Re: [MBZ] Clunky ball joint 86 W201

2008-05-27 Thread Jim Cathey
> None of the supplied sleeves will fit the top of the old ball joint to 
> press it out the bottom of the control arm (this is assuming it's the 
> same as the W124, you need to check).  Any bit of pipe that will seat 
> in the tool and fit inside the hole in the control arm will work, as 
> you don't care about the joint you are pressing out.  It's tight, make 
> sure you have the car supported well!.  Going back in the sleeves and 
> cups that come with the tool work.

The ball joint kit was on sale again at HF, so I bought it.
When I get a chance to try it, we'll see.

-- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] Clunky ball joint 86 W201

2008-04-29 Thread Hendrik & Fay
The 86 201 does not have a McPherson strut, it uses a shock absorber 
strut next to the spring. How do I know this? Because I used an internal 
spring compressor to remove the springs yesterday and I will be using an 
internal spring compressor to re-install the springs today.
Unfortunately the rear rubbers where pretty much toast, so I had to get 
the control arm fully rebuild.

Hendrik

Peter Frederick wrote:
> None of the supplied sleeves will fit the top of the old ball joint to press 
> it out the bottom of the control arm (this is assuming it's the same as the 
> W124, you need to check).  Any bit of pipe that will seat in the tool and fit 
> inside the hole in the control arm will work, as you don't care about the 
> joint you are pressing out.  It's tight, make sure you have the car supported 
> well!.  Going back in the sleeves and cups that come with the tool work.
>
> I believe the strut in the W201 will come out with the spring in place like 
> most McPhearson types do, but I don't know that for a fact.  If not, you will 
> have to use external spring compressors, which I hate (I've had one slip off 
> before).  If it comes out complete, as I expect it does, this becomes a 
> fairly easy job as suspension work goes.
>
> Peter
>
>
>
>
>   

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Re: [MBZ] Clunky ball joint 86 W201

2008-04-29 Thread Peter Frederick
None of the supplied sleeves will fit the top of the old ball joint to press it 
out the bottom of the control arm (this is assuming it's the same as the W124, 
you need to check).  Any bit of pipe that will seat in the tool and fit inside 
the hole in the control arm will work, as you don't care about the joint you 
are pressing out.  It's tight, make sure you have the car supported well!.  
Going back in the sleeves and cups that come with the tool work.

I believe the strut in the W201 will come out with the spring in place like 
most McPhearson types do, but I don't know that for a fact.  If not, you will 
have to use external spring compressors, which I hate (I've had one slip off 
before).  If it comes out complete, as I expect it does, this becomes a fairly 
easy job as suspension work goes.

Peter



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Re: [MBZ] Clunky ball joint 86 W201

2008-04-28 Thread Jim Cathey
> Not a terrible job, the tool from Harbor Freight will work if you
> make and adapter to push the old one out.

Tell me more!  I've got a 201 that needs a new joint.
I have a new Lemforder part too, but no tools.  I wasn't
interested in the solid-gold MB tool and was going to
take it to a shop, but HF prices are more my speed.  I
just didn't think it would work at all.  What kind of
adapter?  What's it look like?  Do I need the optional
adapter kit they sell for theirs?

> Internal type, which is a copy of the Klann but mucho cheapero...
> The aftermarket manual I have for the 201 chassis shows them using an
> external set of spring compressors, guess that would work if they are
> heavy duty enough but the way I figure it, by the time I have done the

The 201 had a strut, the shock is inside the spring.
You must use an external type on it.  I actually
have the real-deal Klann internal one, but I've never
had to use it yet.  I'm surprised, or else lucky so far.
I got in on the list group purchase.

-- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] Clunky ball joint 86 W201

2008-04-28 Thread Hendrik & Fay
Yes the pressing in of the ball joint is a job for an experienced 
person, from what I understand if they go in crooked the only way to get 
them out is with a gas axe.
Also you wanna be careful bashing things with a BFH, sometimes things 
end up bent or otherwise broken. Just about every decent workshop must 
have a hydraulic press to get a ball joint out.
Specially these days with insurance.
False economics, using a dangerous method to save on the cost of a 
$300-400 hydraulic press.
Imagine if the ball peen had shattered and took out his eye.

