedes 
diesel


Freudian slip?  Probably you meant threshing machine, but I kind of
like the mental picture I got from what you said!

-- Jim




Re: [MBZ] Octane and detonation....

2007-01-07 Thread Peter Frederick
Ah, but there is no fuel in the cylinder until the injection pump 
fires it in!  This is the secret of diesels, and the basis of R. 
Diesels patents.


Lister cylcle engines use compression ignition by atomizing diesel fuel 
into the air and igniting it by compression of the mixture AND a spark, 
not by injection, which is why they must be started on gasoline with a 
spark ignition.  Low compression, to say the least.


Diesels WILL run with a fuel/air mix, but there is no control over the 
ignition timing that way.  I know at least one person who had a VW 
diesel get return holes in the head plugged up, and when the oil filled 
the valve cover and spilled over into the intake on the highway had 
QUITE a full throttle run until it all burned out


Peter




[MBZ] [Fwd: [Banned] Kaleb's long lost Uncle's Estate]

2007-01-07 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin

check this out

 Original Message 
Subject: [Banned] Kaleb's long lost Uncle's Estate
Date: Sat, 6 Jan 2007 19:48:35 EST
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Reply-To: Banned List [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]

_Click  here: MillerAuction_
(http://coolcatcorp.com/millerauction/MillerAuction.html)


I would have like to have known these people before it was too late. The
Soviet State wound up with most of the wealth.
 John Gregg
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--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 (2x) 91 300D 2.5 Turbo, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL,
 87 300SDL, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 84 190D 2.2,
 81 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250
http://www.striplin.net



Re: [MBZ] Octane and detonation....

2007-01-07 Thread Peter Frederick
That I do not know -- I would GUESS that the most ignitable portion of 
the fuel/air mix is in different locations in the cylinder under 
different operating condition, and low power output/miss is a result 
with a single plug.  There might also be a quench area that prevents 
proper flame propagation, or the chamber may simple be too large for a 
single flame front to burn all the fuel in the correct time frame (this 
is why, I think, that aircraft engines had 4 plugs per cylinder -- 4360 
ci x 32 cylinders -- pretty big jugs!).


I would assume they fire at the same time, but don't know that for a 
fact.


Peter
On Jan 7, 2007, at 9:48 AM, LarryT wrote:


Thanks Peter - for that excellent explanation/

On a similar topic - when a cylinder head uses twin plugs - like some
competition Porsches - when does the 2nd SP fire?  At the same time as 
the

1st?  Slightly afterward?

Thx -

Larry T (67 MGB, 74 911, 78 240D, 91 300D)





Re: [MBZ] OT: Audi Allroad?

2007-01-07 Thread Peter Frederick
Yeah, those Audi/VW/Volvo diesel are noisy, especially at idle.  The 
worst offender is actually the vaccum pump, as the operating rod is in 
two parts.  They clack.  It also has much more combustion noise, as the 
prechambers are much smaller and more open.


It does turn out quite a bit of power, though, and is higher 
compression (105 hp on 2.4L) -- factory compression is supposed to be 
23:1, but with manufacturing variables, it tends to run a big high -- 
sometimes 26:1 on a new engine.  Turbo boost is fairly low (10.5 psi 
limit).


Volvo makes marine engines with similar high compression and output -- 
great fun to read the specifications as they weigh quite a bit less and 
are somewhat smaller than the equivalent Detroits.


Peter




Re: [MBZ] [Fwd: [Banned] Kaleb's long lost Uncle's Estate]

2007-01-07 Thread Steve MacSween
OMG and my neighbours think I'M bad

That is fascinating but very, very sad.

Mac

on 1/7/07 11:58 AM, Kaleb C. Striplin at [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 check this out
 
  Original Message 
 Subject: [Banned] Kaleb's long lost Uncle's Estate
 Date: Sat, 6 Jan 2007 19:48:35 EST
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Reply-To: Banned List [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 
 _Click  here: MillerAuction_
 (http://coolcatcorp.com/millerauction/MillerAuction.html)
 
 
 I would have like to have known these people before it was too late. The
 Soviet State wound up with most of the wealth.
 John Gregg
 ___
 http://www.okiebenz.com
 For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
 For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 
 To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
 http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/banned_okiebenz.com
 
 
 
 




Re: [MBZ] cheap 2.5 turbo

2007-01-07 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin
probably not.  The most disturbing part of the car though is this model 
is prewired for CD changer in the trunk.  Why on earth would somebody 
rip out the factory head unit and install that crappy aftermarket radio?


LarryT wrote:


You wrote:cheap 2.5 turbo

With over 8 days remaining, I doubt it'll be cheap for long.  ;-)

Larry T (67 MGB, 74 911, 78 240D, 91 300D)
www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts
Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
PORSCHE POSTERS!  youroil.net
Weber Carb Info http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
Porsche Road Test http://members.rennlist.com/roadtest/
.
- Original Message - 
From: Kaleb C. Striplin, Cox Auto Trader [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Saturday, January 06, 2007 3:50 PM
Subject: [MBZ] cheap 2.5 turbo




http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mercedes-Benz-300-Series-300D-DIESEL-1991-300D-DIESEL-SMOKE-FREE-in-FLORIDA-at-NO-RESERVE_W0QQitemZ330071864350QQihZ014QQcategoryZ6330QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
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--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 (2x) 91 300D 2.5 Turbo, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL,
 87 300SDL, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 84 190D 2.2,
 81 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250
http://www.striplin.net



Re: [MBZ] Octane and detonation....

2007-01-07 Thread Chris Kueny
If I were Kaleb, I would preface this with 'Bzzzt, wrong.'  But I am not so 
I won't.


The Lister engines available from India today use no spark.  You  open a 
valve to relieve compression, turn the heavy flywheel until you get some 
stored inertial energy, close the valve and open the fuel start injecting 
fuel.  Keep turning the wheel until it starts.  No gasoline, no spark.  I 
hope to get one once I have a spare $1500, engine hoist, and coupla weeks 
for a new hobby.  Paired with a gen head, and running on 50-50 
diesel/recycled veggie oil, you could save a bit on electricity.  If we had 
net billing here.

