Re: [MBZ] OT Mac time machine

[Fmiser]

> > Dieselhead wrote:
> > 
> > Is there a utility or synch tool that will compare files in
> > a time machine backup and restore the files from the time
> > machine that are not on the current laptop hard drive?

> Dan Penoff wrote:
> 
> Not that I am aware of.
>
> I could have used a similar thing myself while restoring my
> iMac today.  All I needed to do was add or replace files that
> had been modified since my weekly disk image was made, but
> that's not possible.

Command line.

I'm presuming you are wanting to retrieve files from the backup
'cause timemachine already only saves the files that have
changed.

The command "find" can search based on modified time, size,
name, type, etc.  It can also execute a command to act on each
resulting match.

--  Philip

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Re: [MBZ] OT Mac time machine

[Dieselhead]

I got er done.

moved all docs on the computer to a file called documents 1. 
restored docs, then copied the docs 1 contents to documents.  Seems 
like I have everything.  I will keep checking.


I even got all my email back except 12 21 11 to 2/25.  I will be 
backing up more often.




On Mar 10, 2012, at 11:29 PM, Fmiser wrote:


 Dieselhead wrote:



 Is there a utility or synch tool that will compare files in a
 time machine backup and restore the files from the time
 machine that are not on the current laptop hard drive?




Not that I am aware of.

I could have used a similar thing myself while restoring my iMac 
today.  All I needed to do was add or replace files that had been 
modified since my weekly disk image was made, but that's not 
possible.


It's all or nothin.

Dan



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Re: [MBZ] OT Mac time machine

[Dan Penoff]

On Mar 10, 2012, at 11:29 PM, Fmiser wrote:

>> Dieselhead wrote:
> 
>> Is there a utility or synch tool that will compare files in a
>> time machine backup and restore the files from the time
>> machine that are not on the current laptop hard drive?
> 

Not that I am aware of.

I could have used a similar thing myself while restoring my iMac today.  All I 
needed to do was add or replace files that had been modified since my weekly 
disk image was made, but that's not possible.

It's all or nothin.

Dan



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Re: [MBZ] OT Mac time machine

[Fmiser]

> Dieselhead wrote:

> Is there a utility or synch tool that will compare files in a
> time machine backup and restore the files from the time
> machine that are not on the current laptop hard drive?

You simply want all the files that exist in the backup but don't
exist on the system?

Plain old copy, just say "no" to overwrite.

--   Philip

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[MBZ] Secret message for Kaleb

[Dieselhead]

Do you have a good turbo for an OM603?  If so, How much?

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Re: [MBZ] VW Westfalia campers?

[Rolf]

As a eurvan owner I can warn all to stay away from them
-- 
please excuse the delay in response, I had to wait for the tape to rewind on my 
commodore 64.

Allan Streib  wrote:

I would go for the last gen Vanagon with Westy kit. (I think '91 was
the last year for the USA, not sure about Canada).

That will get you air conditioning (at least the chance of it, it may
not work). All the water-cooled Vanagons have decent heat, particularly
in comparison to the earlier air-cooled Vanagons and microbuses.

The 2.1 l boxer engine is a weak point, often develop head gasket leaks,
religous coolant changes may help avoid issues but it's fundamentally a
bad design. The "Digifant" engine management system is rather primitive
as well, and at 20+ years of age the electronics are no longer really
reliable.

Check engine compartment fuel hoses for cracks, several are positioned
right above the exhaust and if they start leaking you'll have good
chance for a fire.

Many people swap in a Subaru engine or even a Ford Zetec (see
http://www.bostig.com) as much for reliability as additional power.

Be sure you run the proper tires, the vehicles are heavy and need a load
range "C" tire. The Hankook RA-08 are favored among Vanagon owners.

A westy in good condition, properly maintained and with a professional
engine transplant will not be cheap. Then again, a cheap Westy is about
like a cheap Mercedes.

Allan


Curt Raymond  writes:

> I think '79 or '80 was the last year for the proper microbus, after that you 
> get into the Vanagon which I'll admit has grown on me over the years. The 2l 
> engine in the Vanagon is a monster for power compared to the early 1600cc.
>
> Best would be to find one with a no-rust body but a tired or completely dead 
> engine. IIRC for $3k you can do a really nice brand new engine. $3k in paint 
> isn't a whole lot on something so tall and long.
>
> I'd love to have one too, my wife and I dream of someday driving across the 
> US and a VW is our #2 choice. Number 1 would be a 123 300TD turbo. The MB 
> wagon is such a nice driving car and a wagon would have plenty of space for 
> stuff and an air mattress for occasional camping for 2.
>
> -Curt
>
> Date: Fri, 9 Mar 2012 01:35:30 -0500
> From: E M 
> To: Mercedes Discussion List 
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] VW Westfalia campers?
> Message-ID:
> 
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
>
> Hey Guys,
>
> As we're talking about alternative modes of transport, do any of you have
> any experience with old VW campers? I've always wanted one, but have no
> idea of what the current market is. I'd like an older 70-80s one. Older
> would be cool, but I suspect the price for a decent one would be quite
> high. Redoing paint, interior, brakes and tires and such would be fine,
> but I'd want one with a good solid body (work in that area previously done)
> and a sound engine, that just needs going over and having the rubber bits
> replaced.
>
> Any idea of the best place to look for these?
>
> Any thoughts on these welcome.
>
> Ed
> 300E
>
>_

> http://www.okiebenz.com
> For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
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>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>

-- 
1983 300D
1979 300SD

_

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Re: [MBZ] BMW motorcycles

[Rolf]

I am a big fan of the vfr750 (800 now). Plenty of old farts tour on those. My 
next bike will be a BMW.
-- 
please excuse the delay in response, I had to wait for the tape to rewind on my 
commodore 64.

Curt Raymond  wrote:

Yeah thats mostly my thoughts on the issue. BMW makes crotch rockets too ;).

I'd thought about getting a more upright pair of handlebars for mine but it'd 
ruin the look and originality of what I've got.

I'm also not a fan of cruisers. I've ridden a couple and just don't like that 
leaning back thing. I want more of a standard, sit up kind of position.

I did see a CB400 on Craigslist for very small money. They're considered very 
girly which keeps the price down. Might be a fun toy for a summer.

-Curt

Date: Thu, 8 Mar 2012 21:35:02 -0700
From: G Mann 
To: Mercedes Discussion List 
Subject: Re: [MBZ] BMW motorcycles
Message-ID:

Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1

My 0.02 cents worth.

If you are looking for a painful to ride, crotch rocket that makes noise
like a Formula 1 car, keep what you have.

If you want a civilized touring bike that can carry two, makes good power,
operates smoothly, buy the BMW.

The BMW rides differently than what you are now using, but it's a quick
adjustment and I believe it might fit what you want for use.

I've been coast to coast a couple of times on BMW bikes and at the end of
each day they hadn't beat me up nearly as bad as other bikes I've ridden
distance.

Grant...


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Re: [MBZ] BMW motorcycles

[Curt Raymond]

I didn't realize they'd ever offered the Silverwing without a fairing. I looked 
at one some time ago and liked it except for the fairing which on the one I 
looked at was too much...

