Re: [MBZ] '83 300D winter heat generation
On 3/28/06, Jim Cathey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > > I expect to be underemployed this summer and spend a lot of time > > Catheying. > > I'm a verb! > > -- Jim Cathey 1. (v.t.) To repair, restore, rebuild, or otherwise revitalize [old machinery, particularly that which has been abandoned, neglected, or thought beyond salvation], in the most frugal, effective, and ingenious way possible. "I Catheyed the tach amp with some microwave metal and Shoe Goo. That was 12,000 miles ago and it's still working just fine." 2. (v.i.) To behave as in 1, especially as an ongoing practice of life. "I finally moved into a big place with a barn, and now I can Cathey all I want without SWMBA getting upset." Also Catheyed, Catheyfied (adj.) Repaired as in 1 [of machinery], especially when done with loving attention and pride of workmanship. "That seller is on crack if he thinks that 220D is worth more than $500. Look at the sloppy job on those headlight housings! It hasn't been Catheyed, that's for sure." ;) Alex Chamberlain '87 300D Turbo '93 Isuzu Trooper
Re: [MBZ] '83 300D winter heat generation
I expect to be underemployed this summer and spend a lot of time Catheying. I'm a verb! -- Jim
Re: [MBZ] '83 300D winter heat generation
On 3/27/06, Marshall Booth <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > Common cause of the 124 heating system misbehaving is the coolant level > being a little low OR the aspirator fan (located to the right side of > the glove box) or the cabin temp sensor misbehaving. In addition, cold > solder joints or dirty switch contacts in the pushbutton box can cause > numerous glitches. > Unfortunately for me, I've ruled out the first three of those. Next is to disassemble the control unit and touch up the solder joints, but that won't happen for a few months yet. (I expect to be underemployed this summer and spend a lot of time Catheying.) On the other hand, does anyone have any experience with the rebuilt control units sold by Rusty, Performance Products, and others? Worth the money for the time they save over rebuilding my own, keeping in mind that I have a brown thumb with electronics? Alex Chamberlain '87 300D Turbo '93 Isuzu Trooper
Re: [MBZ] '83 300D winter heat generation
On Mar 26, 2006, at 9:39 AM, Jim Cathey wrote: It's what seems to work best at eliminating that nasty air bubble in the head. Make sure you install the thermostat correctly with the air bleed hole (or jiggle valve) up. -- Jim I pull the temp sensor, its pretty high up toward the front of the engine. Johnny B. I Mac Therefore I am
Re: [MBZ] '83 300D winter heat generation
Jim Cathey wrote: Yeah, I've heard this elsewhere too... "cause trouble" is an understatement, more like "destroy the control unit." It depends on the vintage. I think some later ones are protected against damage, though will still act funny. The regulator that "protects" the '87 and later climate control circuits WILL burn up if the pump isn't repaired pretty soon. That's the reason for the fuse! Also the regulator shuts off the aux pump AND the blower motor when the combined current drain exceeds the design value! Marshall -- Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions) "der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED] '87 300TD 182Kmi, '84 190D 2.2 229Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 237kmi
Re: [MBZ] '83 300D winter heat generation
Hmm, would happen to be the motor looking thing up in the right front fender right behind the headlights? Seems like I recall there being something there that I was thinking might be that pump... Thanks! Levi Jim Cathey wrote: So is it doing more harm than good if in there and seized? Or is there some sort of bypass so it's just not helping, but not hindering either? The seized motor current can cause trouble with the ACC system, but I'm told that it doesn't impede coolant flow too badly. It's just a simple impeller pump, so it flows through OK even when stopped. -- Jim ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
Re: [MBZ] '83 300D winter heat generation
Yeah, I've heard this elsewhere too... "cause trouble" is an understatement, more like "destroy the control unit." It depends on the vintage. I think some later ones are protected against damage, though will still act funny. -- Jim
Re: [MBZ] '83 300D winter heat generation
That's what I was looking to hear (and about what I figured, but I wanted to hear it for sure, since I'm not used to the gauge consistently being at these temp ranges) Thanks! Levi Marshall Booth wrote: Levi Smith wrote: OK, so I took a couple trips last night and have a new question... What is correct operating temperature range? I'm sitting at about 90-100C even at around 40F outside temp now. Which I guess might be OK, I'm just not used to seeing it quite that high and wondering if it will stay at that level once it gets warmer out. Are the temps safe all the way up to 120C? Levi In other words... "when do I need to worry about overheating"? If the cooling system is working, you don't have to worry about over heating. The thermostat PREVENT active cooling until the temp reaches 80-85 C. Then it starts to open and slowly opens until the temp reaches about 94 when the