[MBZ] Smoked any good Mexican pot lately?

[Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes]

1991 Mercedes Benz SEL 560
http://kansascity.craigslist.org/cto/6058628928.html

via cPro for Craigslist
iOS: http://tinyurl.com/cPro-iDevice
Android: http://tinyurl.com/CL-Android


Sent from my iPhone

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Re: [MBZ] Crack in a valve cover

[archer75--- via Mercedes]

I would clamp the break shut with JB Weld worked into it and then glue an 
aluminum patch over the break inside using 24 hour JB Weld (the strongest), and 
possibly add appropriately placed pop rivets to keep the patch from getting 
tangled up with the internals if the JB Weld should fail.
Be sure and work JB into the pop rivets to prevent any leaks there.
Sometimes a break in a relatively thin casting will distort the mating surface 
and some sort of form-a-gasket will be need if the gasket isn't new and soft. 
~~
> > Question is — Will it weld?
> 
> 
> Not well.  JB Weld, perhaps.
> 
> -- Jim
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-- 
arche...@embarqmail.com 

---
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Re: [MBZ] Crack in a valve cover

[G Mann via Mercedes]

It will not weld successfully,  Cast aluminum is very porous. The cracked
area will have "sucked in" oil vapors and absorbed it like a sponge. To
weld aluminum successfully, it must be contamination free, and clean and
bright. Aluminum when clean will oxidize almost instantly. Oxidation is a
weld contaminant in welding aluminum.

Also, to get good adheasion with JB Weld, the crack needs to be free of oil
residue left from vaporous pass through. Thus, my assessment would be, take
it back to PnP, point to the crack, and say, "I want another one, this one
is cracked and can't be fixed properly."

Finding one not cracked vs spending money and time trying to fix the
cracked one, would be my choice option.


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On Fri, Mar 24, 2017 at 7:35 PM, Max Dillon via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

> If it doesn't leak, don't mess with it!  Polish, install, enjoy.
> --
> Max Dillon
> Charleston SC
> '87 300TD
> '95 E300
>
> On March 24, 2017 7:56:42 PM EDT, clay via Mercedes 
> wrote:
> >I scrounged a valve cover from the 300D at PnP the other day.  OM617
> >engine and the thing looked ok enough to pick it, but there was the
> >standard coating of grime.  I washed it off and got some 000 steel wool
> >to buff it prior to going to town on a full shiny polishing.   There is
> >a crack, looks like a casting failure actually, on the front that goes
> >full across at the spot two thirds up where the vertical angles back to
> >the rounded top.  Crack is through and through, but shows no sign of
> >oil having seeped.
> >
> >Question is — Will it weld?  Do I need to worry about welding?  It is
> >probably a job I can swing with a torch and aluminum rod, but is it
> >really critical?
> >
> >
> >clay
> >
> >2002 s430 - Victor, a Stately & well tailored chap
> >1974 450sl -  Frosch - Two tone green
> >1986 SDL - Polei
> >1982 300 SD - Allen
> >
> >retired models-
> >1976 300D - Blei Vanst - it looks silvery
> >1972 220D - Gump - She was green, simple and ran
> >1995 E300D - Gave her life to save me against a Dame in a SUV
> >POS 1987 SDL - Beware Nigerian Scammers
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >___
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[MBZ] Cabriolet ignition lock fubar

[Max Dillon via Mercedes]

Today a VIN coded key arrived, it works just fine in the doors and trunk, but 
only partially turns the ignition. The new key turns the ignition further than 
any other MB key, so I think it's the right key.

Either the cylinder / lock is broken by the attempt to steal the car, or 
because the entire lock assembly has been broken nearly free of the steering 
column, the steering lock is preventing it from n turning.

Maybe tomorrow I'll have some time to explore further.
-- 
Max Dillon
Charleston SC
'87 300TD
'95 E300
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Re: [MBZ] Crack in a valve cover

[Max Dillon via Mercedes]

If it doesn't leak, don't mess with it!  Polish, install, enjoy.
-- 
Max Dillon
Charleston SC
'87 300TD
'95 E300

