Re: [MBZ] How do you lubricate accelerator cables?

2010-10-24 Thread harry watkins
The bike places sell a little rubber device that clamps on the cable at one 
end.  There is then a small hole to insert an aerosol can tube of the lube 
of your choice.  About $14 for mine and it worked well for me.  I sprayed in 
Kroil.


Thanks
Harry
86 300 SDL ( going on the block shortly)

- Original Message - 
From: Euan goneb...@paradise.net.nz

To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Saturday, October 23, 2010 7:17 PM
Subject: [MBZ] How do you lubricate accelerator cables?



Gentlemen

The answer to this question is probably 'get new cables'. But here goes 
anyway.


I want to lubricate the two accelerator cables in my 300TD engine bay. Dry 
cables (now 400+ K miles old) may be contributing to occasional failures 
of my accelerator to return to idle. I've replaced associated struts and 
have lubricated all the mini ball-joints in the linkages.


I'm loathe to use WD40 which is the most likely to run freely between 
inner and outer. But how do you get light lubricating oil to run down the 
length of the cable?


Cheers

Euan

Christchurch
NZ

1985 W123 300TD 5-spd manual
221K miles

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Re: [MBZ] 1958 180D $1500

2010-10-24 Thread Mitch Haley

Kevin Kraly wrote:
Yeah, it would be fun puttin' around Hillsboro with it, drag racing the 
Geo Metros and LOSING!  But hey, it can run on biodiesel LOL!


I think he said something about an engine transplant.
How about a 1958 560SE, for example?

Mitch.

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Re: [MBZ] W107 resale values are in the tank

2010-10-24 Thread andrew strasfogel
Not just common but uninspiring, IMHO.

On Fri, Oct 22, 2010 at 10:06 PM, OK Don okd...@gmail.com wrote:

 I agree - it was built from late '72 to '90 (IIRC) - WAY too common. I've
 been surprised that the prices have stayed as high as they have for so
 long.

 On Fri, Oct 22, 2010 at 10:46 AM, Jim Cathey j...@windwireless.net
 wrote:

   I have a hard time believing that a pristine late W107 will ever be
 worth
  anywhere near this amount. [$45k]
 
 
  Probably never, as about 250,000 107's were made.
 
 --
 OK Don
 2001 ML320
 1992 300D 2.5T
 1990 300D 2.5T
 1997 Plymouth Grand Voyager
 ___
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Re: [MBZ] How do you lubricate accelerator cables?

2010-10-24 Thread Jaime Kopchinski
Important point here:  There are no cables on your throttle linkage.
Its all mechanical linkage.

As others have said, ATF is the lubricant to use.  You should first
take several pictures of the linkage so you can put it back the way it
was before you started.

Then, remove each piece one by one.  Clean both ball and socket using
a tooth brush, end of a rag, or anything else that might get into the
sockets.  Use ATF as the cleaner as well as lube.

Finally, remove the accelerator pedal.  There is a clip at the bottom
where it connects to the floor.  Slide it off the linkage shaft it
rides on... lubricate the shaft with some white grease. You might need
to replace the little plastic piece on the back of the pedal that
rides on the shaft... its cheap.  In fact, the whole pedal is cheap if
its falling apart.

Before starting the engine... carefully check the linkage is installed
properly, returns to idle by itself, and has full range of motion.

Jaime


On Sat, Oct 23, 2010 at 8:17 PM, Euan goneb...@paradise.net.nz wrote:
 Gentlemen

 The answer to this question is probably 'get new cables'. But here goes
 anyway.

 I want to lubricate the two accelerator cables in my 300TD engine bay. Dry
 cables (now 400+ K miles old) may be contributing to occasional failures of
 my accelerator to return to idle. I've replaced associated struts and have
 lubricated all the mini ball-joints in the linkages.

 I'm loathe to use WD40 which is the most likely to run freely between inner
 and outer. But how do you get light lubricating oil to run down the length
 of the cable?

 Cheers

 Euan

 Christchurch
 NZ

 1985 W123 300TD 5-spd manual
 221K miles

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Re: [MBZ] How do you lubricate accelerator cables?

2010-10-24 Thread Jim Cathey
I'm loathe to use WD40 which is the most likely to run freely between 
inner and outer. But how do you get light lubricating oil to run down 
the length of the cable?


I had a nearly-seized hood cable from the yard I was using to
replace a broken one.  I taped my vacuum pump to one end and
dipped the other in ATF.  Did the same thing with an idle
control cable on a 240D.

-- Jim



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[MBZ] OT Ford parts

2010-10-24 Thread ned kleinhenz
My daughter's Ford needs an alternator.
Can anybody recommend a counterpart to Rusty for 'merican cars?
You know .. someone who offers oe parts for a good price with excellent
service?

Ned Kleinhenz
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Re: [MBZ] OT Ford parts

2010-10-24 Thread Mitch Haley

ned kleinhenz wrote:

My daughter's Ford needs an alternator.
Can anybody recommend a counterpart to Rusty for 'merican cars?
You know .. someone who offers oe parts for a good price with excellent
service?


There's a discount outlet for Ferd factory parts, but I forget the address.
Rockauto.com and even Amazon.com can have good prices on aftermarket stuff.

advanceautoparts.com often has coupons for $40 off a $100 order, as long as 
there's no motor oil in the order.

Coupons here:
http://www.fatwallet.com/forums/topic_view.php?catid=18threadid=1023879start=0

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Re: [MBZ] OT Ford parts

2010-10-24 Thread Craig
On Sun, 24 Oct 2010 09:44:29 -0400 ned kleinhenz
ned.kleinh...@gmail.com wrote:

 My daughter's Ford needs an alternator.
 Can anybody recommend a counterpart to Rusty for 'merican cars?
 You know .. someone who offers oe parts for a good price with excellent
 service?

Someone posted to the list awhile back how to get to World Pac's entire
catalog (rather than just the Mercedes section). That may have included
American cars. Unfortunately, I don't recall the procedure.


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] OT Ford parts

2010-10-24 Thread buymbparts
Check my website, I may have it. I can let you know tomorrow.



Sent from my BlackBerry® wireless handheld

-Original Message-
From: ned kleinhenz ned.kleinh...@gmail.com
Sender: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com
Date: Sun, 24 Oct 2010 09:44:29 
To: Mercedes ListMercedes@okiebenz.com
Reply-To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: [MBZ] OT Ford parts

My daughter's Ford needs an alternator.
Can anybody recommend a counterpart to Rusty for 'merican cars?
You know .. someone who offers oe parts for a good price with excellent
service?

Ned Kleinhenz
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Re: [MBZ] OT Ford parts

2010-10-24 Thread buymbparts
Go to www.buymbparts.biz then click on shop now click on make and change 
Mercedes to Ford, then search engine electrical.



Sent from my BlackBerry® wireless handheld

-Original Message-
From: Craig diese...@pisquared.net
Sender: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com
Date: Sun, 24 Oct 2010 08:07:46 
To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Reply-To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT Ford parts

On Sun, 24 Oct 2010 09:44:29 -0400 ned kleinhenz
ned.kleinh...@gmail.com wrote:

 My daughter's Ford needs an alternator.
 Can anybody recommend a counterpart to Rusty for 'merican cars?
 You know .. someone who offers oe parts for a good price with excellent
 service?

