[MBZ] a car for a Shnook

2010-10-12 Thread Mitch Haley

Caddy STS, without the leak prone Northstar.

http://lansing.craigslist.org/ctd/2001504973.html

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[MBZ] who wants a 190B?

2010-10-12 Thread Mitch Haley

No affiliation.

http://saginaw.craigslist.org/ctd/1969718456.html

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[MBZ] Christmas in October

2010-10-12 Thread Rolf
 The great punkin and his flying nightmares are dropping off a palette 
of tricks or treats for me today.


Drums fingers patiently.

-Rolf

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Re: [MBZ] Catheyesque Repair of the day

2010-10-12 Thread Jim Cathey

tab on top of the tank...epoxied it with some Mighty Putty super epoxy.


I've not been impressed with epoxies on plastic, due to the
difference in their flexibilities.  You might get lucky, though.
I'd have probably reached for the Shoe Goo for that one.  Also,
any kind of splint you can fit across broken plastic joints really
helps with the strength and durability.

-- Jim



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Re: [MBZ] who wants a 190B?

2010-10-12 Thread Craig
On Tue, 12 Oct 2010 07:18:10 -0400 Mitch Haley m...@voyager.net wrote:

 No affiliation.
 
 http://saginaw.craigslist.org/ctd/1969718456.html


Also no reverse. Hmmm ... Linkage or tranny?


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] Catheyesque Repair of the day

2010-10-12 Thread Alex Chamberlain
On Tue, Oct 12, 2010 at 6:30 AM, Jim Cathey j...@windwireless.net wrote:
 any kind of splint you can fit across broken plastic joints really
 helps with the strength and durability.

Or _through_ them!  In situations where there is no room for a splint,
such as when repairing Tab A which is intended to fit snugly into Slot
B, I have had success drilling a hole lengthwise through both parts
and inserting a superglue-coated electric guitar string.  I use a hand
drill like this one: http://www.sciplus.com/singleItem.cfm/terms/11846

Alex

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Re: [MBZ] 603 update

2010-10-12 Thread Dieselhead
Congrats.  Hope you get it all finished soon.   Have you got a 
alternator bracket /belt tensioner for Dan Weeks?



 The engine is ready to drop in the car.  Its all put back together 
except for the intake manifold.  Im going to put it back on after I 
get the engine in and all the wires hooked back up.  On that oil 
supply line for the turbo I ended up just taking a 3.0 version and 
bending it around to fit.  Not easy but worth saving over $200 for 
the part.


--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 95 E300, 94 S500, 92 500SEL, 92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic,
 91 350SDL, 91 300D, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL x2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro,
 85 190D, 84 190D, 84 300D euro manny, 76 240D, 76 300D,
http://www.okiebenz.com


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Re: [MBZ] Who was it that wanted pictures of a 240D throttle linkage?

2010-10-12 Thread Dieselhead

That was Ed Booher.



A friend came over today and helped me move stuff in the garage to put up
a shelf. As a side benefit, the 240D engine in there was exposed and I
took some pictures.


Craig

--
Present:'94 E420117 kmi
'82 240D/3.0263 kmi
Past:   '86 190E/2.3
'72 220/8
'72 220D/8
'64 190Dc

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[MBZ] 126 Alt Bracket/Rusty

2010-10-12 Thread theprofil...@dwx.com
Thanks, Rusty. I don't suppose there's any chance I can just buy the adjuster 
nut, is there?

Dan





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Re: [MBZ] Catheyesque Repair of the day

2010-10-12 Thread Dieselhead
i salvage old ign coils for the spools of copper wire.  For plastic 
repairs, if/where a splint won't fit, i drill some very small holes 
and thread the copper wire through it.  Then the shoegoo/epoxy is 
used more for a sealer than for tensile strength.


If you need even finer wire, craft stores sell small spools of very 
fine brass wire.




tab on top of the tank...epoxied it with some Mighty Putty super epoxy.


I've not been impressed with epoxies on plastic, due to the
difference in their flexibilities.  You might get lucky, though.
I'd have probably reached for the Shoe Goo for that one.  Also,
any kind of splint you can fit across broken plastic joints really
helps with the strength and durability.

-- Jim



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Re: [MBZ] 126 Alt Bracket/Rusty

2010-10-12 Thread Rusty Cullens

$6.25


Rusty Cullens
BuyMBparts, Inc.
www.buyMBparts.biz
www.buyEUROparts.biz
www.buyASIANparts.biz
Tel/ 1-800-741-5252
Fax/ 770-454-9745
ICQ 427542441
AIM BuyMBparts

- Original Message - 
From: theprofil...@dwx.com

To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Tuesday, October 12, 2010 10:28 AM
Subject: [MBZ] 126 Alt Bracket/Rusty


Thanks, Rusty. I don't suppose there's any chance I can just buy the 
adjuster nut, is there?


Dan





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Re: [MBZ] Mr McGoo

2010-10-12 Thread Mountain Man
Walt wrote:
 I prefer 12 grain toast to the white bread variety we're currently being
 offered.

Try the sourdough, toasted, buttered, a smidge of peanut butter, a
smidge of honey - .
mao

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Re: [MBZ] who wants a 190B?

2010-10-12 Thread Jaime Kopchinski
Almost certainly linkage.

That looks like a great deal... if it were local I'll be right over there.

On Tue, Oct 12, 2010 at 9:34 AM, Craig diese...@pisquared.net wrote:
 On Tue, 12 Oct 2010 07:18:10 -0400 Mitch Haley m...@voyager.net wrote:

 No affiliation.

 http://saginaw.craigslist.org/ctd/1969718456.html


 Also no reverse. Hmmm ... Linkage or tranny?


 Craig

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Re: [MBZ] a car for a Shnook

2010-10-12 Thread Donald Snook
Mitch wrote and provided the following link: Caddy STS, without the leak prone 
Northstar.

http://lansing.craigslist.org/ctd/2001504973.html

First of all, I have been swamped at work and I am WEEKS behind on digests, so 
sorry for the lack of responses lately.

As far as this car goes, you are right, it does not have the leak prone 
northstar, but it does have the 4.5 aluminum engine that warps the heads.  The 
4.1 (or 4100 as it was it was sometimes called) was used for a long time in a 
bunch of cadillacs.  However, it had head warping/cracking problems.  The head 
gasket would leak, the head would warp and most of the time, the coolant went 
internally and crashed the bearings.  The 4.5 was a huge improvement, but it 
still had significant head problems.  The best one to look for is the 4.9L. It 
has more power, is much more reliable. Most of the Cadillac gurus think the 4.9 
is the most desirable of all Cadillac engines.  In terms of fuel injected 
engines, I agree with them.  But, if you don't mind old school technology the 
307 Oldsmobile-built Y engine was a true workhorse and was practically 
bulletproof.  Even though the 307 is a great engine, in terms of performance 
and fuel mileage, the 4.9 is an awesome engine.

I would avoid early northstars, but I think they eventually got the head 
gasket/head bolt problems figured out and the later generation Northstars are 
great.

I loved my 93 Sedan Deville with the 4.9L.  But, my current car (1995 E320) is 
vastly superior in most respects.  The old Cadillac was a great cruiser and 
made a great road trip car with lots of room for the rear seat passengers.

Donald H. Snook

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[MBZ] Epoxy for seat belt buckle repair

2010-10-12 Thread andrew strasfogel
It's been extremely challenging finding a RF seat belt for the 300TD that
has the plastic part (missing on mine) that holds the male bayonet high on
the B pillar, rather than letting it slide down to the floor when not in
use.  While the new belt is intact, that short piece of plastic on the
belt assembly is cracked, however, and will likely give way completely
unless I can cement it back together again.  Does anyone know q brand of
epoxy cement that dries BLACK that will not only glue the piece back
together but is also thick enough to bridge a gap in the buckle assembly? I
need something the consistency of caulking rather then runny superglue.

Andrew
white 1983 300TD with noisy speedometer cable
blue 1985 300TD in need of painting
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Re: [MBZ] Epoxy for seat belt buckle repair

2010-10-12 Thread Rich Thomas
JBWeld comes in black I think, or you can mix in a little bit of laser 
toner dust to give it a good deep black color (which I do to fill in wood).


--R

On 10/12/2010 11:07 AM, andrew strasfogel wrote:

It's been extremely challenging finding a RF seat belt for the 300TD that
has the plastic part (missing on mine) that holds the male bayonet high on
the B pillar, rather than letting it slide down to the floor when not in
use.  While the new belt is intact, that short piece of plastic on the
belt assembly is cracked, however, and will likely give way completely
unless I can cement it back together again.  Does anyone know q brand of
epoxy cement that dries BLACK that will not only glue the piece back
together but is also thick enough to bridge a gap in the buckle assembly? I
need something the consistency of caulking rather then runny superglue.