thermostat is fully open. Under most conditions the temp will remain between 85-95 all the time, summer and winter. That's NORMAL. The engine fan comes on at about 100 C. The purpose of the system is to keep the temp within the 85-100 range. No damage will be done until the coolant starts to boil. With the coolant an approved mix of antifreeze and water and with the system pressurized as intended, temps up and even above 120 are NO problem (but start to make me nervous). Temps can be expected to exceed 100 under full load climbing a LONG hill, but as long as they drop as soon as the load is lifted when you crest the hill and never exceed 120, there is nothing to be concerned about. They will also exceed 100 in stop and go summer city driving with the AC cranking, but as long as they remain below 120 no harm should be done. Marshall
Re: [MBZ] '83 300D winter heat generation
Levi Smith wrote: OK, so I took a couple trips last night and have a new question... What is correct operating temperature range? I'm sitting at about 90-100C even at around 40F outside temp now. Which I guess might be OK, I'm just not used to seeing it quite that high and wondering if it will stay at that level once it gets warmer out. Are the temps safe all the way up to 120C? Levi In other words... "when do I need to worry about overheating"? If the cooling system is working, you don't have to worry about over heating. The thermostat PREVENT active cooling until the temp reaches 80-85 C. Then it starts to open and slowly opens until the temp reaches about 94 when the thermostat is fully open. Under most conditions the temp will remain between 85-95 all the time, summer and winter. That's NORMAL. The engine fan comes on at about 100 C. The purpose of the system is to keep the temp within the 85-100 range. No damage will be done until the coolant starts to boil. With the coolant an approved mix of antifreeze and water and with the system pressurized as intended, temps up and even above 120 are NO problem (but start to make me nervous). Temps can be expected to exceed 100 under full load climbing a LONG hill, but as long as they drop as soon as the load is lifted when you crest the hill and never exceed 120, there is nothing to be concerned about. They will also exceed 100 in stop and go summer city driving with the AC cranking, but as long as they remain below 120 no harm should be done. Marshall -- Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions) "der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED] '87 300TD 182Kmi, '84 190D 2.2 229Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 237kmi
Re: [MBZ] '83 300D winter heat generation
Correct me if I am wrong but I believe the "start to worry point" is anything above 100*C. Mike PS: Howdy "Neighbor"How's the weather on your mountain? - Original Message - From: "Levi Smith" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Monday, March 27, 2006 8:04 AM Subject: Re: [MBZ] '83 300D winter heat generation OK, so I took a couple trips last night and have a new question... What is correct operating temperature range? I'm sitting at about 90-100C even at around 40F outside temp now. Which I guess might be OK, I'm just not used to seeing it quite that high and wondering if it will stay at that level once it gets warmer out. Are the temps safe all the way up to 120C? Levi In other words... "when do I need to worry about overheating"? Curt Raymond wrote: I know others have a different proceedure but back before I knew better on my 300TD I filled just through the bottle but I left the overflow thing on the top of the radiator disconnected and had EXCELLENT results. I filled slowly with the car off and once I had as much as I thought I could fit in I started the engine and let it warm up. Heater on of course. Then as it ran the bottle would empty and I'd keep topping it up. After maybe 5 minutes it was pretty well burped. I put the overflow hose back on and took it for a short ride with the cap loose. Added one more time, then capped it. The next couple days I watched and added maybe once more. Worked slick. -Curt Date: Sun, 26 Mar 2006 09:24:00 -0500 From: Levi Smith <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [MBZ] '83 300D winter heat generation To: Mercedes Discussion List <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed Hmm, ok then, whereabouts is the thermostat located? I can probably find that much in the manual, but here's my bigger question: What's the proper procedure for filling/bleeding the coolant system? I'm not used to the radiator cap being on the overflow bottle, and it doesn't seem like trying to add coolant there (other than occasional topping off) works too well. I believe last time I disconnected the upper radiator hose to fill. Is this what you're supposed to do? Thanks! Levi - New Yahoo! Messenger with Voice. Call regular phones from your PC for low, low rates. ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
Re: [MBZ] '83 300D winter heat generation