Someone posted to the list awhile back how to get to World Pac's entire
catalog (rather than just the Mercedes section). That may have included
American cars. Unfortunately, I don't recall the procedure.


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] OT Ford parts

2010-10-24 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin

 flaps?

On 10/24/2010 8:44 AM, ned kleinhenz wrote:

My daughter's Ford needs an alternator.
Can anybody recommend a counterpart to Rusty for 'merican cars?
You know .. someone who offers oe parts for a good price with excellent
service?

Ned Kleinhenz
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-
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 10.0.1144 / Virus Database: 422/3215 - Release Date: 10/23/10




--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 95 E300, 94 S500, 92 500SEL, 92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic,
 91 350SDL, 91 300D, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL x2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro,
 85 190D, 84 190D, 84 300D euro manny, 76 240D, 76 300D,
http://www.okiebenz.com


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Re: [MBZ] W107 resale values are in the tank

2010-10-24 Thread Barry Stark
Don -
Does sound a bit excessive but you may be surprised what they will bring in
the right market. There is a fellow in Wilmington, CA who's business is
buying at auction and parting out 107s. If he gets one that is really clean
or maybe one that is not too badly damaged he will fix it up and then send
them to buyers in Europe or sometimes send just hard to find parts. They are
evidently very sought after over there and hard to find there. My son has a
friend from Germany, who is a pharmacist over there, that comes here to CA
occasionally to visit family. While here he will find good clean rust free
Mercedes cars of all years and chassis types to send back to Germany,
Russia, etc., maybe 2 or 3 per year.

Barry

 
  I have a hard time believing that a pristine late W107 will ever be
worth
  anywhere near this amount. [$45k]
  Probably never, as about 250,000 107's were made.



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Re: [MBZ] OT cycling helmets and...

2010-10-24 Thread Mitch Haley

Rich Thomas wrote:

I'll send you a pic tomorrow.


Found it.
http://i.imgur.com/HIQgb.jpg

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Re: [MBZ] OT cycling helmets and...

2010-10-24 Thread Mitch Haley

Mitch Haley wrote:

Rich Thomas wrote:

I'll send you a pic tomorrow.


Found it.
http://i.imgur.com/HIQgb.jpg




Actually, that wasn't Rich or even Col. Strickland.
I'm told it's Col. Russ Williams of CFB Trenton.

http://www.cbc.ca/canada/story/2010/10/18/col-williams-court-1018.html

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Re: [MBZ] W107 resale values are in the tank

2010-10-24 Thread David Bruckmann
I agree, even though I own one. I have always felt that the 107 looks totally 
uninteresting compared to the 113 it replaced. Having said that, for some 
reason the SLC has always fascinated me. The extra few inches in length seem to 
make the design work much better. And having the Euro bumpers makes a BIG 
difference.

When I bought my 450SLC, I was surprised to discover that it is SO comfortable 
and very fun to drive. It's like driving a supercharged 114! I think I'd be 
less pleased with a later 560SL, which had firmer shocks and front end bits 
poached from the 124.

D.

Andrew Strasfogel wrote:

Not just common but uninspiring, IMHO.

On Fri, Oct 22, 2010 at 10:06 PM, OK Don okd...@gmail.com wrote:

 I agree - it was built from late '72 to '90 (IIRC) - WAY too common. I've
 been surprised that the prices have stayed as high as they have for so
 long.

 On Fri, Oct 22, 2010 at 10:46 AM, Jim Cathey j...@windwireless.net
 wrote:

   I have a hard time believing that a pristine late W107 will ever be
 worth
  anywhere near this amount. [$45k]
 
 
  Probably never, as about 250,000 107's were made.
 

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Re: [MBZ] OT cycling helmets and...

2010-10-24 Thread WILTON
I'm still having to breath very slowly through my nose, and I was suddenly 
reminded of the image, again.  Have you no mercy for the weak of tummy and 
heart?   ;)))


Wilton

- Original Message - 
From: Mitch Haley m...@voyager.net

To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Sunday, October 24, 2010 12:10 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT cycling helmets and...



Mitch Haley wrote:

Rich Thomas wrote:

I'll send you a pic tomorrow.


Found it.
http://i.imgur.com/HIQgb.jpg




Actually, that wasn't Rich or even Col. Strickland.
I'm told it's Col. Russ Williams of CFB Trenton.

http://www.cbc.ca/canada/story/2010/10/18/col-williams-court-1018.html

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Re: [MBZ] W107 resale values are in the tank

2010-10-24 Thread OK Don
Really? I thought it was the same with the exception of the engines, tranny,
and ACC through the production span. (Oh, yes - and the reinforced front
sub-frame). I did enjoy the drive - handling of the SLC. Just not the fuel
gulping and dead rubber bits under the dash, leaking sunroof, torn up seats
---  great car otherwise.

On Sun, Oct 24, 2010 at 11:32 AM, David Bruckmann 
bruckma...@transcontinental.ca wrote:

 I think I'd be less pleased with a later 560SL, which had firmer shocks and
 front end bits poached from the 124.

 D.

-- 
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2001 ML320
1992 300D 2.5T
1990 300D 2.5T
1997 Plymouth Grand Voyager
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Re: [MBZ] W107 resale values are in the tank

2010-10-24 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin
 I too have never heard of 107's with 124 front end parts.  They 
all were basically 115 front ends.


On 10/24/2010 2:10 PM, OK Don wrote:

Really? I thought it was the same with the exception of the engines, tranny,
and ACC through the production span. (Oh, yes - and the reinforced front
sub-frame). I did enjoy the drive - handling of the SLC. Just not the fuel
gulping and dead rubber bits under the dash, leaking sunroof, torn up seats
---  great car otherwise.

On Sun, Oct 24, 2010 at 11:32 AM, David Bruckmann
bruckma...@transcontinental.ca  wrote:


I think I'd be less pleased with a later 560SL, which had firmer shocks and
front end bits poached from the 124.

D.


--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 95 E300, 94 S500, 92 500SEL, 92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic,
 91 350SDL, 91 300D, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL x2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro,
 85 190D, 84 190D, 84 300D euro manny, 76 240D, 76 300D,
http://www.okiebenz.com


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Re: [MBZ] W107 resale values are in the tank

2010-10-24 Thread OK Don
Now, if you could put a 124 rear end under it -- that might be a NICE
handling car!

On Sun, Oct 24, 2010 at 2:15 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin ka...@striplin.netwrote:

  I too have never heard of 107's with 124 front end parts.  They all were
 basically 115 front ends.


 On 10/24/2010 2:10 PM, OK Don wrote:

 Really? I thought it was the same with the exception of the engines,
 tranny,
 and ACC through the production span. (Oh, yes - and the reinforced front
 sub-frame). I did enjoy the drive - handling of the SLC. Just not the fuel
 gulping and dead rubber bits under the dash, leaking sunroof, torn up
 seats
 ---  great car otherwise.

 On Sun, Oct 24, 2010 at 11:32 AM, David Bruckmann
 bruckma...@transcontinental.ca  wrote:

 I think I'd be less pleased with a later 560SL, which had firmer shocks
 and
 front end bits poached from the 124.

 D.



OK Don
2001 ML320
1992 300D 2.5T
1990 300D 2.5T
1997 Plymouth Grand Voyager
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Re: [MBZ] How do you lubricate accelerator cables?