Andrew
white 1983 300TD with noisy speedometer cable
blue 1985 300TD in need of painting
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Re: [MBZ] a car for a Shnook

2010-10-12 Thread Frederick W Moir

Alles.
I especially like the custom rope on the steering wheel.
Fred Moir
Lynn MA
Diesel preferred

On 10/12/2010 7:00 AM, Mitch Haley wrote:

Caddy STS, without the leak prone Northstar.

http://lansing.craigslist.org/ctd/2001504973.html

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Re: [MBZ] a car for a Shnook

2010-10-12 Thread Dieselhead

Alles.

I was contemplating the references to warped heads from a lawyer.

Pot Kettle Black?  (to revive an old phrase from this list)




Alles.
I especially like the custom rope on the steering wheel.
Fred Moir
Lynn MA
Diesel preferred

On 10/12/2010 7:00 AM, Mitch Haley wrote:

Caddy STS, without the leak prone Northstar.


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Re: [MBZ] 603 update

2010-10-12 Thread Alex Chamberlain
On Mon, Oct 11, 2010 at 6:02 PM, OK Don okd...@gmail.com wrote:
 Sounds good! Drive it down here when you get it all buckled together for a
 hake down run, so I can ride in a 140.


Is a hake-down one of the events at ChowdaQ?

Alex

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Re: [MBZ] a car for a Shnook

2010-10-12 Thread Mitch Haley

Donald Snook wrote:

I loved my 93 Sedan Deville with the 4.9L.  But, my current car (1995 E320) is 
vastly superior in most respects.


I found one of those (last year 320E W124) for $1000:
Nice looking car. Motor runs excellent. Will need some transmission service.

I'm broke, and I don't need more unfinished projects, but that one has appeal.

Mitch.

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Re: [MBZ] a car for a Shnook

2010-10-12 Thread Alex Chamberlain
On Tue, Oct 12, 2010 at 9:26 AM, Mitch Haley m...@voyager.net wrote:
 I found one of those (last year 320E W124) for $1000:
 Nice looking car. Motor runs excellent. Will need some transmission
 service.

 I'm broke, and I don't need more unfinished projects, but that one has
 appeal.


You could've swapped the manual tranny from your broken 2.3-16 into it.

Alex

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Re: [MBZ] a car for a Shnook

2010-10-12 Thread Alex Chamberlain
On Tue, Oct 12, 2010 at 9:30 AM, Alex Chamberlain
apchamberl...@gmail.com wrote:
 On Tue, Oct 12, 2010 at 9:26 AM, Mitch Haley m...@voyager.net wrote:
 I found one of those (last year 320E W124) for $1000:
 Nice looking car. Motor runs excellent. Will need some transmission
 service.

 I'm broke, and I don't need more unfinished projects, but that one has
 appeal.


 You could've swapped the manual tranny from your broken 2.3-16 into it.

 Alex


Could swap, I mean.  Then part out the rest of the 2.3-16 and no
longer be broke!  Kill two birds with one stone!

Alex

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Re: [MBZ] a car for a Shnook

2010-10-12 Thread Dillon, Meade M CIV SPAWARSYSCEN-ATLANTIC, 53310
Find that deal for a '95 wagon, and I'd probably bite, and transplant my
OM603 powertrain...

-Max
(dreaming the impossible dream)

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com
[mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of Mitch Haley
Sent: Tuesday, October 12, 2010 12:26 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] a car for a Shnook

Donald Snook wrote:
 I loved my 93 Sedan Deville with the 4.9L.  But, my current car (1995
E320) is vastly superior in most respects.

I found one of those (last year 320E W124) for $1000:
Nice looking car. Motor runs excellent. Will need some transmission
service.

I'm broke, and I don't need more unfinished projects, but that one has
appeal.

Mitch.

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Re: [MBZ] Christmas in October

2010-10-12 Thread Walt Zarnoch
Don't leave us hanging, tell us!

Walt

On Tue, Oct 12, 2010 at 8:44 AM, Rolf r...@winmutt.com wrote:
  The great punkin and his flying nightmares are dropping off a palette of
 tricks or treats for me today.

 Drums fingers patiently.

 -Rolf

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Re: [MBZ] Uses for ShoeGoo - was: Catheyesque Repair of the day

2010-10-12 Thread Fmiser
 Jim Cathey wrote:

  tab on top of the tank...epoxied it with some Mighty Putty
  super epoxy.
 
 I've not been impressed with epoxies on plastic, due to the
 difference in their flexibilities.  You might get lucky,
 though. I'd have probably reached for the Shoe Goo for that
 one.  Also, any kind of splint you can fit across broken
 plastic joints really helps with the strength and durability.

My latest use for ShoeGoo is repairing hair barrettes.  The
little girls have a bunch that are spring steel and have a
colorful plastic decoration layer on the outside.  
If you don't have any girls under the age of 8, you may not know
what I'm talking about. :)

Anyway, the plastic coating tends to come off over after much
use (or play).  To hear their reaction to it coming off it would
seem it causes physical pain.  But ShoeGoo to the Rescue!  So
far, all the repaired ones are holding up well.

--Philip

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Re: [MBZ] a car for a Shnook

2010-10-12 Thread Mitch Haley

Alex Chamberlain wrote:

On Tue, Oct 12, 2010 at 9:26 AM, Mitch Haley m...@voyager.net wrote:

I found one of those (last year 320E W124) for $1000:
Nice looking car. Motor runs excellent. Will need some transmission
service.

I'm broke, and I don't need more unfinished projects, but that one has
appeal.



You could've swapped the manual tranny from your broken 2.3-16 into it.


The only things broken on my 16v are the climate control, the cruise control, 
and the manny tranny. I replaced the fuel pump relay months ago. I want to drive 
it today, but I can't until my insurance agent faxes me the papers.


Mitch.

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Re: [MBZ] a car for a Shnook

2010-10-12 Thread Mitch Haley

Frederick W Moir wrote:

Alles.
I especially like the custom rope on the steering wheel.



http://lansing.craigslist.org/ctd/2001504973.html



Rope or zip ties?

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Re: [MBZ] a car for a Shnook

2010-10-12 Thread Frederick W Moir

Mitch, et al.
The Custom rope was a reference to the high level of care lavished on 
this chariot.

Zip ties could be referred to as custom rope?
Fred Moir
Not a fan of cattle trucks.

On 10/12/2010 12:51 PM, Mitch Haley wrote:


http://lansing.craigslist.org/ctd/2001504973.html 


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Re: [MBZ] Epoxy for seat belt buckle repair

2010-10-12 Thread andrew strasfogel
Thanks.  BTW, how do you come up with these ideas??

 *or you can mix in a little bit of laser toner dust to give it a good deep
black color (which I do to fill in wood*



On Tue, Oct 12, 2010 at 11:20 AM, Rich Thomas 
richthomas79td...@constructivity.net wrote:

 JBWeld comes in black I think, or you can mix in a little bit of laser
 toner dust to give it a good deep black color (which I do to fill in wood).

 --R


 On 10/12/2010 11:07 AM, andrew strasfogel wrote:

  It's been extremely challenging finding a RF seat belt for the 300TD
 that
 has the plastic part (missing on mine) that holds the male bayonet high on
 the B pillar, rather than letting it slide down to the floor when not in
 use.  While the new belt is intact, that short piece of plastic on the
 belt assembly is cracked, however, and will likely give way completely
 unless I can cement it back together again.  Does anyone know q brand of
 epoxy cement that dries BLACK that will not only glue the piece back
 together but is also thick enough to bridge a gap in the buckle assembly?
 I
 need something the consistency of caulking rather then runny superglue.

 Andrew
 white 1983 300TD with noisy speedometer cable
 blue 1985 300TD in need of painting
 ___
 http://www.okiebenz.com
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Re: [MBZ] a car for a Shnook

2010-10-12 Thread Dieselhead
Is your reference to cattle trucks analogous to my Missouri Cattle 
truck reference to caddy-lacks?


The car looks like a gussied up buick



Mitch, et al.
The Custom rope was a reference to the high level of care lavished 
on this chariot.

Zip ties could be referred to as custom rope?
Fred Moir
Not a fan of cattle trucks.