OK, so I took a couple trips last night and have a new question... What is correct operating temperature range? I'm sitting at about 90-100C even at around 40F outside temp now. Which I guess might be OK, I'm just not used to seeing it quite that high and wondering if it will stay at that level once it gets warmer out. Are the temps safe all the way up to 120C? Levi In other words... "when do I need to worry about overheating"? Curt Raymond wrote: I know others have a different proceedure but back before I knew better on my 300TD I filled just through the bottle but I left the overflow thing on the top of the radiator disconnected and had EXCELLENT results. I filled slowly with the car off and once I had as much as I thought I could fit in I started the engine and let it warm up. Heater on of course. Then as it ran the bottle would empty and I'd keep topping it up. After maybe 5 minutes it was pretty well burped. I put the overflow hose back on and took it for a short ride with the cap loose. Added one more time, then capped it. The next couple days I watched and added maybe once more. Worked slick. -Curt Date: Sun, 26 Mar 2006 09:24:00 -0500 From: Levi Smith <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [MBZ] '83 300D winter heat generation To: Mercedes Discussion List <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed Hmm, ok then, whereabouts is the thermostat located? I can probably find that much in the manual, but here's my bigger question: What's the proper procedure for filling/bleeding the coolant system? I'm not used to the radiator cap being on the overflow bottle, and it doesn't seem like trying to add coolant there (other than occasional topping off) works too well. I believe last time I disconnected the upper radiator hose to fill. Is this what you're supposed to do? Thanks! Levi - New Yahoo! Messenger with Voice. Call regular phones from your PC for low, low rates. ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
Re: [MBZ] '83 300D winter heat generation
On 3/26/06, Jim Cathey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > > So is it doing more harm than good if in there and seized? Or is > > there some > > sort of bypass so it's just not helping, but not hindering either? > > The seized motor current can cause trouble with the ACC system, Yeah, I've heard this elsewhere too... "cause trouble" is an understatement, more like "destroy the control unit." An easy prophylactic fix is to put an inline fuse in the secondary pump power circuit---3A, I think. Should be standard procedure with any new-to-you 124. Of course this doesn't explain why my ACC just started acting like the pump has failed (hunting cabin temp at idle but working fine at speed), but the fuse is intact. :( Alex Chamberlain '87 300D Turbo '93 Isuzu Trooper
Re: [MBZ] '83 300D winter heat generation
I know others have a different proceedure but back before I knew better on my 300TD I filled just through the bottle but I left the overflow thing on the top of the radiator disconnected and had EXCELLENT results. I filled slowly with the car off and once I had as much as I thought I could fit in I started the engine and let it warm up. Heater on of course. Then as it ran the bottle would empty and I'd keep topping it up. After maybe 5 minutes it was pretty well burped. I put the overflow hose back on and took it for a short ride with the cap loose. Added one more time, then capped it. The next couple days I watched and added maybe once more. Worked slick. -Curt Date: Sun, 26 Mar 2006 09:24:00 -0500 From: Levi Smith <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [MBZ] '83 300D winter heat generation To: Mercedes Discussion List <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed Hmm, ok then, whereabouts is the thermostat located? I can probably find that much in the manual, but here's my bigger question: What's the proper procedure for filling/bleeding the coolant system? I'm not used to the radiator cap being on the overflow bottle, and it doesn't seem like trying to add coolant there (other than occasional topping off) works too well. I believe last time I disconnected the upper radiator hose to fill. Is this what you're supposed to do? Thanks! Levi - New Yahoo! Messenger with Voice. Call regular phones from your PC for low, low rates. From [EMAIL PROTECTED] Mon Mar 27 01:07:00 2006 Received: from nproxy.gmail.com ([64.233.182.187]) by server5.arterytc5.net with esmtp (Exim 4.52) id 1FNgCC-0003fp-BN for [EMAIL PROTECTED]; Mon, 27 Mar 2006 01:07:00 + Received: by nproxy.gmail.com with SMTP id m19so766355nfc for <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; Sun, 26 Mar 2006 17:06:57 -0800 (PST) DomainKey-Signature: a=rsa-sha1; q=dns; c=nofws; s=beta; d=gmail.com; h=received:message-id:date:from:to:subject:in-reply-to:mime-version:content-type:references; b=OoE/BymrQQHmyfBYQ44kxIQZvSZcmrfQLaJ55CdtXJhpGIdl5T87i4JHywKvna3JI964g3weWrTnW0NuHcQacF3Zx9KnIbphDTUQqD5qBGhI1HOtYcb1954TxJXh+HvC4fOi9HJJbeZ/YnkUvUTsIp2F31+ECohk7KzUrVRuBR8= Received: by 10.49.40.11 with SMTP id s11mr1407641nfj; Sun, 26 Mar 2006 17:06:57 -0800 (PST) Received: by 10.48.206.4 with HTTP; Sun, 26 Mar 2006 17:06:57 -0800 (PST) Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Date: Sun, 26 Mar 2006 20:06:57 -0500 From: "Sunil Hari" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> In-Reply-To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> MIME-Version: 1.0 References: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> X-Antivirus-Scanner: Clean mail though you should still use