On March 24, 2017 7:56:42 PM EDT, clay via Mercedes  
wrote:
>I scrounged a valve cover from the 300D at PnP the other day.  OM617
>engine and the thing looked ok enough to pick it, but there was the
>standard coating of grime.  I washed it off and got some 000 steel wool
>to buff it prior to going to town on a full shiny polishing.   There is
>a crack, looks like a casting failure actually, on the front that goes
>full across at the spot two thirds up where the vertical angles back to
>the rounded top.  Crack is through and through, but shows no sign of
>oil having seeped.
>
>Question is — Will it weld?  Do I need to worry about welding?  It is
>probably a job I can swing with a torch and aluminum rod, but is it
>really critical?
>
>
>clay 
>
>2002 s430 - Victor, a Stately & well tailored chap
>1974 450sl -  Frosch - Two tone green
>1986 SDL - Polei
>1982 300 SD - Allen
>
>retired models-
>1976 300D - Blei Vanst - it looks silvery
>1972 220D - Gump - She was green, simple and ran
>1995 E300D - Gave her life to save me against a Dame in a SUV
>POS 1987 SDL - Beware Nigerian Scammers
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
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>
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Re: [MBZ] Crack in a valve cover

[Jim Cathey via Mercedes]

Goo on outside would be safer.  No way it could peel loose and drop into
the works.
"That would be Bad."

-- Jim
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Re: [MBZ] Crack in a valve cover

[clay via Mercedes]

Ok, sounds fair.  Both you and Jim seem to feel that JB weld should do the job. 
 I will scrub the inside and do the work there.  Polish it up on the outside so 
that I have a nice shiny cover when I do the valve adjustments next time on 
Allen.

clay


> On Mar 24, 2017, at 5:37 PM, Dan Penoff via Mercedes  
> wrote:
> 
> I know nothing about the welding part, but there’s really no pressure or 
> anything to deal with, so I would think that as long as you fill the crack 
> and it’s structurally sound, you should be good.
> 
> -D
> 
> 
>> On Mar 24, 2017, at 7:56 PM, clay via Mercedes  wrote:
>> 
>> I scrounged a valve cover from the 300D at PnP the other day.  OM617 engine 
>> and the thing looked ok enough to pick it, but there was the standard 
>> coating of grime.  I washed it off and got some 000 steel wool to buff it 
>> prior to going to town on a full shiny polishing.   There is a crack, looks 
>> like a casting failure actually, on the front that goes full across at the 
>> spot two thirds up where the vertical angles back to the rounded top.  Crack 
>> is through and through, but shows no sign of oil having seeped.
>> 
>> Question is — Will it weld?  Do I need to worry about welding?  It is 
>> probably a job I can swing with a torch and aluminum rod, but is it really 
>> critical?
>> 
>> 
>> clay 
>> 
>> 2002 s430 - Victor, a Stately & well tailored chap
>> 1974 450sl -  Frosch - Two tone green
>> 1986 SDL - Polei
>> 1982 300 SD - Allen
>> 
>> retired models-
>> 1976 300D - Blei Vanst - it looks silvery
>> 1972 220D - Gump - She was green, simple and ran
>> 1995 E300D - Gave her life to save me against a Dame in a SUV
>> POS 1987 SDL - Beware Nigerian Scammers
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> http://www.okiebenz.com
>> 
>> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
>> 
>> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>> 
> 
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Re: [MBZ] Crack in a valve cover

[Curley McLain via Mercedes]

Seems like a good place to apply epoxy, or as previously mentioned, JB weld.


clay via Mercedes 
March 24, 2017 at 6:56 PM
I scrounged a valve cover from the 300D at PnP the other day. OM617 
engine and the thing looked ok enough to pick it, but there was the 
standard coating of grime. I washed it off and got some 000 steel wool 
to buff it prior to going to town on a full shiny polishing. There is 
a crack, looks like a casting failure actually, on the front that goes 
full across at the spot two thirds up where the vertical angles back 
to the rounded top. Crack is through and through, but shows no sign of 
oil having seeped.


Question is — Will it weld? Do I need to worry about welding? It is 
probably a job I can swing with a torch and aluminum rod, but is it 
really critical?



clay


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Re: [MBZ] Crack in a valve cover

[Dan Penoff via Mercedes]

I know nothing about the welding part, but there’s really no pressure or 
anything to deal with, so I would think that as long as you fill the crack and 
it’s structurally sound, you should be good.