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[MBZ] anyone have a clue

2010-10-12 Thread glenn brown

I've been experiencing no starting in my '84 300D for the past few days when in 
Park and the glow plug light has turned off but the car will start immediately 
when shifted into Neutral and the ignition key turned to the start position.  
Note, this is somewhat intermittent as it doesn't seem to do this every time.  
TIA.
 
G. M. Brown
Brevard, NC   
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Re: [MBZ] anyone have a clue

2010-10-12 Thread Dieselhead
I guess you mean no cranky in P?   If so, it sounds like the switch 
in the shifter mechanism for P is not working.  It may need cleaning, 
adjustment, or replacement.   If it cranks in P, but won't start, 
that is a different trail.



I've been experiencing no starting in my '84 300D for the past few 
days when in Park and the glow plug light has turned off but the car 
will start immediately when shifted into Neutral and the ignition 
key turned to the start position.  Note, this is somewhat 
intermittent as it doesn't seem to do this every time.  TIA.


G. M. Brown
Brevard, NC			  		 
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Re: [MBZ] Epoxy for seat belt buckle repair

2010-10-12 Thread Rich Thomas
I actually learned that from some guy at the Furniture Makers Show in 
Kerrville TX a few years back -- he would fill voids in mesquite boards 
with epoxy colored with that, and mix in turquoise, you then sand it 
down and you have a beautiful filler that lends a real nice note to the 
wood.  I use the technique now on lots of stuff I make.  The turquoise 
in black is awesome, like stars in the sky.


I have some toner carts from a color printer in a box somewhere, red 
blue and yellow I think, maybe a 4th color too, from which I have not 
yet actively extracted the toner (it seems to extract itself quite 
easily).  That might be cool.  I use the standard fiberglass epoxy which 
is mostly clearish, sets up a bit yellow but the toner dust turns it 
black black black, and you only need a very small amount.  Just mix a 
bit in the base part of the epoxy, stir it well, then add your catalyst 
and yer good ta go.


You can also used unsanded tile grout, which comes in lots of colors but 
in large packages, or dry pigment you get at the hobby store, which 
comes in even more colors and small bottles.  I like free better though.


--R

On 10/12/2010 1:38 PM, andrew strasfogel wrote:

Thanks.  BTW, how do you come up with these ideas??

  *or you can mix in a little bit of laser toner dust to give it a good deep
black color (which I do to fill in wood*


   



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Re: [MBZ] anyone have a clue

2010-10-12 Thread Rich Thomas
That would be your interlock switch there on the shifter, needs to be 
adjusted or replaced.


--R

On 10/12/2010 1:57 PM, glenn brown wrote:

I've been experiencing no starting in my '84 300D for the past few days when in 
Park and the glow plug light has turned off but the car will start immediately 
when shifted into Neutral and the ignition key turned to the start position.  
Note, this is somewhat intermittent as it doesn't seem to do this every time.  
TIA.

G. M. Brown
Brevard, NC 
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[MBZ] $#!^ -- brakes

2010-10-12 Thread Rich Thomas
I just broke off a bleeder nipple from a front brake caliper.  Not rusty 
or anything, I guess I should have sprayed it down first with some PB.  
I guess that means I need to take the caliper off and drill out the 
remaining nib then chase it with a tap?  The local auto parts store can 
get another in the morning.  The backs loosened quite nicely.


Anyway, mama was thinking the brakes were getting a little soft, seemed 
a bit so I sucked out the old fluid from the reservoir ($2 sucker) and 
put in new, then started bleeding calipers,  Fluid looked pretty clean, 
so not sure what the issue is.  I did hear what sounded like the RR 
caliper clunk when I sucked on it with the MityVac, so maybe it was 
sticking a bit or something?


--R

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[MBZ] front end SD

2010-10-12 Thread Rich Thomas
I jacked up the front end of the 84SD last evening, and checked play on 
the front wheels.  I heard the RF make a loud pop the other night, 
thought it might be a ball joint but there only seems to be a very small 
amount of play on that wheel top/bottom -- it feels like the bearing 
might be a bit loose in there as I couldn't see anything with the BJ 
though I;m not sure that would be visible anyway.  I gotta take that 
caliper off, so I guess I will check on the bearing while I am doing 
that.  LF seems tight enough, more so than the RF.


It seems a bit loose in the steering aspect, and it feels a bit wobbly 
on the road and the steering wheel has some play in it.  I need to look 
at that more to see if it is the box or some links.


--R

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Re: [MBZ] $#!^ -- brakes

2010-10-12 Thread Dillon, Meade M CIV SPAWARSYSCEN-ATLANTIC, 53310
I've got an oxy-acetylene torch now - you may borrow if your inclined to
try an application of heat and an easy-out.

I used this blue wrench on Saturday to persuade a sticking hydraulic
fitting on the SLS of my wagon; all went well until I managed to pour
hot oil on my forearm (note to self: ensure hydraulic lines are empty
before using blue wrench).

-Max

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com
[mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of Rich Thomas
Sent: Tuesday, October 12, 2010 2:29 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: [MBZ] $#!^ -- brakes

I just broke off a bleeder nipple from a front brake caliper.  Not rusty
or anything, I guess I should have sprayed it down first with some PB.  
I guess that means I need to take the caliper off and drill out the
remaining nib then chase it with a tap?  The local auto parts store can
get another in the morning.  The backs loosened quite nicely.

Anyway, mama was thinking the brakes were getting a little soft, seemed
a bit so I sucked out the old fluid from the reservoir ($2 sucker) and
put in new, then started bleeding calipers,  Fluid looked pretty clean,
so not sure what the issue is.  I did hear what sounded like the RR
caliper clunk when I sucked on it with the MityVac, so maybe it was
sticking a bit or something?

--R

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Re: [MBZ] front end SD

2010-10-12 Thread Dillon, Meade M CIV SPAWARSYSCEN-ATLANTIC, 53310
Bearing will also be loose at left/right.  If only top/bottom, replace
it now before your wheel falls of and your pistons melt!

-Max 

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com
[mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of Rich Thomas
Sent: Tuesday, October 12, 2010 2:34 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: [MBZ] front end SD

I jacked up the front end of the 84SD last evening, and checked play on
the front wheels.  I heard the RF make a loud pop the other night,
thought it might be a ball joint but there only seems to be a very small
amount of play on that wheel top/bottom -- it feels like the bearing
might be a bit loose in there as I couldn't see anything with the BJ
though I;m not sure that would be visible anyway.  I gotta take that
caliper off, so I guess I will check on the bearing while I am doing
that.  LF seems tight enough, more so than the RF.

It seems a bit loose in the steering aspect, and it feels a bit wobbly
on the road and the steering wheel has some play in it.  I need to look
at that more to see if it is the box or some links.

--R

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Re: [MBZ] front end SD

2010-10-12 Thread Dillon, Meade M CIV SPAWARSYSCEN-ATLANTIC, 53310
Should be OFF vice of. 

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com
[mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of Dillon, Meade M CIV
SPAWARSYSCEN-ATLANTIC,53310
Sent: Tuesday, October 12, 2010 2:44 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] front end SD

Bearing will also be loose at left/right.  If only top/bottom, replace
it now before your wheel falls of and your pistons melt!

-Max 

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com
[mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of Rich Thomas
Sent: Tuesday, October 12, 2010 2:34 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: [MBZ] front end SD

I jacked up the front end of the 84SD last evening, and checked play on
the front wheels.  I heard the RF make a loud pop the other night,
thought it might be a ball joint but there only seems to be a very small
amount of play on that wheel top/bottom -- it feels like the bearing
might be a bit loose in there as I couldn't see anything with the BJ
though I;m not sure that would be visible anyway.  I gotta take that
caliper off, so I guess I will check on the bearing while I am doing
that.  LF seems tight enough, more so than the RF.

It seems a bit loose in the steering aspect, and it feels a bit wobbly
on the road and the steering wheel has some play in it.  I need to look
at that more to see if it is the box or some links.

--R

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Re: [MBZ] front end SD

2010-10-12 Thread Rich Thomas
It is hard to tell if the slop is bearing L/R too with the slop in the 
steering.


Are you saying I might loose my break peddle?

--R

On 10/12/2010 2:44 PM, Dillon, Meade M CIV SPAWARSYSCEN-ATLANTIC, 53310 
wrote:

Bearing will also be loose at left/right.  If only top/bottom, replace
it now before your wheel falls of and your pistons melt!

-Max

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com
[mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of Rich Thomas
Sent: Tuesday, October 12, 2010 2:34 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: [MBZ] front end SD

I jacked up the front end of the 84SD last evening, and checked play on
the front wheels.  I heard the RF make a loud pop the other night,
thought it might be a ball joint but there only seems to be a very small
amount of play on that wheel top/bottom -- it feels like the bearing
might be a bit loose in there as I couldn't see anything with the BJ
though I;m not sure that would be visible anyway.  I gotta take that
caliper off, so I guess I will check on the bearing while I am doing
that.  LF seems tight enough, more so than the RF.

