[MBZ] how to find missing email

[Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes]

I have my email setup as POP3 on my desktop, which removes copies 
from server once downloaded.  On my phone and laptop, its setup as 
imap.  So, any incoming email goes to my phone or laptop.  I then 
periodically download it on my desktop for storage, which then 
removes it from my phone and laptop.   It has been quite a while 
since I have downloaded it from the server, but the other day I 
started the process and there was a massive amount to download, 
about 10gb worth.  I guess I left it running and forgot about it 
and started noticing yesterday mail disappearing off of my phone. 
I then remembered I must have left the mail client continue 
downloading. No big deal, when I get home, they will be there. 
Wrong.  I have messages up to 4/30/2022, then nothing until around 
noon today.  There is literally a gap from April until now that I 
can't find.  They had to have downloaded off the server but where 
did they go?  When I log into the email client in cpanel, there is 
nothing there either but the account still shows to have 5+gb of 
space being used.  WTF?



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[MBZ] Save or part out?

[Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes]

Here is a selection of cars I am trying to decide if I should part 
out, or put back on the road.  You help me decide.  Here is a link 
with photos:


http://okiebenz.com/pics/parts%20cars/

1: First car is a 98 4 matic wagon, runs fine but needs throttle 
body replaced, has a clanking front cv shaft, needs interior put 
back together, 170k miles.


2: 99 E430, 220k miles, middle kid was driving and several times 
knocked lower radiator support back pushing it into fan, possibly 
has blown head gasket (not sure), been sitting a few years.


3: 00 4 matic wagon, 215k miles, rebuilt title, needs bumper and 
hood, front drive axle fell out or something, has a battery drain, 
runs great


4: 94 E420, 124k miles, was a very nice car but has been sitting 
in barn for about 6 years.  Needs bumper and RF fender.  Hit a 
ditch and was told the mounting point for control arm bent and 
would need to be cut out and replace.  Not sure if this is really 
accurate as I have not got under it and verified, wheel sure looks 
straight to me.


5. 01 4 matic wagon, 130k miles, needs hood, bumper, LF fender, LR 
door.  I have all the parts except the LR door, if 1st white wagon 
is parted out, it has a good door.  Has nice interior with heated 
seats, PO says front end just rebuilt, trans in limp mode due to 
oil in controller


6. 99 E320, flood car, water appears to have been just even with 
center console, I can't remember for sure but I do not think it 
cranks, radiator fan comes on when key is turned on and thats it. 
I wanted to try replacing modules under front seat and see if it 
starts, or clean out the harmonica connector maybe.  Only has 80k 
miles.



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[MBZ] Oh my gosh the same guy ruined 2 nice cars

[Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes]

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1979-Mercedes-Benz-300-Series/274088364680?hash=item3fd0f08a88:g:yzkAAOSw7SxdlN~H


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[MBZ] This car started out looking nice until I made it to the interior photos

[Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes]

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1977-Mercedes-Benz-300-Series/274088360603?hash=item3fd0f07a9b:g:uAEAAOSwBqpdxarg


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Re: [MBZ] Bosch Group 49R Batteries

[Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes]

Yea the group 49/H8 is what is used in must about all the cars. BTW it 
is also $119 at Walmart.  WM also has the AGM version for $149 in case 
anybody is interested.


On 11/5/2019 8:09 PM, ROGER HALE via Mercedes wrote:

Yes, they have a terrible website.  It said my local store didn't have this battery, but 
it did.  I just went to the search line on my browser in put in the line above.  One of 
the "deals" was for Pepboys.  I clicked the link and got the online special.  
It is a group 49 with the POS on the right.  It works in both my 116 and 123 cars.  
Anyway, if you need it, there it is.  It has a 3 year warranty, but I've always gotten 
between 5-8 years with these batteries in the 617 diesels.  A difference now and the 
older batteries is that you can no longer add water as there are no plugs to remove to 
add water.  So, maybe they won't last as long as the older version.
Best Wishes,
Roger
Roger Hale
Dinnerware Classics, Inc.
Monroe, Ga.
770-267-0850
www.dinnerwareclassics.com
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Re: [MBZ] 124/201 ball joint tool

[Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes]

I am tempted to tell them to pound sand.  Not only that, they have 
several other listings for the same item with the same shipping amount 
other than this listing that says 7 sold.


On 11/5/2019 8:00 PM, Dan Penoff via Mercedes wrote:

The auction says they’ve sold seven of them. How many of those do you think 
they screwed up the shipping costs on?

They’re screwing you, buddy.

-D



On Nov 5, 2019, at 8:53 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes 
 wrote:

So after I paid seller messages me saying they messed on up shipping and want 
an additional $33 so that puts it about $108.  I guess that is still a decent 
deal?  Maybe?

On 11/2/2019 9:00 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes wrote:

I ended up buying this just now:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/232069182735

On the other hand, if the inner bushings needs to be replaced it might be 
better off to just to replace the whole control arm.

On 11/2/2019 8:54 PM, Max Dillon via Mercedes wrote:

Saw-z-all, torch, various pullers, lots of strong language.
   Speaking of blue language, my daughter came up with "son of a mother-less 
banana" for a writing assignment. I thought that was clever.

Max Dillon
Charleston SC

Sat Nov 02 21:50:56 EDT 2019 Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes 
:

How did you get the bushings out?

On 11/2/2019 8:49 PM, Max Dillon via Mercedes wrote:


The big honking C clamp that weighs twenty pounds, their universal ball joint 
tool set. Use that to press in the two halves of the bushing, the hole at the 
end gives access so you can peen the sleeve outward.

Max Dillon
Charleston SC

Sat Nov 02 21:46:48 EDT 2019 Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes 
:


What HF tool did you use to do the bushings?

On 11/2/2019 7:23 PM, Meade Dillon via Mercedes wrote:



Here ya go, $1,100 Klann tool:
https://www.samstagsales.com/images/Klann_KL-0039-751.jpg

If you get it, I'd like to borrow it when you're done. :)

Here's the "proper" inner bushing tool, Sir Tools M0062, on this page for
$365.
https://www.samstagsales.com/mercedes.htm

I have done several sets of inner bushings with the HF tool and a ball peen
hammer to peen open the sleeve that holds the two halves together.

Do yourself a favor and get four of the eccentric bolts for adjusting the
inner control arms, they are probably rusted solid in the old joints and
you'll never get them to turn.
-
Max
Charleston SC


On Sat, Nov 2, 2019 at 5:41 PM Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:




I am getting ready to do ball joints on a 201. I have done a 124 before
using the HF tool and some sections of cast iron pipe connections for
adapters. With this setup I got it done on the 124 years ago but it was
a pain in the ass. I have located the pipe pieces I used but in the
move I have no idea where the HF ball joint tool went to. I figure this
would be a good time to just get the proper one. So, with that said,
what is the proper tool? Car has about 180K on it, should I just pull
the control arms and replace the bushings also? That requires another
special tool to press those in and out?


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Re: [MBZ] 124/201 ball joint tool

[Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes]

So after I paid seller messages me saying they messed on up shipping and 
want an additional $33 so that puts it about $108.  I guess that is 
still a decent deal?  Maybe?


On 11/2/2019 9:00 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes wrote:

I ended up buying this just now:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/232069182735

On the other hand, if the inner bushings needs to be replaced it might 
be better off to just to replace the whole control arm.


On 11/2/2019 8:54 PM, Max Dillon via Mercedes wrote:

Saw-z-all, torch, various pullers, lots of strong language.
  Speaking of blue language, my daughter came up with "son of a 
mother-less banana" for a writing assignment. I thought that was clever.


Max Dillon
Charleston SC

Sat Nov 02 21:50:56 EDT 2019 Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes 
:

How did you get the bushings out?

On 11/2/2019 8:49 PM, Max Dillon via Mercedes wrote:

The big honking C clamp that weighs twenty pounds, their universal 
ball joint tool set. Use that to press in the two halves of the 
bushing, the hole at the end gives access so you can peen the 
sleeve outward.


Max Dillon
Charleston SC

Sat Nov 02 21:46:48 EDT 2019 Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes 
:



What HF tool did you use to do the bushings?

On 11/2/2019 7:23 PM, Meade Dillon via Mercedes wrote:



Here ya go, $1,100 Klann tool:
https://www.samstagsales.com/images/Klann_KL-0039-751.jpg

If you get it, I'd like to borrow it when you're done. :)

Here's the "proper" inner bushing tool, Sir Tools M0062, on this 
page for

$365.
https://www.samstagsales.com/mercedes.htm

I have done several sets of inner bushings with the HF tool and a 
ball peen

hammer to peen open the sleeve that holds the two halves together.

Do yourself a favor and get four of the eccentric bolts for 
adjusting the
inner control arms, they are probably rusted solid in the old 
joints and

you'll never get them to turn.
-
Max
Charleston SC


On Sat, Nov 2, 2019 at 5:41 PM Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:



I am getting ready to do ball joints on a 201. I have done a 124 
before
using the HF tool and some sections of cast iron pipe 
connections for
adapters. With this setup I got it done on the 124 years ago but 
it was

a pain in the ass. I have located the pipe pieces I used but in the
move I have no idea where the HF ball joint tool went to. I 
figure this
would be a good time to just get the proper one. So, with that 
said,
what is the proper tool? Car has about 180K on it, should I just 
pull
the control arms and replace the bushings also? That requires 
another

special tool to press those in and out?


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Re: [MBZ] Bosch Group 49R Batteries

[Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes]

Their website really seems to suck.  I can't seem to find a battery by 
searching for it or by entering car information.


On 11/5/2019 6:06 PM, ROGER HALE via Mercedes wrote:

In case anyone needs this battery for an older diesel, Pepboys has a really 
good deal right now.  If you do a web search for this battery and select the 
Pepboys deal, you get the following:  Battery is $179 in store, but $159 on the 
web only.  Then you get a $40.00 instant discount, so it's only $119 plus tax.  
It comes with free installation and no core charge.  I took them my old core 
and picked up the battery this evening which I'll install myself.  So if you 
need this battery, hit the web now.
Good luck and save,
Roger
Roger Hale
Dinnerware Classics, Inc.
Monroe, Ga.
770-267-0850
www.dinnerwareclassics.com
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[MBZ] For when Poos moves into his new house

[Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes]

https://www.bestbuy.com/site/samsung-98-class-led-q900-series-4320p-smart-8k-uhd-tv-with-hdr/6352561.p?skuId=6352561


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Re: [MBZ] 124/201 ball joint tool

[Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes]

I ended up buying this just now:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/232069182735

On the other hand, if the inner bushings needs to be replaced it might 
be better off to just to replace the whole control arm.


On 11/2/2019 8:54 PM, Max Dillon via Mercedes wrote:

Saw-z-all, torch, various pullers, lots of strong language.
  
Speaking of blue language, my daughter came up with "son of a mother-less banana" for a writing assignment. I thought that was clever.


Max Dillon
Charleston SC

Sat Nov 02 21:50:56 EDT 2019 Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes 
:
  

How did you get the bushings out?

On 11/2/2019 8:49 PM, Max Dillon via Mercedes wrote:


The big honking C clamp that weighs twenty pounds, their universal ball joint 
tool set. Use that to press in the two halves of the bushing, the hole at the 
end gives access so you can peen the sleeve outward.

Max Dillon
Charleston SC

Sat Nov 02 21:46:48 EDT 2019 Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes 
:
  


What HF tool did you use to do the bushings?

On 11/2/2019 7:23 PM, Meade Dillon via Mercedes wrote:



Here ya go, $1,100 Klann tool:
https://www.samstagsales.com/images/Klann_KL-0039-751.jpg

If you get it, I'd like to borrow it when you're done. :)

Here's the "proper" inner bushing tool, Sir Tools M0062, on this page for
$365.
https://www.samstagsales.com/mercedes.htm

I have done several sets of inner bushings with the HF tool and a ball peen
hammer to peen open the sleeve that holds the two halves together.