-D


> On Mar 24, 2017, at 7:56 PM, clay via Mercedes  wrote:
> 
> I scrounged a valve cover from the 300D at PnP the other day.  OM617 engine 
> and the thing looked ok enough to pick it, but there was the standard coating 
> of grime.  I washed it off and got some 000 steel wool to buff it prior to 
> going to town on a full shiny polishing.   There is a crack, looks like a 
> casting failure actually, on the front that goes full across at the spot two 
> thirds up where the vertical angles back to the rounded top.  Crack is 
> through and through, but shows no sign of oil having seeped.
> 
> Question is — Will it weld?  Do I need to worry about welding?  It is 
> probably a job I can swing with a torch and aluminum rod, but is it really 
> critical?
> 
> 
> clay 
> 
> 2002 s430 - Victor, a Stately & well tailored chap
> 1974 450sl -  Frosch - Two tone green
> 1986 SDL - Polei
> 1982 300 SD - Allen
> 
> retired models-
> 1976 300D - Blei Vanst - it looks silvery
> 1972 220D - Gump - She was green, simple and ran
> 1995 E300D - Gave her life to save me against a Dame in a SUV
> POS 1987 SDL - Beware Nigerian Scammers
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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Re: [MBZ] Crack in a valve cover

[Jim Cathey via Mercedes]

>
> Question is — Will it weld?


Not well.  JB Weld, perhaps.

-- Jim
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[MBZ] Tomorrow's Fun

[Dan Penoff via Mercedes]

Probably going to take a look at that pressure relief valve/spring on the 300D. 
 Got a steering stabilizer to put on the 350SDL, will probably replace the 
crappy aftermarket clamps on the hose repair, too.  I noticed it’s seeping on 
one side.  Gotta pop the hard top off the SL500 and check the microswitches on 
the top locks, as the top alarm is going off occasionally.  They’re really 
tight tolerance-wise, so they can be just a couple thousands out of adjustment 
and when you hit a bump the top controller thinks the top is open.

Still gotta replace that threshold in the garage, too.  Ugh.

-D


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Re: [MBZ] 300SEL - Friday Fun! - Done!

[Dan Penoff via Mercedes]

Got to Ace, found the exact bolt I needed in grade 8, got it installed.

Backed the car out of the garage and parked it.  Tomorrow I’m driving it over 
to Costco for its first fill up.  The numbers will suck due to all the idle 
time it had, changing out fuel filter, and the day of driving with the paper 
towel in the inlet of the fuel distributor.  I have a little over 200 miles on 
the trip odometer from my initial fill up when I bought the car, so I’ll 
probably see something like 10 mpg on this tank…

-D


> On Mar 24, 2017, at 4:53 PM, Dan Penoff via Mercedes  
> wrote:
> 
> Everything is back together with one exception - I have one exhaust header 
> bolt that’s stretched and looking poorly.  I have everything back together 
> and ready to go but that.  As soon as the spouse rolls up I’ll head over to 
> Ace to get a replacement and I’ll be done.
> 
> Used my vice and the old bearing to press the new one into the new bearing 
> carrier.  Used a flat bladed screwdriver and a rubber mallet to tap the new 
> bearing into place by positioning the blade on the edge of the inner race and 
> tapping it carefully, alternating at 180 degree positions.  Took a minute or 
> two, but the bearing went one without a problem and seated nicely.  Got the 
> new flex disc in without an issue.  Notice they (MB) supplies a couple of 
> sets of different length bolts, so you have to pay attention to the ones you 
> took out.
> 
> With the help of the floor jack I got the exhaust back in place without 
> nearly as much effort as I expected.  Got three of the four bolts in the 
> headers, waiting for the replacement bolt shortly as described.
> 
> Then it’s the moment of truth - test drive!
> 
> -D
> 
> 
>> On Mar 24, 2017, at 1:33 PM, Dan Penoff via Mercedes  
>> wrote:
>> 
>> Lunch time….
>> 
>> Got the front flex disc out, the front driveshaft section, and the center 
>> bearing and carrier removed from the rear driveshaft.
>> 
>> Center bearing had a tiny little bit of axial play, but wasn’t rough.  
>> Bearing carrier was weird.  You can see the picture I linked to of it below. 
>>  I’m hoping I’ve got something to drive the new bearing into place with, 
>> like a short piece of pipe or something.  If not everything will come to a 
>> halt until spousal unit gets home, as I can’t close the garage door and none 
>> of the boys are around to keep tabs on the house while I’m gone.
>> 
>> I’m going to enjoy some left over pork fried rice with Kitty and head back 
>> out to start reassembling. My only concern at this point is being able to 
>> manhandle the exhaust system back into place.  That’s not going to be fun, I 
>> suspect.
>> 
>> Parts as removed from car:  
>> https://www.dropbox.com/s/8lprq72sk90r6m1/IMG_1405.jpg?dl=0
>> 
>> Crack in flex disc:  
>> https://www.dropbox.com/s/xzrt2rocrl6/IMG_1406.jpg?dl=0
>> 
>> Strange bearing carrier:  
>> https://www.dropbox.com/s/vu61yf1adja39n7/IMG_1408.jpg?dl=0
>> 
>> -D
>> 
> 
> 
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[MBZ] Crack in a valve cover