See www.utterpower.comfor all the details.

Chris K
Cayce, SC






Lister cylcle engines use compression ignition by atomizing diesel fuel
into the air and igniting it by compression of the mixture AND a spark,
not by injection, which is why they must be started on gasoline with a
spark ignition.  Low compression, to say the least.






Re: [MBZ] cheap 2.5 turbo

2007-01-07 Thread LarryT
you wrote:Why on earth would somebody rip out the factory head unit and 
install that crappy aftermarket radio


Couldn't agree more!  Actually, I'm fighting a similar problem w/my 91.  I 
want a changer and bought one that needed repair.  It's been with SW Stereo 
since last July waiting for parts.  He's really an expert on these Becker 
systems and I've run a few different scenarios past him trying to find a 
workable alternative that would provide equal sound quality.  I considered 
buying a new dash unit and changer to go with it - but that would mean 
running all new speaker wires and a new antenna wire - with another one to 
the dash if I want the on/off to actuate the antenna.  He said the head unit 
is basically a tape deck and some wiring - with the tuner and amp in the 
trunk.  It's high quality fir circa 1991 so I would gain quality if I wanted 
to buy all new stuff and spend the few hours running wiring.  I don;t, so 
I'll wait for the changer to be rebuilt.


Not sure why Becker had to go with the trunk mounted amp  tuner - all the 
other systems managed to put quality in the dash -


The bad thing is the Becker Silverstone CD Changers are becoming difficult 
to find - and parts take a long time to locate.  Becker doesn;t make or 
stock any spare parts any more.


Oh well.
Larry T (67 MGB, 74 911, 78 240D, 91 300D)
www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts
Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
PORSCHE POSTERS!  youroil.net
Weber Carb Info http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
Porsche Road Test http://members.rennlist.com/roadtest/
.
- Original Message - 
From: Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Sunday, January 07, 2007 12:10 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] cheap 2.5 turbo



probably not.  The most disturbing part of the car though is this model
is prewired for CD changer in the trunk.  Why on earth would somebody
rip out the factory head unit and install that crappy aftermarket radio?

LarryT wrote:


You wrote:cheap 2.5 turbo

With over 8 days remaining, I doubt it'll be cheap for long.  ;-)

Larry T (67 MGB, 74 911, 78 240D, 91 300D)
www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts
Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
PORSCHE POSTERS!  youroil.net
Weber Carb Info http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
Porsche Road Test http://members.rennlist.com/roadtest/
.
- Original Message - 
From: Kaleb C. Striplin, Cox Auto Trader [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Saturday, January 06, 2007 3:50 PM
Subject: [MBZ] cheap 2.5 turbo




http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mercedes-Benz-300-Series-300D-DIESEL-1991-300D-DIESEL-SMOKE-FREE-in-FLORIDA-at-NO-RESERVE_W0QQitemZ330071864350QQihZ014QQcategoryZ6330QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
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--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 (2x) 91 300D 2.5 Turbo, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL,
 87 300SDL, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 84 190D 2.2,
 81 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250
http://www.striplin.net

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Re: [MBZ] cheap 2.5 turbo

2007-01-07 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin
Well you dont need a becker silverstone changer, the alpine 611 and 
several others will work just fine with the becker system.  You have to 
get a coupld of adapter from PIE but thats no big deal.


LarryT wrote:
you wrote:Why on earth would somebody rip out the factory head unit and 
install that crappy aftermarket radio


Couldn't agree more!  Actually, I'm fighting a similar problem w/my 91.  I 
want a changer and bought one that needed repair.  It's been with SW Stereo 
since last July waiting for parts.  He's really an expert on these Becker 
systems and I've run a few different scenarios past him trying to find a 
workable alternative that would provide equal sound quality.  I considered 
buying a new dash unit and changer to go with it - but that would mean 
running all new speaker wires and a new antenna wire - with another one to 
the dash if I want the on/off to actuate the antenna.  He said the head unit 
is basically a tape deck and some wiring - with the tuner and amp in the 
trunk.  It's high quality fir circa 1991 so I would gain quality if I wanted 
to buy all new stuff and spend the few hours running wiring.  I don;t, so 
I'll wait for the changer to be rebuilt.


Not sure why Becker had to go with the trunk mounted amp  tuner - all the 
other systems managed to put quality in the dash -


The bad thing is the Becker Silverstone CD Changers are becoming difficult 
to find - and parts take a long time to locate.  Becker doesn;t make or 
stock any spare parts any more.


Oh well.
Larry T (67 MGB, 74 911, 78 240D, 91 300D)
www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts
Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
PORSCHE POSTERS!  youroil.net
Weber Carb Info http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
Porsche Road Test http://members.rennlist.com/roadtest/
.
- Original Message - 
From: Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Sunday, January 07, 2007 12:10 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] cheap 2.5 turbo




probably not.  The most disturbing part of the car though is this model
is prewired for CD changer in the trunk.  Why on earth would somebody
rip out the factory head unit and install that crappy aftermarket radio?