Do yourself a favor and get four of the eccentric bolts for adjusting the
inner control arms, they are probably rusted solid in the old joints and
you'll never get them to turn.
-
Max
Charleston SC


On Sat, Nov 2, 2019 at 5:41 PM Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:




I am getting ready to do ball joints on a 201. I have done a 124 before
using the HF tool and some sections of cast iron pipe connections for
adapters. With this setup I got it done on the 124 years ago but it was
a pain in the ass. I have located the pipe pieces I used but in the
move I have no idea where the HF ball joint tool went to. I figure this
would be a good time to just get the proper one. So, with that said,
what is the proper tool? Car has about 180K on it, should I just pull
the control arms and replace the bushings also? That requires another
special tool to press those in and out?


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Re: [MBZ] 124/201 ball joint tool

[Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes]

Yes, it does.

I wonder if between these 2 kits there might be the proper adapters that 
will do 124/201


https://www.harborfreight.com/ball-joint-service-kit-for-2wd-and-4wd-vehicles-63279.html

https://www.harborfreight.com/14-piece-master-ball-joint-adapter-set-63725.html

On 11/2/2019 8:51 PM, Max Dillon via Mercedes wrote:

Yeah that looks decent. Does it extract and install the joint?

Max Dillon
Charleston SC

Sat Nov 02 21:49:26 EDT 2019 Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes 
:
  

Then there is this one

http://www.baumtools.com/shop/Mercedes-Benz/33-Front-Axle/B129-0343-LOWER-WISHBONE-SUPPORT-JOINT-RR-TOOL#.Xb4yBtZ7ldg

On 11/2/2019 7:31 PM, Meade Dillon via Mercedes wrote:


This looks a little more palatable.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/VW-T4-Mercedes-Benz-W201-W124-Ball-joint-Press-Extractor-Tool-Outil-Tool-/331988806824
-
Max
Charleston SC


On Sat, Nov 2, 2019 at 5:41 PM Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:



I am getting ready to do ball joints on a 201. I have done a 124 before
using the HF tool and some sections of cast iron pipe connections for
adapters. With this setup I got it done on the 124 years ago but it was
a pain in the ass. I have located the pipe pieces I used but in the
move I have no idea where the HF ball joint tool went to. I figure this
would be a good time to just get the proper one. So, with that said,
what is the proper tool? Car has about 180K on it, should I just pull
the control arms and replace the bushings also? That requires another
special tool to press those in and out?


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Re: [MBZ] 124/201 ball joint tool

[Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes]

How did you get the bushings out?

On 11/2/2019 8:49 PM, Max Dillon via Mercedes wrote:

The big honking C clamp that weighs twenty pounds, their universal ball joint 
tool set. Use that to press in the two halves of the bushing, the hole at the 
end gives access so you can peen the sleeve outward.

Max Dillon
Charleston SC

Sat Nov 02 21:46:48 EDT 2019 Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes 
:
  

What HF tool did you use to do the bushings?

On 11/2/2019 7:23 PM, Meade Dillon via Mercedes wrote:


Here ya go, $1,100 Klann tool:
https://www.samstagsales.com/images/Klann_KL-0039-751.jpg

If you get it, I'd like to borrow it when you're done. :)

Here's the "proper" inner bushing tool, Sir Tools M0062, on this page for
$365.
https://www.samstagsales.com/mercedes.htm

I have done several sets of inner bushings with the HF tool and a ball peen
hammer to peen open the sleeve that holds the two halves together.

Do yourself a favor and get four of the eccentric bolts for adjusting the
inner control arms, they are probably rusted solid in the old joints and
you'll never get them to turn.
-
Max
Charleston SC


On Sat, Nov 2, 2019 at 5:41 PM Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:



I am getting ready to do ball joints on a 201. I have done a 124 before
using the HF tool and some sections of cast iron pipe connections for
adapters. With this setup I got it done on the 124 years ago but it was
a pain in the ass. I have located the pipe pieces I used but in the
move I have no idea where the HF ball joint tool went to. I figure this
would be a good time to just get the proper one. So, with that said,
what is the proper tool? Car has about 180K on it, should I just pull
the control arms and replace the bushings also? That requires another
special tool to press those in and out?


--
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Re: [MBZ] 124/201 ball joint tool

[Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes]

Then there is this one

http://www.baumtools.com/shop/Mercedes-Benz/33-Front-Axle/B129-0343-LOWER-WISHBONE-SUPPORT-JOINT-RR-TOOL#.Xb4yBtZ7ldg

On 11/2/2019 7:31 PM, Meade Dillon via Mercedes wrote:

This looks a little more palatable.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/VW-T4-Mercedes-Benz-W201-W124-Ball-joint-Press-Extractor-Tool-Outil-Tool-/331988806824
-
Max
Charleston SC


On Sat, Nov 2, 2019 at 5:41 PM Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:


I am getting ready to do ball joints on a 201.  I have done a 124 before
using the HF tool and some sections of cast iron pipe connections for
adapters.  With this setup I got it done on the 124 years ago but it was
a pain in the ass.  I have located the pipe pieces I used but in the
move I have no idea where the HF ball joint tool went to.  I figure this
would be a good time to just get the proper one.  So, with that said,
what is the proper tool?  Car has about 180K on it, should I just pull
the control arms and replace the bushings also?  That requires another
special tool to press those in and out?


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Re: [MBZ] 124/201 ball joint tool

[Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes]

What HF tool did you use to do the bushings?

On 11/2/2019 7:23 PM, Meade Dillon via Mercedes wrote:

Here ya go, $1,100 Klann tool:
https://www.samstagsales.com/images/Klann_KL-0039-751.jpg

If you get it, I'd like to borrow it when you're done.  :)

Here's the "proper" inner bushing tool, Sir Tools M0062, on this page for
$365.
https://www.samstagsales.com/mercedes.htm

I have done several sets of inner bushings with the HF tool and a ball peen
hammer to peen open the sleeve that holds the two halves together.

Do yourself a favor and get four of the eccentric bolts for adjusting the
inner control arms, they are probably rusted solid in the old joints and
you'll never get them to turn.
-
Max
Charleston SC


On Sat, Nov 2, 2019 at 5:41 PM Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:


I am getting ready to do ball joints on a 201.  I have done a 124 before
using the HF tool and some sections of cast iron pipe connections for
adapters.  With this setup I got it done on the 124 years ago but it was
a pain in the ass.  I have located the pipe pieces I used but in the
move I have no idea where the HF ball joint tool went to.  I figure this
would be a good time to just get the proper one.  So, with that said,
what is the proper tool?  Car has about 180K on it, should I just pull
the control arms and replace the bushings also?  That requires another
special tool to press those in and out?


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[MBZ] 124/201 ball joint tool

[Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes]

I am getting ready to do ball joints on a 201.  I have done a 124 before 
using the HF tool and some sections of cast iron pipe connections for 
adapters.  With this setup I got it done on the 124 years ago but it was 
a pain in the ass.  I have located the pipe pieces I used but in the 
move I have no idea where the HF ball joint tool went to.  I figure this 
would be a good time to just get the proper one.  So, with that said, 
what is the proper tool?  Car has about 180K on it, should I just pull 
the control arms and replace the bushings also?  That requires another 
special tool to press those in and out?



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Re: [MBZ] Fuel tank sender repair

[Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes]

That is an interesting idea.

On 10/26/2019 4:25 PM, Mitch Haley via Mercedes wrote:

JB Weld it in place and restore the electrical connection with the copper paint 
they sell fir defroster grid repairs?

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Re: [MBZ] buying parts is starting to suck

[Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes]

I have found that any item that is MB genuine on FCP I can get cheaper 
from several of the online dealer parts sites.


On 10/20/2019 8:59 PM, Max Dillon via Mercedes wrote:

I found that the MB dealer in Daytona had lower prices than FCP and Peach Parts 
and Auto Haus, for small stuff like O-rings and fuel return line hose.

Max Dillon
Charleston SC

Sun Oct 20 21:51:07 EDT 2019 Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes 
:
  

So now that importec is out of business, I am stuck with either FCP Euro
or Autohauz AZ. FCP seems to not carry items I am looking for. Or only
carries genuine MB parts that cost a lot more than a cheaper alternative
for shift bushings for example. Autohaus carries the cheaper versions of
some parts that are not critical such as antenna seal, but other items
are a lot more expensive.


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[MBZ] buying parts is starting to suck

[Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes]

So now that importec is out of business, I am stuck with either FCP Euro 
or Autohauz AZ.  FCP seems to not carry items I am looking for.  Or only 
carries genuine MB parts that cost a lot more than a cheaper alternative 
for shift bushings for example. Autohaus carries the cheaper versions of 
some parts that are not critical such as antenna seal, but other items 
are a lot more expensive.



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Re: [MBZ] A W115 300D!

[Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes]

Might be worth it but something is off with the interior.  Seats and 
door panels are black and carpet is tan.  I bet it is supposed to have 
tan interior and the seats etc were swapped in.


On 10/20/2019 5:14 PM, Kevin Kraly via Mercedes wrote:

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/416618315901642/


Sent from my iPhone

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Re: [MBZ] degrease cooling system

[Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes]

Did you use power or gel?  I am going to have the wife pick something up 
while she is in town.


On 10/20/2019 11:39 AM, OK Don via Mercedes wrote:

Dishwashing and dishwasher detergents are not the same - one foams and the
other doesn't. I used Cascade several times in several OM6xx engines with
no bad effects.

On Sun, Oct 20, 2019 at 8:32 AM Peter Frederick via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:


Do not use detergent, it will take at least an eon to get it to quit
foaming (dishwashing detergents have foaming agents)

Daskade, plain washing soda, or something similar.  Finish with a citric
acid flush as noted, this will remove scale and rust as well.

Peter


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[MBZ] 201 evap temp sensor

[Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes]

This 190D I have been working on the AC compressor runs non stop and 
does not cycle like it should and freezes up the evaporator stopping air 
flow.  I tested the evap temp sensor and it tests bad.  I will probably 
check it again to make sure.  The sensor appears to be no longer 
available anywhere.  Does anybody have one laying around they want to 
part with?



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[MBZ] degrease cooling system

[Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes]

What is a good method to use to degrease a cooling system?  Dawn dish 
soap and run it for a while then flush it out?  Cascade powder?



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Re: [MBZ] OT - Interior Painting

[Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes]

I am sure it would be fine.  It has a lot of reviews on it and they 
appear to be good.


On 10/19/2019 10:02 AM, Dan Penoff via Mercedes wrote:

As it appears that I will soon be tasked with painting the interior of not one, 
but two homes (new and old) I was seriously considering buying a Harbor Fright 
airless bulk sprayer:

https://www.harborfreight.com/Airless-Paint-Sprayer-Kit-60600.html

I’ve used bulk sprayers before, both inside and outside a house, and really 
like the speed at which you can paint large areas. However, I’m not sure I want 
to go “all in” on this, either, as I’ll have plenty of time to do the work.

Anyone have any experience with the HF unit? As this will be pretty much unused 
after I’m done, I have to consider whether I want to drop serious coin and then 
sell whatever I buy, or go on the cheep and hope all goes well and I get my 
money out of it before it cacks.

-D



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Re: [MBZ] Cord Cutting

[Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes]

I might need to revisit this at some point.  Last time I looked there 
did not seem to be any that had DVR.  I also only have a 12mbs 
connection here which normally runs about half that speed or even down 
to 1-2 when everyone in the house is streaming and gaming.


On 10/13/2019 11:59 AM, Dan Penoff via Mercedes wrote:

That’s one of the reasons we went with YouTube TV. Unlimited DVR and 
scheduling, so you can program it for a series or shows, it vacuums them up and 
you can watch them when you have time. Not all of the streaming services have 
DVR capabilities.