It seems a bit loose in the steering aspect, and it feels a bit wobbly
on the road and the steering wheel has some play in it.  I need to look
at that more to see if it is the box or some links.

--R

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Re: [MBZ] $#!^ -- brakes

2010-10-12 Thread Rich Thomas
I'll take the caliper off and soak it with some PB then try an 
easy-out.  I have a propane torch too that does pretty well as a hot 
wrench with MAPP gas.


--R

On 10/12/2010 2:42 PM, Dillon, Meade M CIV SPAWARSYSCEN-ATLANTIC, 53310 
wrote:

I've got an oxy-acetylene torch now - you may borrow if your inclined to
try an application of heat and an easy-out.

I used this blue wrench on Saturday to persuade a sticking hydraulic
fitting on the SLS of my wagon; all went well until I managed to pour
hot oil on my forearm (note to self: ensure hydraulic lines are empty
before using blue wrench).

-Max


   


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Re: [MBZ] $#!^ -- brakes

2010-10-12 Thread Dillon, Meade M CIV SPAWARSYSCEN-ATLANTIC, 53310
MAPP gas is hotter than propane, but adding O2 can get that caliper red
hot, which in my experience works very well to free up stubborn
nuts/bolts. 

-Max

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com
[mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of Rich Thomas
Sent: Tuesday, October 12, 2010 3:13 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] $#!^ -- brakes

I'll take the caliper off and soak it with some PB then try an easy-out.
I have a propane torch too that does pretty well as a hot wrench with
MAPP gas.

--R

On 10/12/2010 2:42 PM, Dillon, Meade M CIV SPAWARSYSCEN-ATLANTIC, 53310
wrote:
 I've got an oxy-acetylene torch now - you may borrow if your inclined 
 to try an application of heat and an easy-out.

 I used this blue wrench on Saturday to persuade a sticking hydraulic

 fitting on the SLS of my wagon; all went well until I managed to pour 
 hot oil on my forearm (note to self: ensure hydraulic lines are empty 
 before using blue wrench).

 -Max




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Re: [MBZ] front end SD

2010-10-12 Thread Dillon, Meade M CIV SPAWARSYSCEN-ATLANTIC, 53310
D'oh! 

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com
[mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of Rich Thomas
Sent: Tuesday, October 12, 2010 3:07 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] front end SD

It is hard to tell if the slop is bearing L/R too with the slop in the
steering.

Are you saying I might loose my break peddle?

--R

On 10/12/2010 2:44 PM, Dillon, Meade M CIV SPAWARSYSCEN-ATLANTIC, 53310
wrote:
 Bearing will also be loose at left/right.  If only top/bottom, replace

 it now before your wheel falls of and your pistons melt!

 -Max

 -Original Message-
 From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com
 [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of Rich Thomas
 Sent: Tuesday, October 12, 2010 2:34 PM
 To: Mercedes Discussion List
 Subject: [MBZ] front end SD

 I jacked up the front end of the 84SD last evening, and checked play 
 on the front wheels.  I heard the RF make a loud pop the other night, 
 thought it might be a ball joint but there only seems to be a very 
 small amount of play on that wheel top/bottom -- it feels like the 
 bearing might be a bit loose in there as I couldn't see anything with 
 the BJ though I;m not sure that would be visible anyway.  I gotta take

 that caliper off, so I guess I will check on the bearing while I am 
 doing that.  LF seems tight enough, more so than the RF.

 It seems a bit loose in the steering aspect, and it feels a bit wobbly

 on the road and the steering wheel has some play in it.  I need to 
 look at that more to see if it is the box or some links.

 --R

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 http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

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Re: [MBZ] $#!^ -- brakes

2010-10-12 Thread Fmiser
 Rich Thomas wrote:

 I just broke off a bleeder nipple from a front brake caliper.
 Not rusty or anything, I guess I should have sprayed it down
 first with some PB.

To prevent that next time, liberally coat the threads with
grease.

--Philip

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Re: [MBZ] $#!^ -- brakes

2010-10-12 Thread Walt Zarnoch
I prefer Jet-Lube 550 for my must never seize, even if hell freezes
over stuff.
It's amazing.

Walt

On Tue, Oct 12, 2010 at 4:09 PM, Fmiser fmi...@gmail.com wrote:
 Rich Thomas wrote:

 I just broke off a bleeder nipple from a front brake caliper.
 Not rusty or anything, I guess I should have sprayed it down
 first with some PB.

 To prevent that next time, liberally coat the threads with
 grease.

 --    Philip

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Re: [MBZ] Epoxy for seat belt buckle repair

2010-10-12 Thread andrew strasfogel
Yeah, the challenge is not just in getting the job done but at the lowest
possible cost!

On Tue, Oct 12, 2010 at 2:13 PM, Rich Thomas 
richthomas79td...@constructivity.net wrote:

 I actually learned that from some guy at the Furniture Makers Show in
 Kerrville TX a few years back -- he would fill voids in mesquite boards with
 epoxy colored with that, and mix in turquoise, you then sand it down and you
 have a beautiful filler that lends a real nice note to the wood.  I use the
 technique now on lots of stuff I make.  The turquoise in black is awesome,
 like stars in the sky.

 I have some toner carts from a color printer in a box somewhere, red blue
 and yellow I think, maybe a 4th color too, from which I have not yet
 actively extracted the toner (it seems to extract itself quite easily).
  That might be cool.  I use the standard fiberglass epoxy which is mostly
 clearish, sets up a bit yellow but the toner dust turns it black black
 black, and you only need a very small amount.  Just mix a bit in the base
 part of the epoxy, stir it well, then add your catalyst and yer good ta go.

 You can also used unsanded tile grout, which comes in lots of colors but in
 large packages, or dry pigment you get at the hobby store, which comes in
 even more colors and small bottles.  I like free better though.

 --R


 On 10/12/2010 1:38 PM, andrew strasfogel wrote:

 Thanks.  BTW, how do you come up with these ideas??

  *or you can mix in a little bit of laser toner dust to give it a good
 deep
 black color (which I do to fill in wood*





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Re: [MBZ] $#!^ -- brakes

2010-10-12 Thread Dieselhead
I've always been told no grease anywhere near brake parts.  However, 
I can apply never-seez to the threads without any contacting the tip 
that seals the brake fluid in.   Grease is water soluble and does not 
stand up in harsh climates where snow and salt abound.  Never-seez 
does stand up to the elements.


I had a bleeder break off and If memory serves, it came right out 
with an easy-out.






  Rich Thomas wrote:


 I just broke off a bleeder nipple from a front brake caliper.
 Not rusty or anything, I guess I should have sprayed it down
 first with some PB.


To prevent that next time, liberally coat the threads with
grease.

--Philip

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Re: [MBZ] $#!^ -- brakes

2010-10-12 Thread Dieselhead
Actually, NAPA sells a copper-based anti-seize paste that might be 
even better.  It seems to have less oil used as a carrier.




  Rich Thomas wrote:


 I just broke off a bleeder nipple from a front brake caliper.
 Not rusty or anything, I guess I should have sprayed it down
 first with some PB.


To prevent that next time, liberally coat the threads with
grease.

--Philip

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Re: [MBZ] axle RR tips?

2010-10-12 Thread Rolf
 Good write up but I have never had to remove the calipers (assuming 
this is a w123), with the diff against the body there is enough room to 
get the axles out (you may have to rotate them to walk them out. Also 
there are a few naysayers on Mobil 1 in the 2.88 diffs.


If your doing this on a wagon it may be advisable to keep the shocks 
from extending all the way.


-Rolf

On 10/07/2010 05:10 PM, Fmiser wrote:

Allan Streib wrote:
I am getting ready to re-boot my axles.  Any tips on
removing/reinstalling them?  Rusty indicated it's a PITA.  LOL.

Last time I replaced an axle shaft (on a wagon) it took me
less than an hour from putting the jack under the car to the
car back on the ground. I've done it a few (too many) times.
And I had just done it (the replacement axle shaft immediately
began leaking) so all the bolts were clean and greased.

Here's my procedure

  * Jack up the car enough to get under to drain the
differential oil.  It's a Good Idea (TM) to make sure the
fill plug can be opened before you drain.  The higher the
back of the car is jacked up, the less oil will drain out,
so I only jack up the car enough to get to the fill and
drain plugs.