LarryT wrote:



You wrote:cheap 2.5 turbo

With over 8 days remaining, I doubt it'll be cheap for long.  ;-)

Larry T (67 MGB, 74 911, 78 240D, 91 300D)
www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts
Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
PORSCHE POSTERS!  youroil.net
Weber Carb Info http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
Porsche Road Test http://members.rennlist.com/roadtest/
.
- Original Message - 
From: Kaleb C. Striplin, Cox Auto Trader [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Saturday, January 06, 2007 3:50 PM
Subject: [MBZ] cheap 2.5 turbo





http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mercedes-Benz-300-Series-300D-DIESEL-1991-300D-DIESEL-SMOKE-FREE-in-FLORIDA-at-NO-RESERVE_W0QQitemZ330071864350QQihZ014QQcategoryZ6330QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
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--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
(2x) 91 300D 2.5 Turbo, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL,
87 300SDL, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 84 190D 2.2,
81 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250
http://www.striplin.net

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--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 (2x) 91 300D 2.5 Turbo, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL,
 87 300SDL, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 84 190D 2.2,
 81 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250
http://www.striplin.net



[MBZ] Brake Calipers

2007-01-07 Thread LarryT
Well, after examining my rear calipers and finding both had damaged bleed 
screws I decided to look at the front calipers.  Sure enough, the flats in 
the hex were damaged by what appears to have been pliers (!!).  So, I tried 
to unscrew them - got a wrench on them and tapped it with a very small 
hammer - slowly.  Sure enough, just when I thought they had broken loose 
then broke where they enter the caliper.  #!!#$%##  Says I.   Seems the same 
monkey who worked on the rear brakes had been turned loose on the front 
brakes with a pair of pliers.  Why someone without proper tools to 
open/close the bleeder would need to open and close the bleeders is beyond 
me.  Changing fluid?  Scarey.  Oh well.  I guess worse has happened to 
others -


So, now I can either try to remove what's left of the bleed screws or save 
myself the hassle and install new or rebuilt calipers.


Larry T (67 MGB, 74 911, 78 240D, 91 300D)
www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts
Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
PORSCHE POSTERS!  youroil.net
Weber Carb Info http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
Porsche Road Test http://members.rennlist.com/roadtest/
. 





Re: [MBZ] cheap 2.5 turbo

2007-01-07 Thread LarryT
OK - Thanks!  I'll contact PIE tomorrow and see how much a adapter will 
cost.


Thanks again.  BTW, is the Alpine 611 a current changer?  Or has it been out 
for a while ?


Hope, at last!  ;-)

Larry T (67 MGB, 74 911, 78 240D, 91 300D)
www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts
Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
PORSCHE POSTERS!  youroil.net
Weber Carb Info http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
Porsche Road Test http://members.rennlist.com/roadtest/
.
- Original Message - 
From: Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Sunday, January 07, 2007 1:17 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] cheap 2.5 turbo



Well you dont need a becker silverstone changer, the alpine 611 and
several others will work just fine with the becker system.  You have to
get a coupld of adapter from PIE but thats no big deal.

LarryT wrote:

you wrote:Why on earth would somebody rip out the factory head unit and
install that crappy aftermarket radio

Couldn't agree more!  Actually, I'm fighting a similar problem w/my 91. 
I
want a changer and bought one that needed repair.  It's been with SW 
Stereo

since last July waiting for parts.  He's really an expert on these Becker
systems and I've run a few different scenarios past him trying to find a
workable alternative that would provide equal sound quality.  I 
considered

buying a new dash unit and changer to go with it - but that would mean
running all new speaker wires and a new antenna wire - with another one 
to
the dash if I want the on/off to actuate the antenna.  He said the head 
unit

is basically a tape deck and some wiring - with the tuner and amp in the
trunk.  It's high quality fir circa 1991 so I would gain quality if I 
wanted

to buy all new stuff and spend the few hours running wiring.  I don;t, so
I'll wait for the changer to be rebuilt.

Not sure why Becker had to go with the trunk mounted amp  tuner - all 
the

other systems managed to put quality in the dash -

The bad thing is the Becker Silverstone CD Changers are becoming 
difficult

to find - and parts take a long time to locate.  Becker doesn;t make or
stock any spare parts any more.

Oh well.
Larry T (67 MGB, 74 911, 78 240D, 91 300D)
www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts
Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
PORSCHE POSTERS!  youroil.net
Weber Carb Info http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
Porsche Road Test http://members.rennlist.com/roadtest/
.
- Original Message - 
From: Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Sunday, January 07, 2007 12:10 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] cheap 2.5 turbo




probably not.  The most disturbing part of the car though is this model
is prewired for CD changer in the trunk.  Why on earth would somebody
rip out the factory head unit and install that crappy aftermarket radio?

LarryT wrote:



You wrote:cheap 2.5 turbo

With over 8 days remaining, I doubt it'll be cheap for long.  ;-)

Larry T (67 MGB, 74 911, 78 240D, 91 300D)
www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts
Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
PORSCHE POSTERS!  youroil.net
Weber Carb Info http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
Porsche Road Test http://members.rennlist.com/roadtest/
.
- Original Message - 
From: Kaleb C. Striplin, Cox Auto Trader [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Saturday, January 06, 2007 3:50 PM
Subject: [MBZ] cheap 2.5 turbo





http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mercedes-Benz-300-Series-300D-DIESEL-1991-300D-DIESEL-SMOKE-FREE-in-FLORIDA-at-NO-RESERVE_W0QQitemZ330071864350QQihZ014QQcategoryZ6330QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
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--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
(2x) 91 300D 2.5 Turbo, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL,
87 300SDL, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 84 190D 2.2,
81 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250
http://www.striplin.net

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Re: [MBZ] OT: Audi Allroad?

2007-01-07 Thread Mitch Haley


Peter Frederick wrote:
 It does turn out quite a bit of power, though, and is higher
 compression (105 hp on 2.4L) 

Is that the six cylinder?
105hp won't keep up with the BMW 2.4L, or a MBZ 602 five cyl.
I have seen a Volvo in one of the Finns' videos which seems
to be about as fast as the 603 in a W201 hot rods, mainly because
it launches harder. 

Mitch.




Re: [MBZ] Brake Calipers

2007-01-07 Thread E M

Did you heat the fronts up frist?  I know that feeling all to well, when you
think it breaks free, only to have the head of the nut or whatever fall off
in your hand. :-)  Don't you just love fixing cars in the winter. hee hee

Zeb

On 07/01/07, LarryT [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


Well, after examining my rear calipers and finding both had damaged bleed
screws I decided to look at the front calipers.  Sure enough, the flats in
the hex were damaged by what appears to have been pliers (!!).  So, I
tried
to unscrew them - got a wrench on them and tapped it with a very small
hammer - slowly.  Sure enough, just when I thought they had broken loose
then broke where they enter the caliper.  #!!#$%##  Says I.   Seems the
same
monkey who worked on the rear brakes had been turned loose on the front
brakes with a pair of pliers.  Why someone without proper tools to
open/close the bleeder would need to open and close the bleeders is beyond
me.  Changing fluid?  Scarey.  Oh well.  I guess worse has happened to
others -

So, now I can either try to remove what's left of the bleed screws or save
myself the hassle and install new or rebuilt calipers.