Hendrik

Rich Thomas wrote:
> On the TD I took the knuckle to a shop, an old Benz mech (I think he was 
> Italian, go figure) put the thing in a vise and put a ball peen hammer 
> round end on the BJ, then took a BFH and beat on that thing like a 
> rented mule until the BJ popped out.  Steel on steel, a bit scary.  But 
> it came out and then they used the MB press to put in the new one, on 
> which the little collar snapped off.  They ordered up a Lemforder (the 
> one I got from Rusty, was not sure of the brand, broke, I think this is 
> the right name for the good one) and they pressed that in fine.  The 
> mech said anything else was not "proper" and they had broken two presses 
> ($650 per if I recall) on cheap replacements, so their preference was 
> the Lemforder.
>
> YMMV.
>
> --R
>   
>

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Re: [MBZ] Clunky ball joint 86 W201

2008-04-28 Thread Peter Frederick
The W201/W124 ball joint is MUCH easier to replace, as it's in the  
control arm and not the steering knuckle.  The ones on W126s are a  
real pain, although my brother's came out fairly easily and pressed  
in without major problems.  Not easy, though.

Peter


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Re: [MBZ] Clunky ball joint 86 W201

2008-04-28 Thread Hendrik & Fay
Internal type, which is a copy of the Klann but mucho cheapero.
Bought it off ebay in the states.
The aftermarket manual I have for the 201 chassis shows them using an 
external set of spring compressors, guess that would work if they are 
heavy duty enough but the way I figure it, by the time I have done the 
front end and rear in the 190E + the front of the 123 I will have paid 
for the tool by not having to take the car to a workshop and pay them to 
do the whole job, plus I also save on medical expenses/damage to the 
vehicle by going the safe route.
Well I will confess that I have removed springs with a cheap set of 
external compressors but never again, not worth the risk as I have seen 
what happens when they slip off the spring.

Hendrik
the tool with tools

Mitch Haley wrote:
> Hendrik & Fay wrote:
>   
>> I have a spring compressor tool, 
>> 
>
> What kind of spring compressor tool?
>
> Mitch
>
>   

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Re: [MBZ] Clunky ball joint 86 W201

2008-04-28 Thread Mitch Haley


Hendrik & Fay wrote:
> 
> I have a spring compressor tool, 

What kind of spring compressor tool?

Mitch

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Re: [MBZ] Clunky ball joint 86 W201

2008-04-28 Thread Rich Thomas
On the TD I took the knuckle to a shop, an old Benz mech (I think he was 
Italian, go figure) put the thing in a vise and put a ball peen hammer 
round end on the BJ, then took a BFH and beat on that thing like a 
rented mule until the BJ popped out.  Steel on steel, a bit scary.  But 
it came out and then they used the MB press to put in the new one, on 
which the little collar snapped off.  They ordered up a Lemforder (the 
one I got from Rusty, was not sure of the brand, broke, I think this is 
the right name for the good one) and they pressed that in fine.  The 
mech said anything else was not "proper" and they had broken two presses 
($650 per if I recall) on cheap replacements, so their preference was 
the Lemforder.

YMMV.

--R

Hendrik & Fay wrote:
> I have a spring compressor tool, the rubber bushings still seem to be 
> pretty good.
> More than likely I'll take the control arm out and take it to a shop to 
> get the ball joint replaced.
>
> Hendrik
>
>   
>

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Re: [MBZ] Clunky ball joint 86 W201

2008-04-28 Thread Hendrik & Fay
I have a spring compressor tool, the rubber bushings still seem to be 
pretty good.
More than likely I'll take the control arm out and take it to a shop to 
get the ball joint replaced.