[clay via Mercedes]

I scrounged a valve cover from the 300D at PnP the other day.  OM617 engine and 
the thing looked ok enough to pick it, but there was the standard coating of 
grime.  I washed it off and got some 000 steel wool to buff it prior to going 
to town on a full shiny polishing.   There is a crack, looks like a casting 
failure actually, on the front that goes full across at the spot two thirds up 
where the vertical angles back to the rounded top.  Crack is through and 
through, but shows no sign of oil having seeped.

Question is — Will it weld?  Do I need to worry about welding?  It is probably 
a job I can swing with a torch and aluminum rod, but is it really critical?


clay 

2002 s430 - Victor, a Stately & well tailored chap
1974 450sl -  Frosch - Two tone green
1986 SDL - Polei
1982 300 SD - Allen

retired models-
1976 300D - Blei Vanst - it looks silvery
1972 220D - Gump - She was green, simple and ran
1995 E300D - Gave her life to save me against a Dame in a SUV
POS 1987 SDL - Beware Nigerian Scammers








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Re: [MBZ] 300sdl thoughts

[Dan Penoff via Mercedes]

http://www.klimakit.com/product/parallel-flow-condenser-upgrade-kit-w126/

Only guys I know that sell them.  Nice guys, will ask you to send a picture of 
the fittings on your stock condenser to verify fitment.

-D

> On Mar 24, 2017, at 5:06 PM, Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes 
>  wrote:
> 
> Do you know of anybody that sells them?
> 
> Sent from my iPhone


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Re: [MBZ] Say Happy Birthday

[M. Mitchell Marmel via Mercedes]

Older than the hills! ;-)

On Fri, Mar 24, 2017 at 4:09 PM, Curley McLain via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

> To MMM
>
> Happy Birthday MMM!
>
> Almost as old as Luther?
>
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[MBZ] Say Happy Birthday

[Curley McLain via Mercedes]

To MMM

Happy Birthday MMM!

Almost as old as Luther?

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Re: [MBZ] 300sdl thoughts

[Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes]

Do you know of anybody that sells them?

Sent from my iPhone

> On Mar 24, 2017, at 3:56 PM, Dan Penoff via Mercedes  
> wrote:
> 
> Go for it!  I’ve been toying with the idea myself to see if it really makes a 
> difference….
> 
> -D
> 
> 
>> On Mar 24, 2017, at 3:50 PM, Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> So the sdl is apart swapping out the radiator. I figured while I had it out 
>> I would go ahead and replace the ac compressor with a new one I have on hand 
>> because the clutch is noisy and it seems to be leaking. The o rings and 
>> drier arrived yesterday from importec but now I got to thinking since the 
>> system is apart what about replacing the condenser with an upgraded parallel 
>> flow one? Thoughts?
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> 
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>> 
> 
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Re: [MBZ] 300sdl thoughts

[Dan Penoff via Mercedes]

Go for it!  I’ve been toying with the idea myself to see if it really makes a 
difference….

-D

 
> On Mar 24, 2017, at 3:50 PM, Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes 
>  wrote:
> 
> So the sdl is apart swapping out the radiator. I figured while I had it out I 
> would go ahead and replace the ac compressor with a new one I have on hand 
> because the clutch is noisy and it seems to be leaking. The o rings and drier 
> arrived yesterday from importec but now I got to thinking since the system is 
> apart what about replacing the condenser with an upgraded parallel flow one? 
> Thoughts?
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
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Re: [MBZ] Happy Moose Day

[Randy Bennell via Mercedes]

Well, maybe so. You have to wonder if the calf slipped on the wet grass, 
or if it suddenly saw the streams of water from the sprinkler and was 
uncertain of what it was and managed to duck it. If so, it did a great 
job of sliding under the water without touching the sprinkler itself.


RB

On 24/03/2017 3:50 PM, M. Mitchell Marmel via Mercedes wrote:

"I MEANT to do that!"

On Fri, Mar 24, 2017 at 2:42 PM, clay via Mercedes 
wrote:


http://www.funnyism.com/i/epicfail/just-pretend-no-one-saw-2 <
http://www.funnyism.com/i/epicfail/just-pretend-no-one-saw-2>


My sister once bit a Mousse

clay
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Re: [MBZ] 300SEL - Friday Fun!