Larry T (67 MGB, 74 911, 78 240D, 91 300D)
www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts
Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
PORSCHE POSTERS!  youroil.net
Weber Carb Info http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
Porsche Road Test http://members.rennlist.com/roadtest/
.


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Re: [MBZ] Brake Calipers

2007-01-07 Thread Mitch Haley


LarryT wrote:
  I tried to unscrew them - got a wrench on them and tapped it with a very 
 small hammer - slowly.  Sure enough, just when I thought they had broken
 loose then broke where they enter the caliper.  #!!#$%##  Says I.

You did hammer on them (like pounding in nails) to knock them loose
before you tried to turn them, didn't you?

Mitch.




Re: [MBZ] OT: Audi Allroad?

2007-01-07 Thread Peter Frederick
Yup.  With the manual 5-speed its a racer, with the auto it's a bit 
slow off the line, then pulls pretty hard.  Smokey, though -- no one 
will every wonder if you have your foot in it or not.


1983 design.

It's not been running for the last couple years -- wont' start, I think 
I need the IP done again (the real weak part of this engine), and it 
has 220,000 miles on it now.


Best car I ever had for highway travel -- tremendous power on the 
interstate at 70, effortless driving, and 31 mpg.  Big seats, too.


Peter




Re: [MBZ] OT: Saab 96?

2007-01-07 Thread OK Don

I had a '74 Sonett III -- had to replace the heads shortly after I
bought it - yes, keyhole surgery is a good description! Other than the
two cracked heads, the only problem I had with the car was the water
temp activated automatic choke. It was a blast to drive - though it
would have been even more fun with one of those turbo charged in-line
fours!

I was asking if it was a 94, 95, 96, 97, or what. Someone ID'd it as a 97.


--
OK Don, KD5NRO
Norman, OK
Even if you're on the right track, you'll get run over if you just
sit there.
Will Rogers
'90 300D, '87 300SDL, '81 240D, '78 450SLC, '97 Ply Grand Voyager



Re: [MBZ] Octane and detonation....

2007-01-07 Thread OK Don

The Jacobs R755 that was in Dad's Cessna 195 had two plugs per
cylinder. Each set of plugs were fired by a seperate magnito - and
they were timed about two degrees apart, IIRC. The left mag at 6
degrees BTDC, and the right mag at 8 degrees BTDC, for example. I
don't remember the exact specs. During the pre-take-off engine run-up
and check, you switched from both mags, to left only then right only
and watched the RPM drops. One mag dropped a little more than the
other.

On 1/7/07, Peter Frederick [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

That I do not know -- I would GUESS that the most ignitable portion of
the fuel/air mix is in different locations in the cylinder under
different operating condition, and low power output/miss is a result
with a single plug.  There might also be a quench area that prevents
proper flame propagation, or the chamber may simple be too large for a
single flame front to burn all the fuel in the correct time frame (this
is why, I think, that aircraft engines had 4 plugs per cylinder -- 4360
ci x 32 cylinders -- pretty big jugs!).

I would assume they fire at the same time, but don't know that for a
fact.



--
OK Don, KD5NRO
Norman, OK
Even if you're on the right track, you'll get run over if you just
sit there.
Will Rogers
'90 300D, '87 300SDL, '81 240D, '78 450SLC, '97 Ply Grand Voyager



Re: [MBZ] OT: Saab 96?

2007-01-07 Thread Mitch Haley


OK Don wrote:
 
 I had a '74 Sonett III --  It was a blast to drive - though it
 would have been even more fun with one of those turbo charged in-line
 fours!

That would be a huge undertaking, and probably involve a substantial
hood bulge. The 2.8L Ford Capri V-6 bolted right up, just had
to find someplace else to put the radiator. Seems like there was
room in the nose, I've seen air conditioned Sonnett IIIs with the
condenser up front. Back in the day, there were a lot of performance
parts for the 2.8, but now it might be easier to find a rally cam
for the 1.7.




[MBZ] Here's a nice 114

2007-01-07 Thread Donald Snook
Ebay Item # 260073393513   

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/45k-ORIGINAL-MILES-PRICE-TO-SELL-THE-BEST
_W0QQitemZ260073393513QQihZ016QQcategoryZ6329QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

 

 

Donald H. Snook

1990 300SEL 133K 



Re: [MBZ] Octane and detonation....

2007-01-07 Thread David Brodbeck
Peter Frederick wrote:
 Diesels WILL run with a fuel/air mix, but there is no control over the 
 ignition timing that way.  I know at least one person who had a VW 
 diesel get return holes in the head plugged up, and when the oil filled 
 the valve cover and spilled over into the intake on the highway had 
 QUITE a full throttle run until it all burned out


That sometimes happens with VW diesels when they get bad rings, too.
The blowby can drive enough oil mist through the valve cover breather
vent and into the intake to cause runaway.  Some of VW's gas engines
have a plastic baffle between the cam and valve cover.  Retrofitting
that helps keep the oil out of the breather.

Propane injection is used by hot-rodders to increase power on diesels,
these days.  The propane is mixed with the intake air, and it ignites
with the diesel fuel when injection occurs.



Re: [MBZ] [Fwd: [Banned] Kaleb's long lost Uncle's Estate]

2007-01-07 Thread Rich Thomas
Yeah, right -- you KNOW that is what we all aspire to.  But also maybe a 
heated shed to work on them.


--R

Steve MacSween wrote:

OMG and my neighbours think I'M bad

That is fascinating but very, very sad.

Mac

  
  





Re: [MBZ] OT: Audi Allroad?