-Curt

Date: Sat, 10 Mar 2012 13:40:08 -0800
From: Alex Chamberlain 
To: Mercedes Discussion List 
Subject: Re: [MBZ] BMW motorcycles
Message-ID:

Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1

On Mar 9, 2012 11:13 AM, "Fmiser"  wrote:
>
> All this talk of Goldwings and touring bikes and nobody has
> mentioned Moto Guzzi?
>

I have a Honda Guzzi:
http://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Honda_CX_series

An '82 Silverwing, to be precise.  Like the name suggests, it was Honda's
attempt to create a cheaper little sister to the Goldwing.  Mine doesn't
have the full fairing setup, but the side bags are useful for small
shopping trips.

Alex


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Re: [MBZ] 603 turbo WAS:smokin SDL

[Brian Toscano]

The Garrett and KKK turbochargers are interchangeable and both were used.


On Sat, Mar 10, 2012 at 2:32 PM, Dieselhead <126die...@gmail.com> wrote:

> Does anyone know what turbo is on an 87 SDL?  Garret or KKK?
>
> It looks like some things are accessible from above, and some from below.
>  What is the best method for getting the turbo out?
>
>
>
>
>
> I think I am on to something.  With the crossover off, the insides are
> abnormally clean.  Like a complete M1 wash.  No gunk, no black, except
> where oil has pooled a little.
>
> Started up the engine.  when I revved up the engine enough so that the
> turbo started, and held it there, there was oil climbing up the throat of
> the turbo and running counterclockwise to the high side of the throat.  if
> I ran the RPM up to 3k or so, then the air blew away the oil.
>
> It is not enough to get a bath.  I am suspecting that what I am seeing is
> enough to wash the crossover/intake clean, smoke, especially on startup,
> and washdown the port side of the engine through the crossover pipe not
> being sealed well.
>
> My guess is that any visible oil is too much oil.  Is this correct?
>
> The turbo seal failures I have heard of have been catastrophic.  This is
> not.  But I suppose it could go catastrophic at any time.
>
> Any body got a cheap source for a turbo cartridge?  Les Blumner had a
> source that was something like $80.  I have seen $250.
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Got the SDL jacked up today to look for leaks.  Compressor side of Turbo
> is all wet with oil.  It is NOT washed clean from the oil.  The drain pipe
> is not oily.  the top mount of the drain pipe is wet, and it looks like
> from above.  The bottom mount is also wet, but no signs of a major leak.
>  the vacuum pod that controls the wastegate is coated with dirt and oil,
> but nothing fresh.  I could not find the pressure line that feeds the
> turbo.  Where do you see it?
>
> Left side of engine is wet and oily all over.  I knew the shutoff oring on
> the IP is bad, had ordered replacements from Q last week. no signs of oil
> leaking out from the head to block seam.  No oil leaks apparent from IP to
> block.  That oring was new last summer. Even the shutoff on top of the IP
> is wet with oil.  Oil all over the IP, the fuel heater, left motor mount,
> the head, and the side of the block.  Left side of the oil pan is washed
> clean from oil.  Bottom of oil pan is coated and dripping oil.
>
> When I looked where the car has been parked, the oil is pretty much
> centered under the car.  Like dripping off the oil pan.  Front seal shows
> no sign of excessive leakage.
>
> What is up with this?  how does oil get all over the side of the engine
> with no sign of  valve cover leaking?
>
> here is my new theory:  if the turbo is leaking AND the crossover pipe to
> intake manifold is leaking out the bottom, then an oil spray could be blown
> all over the engine when the turbo is spooled up. That could account for
> the head being wet with oil on the left side, but the valve cover does not
> leak.  Would account for smokin and leaking.  It would also account for oil
> all over the compressor side of the turbo:  Oil in the crossover and the
> feed pipe drains down and pools in the compressor, with seepage out the air
> intake hose fitting to the turbo.
>
>
> I am off to remove the crossover and start it up and see if an oil shower
> results.
>
> Subject is 87 SDL OM603.
>
> I had the 126 CD on this computer before the HD died.  It is gone now.
>  Ceerap.  I left the cds at home.
>
>
>
>
>
>  Could be a bad turbo, which will cause all the problems other than the
>> oil drip (unless the drain tube is bad too).  I've had this happen in my
>> old Volvo -- an amazing amount of coked oil in the exhaust.  Leaking turbo
>> seals can put quite a bit of oil into the intake -- I'm thinking mine is
>> shot due to excess oil consumption and lousy performance at light throttle,
>> same as the Volvo when the turbo quit on it.
>>
>> One thing to check for -- does it clank too?  If so, bent #1 rod because
>> you didn't replace the head gasket before #1 cylinder filled up with oil on
>> an intake stroke from a failed head gasket there.
>>
>> Peter
>>
>>
>> On Mar 4, 2012, at 2:02 PM, dave walton wrote:
>>
>>  I'll second that. Leak is probably in the front of the engine. Oil is
>>> being blown back to where it collects and drips. I've found UV dye and
>>> a UV LED flashlight to help in finding the source.
>>>
>>> I've only had one leaking turbo. It was leaking into the intake. If
>>> you remove the crossover tube and stand in the right place on the
>>> drivers side while you rev the engine, you will get a nice oil bath
>>> :-)
>>>
>>> Wash, rinse, and repeat 3 times to get dirty M1 out of your hair. My
>>> wife said she could still smell it for a week.
>>>
>>> -Dave Walton
>>>
>>>
>>> On Sun, Mar 4, 2012 at 1:57 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin 
>>> wrote:
>>>
 Blown head gasket

 Sent from my iPhone

 On Mar 4, 2012, at 10:49 

Re: [MBZ] OT Mac time machine

[Craig]

On Sat, 10 Mar 2012 16:47:19 -0500 Allan Streib 
wrote:

> Dieselhead <126die...@gmail.com> writes:
> 
> > Yes, I am only talking about stuff in the documents folder.  Music and
> > photos I will just move manually.  nothing new there.  Is rsync a
> > built in utility?  I did a search but did not find it.
> 
> rsync is a command-line utility.  You would run it from the Terminal.
> It has a laundry list of options.  You might want the -u (update
> option): 
> 
> -u, --update
>   This forces rsync to skip any files which exist on the
> destination  and  have  a  modified  time that is newer than the
> source file.  (If an existing destination file has a modification time
>   equal to the source file's, it will be updated if the sizes
> are different.)
> 
> Maybe as simple as:
> 
>   rsync -u /time/machine/source /your/target/dir
> 
> ...but wise to experiment with a copy first.


rsync -auLKnv# To run without actually doing the work ("n") and 
  # see what will actually be done ("v").

rsync -auLK  # To do the work.

-a, --archive   archive mode; equals -rlptgoD (no -H,-A,-X)
-u, --updateskip files that are newer on the receiver
-L, --copy-linkstransform symlink into referent file/dir
-K, --keep-dirlinks treat symlinked dir on receiver as dir
-n, --dry-run   perform a trial run with no changes made
-v, --verbose   increase verbosity

But check the Mac man page, first, to make sure the options are the same.



> ...but wise to experiment with a copy first.

Good idea.


> Get a cup of coffee and run "man rsync" in a Terminal window.  You can
> pretty much ignore everything having to do with remote copies since both
> your source and destination are local.

Read the man page!


