Re: [MBZ] Son's E320

[Jim Cathey via Mercedes]

Back already. Seemed appreciative of the free repairs.

-- Jim

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Re: [MBZ] Son's E320

[Craig via Mercedes]

On Mon, 28 Aug 2023 06:20:37 -0700 Jim Cathey via Mercedes
 wrote:

> >  swapping [W210] springs shouldn’t be a bad job with the proper
> > compressor.
> 
> Does anybody know if the Klann compressor that is used with earlier
> MB cars will work here?  I actually have one.  (Still unused.)

Sorry, I don't know.


> I like the idea of selling off the dumb-ass boy racer components to
> recoup some of the cost of repair.

Yes, that is a great idea.

BTW, when does your son return?


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] Son's E320

[Jim Cathey via Mercedes]

>  swapping [W210] springs shouldn’t be a bad job with the proper compressor.

Does anybody know if the Klann compressor that is used with earlier
MB cars will work here?  I actually have one.  (Still unused.)

I like the idea of selling off the dumb-ass boy racer components to recoup
some of the cost of repair.

-- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] Son's E320

[dan penoff.com via Mercedes]

There ‘ya go, recoup some of the costs.

I like Mitch’s thought process here.

-D

> On Aug 26, 2023, at 6:32 PM, mitch--- via Mercedes  
> wrote:
> 
> Suggested BenzWorld ad:
> Full set of Vogtland lowering springs for RWD W210, used, $150 OBO.
> 
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Re: [MBZ] Son's E320

[mitch--- via Mercedes]

Suggested BenzWorld ad:
Full set of Vogtland lowering springs for RWD W210, used, $150 OBO.

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Re: [MBZ] Son's E320

[Floyd Thursby via Mercedes]

I just finished cleaning up this 99E320 and it looks really good. 
244950miles.  This was the car I bought a few years ago for $600 and 
trans in limp mode.  Put a new conductor plate in it, some fluid and 
filter, and really did nothing else to it but a new idler pulley and belt.


Paint is about a 7 or 8, a few scratches and rock chips and a few spots 
on trim where it is peeling or getting worn but hardly noticeable.  Only 
"body" damage is the lower cladding right around the exhaust pipe below 
the rear bumper, otherwise no dings or creases anywhere.  It had been 
sitting for maybe 3-4months and I charged the battery (which is on it's 
last) and it fired up on about the 2nd spin and idled nicely, no 
clattering or ticking or anything.


Interior is in pretty good condition too, no tears in the seats but are 
showing a bit of wear in the leather.  Someone with more patience than I 
could probably do a half decent restoration on them.  Carpet is pretty 
clean, I might hit it with the extractor tomorrow and get it looking and 
smelling better. Tires have good tread but have probably timed out and 
would need to be changed at some point.  The seats won't move, I have 
another module to put in I will try to do tomorrow, getting the old one 
off is a b1tch for some reason, it should pop right off but I can't get 
the clips to release it and without the seat being raised up it is kinda 
hard to reach under it.  The AC was blowing lukecool so I will probably 
dump a half can or so into it.


Oh and the radio didn't come on though I recall it was working before.  
I'll have to look at the fuse.


I shot a vid of the exterior I will try to get uploaded, then I need to 
shoot one of the interior after I clean it.  I am going to see about 
swapping it for this 07E350 with the bad engine and they throw in some 
cash, now that I think about it I should probably just buy the E350 
outright and sell this thing or keep it as it is so nice, but I don't 
need it or drive it so there's that.  Decisions decisions...


Too bad it wasn't closer, your boy could have bought this for a lot less 
than that car and gotten a nice road trip out of it.


--FT

On 8/26/23 5:04 PM, Jim Cathey via Mercedes wrote:

Final installment:


--
--FT
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Re: [MBZ] Son's E320

[dan penoff.com via Mercedes]

I’m traveling or I would have access to my EPC, but you might want to check 
with the dealer on what a set of replacements cost. Looks like they’re $55/each 
from MB of Laredo, but the shipping would probably be ugly. Pay the premium at 
your local dealer to avoid shipping and they’ll probably end up around 
$75/each, if that.

I’m not familiar with W210 suspension that much, mainly because I’ve rarely had 
to work on it, but swapping springs shouldn’t be a bad job with the proper 
compressor.