[Dan Penoff via Mercedes]

Everything is back together with one exception - I have one exhaust header bolt 
that’s stretched and looking poorly.  I have everything back together and ready 
to go but that.  As soon as the spouse rolls up I’ll head over to Ace to get a 
replacement and I’ll be done.

Used my vice and the old bearing to press the new one into the new bearing 
carrier.  Used a flat bladed screwdriver and a rubber mallet to tap the new 
bearing into place by positioning the blade on the edge of the inner race and 
tapping it carefully, alternating at 180 degree positions.  Took a minute or 
two, but the bearing went one without a problem and seated nicely.  Got the new 
flex disc in without an issue.  Notice they (MB) supplies a couple of sets of 
different length bolts, so you have to pay attention to the ones you took out.

With the help of the floor jack I got the exhaust back in place without nearly 
as much effort as I expected.  Got three of the four bolts in the headers, 
waiting for the replacement bolt shortly as described.

Then it’s the moment of truth - test drive!

-D


> On Mar 24, 2017, at 1:33 PM, Dan Penoff via Mercedes  
> wrote:
> 
> Lunch time….
> 
> Got the front flex disc out, the front driveshaft section, and the center 
> bearing and carrier removed from the rear driveshaft.
> 
> Center bearing had a tiny little bit of axial play, but wasn’t rough.  
> Bearing carrier was weird.  You can see the picture I linked to of it below.  
> I’m hoping I’ve got something to drive the new bearing into place with, like 
> a short piece of pipe or something.  If not everything will come to a halt 
> until spousal unit gets home, as I can’t close the garage door and none of 
> the boys are around to keep tabs on the house while I’m gone.
> 
> I’m going to enjoy some left over pork fried rice with Kitty and head back 
> out to start reassembling. My only concern at this point is being able to 
> manhandle the exhaust system back into place.  That’s not going to be fun, I 
> suspect.
> 
> Parts as removed from car:  
> https://www.dropbox.com/s/8lprq72sk90r6m1/IMG_1405.jpg?dl=0
> 
> Crack in flex disc:  
> https://www.dropbox.com/s/xzrt2rocrl6/IMG_1406.jpg?dl=0
> 
> Strange bearing carrier:  
> https://www.dropbox.com/s/vu61yf1adja39n7/IMG_1408.jpg?dl=0
> 
> -D
> 


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Re: [MBZ] Happy Moose Day

[M. Mitchell Marmel via Mercedes]

"I MEANT to do that!"

On Fri, Mar 24, 2017 at 2:42 PM, clay via Mercedes 
wrote:

> http://www.funnyism.com/i/epicfail/just-pretend-no-one-saw-2 <
> http://www.funnyism.com/i/epicfail/just-pretend-no-one-saw-2>
>
>
> My sister once bit a Mousse
>
> clay
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Re: [MBZ] Importec v fcp again

[Dan Penoff via Mercedes]

Yes, but I just bought two Stabilus steering stabilizers on closeout from FCP 
Euro for $18/each.  They have some really good closeout sales….

-D

> On Mar 24, 2017, at 12:52 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes 
>  wrote:
> 
> Did another dual order and importec arrived a day before fcp again. 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
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[MBZ] 300sdl thoughts

[Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes]

So the sdl is apart swapping out the radiator. I figured while I had it out I 
would go ahead and replace the ac compressor with a new one I have on hand 
because the clutch is noisy and it seems to be leaking. The o rings and drier 
arrived yesterday from importec but now I got to thinking since the system is 
apart what about replacing the condenser with an upgraded parallel flow one? 
Thoughts?

Sent from my iPhone

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[MBZ] Happy Moose Day

[clay via Mercedes]

http://www.funnyism.com/i/epicfail/just-pretend-no-one-saw-2 



My sister once bit a Mousse

clay
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Re: [MBZ] 300SEL - Friday Fun!

[Curley McLain via Mercedes]

Dan Penoff via Mercedes 
March 24, 2017 at 12:33 PM
Bearing carrier was weird. You can see the picture I linked to of it 
below.

Looks like a normal carrier with dead rubber.  needs to be replaced.


Parts as removed from car: 
https://www.dropbox.com/s/8lprq72sk90r6m1/IMG_1405.jpg?dl=0


Crack in flex disc: 
https://www.dropbox.com/s/xzrt2rocrl6/IMG_1406.jpg?dl=0


Strange bearing carrier: 
https://www.dropbox.com/s/vu61yf1adja39n7/IMG_1408.jpg?dl=0


-D









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Floyd Thursby via Mercedes 
March 24, 2017 at 11:44 AM
On the SD I recall having to remove the rear trans crossmember and 
drop the back of the trans down to allow the driveshaft enough room to 
drop down, and maybe to get at the flex disk.  I can't remember 
exactly what I did there.  Were you going to replace the center 
bearing too (if it has one on the gasser)?