  * While the oil is draining:

 - take off the wheel(s)

 - take off the brake caliper.  Yes, it really does need to
   come off.  I have tried many tricks to avoid it and
   always had to take it off.  Don't let the caliper hang
   by the hose, and try not to twist/stress the hose more
   than necessary.

 - remove the bolt that keeps the axle shaft in the wheel
   hub and push on the axle shaft to make sure it's loose
   in the hub.  I have never used a tool like the manual
   shows.  Occasionally I have had to tap the shaft out,
   but it's never been more than just a bit stiff.

  * Once the oil is fully drained, jack up the back of the car
to working height.  I like to have the lower shock mount
about 10-12 inches (25-30 cm) off the floor.  I get it this
high just to make it easier for me to work under there -
none of the parts install/removal process need the car that
high.

  * Put a jack under the front of the differential (after this
called the differential jack) and remove the four bolts
that hold the differential mount to the frame.

  * Remove the differential back cover. Lower the differential
a bit with the differential jack will make getting to the
top bolts much easier.  This part is especially tricky on a
wagon because the fuel tank and the suspension control
valve conspire to get in the way.  Lowering the
differential changes impossible to merely challenging.
The shape of the lip on the differential housing means
little or no oil will run out when the differential cover
is removed.

  * Pull the retainer clip from the axle shaft.  I have a piece
of steel wire with the end bent about 95 degrees.  The bent
end fits into the hole in the retainer clip.  I grip the
other end of the wire with vise grips and pull to remove
the retainer clip.

  * With the differential jack, jack the differential up as
high as it will go. This should mean it runs into the car
body and is just a bit higher than it's normal position.

  * Pull/push the axle shaft out of the wheel hub, slide it
past the hub toward the back of the car, and once that end
is free, pull the other end of the axle shaft out of the
differential.

Reassembly is pretty much the reverse.

  * First, clean the splines in the wheel hub and if necessary,
on the replacement axle shaft.  I lightly grease the axle
shaft splines to retard corrosion and make it all slide
together more easily.

  * Put the differential end of the axle shaft into the
differential.

  * Put the wheel end of the axle shaft into the wheel hub.

  * With the differential jack lower the differential.

  * Put the axle shaft retainer clip on in the differential.
Put the wheel hub retainer bolt in and snug it.

  * Put the differential cover on and tighten the bolts to
spec.

  * Using the differential jack, lift the differential so the
differential mount bolts can be put back in. Tighten to
spec.

  * Tighten the axle shaft wheel hub bolt to spec.

  * Put the brake caliper back on.

  * Put the wheel on.

  * Put Mobil 1 differential fluid in the differential.

  * Remove the differential jack.

  * Lower the car to the ground.

Things not specifically mentioned, but that always apply are:
clean mating surfaces, clean bolt threads, drink beer, look
for worn/missing/damaged other parts nearby, etc.

--  Philip


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Re: [MBZ] 617 Manual Flywheel Measurements

2010-10-12 Thread Rolf

 Venison is on the plate tonight!

Checked in with doc on Monday and my BP was 120/80. No drugs, just diet. 
I am on a hunch that an additive in a particular red wine (2buck Chuck 
from TJ) might be the source of my problems. I might be completely 
wrong. Got a monitor and trying to figure out what does what.


-Rolf

On 10/08/2010 10:28 PM, OK Don wrote:

Too much, but they claim you get the same protein per dollar - though I have
my doubts. I;ll pay attention next time and report back.

On Fri, Oct 8, 2010 at 5:59 PM, Kaleb C. Striplinka...@striplin.netwrote:


  how much does it cost?


On 10/5/2010 8:53 PM, OK Don wrote:


  We buy pure buffalo meat in a local market (grown locally as well), very
lean and VERY tasty.






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Re: [MBZ] a car for a Shnook

2010-10-12 Thread Donald Snook
Mitch wrote: I found one of those (last year 320E W124) for $1000:
Nice looking car. Motor runs excellent. Will need some transmission service.
I'm broke, and I don't need more unfinished projects, but that one has appeal.


That would be tempting if the rest of the car is nice! I love the 124 and if 
you have to have a gasser (because nice diesels are hard to find), then the 94 
and 95 124 are the best in my opinion!

Donald H. Snook

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[MBZ] C63 on the track

2010-10-12 Thread RELNGSON
Referred to by the uninformed as the Cheap Class.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zirwcEtgJ8I

Anon
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Re: [MBZ] 617 Manual Flywheel Measurements

2010-10-12 Thread Walt Zarnoch
Switch to Yellow Tail or Little Penguin, you'll feel a lot better. ;)

Walt

On Tue, Oct 12, 2010 at 5:00 PM, Rolf r...@winmutt.com wrote:
  Venison is on the plate tonight!

 Checked in with doc on Monday and my BP was 120/80. No drugs, just diet. I
 am on a hunch that an additive in a particular red wine (2buck Chuck from
 TJ) might be the source of my problems. I might be completely wrong. Got a
 monitor and trying to figure out what does what.

 -Rolf

 On 10/08/2010 10:28 PM, OK Don wrote:

 Too much, but they claim you get the same protein per dollar - though I
 have
 my doubts. I;ll pay attention next time and report back.

 On Fri, Oct 8, 2010 at 5:59 PM, Kaleb C.
 Striplinka...@striplin.netwrote:

  how much does it cost?


 On 10/5/2010 8:53 PM, OK Don wrote:

  We buy pure buffalo meat in a local market (grown locally as well),
 very
 lean and VERY tasty.




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Re: [MBZ] $#!^ -- brakes

2010-10-12 Thread Mitch Haley

Dillon, Meade M CIV SPAWARSYSCEN-ATLANTIC, 53310 wrote:


I used this blue wrench on Saturday to persuade a sticking hydraulic
fitting on the SLS of my wagon; all went well until I managed to pour
hot oil on my forearm (note to self: ensure hydraulic lines are empty
before using blue wrench).


A friend cut a mcpherson strut in half last week.
When he burned through the side of the housing, a cloud of atomized hot oil 
burst forth and caught fire as it stuck to his face. Good thing he bought a new 
set of brazing goggles last month. Not my favorite way to win a trip to the 
emergency room.


Mitch.

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Re: [MBZ] $#!^ -- brakes

2010-10-12 Thread R A Bennell
Heating  closed lines is not for the faint of heart. I heated a brake line once 
in order to get the fitting loose.
It blew off with a bang but did not hit me thankfully. A leson learned. Now I 
would cut the brake hose first and
then heat it up.

Randy

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com
[mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com]on Behalf Of Dillon, Meade M CIV
SPAWARSYSCEN-ATLANTIC,53310
Sent: Tuesday, October 12, 2010 12:42 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] $#!^ -- brakes


I've got an oxy-acetylene torch now - you may borrow if your inclined to
try an application of heat and an easy-out.

I used this blue wrench on Saturday to persuade a sticking hydraulic
fitting on the SLS of my wagon; all went well until I managed to pour
hot oil on my forearm (note to self: ensure hydraulic lines are empty
before using blue wrench).

-Max

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com
[mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of Rich Thomas
Sent: Tuesday, October 12, 2010 2:29 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: [MBZ] $#!^ -- brakes

I just broke off a bleeder nipple from a front brake caliper.  Not rusty
or anything, I guess I should have sprayed it down first with some PB.
I guess that means I need to take the caliper off and drill out the
remaining nib then chase it with a tap?  The local auto parts store can
get another in the morning.  The backs loosened quite nicely.

Anyway, mama was thinking the brakes were getting a little soft, seemed
a bit so I sucked out the old fluid from the reservoir ($2 sucker) and
put in new, then started bleeding calipers,  Fluid looked pretty clean,
so not sure what the issue is.  I did hear what sounded like the RR
caliper clunk when I sucked on it with the MityVac, so maybe it was
sticking a bit or something?

--R

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Re: [MBZ] $#!^ -- brakes

2010-10-12 Thread Walt Zarnoch
HOLY HELL!

That's a freaking NASTY thing to have happen... I'm shuddering and flinching...

Walt, who just might start sucking his thumb...

On Tue, Oct 12, 2010 at 5:46 PM, Mitch Haley m...@voyager.net wrote:
 Dillon, Meade M CIV SPAWARSYSCEN-ATLANTIC, 53310 wrote:

 I used this blue wrench on Saturday to persuade a sticking hydraulic
 fitting on the SLS of my wagon; all went well until I managed to pour
 hot oil on my forearm (note to self: ensure hydraulic lines are empty
 before using blue wrench).