We also looked at Philo, which has all of the “lifestyle” channels, many of 
which she likes to watch. It’s only $20/month and also has DVR capabilities, 
too.

-D



On Oct 13, 2019, at 12:55 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes 
 wrote:

I think they all probably do it.  I have been with Dish for nearly 20 years 
straight and I am quite sure new customers get it cheaper than I do.  I have 
thought about switching back and for the between direct and dish every couple 
of years but have not bothered.  If these streaming services got DVR figured 
out a little better like dish I might cut the cord.  I have found by the time I 
add up everything I would want it is not that much cheaper than what I am 
paying now and everything is pretty much turn key with their receivers.

On 10/13/2019 11:43 AM, Mitch Haley via Mercedes wrote:

Does Direct pull the "first year cheap with two year contract" trick, or is 
that Dish?


On October 13, 2019 at 12:10 PM Buggered Benzmail via Mercedes 
 wrote:


My cousin went through that recently with Directv. She had some issues before 
and they lowered her bill and got an $80 credit so she hasn’t been paying much. 
That’s all running out. She was gonna cancel it altogether but see what deal 
they pitched her to keep her as a customer. You might be able to strong arm 
them if you say you are going to another service.

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Re: [MBZ] Toyota Hilux?

[Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes]

if you found one would you be able to get parts for it? If its a Chevy 
truck you can pickup an engine rebuilt kit at the grocery store.


On 10/13/2019 11:56 AM, Dan Penoff via Mercedes wrote:

I don’t think there’s anything wrong with one, but the likelihood of finding 
one, even remotely decent, in North America is pretty slim. There are far 
better alternatives.

-D



On Oct 13, 2019, at 12:45 PM, Karl Wittnebel via Mercedes 
 wrote:

There is absolutely nothing wrong with a hilux, unless the bat fj40 crowd
has discovered them. Lightweight, simple, efficient, easily maintained,
durable. It was the unofficial vehicle for pretty much all the Bedouin in
Saudi in the 70s, except the bootleggers who drove GMC pickups with marine
454 motors.

On Sun, Oct 13, 2019, 12:32 PM Dan Penoff via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:


I know. I have informed both children that when the day comes that they
realize Mom and I were “right” that they need to immediately contact us in
order to allow us to revel in the satisfaction of being validated.

It will happen. It’s just a matter of when.

And yes, I attempted to point out that the HiLux was never sold here in
the same manner in which it is available in the rest of the world.

-D


On Oct 13, 2019, at 12:25 PM, Rick Knoble via Mercedes <

mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

Tell him "good luck with that". They are few and far between here in the

states. Try BaT.

When children get to be about 26-27 they say "gee dad, you sure got

smarter in the last couple years".

Hang in there dad, it will get better.

https://www.quora.com/Why-cant-I-own-a-Toyota-Hilux-in-America


Rick

From: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: October 13, 2019 7:59 AM
To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Reply-to: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Cc: d...@penoff.com
Subject: [MBZ] Toyota Hilux?

Youngest son believes he now wants a Toyota Hilux and has asked me to

put the word out. No more details than that, so I’m going with what I’ve
got.

Don’t ask me why, I don’t go there. If you see or know of one, drop me a

PM and I’ll pass it along.

-D
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Re: [MBZ] Cord Cutting

[Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes]

How will you DVR any of your shows?  Are you going to buy one for OTR or 
just watch things the old fashioned way in real time?


On 10/13/2019 11:53 AM, Dan Penoff via Mercedes wrote:

I’m wondering that myself. I’m not putting up a dish as I don’t want to mess 
with all the related crap that goes with it. That’s one of the great things 
about streaming services - you can get programming anywhere you have an 
Internet connection, hard wired or WiFi.

We’re lucky in that the antenna farm with nearly every OTA station in the area 
is only a couple of miles away as the crow flies. With the great coverage of 
OTA stations and YouTube TV we’re getting nearly everything we had with cable.

-D



On Oct 13, 2019, at 12:43 PM, Mitch Haley via Mercedes  
wrote:

Does Direct pull the "first year cheap with two year contract" trick, or is 
that Dish?


On October 13, 2019 at 12:10 PM Buggered Benzmail via Mercedes 
 wrote:


My cousin went through that recently with Directv. She had some issues before 
and they lowered her bill and got an $80 credit so she hasn’t been paying much. 
That’s all running out. She was gonna cancel it altogether but see what deal 
they pitched her to keep her as a customer. You might be able to strong arm 
them if you say you are going to another service.

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Re: [MBZ] I only drive it from\to Walmart just to keep it in shape

[Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes]

That car looks identical to my first car except mine was a 240D. If I 
could every find a 79 240D that is exactly like this I would be all over 
it assuming the price was not out of control.


On 10/13/2019 11:47 AM, Floyd Thursby via Mercedes wrote:

To buy my crack in the parking lot

https://charleston.craigslist.org/pts/d/summerville-1979-mercedes-benz-280e/6996687993.html 





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Re: [MBZ] Cord Cutting

[Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes]

I think they all probably do it.  I have been with Dish for nearly 20 
years straight and I am quite sure new customers get it cheaper than I 
do.  I have thought about switching back and for the between direct and 
dish every couple of years but have not bothered.  If these streaming 
services got DVR figured out a little better like dish I might cut the 
cord.  I have found by the time I add up everything I would want it is 
not that much cheaper than what I am paying now and everything is pretty 
much turn key with their receivers.


On 10/13/2019 11:43 AM, Mitch Haley via Mercedes wrote:

Does Direct pull the "first year cheap with two year contract" trick, or is 
that Dish?


On October 13, 2019 at 12:10 PM Buggered Benzmail via Mercedes 
 wrote:


My cousin went through that recently with Directv. She had some issues before 
and they lowered her bill and got an $80 credit so she hasn’t been paying much. 
That’s all running out. She was gonna cancel it altogether but see what deal 
they pitched her to keep her as a customer. You might be able to strong arm 
them if you say you are going to another service.

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[MBZ] 123 fakebook checkin

[Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes]

I see the supposed list expert is asking questions about what seems like 
a basic issue.  This is confusing because I thought this guy ran a shop 
working on MBs for a living.



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[MBZ] Nice 240D

[Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes]

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1981-Mercedes-Benz-200-Series/174061858236?hash=item2886e52dbc:g:WnMAAOSwOfZdoIiX


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[MBZ] 560SL project

[Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes]

https://www.copart.com/lot/41260459


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Re: [MBZ] SUCCESS!!!!!! IT'S ALIIIIIIIVVVVVEEEE!!!!

[Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes]

SDS wont work with the OBD port, must use the one in the fuse box.

On 10/9/2019 6:18 PM, Floyd Thursby via Mercedes wrote:
The $600E320 (now the $800E320) is ALIVE!  Checked the trans fluid 
this morning after starting it and running it a bit in neutral and 
running through the gears without moving, I thought it might need more 
but it was spot on with the 7.5qt I put in, so that was good.  Little 
while ago I hooked up the computer and after a bit of frustration got 
it to talk to all the nannies and give a report on all the modules and 
codes and faults and such (there were A LOT!).  Cleared them, there 
were still some that seem to be hard faults with some components or 
something so will deal with those, but the transmission codes cleared 
so that was encouraging.  Took it out for a quick spin and IT 
WORKS  Trans shifts smoothly and properly, all seems well.  Car 
runs well though it seems to have some howling and rumbling coming 
from the back end, might be tires or something, I'll have to check.  
It was sitting for awhile so maybe the tires have some flats spots or 
something.  Everything underneath looked good and clean though, but I 
will check again.


So $200 for conductor plate, new connector, and filter and fluid and 
various bits and the car is now ready to roll!  Will hit the DMV 
tomorrow or Friday and get plates then do some shakedown.  But it 
seems like a really nice car, clean and looks good.  I need a right 
driving light, for some reason it looks like it broke off and is 
missing.  Nothing else it seems.


And I got the fancy computer working!  Turns out it had the 38 pin 
connector up under the fuse panel cover, so maybe using that instead 
of the OBD port was the key.  I'll have to look on the ML and see and 
then get it hooked to that if it has one, maybe I can get it sorted 
easily without having to mess with it much.


So a good Benz day  YAY ME



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[MBZ] Nice 240D

[Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes]

Somewhat rare interior color in leather

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1983-Mercedes-Benz-200-Series-240D/274040952134?hash=item3fce1d1546:g:xc4AAOSwpJJdkoSD


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[MBZ] Green on green 450? too bad the interior is MIA

[Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes]

https://www.copart.com/lot/51577818


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Re: [MBZ] OT health insurance again

[Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes]

One thing I forgot to mention is the employer matches up to $2k HSA 
contribution.  I need to clarify but I assume that means if I put in at 
least $2000 per year they put in $2000 per year for a total of $4000 in 
the account per year.


On 9/29/2019 9:15 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes wrote:
I brought this up a while back comparing PPO to HDHP HSA plans. The 
consensus was if you use the plan very much the cost at the end of the 
day would end up being the same. It is now time for me to decide one 
way or the other so I decided to plug the numbers into a spreadsheet 
to see how they would come up.  On the spread sheet I basically 
calculated out what the cost per month would be based on premium, HSA 
contributions etc. I also included calculations based on premiums plus 
out of pocket max for the year.  That out of pocket max would be the 
number we would hit if we used the plan up to the max.


If my line of thinking is correct, the monthly cost in yellow would be 
what the costs would be if the plan was not used much and includes the 
premiums, deductible, and HSA contributions.  Blue would be premium 
plus out of pocket max.  This should include the deductible.  In that 
case, HSA2 comes out a little cheaper.


If I am looking at this correctly, if the plan is not used that much 
during a particular year, I get to basically bank most of the HSA 
contributions.  But, if it happens during a year the plan is used to 
the max, the cost does end up about the same with some savings over 
the PPO with the HSA plans.  The one difference that could make a 
difference is the PPO has an embedded deductible and the HSA is non 
embedded.  From what I understand is with the embedded if one person 
meets the individual deductible then the plan kicks in after that.  
Once the family amount is met then it kicks in for everyone.  With non 
embedded the family amount has to be met before the plan kicks is so 
it almost seems to me the individual amount is irrelevant. All my 
calculations were based on the family deductible and out of pocket max.




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[MBZ] OT health insurance again

[Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes]

I brought this up a while back comparing PPO to HDHP HSA plans. The 
consensus was if you use the plan very much the cost at the end of the 
day would end up being the same. It is now time for me to decide one way 
or the other so I decided to plug the numbers into a spreadsheet to see 
how they would come up.  On the spread sheet I basically calculated out 
what the cost per month would be based on premium, HSA contributions 
etc. I also included calculations based on premiums plus out of pocket 
max for the year.  That out of pocket max would be the number we would 
hit if we used the plan up to the max.


If my line of thinking is correct, the monthly cost in yellow would be 
what the costs would be if the plan was not used much and includes the 
premiums, deductible, and HSA contributions.  Blue would be premium plus 
out of pocket max.  This should include the deductible.  In that case, 
HSA2 comes out a little cheaper.


If I am looking at this correctly, if the plan is not used that much 
during a particular year, I get to basically bank most of the HSA 
contributions.  But, if it happens during a year the plan is used to the 
max, the cost does end up about the same with some savings over the PPO 
with the HSA plans.  The one difference that could make a difference is 
the PPO has an embedded deductible and the HSA is non embedded.  From 
what I understand is with the embedded if one person meets the 
individual deductible then the plan kicks in after that.  Once the 
family amount is met then it kicks in for everyone.  With non embedded 
the family amount has to be met before the plan kicks is so it almost 
seems to me the individual amount is irrelevant. All my calculations 
were based on the family deductible and out of pocket max.