2007-01-07 Thread kevin kraly
Ah, THRESHING machine would describe it perfectly!  I haven't heard one of 
them 5000D's in quite a while, maybe they've all hit the boneyard by now. 
MB content:  Of course, there are plenty of MB diesels around, and I hope 
that this is the case for many years to come.


Kevin in Hillsboro, OR
1983 300SD 265K miles, Ursula 





Re: [MBZ] Octane and detonation....

2007-01-07 Thread Peter Frederick
On high compression diesels (above 19:1), propane can ignite BEFORE the 
fuel is injected if the mixture is rich enough to be burnable.  I would 
not recommend propane fumigation on anything with a compression ratio 
above 16:1 nor under high load with a turbocharger running, the risk of 
premature ignition (which will be much like detonation) is too high.


Peter
On Jan 7, 2007, at 2:04 PM, David Brodbeck wrote:


Peter Frederick wrote:

Diesels WILL run with a fuel/air mix, but there is no control over the
ignition timing that way.  I know at least one person who had a VW
diesel get return holes in the head plugged up, and when the oil 
filled

the valve cover and spilled over into the intake on the highway had
QUITE a full throttle run until it all burned out



That sometimes happens with VW diesels when they get bad rings, too.
The blowby can drive enough oil mist through the valve cover breather
vent and into the intake to cause runaway.  Some of VW's gas engines
have a plastic baffle between the cam and valve cover.  Retrofitting
that helps keep the oil out of the breather.

Propane injection is used by hot-rodders to increase power on diesels,
these days.  The propane is mixed with the intake air, and it ignites
with the diesel fuel when injection occurs.

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Re: [MBZ] replacing fuel return lines

2007-01-07 Thread Curt Raymond

I delayed in doing them on my 190D when they were merely seeping and then got 
to do them when one fell off...
That one got held back on with a zip tie so I could make it home. All the 
others were ready to fall off.

-Curt

Date: Sun, 7 Jan 2007 00:49:01 -0800
From: kevin kraly [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [MBZ] replacing fuel return lines
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset=iso-8859-1;
 reply-type=original

I did have a time with a couple of them on my 300D and 300CD.  The 'cD 
had 
the worst ones which were TOTALLY dried out and broke into pieces at 
the 
slightest tug, of course, right at the barb!  I picked at them gently 
with a 
knife which did the trick.  There's no Diesel smell under the hood of 
the 
300SD, so she's good for now although I have enough line to do the job 
when 
the time comes.

Kevin in Hillsboro, OR
1983 300SD 265K miles, Ursula 

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Got to see the car today, quirky is just right.
I was surprised how peppy it felt for being such a small engine, of course the 
whole car brings tiny to a new (small) level.
According to the folks on Saabnet I should be able to see 25mpg which is what I 
was looking for, however this car is decidedly not.

Parking brake doesn't work (no big deal) and the underside appears to be 
totally rotten (major big problem).

If it weren't for the major underside rust I might be interested. I still 
might, its at a friend's place (not the seller's) and I may go back Wednesday 
and give it another hard look. It could be what I thought was major rot is just 
one bad rocker but I doubt it.

That and a column shift... Wow, I *thought* I knew how to work one of those...

-Curt

Date: Sun, 07 Jan 2007 10:39:26 -0500
From: Frederick W Moir [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [MBZ] OT Saab 96
To: Mercedes mercedes@okiebenz.com
Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed

Hi, Curt.
IF the car is truly rost frei and the transmission shifts properly, 
the only other thing that might be needed is an exhaust. This is from 
memory and CRS is creeping up on me. I've had 2 stroke and V4 96 
sedans and a V4 95 wagon and a V4 97.  You met Luke once and he has a 
lot of very used Saab parts and 2 horrible 97's buried under his 
firewood. OCD. I loved my 66 V4 96 silver engine and my 67 95 blue 
engine cars. The 2 strokes were good esp. the Monte Carlo. Makes like 
a Yamaha-ha-ha-ha-ha-ha-ha-ha-ha-ha! (Sorry only 4 speed.).
No, I'm not nuts, it's just that I view the world from a slightly 
different angle!
Fred Moir
Lynn MA
Diesel diet only these days.







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Re: [MBZ] Trying out 0Wxx Mobil 1

2007-01-07 Thread John W. Reames III
On Fri, 5 Jan 2007, Zoltan Finks wrote:

 Yup. I know pumping is bad - my foot just wants to do it. I'ts like, come
 on, baby, you can do it!
 
 Yes, starting is an emotional thing with me ;) - nothing worse to me than
 the sound of the starter running slower and slower. Need to get over it - I
 know.

Yep, tho consider when you pump it you throw the pump into WoT and it 
starts dumping lots of fuel in the cylinders. This can make it REAL hard 
to start (when you DO get it to start after pumping you will be rewarded 
with a massive coloud of smoke, possibly blue/grey or maybe black 
depending upon how cold it is outside.

-j.





Re: [MBZ] Brake Calipers

2007-01-07 Thread Mitch Haley


Zoltan Finks wrote:
 
 Is this a just kidding, or do you mean it literally? Just curious for
 future reference.

It's one of the things you do to try to break a bleeder loose before
applying enough twisting force to break it in half.




Re: [MBZ] Brake Calipers

2007-01-07 Thread David Brodbeck
Zoltan Finks wrote:
 Is this a just kidding, or do you mean it literally? Just curious for
 future reference.

It really does seem to help to tap on the end of a rusty bolt for a
while with a hammer.  It breaks the rust bonds, or wakes up the sleeping
thread demons, or something.



Re: [MBZ] OT: Audi Allroad?

2007-01-07 Thread Frederick W Moir

Threshing, thrashing?
Gee!
I thought that the back seat of an Audi was the perfect place to find 
a Lesser spotted double breasted mattress thrasher!

Fred Moir
Lynn MA
Please don't throw things.

At 03:27 PM 1/7/2007, you wrote:

Actually farmers regularly call threshing thrashing which is 
really what it is...