an Antivirus Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Content-Disposition: inline X-Content-Filtered-By: Mailman/MimeDel 2.1.6 Subject: Re: [MBZ] I LOVE the color X-BeenThere: [EMAIL PROTECTED] X-Mailman-Version: 2.1.6 Precedence: list Reply-To: Mercedes Discussion List <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> List-Id: Mercedes Discussion List List-Unsubscribe: <http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net>, <mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]> List-Archive: <http://striplin.net/pipermail/mercedes_striplin.net> List-Post: <mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]> List-Help: <mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]> List-Subscribe: <http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net>, <mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]> X-List-Received-Date: Mon, 27 Mar 2006 01:07:00 - Oh my god. I want it. I want it like Michael Jackson wants a 7-year-old boy. On 3/26/06, Kaleb C. Striplin <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > > http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1981-Mercedes-Benz-300-Turbo-Diesel-No-Res= erve_W0QQitemZ4625892934QQcategoryZ6330QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem > -- > Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK > 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D, > 84 190D 2.2, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D, > 76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 72 250C, 69 250 > http://www.striplin.net > > ___ > http://www.striplin.net > For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ > For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] > > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: > http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net > -- Sunil Hari 1992 300D 2.5T - 286Kmi. [EMAIL PROTECTED] 513-205-7474
Re: [MBZ] '83 300D winter heat generation
So is it doing more harm than good if in there and seized? Or is there some sort of bypass so it's just not helping, but not hindering either? The seized motor current can cause trouble with the ACC system, but I'm told that it doesn't impede coolant flow too badly. It's just a simple impeller pump, so it flows through OK even when stopped. -- Jim
Re: [MBZ] '83 300D winter heat generation
So is it doing more harm than good if in there and seized? Or is there some sort of bypass so it's just not helping, but not hindering either? Thanks! Levi On 3/26/06, Jim Cathey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > > Oh yeah, one other thing. Did I hear that there's an electric water > > pump in the heater circuit that if failed would cause my heat to be > > near > > non-existent at idle, but revving the engine brings on the heat? (It > > seems to stay warm for at least a little while afterwards). > > There is. It often freezes up when it gets old. > > -- Jim > > > ___ > http://www.striplin.net > For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ > For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] > > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: > http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net >
Re: [MBZ] '83 300D winter heat generation
Oh yeah, one other thing. Did I hear that there's an electric water pump in the heater circuit that if failed would cause my heat to be near non-existent at idle, but revving the engine brings on the heat? (It seems to stay warm for at least a little while afterwards). There is. It often freezes up when it gets old. -- Jim
Re: [MBZ] '83 300D winter heat generation
Well, I got the old thermostat out. It was closed. Brought it in to test it. It seemed to work... Mostly... Once it was open, I thought it looked like the lower area of the rod that the valve slides on was rusty or some such thing, and tried to feel it with a knife (didn't feel like sticking my hand in 180F water) and it seemed like it was rough. Let it cool back down and it closed, but not quite fully. It seemed like overall it moved slower than the other two I had, and it didn't seem to fully close on it's own. Looks like for some reason that center rod got rusty or some such thing and kept it from sliding as well as it should. Anyway, I replaced it with one of the spares (I used the German one, but with the "double ring" rubber bit from the original), and I have yet to drive it, but starting it up and idling/revving it does appear that it's working better. I was seeing above 80C and holding up there, which I don't recall it doing except in the summer, and I'm not sure it was as quick/steady even then. Definitely made the heater warmer as well. Oh yeah, one other thing. Did I hear that there's an electric water pump in the heater circuit that if failed would cause my heat to be near non-existent at idle, but revving the engine brings on the heat? (It seems to stay warm for at least a little while afterwards). Thanks! Levi Jim Cathey wrote: I was wondering if someone who lives in a colder area could confirm for me whether or not something around the vintage of my 83' 300D should maintain temps even in winter? Of course. Unless... Also worthwhile to note that I have a greasecar kit installed, so I do have another 15-20' of heater line, heating a 15 gallon tank