2010-10-24 Thread Euan

Thanks for this, Jaime.

There is indeed a cable in my accelerator set-up. It runs from the pedal 
to the physical linkages you mention.


In fact there are two cables, but the second runs from the idle adjustor 
knob.


So, ATF it is then. Not light lubricating oil.

I was planning to use a syringe and needle to force the oil down the cable.

Might do my push-bike cables at the same time.

I'll report back

Cheers

Euan



Important point here:  There are no cables on your throttle linkage.
Its all mechanical linkage.

As others have said, ATF is the lubricant to use.  You should first
take several pictures of the linkage so you can put it back the way it
was before you started.

Then, remove each piece one by one.  Clean both ball and socket using
a tooth brush, end of a rag, or anything else that might get into the
sockets.  Use ATF as the cleaner as well as lube.

Finally, remove the accelerator pedal.  There is a clip at the bottom
where it connects to the floor.  Slide it off the linkage shaft it
rides on... lubricate the shaft with some white grease. You might need
to replace the little plastic piece on the back of the pedal that
rides on the shaft... its cheap.  In fact, the whole pedal is cheap if
its falling apart.

Before starting the engine... carefully check the linkage is installed
properly, returns to idle by itself, and has full range of motion.

Jaime


On Sat, Oct 23, 2010 at 8:17 PM, Euangoneb...@paradise.net.nz  wrote:

Gentlemen

The answer to this question is probably 'get new cables'. But here goes
anyway.

I want to lubricate the two accelerator cables in my 300TD engine bay. Dry
cables (now 400+ K miles old) may be contributing to occasional failures of
my accelerator to return to idle. I've replaced associated struts and have
lubricated all the mini ball-joints in the linkages.

I'm loathe to use WD40 which is the most likely to run freely between inner
and outer. But how do you get light lubricating oil to run down the length
of the cable?

Cheers

Euan

Christchurch
NZ

1985 W123 300TD 5-spd manual
221K miles




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Re: [MBZ] OT cycling helmets and...

2010-10-24 Thread Mountain Man
OK Don wrote:
 we, the tax payers, we fotting the bill to treat those folks whom Darwin
 didn't quite take out of the pool 

Perhaps a better characterization of this is that we need to draw the
line as to when care and treatment stops.  Then we can see if Darwin
wins or not.  However, methinks that the 'professionals' in the
medical care biz will make you shed tears that you are not going to
make their next boat payment.  Care does not imply permanent
dependence.  There is a logical end of when medical practice stops.
We do not have an endless amount of cash to pay for the 'care' for
which we seem to argue support.  And the new insco paradigm coming in
this kountry will dictate that reality, real quick.  I really don't
care.
mao

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Re: [MBZ] OT cycling helmets and...

2010-10-24 Thread Mountain Man
WILTON wrote:
 Have you no mercy for the weak of tummy and
 heart?   ;)))

That is the question I ask of you, Wilton.
The image in my mind is that you looked good in spandex, ever?
A couple days ago you wrote: ...I just realized I probably wouldn't
look very good in spandex any more.  Did you wear spandex in the cock
- oops - pit?
mao

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Re: [MBZ] W107 resale values are in the tank

2010-10-24 Thread David Bruckmann
According to MB, the following are among the items that were changed for the 
560SL (only version 107.048):

Different spring rate
Harder shocks with shorter travel
Larger torsion bar (up 1mm to 26mm)
Front axle carrier (backwards compatible to previous 107/114/115)
Front lower ctrl arm (extended to change geometry; 124 balljoint)
Front upper ctrl arm (change of materials; replaceable balljoint)
Steering knuckle/arm (from 124)
Front hub (from 124/201)
Brake discs (from 124/201)
Steering (less travel, different pump)
Prop shaft carrier (124; changed shape of tunnel to accommodate)
Rear diff carrier (to get rid of the SL rear diff whine; better isolation, 
different mounts, and subframe mts left/right are different)
Axle shafts (from SEC, but no vibration dampers)
Fuel tank mount (because of the changed diff suspension)
A-pillars (they don't say what changed)
B-pillars (126 locks and strikers required redesign)
Doors (126 door handles)
Main floor (changed stiffening)
Rear floor (?)
Hood (cutout for larger brake booster)
Firewall (presumably for the booster)
Seats (more side bolstering)

And of course, the front skirt was changed and they added the little spoiler.

All of this from the R107 CD. There's a 560SL supplement.

From: Kaleb C. Striplin ka...@striplin.net
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] W107 resale values are in the tank

  I too have never heard of 107's with 124 front end parts.  They 
all were basically 115 front ends.

On 10/24/2010 2:10 PM, OK Don wrote:
 Really? I thought it was the same with the exception of the engines, tranny,
 and ACC through the production span. (Oh, yes - and the reinforced front
 sub-frame). I did enjoy the drive - handling of the SLC. Just not the fuel
 gulping and dead rubber bits under the dash, leaking sunroof, torn up seats
 ---  great car otherwise.

 On Sun, Oct 24, 2010 at 11:32 AM, David Bruckmann
 bruckma...@transcontinental.ca  wrote:

 I think I'd be less pleased with a later 560SL, which had firmer shocks and
 front end bits poached from the 124.

 D.




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[MBZ] OM617 chain crimp tool - how to use?

2010-10-24 Thread David Bruckmann
OK, so I've managed to borrow a chain crimper and I'm feeding in the chain 
today.

Any tips about how to use the crimping tool? Is it just visual, or is there a 
recommended torque or something that I can use to know that the crimp was 
correct and sufficient?

The engine manual only refers to the c-clip type of chain link. I have an extra 
master link in case I bugger it up...

D.

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Re: [MBZ] OT Ford parts

2010-10-24 Thread Craig
On Sun, 24 Oct 2010 15:05:45 + buymbpa...@gmail.com wrote:

 Go to www.buymbparts.biz then click on shop now click on make and
 change Mercedes to Ford, then search engine electrical.

Yes, of course, Rusty knows!

I went to www.buymbparts.biz, clicked on shop now, and then hovered my
mouse over Mercedes (which was the only active link in the vicinity)
and saw a pop-up that said, Click to select a different Vehicle Make. I
clicked Mercedes and the word Mercedes went away, but there was no
place to type in another make.

However, if you click on a year, you do get a page that shows different
makes of automobiles, from Acura to Workhorse.


Craig

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[MBZ] big vacuum line check valve

2010-10-24 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin
 Is the check valve in the main vacuum line from the pump to the 
booster available separate?  Its the valve that looks like its 
heat fitted to the plastic main line.  I went a broke off the 
nipple of the side line coming off this check valve while putting 
my 140 back together!!!  I dont want to have to replace the whole 
stupid line.  If anybody has a part number that would be great.


--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 95 E300, 94 S500, 92 500SEL, 92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic,
 91 350SDL, 91 300D, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL x2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro,
 85 190D, 84 190D, 84 300D euro manny, 76 240D, 76 300D,
http://www.okiebenz.com


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Re: [MBZ] OT cycling helmets and...

2010-10-24 Thread Walt Zarnoch
I'm not looking at that...