 A friend cut a mcpherson strut in half last week.
 When he burned through the side of the housing, a cloud of atomized hot oil
 burst forth and caught fire as it stuck to his face. Good thing he bought a
 new set of brazing goggles last month. Not my favorite way to win a trip to
 the emergency room.

 Mitch.

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Re: [MBZ] 617 Manual Flywheel Measurements

2010-10-12 Thread Rolf
 Ya but they arent in the same budget category. :D I am trying other 
red wines now and seeing how it goes. Next week is beer. Then another 
week of no alky.


I check my bp when I got home after doc, it was 137/80summin and then 
125/79 before bedtime (after wine and dinner). Not sure when I should 
expect to be able to measure bp affect from food? 4 hours? 8 hours? minutes?


-Rolf

On 10/12/2010 05:18 PM, Walt Zarnoch wrote:

Switch to Yellow Tail or Little Penguin, you'll feel a lot better. ;)

Walt

On Tue, Oct 12, 2010 at 5:00 PM, Rolfr...@winmutt.com  wrote:

  Venison is on the plate tonight!

Checked in with doc on Monday and my BP was 120/80. No drugs, just diet. I
am on a hunch that an additive in a particular red wine (2buck Chuck from
TJ) might be the source of my problems. I might be completely wrong. Got a
monitor and trying to figure out what does what.

-Rolf

On 10/08/2010 10:28 PM, OK Don wrote:

Too much, but they claim you get the same protein per dollar - though I
have
my doubts. I;ll pay attention next time and report back.

On Fri, Oct 8, 2010 at 5:59 PM, Kaleb C.
Striplinka...@striplin.netwrote:


  how much does it cost?


On 10/5/2010 8:53 PM, OK Don wrote:


  We buy pure buffalo meat in a local market (grown locally as well),
very
lean and VERY tasty.



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Re: [MBZ] $#!^ -- brakes

2010-10-12 Thread Mitch Haley

Walt Zarnoch wrote:

HOLY HELL!

That's a freaking NASTY thing to have happen... I'm shuddering and flinching...


He looked pretty normal when I saw him two days after it happened, except he was 
missing a sideburn, has a nice growth of red scar tissue on his chin, and his 
cheek is sort of tiger-striped. I'm told there was a fair bit of black skin on 
the surface when it happened. I'm glad his nephew was there to drive him to the 
hospital.


Mitch.

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Re: [MBZ] a car for a Shnook

2010-10-12 Thread Frederick W Moir

Dieselhead.
The very same.
To think that Buick was a very good, if staid, car.
Progress of sorts.
Fred Moir
Lynn MA

On 10/12/2010 1:37 PM, Dieselhead wrote:
Is your reference to cattle trucks analogous to my Missouri Cattle 
truck reference to caddy-lacks?


The car looks like a gussied up buick



Mitch, et al.
The Custom rope was a reference to the high level of care lavished 
on this chariot.

Zip ties could be referred to as custom rope?
Fred Moir
Not a fan of cattle trucks.


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Re: [MBZ] $#!^ -- brakes

2010-10-12 Thread MG

It will also tend to melt any rubber parts that are in there.

Manfred



Date: Tue, 12 Oct 2010 15:31:02 -0400
From: Dillon, Meade M CIV SPAWARSYSCEN-ATLANTIC,53310
meade.m.dil...@navy.mil
Subject: Re: [MBZ] $#!^ -- brakes



MAPP gas is hotter than propane, but adding O2 can get that 
caliper red

hot, which in my experience works very well to free up stubborn
nuts/bolts.

-Max

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Re: [MBZ] 617 Manual Flywheel Wine

2010-10-12 Thread Rich Thomas
Some good Chilean wines are quite reasonably priced, and they come in 
1.5L bottles too.


--R

On 10/12/2010 5:50 PM, Rolf wrote:
 Ya but they arent in the same budget category. :D I am trying other 
red wines now and seeing how it goes. Next week is beer. Then another 
week of no alky.


I check my bp when I got home after doc, it was 137/80summin and then 
125/79 before bedtime (after wine and dinner). Not sure when I should 
expect to be able to measure bp affect from food? 4 hours? 8 hours? 
minutes?


-Rolf

On 10/12/2010 05:18 PM, Walt Zarnoch wrote:

Switch to Yellow Tail or Little Penguin, you'll feel a lot better. ;)

Walt

On Tue, Oct 12, 2010 at 5:00 PM, Rolfr...@winmutt.com  wrote:

  Venison is on the plate tonight!

Checked in with doc on Monday and my BP was 120/80. No drugs, just 
diet. I
am on a hunch that an additive in a particular red wine (2buck Chuck 
from
TJ) might be the source of my problems. I might be completely wrong. 
Got a

monitor and trying to figure out what does what.

-Rolf





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Re: [MBZ] 603 update

2010-10-12 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin

 You have never rode or drove in a 140?

On 10/11/2010 8:02 PM, OK Don wrote:

Sounds good! Drive it down here when you get it all buckled together for a
hake down run, so I can ride in a 140.

On Mon, Oct 11, 2010 at 6:41 PM, Kaleb C. Striplinka...@striplin.netwrote:


  The engine is ready to drop in the car.  Its all put back together except
for the intake manifold.  Im going to put it back on after I get the engine
in and all the wires hooked back up.  On that oil supply line for the turbo
I ended up just taking a 3.0 version and bending it around to fit.  Not easy
but worth saving over $200 for the part.


-
OK Don
2001 ML320
1992 300D 2.5T
1990 300D 2.5T
1997 Plymouth Grand Voyager
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No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 9.0.862 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/3190 - Release Date: 10/11/10 
01:34:00



--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 95 E300, 94 S500, 92 500SEL, 92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic,
 91 350SDL, 91 300D, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL x2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro,
 85 190D, 84 190D, 84 300D euro manny, 76 240D, 76 300D,
http://www.okiebenz.com

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Re: [MBZ] 603 update

2010-10-12 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin
 If I just do it, I can have it done this weekend.  So we shall 
see.  I probably have a bracket but I dont know how quick I could 
get to it.


On 10/11/2010 8:13 PM, Dieselhead wrote:
Congrats.  Hope you get it all finished soon.   Have you got a 
alternator bracket /belt tensioner for Dan Weeks?



 The engine is ready to drop in the car.  Its all put back 
together except for the intake manifold.  Im going to put it 
back on after I get the engine in and all the wires hooked back 
up.  On that oil supply line for the turbo I ended up just 
taking a 3.0 version and bending it around to fit.  Not easy 
but worth saving over $200 for the part.


--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 95 E300, 94 S500, 92 500SEL, 92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic,
 91 350SDL, 91 300D, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL x2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro,
 85 190D, 84 190D, 84 300D euro manny, 76 240D, 76 300D,
http://www.okiebenz.com


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No virus found in this incoming message.
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Version: 9.0.862 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/3191 - Release Date: 10/11/10 
13:34:00



--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 95 E300, 94 S500, 92 500SEL, 92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic,
 91 350SDL, 91 300D, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL x2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro,
 85 190D, 84 190D, 84 300D euro manny, 76 240D, 76 300D,
http://www.okiebenz.com

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Re: [MBZ] 603 update

2010-10-12 Thread Dieselhead

Nope.  Newest I have driven or sat in was 94 E320 and 01 SDK320



 You have never rode or drove in a 140?

On 10/11/2010 8:02 PM, OK Don wrote:

Sounds good! Drive it down here when you get it all buckled together for a
hake down run, so I can ride in a 140.

On Mon, Oct 11, 2010 at 6:41 PM, Kaleb C. Striplinka...@striplin.netwrote:


  The engine is ready to drop in the car.  Its all put back together except
for the intake manifold.  Im going to put it back on after I get the engine
in and all the wires hooked back up.  On that oil supply line for the turbo
I ended up just taking a 3.0 version and bending it around to fit.  Not easy
but worth saving over $200 for the part.


-
OK Don
2001 ML320
1992 300D 2.5T
1990 300D 2.5T
1997 Plymouth Grand Voyager
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No virus found in this incoming message.
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--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 95 E300, 94 S500, 92 500SEL, 92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic,
 91 350SDL, 91 300D, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL x2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro,
 85 190D, 84 190D, 84 300D euro manny, 76 240D, 76 300D,
http://www.okiebenz.com

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Re: [MBZ] $#!^ -- brakes

2010-10-12 Thread Dillon, Meade M CIV SPAWARSYSCEN-ATLANTIC, 53310
OUCH!
 