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] OT Mac time machine

[Dieselhead]

yeah, I think i was overthinking it.  Your suggestion it simple and 
works.  Thanks.

I am off to start down that road.



Wouldn't it make the most sense to only copy your user directory files?  I
would be cautious against trying to copy OS files that way.  You can
probably rsync your user directory on Time Machine back to your new hard
drive.  Or better still, copy your user directory to a backup location,
then use Time Machine to restore your computer, and restore your user
directory using rsync from the the backup location.  That way you get
exactly what you had, plus any files you created.


On Sat, Mar 10, 2012 at 12:02 PM, Dan Penoff  wrote:


 Gotcha.

 You will have to pay for it, but it's money well spent:

 Super File Synchronizer.

 I use it to manage my backups between my machines and my Xserve RAID
 volumes.

 Highly configurable and can be scheduled. I highly recommend it.

 Dan


 Dieselhead <126die...@gmail.com> wrote:

 >The main thing is that I don't want to restore old files over the top
 >of new files and lose newer info.
 >
 >Hard drive died, the dealer put in a new drive, installed the OS and
 >whatever he could recover.  I was about 10 days before I could get to
 >my backed up files.  I was looking for a utility that would compare
 >the drive with the backup and give me a sort of what was not on the
 >drive.
 >
 >
 >>Not sure I totally understand what you are trying to accomplish, but
 >>why not just restore the files to the machine and copy them to your
 >>destination of choice using whatever means is necessary?
 >>
 >>Dan
 >>
 >>Dieselhead <126die...@gmail.com> wrote:
 >>
 >>>Is there a utility or synch tool that will compare files in a time
 >>>machine backup and restore the files from the time machine that are
 >>>not on the current laptop hard drive?
 >>>
 >>>
 >>>One other approach I could take is to isolate the files from the past
 >>>10 days or so, then do a full restore.  After the restore, move the
 >>  >isolated files to replace the older files from backup.
 >>  >
 >
 >___
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 >
 >To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
 >http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
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Re: [MBZ] OT Mac time machine

[Allan Streib]

Allan Streib  writes:

> Maybe as simple as:
>
>   rsync -u /time/machine/source /your/target/dir
>
> ...but wise to experiment with a copy first.

Oops actually I think that would be:

   rsync -u /time/machine/source/ /your/target/dir

rsync is sensitive to whether the path ends in a / or not.  If it ends
in a / that basically means "contents of" so the above would sync the
contents of the directory /time/machine/source to /your/target/dir.

There is a -n option that does a "dry run" which is good to use until
you are comfortable with what is about to happen.

Allan
-- 
1983 300D
1979 300SD

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Re: [MBZ] OT Mac time machine

[Allan Streib]

Dieselhead <126die...@gmail.com> writes:

> Yes, I am only talking about stuff in the documents folder.  Music and
> photos I will just move manually.  nothing new there.  Is rsync a
> built in utility?  I did a search but did not find it.

rsync is a command-line utility.  You would run it from the Terminal.
It has a laundry list of options.  You might want the -u (update
option): 

-u, --update
  This forces rsync to skip any files which exist on the  destina-
  tion  and  have  a  modified  time that is newer than the source
  file.  (If an existing destination file has a modification  time
  equal  to the source file's, it will be updated if the sizes are
  different.)

Maybe as simple as:

  rsync -u /time/machine/source /your/target/dir

...but wise to experiment with a copy first.

Get a cup of coffee and run "man rsync" in a Terminal window.  You can
pretty much ignore everything having to do with remote copies since both
your source and destination are local.

Allan

-- 
1983 300D
1979 300SD

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Re: [MBZ] BMW motorcycles

[Alex Chamberlain]

On Mar 9, 2012 11:13 AM, "Fmiser"  wrote:
>
> All this talk of Goldwings and touring bikes and nobody has
> mentioned Moto Guzzi?
>

I have a Honda Guzzi:
http://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Honda_CX_series

An '82 Silverwing, to be precise.  Like the name suggests, it was Honda's
attempt to create a cheaper little sister to the Goldwing.  Mine doesn't
have the full fairing setup, but the side bags are useful for small
shopping trips.

Alex
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Re: [MBZ] OT Mac time machine

[Brian Toscano]

You may need to download rsync (free).  It is a command line program.  What
Dan suggested sounds like a GUI based version of rsync.


You can also rename your existing Documents folder to something like
"Documents.tmp" and then restore your entire Documents folder from Time
Machine to your local system.  Then just tell Finder to copy Documents.tmp
to Documents.  It will prompt if you want to overwrite files before doing
so.

If it was me, I would backup my local drive, do a total Time Machine
restore, and then sync my local user directory backup to what Time Machine
restored.  That way all your Apps, settings, and files you forgot to
manually sync are preserved.  More work up front, but probably less work
overall.



On Sat, Mar 10, 2012 at 1:47 PM, Dieselhead <126die...@gmail.com> wrote:

> Yes, I am only talking about stuff in the documents folder.  Music and
> photos I will just move manually.  nothing new there.  Is rsync a built in
> utility?  I did a search but did not find it.
>
>
>
>  Wouldn't it make the most sense to only copy your user directory files?  I
>> would be cautious against trying to copy OS files that way.  You can
>> probably rsync your user directory on Time Machine back to your new hard
>> drive.  Or better still, copy your user directory to a backup location,
>> then use Time Machine to restore your computer, and restore your user
>> directory using rsync from the the backup location.  That way you get
>> exactly what you had, plus any files you created.
>>
>>
>> On Sat, Mar 10, 2012 at 12:02 PM, Dan Penoff  wrote:
>>
>>   Gotcha.
>>>
>>>  You will have to pay for it, but it's money well spent:
>>>
>>>  Super File Synchronizer.
>>>
>>>  I use it to manage my backups between my machines and my Xserve RAID
>>>  volumes.
>>>
>>>  Highly configurable and can be scheduled. I highly recommend it.
>>>
>>>  Dan
>>>
>>>
>>>  Dieselhead <126die...@gmail.com> wrote:
>>>
>>>  >The main thing is that I don't want to restore old files over the top
>>>  >of new files and lose newer info.
>>>  >
>>>  >Hard drive died, the dealer put in a new drive, installed the OS and
>>>  >whatever he could recover.  I was about 10 days before I could get to
>>>  >my backed up files.  I was looking for a utility that would compare
>>>  >the drive with the backup and give me a sort of what was not on the
>>>  >drive.
>>>  >
>>>  >
>>>  >>Not sure I totally understand what you are trying to accomplish, but
>>>  >>why not just restore the files to the machine and copy them to your
>>>  >>destination of choice using whatever means is necessary?
>>>  >>
>>>  >>Dan
>>>  >>
>>>  >>Dieselhead <126die...@gmail.com> wrote:
>>>  >>
>>>  >>>Is there a utility or synch tool that will compare files in a time
>>>  >>>machine backup and restore the files from the time machine that are
>>>  >>>not on the current laptop hard drive?
>>>  >>>
>>>  >>>
>>>  >>>One other approach I could take is to isolate the files from the past
>>>  >>>10 days or so, then do a full restore.  After the restore, move the
>>>  >>  >isolated files to replace the older files from backup.
>>>  >>  >
>>>  >
>>>  >_**__
>>>  >http://www.okiebenz.com
>>>  >For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
>>>  >To search list archives 
>>> http://www.okiebenz.com/**archive/
>>>  >
>>>  >To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>>>  
>>> >http://mail.okiebenz.com/**mailman/listinfo/mercedes_**okiebenz.com
>>>  __**_
>>>  http://www.okiebenz.com
>>>  For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
>>>  To search list archives 
>>> http://www.okiebenz.com/**archive/
>>>
>>>  To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>>>  
>>> http://mail.okiebenz.com/**mailman/listinfo/mercedes_**okiebenz.com
>>>
>>>  __**_
>> http://www.okiebenz.com
>> For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
>> To search list archives 
>> http://www.okiebenz.com/**archive/
>>
>> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>> http://mail.okiebenz.com/**mailman/listinfo/mercedes_**okiebenz.com
>>
>
>
> __**_
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> To search list archives 
> http://www.okiebenz.com/**archive/
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://mail.okiebenz.com/**mailman/listinfo/mercedes_**okiebenz.com
>
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[MBZ] Oh Mr. Q!