Walt

On Oct 24, 2010 1:33 PM, WILTON wilt...@nc.rr.com wrote:
 I'm still having to breath very slowly through my nose, and I was suddenly

 reminded of the image, again. Have you no mercy for the weak of tummy and
 heart? ;)))

 Wilton

 - Original Message -
 From: Mitch Haley m...@voyager.net
 To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
 Sent: Sunday, October 24, 2010 12:10 PM
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT cycling helmets and...


 Mitch Haley wrote:
 Rich Thomas wrote:
 I'll send you a pic tomorrow.

 Found it.
 http://i.imgur.com/HIQgb.jpg



 Actually, that wasn't Rich or even Col. Strickland.
 I'm told it's Col. Russ Williams of CFB Trenton.

 http://www.cbc.ca/canada/story/2010/10/18/col-williams-court-1018.html

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Re: [MBZ] OT cycling helmets and...

2010-10-24 Thread Mitch Haley

Walt Zarnoch wrote:

I'm not looking at that...


In Canukistan, they put a mass murderer who likes to dress up in bras and 
panties in command of an air force base. One of the women he killed was an air 
force corporal. He's become a national embarrassment, especially now that 
multiple pictures from his personal transvestite photo album are spreading 
around the internet.


Mitch,

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Re: [MBZ] OT cycling helmets and...

2010-10-24 Thread WILTON
'Have never worn spandex, ('wore nomex in the flight cabin - er, cockpit) 
but there was a time I might have looked good (to some, anyway) in it.


Wilton

- Original Message - 
From: Mountain Man maontin@gmail.com

To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Sunday, October 24, 2010 4:04 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT cycling helmets and...


WILTON wrote:

Have you no mercy for the weak of tummy and
heart? ;)))


That is the question I ask of you, Wilton.
The image in my mind is that you looked good in spandex, ever?
A couple days ago you wrote: ...I just realized I probably wouldn't
look very good in spandex any more.  Did you wear spandex in the cock
- oops - pit?
mao

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Re: [MBZ] OT Ford parts

2010-10-24 Thread buymbparts

Oops, sorry! Do that too.



Sent from my BlackBerry® wireless handheld

-Original Message-
From: Craig diese...@pisquared.net
Sender: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com
Date: Sun, 24 Oct 2010 14:35:46 
To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Reply-To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT Ford parts

On Sun, 24 Oct 2010 15:05:45 + buymbpa...@gmail.com wrote:

 Go to www.buymbparts.biz then click on shop now click on make and
 change Mercedes to Ford, then search engine electrical.

Yes, of course, Rusty knows!

I went to www.buymbparts.biz, clicked on shop now, and then hovered my
mouse over Mercedes (which was the only active link in the vicinity)
and saw a pop-up that said, Click to select a different Vehicle Make. I
clicked Mercedes and the word Mercedes went away, but there was no
place to type in another make.

However, if you click on a year, you do get a page that shows different
makes of automobiles, from Acura to Workhorse.


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] big vacuum line check valve

2010-10-24 Thread buymbparts

No.



Sent from my BlackBerry® wireless handheld

-Original Message-
From: Kaleb C. Striplin ka...@striplin.net
Sender: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com
Date: Sun, 24 Oct 2010 15:44:58 
To: mercedes Mailing Listmercedes@okiebenz.com
Reply-To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: [MBZ] big vacuum line check valve

  Is the check valve in the main vacuum line from the pump to the 
booster available separate?  Its the valve that looks like its 
heat fitted to the plastic main line.  I went a broke off the 
nipple of the side line coming off this check valve while putting 
my 140 back together!!!  I dont want to have to replace the whole 
stupid line.  If anybody has a part number that would be great.

-- 
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
  95 E300, 94 S500, 92 500SEL, 92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic,
  91 350SDL, 91 300D, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL x2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro,
  85 190D, 84 190D, 84 300D euro manny, 76 240D, 76 300D,
http://www.okiebenz.com


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Re: [MBZ] OT Ford parts

2010-10-24 Thread Curt Raymond
Try Rusty, he can get some stuff...

I've been using Rockauto.com, their prices are hard to beat. Just did a window 
regulator on the Ranger, Rock Auto came in at half of FLAPS...

-Curt

Date: Sun, 24 Oct 2010 09:44:29 -0400
From: ned kleinhenz ned.kleinh...@gmail.com
To: Mercedes List Mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: [MBZ] OT Ford parts
Message-ID:
    aanlktim+7reoam-hlimny1am_mmuc9mooudsv0pbp...@mail.gmail.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1

My daughter's Ford needs an alternator.
Can anybody recommend a counterpart to Rusty for 'merican cars?
You know .. someone who offers oe parts for a good price with excellent
service?

Ned Kleinhenz



  
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Re: [MBZ] OT Ford parts

2010-10-24 Thread buymbparts
If my prices look high jut call and I'll see what I can do.



Sent from my BlackBerry® wireless handheld

-Original Message-
From: Curt Raymond curtlud...@yahoo.com
Sender: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com
Date: Sun, 24 Oct 2010 14:31:10 
To: Diesel Listmercedes@okiebenz.com
Reply-To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT Ford parts

Try Rusty, he can get some stuff...

I've been using Rockauto.com, their prices are hard to beat. Just did a window 
regulator on the Ranger, Rock Auto came in at half of FLAPS...

-Curt

Date: Sun, 24 Oct 2010 09:44:29 -0400
From: ned kleinhenz ned.kleinh...@gmail.com
To: Mercedes List Mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: [MBZ] OT Ford parts
Message-ID:
    aanlktim+7reoam-hlimny1am_mmuc9mooudsv0pbp...@mail.gmail.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1

My daughter's Ford needs an alternator.
Can anybody recommend a counterpart to Rusty for 'merican cars?
You know .. someone who offers oe parts for a good price with excellent
service?

Ned Kleinhenz



  
___
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[MBZ] Subframe mount question

2010-10-24 Thread Curt Raymond
Okay now that I'm sufficiently calmed from yesterday's calamity...

How far into the mount should a subframe bushing sit? All the ones I've removed 
were flush, or rather fit to the shelf in the bushing so the bushing hung out 
maybe 3/16. All the ones I've put in hung WAY out, like 1/2 - 1... The 
mounts on my '83 240D hung like that for the duration which was maybe 5,000 
miles before the engine died. Still like that as far as I know.

Either I'm getting the wrong parts (doubtful) or I'm doing something massively 
wrong installing them (likely) or they will squash into place over time 
(doubtful).

-Curt



  
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Re: [MBZ] W107 resale values are in the tank

2010-10-24 Thread OK Don
Wow - that's a lot more than I realized!

On Sun, Oct 24, 2010 at 3:13 PM, David Bruckmann 
bruckma...@transcontinental.ca wrote:

 According to MB, the following are among the items that were changed for
 the 560SL (only version 107.048):

 Different spring rate
 Harder shocks with shorter travel
 Larger torsion bar (up 1mm to 26mm)
 Front axle carrier (backwards compatible to previous 107/114/115)
 Front lower ctrl arm (extended to change geometry; 124 balljoint)
 Front upper ctrl arm (change of materials; replaceable balljoint)
 Steering knuckle/arm (from 124)
 Front hub (from 124/201)
 Brake discs (from 124/201)
 Steering (less travel, different pump)
 Prop shaft carrier (124; changed shape of tunnel to accommodate)
 Rear diff carrier (to get rid of the SL rear diff whine; better isolation,
 different mounts, and subframe mts left/right are different)
 Axle shafts (from SEC, but no vibration dampers)
 Fuel tank mount (because of the changed diff suspension)
 A-pillars (they don't say what changed)
 B-pillars (126 locks and strikers required redesign)
 Doors (126 door handles)
 Main floor (changed stiffening)
 Rear floor (?)
 Hood (cutout for larger brake booster)
 Firewall (presumably for the booster)
 Seats (more side bolstering)

 And of course, the front skirt was changed and they added the little
 spoiler.