I had already opened the system I was working on in several places, and drained 
most of the oil out.  After heating, I started applying torque with two 
wrenches and managed to move the line just right to cause the last little bit 
of oil to run out and land right on my forearm.  
 
-Max



From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com on behalf of Mitch Haley
Sent: Tue 10/12/2010 5:46 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] $#!^ -- brakes



Dillon, Meade M CIV SPAWARSYSCEN-ATLANTIC, 53310 wrote:

 I used this blue wrench on Saturday to persuade a sticking hydraulic
 fitting on the SLS of my wagon; all went well until I managed to pour
 hot oil on my forearm (note to self: ensure hydraulic lines are empty
 before using blue wrench).

A friend cut a mcpherson strut in half last week.
When he burned through the side of the housing, a cloud of atomized hot oil
burst forth and caught fire as it stuck to his face. Good thing he bought a new
set of brazing goggles last month. Not my favorite way to win a trip to the
emergency room.

Mitch.

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Re: [MBZ] $#!^ -- brakes

2010-10-12 Thread Dillon, Meade M CIV SPAWARSYSCEN-ATLANTIC, 53310
Good point - overhaul of the calipers should probably follow.  I would imagine 
that the brake caliper metal won't be affected, temperament-wise, by the 
heating and cooling, as that is the life of a brake caliper.
 
-Max



From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com on behalf of MG
Sent: Tue 10/12/2010 6:26 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] $#!^ -- brakes



It will also tend to melt any rubber parts that are in there.

Manfred



Date: Tue, 12 Oct 2010 15:31:02 -0400
From: Dillon, Meade M CIV SPAWARSYSCEN-ATLANTIC,53310
 meade.m.dil...@navy.mil
Subject: Re: [MBZ] $#!^ -- brakes



MAPP gas is hotter than propane, but adding O2 can get that
caliper red
hot, which in my experience works very well to free up stubborn
nuts/bolts.

-Max

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Re: [MBZ] $#!^ -- brakes

2010-10-12 Thread Mitch Haley

Dillon, Meade M CIV SPAWARSYSCEN-ATLANTIC, 53310 wrote:

Good point - overhaul of the calipers should probably follow.  I would imagine 
that the brake caliper metal won't be affected, temperament-wise, by the 
heating and cooling, as that is the life of a brake caliper.


Before I do the cherry red number on a caliper, I disassemble it and take out 
all the rubber and plastic stuff.
On many cars, I find it easier to buy a rebuilt caliper, and often cheaper than 
a rebuild kit and a bleeder screw.


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Re: [MBZ] Uses for ShoeGoo - was: Catheyesque Repair of the day

2010-10-12 Thread OK Don
Girls under 8? My wife uses those - but the colorfull ploastic looks more
like wood grain. The plastis usually breaks when it comes off the steel, and
looks like it's shrunk a bit, so I don't try to repair them (she doesn't
suffer much pain when they break, un-like the younger girls).

On Tue, Oct 12, 2010 at 11:43 AM, Fmiser fmi...@gmail.com wrote:


 My latest use for ShoeGoo is repairing hair barrettes.  The
 little girls have a bunch that are spring steel and have a
 colorful plastic decoration layer on the outside.
 If you don't have any girls under the age of 8, you may not know
 what I'm talking about. :)

 Anyway, the plastic coating tends to come off over after much
 use (or play).  To hear their reaction to it coming off it would
 seem it causes physical pain.  But ShoeGoo to the Rescue!  So
 far, all the repaired ones are holding up well.

 --Philip




-- 
OK Don
2001 ML320
1992 300D 2.5T
1990 300D 2.5T
1997 Plymouth Grand Voyager
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Re: [MBZ] $#!^ -- brakes

2010-10-12 Thread Rick Knoble

I wrap the bleeder threads with teflon tape, being careful not to use too much. 
It REALLY helpswhen the MightyVac actually sucks brake fluid through the 
bleeder screw, instead of air from around it.
Rick
 I've always been told no grease anywhere near brake parts.  However, 
 I can apply never-seez to the threads without any contacting the tip 
 that seals the brake fluid in.   Grease is water soluble and does not 
 stand up in harsh climates where snow and salt abound.  Never-seez 
 does stand up to the elements.
 
 I had a bleeder break off and If memory serves, it came right out 
 with an easy-out.

Rich Thomas wrote:
 
   I just broke off a bleeder nipple from a front brake caliper.
   Not rusty or anything, I guess I should have sprayed it down
   first with some PB.
 
 To prevent that next time, liberally coat the threads with
 grease.

  
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Re: [MBZ] 603 update

2010-10-12 Thread OK Don
Nope - yours have never run, that I've seen! Haven't felt the ned to get
that close to any others, being  fan of the W124 ---
That was supposed to be a SHAKE down run, but I suppose we could come up
with a hake down somehow ---
On Tue, Oct 12, 2010 at 6:38 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin ka...@striplin.netwrote:

  You have never rode or drove in a 140?


 On 10/11/2010 8:02 PM, OK Don wrote:

  Sounds good! Drive it down here when you get it all buckled together for
 a
 hake down run, so I can ride in a 140.

 On Mon, Oct 11, 2010 at 6:41 PM, Kaleb C. Striplinka...@striplin.net
 wrote:

  The engine is ready to drop in the car.  Its all put back together except
 for the intake manifold.  Im going to put it back on after I get the
 engine
 in and all the wires hooked back up.  On that oil supply line for the
 turbo
 I ended up just taking a 3.0 version and bending it around to fit.  Not
 easy
 but worth saving over $200 for the part.

 -
 OK Don
 2001 ML320
 1992 300D 2.5T
 1990 300D 2.5T
 1997 Plymouth Grand Voyager
 ___
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 01:34:00


 --
 Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
  95 E300, 94 S500, 92 500SEL, 92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic,
  91 350SDL, 91 300D, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL x2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro,
  85 190D, 84 190D, 84 300D euro manny, 76 240D, 76 300D,
 http://www.okiebenz.com

 ___
  http://www.okiebenz.com
 For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
 To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

 To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
 http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com




-- 
OK Don
2001 ML320
1992 300D 2.5T
1990 300D 2.5T
1997 Plymouth Grand Voyager
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Re: [MBZ] Christmas in October

2010-10-12 Thread Rolf

 He came, he was a bit more pudgy than I expected.
Complete 5spd 201 swap. I was surprised to see that all the rubber was 
like new, still shiny an no cracks.

Now to figure out the driveshaft and cross member for the W124

-Rolf
On 10/12/2010 8:44 AM, Rolf wrote:
 The great punkin and his flying nightmares are dropping off a palette 
of tricks or treats for me today.


Drums fingers patiently.

-Rolf



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Re: [MBZ] C63 on the track

2010-10-12 Thread OK Don
Looks like fun!

On Tue, Oct 12, 2010 at 4:00 PM, relng...@aol.com wrote:

 Referred to by the uninformed as the Cheap Class.

 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zirwcEtgJ8I




-- 
OK Don
2001 ML320
1992 300D 2.5T
1990 300D 2.5T
1997 Plymouth Grand Voyager
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Re: [MBZ] axle RR tips?

2010-10-12 Thread Allan Streib
Finished this job tonight probably would have had it done on Sunday
but needed to wait on new seals which I had not ordered in advance.  I
was able to get the axles out with the calipers in place, so perhaps on
the sedan there is a bit more room.

The leaking boot was not completely torn open.  It would appear that I
noticed the leak while it was still just in the pinhole stage; there was
still a fair amount of oil in the joint.  Everything looked clean
inside.

The Flexx boots (http://dieselgiant.com/mercedesaxleshaftbootreplace.htm)
worked wonderfully.  I replaced all four, since the other three boots
were also dry rotted though not yet leaking.

All in all, not a bad job.  As with any job, having to lie on your back
under a car on stands makes everything take longer than it should... if
I win the lottery I'm building a garage with a lift.

Allan
--
1983 300D

Fmiser fmi...@gmail.com writes:

 Allan Streib wrote:

 I am getting ready to re-boot my axles.  Any tips on
 removing/reinstalling them?  Rusty indicated it's a PITA.  LOL.

 Last time I replaced an axle shaft (on a wagon) it took me
 less than an hour from putting the jack under the car to the
 car back on the ground. I've done it a few (too many) times.
 And I had just done it (the replacement axle shaft immediately
 began leaking) so all the bolts were clean and greased.

 Here's my procedure

  * Jack up the car enough to get under to drain the
differential oil.  It's a Good Idea (TM) to make sure the
fill plug can be opened before you drain.  The higher the
back of the car is jacked up, the less oil will drain out,
so I only jack up the car enough to get to the fill and
drain plugs.