-D

> On Aug 26, 2023, at 4:05 PM, Jim Cathey via Mercedes  
> wrote:
> 
> Final installment:
> Saturday, August 26, 2023 <>I jacked the front of the car up, which was 
> difficult because the floor jack barely would go under the lower than stock 
> car. The purple springs look intact, but are clearly not stock. They are 
> Vogtland VA 952083/952033 JFS (front) and 952082 (rear) springs. The front 
> shocks are paint-labeled "V4", and stamped with MB P/N 210 323 25 00. The MB 
> numbering makes me think they're stock. The rear shocks also appear to be 
> stock.
> Current Vogtland spring-only product for this car is the 952085 spring set, 
> about $330. It claims a 1.6" drop.
> 
> Les Schwab says:
> 
> Lowering changes the geometry of your wheel-tire fitment. If it's done 
> improperly, your car may have an alignment problem that results in premature 
> or extreme wear patterns. Even an inch-and-a-half lower suspension can cause 
> problems around corners, with slight potholes or on speed bumps.
> There is also:
> Cause premature wear on the factory shocks: Since the lowering springs and 
> shock might not match, the lowered ride height and stiffer spring rate could 
> cause the shocks to wear out prematurely.
> and:
> ...there is no worse suspension than no suspension at all, so limiting 
> compression travel is one of the worst things you can do for your ride 
> quality. With increased frequency of bottoming your shock out, you are likely 
> to cause your shock to prematurely wear out and become completely ineffective.
> See: Lowering Springs And Factory Shocks: A Doomed Romance 
> 
> So, it looks like cheap-o boy racer did the least thing you can do, 
> installing lowering springs, which can be about the worst thing you can do:
> 
> Stiffer ride.
> Increased road noise.
> Potential tire rubbing on fenders when cornering, especially if bumpy.
> Less ground clearance, vs speed bumps, ruts, rocks, washboarding, potholes, 
> snow and ice.
> Towing and jacking potentially difficult or impossible.
> Decreased grip when cornering due to camber problems, spring rate not 
> matching shock absorber characteristics.
> Accelerated and/or uneven tire wear due to camber error.
> Bottoming out suspension on bumps due to decreased suspension travel, 
> potential to bend car if severe enough.
> Increased scraping on driveway inclines, parking lot entrances.
> Decreased shock absorber life.
> But, I guess it looks cooler or something.
> Automotive suspension design is actually quite involved engineering, and is 
> neither effectively nor safely done by hacks!
> 
> Otherwise the underneath generally looks good. The exhaust system looks stock 
> and intact, nothing overtly missing or damaged.
> 
> The vanity mirror cover I procured is slightly the wrong size. So, no joy 
> there.
> 
> -- Jim
> 
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> 
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> 
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Re: [MBZ] Son's E320

[Jim Cathey via Mercedes]

Final installment:
Saturday, August 26, 2023 <>I jacked the front of the car up, which was 
difficult because the floor jack barely would go under the lower than stock 
car. The purple springs look intact, but are clearly not stock. They are 
Vogtland VA 952083/952033 JFS (front) and 952082 (rear) springs. The front 
shocks are paint-labeled "V4", and stamped with MB P/N 210 323 25 00. The MB 
numbering makes me think they're stock. The rear shocks also appear to be stock.
Current Vogtland spring-only product for this car is the 952085 spring set, 
about $330. It claims a 1.6" drop.

Les Schwab says:

Lowering changes the geometry of your wheel-tire fitment. If it's done 
improperly, your car may have an alignment problem that results in premature or 
extreme wear patterns. Even an inch-and-a-half lower suspension can cause 
problems around corners, with slight potholes or on speed bumps.
There is also:
Cause premature wear on the factory shocks: Since the lowering springs and 
shock might not match, the lowered ride height and stiffer spring rate could 
cause the shocks to wear out prematurely.
and:
...there is no worse suspension than no suspension at all, so limiting 
compression travel is one of the worst things you can do for your ride quality. 
With increased frequency of bottoming your shock out, you are likely to cause 
your shock to prematurely wear out and become completely ineffective.
See: Lowering Springs And Factory Shocks: A Doomed Romance 

So, it looks like cheap-o boy racer did the least thing you can do, installing 
lowering springs, which can be about the worst thing you can do:

Stiffer ride.
Increased road noise.
Potential tire rubbing on fenders when cornering, especially if bumpy.
Less ground clearance, vs speed bumps, ruts, rocks, washboarding, potholes, 
snow and ice.
Towing and jacking potentially difficult or impossible.
Decreased grip when cornering due to camber problems, spring rate not matching 
shock absorber characteristics.
Accelerated and/or uneven tire wear due to camber error.
Bottoming out suspension on bumps due to decreased suspension travel, potential 
to bend car if severe enough.
Increased scraping on driveway inclines, parking lot entrances.
Decreased shock absorber life.
But, I guess it looks cooler or something.
Automotive suspension design is actually quite involved engineering, and is 
neither effectively nor safely done by hacks!