 All of this from the R107 CD. There's a 560SL supplement.

 From: Kaleb C. Striplin ka...@striplin.net
 To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] W107 resale values are in the tank
 
   I too have never heard of 107's with 124 front end parts.  They
 all were basically 115 front ends.
 
 

-- 
OK Don
2001 ML320
1992 300D 2.5T
1990 300D 2.5T
1997 Plymouth Grand Voyager
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Re: [MBZ] OT Ford parts

2010-10-24 Thread Greg Fiorentino
I've had good experiences with Rock also.

Greg

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com]
On Behalf Of Curt Raymond
Sent: Sunday, October 24, 2010 2:31 PM
To: Diesel List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT Ford parts

Try Rusty, he can get some stuff...

I've been using Rockauto.com, their prices are hard to beat. Just did a
window regulator on the Ranger, Rock Auto came in at half of FLAPS...

-Curt

Date: Sun, 24 Oct 2010 09:44:29 -0400
From: ned kleinhenz ned.kleinh...@gmail.com
To: Mercedes List Mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: [MBZ] OT Ford parts
Message-ID:
    aanlktim+7reoam-hlimny1am_mmuc9mooudsv0pbp...@mail.gmail.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1

My daughter's Ford needs an alternator.
Can anybody recommend a counterpart to Rusty for 'merican cars?
You know .. someone who offers oe parts for a good price with excellent
service?

Ned Kleinhenz



  
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Re: [MBZ] W107 resale values are in the tank

2010-10-24 Thread John Freer
Dave, thanks for posting that. I had a 85 SL and an 86 and I always
felt there was a big difference in interior comfort, handling and
ride. Your post confirmed that.

John

On Sun, Oct 24, 2010 at 1:13 PM, David Bruckmann
bruckma...@transcontinental.ca wrote:
 According to MB, the following are among the items that were changed for the 
 560SL (only version 107.048):

 Different spring rate
 Harder shocks with shorter travel
 Larger torsion bar (up 1mm to 26mm)
 Front axle carrier (backwards compatible to previous 107/114/115)
 Front lower ctrl arm (extended to change geometry; 124 balljoint)
 Front upper ctrl arm (change of materials; replaceable balljoint)
 Steering knuckle/arm (from 124)
 Front hub (from 124/201)
 Brake discs (from 124/201)
 Steering (less travel, different pump)
 Prop shaft carrier (124; changed shape of tunnel to accommodate)
 Rear diff carrier (to get rid of the SL rear diff whine; better isolation, 
 different mounts, and subframe mts left/right are different)
 Axle shafts (from SEC, but no vibration dampers)
 Fuel tank mount (because of the changed diff suspension)
 A-pillars (they don't say what changed)
 B-pillars (126 locks and strikers required redesign)
 Doors (126 door handles)
 Main floor (changed stiffening)
 Rear floor (?)
 Hood (cutout for larger brake booster)
 Firewall (presumably for the booster)
 Seats (more side bolstering)

 And of course, the front skirt was changed and they added the little spoiler.

 All of this from the R107 CD. There's a 560SL supplement.

From: Kaleb C. Striplin ka...@striplin.net
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] W107 resale values are in the tank

  I too have never heard of 107's with 124 front end parts.  They
all were basically 115 front ends.

On 10/24/2010 2:10 PM, OK Don wrote:
 Really? I thought it was the same with the exception of the engines, tranny,
 and ACC through the production span. (Oh, yes - and the reinforced front
 sub-frame). I did enjoy the drive - handling of the SLC. Just not the fuel
 gulping and dead rubber bits under the dash, leaking sunroof, torn up seats
 ---  great car otherwise.

 On Sun, Oct 24, 2010 at 11:32 AM, David Bruckmann
 bruckma...@transcontinental.ca  wrote:

 I think I'd be less pleased with a later 560SL, which had firmer shocks and
 front end bits poached from the 124.

 D.




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Re: [MBZ] OT Ford parts

2010-10-24 Thread Mitch Haley

Greg Fiorentino wrote:

I've had good experiences with Rock also.


I buy from Rock when something is Warehouse clearance - 30 day warranty for 
about half the normal price. That helps make up for the steep shipping rates.


Mitch.

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Re: [MBZ] big vacuum line check valve

2010-10-24 Thread Peter Frederick
Buy the whole line -- if the plastic is getting brittle, something  
else will break soon.


Not worth messing with in my experience.

Peter

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Re: [MBZ] Subframe mount question

2010-10-24 Thread Peter Frederick

What did you lubricate them with?  they won't go in dry.

Peter

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Re: [MBZ] big vacuum line check valve

2010-10-24 Thread Jim Cathey

Is the check valve in the main vacuum line from the pump to the
booster available separate?


I did this on the 560 SEL, and Shoe Goo, epoxy, etc., just won't
hold up in the heat.  The only thing that worked was to grab a
miscellaneous junkyard line, then use the heat gun to soften
the tecalan tubing to swap parts.  (Or buy a new one, of course!)

-- Jim



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[MBZ] OT: Generator theory.

2010-10-24 Thread Dieselhead

Hey Y'all,

I am puzzled with a generator problem.  Swapped with a supposedly 
good generator, but still no joy.  THis particular case does not have 
a full regulator, but a partial, called a cut off switch (it looks 
like a delco regulator on an old chevy with a generator.   This 
cut-off relay is attached to the generator, so this is supposed to be 
a known good one.


Troubleshooting so far:

From the armature terminal a wire goes to the cut-offswitch.  Inside 
there is a relay.  When i push down to make contact, the output 
terminal to the armature is energized.  I have not seen the relay 
engerize by itself


1.  With the engine running:  no voltage anywhere in the charging 
system except at the battery terminal on the cut-out switch.


2.  I checked continuity from the Field terminal to the resister, 
then through the resistor  All good, but I was not able to get from 
the resistor to ground.  I ran a temp ground from the resistor to the 
battery.  Started the engine, but still no generating.


3.  I checked continuity of what internal components of the cut-off 
relay that I could.  all appeared to be ok.



Ran out of daylight.   I was not able to check voltage when holding 
the relay switch closed AFTER i made sure the resister had a good 
ground.  Not enough hands.



IN theory:

THe battery voltage passes through the relay to the armature.
The field goes through a resister to ground.

Seems simple.  Is this the correct theory?  What should I check next?

Is there any danger of frying the generator if I hook the battery 
directly to the armature for testing at low engine rpm?


Seems like that and checking voltage , engine running, with the relay 
points closed are the next thing to check.


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Re: [MBZ] OT: Generator theory.

2010-10-24 Thread Craig
On Sun, 24 Oct 2010 19:18:07 -0500 Dieselhead 126die...@gmail.com wrote:

 Hey Y'all,
 
 I am puzzled with a generator problem.

For what vehicle?