[Dieselhead]

Do you carry turbo cartridges?  or just the rebuilt exchange turbo?

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[MBZ] 603 turbo WAS:smokin SDL

[Dieselhead]

Does anyone know what turbo is on an 87 SDL?  Garret or KKK?

It looks like some things are accessible from above, and some from 
below.  What is the best method for getting the turbo out?






I think I am on to something.  With the crossover off, the insides 
are abnormally clean.  Like a complete M1 wash.  No gunk, no black, 
except where oil has pooled a little.


Started up the engine.  when I revved up the engine enough so that 
the turbo started, and held it there, there was oil climbing up the 
throat of the turbo and running counterclockwise to the high side of 
the throat.  if I ran the RPM up to 3k or so, then the air blew away 
the oil.


It is not enough to get a bath.  I am suspecting that what I am 
seeing is enough to wash the crossover/intake clean, smoke, 
especially on startup, and washdown the port side of the engine 
through the crossover pipe not being sealed well.


My guess is that any visible oil is too much oil.  Is this correct?

The turbo seal failures I have heard of have been catastrophic.  This 
is not.  But I suppose it could go catastrophic at any time.


Any body got a cheap source for a turbo cartridge?  Les Blumner had a 
source that was something like $80.  I have seen $250.







Got the SDL jacked up today to look for leaks.  Compressor side of 
Turbo is all wet with oil.  It is NOT washed clean from the oil.  The 
drain pipe is not oily.  the top mount of the drain pipe is wet, and 
it looks like from above.  The bottom mount is also wet, but no signs 
of a major leak.  the vacuum pod that controls the wastegate is 
coated with dirt and oil, but nothing fresh.  I could not find the 
pressure line that feeds the turbo.  Where do you see it?


Left side of engine is wet and oily all over.  I knew the shutoff 
oring on the IP is bad, had ordered replacements from Q last week. 
no signs of oil leaking out from the head to block seam.  No oil 
leaks apparent from IP to block.  That oring was new last summer. 
Even the shutoff on top of the IP is wet with oil.  Oil all over the 
IP, the fuel heater, left motor mount, the head, and the side of the 
block.  Left side of the oil pan is washed clean from oil.  Bottom of 
oil pan is coated and dripping oil.


When I looked where the car has been parked, the oil is pretty much 
centered under the car.  Like dripping off the oil pan.  Front seal 
shows no sign of excessive leakage.


What is up with this?  how does oil get all over the side of the 
engine with no sign of  valve cover leaking?


here is my new theory:  if the turbo is leaking AND the crossover 
pipe to intake manifold is leaking out the bottom, then an oil spray 
could be blown all over the engine when the turbo is spooled up. 
That could account for the head being wet with oil on the left side, 
but the valve cover does not leak.  Would account for smokin and 
leaking.  It would also account for oil all over the compressor side 
of the turbo:  Oil in the crossover and the feed pipe drains down and 
pools in the compressor, with seepage out the air intake hose fitting 
to the turbo.



I am off to remove the crossover and start it up and see if an oil 
shower results.


Subject is 87 SDL OM603.

I had the 126 CD on this computer before the HD died.  It is gone 
now.  Ceerap.  I left the cds at home.






Could be a bad turbo, which will cause all the problems other than 
the oil drip (unless the drain tube is bad too).  I've had this 
happen in my old Volvo -- an amazing amount of coked oil in the 
exhaust.  Leaking turbo seals can put quite a bit of oil into the 
intake -- I'm thinking mine is shot due to excess oil consumption 
and lousy performance at light throttle, same as the Volvo when the 
turbo quit on it.


One thing to check for -- does it clank too?  If so, bent #1 rod 
because you didn't replace the head gasket before #1 cylinder filled 
up with oil on an intake stroke from a failed head gasket there.


Peter


On Mar 4, 2012, at 2:02 PM, dave walton wrote:


I'll second that. Leak is probably in the front of the engine. Oil is
being blown back to where it collects and drips. I've found UV dye and
a UV LED flashlight to help in finding the source.

I've only had one leaking turbo. It was leaking into the intake. If
you remove the crossover tube and stand in the right place on the
drivers side while you rev the engine, you will get a nice oil bath
:-)

Wash, rinse, and repeat 3 times to get dirty M1 out of your hair. My
wife said she could still smell it for a week.

-Dave Walton


On Sun, Mar 4, 2012 at 1:57 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin  wrote:

Blown head gasket

Sent from my iPhone

On Mar 4, 2012, at 10:49 AM, Dieselhead <126die...@gmail.com> wrote:

Daughter reports that the SDL is consuming oil rapidly, and oil 
is dripping on the passenger side near the rear of the engine.  
The engine is also smoking more than normal.


Turbo seals?
Turbo drain seals?

anything else that could be causing oil drips and oil into the cylinders?

Subject is 1987 300SD

Re: [MBZ] smokin SDL

[Dieselhead]

I think I am on to something.  With the crossover off, the insides 
are abnormally clean.  Like a complete M1 wash.  No gunk, no black, 
except where oil has pooled a little.


Started up the engine.  when I revved up the engine enough so that 
the turbo started, and held it there, there was oil climbing up the 
throat of the turbo and running counterclockwise to the high side of 
the throat.  if I ran the RPM up to 3k or so, then the air blew away 
the oil.


It is not enough to get a bath.  I am suspecting that what I am 
seeing is enough to wash the crossover/intake clean, smoke, 
especially on startup, and washdown the port side of the engine 
through the crossover pipe not being sealed well.


My guess is that any visible oil is too much oil.  Is this correct?

The turbo seal failures I have heard of have been catastrophic.  This 
is not.  But I suppose it could go catastrophic at any time.


Any body got a cheap source for a turbo cartridge?  Les Blumner had a 
source that was something like $80.  I have seen $250.







Got the SDL jacked up today to look for leaks.  Compressor side of 
Turbo is all wet with oil.  It is NOT washed clean from the oil.  The 
drain pipe is not oily.  the top mount of the drain pipe is wet, and 
it looks like from above.  The bottom mount is also wet, but no signs 
of a major leak.  the vacuum pod that controls the wastegate is 
coated with dirt and oil, but nothing fresh.  I could not find the 
pressure line that feeds the turbo.  Where do you see it?