-Curt







Re: [MBZ] Brake Calipers

2007-01-07 Thread LarryT
Yep. Did that first.  But honestly, the bleeders were so buggered up I was 
afraid they'd crumble.


Now that I've had a while to think things over, I think I'll remove the 
calipers and try to drill the bleeder out.  If I drill it with a bit about 
75% of the OD of the bleeder it'll probably loosen the screw enough so it;ll 
back out manually.  I've been able in the past to drive a Phillips 
screwdriver into the remnants of the screw and turn it slowly back out.


Then, if I damage the threads so I cannot use the bleed screw reliably, I'll 
order a new caliper.  My wife can drive her pickup or the 240D to work if 
need be.


re about hitting a frozen fastner with a hammer - it is hope that will break 
the bond between the threads on the fastener  those on the base material. 
As I mentioned above, the bleed screws are pretty badly damaged - not only 
were they tightened with (I think) pliers or Vise Grips. they appear to have 
over 100ft #'s of torque on them!  I even tried using a flat chisel to try 
to get the screw to break loose and turn a little.  No way.  Didn't budge 
a bit - all I did was damage it more.  I'll wait until I feel like removing 
the caliper - which looks to ba *another frigging* challenge.  the rubber 
hose connection at the chassis looks to have damaged fasteners also.  I'm 
hoping they'll break loose easier than the bleeders - I already have new 
hoses - and I know I need to replace the metal tubing at the rear - not 
crazy about fabbing new lines for the front also  but I may have to.


When I'm done all 4 brakes - and the whole brake system - will be like new - 
not going to put up with this crap.  Fortunately, I have a garage to work 
in.  ;-)


Thanks for all the comments - very helpful.  It's great to have access to so 
many experienced people who have come up with so ways to fix things when 
they only had themselves to depend on.


Larry T (67 MGB, 74 911, 78 240D, 91 300D)
www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts
Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
PORSCHE POSTERS!  youroil.net
Weber Carb Info http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
Porsche Road Test http://members.rennlist.com/roadtest/
.
- Original Message - 
From: Mitch Haley [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Sunday, January 07, 2007 1:49 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Brake Calipers





LarryT wrote:

 I tried to unscrew them - got a wrench on them and tapped it with a very
small hammer - slowly.  Sure enough, just when I thought they had broken
loose then broke where they enter the caliper.  #!!#$%##  Says I.


You did hammer on them (like pounding in nails) to knock them loose
before you tried to turn them, didn't you?

Mitch.


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Re: [MBZ] Trying out 0Wxx Mobil 1

2007-01-07 Thread LarryT

John wrote:when you pump it you throw the pump into WoT and it

starts dumping lots of fuel 


As you say - that's the reason for not touching the accelerator pedal - not 
only do you get all that fuel in the chamber - it's very *cold* fuel to 
boot!Which means the GPs have a bunch more fuel to try and ignite, it's 
starting from a colder temperature.


I believe it happens like this - you turn the key, a spritz of fuel is 
injected to the proper cylinders, concurrently, the GPs start heating the 
prechamber or cylinder depending on model - and you *eventually* start 
cranking after 15 seconds or so depending on temps etc - then, just as it's 
beginning to start, you push (or pump) the throttle pushing lots of of 
(un-needed), cold fuel into the prechamber - where it has to be heated 
before it can ignite -


So pumping when trying to start in cold temps is a bad thing.  Once it's 
running on all/most cylinders I suggest easing on the throttle slightly to 
get the revs to about 1000rpm and keep it there for ~30 seconds or so before 
driving off sedately.


Happy winter dieseling!


Larry T (67 MGB, 74 911, 78 240D, 91 300D)
www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts
Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
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.
- Original Message - 
From: John W. Reames III [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Sunday, January 07, 2007 4:03 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Trying out 0Wxx Mobil 1



On Fri, 5 Jan 2007, Zoltan Finks wrote:


Yup. I know pumping is bad - my foot just wants to do it. I'ts like, come
on, baby, you can do it!

Yes, starting is an emotional thing with me ;) - nothing worse to me than
the sound of the starter running slower and slower. Need to get over it - 
I

know.


Yep, tho consider when you pump it you throw the pump into WoT and it
starts dumping lots of fuel in the cylinders. This can make it REAL hard
to start (when you DO get it to start after pumping you will be rewarded
with a massive coloud of smoke, possibly blue/grey or maybe black
depending upon how cold it is outside.

-j.



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Re: [MBZ] Brake Calipers

2007-01-07 Thread E M

ha ha ha, yeah, it's amazing what we can all come up with, an hour after
dinner, on a Sunday evening, with broken parts all around us in the
driveway, and we need the car for tomorrow morning for work. :-)  More
interesting, or sould I say entertaining, would be not to read about the
fixes, but rather, the stories behind why we had to come up with some of
these fixes. hee hee :-)  Keep at it Larry and good luck.  If you can't fix
it on your first attempt, you probaby just need to use a bigger hammer. :-)

Zeb

Thanks for all the comments - very helpful.  It's great to have access to so

many experienced people who have come up with so ways to fix things when
they only had themselves to depend on.

Larry T (67 MGB, 74 911, 78 240D, 91 300D)
www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts
Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
PORSCHE POSTERS!  youroil.net
Weber Carb Info http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
Porsche Road Test http://members.rennlist.com/roadtest/
.
- Original Message -
From: Mitch Haley [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Sunday, January 07, 2007 1:49 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Brake Calipers




 LarryT wrote:
  I tried to unscrew them - got a wrench on them and tapped it with a
very
 small hammer - slowly.  Sure enough, just when I thought they had
broken
 loose then broke where they enter the caliper.  #!!#$%##  Says I.

 You did hammer on them (like pounding in nails) to knock them loose
 before you tried to turn them, didn't you?

 Mitch.