  From the armature terminal a wire goes to the cut-offswitch.  Inside 
 there is a relay.  When i push down to make contact, the output 
 terminal to the armature is energized.  I have not seen the relay 
 engerize by itself

Can you get an ohmmeter on the relay's coil's terminals and measure its
resistance?


 1.  With the engine running:  no voltage anywhere in the charging 
 system except at the battery terminal on the cut-out switch.
 
 2.  I checked continuity from the Field terminal to the resister, 
 then through the resistor  All good, but I was not able to get from 
 the resistor to ground.  I ran a temp ground from the resistor to the 
 battery.  Started the engine, but still no generating.

Is there current flowing through the resistor under this condition? Does
the resistor really want to go to ground, or to the battery's positive?


 3.  I checked continuity of what internal components of the cut-off 
 relay that I could.  all appeared to be ok.
 
 
 Ran out of daylight.   I was not able to check voltage when holding 
 the relay switch closed AFTER i made sure the resistor had a good 
 ground.  Not enough hands.

Get a helper, or tie one lead of the voltmeter to the chassis some way.
That way you'll only need two hands.

 
 IN theory:
 
 THe battery voltage passes through the relay to the armature.
 The field goes through a resister to ground.
 
 Seems simple.  Is this the correct theory?  What should I check next?

As I mentioned above, the field winding's terminal may want to be
connected to the battery positive terminal because the other end of the
field winding may be grounded to the case of the generator.

 
 Is there any danger of frying the generator if I hook the battery 
 directly to the armature for testing at low engine rpm?

I don't know for sure. If all the relay does is connect the armature to
the battery, no. In that case, why bother changing connections; just push
the relay closed.


 Seems like that and checking voltage , engine running, with the relay 
 points closed are the next thing to check.

I think checking with the relay points closed is the first thing to check.


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] OT: Generator theory.

2010-10-24 Thread Dieselhead

On Sun, 24 Oct 2010 19:18:07 -0500 Dieselhead 126die...@gmail.com wrote:


 Hey Y'all,

 I am puzzled with a generator problem.


For what vehicle?


IH Tractor.  Positive ground, 6 v.  Battery voltage: 6.3v





  From the armature terminal a wire goes to the cut-offswitch.  Inside
 there is a relay.  When i push down to make contact, the output
 terminal to the armature is energized.  I have not seen the relay
 engerize by itself


Can you get an ohmmeter on the relay's coil's terminals and measure its
resistance?


I have not been able to find one side of the coil.  I plan to take 
the other one I took off to the auto electric shop to test and see if 
it is ok.  If it turns out to be ok, then the problem is elsewhere. 
I didn't plan to start this, but the weather was nice, and I thought 
all I was doing was swapping the generator.






 1.  With the engine running:  no voltage anywhere in the charging
 system except at the battery terminal on the cut-out switch.

 2.  I checked continuity from the Field terminal to the resister,
 then through the resistor  All good, but I was not able to get from
 the resistor to ground.  I ran a temp ground from the resistor to the
 battery.  Started the engine, but still no generating.


Is there current flowing through the resistor under this condition? Does
the resistor really want to go to ground, or to the battery's positive?


1.  I did not check for current after I did continuity.
2.It appears to be to ground.  it goes to the case of the LHDB 
selector switch, and that is attached to the electric box, which is a 
chassis ground.






 3.  I checked continuity of what internal components of the cut-off
 relay that I could.  all appeared to be ok.


 Ran out of daylight.   I was not able to check voltage when holding
 the relay switch closed AFTER i made sure the resistor had a good
 ground.  Not enough hands.


Get a helper, or tie one lead of the voltmeter to the chassis some way.
That way you'll only need two hands.


My old voltmeter had clips.  that was handy.  I have never seen 
another meter with clips.




 
  IN theory:
 
  THe battery voltage passes through the relay to the armature.
  The field goes through a resister to ground.
 
  Seems simple.  Is this the correct theory?  What should I check next?

As I mentioned above, the field winding's terminal may want to be
connected to the battery positive terminal because the other end of the
field winding may be grounded to the case of the generator.


It is basically a delco generator, the same as any 1950 chevy.  I 
don't know how it is wired.






 Is there any danger of frying the generator if I hook the battery
 directly to the armature for testing at low engine rpm?


I don't know for sure. If all the relay does is connect the armature to
the battery, no. In that case, why bother changing connections; just push
the relay closed.



 Seems like that and checking voltage , engine running, with the relay
 points closed are the next thing to check.


I think checking with the relay points closed is the first thing to check.


YES  Thanks.




Craig

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Re: [MBZ] OT: Generator theory.

2010-10-24 Thread Peter Frederick
If this is in fact a generator, it must produce current when spun.   
If not, either the brushes are bad, the commutator is so dirty they  
won't make contact, or you have an open winding.


The voltage regulator must be CLOSED with no voltage -- it opens to  
prevent overcharging.


I would check brushes and commutator condition, then make sure you  
have a solid connection to the battery and ground.  Most likely you  
have a wiring problem, but it's possible you have an open winding on  
the generator.


Peter

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Re: [MBZ] big vacuum line check valve

2010-10-24 Thread Dieselhead
As Rusty said, no, but if you can find the nipple that broke off: 
find a drill bit that is snug in the nipple.  note the size for 
future use.   Epoxy the nipple back on.  after the epoxy has cured 
fully (at least 24 hours)  run the drill bit in by hand to see if it 
goes through the epoxy joint.  Likely it won't.  Turn the drill by 
hand until you are through the epoxy.  Depending on how and where the 
break is, you may be able to reinforce the joint with brass tubing 
over the outside.


The takeoff is a metered flow, so that is why the hole has to be the 
right diameter.  Otherwise the amount metered is wrong.


You can look at the repair on my old SDL.  As far as I know, it is 
still holding.



 Is the check valve in the main vacuum line from the pump to the 
booster available separate?  Its the valve that looks like its heat 
fitted to the plastic main line.  I went a broke off the nipple of 
the side line coming off this check valve while putting my 140 back 
together!!!  I dont want to have to replace the whole stupid line. 
If anybody has a part number that would be great.


--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 95 E300, 94 S500, 92 500SEL, 92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic,
 91 350SDL, 91 300D, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL x2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro,
 85 190D, 84 190D, 84 300D euro manny, 76 240D, 76 300D,
http://www.okiebenz.com


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Re: [MBZ] big vacuum line check valve

2010-10-24 Thread LWB250
As others have suggested, replace the whole thing, line and all.  I have tried 
this several times, stubbornly convinced that I could replace the check valve 
only.  I was never successful, even with fairly new line heated to soften it.

MB (Rusty) sells the line with the valve installed as a complete part, I 
believe.

Dan 

--- On Sun, 10/24/10, Jim Cathey j...@windwireless.net wrote:

 From: Jim Cathey j...@windwireless.net
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] big vacuum line check valve
 To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
 Date: Sunday, October 24, 2010, 8:23 PM
  Is the check valve in the main
 vacuum line from the pump to the
  booster available separate?
 
 I did this on the 560 SEL, and Shoe Goo, epoxy, etc., just
 won't
 hold up in the heat.  The only thing that worked was
 to grab a
 miscellaneous junkyard line, then use the heat gun to
 soften
 the tecalan tubing to swap parts.  (Or buy a new one,
 of course!)
 
 -- Jim
 
 
 
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Re: [MBZ] OT: Generator theory.