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Health plan comparison.xlsx
Description: MS-Excel 2007 spreadsheet
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Re: [MBZ] 91 350SD update

[Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes]

I guess anything it possible.

On 9/29/2019 5:16 PM, Max Dillon via Mercedes wrote:

What about a locked up starter, stuck in the ring gear?


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[MBZ] 190D update

[Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes]

I fiddled with the 190D a little today.  I pulled the fuel tank sender 
again since it was showing empty.  It appears it reads correct till it 
gets to half way then drops all the way down.  I do no really know what 
else to do with it.  I tried the other one and it reads empty all the 
time no matter where the float is.  I guess my only thing left to do is 
find a good used one or buy a new one.


I checked the resistance of the evap temps sensor directly from its plug 
behind the battery and the measurements are off, so I guess I will just 
replace it then maybe the compressor will not run constantly.



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[MBZ] 91 350SD update

[Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes]

As a refresher this is the $300 91 350SD I picked up that the PO said 
engine was hydrolocked.  Ran fine when parked at work then when they 
came out it would not turn over. I put breaker bar on crank and it would 
not turn forward or reverse.  Engine is very clean and has plenty of oil 
in it.  Oil looks like normal diesel oil, not fresh oil that might have 
been added after it was ran dry.  I pulled the valve cover and chain is 
not broken and nothing is going on up top.


Today I removed all of the injectors.  #1 was somewhat oily on the 
bottom.  The rest were dry.  After pulling the injectors engine is still 
locked tight.  I then removed the vacuum pump suspecting it exploded.  
It was the original style but appears to be intact so I do not think 
that was the issue.


I do not think it was ran out of oil because it has oil in it. The PO 
did mention IIRC that it was using oil and/or coolant. Maybe it flooded 
with coolant then rusted the pistons.  Or, maybe the #1 rod broke and 
that locked it up.  In any case, it appears an engine tear down or swap 
is in its future.



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Re: [MBZ] Costco tires

[Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes]

These Starfire tires that were $48 on the 210 seem decent.

On 9/27/2019 10:35 PM, Dimitri Seretakis via Mercedes wrote:

$50 decent tires don’t exist!

Sent from my iPhone


On Sep 27, 2019, at 2:15 PM, Andrew Strasfogel via Mercedes 
 wrote:

Nope. Can get decent new h rated brands @$50.

On Fri, Sep 27, 2019, 2:04 PM Karl Wittnebel via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:


If price is really the chief factor, just go to that used tire place in
Rosslyn or the one in Baltimore and pick out something suitable. Usually
you can get pretty good stuff for a fraction of the cheapest chain stuff.

On Mon, Sep 23, 2019, 7:26 AM Andrew Strasfogel via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:


The $45 Go Forms are starting to deteriorate after 8 years - not bad for

an

off brand.

I found some decent Nankang H rated all weather tires online @$50, all
inclusive.  I will ask Costco to mount/balance them.  If all goes well, I
will share my experience with the selling website.

Andrew



On Sun, Sep 22, 2019 at 4:19 PM Rick Knoble via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:


Costco doesn't carry any 195/70/14 tires for my 300TD

Sure they do. See the attached screenshot. They aren't your cheap,
Pro-form, $25 a tire, but they sell that size tire. Order a set and

call

it

good. Or go to Discount Tire and have them mount your cheapies.


Rick


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Re: [MBZ] Aside from green on green, this is probably my 2nd favorite color combo on a 115

[Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes]

If I could get it for $4-5k, maybe...

On 9/21/2019 9:32 PM, Dwight Giles wrote:

Way out of your price range. Looks like a nice 115.

Dwight Giles Jr.
Wickford RI

On Sat, Sep 21, 2019, 10:27 PM Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes 
mailto:mercedes@okiebenz.com>> wrote:


Maybe I should sell several okie cars and buy this.


https://www.ebay.com/itm/1976-Mercedes-Benz-200-Series-240D/223675334343?hash=item341416bec7:g:PyMAAOSwX4FdaI5p


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[MBZ] Aside from green on green, this is probably my 2nd favorite color combo on a 115

[Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes]

Maybe I should sell several okie cars and buy this.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1976-Mercedes-Benz-200-Series-240D/223675334343?hash=item341416bec7:g:PyMAAOSwX4FdaI5p


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Re: [MBZ] Frig keeps tripping the GFCI

[Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes]

That's what it says.

On 9/21/2019 8:15 PM, Craig via Mercedes wrote:

On Sat, 21 Sep 2019 20:12:15 -0500 Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes
 wrote:


Well the we just got back home and the thing has been running since
about 3:30 and it’s fine. I was at el Mercado de Wally and about a 20
amp one just in case.

A 20 amp GFCI receptacle?


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] Frig keeps tripping the GFCI

[Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes]

I just plugged it back into its normal outlet and it is running fine and 
has not tripped it.  I will let it run and see if it trips next time the 
ice maker tries to drop some ice.


On 9/21/2019 2:59 PM, Dan Penoff via Mercedes wrote:

This is a tricky one….

The NEC (210.8 & 210.52) has specified that refrigerators and other kitchen 
appliances be on a GFCI in commercial applications. It does not specify GFCIs in 
residential (“dwelling units”) for refrigerators. Also, if a GFCI is used for a 
refrigerator in a residential application and it’s branched to other receptacles, 
the circuit has to be a 20A circuit. If the outlet is dedicated to the 
refrigerator, it can be 15A or 20A.

Since your fridge is relatively modern there is no reason why it should be 
tripping the GFCI unless there’s a problem.

-D


On Sep 21, 2019, at 3:51 PM, Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes 
 wrote:

 From what I am reading it seems like items with motors such as refrigerators 
should not be on a GFCI outlet. If that is the case I would either have to swap 
it out for a regular one or run that outlet to a circuit that is not on a GFCI 
outlet circuit

Sent from my iPhone


On Sep 21, 2019, at 2:43 PM, Kaleb Striplin  wrote:

I thought maybe it was drawing too much power like a compressor start up or 
something. I did notice right after I plugged into to the non GFCI outlet it 
dropped a load of ice. I am getting ready to plug it back in to it’s normal 
outside and see what happens. Maybe the ice maker was drawing too much power 
for some reason.

Sent from my iPhone


On Sep 21, 2019, at 2:34 PM, Craig via Mercedes  wrote:

On Sat, 21 Sep 2019 14:26:46 -0500 Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes
 wrote:


I plugged the refrigerator into an extension cord and plugged it into
one of the other kitchen GFCI and it tripped also. Plugged into a 3rd
and it also tripped. Ran cord way over to a non GFCI outlet and it runs
fine. What the heck could the issue be? This started all the sudden?

The GFCIs are tripping because there is another way back to the power
panel in parallel with the white (neutral) wire.

Water spilled getting where it should not?


Craig

P.S. Good trouble shooting.

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[MBZ] holy crap I got excited until I saw the price

[Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes]

These are unobtanium now days and it has been years since I have seen 
one for sale.


https://www.ebay.com/itm/MERCEDES-WHEEL-HUBCAP-HUB-CAP-PAINT-STENCIL-SET-W116-W123-240D-300D-300CD-300TD/274013922017?hash=item3fcc80a2e1:g:es8AAOSwN3ddgZY4


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[MBZ] How much is this worth

[Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes]

It sure looks like it was rode hard and hung up wet.

https://www.copart.com/lot/48431029


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[MBZ] $300 rodbender

[Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes]

I picked up a 91 350SD today for $300.  Appears to be clean except for 
clear coat.  PO story was they were driving it and it ran fine when the 
stopped somewhere, back back out and it would not crank.  They said they 
replaced the starter and that did not fix it.  They said it was using 
oil, but no telling how much. Engine is very clean, as in nearly 
spotless.  Did not appear to have any leaks.  Anyway, he thought it 
hydro locked.  Car has been sitting about a year.  Looking at the car 
fax it appears to have been well maintained with regular visits to a 
local indy.  When I got it home I put a socket on the crank and it is 
locked solid, will not rotate in either direction.  I then pulled the 
valve cover to see if the timing chain may have broken or the cam 
sprocket or cam shaft, everything up top is intact. I am wondering if it 
has a severely bent rod then finally let go. If the story is to be 
believed I am not sure what would cause it to lock up at shutdown and 
then not turn over.


I have the 91 SDL that has the updated rod engine but the wiring under 
the fuse fire.  I have been debating on if I should try to repair that 
car or part it out.  I guess I will probably pull that engine and drop 
it in this car.


After looking at this car, it really looks like a car I had a deal to 
buy about 4 years ago for about $2k but the guy backed out.  Said his 
mother said he had to sell it for more.  WTF?  I am not 100% sure it is 
the same car but the left side had some paint work done on it on the car 
I looked at 4 years ago with a slight paint line along the roof line 
edge.  This car has the same thing.



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[MBZ] This weekends project

[Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes]

I pulled the drive shaft on the 98 E300 to cure the increasingly worse 
vibration when taking off from a start, which I assumed was the center 
support.  When I dropped the exhaust shield, yep, center support was 
shot.  Along with that I replaced the front flex disk and trans mount.  
The rear flex disk was done when I replace the differential.  The 
differential cover has also been leaking for a while and I discovered 
when I sealed the cover before installing it I failed to torque the 
bolts all the way down. Wow.  I was able to unbolt it from the car with 
a jack under it and was able to drop it down and push it forward enough 
to get the bolts off without pulling the axles.  Removed the cover 
cleaned it up and applied the sealant and torqued them down properly 
this time.  Got it reinstalled, slammed the drive shaft back in, filled 
the diff with oil and job done.  Drive it up the street and problem 
solve.  It is way more quite and smooth.  Seems to have more power too, 
but not sure how that could be.  Maybe it was because I have been 
keeping out of the pedal to keep it from banging around.



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[MBZ] super low mile rod bender

[Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes]

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1991-Mercedes-Benz-300-Series-350SD/274007539503?hash=item3fcc1f3f2f:g:te0AAOSw7KldfBU~


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[MBZ] 190D fuel gauge

[Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes]

The tank sender on the 190D was stuck so I pulled it out and cleaned it 
up as best as I could.  I put it back in and it worked when tank was 
full, but jumped around sometimes.  Now the tank has about 260 miles on 
it so I figure it is at about the half mark. It was jumping around and 
would drop all the way to the bottom, then come back to where the level 
should be.  For the last 40 miles or so it is just completely dead.  
Should I pull the sender out and try to clean it some more, or spend the 
money on a new one?  Or some other issue?



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Re: [MBZ] 190D AC

[Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes]

Any idea what the values should be?

On 9/13/2019 5:04 PM, Peter Frederick via Mercedes wrote:

Check the resistance of the sensor, they are all thermistors.  Also check for 
continuity.  If you have access to a wiring diagram, you should be able to pull 
a connector on the PBCU and test the appropriate pins on the connector.
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[MBZ] 190D cruise control fixed

[Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes]

The cruise control on the 190D is now working perfectly.  A rebuilt 
Programa unit fixed it.  I am probably going to give up trying to 
rebuild these.  From now on I will probably send them out to that James 
Dean guy.



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[MBZ] at the PNP today

[Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes]

I went back to the PNP today to pull some parts off what appeared to be 
a very nice low mile 96 E300 when it arrived about a month ago.  When it 
first arrived I pulled quite a bit of bits off it. I went back today for 
the hood and a fender.  A part was pulled that I have never seen pulled 
at a pnp before, the main fuel filter.  Really!  It was there last time 
I saw the car.



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Re: [MBZ] Looks pretty good for a 201

[Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes]

Of course the 30mpg claim is BS.  Appears they only do about 24 maybe.  
That seems low but that is what fueleconomy.gov says.


On 9/10/2019 7:18 PM, Max Dillon via Mercedes wrote:

New t-stat, you're golden.


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Re: [MBZ] Looks pretty good for a 201

[Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes]

Assuming he did not run it hot and cracked the head.