of oil, and there's probably a 6' length of those lines that runs directly under the car out in the open, so I would imagine this all works effectively as a second radiator to some degree. I would think to more than a small degree. Is there any way you can block the coolant flow to the greaser setup for a test? Your symptoms certainly sound like a bad thermostat, but the heater loop (and friends) bypasses this and if it's too efficient at sucking heat out of the engine you would see your symptom. Of course, both factors could be at work here. Certainly a new thermostat shouldn't hurt, but your theory could be right too. I for one am curious because I have this pipe dream about 'greasing' the 200D Frankenheap, and if there's not enough engine heat for winters it's a factor I would like to know about! (Then I have visions about running the exhaust pipe through the middle of the grease tank...) topping off) works too well. I believe last time I disconnected the upper radiator hose to fill. Is this what you're supposed to do? It's what seems to work best at eliminating that nasty air bubble in the head. Make sure you install the thermostat correctly with the air bleed hole (or jiggle valve) up. -- Jim ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
Re: [MBZ] '83 300D winter heat generation
OK, took a look at the engine, thermostat looks like an obvious location. It also appears that the thermostat gasket is rubber, so I'm hoping it's reusable. Then thought to take a look at the spare parts that came with my car and found two thermostats (and a housing no less. Looks like there's some sort of vacuum line attachment there? Can't tell what it would be for...) Anyway, just popped the thermostats in some water and sure enough it looks like they work. I have a silver one that says made in Germany which has basically just an o-ring for rubber that sits on top of the outer ring instead of on top or surrounding the outer edge like it seemed like it should. I also have a copper colored one that says Made in China (Thompson maybe?) this one has a rather large rubber ring that surrounds the outer edge, but also a large second ring protrusion off of that ring in one spot. Are either of these right? (the thermostats themselves look pretty much identical) I'll probably take mine apart this afternoon and see what it looks like I have in there and if it's open or not (or just missing entirely). Thanks! Levi Jim Cathey wrote: I was wondering if someone who lives in a colder area could confirm for me whether or not something around the vintage of my 83' 300D should maintain temps even in winter? Of course. Unless... Also worthwhile to note that I have a greasecar kit installed, so I do have another 15-20' of heater line, heating a 15 gallon tank of oil, and there's probably a 6' length of those lines that runs directly under the car out in the open, so I would imagine this all works effectively as a second radiator to some degree. I would think to more than a small degree. Is there any way you can block the coolant flow to the greaser setup for a test? Your symptoms certainly sound like a bad thermostat, but the heater loop (and friends) bypasses this and if it's too efficient at sucking heat out of the engine you would see your symptom. Of course, both factors could be at work here. Certainly a new thermostat shouldn't hurt, but your theory could be right too. I for one am curious because I have this pipe dream about 'greasing' the 200D Frankenheap, and if there's not enough engine heat for winters it's a factor I would like to know about! (Then I have visions about running the exhaust pipe through the middle of the grease tank...) topping off) works too well. I believe last time I disconnected the upper radiator hose to fill. Is this what you're supposed to do? It's what seems to work best at eliminating that nasty air bubble in the head. Make sure you install the thermostat correctly with the air bleed hole (or jiggle valve) up. -- Jim ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
Re: [MBZ] '83 300D winter heat generation
You'd be better off ordering one from http://www.buymbparts.com/ and waiting
until you have everything -
Sincerely,
Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo)
A Blood Test for your oil - www.youroil.net
For Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
Weber Carb Stuff http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
http://members.rennlist.com/my_911/Index.htm For my Paint Job Info
- Original Message -
From: "Levi Smith" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Sunday, March 26, 2006 9:41 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] '83 300D winter heat generation
OK, started looking at who has a thermostat in stock and such and have
come to my next question:
How likely am I to be able to re-use the thermostat gasket? (since no
one has one in stock that's near me that would be open today)
Just trying to determine whether or not I should take it apart today or
wait until I have a gasket.
Thanks!
Levi
John Berryman wrote:
On Mar 26, 2006, at 8:06 AM, Levi Smith wrote:
I was wondering if someone who lives in a colder area could confirm
for
me whether or not something around the vintage of my 83' 300D should
maintain temps even in winter?