Left side of engine is wet and oily all over.  I knew the shutoff 
oring on the IP is bad, had ordered replacements from Q last week. 
no signs of oil leaking out from the head to block seam.  No oil 
leaks apparent from IP to block.  That oring was new last summer. 
Even the shutoff on top of the IP is wet with oil.  Oil all over the 
IP, the fuel heater, left motor mount, the head, and the side of the 
block.  Left side of the oil pan is washed clean from oil.  Bottom of 
oil pan is coated and dripping oil.


When I looked where the car has been parked, the oil is pretty much 
centered under the car.  Like dripping off the oil pan.  Front seal 
shows no sign of excessive leakage.


What is up with this?  how does oil get all over the side of the 
engine with no sign of  valve cover leaking?


here is my new theory:  if the turbo is leaking AND the crossover 
pipe to intake manifold is leaking out the bottom, then an oil spray 
could be blown all over the engine when the turbo is spooled up. 
That could account for the head being wet with oil on the left side, 
but the valve cover does not leak.  Would account for smokin and 
leaking.  It would also account for oil all over the compressor side 
of the turbo:  Oil in the crossover and the feed pipe drains down and 
pools in the compressor, with seepage out the air intake hose fitting 
to the turbo.



I am off to remove the crossover and start it up and see if an oil 
shower results.


Subject is 87 SDL OM603.

I had the 126 CD on this computer before the HD died.  It is gone 
now.  Ceerap.  I left the cds at home.






Could be a bad turbo, which will cause all the problems other than 
the oil drip (unless the drain tube is bad too).  I've had this 
happen in my old Volvo -- an amazing amount of coked oil in the 
exhaust.  Leaking turbo seals can put quite a bit of oil into the 
intake -- I'm thinking mine is shot due to excess oil consumption 
and lousy performance at light throttle, same as the Volvo when the 
turbo quit on it.


One thing to check for -- does it clank too?  If so, bent #1 rod 
because you didn't replace the head gasket before #1 cylinder filled 
up with oil on an intake stroke from a failed head gasket there.


Peter


On Mar 4, 2012, at 2:02 PM, dave walton wrote:


I'll second that. Leak is probably in the front of the engine. Oil is
being blown back to where it collects and drips. I've found UV dye and
a UV LED flashlight to help in finding the source.

I've only had one leaking turbo. It was leaking into the intake. If
you remove the crossover tube and stand in the right place on the
drivers side while you rev the engine, you will get a nice oil bath
:-)

Wash, rinse, and repeat 3 times to get dirty M1 out of your hair. My
wife said she could still smell it for a week.

-Dave Walton


On Sun, Mar 4, 2012 at 1:57 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin  wrote:

Blown head gasket

Sent from my iPhone

On Mar 4, 2012, at 10:49 AM, Dieselhead <126die...@gmail.com> wrote:

Daughter reports that the SDL is consuming oil rapidly, and oil 
is dripping on the passenger side near the rear of the engine.  
The engine is also smoking more than normal.


Turbo seals?
Turbo drain seals?

anything else that could be causing oil drips and oil into the cylinders?

Subject is 1987 300SDL

Thanks to all!


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Re: [MBZ] Adventures in W126 HVAC Repair - I Surrender

[Scott Ritchey]

" I stuck a block of 2x4"

I did that a couple years ago; installed it in the fall and removed in
spring.  But I had to remove pax and driver side under dash panels to
install (just pax side to remove).  I'm hoping for a fix that doesn't
require disassembly to open/close flaps.  But I may have to go back to the
block if this doesn't work.

I'm thinking a piece of mason's twine attached at the bottom front (away
from hinge) of pax side fed through a small metal loop near the front bottom
of the driver side flap  and exiting through a hole in the pax flap near the
hinge.  All this needs to be light weight or the hinges may bind so I'm
thinking about fashioning a U-shaped loop from coat hanger and shoe-gluing
into small holes drilled in the driver's flap and just a small hole and a
stopper knot to attach to the pax flap.  But I wonder if I'll need a metal
grommet at the exit hole to insure the string slides smoothly?

I'll leave the exiting string long until I see where it can be hooked (or
taped, or attached with a magnet) in the open and closed positions after all
the trim is reinstalled.

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com]
On Behalf Of Diesel Head
Sent: Friday, March 09, 2012 4:57 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Adventures in W126 HVAC Repair - I Surrender

I think I stuck a block of 2x4 maybe like 1 1/2 x 1 3/4 or 2" in there that
wedged in and held the flap open.  I never tried to take the blasted thing
apart.

On Wed, Mar 7, 2012 at 10:06 PM, Scott Ritchey  wrote:

> I'm finally over that #$%@ cold that sidelined me for about a month and
the
> day was warm, so I went back to work on my floor heat problem.  It was
> completely frustrating.
>
> I've given up fixing this @#$% thing.  It's so cramped in there I don't
see
> any way to even glue it without removing the entire heater assembly, which
> involves draining coolant and recovering R12. That's too much. I've
already
> removed everything but the dash and steering wheel and there's just no way
> to get at the broken parts, even just to glue them.  My back seat is full
> of
> center console, floor mats, dash under panels, HVAC ducts, etc. (hope I
can
> get it all back together).  My plan at this point is to rig up a string to
> manually hold the floor-heat flaps open in winter.  I'm thinking about
> anchoring it to the pax flap, running through an eye inside the
driver-side
> flap and then coming out a hole on the pax side flap.  Then I can just
pull
> on the string (and hook it to something) to open both flaps.  If the
> friction is low enough, they should still blow closed when the string is
> released.
>
> Thanks to all for your advice but that are is just too inaccessible to fix
> it right.  But I'm still open to new ideas
>
> -Original Message-
> From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com]
> On Behalf Of Scott Ritchey
> Sent: Wednesday, February 08, 2012 5:20 PM
> To: Mercedes Discussion List
> Subject: [MBZ] Adventures in W126 HVAC Repair
>
> For some years, the floor heat in my 1982 300SD hasn't worked.  Limited
> investigation showed that the floor heat flaps moved freely (as if no
> connection to any linkages) so the flaps simply "blew shut" when the
blower
> ran.
>
>
>
> We had a spell of warm weather (50s F) so I decided to attack the problem
> this week. Now the back seat is full of floor mats, center console, under
> dash panels, etc.  Here's what I discovered so far.  These flaps (one left
> and one right) have a splined shaft at the top and that's what broke. So
> the
> flaps need to be replaced.  The right flap cost is reasonable (like $40)
> but
> the left is outta sight (like $200).
>
>
>
> Here's an operating schematic:
> http://kittrellcommunitywatch.dyndns.org/HVAC/floor_heat_schematic
>
>
>
> Here's the general layout:
> http://kittrellcommunitywatch.dyndns.org/HVAC/heater_case
>
>
>
> Here's what the parts actually look like:
> http://kittrellcommunitywatch.dyndns.org/HVAC/parts
>
> Note the splines on top end of the flap shaft.  The black parts go on the
> left and the white parts on the right.  The white lever-gear snaps apart
> into the lever/gear (top) and a keeper that snaps in from below to lock it
> in place
>
>
>
> On the left flap, a lever arm slides onto the splines and "snaps into the
> heater case: http://kittrellcommunitywatch.dyndns.org/HVAC/left_flap_lever
>
>
>
>
>
> On the right side, a gear slides onto the splines and that gear mates with
> another gear with a lever similar to the left side.
> http://kittrellcommunitywatch.dyndns.org/HVAC/right_flap_gears
>
>
>
> The metal action bar that engages the ends of both of these levers such
> that
> when the bar moves left the left both flaps open.  The action bar has a 90
> degree arm pointing down and the vacuum element pulls the bar left under
> vacuum and moves it right via the element's return spring.
>
>
>
> So much for sharing what I've lea