On 9/10/2019 7:18 PM, Max Dillon via Mercedes wrote:

New t-stat, you're golden.


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Re: [MBZ] And I Thought It Was Going To Be A Quiet Day....

[Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes]

I have never had to replace any hoses and I have done a bunch of them.

On 9/8/2019 4:28 PM, Dan Penoff via Mercedes wrote:

Is that the case when the dryer is supplied with the hose? Or are you saying 
the dryer has been updated or changed, and a hose is required for it to fit?

I ask because I see the dryer sold both with and without the hose and there 
doesn’t seem to be an explanation as to why. Maybe it’s based on the brand of 
the dryer?

-D


On Sep 8, 2019, at 4:58 PM, Rick Knoble via Mercedes  
wrote:

The dryer has a different outlet configuration and as such the hose from the 
dryer to the condenser gets changed too.


Rick

From: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: September 8, 2019 3:49 PM
To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Reply-to: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Cc: d...@penoff.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] And I Thought It Was Going To Be A Quiet Day

Rick,

Can you be more specific about the hose that should be replaced? I ask because 
I don’t see any footnotes about hoses for the receiver/dryer or the compressor, 
however, I do notice that some aftermarket suppliers offer kits with the hose 
between the condenser and receiver/dryer with the receiver/dryer.

Thanks!

-D

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Re: [MBZ] And I Thought It Was Going To Be A Quiet Day....

[Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes]

Its a whore of a job on the M112.  You have to remove the motor mount on 
that side to get enough room to get the compressor out.


On 9/8/2019 3:33 PM, Dan Penoff via Mercedes wrote:

DING! DING! DING!

We have a winner!

Thanks, Rick, I owe you a beverage of your choosing next time we meet.

Didn’t even bother with the panel diagnostics. Fired it up, compressor was 
running, put a set of gauges on it and there’s 150 PSI on both sides. I love 
those easy diagnoses!

And now to find a new compressor and receiver/dryer. Not looking forward to 
this job, hopefully it’s not bad. Never done a compressor on a W210/M112.

Again, thank you!

-D




On Sep 8, 2019, at 3:06 PM, Rick Knoble via Mercedes  
wrote:

Dan says:



About 2:00 the youngest son comes in saying the >AC in his 2002 W210 puked. Nothing but 
(hot) air. >After he cools off and finishes a cold beverage I >guess it’s back out to 
the garage to do some AC >diagnostics. Ugh.


The ACC panel has a pretty good built in diagnostic, but you have the SDS too.


If it has refrigerant, the high side and low side pressure is the same, and the 
compressor is original, the Denso compressors in the 210's are variable 
displacement, and have a Reed valve that breaks.
New compressor time. That and receiver dryer that is updated and a new hose. Ugh. Yeah, 
to quote BJ Clinton "I feel your pain.".


Rick
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Re: [MBZ] 190D cruise control strangeness

[Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes]

I just went thru the board again.  I found a couple of points that I 
redid that were light on the solder.  I also found a spot where some 
loose solder flakes might have potentially been connecting 2 points.  I 
double checked to make sure I had the polarity correct on the caps.


Tomorrow I am going to run thru the test procedure for the actuator then 
give it another shot.  I might just start sending the things to that 
dude on peach parts that fixes them.  I would not be such a big deal if 
I could just replace the caps and it be fixed, but often times you have 
to go thru the entire board which is a pain in the ass.


On 9/7/2019 9:09 PM, Meade Dillon via Mercedes wrote:

How confident are you that you did a good job the first time?  Maybe take
some pix front of board and back, put them up on Google Drive or someplace
where Craig and Jim can take a look and give you a grade for your work so
far.

If you think you could do better, take another crack at it.  Kinda depends
on how much time you want to sink into it.
-
Max
Charleston SC


On Sat, Sep 7, 2019 at 7:39 PM Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:


As in maybe I need to go back thru and check all the solder joints again?

Sent from my iPhone


On Sep 7, 2019, at 6:14 PM, Max Dillon via Mercedes <

mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

Your amplifier board still has issues.
--
Max Dillon
Charleston SC


On September 7, 2019 5:30:24 PM EDT, Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes <

mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

I took it for a longer drive probably 15 miles or so and it does seem
to be doing as described. Sometimes it does seem like it holds speed
longer then eventually starts to drop. Accelerate seems to do nothing.
I checked the input signals from the stock and they all check out.

Sent from my iPhone


On Sep 7, 2019, at 3:42 PM, Mitch Haley via Mercedes

 wrote:

The sinking speed sure sounds like a leaking speed reference cap.
Whether the cap is leaking or something is draining it, I wouldn't

begin to know.

Mitch.

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[MBZ] 190D cruise control strangeness

[Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes]

I am sorting out this 190D and one of the issues was dead cruise 
control.  When I first got it cruise was completely dead.  I pulled the 
amp and replaced the caps.  It would engage sometimes and will hold for 
a minute or so then would drop out.  I pulled the amp again and replaced 
the solder on every joint.  In the mean time I also pulled the 
instrument cluster to replace the fuel/oil/temp gauge.  When I put it 
back together the cruise does not work at all.  I pulled the cluster 
again and swapped the speed sensor in the cluster with a different one.


Took car out again and it seemed to be working perfectly for a minute.  
If I get the car up to, say, 65 and set the cruise while in 5th gear, it 
holds that speed fine.  After about a minute or so it starts to lose 
speed gradually.  I can tell the cruise is still engages its like the 
set speed just keeps going down.  After the cruise is engaged if I push 
the stock up to increase speed, it does not increase, it almost acts 
like the cruise is disengaged until I let go of it then it engages again 
at whatever speed it dropped to.  If I push it forward to cancel, then 
pull it back to reengage it does not go back to the previously set 
speed.  It seems to engage and whatever speed it dropped to and will 
hold there then start dropping.


When I was on our street car was at about 50 in 4th gear and it seemed 
to hold fine there.  I really need to drive it some more and play with 
it to get a better idea of its behavior but this is my initial 
assessment.  Any ideas?



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Re: [MBZ] W210 Decisions

[Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes]

Its the same 606

On 9/7/2019 9:40 AM, Dan Penoff via Mercedes wrote:

What engine does the turbo model use?

-D



On Sep 7, 2019, at 10:30 AM, Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes 
 wrote:

Uhhh, boat loads of more power.  The non turbo is fine, but if you have the 
option of finding a nice turbo 98-99, jump on it.

On 9/7/2019 9:25 AM, Dan Penoff via Mercedes wrote:

Looking to possibly upgrade older boy’s W124 so I can send it to Okie Acres and 
add to the pile there.

I’m seeing both non-turbo (OM606) and turbo (?) engined W210s in my 
neighborhood for sale. I completely understand the benefits of the OM606, but 
what, if any, advantages would the turbo model have over the non turbo other 
than power and probably lower fuel mileage?

-D
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Re: [MBZ] W210 Decisions

[Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes]

Uhhh, boat loads of more power.  The non turbo is fine, but if you have 
the option of finding a nice turbo 98-99, jump on it.


On 9/7/2019 9:25 AM, Dan Penoff via Mercedes wrote:

Looking to possibly upgrade older boy’s W124 so I can send it to Okie Acres and 
add to the pile there.

I’m seeing both non-turbo (OM606) and turbo (?) engined W210s in my 
neighborhood for sale. I completely understand the benefits of the OM606, but 
what, if any, advantages would the turbo model have over the non turbo other 
than power and probably lower fuel mileage?

-D
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Re: [MBZ] A Good Deal, or ????

[Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes]

I have many years of first hand experience of driving a 123 240D versus 
a 115 240D and the 115 version is much more peppy in auto form than the 
123 version.  My first experience with driving MB was my grandmothers 76 
240D auto (which is sitting in out in the shop).  My first car I owned 
myself was a 79 240D auto.  I always thought there was something wrong 
with it because it was so much slower than the 115.


On 9/4/2019 7:07 PM, Curt Raymond wrote:

Ugly color and an auto but a good price.

I've heard that a 115 auto 240D isn't so bad...

-Curt

On Wednesday, September 4, 2019, 8:00:49 PM EDT, Kaleb C. Striplin via 
Mercedes  wrote:



Hmmm, might not be a bad deal.

On 9/4/2019 6:42 PM, Dan Penoff via Mercedes wrote:
> 
https://tampa.craigslist.org/hil/cto/d/tampa-classic-1975-mercedes-benz-240d/6953395471.html 
<https://tampa.craigslist.org/hil/cto/d/tampa-classic-1975-mercedes-benz-240d/6953395471.html 
><https://tampa.craigslist.org/hil/cto/d/tampa-classic-1975-mercedes-benz-240d/6953395471.html>

>
> Hmm
>
> -D
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Re: [MBZ] A Good Deal, or ????

[Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes]

Hmmm, might not be a bad deal.

On 9/4/2019 6:42 PM, Dan Penoff via Mercedes wrote:

https://tampa.craigslist.org/hil/cto/d/tampa-classic-1975-mercedes-benz-240d/6953395471.html
 


Hmm

-D
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[MBZ] Benzworld

[Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes]

Poos is right, the new Benzworld forum sucks.


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Re: [MBZ] 201 fuel sender unit

[Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes]

I just googled and a post there came up.  I guess I have not been on BW 
in a while then, I have not noticed anything new last time I was there.


On 8/31/2019 12:59 PM, Dan Penoff via Mercedes wrote:

You actually found something you were looking for on BW with their new 
interface? Or did you just Google it?

Their new setup sucks, period. I hate it.

-D



On Aug 31, 2019, at 1:56 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes 
 wrote:

Well after I got cleaned up and came in the house to sit on my rear for a while 
I found a BW post that details it.  Apparently on these there is a screw on the 
head of it somewhere that you remove and the tube comes  off.  I did not look 
for a screw on the top.

On 8/31/2019 12:54 PM, Dan Penoff via Mercedes wrote:

They’ve got to come apart somehow. Does maybe the whole tube unscrew and the 
disc is fixed in the bottom?

Never seen one like that, but I’ve never worked on a 210, either.

Can’t you tell how it’s assembled now that one of them is apart?

-D




On Aug 31, 2019, at 1:32 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes 
 wrote:

I pulled the fuel tank sender on this 190D to clean it because it is stuck.  I 
have fixed many of these and they all have a plastic nut on the bottom you 
unscrew with a pair of pliers.  I have never done a 201 sender. This 201 has a 
flat disk thing on the bottom that does not seem to turn.  I decided to pull 
one out of another 190D I have and it is stuck too so I figured I would try to 
remove this one.  Same thing.  It does not even seem like it is intended to 
turn.  I ground it off with the bench grinder but the bottom still does not 
come off.  I set it in the bench vice not clamped down to try and pop the end 
off.  I got the end to pop off but in the process bent the tube, so it is trash.

I dropped the original one in the parts washer and will let it set in there 
until next week. I am doubtful this will clean it up but figured I would try.  
Is there some trick to getting this thing apart?


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Re: [MBZ] Addition for Okie Acres - Auntie Em!!

[Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes]

You would have to hire it done I am sure.  They have special crane 
trucks for doing this, they are used for septic tanks as well.


On 8/31/2019 12:55 PM, Dan Penoff via Mercedes wrote:

That thing has got to weigh a ton (literally!) I guess you would have to have a 
flatbed trailer and a big honking winch to pull it on to the trailer?

-D



On Aug 31, 2019, at 1:27 PM, Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes 
 wrote:

S they live in a tornado infested area, they buy a home that came with a 
storm shelter and now they want to sell the shelter? Makes great sense.

Sent from my iPhone


On Aug 31, 2019, at 12:04 PM, Dan Penoff via Mercedes  
wrote:

Kaleb needs this:

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/503195493818291/

(It’s a $1500 storm shelter for those who can’t see FB.)