Yes.
___
http://www.striplin.net
For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
Re: [MBZ] '83 300D winter heat generation
OK, started looking at who has a thermostat in stock and such and have come to my next question: How likely am I to be able to re-use the thermostat gasket? (since no one has one in stock that's near me that would be open today) Just trying to determine whether or not I should take it apart today or wait until I have a gasket. Thanks! Levi John Berryman wrote: On Mar 26, 2006, at 8:06 AM, Levi Smith wrote: I was wondering if someone who lives in a colder area could confirm for me whether or not something around the vintage of my 83' 300D should maintain temps even in winter? Yes.
Re: [MBZ] '83 300D winter heat generation
I was wondering if someone who lives in a colder area could confirm for me whether or not something around the vintage of my 83' 300D should maintain temps even in winter? Of course. Unless... Also worthwhile to note that I have a greasecar kit installed, so I do have another 15-20' of heater line, heating a 15 gallon tank of oil, and there's probably a 6' length of those lines that runs directly under the car out in the open, so I would imagine this all works effectively as a second radiator to some degree. I would think to more than a small degree. Is there any way you can block the coolant flow to the greaser setup for a test? Your symptoms certainly sound like a bad thermostat, but the heater loop (and friends) bypasses this and if it's too efficient at sucking heat out of the engine you would see your symptom. Of course, both factors could be at work here. Certainly a new thermostat shouldn't hurt, but your theory could be right too. I for one am curious because I have this pipe dream about 'greasing' the 200D Frankenheap, and if there's not enough engine heat for winters it's a factor I would like to know about! (Then I have visions about running the exhaust pipe through the middle of the grease tank...) topping off) works too well. I believe last time I disconnected the upper radiator hose to fill. Is this what you're supposed to do? It's what seems to work best at eliminating that nasty air bubble in the head. Make sure you install the thermostat correctly with the air bleed hole (or jiggle valve) up. -- Jim
Re: [MBZ] '83 300D winter heat generation
Hmm, ok then, whereabouts is the thermostat located? I can probably find that much in the manual, but here's my bigger question: What's the proper procedure for filling/bleeding the coolant system? I'm not used to the radiator cap being on the overflow bottle, and it doesn't seem like trying to add coolant there (other than occasional topping off) works too well. I believe last time I disconnected the upper radiator hose to fill. Is this what you're supposed to do? Thanks! Levi Marshall Booth wrote: Levi Smith wrote: I was wondering if someone who lives in a colder area could confirm for me whether or not something around the vintage of my 83' 300D should maintain temps even in winter? I.e. as I recall last summer I saw temps staying around 80-100C which I thought was about right. The last week or so I've been driving my 300D and the outside temps are around 20-40F. I can usually get it up to around 60C (is that the line between 40 and 80? Or is that line only like 50C?), I never saw it actually make it to 80, but it gets close if there's enough uphill driving. It's definitely effected by how much heater usage and how much flat vs. hilly terrain there is. Also worthwhile to note that I have a greasecar kit installed, so I do have another 15-20' of heater line, heating a 15 gallon tank of oil, and there's probably a 6' length of those lines that runs directly under the car out in the open, so I would imagine this all works effectively as a second radiator to some degree. I'm just wondering whether the 300D's are just more thermally efficient and don't always reach their operating temp during the winter (I'm assuming the operating temp is at or slightly above 80C?), or if this is likely indicative that I have an open or missing thermostat? (Or if the 300D is just "on-the-edge" of generating enough heat in the winter to maintain operating temps and my greasecar kit is sucking away enough heat to keep it from reaching them?) Until temps get below zero (F) the thermostat should promote engine temp to reach 80+ deg C within a few minutes of driving and temps should remain within the 80-100 deg. C. window. If temps DON'T do that, tyhen the first thing that needs attention is the thermostat. The purpose of the thermostat is to PREVENT cooling until the temp reaches 80 degrees (or a tad more). If it's stuck open, cooling starts too soon and may never reach the optimal level in city driving or unless the engine is almost fully loaded. Suboptimal temps result in increased engine wear and excessive fuel consumption. Marshall
Re: [MBZ] '83 300D winter heat generation