Re: [MBZ] smokin SDL

[Dieselhead]

Got the SDL jacked up today to look for leaks.  Compressor side of 
Turbo is all wet with oil.  It is NOT washed clean from the oil.  The 
drain pipe is not oily.  the top mount of the drain pipe is wet, and 
it looks like from above.  The bottom mount is also wet, but no signs 
of a major leak.  the vacuum pod that controls the wastegate is 
coated with dirt and oil, but nothing fresh.  I could not find the 
pressure line that feeds the turbo.  Where do you see it?


Left side of engine is wet and oily all over.  I knew the shutoff 
oring on the IP is bad, had ordered replacements from Q last week. 
no signs of oil leaking out from the head to block seam.  No oil 
leaks apparent from IP to block.  That oring was new last summer. 
Even the shutoff on top of the IP is wet with oil.  Oil all over the 
IP, the fuel heater, left motor mount, the head, and the side of the 
block.  Left side of the oil pan is washed clean from oil.  Bottom of 
oil pan is coated and dripping oil.


When I looked where the car has been parked, the oil is pretty much 
centered under the car.  Like dripping off the oil pan.  Front seal 
shows no sign of excessive leakage.


What is up with this?  how does oil get all over the side of the 
engine with no sign of  valve cover leaking?


here is my new theory:  if the turbo is leaking AND the crossover 
pipe to intake manifold is leaking out the bottom, then an oil spray 
could be blown all over the engine when the turbo is spooled up. 
That could account for the head being wet with oil on the left side, 
but the valve cover does not leak.  Would account for smokin and 
leaking.  It would also account for oil all over the compressor side 
of the turbo:  Oil in the crossover and the feed pipe drains down and 
pools in the compressor, with seepage out the air intake hose fitting 
to the turbo.



I am off to remove the crossover and start it up and see if an oil 
shower results.


Subject is 87 SDL OM603.

I had the 126 CD on this computer before the HD died.  It is gone 
now.  Ceerap.  I left the cds at home.






Could be a bad turbo, which will cause all the problems other than 
the oil drip (unless the drain tube is bad too).  I've had this 
happen in my old Volvo -- an amazing amount of coked oil in the 
exhaust.  Leaking turbo seals can put quite a bit of oil into the 
intake -- I'm thinking mine is shot due to excess oil consumption 
and lousy performance at light throttle, same as the Volvo when the 
turbo quit on it.


One thing to check for -- does it clank too?  If so, bent #1 rod 
because you didn't replace the head gasket before #1 cylinder filled 
up with oil on an intake stroke from a failed head gasket there.


Peter


On Mar 4, 2012, at 2:02 PM, dave walton wrote:


I'll second that. Leak is probably in the front of the engine. Oil is
being blown back to where it collects and drips. I've found UV dye and
a UV LED flashlight to help in finding the source.

I've only had one leaking turbo. It was leaking into the intake. If
you remove the crossover tube and stand in the right place on the
drivers side while you rev the engine, you will get a nice oil bath
:-)

Wash, rinse, and repeat 3 times to get dirty M1 out of your hair. My
wife said she could still smell it for a week.

-Dave Walton


On Sun, Mar 4, 2012 at 1:57 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin  wrote:

Blown head gasket

Sent from my iPhone

On Mar 4, 2012, at 10:49 AM, Dieselhead <126die...@gmail.com> wrote:

Daughter reports that the SDL is consuming oil rapidly, and oil 
is dripping on the passenger side near the rear of the engine.  
The engine is also smoking more than normal.


Turbo seals?
Turbo drain seals?

anything else that could be causing oil drips and oil into the cylinders?

Subject is 1987 300SDL

Thanks to all!


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http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com


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For new and used parts

Re: [MBZ] OT Mac time machine

[Dieselhead]

Yes, I am only talking about stuff in the documents folder.  Music 
and photos I will just move manually.  nothing new there.  Is rsync a 
built in utility?  I did a search but did not find it.




Wouldn't it make the most sense to only copy your user directory files?  I
would be cautious against trying to copy OS files that way.  You can
probably rsync your user directory on Time Machine back to your new hard
drive.  Or better still, copy your user directory to a backup location,
then use Time Machine to restore your computer, and restore your user
directory using rsync from the the backup location.  That way you get
exactly what you had, plus any files you created.


On Sat, Mar 10, 2012 at 12:02 PM, Dan Penoff  wrote:


 Gotcha.

 You will have to pay for it, but it's money well spent:

 Super File Synchronizer.

 I use it to manage my backups between my machines and my Xserve RAID
 volumes.

 Highly configurable and can be scheduled. I highly recommend it.

 Dan


 Dieselhead <126die...@gmail.com> wrote:

 >The main thing is that I don't want to restore old files over the top
 >of new files and lose newer info.
 >
 >Hard drive died, the dealer put in a new drive, installed the OS and
 >whatever he could recover.  I was about 10 days before I could get to
 >my backed up files.  I was looking for a utility that would compare
 >the drive with the backup and give me a sort of what was not on the
 >drive.
 >
 >
 >>Not sure I totally understand what you are trying to accomplish, but
 >>why not just restore the files to the machine and copy them to your
 >>destination of choice using whatever means is necessary?
 >>
 >>Dan
 >>
 >>Dieselhead <126die...@gmail.com> wrote:
 >>
 >>>Is there a utility or synch tool that will compare files in a time
 >>>machine backup and restore the files from the time machine that are
 >>>not on the current laptop hard drive?
 >>>
 >>>
 >>>One other approach I could take is to isolate the files from the past
 >>>10 days or so, then do a full restore.  After the restore, move the
 >>  >isolated files to replace the older files from backup.
 >>  >
 >
 >___
 >http://www.okiebenz.com
 >For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
 >To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
 >
 >To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
 >http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
 ___
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 To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
 http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com


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Re: [MBZ] BMW motorcycles

[E M]

Some people feel that driving a bike down the autobahn at speed, in the
company of those who understand lane discipline and the importance of
keeping their eyes on their mirrors, rather than checking their messages on
their phone, is inappropriate material for eyes under the age of 18 to view.

Search the title in YouTube.  It should come up without having to sign in,
or up.  Maybe you have the settings on YouTube set to family filter or
something.  Even so, nothing inappropriate about the content, in my
opinion.