--R




Dan Penoff via Mercedes 
March 24, 2017 at 10:35 AM
So I decided to take today off and tackle the last (major) job on the 
300SEL - replacing a driveshaft center bearing and the front flex 
disc. I have not been looking forward to this as I know it’s going to 
be a lot of grunt work. but it’s got to be done…


Started around 10:00 this morning and I just got the exhaust 
disconnected. I still have to get into the cabin and disconnect the O2 
sensor cable, but once that’s done the whole exhaust system will come out.


I had a false start, thinking I might be able to separate the exhaust 
at the middle fitting behind the catalytic converter, but no joy 
there. Went to the exhaust manifolds, soaked everything in Kroil, then 
had at it. All I can say I that I really, really appreciate Mercedes’ 
use of high quality fasteners, as all but one of the exhaust manifold 
bolts came off without incident. The stubborn one had the captive nut 
break loose, but since those have a 14mm square shape I was able to et 
a wrench on the nut and hold it while I turned the bolt with a ratchet 
and long extension with a universal on it.


So in a few minutes I’ll disconnect the O2 sensor and get the big 
compressor and rattle gun out to take the heat shields out in a hurry. 
From there it’s wide open access to the driveshaft and flex disc. I’m 
hoping to be able to just drop the front of the drive shaft and do 
everything in place if I have room. That way I don’t have to 
disconnect the rear flex disc. If not, drive shaft at the rear flex 
disc will have to be disconnected.


More after the next break..

-D


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Re: [MBZ] 300SEL - Friday Fun!

[Curt Raymond via Mercedes]

I got really good at it with my '84 190D when the center section kept rusting 
out. Fortunately I could get the sections apart, its way easier if you can put 
it up in pieces. Remember not to tighten any piece until everything is in 
place...
-Curt

  From: Floyd Thursby via Mercedes 
 To: mercedes@okiebenz.com 
Cc: Floyd Thursby 
 Sent: Friday, March 24, 2017 2:12 PM
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] 300SEL - Friday Fun!
   
Yeah, that is best done with 2 or 3 people, but if you get some boxes or 
crates or something to kinda hold it up almost in place then it is 
easier to wrestle it into final position and to get the donuts put on.

--FT


On 3/24/17 1:33 PM, Dan Penoff via Mercedes wrote:
> My only concern at this point is being able to manhandle the exhaust system 
> back into place.  That’s not going to be fun, I suspect.

-- 
--FT
Winston Churchill:
“Never give in--never, never, never, never, in nothing great or small, large or 
petty,
never give in except to convictions of honor and good sense.
Never yield to force; never yield to the apparently overwhelming might of the 
enemy.”


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Re: [MBZ] 1987 6.2 Diesel GMC Suburban ONLY 3 owners $2800

[Curley McLain via Mercedes]

yeah,

I recently pulled 8000 lb of concrete and a trailer with the gran 
caravat.  very slow and long spacing.  I did it but don't recommend it.


I've also had the quarry dump 4-5 tons on a 1 1/2 ton truck and made the 
trip.


I don't recommend either.  It is MUCH more pleasant to have a load that 
is under the rated capacity.


If I had a pickup, I'd rather have a 1 ton flatbed or multiuse (yuro style)

If I was pulling a 40-50' equip trailer, a real truck is much safer than 
a peekup to pull the thing.





fmiser wrote:



You are re-enforcing my argument - Thanks!

I have done stupid things too. *smiles*   And so far, survived
them all.



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Re: [MBZ] 300SEL - Friday Fun!

[Floyd Thursby via Mercedes]

Yeah, that is best done with 2 or 3 people, but if you get some boxes or 
crates or something to kinda hold it up almost in place then it is 
easier to wrestle it into final position and to get the donuts put on.


--FT


On 3/24/17 1:33 PM, Dan Penoff via Mercedes wrote:

My only concern at this point is being able to manhandle the exhaust system 
back into place.  That’s not going to be fun, I suspect.


--
--FT
Winston Churchill:
“Never give in--never, never, never, never, in nothing great or small, large or 
petty,
never give in except to convictions of honor and good sense.
Never yield to force; never yield to the apparently overwhelming might of the 
enemy.”