2010-10-24 Thread Dieselhead

Wiring diagram:
http://s101.photobucket.com/albums/m46/farmallbob/Farmall%20Tractor%20Wiring%20Diagrams/?action=viewcurrent=03-6Voltcutoutanddistributor-rev-1.gif
(doesn't show the internal workings of the 4 position switch)


This has a diagram of the 4 position switch.
LHDB
L= low charge = field winding grounded through a resistor.
H = Field grounded directly.
D = High charge  plus dim headlights.
B = High charge plus bright headlights on.
http://www.tractorshed.com/cgi-bin/gallery/pieces_pic.cgi?pic=http;//www.tractorshed.com/gallery/pieces/p50454.jpgfirstrec=1lastrec=15Parameter=mode=Allwhat=pieces

SO:  what I get out of this is that high charge grounds the field. 
so if I ground the field, there should be no damage at low-med engine 
RPM.


AND: It appears that the battery can be connected to the armature.



ONE OTHER THOUGHT:  Somewhere I heard years ago that you can turn a 
generator into a motor by hooking up the + and - a certain way.  Does 
anyone now how to do that?  I could easily test the loose generator 
that way. and even the one on the engine should make a noticeable 
effort to turn the engine over. (for a second or so.)



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Re: [MBZ] How do you lubricate accelerator cables?

2010-10-24 Thread Fmiser
 Jaime Kopchinski wrote:

 Important point here:  There are no cables on your throttle
 linkage. Its all mechanical linkage.

What about right-hand steer?

I'm pretty sure Euan is in New Zealand.

Right?

--   Philip

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[MBZ] OT: Battery charging and emergency power

2010-10-24 Thread Dieselhead

Came across this while looking for how to motorize a Delco generator:

http://www.theepicenter.com/tow02077.html

Pretty interesting, and they sell the brackets and other parts.


That is about as nifty as knowing how to make a black box to run a 3 
phase Bridgeport on 1 phase juice.


(of course both are worthless unless you need it.)

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Re: [MBZ] How do you lubricate accelerator cables?

2010-10-24 Thread Dieselhead

Right.  MB builds a lot of stuff we never see in the US of A or norte Amerika



  Jaime Kopchinski wrote:


 Important point here:  There are no cables on your throttle
 linkage. Its all mechanical linkage.


What about right-hand steer?

I'm pretty sure Euan is in New Zealand.

Right?

--   Philip

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Re: [MBZ] OT: Generator theory.

2010-10-24 Thread Craig
On Sun, 24 Oct 2010 21:42:27 -0500 Dieselhead 126die...@gmail.com wrote:

 Wiring diagram:
 http://s101.photobucket.com/albums/m46/farmallbob/Farmall%20Tractor%20Wiring%20Diagrams/?action=viewcurrent=03-6Voltcutoutanddistributor-rev-1.gif
 (doesn't show the internal workings of the 4 position switch)
 
 This has a diagram of the 4 position switch.
 http://www.tractorshed.com/cgi-bin/gallery/pieces_pic.cgi?pic=http;//www.tractorshed.com/gallery/pieces/p50454.jpgfirstrec=1lastrec=15Parameter=mode=Allwhat=pieces
 
 SO:  what I get out of this is that high charge grounds the field. 
 so if I ground the field, there should be no damage at low-med engine 
 RPM.

The first link's schematic shows no way to ground the field directly.
Something is wrong here, but I cannot tell you if it's the first link or
the second link.


 AND: It appears that the battery can be connected to the armature.

My guess is that the cutout relay is energized by the generator and pulls
in to connect the generator to the battery when the engine is running,
working like a mechanical diode so the battery doesn't discharge through
the generator when the engine is not running.


 ONE OTHER THOUGHT:  Somewhere I heard years ago that you can turn a 
 generator into a motor by hooking up the + and - a certain way.  Does 
 anyone now how to do that? 

Hook the field up so it is powered by the battery and hook the armature
up to the battery and it should spin.


 I could easily test the loose generator that way. and even the one on
 the engine should make a noticeable effort to turn the engine over.
 (for a second or so.)

Given that it's intended to do the reverse and doesn't have the
mechanical advantage a starter does, I would expect there to be no
visible indication the generator is trying to turn the engine.

Try this: Disconnect all wires from the generator and measure the
resistance from the field terminal to the frame of the generator. Then
measure the resistance from the field terminal to the armature terminal.
One of the measurements should have a higher resistance (though maybe not
by much).

A generator, as used in these applications, has to have a residual
magnetic field in the field winding's core in order to start generating.
If that residual field has been lost, the generator will not generate.
You will need to flash the field with a battery (a momentary connection
to magnetize the field's iron core).

http://www.engineersedge.com/motors/generator_field_flashing.htm

http://www.generatorguide.net/howgeneratorworks.html


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] OT: Battery charging and emergency power

2010-10-24 Thread Walt Zarnoch
We've ran a phase converter for eons(years in any case), cheaper than paying
National Greed to do a polyphase drop.

Alternators are amazing things when you think about it, who doesn't have  at
least one in the parts bin and a gas powered something to put it on?

Walt

On Oct 24, 2010 11:33 PM, Dieselhead 126die...@gmail.com wrote:
 Came across this while looking for how to motorize a Delco generator:

 http://www.theepicenter.com/tow02077.html

 Pretty interesting, and they sell the brackets and other parts.


 That is about as nifty as knowing how to make a black box to run a 3
 phase Bridgeport on 1 phase juice.

 (of course both are worthless unless you need it.)

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Re: [MBZ] How do you lubricate accelerator cables?

2010-10-24 Thread Walt Zarnoch
I'd sure as heck want the part numbers for that linkage if possible!

Been looking all over heck and high water for an easy way to get the cable
on my truck mated to the mech linkage that doesn't involve me fabricating
more stuff...

I usually just get the spray tube close to the cable end, wrap a rag/rubber
glove around it, and spray. Works well enough for government work :)

Walt

On Oct 24, 2010 11:42 PM, Dieselhead 126die...@gmail.com wrote:
 Right. MB builds a lot of stuff we never see in the US of A or norte
Amerika


  Jaime Kopchinski wrote:

 Important point here: There are no cables on your throttle
 linkage. Its all mechanical linkage.

What about right-hand steer?

I'm pretty sure Euan is in New Zealand.

Right?

-- Philip

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Re: [MBZ] OT cycling helmets and...

2010-10-24 Thread Walt Zarnoch
Good god, now I need mental floss AND comet cleaner for the minds eye...

Walt

On Oct 24, 2010 4:57 PM, Mitch Haley m...@voyager.net wrote:
 Walt Zarnoch wrote:
 I'm not looking at that...

 In Canukistan, they put a mass murderer who likes to dress up in bras and
 panties in command of an air force base. One of the women he killed was an
air
 force corporal. He's become a national embarrassment, especially now that
 multiple pictures from his personal transvestite photo album are spreading

 around the internet.

 Mitch,

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Re: [MBZ] OT: Generator theory.

2010-10-24 Thread Dieselhead

Thanks Craig,

The schematic is not a real schematic as it does not show any of the 
grounds.  The field resister ends at the case of the LHDB switch, and 
that is chassis ground.  The text of the other link explains this.


Ja, I did polarize the new Generator.