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Re: [MBZ] [Fwd: [Banned] Kaleb's long lost Uncle's Estate]

2007-01-07 Thread LarryT

2 comments -
a few years ago (5 IIRC) a huge collection of Dusenburgs were found in NC 
and a large colection of Porsche 356s were stached away on a piece of land 
in Fla.  I believe the Porsches were sold by the owners son or something - 
and he sold many thru Porsche club functions - thankfully many went to 
enthusiasts rather that investors.  But why people will hoard wonderful cars 
such as these while they gradually waste away until they're worth nothing 
compared to what they *could  should* be worth.


It's amazing how expensive old cars are becoming - especially rare, 
unrestored ones.  The old Speedsters were originally made as a less 
expensive version of the 356 - it was stripped of many comforts with a 
windshield 1/2 the height of the original and it sold for $3495 while the 
normal 356 Coupe went for $4396 and the hot rod Porsche 550 sold for $6800. 
Outrageous amounts in the mid-50s.  They all easily fetch 6 figures 
now-adays.


Larry T (67 MGB, 74 911, 78 240D, 91 300D)
www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts
Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
PORSCHE POSTERS!  youroil.net
Weber Carb Info http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
Porsche Road Test http://members.rennlist.com/roadtest/
.
- Original Message - 
From: Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: Mercedes Mailing List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Sunday, January 07, 2007 11:58 AM
Subject: [MBZ] [Fwd: [Banned] Kaleb's long lost Uncle's Estate]



check this out

 Original Message 
Subject: [Banned] Kaleb's long lost Uncle's Estate
Date: Sat, 6 Jan 2007 19:48:35 EST
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Reply-To: Banned List [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]

_Click  here: MillerAuction_
(http://coolcatcorp.com/millerauction/MillerAuction.html)


I would have like to have known these people before it was too late. The
Soviet State wound up with most of the wealth.
 John Gregg
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--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 (2x) 91 300D 2.5 Turbo, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL,
 87 300SDL, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 84 190D 2.2,
 81 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250
http://www.striplin.net

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Re: [MBZ] Brake Calipers

2007-01-07 Thread Craig McCluskey
On Sun, 7 Jan 2007 17:21:48 -0500 LarryT [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 My wife can drive her pickup or the 240D to work if need be.

   

 Larry T (67 MGB, 74 911, 78 240D, 91 300D)

Is this the '91 300D you're having so much trouble with?


Craig



Re: [MBZ] Octane and detonation....

2007-01-07 Thread John M McIntosh


On Jan 7, 2007, at 9:53 AM, Chris Kueny wrote:


The Lister engines available from India today use no spark.  ...
See www.utterpower.comfor all the details.

Chris K
Cayce, SC


After clocking 60 hours of gas generator use in dec here in the  
pacific NW I look at the various generator options just to understand  
the market.
Mind this all has changed now due to the EPA jan 2007 regulations  
where most of the solutions might not even be allowed

to be imported anymore in the USA or Canada.

There are basically:

a) Lister based options (huge debate ongoing about ability to import  
to usa now)
b)  12-20 hp (about) HP single cylinder engines from china based on a  
german design, water cooled.

c) multiple cyl large water cooled diesels made in china (20Kw+)
d) A thousand and one vendors rebranding kipo or kipo clone 6-6.5 kw  
single cyl diesel generators, enclosed on wheels or non-enclosed, the  
manuals are quite funny to read,
thank goodness we don't need to let diesel settle in 55 gallon drums  
to deal with the dirt and water before usage. Mmm depends I guess on  
your supplier. Pricing for

these guys (same engine) varies from $900 to $4000 btw.
e) very nice kuboto, yamaha, japan diesel engine base systems for .

If for example you have a farm where you grow oil based products you  
can with a press generate vegetable oil and with a lister based
system be totally off the grid, and if lucky sell power back to the  
utility.


Otherwise here with electricity at 6.33 cents a kwh it's hard to  
consider alternatives because utility electricity is so cheap, baring  
of course outages.
Still of course if I could trip over a nice diesel yamaha/honda  
generator mis-listed on ebay somewhere for a song why the loud gas  
powered 6.5kw genrac I have would

get resold...

John
1983 300TDt  374k Kilometers (mobil 1 Delvac)
1990's 300TDt  172k Kilometers (mobil 1 Delvac)
1993 500SEL 185k Kilometers (mobil 1 Delvac)





Re: [MBZ] Trying out 0Wxx Mobil 1

2007-01-07 Thread David Brodbeck
LarryT wrote:
 I believe it happens like this - you turn the key, a spritz of fuel is 
 injected to the proper cylinders, concurrently, the GPs start heating the 
 prechamber or cylinder depending on model...


Actually, at least in a mechanical-injection engine, no fuel is going to
get spritzed until you start cranking the engine.



Re: [MBZ] cheap 2.5 turbo

2007-01-07 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin
Check on the internet to see if you can order them somewhere.  When I 
bought mine I got the part number off a website and had a local radio 
shop order them for me.  For the 91-93 cars using the alpine CD changer, 
you have to get 2 PIE adaptors, and get a special interface box at the 
dealer.  I believe the factory CD changer have this interface box 
mounted to the back of the CD changer already.  Hook the mess together 
and it works fine.  On the 94 and up cars (non fiber optic), you just 
have to buy 1 adaptor that plugs the same alpine changer right into the 
truck plug.


LarryT wrote:

OK - Thanks!  I'll contact PIE tomorrow and see how much a adapter will 
cost.


Thanks again.  BTW, is the Alpine 611 a current changer?  Or has it been out 
for a while ?


Hope, at last!  ;-)

Larry T (67 MGB, 74 911, 78 240D, 91 300D)
www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts
Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
PORSCHE POSTERS!  youroil.net
Weber Carb Info http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
Porsche Road Test http://members.rennlist.com/roadtest/
.
- Original Message - 
From: Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Sunday, January 07, 2007 1:17 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] cheap 2.5 turbo




Well you dont need a becker silverstone changer, the alpine 611 and
several others will work just fine with the becker system.  You have to
get a coupld of adapter from PIE but thats no big deal.