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Re: [MBZ] A dilema

[fmiser via Mercedes]

> clay wrote:

> Dilema.  Do I put them on fleabay and try to help some poor soul
> keep his old W126 from looking horrid, or should I just toss
> them in the scrap heap?

Let the market decide.  Take photos, be honest - and if someone is
desperate you can help 'em out.

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Re: [MBZ] 300SEL - Friday Fun!

[Dan Penoff via Mercedes]

Lunch time….

Got the front flex disc out, the front driveshaft section, and the center 
bearing and carrier removed from the rear driveshaft.

Center bearing had a tiny little bit of axial play, but wasn’t rough.  Bearing 
carrier was weird.  You can see the picture I linked to of it below.  I’m 
hoping I’ve got something to drive the new bearing into place with, like a 
short piece of pipe or something.  If not everything will come to a halt until 
spousal unit gets home, as I can’t close the garage door and none of the boys 
are around to keep tabs on the house while I’m gone.

I’m going to enjoy some left over pork fried rice with Kitty and head back out 
to start reassembling. My only concern at this point is being able to manhandle 
the exhaust system back into place.  That’s not going to be fun, I suspect.

Parts as removed from car:  
https://www.dropbox.com/s/8lprq72sk90r6m1/IMG_1405.jpg?dl=0

Crack in flex disc:  https://www.dropbox.com/s/xzrt2rocrl6/IMG_1406.jpg?dl=0

Strange bearing carrier:  
https://www.dropbox.com/s/vu61yf1adja39n7/IMG_1408.jpg?dl=0

-D







> On Mar 24, 2017, at 12:44 PM, Floyd Thursby via Mercedes 
>  wrote:
> 
> On the SD I recall having to remove the rear trans crossmember and drop the 
> back of the trans down to allow the driveshaft enough room to drop down, and 
> maybe to get at the flex disk.  I can't remember exactly what I did there.  
> Were you going to replace the center bearing too (if it has one on the 
> gasser)?
> 
> --R
> 
> 


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Re: [MBZ] 1987 6.2 Diesel GMC Suburban ONLY 3 owners $2800

[fmiser via Mercedes]

> > > Randy wrote:
> > >
> > > If you really need the 3/4 ton, then you must work it pretty
> > > hard.  

> > fmiser wrote:
> >
> > I do.  If I never hitched a trailer to it, my 1/2 ton would
> > just be enough - but it has the towing package and so has
> > heavier brakes and suspension.
> > 
> > As soon as the trailer is big enough to have more than one
> > axle, the heavy 3/4 ton is much better suited to the task. 

> Curt wrote:

> Heck I hauled a 2 axle trailer with a 4500# tractor 300 miles
> with a v8 Dakota! It was right on the limit of what that truck
> could safely handle.

You are re-enforcing my argument - Thanks!

I have done stupid things too. *smiles*   And so far, survived
them all.

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Re: [MBZ] 300SEL - Friday Fun!

[Floyd Thursby via Mercedes]

On the SD I recall having to remove the rear trans crossmember and drop 
the back of the trans down to allow the driveshaft enough room to drop 
down, and maybe to get at the flex disk.  I can't remember exactly what 
I did there.  Were you going to replace the center bearing too (if it 
has one on the gasser)?


--R


On 3/24/17 11:35 AM, Dan Penoff via Mercedes wrote:

So I decided to take today off and tackle the last (major) job on the 300SEL - 
replacing a driveshaft center bearing and the front flex disc.  I have not been 
looking forward to this as I know it’s going to be a lot of grunt work. but 
it’s got to be done…

Started around 10:00 this morning and I just got the exhaust disconnected.  I 
still have to get into the cabin and disconnect the O2 sensor cable, but once 
that’s done the whole exhaust system will come out.

I had a false start, thinking I might be able to separate the exhaust at the 
middle fitting behind the catalytic converter, but no joy there.  Went to the 
exhaust manifolds, soaked everything in Kroil, then had at it.  All I can say I 
that I really, really appreciate Mercedes’ use of high quality fasteners, as 
all but one of the exhaust manifold bolts came off without incident.  The 
stubborn one had the captive nut break loose, but since those have a 14mm 
square shape I was able to et a wrench on the nut and hold it while I turned 
the bolt with a ratchet and long extension with a universal on it.

So in a few minutes I’ll disconnect the O2 sensor and get the big compressor 
and rattle gun out to take the heat shields out in a hurry.  From there it’s 
wide open access to the driveshaft and flex disc.  I’m hoping to be able to 
just drop the front of the drive shaft and do everything in place if I have 
room.  That way I don’t have to disconnect the rear flex disc.  If not, drive 
shaft at the rear flex disc will have to be disconnected.