-D
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Re: [MBZ] 201 fuel sender unit

[Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes]

Well after I got cleaned up and came in the house to sit on my rear for 
a while I found a BW post that details it.  Apparently on these there is 
a screw on the head of it somewhere that you remove and the tube comes  
off.  I did not look for a screw on the top.


On 8/31/2019 12:54 PM, Dan Penoff via Mercedes wrote:

They’ve got to come apart somehow. Does maybe the whole tube unscrew and the 
disc is fixed in the bottom?

Never seen one like that, but I’ve never worked on a 210, either.

Can’t you tell how it’s assembled now that one of them is apart?

-D




On Aug 31, 2019, at 1:32 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes 
 wrote:

I pulled the fuel tank sender on this 190D to clean it because it is stuck.  I 
have fixed many of these and they all have a plastic nut on the bottom you 
unscrew with a pair of pliers.  I have never done a 201 sender. This 201 has a 
flat disk thing on the bottom that does not seem to turn.  I decided to pull 
one out of another 190D I have and it is stuck too so I figured I would try to 
remove this one.  Same thing.  It does not even seem like it is intended to 
turn.  I ground it off with the bench grinder but the bottom still does not 
come off.  I set it in the bench vice not clamped down to try and pop the end 
off.  I got the end to pop off but in the process bent the tube, so it is trash.

I dropped the original one in the parts washer and will let it set in there 
until next week. I am doubtful this will clean it up but figured I would try.  
Is there some trick to getting this thing apart?


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[MBZ] 201 fuel sender unit

[Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes]

I pulled the fuel tank sender on this 190D to clean it because it is 
stuck.  I have fixed many of these and they all have a plastic nut on 
the bottom you unscrew with a pair of pliers.  I have never done a 201 
sender. This 201 has a flat disk thing on the bottom that does not seem 
to turn.  I decided to pull one out of another 190D I have and it is 
stuck too so I figured I would try to remove this one.  Same thing.  It 
does not even seem like it is intended to turn.  I ground it off with 
the bench grinder but the bottom still does not come off.  I set it in 
the bench vice not clamped down to try and pop the end off.  I got the 
end to pop off but in the process bent the tube, so it is trash.


I dropped the original one in the parts washer and will let it set in 
there until next week. I am doubtful this will clean it up but figured I 
would try.  Is there some trick to getting this thing apart?



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Re: [MBZ] 201 service manual

[Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes]

Thanks!

On 8/31/2019 12:23 AM, OK Don via Mercedes wrote:

https://1drv.ms/u/s!Aq8Oa078p_LjgQGp_8GpYAO2cH39?e=LThxVZ

On Sat, Aug 31, 2019 at 12:20 AM OK Don  wrote:


I'm uploading it tonight - will send you a link tomorrow ...

On Fri, Aug 30, 2019 at 9:06 PM Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:


If I don’t find one online I will take you up one it!


Sent from my iPhone


On Aug 30, 2019, at 9:04 PM, Frederick Moir via Mercedes <

mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

Kaleb
I have the MBZ 201 CD/manual that I no longer need.
Yours if you want it.
Fred

On Fri, Aug 30, 2019 at 9:53 PM Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:


Does anybody have a link or a download for the 201 service manuals?  I
think somebody posted one at some point but I am not seeing it.

Thanks


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--
Fred Moir
Lynn MA
Diesel preferred
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--
OK Don

"Whenever you find yourself on the side of the majority, it is time to
pause and reflect." Mark Twain

"There are three kinds of men: The ones that learns by reading. The few
who learn by observation. The rest of them have to pee on the electric
fence for themselves."

WILL ROGERS, *The Manly Wisdom of Will Rogers*
2013 F150, 18 mpg
2017 Subaru Legacy, 30 mpg
1957 C182A, 12 mpg - but at 150 mph!





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[MBZ] This looks nice

[Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes]

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1978-Mercedes-Benz-400-Series-Mercedes/153623491248?hash=item23c4ac72b0:g:2u0AAOSwjcVdVzs5


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[MBZ] Uhh, ok

[Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes]

https://www.copart.com/lot/47742529


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[MBZ] 201 service manual

[Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes]

Does anybody have a link or a download for the 201 service manuals?  I 
think somebody posted one at some point but I am not seeing it.


Thanks


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[MBZ] 190D update

[Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes]

Today I pulled the instrument cluster because the PO had replaced the 
fuel temp oil gauge with one out of a gasser, so I put the correct one 
in.  Took car to town to fill it up with fresh diesel and to see if fuel 
gauge works, it doesn't. I guess I need to pull the sending unit and 
clean it.


The cruise control appears to be completely dead again.  I double 
checked to make sure I got the plug back on the speed sensor on the back 
of the cluster, and I did so I brought the amp back in the house and 
will redo all of the solder.



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Re: [MBZ] The 190D progress

[Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes]

Oh yea forgot to mention I think I may end up having to recover the 
refrigerant.  After it was shut down I checked for leaks again and kept 
getting a hit from the manifold assembly connection on top of the 
compressor.  I think its the square gasket on top.  If that is the case 
I am probably going to have to pull the compressor so I can get it off.


On 8/29/2019 5:55 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes wrote:
Got the drier swapped and pulled a vacuum for 1 hour, then charged it 
with R134 (I converted it last year after I got it with new fittings, 
new expansion valve etc).  The 201 seems to be very R134 conversion 
friendly as the air is literally ice cold.  I checked it for leaks 
while running and none were located.  I had an issue with the right 
fog light and parking light not coming on.  I discovered some mice 
damaged wires behind the battery. Spliced those and we were in business.


A week or so ago I brought the cruise control amp in the house and 
replaced the caps.  I did not replace all of the solder like I 
normally do.  When I tried it last year cruise was completely dead.  
Aired up the tires to the proper level and took it for about a 2-3 
mile drive.  Got it out on the highway and up to 70. Boy it is slow 
compared to the E300 which I am used to driving. Suspension seems OK, 
nothing seemed abnormal.  When I had the car at about 50 or so cruise 
seemed to engage but drop out.  On the way back I got the car up to 70 
and cruise held, disengaged with the switch and re-engaged like it 
should.  Might have to work on the amp some more, not sure yet.


The brake pad warning light started coming on and brake rotors seem 
rough so it probably will need pads and rotors.  The climate control 
seems to be working like it should but I am not sure how the AC 
buttons are supposed to work. The snow flake is supposed to be normal 
cooling.  I did not try it after first starting the system but the 
compressor does not seem to engage with this setting.  The other 
button the max cool button with the 3 wavy lines was what I had to run 
it with and compressor stays engaged full time with that button.  
Anybody know what is up with that?  I figured the normal mode the 
compressor would cycle but it never seemed to kick on at all.


The 2 front windows work but the back 2 windows do not.  The sunroof 
works fine as does the radio antenna.  Windshield needs to be 
replaced.  I also need to pull and lube the blower motor or replace 
it, it squeaks sometimes.  What should I use to lube it, or should I 
just replace it?



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[MBZ] The 190D progress

[Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes]

Got the drier swapped and pulled a vacuum for 1 hour, then charged it 
with R134 (I converted it last year after I got it with new fittings, 
new expansion valve etc).  The 201 seems to be very R134 conversion 
friendly as the air is literally ice cold.  I checked it for leaks while 
running and none were located.  I had an issue with the right fog light 
and parking light not coming on.  I discovered some mice damaged wires 
behind the battery. Spliced those and we were in business.


A week or so ago I brought the cruise control amp in the house and 
replaced the caps.  I did not replace all of the solder like I normally 
do.  When I tried it last year cruise was completely dead.  Aired up the 
tires to the proper level and took it for about a 2-3 mile drive.  Got 
it out on the highway and up to 70. Boy it is slow compared to the E300 
which I am used to driving. Suspension seems OK, nothing seemed 
abnormal.  When I had the car at about 50 or so cruise seemed to engage 
but drop out.  On the way back I got the car up to 70 and cruise held, 
disengaged with the switch and re-engaged like it should.  Might have to 
work on the amp some more, not sure yet.


The brake pad warning light started coming on and brake rotors seem 
rough so it probably will need pads and rotors.  The climate control 
seems to be working like it should but I am not sure how the AC buttons 
are supposed to work. The snow flake is supposed to be normal cooling.  
I did not try it after first starting the system but the compressor does 
not seem to engage with this setting.  The other button the max cool 
button with the 3 wavy lines was what I had to run it with and 
compressor stays engaged full time with that button.  Anybody know what 
is up with that?  I figured the normal mode the compressor would cycle 
but it never seemed to kick on at all.


The 2 front windows work but the back 2 windows do not.  The sunroof 
works fine as does the radio antenna.  Windshield needs to be replaced.  
I also need to pull and lube the blower motor or replace it, it squeaks 
sometimes.  What should I use to lube it, or should I just replace it?



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Re: [MBZ] Fwd: 1985 Mercedes 300 SD

[Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes]

That would be a decent deal.

On 8/29/2019 5:24 PM, Frederick Moir via Mercedes wrote:

300SD?

-- Forwarded message -
From: 
Date: Thu, Aug 29, 2019 at 6:23 PM
Subject: 1985 Mercedes 300 SD
To: 


fred4s...@gmail.com forwarded you this from craigslist:
--
1985 Mercedes 300 SD

https://nh.craigslist.org/cto/6960276309.html
--

*Please go to the preferences page

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Re: [MBZ] OT - Adjustable Beds

[Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes]

As I said in my post, we have had ours for about 4 years and there has 
not been any sagging or compression noticed.


With our old normal pillow top spring mattress I woke up in pain about 
every day.  When I go to hotels, which is often, depending on the beds 
they use I often wake up in pain.  With our mattress at home, I never 
wake up in pain.


On 8/28/2019 6:18 PM, Scott Ritchey via Mercedes wrote:

Kaleb,

Can you comment on the durability of that mattress system?

SWMBO and I notice that new mattresses start out comfortable but definite depressions develop in 
conventional mattresses (within a year or so) and the mattress becomes less comfortable.  We find 
the "broken in" mattress is more comfortable on the "ridge" between the two 
depressions.  It seems the top padding compresses the most, not the springs.

Do new/fancy mattresses resist this?

Scott


-Original Message-
From: Kaleb C.

Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT - Adjustable Beds

Yep, several years ago we were going to get one at the local furniture store
and was getting ready to spend about $6k on one of the foam ones, adjustable
etc.  We were looking at the Serta iComfort series.  At one of the stores
they had some top of the line model (can't remember what it was called) that
was $10k. Before spending that kind of money I decided to check out the
island of large women.  I took a change and bought a split kind
DynastyMatress brand.  They have several different models and we went with
the top of the line model called the grand or something like that.  At the
time I believe it was $999 for the split king. It came as a package deal
with the adjustable base that does vibrate but no heat etc.  I can't
remember what brand it was but all said and done it was around $2500 or
so.  This is a difference base than we have but this is all pretty similar
to what we got:

https://www.amazon.com/DynastyMattress-15-5-Inch-AtlantisBreeze-Mattress-
Adjustable/dp/B01FRIMTIK/ref=sr_1_29?crid=1M4BLSTSR6OB&keywords=adjustable+m
attress+base&qid=1567031647&s=gateway&sprefix=adjustable+ma%2Caps%2C295&sr=8
-29

We have had it about 4 years now and it has been great.  No issues at
all.  I figured out this foam gel mattress business is a rip off if you go
buy one at the store.  The model we got compared to and was about identical
to that $10k model we looked at in the store.