Ed
300E

On 10 March 2012 15:04, Craig  wrote:

> On Thu, 8 Mar 2012 23:12:06 -0600 Rick Knoble 
> wrote:
>
> > On Mar 8, 2012, at 10:08 PM, "E M"  wrote:
> >
> > > I tend to think of bikes like these, as
> > > being sport bikes.
> > >
> > > http://youtu.be/KqcdtsQpKrQ
> >
> > You can tell that's not the US. Drivers actually are getting out of the
> > way.
>
> So I finally get around to looking at this and get a page that says,
>
>  YAMAHA R1 Not too slow... 300km/h
>
>  This content may contain material flagged by YouTube's user
>  community that may be inappropriate for some users.
>
>  To view this video please verify you are 18 or older by signing in
>  or signing up.
>
> First off, "Huh?"
>
> Second, "No, I will not sign up."
>
> Third, how could a video of a motorcycle driving down a road be
> inappropriate?
>
>
> Craig
>
> ___
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Re: [MBZ] BMW motorcycles

[Scott Ritchey]

Well, mine was a TR75/5 with drum brakes. 

Good site for BMW data:  
http://www.bmbikes.co.uk/bmwmodels.htm

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com]
On Behalf Of E M
Sent: Friday, March 09, 2012 4:09 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] BMW motorcycles

Wasn't ABS first introduced on these early R75s ?

Ed
300E

On 9 March 2012 15:44, Scott Ritchey  wrote:

> I had an R75 back in the 70s and it was a fine machine, in its day.  My
> perspective is dated because I quit riding in 1981 (job and relocation
> reasons).  I'd be concerned about an air-cooled engine with that many
> miles;
> you might want a compression test, as a minimum.  It is a mechanically
> simple motor but the carbs can be tricky.  The shaft drive eliminated a
lot
> of maintenance and problems common to other bikes of that era.  But I
can't
> help but think there must be many newer and more advanced machines out
> there
> these days.  The opposed two was smooth compared to the vertical, hard
> mounted motors of the day but still rough compared to a water-cooled
Honda.
>
> Scott
>
> -Original Message-
> From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com]
> On Behalf Of Curt Raymond
> Sent: Thursday, March 08, 2012 7:07 PM
> To: Diesel List
> Subject: [MBZ] BMW motorcycles
>
> I know we've got some motorcycle heads on here...
>
> I'm thinking this is the year for me to get a different ride, right now
> we've got an '89 Kawasaki 454 LTD for the wife and an '82 Honda CB900f for
> me. She didn't ride at all last year and I only rode a little. Part of it
> is
> the Honda isn't really a highway bike and my commute is all highway. I'd
> ride a standard or sport/touring bike more. The Honda's forward lean is
too
> uncomfortable for my wrists long term.
>
> So I've started looking and found an '82 BMW R65 with only 70,000 miles.
My
> Honda has 45k, that kind of mileage doesn't scare me although it does some
> folks. I remember reading somewhere (here maybe) that some of the older
> BMWs
> were a handful because they were kind of primitive. I guess I need some
> guidance. I'm thinking to spend not more than $2000 which is more than
both
> bikes I have now combined.
> Remember I live in New England, our riding season is kind of compressed. I
> usually get the bikes out in May and we're done by October. Sometimes
> theres
> a run into November but not often so a big money bike ain't happening.
>
> -Curt
>
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Re: [MBZ] BMW motorcycles

[Craig]

On Thu, 8 Mar 2012 23:12:06 -0600 Rick Knoble 
wrote:

> On Mar 8, 2012, at 10:08 PM, "E M"  wrote:
> 
> > I tend to think of bikes like these, as
> > being sport bikes.
> > 
> > http://youtu.be/KqcdtsQpKrQ
>
> You can tell that's not the US. Drivers actually are getting out of the
> way.

So I finally get around to looking at this and get a page that says,

  YAMAHA R1 Not too slow... 300km/h

  This content may contain material flagged by YouTube's user
  community that may be inappropriate for some users.

  To view this video please verify you are 18 or older by signing in
  or signing up.

First off, "Huh?"

Second, "No, I will not sign up."

Third, how could a video of a motorcycle driving down a road be
inappropriate?


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] OT Mac time machine

[Brian Toscano]

Wouldn't it make the most sense to only copy your user directory files?  I
would be cautious against trying to copy OS files that way.  You can
probably rsync your user directory on Time Machine back to your new hard
drive.  Or better still, copy your user directory to a backup location,
then use Time Machine to restore your computer, and restore your user
directory using rsync from the the backup location.  That way you get
exactly what you had, plus any files you created.


On Sat, Mar 10, 2012 at 12:02 PM, Dan Penoff  wrote:

> Gotcha.
>
> You will have to pay for it, but it's money well spent:
>
> Super File Synchronizer.
>
> I use it to manage my backups between my machines and my Xserve RAID
> volumes.
>
> Highly configurable and can be scheduled. I highly recommend it.
>
> Dan
>
>
> Dieselhead <126die...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> >The main thing is that I don't want to restore old files over the top
> >of new files and lose newer info.
> >
> >Hard drive died, the dealer put in a new drive, installed the OS and
> >whatever he could recover.  I was about 10 days before I could get to
> >my backed up files.  I was looking for a utility that would compare
> >the drive with the backup and give me a sort of what was not on the
> >drive.
> >
> >
> >>Not sure I totally understand what you are trying to accomplish, but
> >>why not just restore the files to the machine and copy them to your
> >>destination of choice using whatever means is necessary?
> >>
> >>Dan
> >>
> >>Dieselhead <126die...@gmail.com> wrote:
> >>
> >>>Is there a utility or synch tool that will compare files in a time
> >>>machine backup and restore the files from the time machine that are
> >>>not on the current laptop hard drive?
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>One other approach I could take is to isolate the files from the past
> >>>10 days or so, then do a full restore.  After the restore, move the
> >>  >isolated files to replace the older files from backup.
> >>  >
> >
> >___
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> >
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Re: [MBZ] OT Mac time machine

[Dan Penoff]

Gotcha.

You will have to pay for it, but it's money well spent:

Super File Synchronizer.

I use it to manage my backups between my machines and my Xserve RAID volumes.

Highly configurable and can be scheduled. I highly recommend it.

Dan


Dieselhead <126die...@gmail.com> wrote:

>The main thing is that I don't want to restore old files over the top 
>of new files and lose newer info.
>
>Hard drive died, the dealer put in a new drive, installed the OS and 
>whatever he could recover.  I was about 10 days before I could get to 
>my backed up files.  I was looking for a utility that would compare 
>the drive with the backup and give me a sort of what was not on the 
>drive.
>
>
>>Not sure I totally understand what you are trying to accomplish, but 
>>why not just restore the files to the machine and copy them to your 
>>destination of choice using whatever means is necessary?
>>
>>Dan
>>
>>Dieselhead <126die...@gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>>>Is there a utility or synch tool that will compare files in a time
>>>machine backup and restore the files from the time machine that are
>>>not on the current laptop hard drive?
>>>
>>>
>>>One other approach I could take is to isolate the files from the past
>>>10 days or so, then do a full restore.  After the restore, move the
>>  >isolated files to replace the older files from backup.
>>  >
>
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Re: [MBZ] OT Mac time machine

[Dieselhead]

The main thing is that I don't want to restore old files over the top 
of new files and lose newer info.


Hard drive died, the dealer put in a new drive, installed the OS and 
whatever he could recover.  I was about 10 days before I could get to 
my backed up files.  I was looking for a utility that would compare 
the drive with the backup and give me a sort of what was not on the 
drive.