On Mar 26, 2006, at 8:06 AM, Levi Smith wrote: I was wondering if someone who lives in a colder area could confirm for me whether or not something around the vintage of my 83' 300D should maintain temps even in winter? Yes. I.e. as I recall last summer I saw temps staying around 80-100C which I thought was about right. The last week or so I've been driving my 300D and the outside temps are around 20-40F. I can usually get it up to around 60C (is that the line between 40 and 80? Or is that line only like 50C?), I never saw it actually make it to 80, but it gets close if there's enough uphill driving. It's definitely effected by how much heater usage and how much flat vs. hilly terrain there is. You need a new thermostat. Also worthwhile to note that I have a greasecar kit installed, so I do have another 15-20' of heater line, heating a 15 gallon tank of oil, and there's probably a 6' length of those lines that runs directly under the car out in the open, so I would imagine this all works effectively as a second radiator to some degree. It should reach 80C, see above. I'm just wondering whether the 300D's are just more thermally efficient and don't always reach their operating temp during the winter (I'm assuming the operating temp is at or slightly above 80C?), or if this is likely indicative that I have an open or missing thermostat? (Or if the 300D is just "on-the-edge" of generating enough heat in the winter to maintain operating temps and my greasecar kit is sucking away enough heat to keep it from reaching them?) You still need a new thermostat. Regardless of anything added on, the engine coolant temperature should reach about 80 degrees C. You'll get better performance/efficiency when the engine runs at normal operating temp. Thanks! Levi ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net Johnny B. I Mac Therefore I am
Re: [MBZ] '83 300D winter heat generation
Levi Smith wrote: I was wondering if someone who lives in a colder area could confirm for me whether or not something around the vintage of my 83' 300D should maintain temps even in winter? I.e. as I recall last summer I saw temps staying around 80-100C which I thought was about right. The last week or so I've been driving my 300D and the outside temps are around 20-40F. I can usually get it up to around 60C (is that the line between 40 and 80? Or is that line only like 50C?), I never saw it actually make it to 80, but it gets close if there's enough uphill driving. It's definitely effected by how much heater usage and how much flat vs. hilly terrain there is. Also worthwhile to note that I have a greasecar kit installed, so I do have another 15-20' of heater line, heating a 15 gallon tank of oil, and there's probably a 6' length of those lines that runs directly under the car out in the open, so I would imagine this all works effectively as a second radiator to some degree. I'm just wondering whether the 300D's are just more thermally efficient and don't always reach their operating temp during the winter (I'm assuming the operating temp is at or slightly above 80C?), or if this is likely indicative that I have an open or missing thermostat? (Or if the 300D is just "on-the-edge" of generating enough heat in the winter to maintain operating temps and my greasecar kit is sucking away enough heat to keep it from reaching them?) Until temps get below zero (F) the thermostat should promote engine temp to reach 80+ deg C within a few minutes of driving and temps should remain within the 80-100 deg. C. window. If temps DON'T do that, tyhen the first thing that needs attention is the thermostat. The purpose of the thermostat is to PREVENT cooling until the temp reaches 80 degrees (or a tad more). If it's stuck open, cooling starts too soon and may never reach the optimal level in city driving or unless the engine is almost fully loaded. Suboptimal temps result in increased engine wear and excessive fuel consumption. Marshall -- Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions) "der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED] '87 300TD 182Kmi, '84 190D 2.2 229Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 237kmi
[MBZ] '83 300D winter heat generation
I was wondering if someone who lives in a colder area could confirm for me whether or not something around the vintage of my 83' 300D should maintain temps even in winter? I.e. as I recall last summer I saw temps staying around 80-100C which I thought was about right. The last week or so I've been driving my 300D and the outside temps are around 20-40F. I can usually get it up to around 60C (is that the line between 40 and 80? Or is that line only like 50C?), I never saw it actually make it to 80, but it gets close if there's enough uphill driving. It's definitely effected by how much heater usage and how much flat vs. hilly terrain there is. Also worthwhile to note that I have a greasecar kit installed, so I do have another 15-20' of heater line, heating a 15 gallon tank of oil, and there's probably a 6' length of those lines that runs directly under the car out in the open, so I would imagine this all works effectively as a second radiator to some degree. I'm just wondering whether the 300D's are just more thermally efficient and don't always reach their operating temp during the winter (I'm assuming the operating temp is at or slightly above 80C?), or if this is likely indicative that I have an open or missing thermostat? (Or if the 300D is just "on-the-edge" of generating enough heat in the winter to maintain operating temps and my greasecar kit is sucking away enough heat to keep it from reaching them?) Thanks! Levi