I am pretty sure this is the mattress we got, I think its the same one in
the link I quoted above

https://www.amazon.com/DynastyMattress-15-5-Inch-AtlantisBreeze-Memory-
Mattress-
King/dp/B00B22W4V8/ref=sr_1_6?crid=3G8PATP6XMTCY&keywords=dynasty+mattress&q
id=1567031854&s=gateway&sprefix=dynasty%2Caps%2C340&sr=8-6


On 8/28/2019 5:15 PM, Dan Penoff via Mercedes wrote:

Giving some serious thought to getting a king size (dual mattress)

adjustable bed. Don’t want heat, massage, any of that froo-froo stuff, just
a bed that both sides can be adjusted independently.

Anyone here have one of these and/or experience to offer in how you chose

it?

Thanks,

-D



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Re: [MBZ] OT - Adjustable Beds

[Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes]

I should mention the base listed with the set below looks like it is a 
hell of a lot better than what they had back when we got ours for the 
same price.


On 8/28/2019 5:38 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes wrote:
Yep, several years ago we were going to get one at the local furniture 
store and was getting ready to spend about $6k on one of the foam 
ones, adjustable etc.  We were looking at the Serta iComfort series.  
At one of the stores they had some top of the line model (can't 
remember what it was called) that was $10k. Before spending that kind 
of money I decided to check out the island of large women.  I took a 
change and bought a split kind DynastyMatress brand.  They have 
several different models and we went with the top of the line model 
called the grand or something like that.  At the time I believe it was 
$999 for the split king. It came as a package deal with the adjustable 
base that does vibrate but no heat etc.  I can't remember what brand 
it was but all said and done it was around $2500 or so.  This is a 
difference base than we have but this is all pretty similar to what we 
got:


https://www.amazon.com/DynastyMattress-15-5-Inch-AtlantisBreeze-Mattress-Adjustable/dp/B01FRIMTIK/ref=sr_1_29?crid=1M4BLSTSR6OB&keywords=adjustable+mattress+base&qid=1567031647&s=gateway&sprefix=adjustable+ma%2Caps%2C295&sr=8-29 



We have had it about 4 years now and it has been great.  No issues at 
all.  I figured out this foam gel mattress business is a rip off if 
you go buy one at the store.  The model we got compared to and was 
about identical to that $10k model we looked at in the store.


I am pretty sure this is the mattress we got, I think its the same one 
in the link I quoted above


https://www.amazon.com/DynastyMattress-15-5-Inch-AtlantisBreeze-Memory-Mattress-King/dp/B00B22W4V8/ref=sr_1_6?crid=3G8PATP6XMTCY&keywords=dynasty+mattress&qid=1567031854&s=gateway&sprefix=dynasty%2Caps%2C340&sr=8-6 




On 8/28/2019 5:15 PM, Dan Penoff via Mercedes wrote:
Giving some serious thought to getting a king size (dual mattress) 
adjustable bed. Don’t want heat, massage, any of that froo-froo 
stuff, just a bed that both sides can be adjusted independently.


Anyone here have one of these and/or experience to offer in how you 
chose it?


Thanks,

-D



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Re: [MBZ] OT - Adjustable Beds

[Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes]

Yep, several years ago we were going to get one at the local furniture 
store and was getting ready to spend about $6k on one of the foam ones, 
adjustable etc.  We were looking at the Serta iComfort series.  At one 
of the stores they had some top of the line model (can't remember what 
it was called) that was $10k. Before spending that kind of money I 
decided to check out the island of large women.  I took a change and 
bought a split kind DynastyMatress brand.  They have several different 
models and we went with the top of the line model called the grand or 
something like that.  At the time I believe it was $999 for the split 
king. It came as a package deal with the adjustable base that does 
vibrate but no heat etc.  I can't remember what brand it was but all 
said and done it was around $2500 or so.  This is a difference base than 
we have but this is all pretty similar to what we got:


https://www.amazon.com/DynastyMattress-15-5-Inch-AtlantisBreeze-Mattress-Adjustable/dp/B01FRIMTIK/ref=sr_1_29?crid=1M4BLSTSR6OB&keywords=adjustable+mattress+base&qid=1567031647&s=gateway&sprefix=adjustable+ma%2Caps%2C295&sr=8-29

We have had it about 4 years now and it has been great.  No issues at 
all.  I figured out this foam gel mattress business is a rip off if you 
go buy one at the store.  The model we got compared to and was about 
identical to that $10k model we looked at in the store.


I am pretty sure this is the mattress we got, I think its the same one 
in the link I quoted above


https://www.amazon.com/DynastyMattress-15-5-Inch-AtlantisBreeze-Memory-Mattress-King/dp/B00B22W4V8/ref=sr_1_6?crid=3G8PATP6XMTCY&keywords=dynasty+mattress&qid=1567031854&s=gateway&sprefix=dynasty%2Caps%2C340&sr=8-6


On 8/28/2019 5:15 PM, Dan Penoff via Mercedes wrote:

Giving some serious thought to getting a king size (dual mattress) adjustable 
bed. Don’t want heat, massage, any of that froo-froo stuff, just a bed that 
both sides can be adjusted independently.

Anyone here have one of these and/or experience to offer in how you chose it?

Thanks,

-D



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Re: [MBZ] OT PPO V HDHP w/HSA

[Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes]

I forgot to mention the PPO plan has an embedded deductible and the HDHP 
is non embedded.  I am not sure exactly how all that works or which one 
would be better.


On 8/26/2019 9:50 PM, Craig via Mercedes wrote:

So what you have are:


PPO costs $825/month
PPO family plan has $500 individual, $1000 family deductible
Out of pocket max is $2500/$5000
Coinsurance is $15 for doctor visits and other items
 are 10% after deductible is met
Drug copay is $10/$25/$50, depending on the drug


HDHP #1 (High Deductible Health Plan) costs $420 per month
HDHP #1 has $2000 individual, $2700 family deductible
Out of pocket max is $4000/$8000
Cost for care is 20% for everything after deductible is met
 including prescriptions


HDHP #2 costs $165 a month
HDHP #2 has $3000 individual, $6000 family deductible
Out of pocket max is $6000/$12000
Cost for care is 20% for everything after deductible is met
 including prescriptions




My thought is you would [go] with the lowest cost option and put in the
max $5k per year, broken out per month you would be at around $243 less
than the premium paid on under the PPO plan per month.  Plus the $416
or so you put in would stay in the account and roll over year to year
as opposed to paying it out in premiums. Problem is if you have
something come up you would have to cover it out of pocket and
hopefully have enough in the HSA at the time. Other problem is
if you have expensive prescriptions on a monthly basis.

 From this I infer the maximum contribution to the Healthcare Savings
Account (HSA) is $5k per year (= $416.66/month).

The cost of the PPO is $825/month
The cost of the HDHP #2 ($165/month) plus the cost of the HSA
contribution ($416.66/month) is $581.66, which is $243.34 less
than the cost of the PPO, as you said.

1. Does the HSA really roll over from year to year without any problem?

2. How healthy is your family?

3. Do you have expensive prescriptions on a monthly basis?

Yes, the problem with the HDHPs is you have to cover whatever comes up,
whether from your HSA or directly from your pocket.

If your family is healthy and won't have any accidents, the HDHP is the
way to go.

If your family is not healthy, or if you have expensive monthly
prescriptions, or if you have an accident not covered by your
automobile or other insurance, the HDHPs are not such a good deal.
In that case the PPO would be preferable.


Craig







On Mon, 26 Aug 2019 21:04:17 -0500 "Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes"
 wrote:


On 8/26/2019 8:52 PM, Craig via Mercedes wrote:

On Mon, 26 Aug 2019 19:49:22 -0500 "Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes"
 wrote:


What are the thoughts on an employer PPO plan as opposed to a HDHP.
Let's say a PPO family plan has a $500 individual, $1000 family
deductible.  Out of pocket max is $2500/$5000.  Coinsurance is $15
for doctor visits and other items are 10% after deductible is met.
Prescriptions are

What?

$10/$25/$50 copay depending on the drug

Cost for PPO is $825/month.
HDHP #1 is $2000/$2700 deductible with $4000/$8000 out of pocket.
HDHP
#2 is $3000/$6000 deductible with $6000/$12000 out of pocket.  Cost
#for
care is 20% for everything after deductible is met including
prescriptions.

For both HDHP's?

20% is the same on both plans



HDHP #1 is $420 per month.
HDHP #2 is $165 a month.

If going with HDHP plan you can setup a HSA with a max contribution
of $5k per year with a $2k employer contribution.

Is the employer contribution independent of what you contribute?

I think it is an up to thing.  If you contribute $5k, they contribute
$2k.  I would assume if you put in less they put in less.



My thought is you would [go] with the lowest cost option and put in
the max $5k per year, broken out per month you would be at around
$243 less

Than what?

Less than the premium paid on under the PPO plan
   

per month.  Plus the $416 or so you put in would stay in the account
and roll over year to year as opposed to paying it out in premiums.
Problem is if you have something come up you would have to cover it
out of pocket and hopefully have enough in the HSA at the time.
Other problem is if you have expensive prescriptions on a monthly
basis.

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Re: [MBZ] OT PPO V HDHP w/HSA

[Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes]

On 8/26/2019 8:52 PM, Craig via Mercedes wrote:

On Mon, 26 Aug 2019 19:49:22 -0500 "Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes"
 wrote:


What are the thoughts on an employer PPO plan as opposed to a HDHP.
Let's say a PPO family plan has a $500 individual, $1000 family
deductible.  Out of pocket max is $2500/$5000.  Coinsurance is $15 for
doctor visits and other items are 10% after deductible is met.
Prescriptions are

What?

$10/$25/$50 copay depending on the drug



Cost for PPO is $825/month.



HDHP #1 is $2000/$2700 deductible with $4000/$8000 out of pocket.  HDHP
#2 is $3000/$6000 deductible with $6000/$12000 out of pocket.  Cost for
care is 20% for everything after deductible is met including
prescriptions.

For both HDHP's?

20% is the same on both plans




HDHP #1 is $420 per month.
HDHP #2 is $165 a month.

If going with HDHP plan you can setup a HSA with a max contribution of
$5k per year with a $2k employer contribution.

Is the employer contribution independent of what you contribute?
I think it is an up to thing.  If you contribute $5k, they contribute 
$2k.  I would assume if you put in less they put in less.




My thought is you would [go] with the lowest cost option and put in the
max $5k per year, broken out per month you would be at around $243 less

Than what?

Less than the premium paid on under the PPO plan
  

per month.  Plus the $416 or so you put in would stay in the account
and roll over year to year as opposed to paying it out in premiums.
Problem is if you have something come up you would have to cover it out
of pocket and hopefully have enough in the HSA at the time.  Other
problem is if you have expensive prescriptions on a monthly basis.

Anybody been down this road before?

Sort of ...


Craig

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[MBZ] OT PPO V HDHP w/HSA

[Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes]

What are the thoughts on an employer PPO plan as opposed to a HDHP.  
Let's say a PPO family plan has a $500 individual, $1000 family 
deductible.  Out of pocket max is $2500/$5000.  Coinsurance is $15 for 
doctor visits and other items are 10% after deductible is met.  
Prescriptions are


HDHP #1 is $2000/$2700 deductible with $4000/$8000 out of pocket.  HDHP 
#2 is $3000/$6000 deductible with $6000/$12000 out of pocket.  Cost for 
care is 20% for everything after deductible is met including prescriptions.


Cost for PPO is $825/month.  HDHP #1 is $420 per month.  HDHP #2 is $165 
a month.


If going with HDHP plan you can setup a HSA with a max contribution of 
$5k per year with a $2k employer contribution.


My thought is you would went with the lowest cost option and put in the 
max $5k per year, broken out per month you would be at around $243 less 
per month.  Plus the $416 or so you put in would stay in the account and 
roll over year to year as opposed to paying it out in premiums.  Problem 
is if you have something come up you would have to cover it out of 
pocket and hopefully have enough in the HSA at the time.  Other problem 
is if you have expensive prescriptions on a monthly basis.


Anybody been down this road before?