More after the next break..

-D


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--
--FT
Winston Churchill:
“Never give in--never, never, never, never, in nothing great or small, large or 
petty,
never give in except to convictions of honor and good sense.
Never yield to force; never yield to the apparently overwhelming might of the 
enemy.”


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[MBZ] Importec v fcp again

[Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes]

Did another dual order and importec arrived a day before fcp again. 

Sent from my iPhone

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[MBZ] 300SEL - Friday Fun!

[Dan Penoff via Mercedes]

So I decided to take today off and tackle the last (major) job on the 300SEL - 
replacing a driveshaft center bearing and the front flex disc.  I have not been 
looking forward to this as I know it’s going to be a lot of grunt work. but 
it’s got to be done…

Started around 10:00 this morning and I just got the exhaust disconnected.  I 
still have to get into the cabin and disconnect the O2 sensor cable, but once 
that’s done the whole exhaust system will come out.

I had a false start, thinking I might be able to separate the exhaust at the 
middle fitting behind the catalytic converter, but no joy there.  Went to the 
exhaust manifolds, soaked everything in Kroil, then had at it.  All I can say I 
that I really, really appreciate Mercedes’ use of high quality fasteners, as 
all but one of the exhaust manifold bolts came off without incident.  The 
stubborn one had the captive nut break loose, but since those have a 14mm 
square shape I was able to et a wrench on the nut and hold it while I turned 
the bolt with a ratchet and long extension with a universal on it.

So in a few minutes I’ll disconnect the O2 sensor and get the big compressor 
and rattle gun out to take the heat shields out in a hurry.  From there it’s 
wide open access to the driveshaft and flex disc.  I’m hoping to be able to 
just drop the front of the drive shaft and do everything in place if I have 
room.  That way I don’t have to disconnect the rear flex disc.  If not, drive 
shaft at the rear flex disc will have to be disconnected.

More after the next break..

-D


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Re: [MBZ] Kaleb needs this

[Curt Raymond via Mercedes]

I don't think I've ever seen a bay window with a bench seat. On the other hand 
I agree that most splitties had bench seats.
-Curt

  From: MG via Mercedes 
 To: Mercedes Discussion List  
Cc: trainpain2...@aol.com
 Sent: Friday, March 24, 2017 9:33 AM
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] Kaleb needs this
   
Our 64 and 67 all window vans both had the wall. The 70 had the 
gap to walk through. A girlfriend's 62 panel van with just the 
window in the rear hatch also had the wall. I think that in those 
early years the wall was standard. It is possible that after the 
redesign in 68 with the big front window that the walk through 
was made the standard at least over here but I don't know enough 
about the history of it all to say for sure. At the same time the 
roof vent system in the front was changed and the placement of 
the heater and vent control was moved to the dash which allowed 
the floor to be flat from front to back. Before that the heater 
control was in the center under the front of the bench seat.

Mountain Man via Mercedes wrote:
> Same front seat arrangement on my 74 transporter in Denver - we had a
> wall behind the front bench.  For a transporter, the wall behind front
> bench was a seemingly rare arrangement? - the BAT dealer-parts vehicle
> of course needs a wall behind the front bench, whereas most
> transporters I see have passage from front to back between front
> seats.  My 74 transporter was a wonderful vehicle to my memory.
> tin.tin
> 
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Re: [MBZ] Kaleb needs this

[MG via Mercedes]

Our 64 and 67 all window vans both had the wall. The 70 had the 
gap to walk through. A girlfriend's 62 panel van with just the 
window in the rear hatch also had the wall. I think that in those 
early years the wall was standard. It is possible that after the 
redesign in 68 with the big front window that the walk through 
was made the standard at least over here but I don't know enough 
about the history of it all to say for sure. At the same time the 
roof vent system in the front was changed and the placement of 
the heater and vent control was moved to the dash which allowed 
the floor to be flat from front to back. Before that the heater 
control was in the center under the front of the bench seat.


Mountain Man via Mercedes wrote:

Same front seat arrangement on my 74 transporter in Denver - we had a
wall behind the front bench.  For a transporter, the wall behind front
bench was a seemingly rare arrangement? - the BAT dealer-parts vehicle
of course needs a wall behind the front bench, whereas most
transporters I see have passage from front to back between front
seats.  My 74 transporter was a wonderful vehicle to my memory.
tin.tin

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