LarryT wrote:


you wrote:Why on earth would somebody rip out the factory head unit and
install that crappy aftermarket radio

Couldn't agree more!  Actually, I'm fighting a similar problem w/my 91. 
I
want a changer and bought one that needed repair.  It's been with SW 
Stereo

since last July waiting for parts.  He's really an expert on these Becker
systems and I've run a few different scenarios past him trying to find a
workable alternative that would provide equal sound quality.  I 
considered

buying a new dash unit and changer to go with it - but that would mean
running all new speaker wires and a new antenna wire - with another one 
to
the dash if I want the on/off to actuate the antenna.  He said the head 
unit

is basically a tape deck and some wiring - with the tuner and amp in the
trunk.  It's high quality fir circa 1991 so I would gain quality if I 
wanted

to buy all new stuff and spend the few hours running wiring.  I don;t, so
I'll wait for the changer to be rebuilt.

Not sure why Becker had to go with the trunk mounted amp  tuner - all 
the

other systems managed to put quality in the dash -

The bad thing is the Becker Silverstone CD Changers are becoming 
difficult

to find - and parts take a long time to locate.  Becker doesn;t make or
stock any spare parts any more.

Oh well.
Larry T (67 MGB, 74 911, 78 240D, 91 300D)
www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts
Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
PORSCHE POSTERS!  youroil.net
Weber Carb Info http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
Porsche Road Test http://members.rennlist.com/roadtest/
.
- Original Message - 
From: Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Sunday, January 07, 2007 12:10 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] cheap 2.5 turbo





probably not.  The most disturbing part of the car though is this model
is prewired for CD changer in the trunk.  Why on earth would somebody
rip out the factory head unit and install that crappy aftermarket radio?

LarryT wrote:




You wrote:cheap 2.5 turbo

With over 8 days remaining, I doubt it'll be cheap for long.  ;-)

Larry T (67 MGB, 74 911, 78 240D, 91 300D)
www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts
Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
PORSCHE POSTERS!  youroil.net
Weber Carb Info http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
Porsche Road Test http://members.rennlist.com/roadtest/
.
- Original Message - 
From: Kaleb C. Striplin, Cox Auto Trader [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Saturday, January 06, 2007 3:50 PM
Subject: [MBZ] cheap 2.5 turbo






http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mercedes-Benz-300-Series-300D-DIESEL-1991-300D-DIESEL-SMOKE-FREE-in-FLORIDA-at-NO-RESERVE_W0QQitemZ330071864350QQihZ014QQcategoryZ6330QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
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--
Kaleb 

Re: [MBZ] rusty turd

2007-01-07 Thread andrew strasfogel

Ooohh look at that cancerous rust.  And it seems so nice above he high
water mark...

What IS nice is the color matching of the dash to the upholstery.

On 1/6/07, David Brodbeck [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 Kaleb
 I happen to like the Sears Bias Ply tires and snow tires on the rear.

And the spare.  Hey, it's only flat on one side!


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[MBZ] CD changer info for Larry

2007-01-07 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin
Here is a link to a place that sells the proper adaptors you need.  Just 
for FYI, you should be able to order them elsewhere.  It also lists 
which of the alpine changer are compatable, although most any of the 6 
disk ones will work.


http://www.logjamelectronics.com/piembzealp.html


--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 (2x) 91 300D 2.5 Turbo, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL,
 87 300SDL, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 84 190D 2.2,
 81 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250
http://www.striplin.net



Re: [MBZ] CD changer info for Larry

2007-01-07 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin
Oh yea, it also tells you the MB part number of the interface box you 
need to order from Rusty.


Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:

Here is a link to a place that sells the proper adaptors you need.  Just 
for FYI, you should be able to order them elsewhere.  It also lists 
which of the alpine changer are compatable, although most any of the 6 
disk ones will work.


http://www.logjamelectronics.com/piembzealp.html




--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 (2x) 91 300D 2.5 Turbo, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL,
 87 300SDL, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 84 190D 2.2,
 81 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250
http://www.striplin.net



Re: [MBZ] Here's a nice 114

2007-01-07 Thread andrew strasfogel

Sweet car but it was the basic, bottom of the line model.  It will
only hold it's value if it isn't driven.

On 1/7/07, Donald Snook [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

Ebay Item # 260073393513



http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/45k-ORIGINAL-MILES-PRICE-TO-SELL-THE-BEST
_W0QQitemZ260073393513QQihZ016QQcategoryZ6329QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem





Donald H. Snook

1990 300SEL 133K

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Re: [MBZ] replacing fuel return lines

2007-01-07 Thread andrew strasfogel

Slice through the fabric covering the nipple VERY carefully with one
of those retractable razor knives and peel it apart and off.

On 1/7/07, Curt Raymond [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


I delayed in doing them on my 190D when they were merely seeping and then got 
to do them when one fell off...
That one got held back on with a zip tie so I could make it home. All the 
others were ready to fall off.

-Curt

Date: Sun, 7 Jan 2007 00:49:01 -0800
From: kevin kraly [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [MBZ] replacing fuel return lines
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset=iso-8859-1;
 reply-type=original

I did have a time with a couple of them on my 300D and 300CD.  The 'cD
had
the worst ones which were TOTALLY dried out and broke into pieces at
the
slightest tug, of course, right at the barb!  I picked at them gently
with a
knife which did the trick.  There's no Diesel smell under the hood of
the
300SD, so she's good for now although I have enough line to do the job
when
the time comes.

Kevin in Hillsboro, OR
1983 300SD 265K miles, Ursula

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Re: [MBZ] Trying out 0Wxx Mobil 1

2007-01-07 Thread Zoltan Finks

So it would follow that on a mechanical-injection engine, there is no
preheating of fuel, and so any fuel that enters as a result of pumping is as
cold as the fuel that enters without pumping.

I'm assuming that an 83 240D is a mechanical-injection engine.

And no, I'm still not an advocate of pumping, just referring to how my foot
tends to want to do it to help things along.

Brian

David wrote:

Actually, at least in a mechanical-injection engine, no fuel is going to
get spritzed until you start cranking the engine.