Hendrik

Peter Frederick wrote:
> That's pretty much the repair limit.
>
> Not a terrible job, the tool from Harbor Freight will work if you  
> make and adapter to push the old one out.
>
> Jack car and support with a jackstand under the control arm (this is  
> absolutely necessary unless you want to remove the spring).  Remove  
> strut and steering knuckle, then press the old ball joint out and the  
> new one in.  There are index marks on the new joint, install with  
> them perpendicular to the centerline (side to side rather than front  
> to rear!) as the joint is directional and will die fast if you put it  
> in wrong.  Reinstall strut and steering knuckle and you are on your way.
>
> You should replace the control arm if there is wear or play in the  
> inner pivot bushings, though -- they are very difficult to replace if  
> they are like the W124 ones, and it's much easier to just swap the  
> control arm.  That requires the MB spring compressor tool, though.
>
> Peter
>   

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Re: [MBZ] Clunky ball joint 86 W201

2008-04-28 Thread Peter Frederick
That's pretty much the repair limit.

Not a terrible job, the tool from Harbor Freight will work if you  
make and adapter to push the old one out.

Jack car and support with a jackstand under the control arm (this is  
absolutely necessary unless you want to remove the spring).  Remove  
strut and steering knuckle, then press the old ball joint out and the  
new one in.  There are index marks on the new joint, install with  
them perpendicular to the centerline (side to side rather than front  
to rear!) as the joint is directional and will die fast if you put it  
in wrong.  Reinstall strut and steering knuckle and you are on your way.

You should replace the control arm if there is wear or play in the  
inner pivot bushings, though -- they are very difficult to replace if  
they are like the W124 ones, and it's much easier to just swap the  
control arm.  That requires the MB spring compressor tool, though.

Peter


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Re: [MBZ] Clunky ball joint 86 W201

2008-04-28 Thread Jim Cathey
> The only thing I could find was the ball joint had up down
> movement of about 5mm (the right one only has about 2mm) and I am
> thinking if that is bouncing it could cause a clunking noise.
> Anyone have any input? Is there supposed to be up/down movement?

I don't think there is supposed to be any perceptible movement.

-- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] Clunky ball joint 86 W201

2008-04-28 Thread Rich Thomas
Does that car have a brake rod support?  THe connector that goes from 
the firewall to the control arm?  The ball joint in those on the 123 
wear out and give that clunk.

--R

Hendrik & Fay wrote:
> The dramas never stop, got the engine and box back in the car and after 
> adjusting the control pressure that seems all good. There was a 
> scrapping noise after reinstalling the rear wheel carrier but that was a 
> simple adjustment with a hammer on the dust shield.
> However there is still a clunking noise coming from the left front 
> wheel. I have jacked the front up and had a look to see if I could 
> determine the noise of the clunk, which only happens when going over 
> some bumps. The only thing I could find was the ball joint had up down 
> movement of about 5mm (the right one only has about 2mm) and I am 
> thinking if that is bouncing it could cause a clunking noise.
> Anyone have any input? Is there supposed to be up/down movement?
> Speaking to my Mum, she reckons that clunk has been there for years.
> The ball joint seals are still intact and there is no groaning when 
> turning the wheel or shuddering (like the ball joint is grabbing and 
> releasing).
>
> As always thanks for any and all replies.
>
> Hendrik
> who is quite pleased with himself that the engine fired up first go
>
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>   

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[MBZ] Clunky ball joint 86 W201

2008-04-27 Thread Hendrik & Fay
The dramas never stop, got the engine and box back in the car and after 
adjusting the control pressure that seems all good. There was a 
scrapping noise after reinstalling the rear wheel carrier but that was a 
simple adjustment with a hammer on the dust shield.
However there is still a clunking noise coming from the left front 
wheel. I have jacked the front up and had a look to see if I could 
determine the noise of the clunk, which only happens when going over 
some bumps. The only thing I could find was the ball joint had up down 
movement of about 5mm (the right one only has about 2mm) and I am 
thinking if that is bouncing it could cause a clunking noise.
Anyone have any input? Is there supposed to be up/down movement?
Speaking to my Mum, she reckons that clunk has been there for years.
The ball joint seals are still intact and there is no groaning when 
turning the wheel or shuddering (like the ball joint is grabbing and 
releasing).

As always thanks for any and all replies.

Hendrik
who is quite pleased with himself that the engine fired up first go

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