Not sure I totally understand what you are trying to accomplish, but 
why not just restore the files to the machine and copy them to your 
destination of choice using whatever means is necessary?


Dan

Dieselhead <126die...@gmail.com> wrote:


Is there a utility or synch tool that will compare files in a time
machine backup and restore the files from the time machine that are
not on the current laptop hard drive?


One other approach I could take is to isolate the files from the past
10 days or so, then do a full restore.  After the restore, move the

 >isolated files to replace the older files from backup.
 >


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[MBZ] Some Days It Just Don't Pay To Get Out Of Bed.....

[Dan Penoff]

Ever had one of those days where everything you touch turns to doo-doo?

Yesterday was one for me.

Network laser printer I have had for 6-7 years jammed. Something stuck in the 
fuser. Have to disassemble the printer (Konica Minolta 2450) to get to the 
fuser.

Get it back together. Fires up without an error. Go to print something and the 
paper stops halfway out of the fuser with a fuser paper jam error. Dammit.

Leave it for another day. Sigh.

iMac has had an OS update waiting  in the wings for a couple of weeks. I decide 
to run it. Because I have a modded machine, there is a 50-50 chance it will 
cack.

It does..

Time to go to bed before I can screw something else up.

Get up this morning, boot machine from target drive of laptop. Go to mount 
backup image from Drobo network drive. Disk Utility errors out. Oy.

Get disk image moved to server RAID from Drobo after a couple of tries. Disk is 
now being restored. Thank goodness. 
While one of the moves is taking place, I go to local Ace Hardware to buy a new 
propane tank for outdoor kitchen. Existing tank is 100 pound tank which has 
expired and gas supplier wants $250 to remove and replace WITHOUT filling. 
Jerks.

100 pound tank is 170 pounds filled, and must be transported upright after 
filling. Screw that. I buy a 40 pound tank and get it filled. Easy enough to 
move around and transport. Only used for an outdoor oven/range, so 40 pounds 
should still last a long time.

Had to redo the copper line and fitting. Found tubing cutter and more 
importantly, flaring tool. Took four tries before I got a clean flare. Been a 
long time since I used the thing.

Pressure tested, found leaks. Old pipe dope on regulator. Found bottle of pipe 
dope in paint cabinet. Got everything disassembled and put back together. No 
leaks.

Waiting for restore to finish. Looks like it's going to work.

Things appear too be getting progressively better. Might be safe to go try and 
fix the printer.

Dan
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Re: [MBZ] OT Mac time machine

[Dan Penoff]

Not sure I totally understand what you are trying to accomplish, but why not 
just restore the files to the machine and copy them to your destination of 
choice using whatever means is necessary?

Dan 

Dieselhead <126die...@gmail.com> wrote:

>Is there a utility or synch tool that will compare files in a time 
>machine backup and restore the files from the time machine that are 
>not on the current laptop hard drive?
>
>
>One other approach I could take is to isolate the files from the past 
>10 days or so, then do a full restore.  After the restore, move the 
>isolated files to replace the older files from backup.
>
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>
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[MBZ] OT Mac time machine

[Dieselhead]

Is there a utility or synch tool that will compare files in a time 
machine backup and restore the files from the time machine that are 
not on the current laptop hard drive?



One other approach I could take is to isolate the files from the past 
10 days or so, then do a full restore.  After the restore, move the 
isolated files to replace the older files from backup.


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Re: [MBZ] BMW motorcycles

[ernest breakfield]

the current 'Wings might have Reverse, but the ones in the original 
posters price range won't.
early 'wings were relative lightweights compared to the current 
models. as seems so common, they've gained weight and acquired a taste 
for luxury as they've progressed.


i had a nice early 1000cc 'wing many years ago. was a great bike 
for what it is, but bored me to tears. bought a BMW GS, and never looked 
back; sorta' a combination of all the things i was looking for in a 
motorcycle, with a seating position that i like. while not the best at 
anything, probably the best choice if you want to do some of everything.


early Airheads might have been relatively trouble-free compared to 
other bikes at the time, but they wouldn't necessarily be so by today's 
standards (all too often, neither would the Oilheads!), but they are 
infinitely simpler to work on. much like our MBZs, with minimal 
attention, the earlier stuff can be maintained almost indefinitely.



cheers!
e


On 09/Mar/12 06:11, Jim Cathey wrote:

Goldwing is for sure a good bike but its a HUGE bike.


The 'wings have reverse.  (Part of the starter motor system.)
That ought to tell you something.

-- Jim



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Re: [MBZ] China diesel

[Curt Raymond]

If I could find a deal like that I'd be all over it but the ones around here 
are all "smokes real bad" or "ran when I parked it"...

-Curt

Date: Fri, 09 Mar 2012 20:00:46 -0500
From: Mitch Haley 
To: Mercedes Discussion List 
Subject: Re: [MBZ] China diesel
Message-ID: <4f5aa7be.20...@voyager.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed

Curt Raymond wrote:
> Even tired as it is the Kohler K161 in my Cub Cadet will out pull any similar 
> engine made today. Its all cast iron, heavy bugger with a big flywheel and 
> the torque you'd expect from one.
> 
> I could replace it with a cheapo but I'd get cheapo results. At some point 
> this tractor may get a little front end loader so it needs to have real 
> tractor power.
> 
> A Cub Cadet 70 (mine is 1964) is NOT a lawnmower or even a lawn tractor. Its 
> a garden tractor which is to say its a Farmall scaled down and wants an 
> engine to match.

I once bought a 125 or 123 with a recent (about five years old) 12hp crate 
motor 
for something like $250. No grille, no mower or other accessories, busted seat, 
no clutch (found that out after I bought it, when I tried to put a deck on it, 
oops), but the engine was easily worth what I paid for the tractor, even if it 
was black instead of Cub Yellow.


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Re: [MBZ] Lubro Moly Valve Clean

[Tim C]

For $5 it's probably worth a shot.  Even if it doesn't solve anything, it
may make the car run better enough for your purposes.

Either way you may not know until next winter; I had a nice trip with the
kids to the ice rink last night, but it took some doing to convince them to
wear coats. :)

Best,
Tim
flying even further south today
On Mar 9, 2012 7:03 PM, "glenn brown"  wrote:

>
> Since I can't believe no dieseler on this list hasn't tried this stuff in
> their diesel, I thought maybe I'd attempt to post this query again assuming
> that it may have been overlooked.  Has anyone on the list used Lubro Moly
> Valve Clean in their W123 diesel?  Before replacing the injectors in #4 & 5
> cylinders, as these were the ones which showed low compression in a
> compression test which was an attempt to get to the cause of the serious
> smoking upon cold startup of my '85 300TD, I thought I might try this stuff
> first.  TIA
>
> G. M. Brown
> Brevard, NC
>
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Re: [MBZ] OT: what causes a fluorescent light to buzz

[Hans Neureiter]

Yes.

On Fri, Mar 9, 2012 at 10:41 PM, Allan Streib  wrote:

> Ballast transformer going out?
>
> Light in question is a standard tube-type (T8) light with ballast and
> starter, not a CFL.  Changing out the starter made no difference.
>
> Allan
> --
> Allan Streib
>
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-- 
Hans Neureiter, Katy, TX
'82 300SD
'01 VW New Beetle 1.9L TDI
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