I found this on a hotrod forum:

After reading up on how these work I found a few tests that could be 
done to verify their function
a) Disconnect the v-belt and wires, run power to the armature post 
and ground the field post. The generator should now spin and act as a 
motor, disrupting the field/ground circuit should make the speed go 
up. Mine spins like a motor but if there is a speed increase it's 
very very small.
b) Disconnect all wires, run the engine. Connect a voltage gauge 
across Armature and ground and then ground the Field post.
Voltage should now be linear to the engine speed and show up to 40 
volts. Mine shows nothing.


Measuring the resistance across the field coils shows abt 10 ohms and 
measuring the coils on some spare housings shows abt the same 
resistance.


Looks like motorizing would be an easy test., although the post above 
sounds like + to A and - to F and your description sounds opposite, 
although neither is specific.  It is is like most DC motors, the only 
difference is CW or CCW rotation, based on polarity.





On Sun, 24 Oct 2010 21:42:27 -0500 Dieselhead 126die...@gmail.com wrote:


 Wiring diagram:

http://s101.photobucket.com/albums/m46/farmallbob/Farmall%20Tractor%20Wiring%20Diagrams/?action=viewcurrent=03-6Voltcutoutanddistributor-rev-1.gif
 (doesn't show the internal workings of the 4 position switch)

 This has a diagram of the 4 position switch.

http://www.tractorshed.com/cgi-bin/gallery/pieces_pic.cgi?pic=http;//www.tractorshed.com/gallery/pieces/p50454.jpgfirstrec=1lastrec=15Parameter=mode=Allwhat=pieces

 SO:  what I get out of this is that high charge grounds the field.
 so if I ground the field, there should be no damage at low-med engine
 RPM.


The first link's schematic shows no way to ground the field directly.
Something is wrong here, but I cannot tell you if it's the first link or
the second link.



 AND: It appears that the battery can be connected to the armature.


My guess is that the cutout relay is energized by the generator and pulls
in to connect the generator to the battery when the engine is running,
working like a mechanical diode so the battery doesn't discharge through
the generator when the engine is not running.



 ONE OTHER THOUGHT:  Somewhere I heard years ago that you can turn a
 generator into a motor by hooking up the + and - a certain way.  Does
 anyone now how to do that?


Hook the field up so it is powered by the battery and hook the armature
up to the battery and it should spin.



 I could easily test the loose generator that way. and even the one on
 the engine should make a noticeable effort to turn the engine over.
 (for a second or so.)


Given that it's intended to do the reverse and doesn't have the
mechanical advantage a starter does, I would expect there to be no
visible indication the generator is trying to turn the engine.

Try this: Disconnect all wires from the generator and measure the
resistance from the field terminal to the frame of the generator. Then
measure the resistance from the field terminal to the armature terminal.
One of the measurements should have a higher resistance (though maybe not
by much).

A generator, as used in these applications, has to have a residual
magnetic field in the field winding's core in order to start generating.
If that residual field has been lost, the generator will not generate.
You will need to flash the field with a battery (a momentary connection
to magnetize the field's iron core).

http://www.engineersedge.com/motors/generator_field_flashing.htm

http://www.generatorguide.net/howgeneratorworks.html


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] OT: Generator theory.

2010-10-24 Thread Craig
On Sun, 24 Oct 2010 23:17:43 -0500 Dieselhead 126die...@gmail.com wrote:

 Thanks Craig,
 
 The schematic is not a real schematic as it does not show any of the 
 grounds.  The field resister ends at the case of the LHDB switch, and 
 that is chassis ground.  The text of the other link explains this.

I see.


 a) Disconnect the v-belt and wires, run power to the armature post 
 and ground the field post. The generator should now spin and act as a 
 motor, disrupting the field/ground circuit should make the speed go 
 up. Mine spins like a motor but if there is a speed increase it's 
 very very small.

I don't see how the speed would go up with the field winding not
connected.


 b) Disconnect all wires, run the engine. Connect a voltage gauge 
 across Armature and ground and then ground the Field post.
 Voltage should now be linear to the engine speed and show up to 40 
 volts. Mine shows nothing.


 Measuring the resistance across the field coils shows abt 10 ohms and 
 measuring the coils on some spare housings shows abt the same 
 resistance.

Then at least it's not open.


 Looks like motorizing would be an easy test., although the post above 
 sounds like + to A and - to F and your description sounds opposite, 
 although neither is specific.  

I think I said something confusing by saying, Hook the field up so it is
powered by the battery ...

What I meant was to get the battery powering the field winding in the
normal polarity. With a positive ground system, it sounds like negative
battery terminal to armature terminal to power armature and field winding
(which apparently has its other end connected to the armature terminal),
and positive terminal (ground) to the field terminal.


 It is is like most DC motors, the only difference is CW or CCW
 rotation, based on polarity.

Yes, that is true, but you want the correct polarity. You don't want the
generator putting out +6 volts when the battery wants -6 volts.


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] OM617 chain crimp tool - how to use?

2010-10-24 Thread David Bruckmann
Well, my timing chain installation went well, except that NEITHER of the 
supplied links would fit onto the master link supplied in the box with the IWIS 
chain.

Seems like they included two of the outside links instead of one outside and 
one sliding middle link. Even with the proper tool, it isn't possible to force 
the MIDDLE link into position when the chain is on the camshaft sprocket 
because of how the neighbouring links interfere with the chain. It can only 
work with a slip-on middle link.

Fortunately, when I bought the chain I had also obtained a spare master link. I 
actually THOUGHT I was ordering the kind with the c-clips, but alas when it 
arrived it was the swage/crimp-on type just like the one included with the 
chain. An important difference though: the spare master link was indeed 
supplied with two different link plates, one designed to slip on without force 
as the middle link, and one that is forced on with the tool. They were even 
different colours.

So I slid the middle link plate into position and used the tool to press the 
outside link plate on, then swaged the ends using the tool.

For reference, numbers for the separate IWIS master link were:
IWIS D67HP-7
IWIS 00028304
MB# 000 997 28 98
Rusty online: W0133-1641676

The master link that came with the chain was marked IWIS D67HP-2 (Article 
70006673). Both link plates were the same colour.

Hope this helps someone somewhere.

And after all that fuss, the new chain reads almost exactly the same offset as 
the old chain: 15 degrees ATDC (!), a slight improvement from 17 degrees. Next 
step is to remove an injector and use the lift method to check where actual TDC 
is, followed by a check of start of delivery on the IP. Perhaps the harmonic 
balancer is not positioned correctly, or perhaps the original chain had skipped 
a tooth on the cam sprocket...

Once that's all solved, my set of brand new Monark injectors go in!

D.


At 9:31 PM + 10/24/10, mercedes-requ...@okiebenz.com wrote:
--

Message: 5
Date: Sun, 24 Oct 2010 13:17:27 -0700
From: David Bruckmann bruckma...@transcontinental.ca
To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: [MBZ] OM617 chain crimp tool - how to use?
Message-ID: f06240801c8ea43f6c...@[192.168.2.108]
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

OK, so I've managed to borrow a chain crimper and I'm feeding in the chain 
today.

Any tips about how to use the crimping tool? Is it just visual, or is there a 
recommended torque or something that I can use to know that the crimp was 
correct and sufficient?

The engine manual only refers to the c-clip type of chain link. I have an 
extra master link in case I bugger it up...

D.


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