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[MBZ] Driveshaft center support

[Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes]

When replacing the drive shaft center support, should the bearing and 
the rubber part that mounts to the car both be replaced?  I need to do 
mine on my 210 and for some reason none of my usual sites importec and 
fcp list the the rubber part, only the bearing.  I had to go to 
autohausaz for the rubber part.  Seems odd the others would not have it.



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Re: [MBZ] OT website builder

[Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes]

I am not sure if a lot of these places are wanting you to create a site 
then host it with them.  I just need something that will build a site 
then I can upload the files to my server.


On 8/18/2019 6:21 PM, Dan Penoff via Mercedes wrote:

I tried doing something with these guys to replicate my existing site:

https://www.wix.com <https://www.wix.com/>

You can do a pretty basic site for free, and even their pay to play plans 
aren’t bad. Definitely geared towards e-commerce, but in a pinch you can sign 
up, do your thing and if you don’t like it, dump it.

I just didn’t follow through because of the massive undertaking it would entail 
to recreate my web site. I don’t have the time...

-D




On Aug 18, 2019, at 7:09 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes 
 wrote:

Does anybody know of a free website builder program and/or templates that can 
be edited.  I need to put something together and know very little about such 
things.



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[MBZ] OT website builder

[Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes]

Does anybody know of a free website builder program and/or templates 
that can be edited.  I need to put something together and know very 
little about such things.




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Re: [MBZ] Fwd: 1988 Mercedes 420 SEL 4.2 V8

[Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes]

Looks like it could be worth messing with if the paint is good and no rust.

On 8/17/2019 8:39 PM, Jaime Kopchinski via Mercedes wrote:

Probably needs cams and rockers.  Crappy oil kills them.

On Sat, Aug 17, 2019 at 9:25 PM Andrew Strasfogel via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:


How annoying is the sound of a "lifter noise"?  Deal breaker or minor
irritant?

On Sat, Aug 17, 2019 at 5:11 PM Frederick Moir via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:


-- Forwarded message -
From: 
Date: Sat, Aug 17, 2019 at 3:03 PM
Subject: 1988 Mercedes 420 SEL 4.2 V8
To: 


fred4s...@gmail.com forwarded you this from craigslist:
--
1988 Mercedes 420 SEL 4.2 V8

https://nh.craigslist.org/pts/6916316075.html
--

*Please go to the preferences page
<


https://accounts.craigslist.org/eafprefs/U2FsdGVkX18yNzA1MjcwNWXqkA76fTZoJC9V-HzZ5ht7nlblAOEW1ObM0-gVXJuuNuFTA6TWIG5pYFbvPL2E2Q

if you don't want to receive email-a-friend messages in the future.*


--
Fred Moir
Lynn MA
Diesel preferred
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--

Jaime Kopchinski
http://www.jaimekop.com/
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[MBZ] Minor amount of flooding

[Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes]

https://www.copart.com/lot/45794539


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[MBZ] Vacuum pump...

[Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes]

...Will be destroyed by a bad master cylinder.


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[MBZ] Overpriced 2.5 turbo manny

[Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes]

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1991-Mercedes-Benz-E-Class/163819170524?hash=item2624622adc:g:v~8AAOSwPPFdVIM1


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[MBZ] 123 bubble

[Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes]

Why would anybody in their right mind pay $5k plus when you can get a 
nice CDI for that kind of money?



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[MBZ] Statins

[Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes]

I have been on statins for probably 10 years off an on with my old 
doctor.  My old doctor was a quack so I had not been to see anyone for 
about 2 years and have not taken any for at least a year.  Finally went 
to new doctor yesterday. He went ahead and gave me a script for them 
again since it stood to reason if I needed them before I would still 
need them.  The doctor personally called me this morning saying he got 
my labs back.  That had me worried since I have never had a doctor call 
me.  He said not to take the statin because my numbers looked good.  
Upon logging in to their website to look at the results my numbers are 
not really a whole lot different than they were all along.  I just guess 
this doctor just does not push these pills on people.  For example, my 
current LDL is 127.  Last time I was tested in 17 it was 140.  I think 
that I may not have been taking a statin at that time.  The 2 tests 
before in 14 and 15 were 80 and 67 when I was on one. Before than it ran 
around 103 to 140.  I guess the new doctor is not getting kickbacks from 
the drug reps like my old doctor was.



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[MBZ] I wonder what the bio hazard is?

[Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes]

https://www.copart.com/lot/42596159


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[MBZ] eurrorriffic

[Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes]

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Mercedes-Euro-250D-5-speed-ESTATE-SUPERB-74K-MILES/183910081389?hash=item2ad1e5236d:g:U1kAAOSwrlddGVCb


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[MBZ] 123 Fakebook fools for today

[Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes]

Well, I have no updates on the nonsense going on because I was banned.  
Somebody else will have to start reporting back to us what the new level 
of stupidity is.



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[MBZ] Uhhh, here is a euroiffic 94 605 5 speed wagon

[Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes]

I wonder how much it will end up at

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1994-Mercedes-Benz-300-Series-250D-Wagon/202744862026?hash=item2f3489154a:g:584AAOSwm3ldPOeg


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Re: [MBZ] Cahrs

[Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes]

It could still be a rod bender.  Looks Ok but price needs to be around 
$2500 maybe.


On 7/28/2019 6:48 PM, Dwight Giles via Mercedes wrote:

At that mileage i guess the 350SDL is not a rodbender??

Dwight Giles Jr.
Wickford RI

On Sun, Jul 28, 2019, 6:59 PM Frederick Moir via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:


1991 Mercedes diesel 350SDL Florida car 186000 miles no rust

https://boston.craigslist.org/gbs/cto/6942070219.html
240D Mercedes 1984 - Body/Parts

https://nh.craigslist.org/cto/6943981823.html
--
Fred Moir
Lynn MA
Diesel preferred
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Re: [MBZ] OT lawnmower engine

[Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes]

Order a brand new carb for $17.88 from the isle of large women.

On 7/28/2019 3:06 PM, Dan Penoff via Mercedes wrote:

I can see that.

-D



On Jul 28, 2019, at 3:54 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes 
 wrote:

As cheap as a carb is for one of these I don't think its even worth trying to 
fix the one on it, just replace it.

On 7/28/2019 2:33 PM, Dan Penoff via Mercedes wrote:

I think the previous diagnosis was probably spot on. The float in the 
carburetor is stuck open. Either open the carb and repair the float or replace 
the carb.

-D



On Jul 28, 2019, at 3:29 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes 
 wrote:

So I drained nearly 3/4 of a gallon of gas out of the crank case then filled it 
with oil.  I pulled the spark plug and gas poured out of it.  Cranked it over 
with the plug out and blew the rest of the gas out.  Put the plug back in and 
engine now turns over and sounds fine but still wont start.  Carb is probalby 
stuck full open or something.  Is there any reason I should not just go ahead 
and spend $20 to buy a new carb and see what happens?

On 7/27/2019 6:46 PM, Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes wrote:

As it turns out he installed a fuel shutoff valve because he was having 
problems with fuel draining into the crank case when it sets. So what he would 
do is close the valve then let it run till it ran out of fuel. I’m wondering if 
the last time he used it he forgot to shut the valve. In any case I belief the 
best course of action is to drain the crank case and refill, pull the plug and 
blow out the fuel then see if it starts. If all is good then I will address the 
carb.

Sent from my iPhone


On Jul 27, 2019, at 6:24 PM, Scott Ritchey via Mercedes  
wrote:

Exactly.  Happened to my edger.  Yes; replace oil.  You can get a carb rebuild 
kit that includes the rubber washer that seals against the needle valve but 
replacing the carb (with new) is a better option, IMO.  Google mower model or 
look on eBay.  I rebuilt twice before I replaced the whole carb (which didn't 
cost much more than the kit).


-Original Message-
From: Mitch Haley

Stuck float, debris in the needle seat area, etc, would pour it in until the 
fuel
level was below the carburetor.

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Re: [MBZ] OT lawnmower engine

[Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes]

As cheap as a carb is for one of these I don't think its even worth 
trying to fix the one on it, just replace it.


On 7/28/2019 2:33 PM, Dan Penoff via Mercedes wrote:

I think the previous diagnosis was probably spot on. The float in the 
carburetor is stuck open. Either open the carb and repair the float or replace 
the carb.

-D



On Jul 28, 2019, at 3:29 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes 
 wrote:

So I drained nearly 3/4 of a gallon of gas out of the crank case then filled it 
with oil.  I pulled the spark plug and gas poured out of it.  Cranked it over 
with the plug out and blew the rest of the gas out.  Put the plug back in and 
engine now turns over and sounds fine but still wont start.  Carb is probalby 
stuck full open or something.  Is there any reason I should not just go ahead 
and spend $20 to buy a new carb and see what happens?

On 7/27/2019 6:46 PM, Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes wrote:

As it turns out he installed a fuel shutoff valve because he was having 
problems with fuel draining into the crank case when it sets. So what he would 
do is close the valve then let it run till it ran out of fuel. I’m wondering if 
the last time he used it he forgot to shut the valve. In any case I belief the 
best course of action is to drain the crank case and refill, pull the plug and 
blow out the fuel then see if it starts. If all is good then I will address the 
carb.

Sent from my iPhone


On Jul 27, 2019, at 6:24 PM, Scott Ritchey via Mercedes  
wrote:

Exactly.  Happened to my edger.  Yes; replace oil.  You can get a carb rebuild 
kit that includes the rubber washer that seals against the needle valve but 
replacing the carb (with new) is a better option, IMO.  Google mower model or 
look on eBay.  I rebuilt twice before I replaced the whole carb (which didn't 
cost much more than the kit).


-Original Message-
From: Mitch Haley

Stuck float, debris in the needle seat area, etc, would pour it in until the 
fuel
level was below the carburetor.

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Re: [MBZ] OT lawnmower engine

[Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes]

So I drained nearly 3/4 of a gallon of gas out of the crank case then 
filled it with oil.  I pulled the spark plug and gas poured out of it.  
Cranked it over with the plug out and blew the rest of the gas out.  Put 
the plug back in and engine now turns over and sounds fine but still 
wont start.  Carb is probalby stuck full open or something.  Is there 
any reason I should not just go ahead and spend $20 to buy a new carb 
and see what happens?


On 7/27/2019 6:46 PM, Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes wrote:

As it turns out he installed a fuel shutoff valve because he was having 
problems with fuel draining into the crank case when it sets. So what he would 
do is close the valve then let it run till it ran out of fuel. I’m wondering if 
the last time he used it he forgot to shut the valve. In any case I belief the 
best course of action is to drain the crank case and refill, pull the plug and 
blow out the fuel then see if it starts. If all is good then I will address the 
carb.

Sent from my iPhone


On Jul 27, 2019, at 6:24 PM, Scott Ritchey via Mercedes  
wrote:

Exactly.  Happened to my edger.  Yes; replace oil.  You can get a carb rebuild 
kit that includes the rubber washer that seals against the needle valve but 
replacing the carb (with new) is a better option, IMO.  Google mower model or 
look on eBay.  I rebuilt twice before I replaced the whole carb (which didn't 
cost much more than the kit).


-Original Message-
From: Mitch Haley

Stuck float, debris in the needle seat area, etc, would pour it in until the 
fuel
level was below the carburetor.

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Re: [MBZ] FB Group Does Kleb Well

[Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes]

I have seen some of the dumbest questions asked over there.  Some are so 
dumb that if you have to ask the question then you should not be 
operating a car.


On 7/28/2019 1:29 PM, Buggered Benzmail via Mercedes wrote:

Turn up the IP. (What’s an IP?)

--FT
Sent from iPhone


On Jul 28, 2019, at 1:00 PM, Dan Penoff via Mercedes  
wrote:

Sold his W124 diesel. Can’t wait to see it with a hood stack, rolling coal.

-D



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