  * While the oil is draining:

 - take off the wheel(s)

 - take off the brake caliper.  Yes, it really does need to
   come off.  I have tried many tricks to avoid it and
   always had to take it off.  Don't let the caliper hang
   by the hose, and try not to twist/stress the hose more
   than necessary.

 - remove the bolt that keeps the axle shaft in the wheel
   hub and push on the axle shaft to make sure it's loose
   in the hub.  I have never used a tool like the manual
   shows.  Occasionally I have had to tap the shaft out,
   but it's never been more than just a bit stiff.

  * Once the oil is fully drained, jack up the back of the car
to working height.  I like to have the lower shock mount
about 10-12 inches (25-30 cm) off the floor.  I get it this
high just to make it easier for me to work under there -
none of the parts install/removal process need the car that
high.

  * Put a jack under the front of the differential (after this
called the differential jack) and remove the four bolts
that hold the differential mount to the frame.

  * Remove the differential back cover. Lower the differential
a bit with the differential jack will make getting to the
top bolts much easier.  This part is especially tricky on a
wagon because the fuel tank and the suspension control
valve conspire to get in the way.  Lowering the
differential changes impossible to merely challenging.
The shape of the lip on the differential housing means
little or no oil will run out when the differential cover
is removed.

  * Pull the retainer clip from the axle shaft.  I have a piece
of steel wire with the end bent about 95 degrees.  The bent
end fits into the hole in the retainer clip.  I grip the
other end of the wire with vise grips and pull to remove
the retainer clip.

  * With the differential jack, jack the differential up as
high as it will go. This should mean it runs into the car
body and is just a bit higher than it's normal position.

  * Pull/push the axle shaft out of the wheel hub, slide it
past the hub toward the back of the car, and once that end
is free, pull the other end of the axle shaft out of the
differential.

 Reassembly is pretty much the reverse.  

  * First, clean the splines in the wheel hub and if necessary,
on the replacement axle shaft.  I lightly grease the axle
shaft splines to retard corrosion and make it all slide
together more easily.

  * Put the differential end of the axle shaft into the
differential.

  * Put the wheel end of the axle shaft into the wheel hub.

  * With the differential jack lower the differential.

  * Put the axle shaft retainer clip on in the differential.
Put the wheel hub retainer bolt in and snug it.

  * Put the differential cover on and tighten the bolts to
spec.

  * Using the differential jack, lift the differential so the
differential mount bolts can be put back in. Tighten to
spec.

  * Tighten the axle shaft wheel hub bolt to spec.

  * Put the brake caliper back on.

  * Put the wheel on.

  * Put Mobil 1 differential fluid in the differential.

  * Remove the differential jack.

  * Lower the car to the ground.

 

Re: [MBZ] axle RR tips?

2010-10-12 Thread Allan Streib
Rolf r...@winmutt.com writes:

 Also there are a few naysayers on Mobil 1 in the 2.88 diffs.

Too late!  Just filled mine with Mobil-1.  What are the concerns?

Allan
-- 
1983 300D

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Re: [MBZ] axle RR tips?

2010-10-12 Thread Allan Streib
Allan Streib str...@cs.indiana.edu writes:

 Rolf r...@winmutt.com writes:

 Also there are a few naysayers on Mobil 1 in the 2.88 diffs.

 Too late!  Just filled mine with Mobil-1.  What are the concerns?

Hm a little reading suggests that the 2.88 diff was only on the '85
W123.  Is that right?

Allan
-- 
1983 300D

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Re: [MBZ] axle RR tips?

2010-10-12 Thread Dieselhead
Glad it worked.  Did you buy the tool?  You are the first I know of 
who actually did this.  I did the split boots on my wabbitt, and they 
worked ok.




Finished this job tonight probably would have had it done on Sunday
but needed to wait on new seals which I had not ordered in advance.  I
was able to get the axles out with the calipers in place, so perhaps on
the sedan there is a bit more room.

The leaking boot was not completely torn open.  It would appear that I
noticed the leak while it was still just in the pinhole stage; there was
still a fair amount of oil in the joint.  Everything looked clean
inside.

The Flexx boots (http://dieselgiant.com/mercedesaxleshaftbootreplace.htm)
worked wonderfully.  I replaced all four, since the other three boots
were also dry rotted though not yet leaking.

All in all, not a bad job.  As with any job, having to lie on your back
under a car on stands makes everything take longer than it should... if
I win the lottery I'm building a garage with a lift.

Allan
--
1983 300D

Fmiser fmi...@gmail.com writes:


 Allan Streib wrote:



 I am getting ready to re-boot my axles.  Any tips on
 removing/reinstalling them?  Rusty indicated it's a PITA.  LOL.


 Last time I replaced an axle shaft (on a wagon) it took me
 less than an hour from putting the jack under the car to the
 car back on the ground. I've done it a few (too many) times.
 And I had just done it (the replacement axle shaft immediately
 began leaking) so all the bolts were clean and greased.

 Here's my procedure

  * Jack up the car enough to get under to drain the
differential oil.  It's a Good Idea (TM) to make sure the
fill plug can be opened before you drain.  The higher the
back of the car is jacked up, the less oil will drain out,
so I only jack up the car enough to get to the fill and
drain plugs.

  * While the oil is draining:

 - take off the wheel(s)

 - take off the brake caliper.  Yes, it really does need to
   come off.  I have tried many tricks to avoid it and
   always had to take it off.  Don't let the caliper hang
   by the hose, and try not to twist/stress the hose more
   than necessary.

 - remove the bolt that keeps the axle shaft in the wheel
   hub and push on the axle shaft to make sure it's loose
   in the hub.  I have never used a tool like the manual
   shows.  Occasionally I have had to tap the shaft out,
   but it's never been more than just a bit stiff.

  * Once the oil is fully drained, jack up the back of the car
to working height.  I like to have the lower shock mount
about 10-12 inches (25-30 cm) off the floor.  I get it this
high just to make it easier for me to work under there -
none of the parts install/removal process need the car that
high.

  * Put a jack under the front of the differential (after this
called the differential jack) and remove the four bolts
that hold the differential mount to the frame.

  * Remove the differential back cover. Lower the differential
a bit with the differential jack will make getting to the
top bolts much easier.  This part is especially tricky on a
wagon because the fuel tank and the suspension control
valve conspire to get in the way.  Lowering the
differential changes impossible to merely challenging.
The shape of the lip on the differential housing means
little or no oil will run out when the differential cover
is removed.

  * Pull the retainer clip from the axle shaft.  I have a piece
of steel wire with the end bent about 95 degrees.  The bent
end fits into the hole in the retainer clip.  I grip the
other end of the wire with vise grips and pull to remove
the retainer clip.

  * With the differential jack, jack the differential up as
high as it will go. This should mean it runs into the car

 body and is just a bit higher than it's normal position.


  * Pull/push the axle shaft out of the wheel hub, slide it
past the hub toward the back of the car, and once that end
is free, pull the other end of the axle shaft out of the
differential.

 Reassembly is pretty much the reverse. 


  * First, clean the splines in the wheel hub and if necessary,
on the replacement axle shaft.  I lightly grease the axle
shaft splines to retard corrosion and make it all slide
together more easily.

  * Put the differential end of the axle shaft into the
differential.

  * Put the wheel end of the axle shaft into the wheel hub.

  * With the differential jack lower the differential.

  * Put the axle shaft retainer clip on in the differential.
Put the wheel hub retainer bolt in and snug it.

  * Put the differential cover on and tighten the bolts to
spec.

  * Using the differential jack, lift the differential so the
differential mount bolts can be put back in. Tighten to
spec.

  * Tighten the axle shaft wheel hub bolt to spec.

  * Put the brake caliper 

Re: [MBZ] axle RR tips?

2010-10-12 Thread Allan Streib
Dieselhead 126die...@gmail.com writes:

 Glad it worked.  Did you buy the tool?  You are the first I know of
 who actually did this.  I did the split boots on my wabbitt, and they
 worked ok.

I did buy the tool.  Actually installing the boots was effortless.  I'm
not sure that the particular tool I got is operating correctly though.
When I release the trigger the piston does not retract, I had to knock
it back with the axle.  It seemed to be binding.  The tool comes with a
complete exploded parts diagram, so I might open it up and try to grease
it, or I might send it back.  I'm just not sure whether it's supposed to
work that way or not.

By the way, the Truck/SUV boots (model 3001) are the ones that fit the
Mercedes axles.  This is seen in the photos on the dieselgiant page, but
not mentioned in the writeup.

Allan
-- 
1983 300D

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