Otherwise the underneath generally looks good. The exhaust system looks stock 
and intact, nothing overtly missing or damaged.

The vanity mirror cover I procured is slightly the wrong size. So, no joy there.

-- Jim

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Re: [MBZ] Son's E320

[Donald Snook via Mercedes]

Jim - you are a great Dad! 

Also, that was the most exhaustive description of how the trunk lock works! 

Donald H. Snook


> On Aug 25, 2023, at 4:37 PM, Craig  wrote:
> 
> On Fri, 25 Aug 2023 13:58:02 -0700 Jim Cathey via Mercedes
>  wrote:
> 
>> My intent is to pick him up at the airport using his car, and to pop
>> the trunk from the inside when he walks up. Surprise!
> 
> Indeed! Congratulations on all of the good work.
> 
> 
> Craig
> 
> 

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Re: [MBZ] Son's E320

[Kevin Kraly via Mercedes]

Sehr gut!

Sent from my iPhone

> On Aug 25, 2023, at 4:58 PM, Jim Cathey via Mercedes  
> wrote:
> 
> My son's away visiting his girlfriend across the country, leaving his car 
> here.
> While it's not in service I decided to try a few things:
> 
> Wednesday, August 23, 2023 <>I removed and took apart the trunk lock. It was 
> very corroded and sludgy inside, it looked like there was vaseline packed in 
> there. It was the corrosion preventing the key from inserting, some of the 
> wafers simply wouldn't slide. The secret to disassembly is the internal 
> snap-ring at the back of the lock cylinder, which holds it all together. 
> After that it was careful wafer freeing and a minor filing to get the 
> corrosion off of the wafers.  I used a lot of brake cleaner to sluice out all 
> the dirt, grease, and etc.
> Then correct (graphite) lubrication, and reassembly. This all took a lot more 
> time than it should have, mostly because of unfamiliarity. The trunk lock 
> works much as in older cars, except there is not a mechanical 2-state tab 
> that lets the trunk be opened manually when the car is unlocked. On this car 
> that is done electro-pneumatically, via the locking system computer. Summary:
> 
> The trunk can be locked, mechanically, so that it can only be opened with the 
> key, by turning it hard to the right and removing it. (Valet function, you 
> remove the mechanical key from the fob and keep it, and give the valet the 
> fob. They can't get into either the trunk or the glovebox if those have been 
> locked with the key. Also useful if you want to secure the trunk contents 
> against a potential thief bashing in a window and using the interior trunk 
> release.)
> 
> The trunk can be unlocked, mechanically, by turning the key hard to the left, 
> reversing the above condition. (The key is spring-loaded and cannot be left 
> in that position, it'll move back to the center position afterwards.) The key 
> can be removed in the center position, which is 'normal', or the right 
> position, which is locked.
> 
> The trunk can be opened, mechanically, by turning the key hard to the left 
> and then pushing in. This will work even if the car is completely dead.
> 
> With the lock in the center position, 'normal', the trunk can be opened 
> electro-pneumatically, with one of:
> 
> Interior switch;
> 
> Key fob;
> 
> Pushing in the trunk lock, if the car is unlocked.
> 
> All of these (4.X) require the car to be 'alive', with no electrical or 
> pneumatic faults in the locking system.
> This car, at acquisition, could only do the very last two of these. At the 
> moment it's only 4.1 that it can't do.
> I then removed the interior trunk release switch, by pulling up on the panel. 
> Now the reason for the extreme expense of this (also apparently NLA) switch 
> became apparent: it is all the switches! Windows, mirror, trunk release, 
> child switch, airbag indicator, all in one large assembly. P/N 210 821 39 51. 
> Good news, and bad news. Good news: yes, the C330 trunk switch mechanicals I 
> scored at the junkyard are the same, right down to the numbers molded into 
> them. Bad news: it's the housing, containing the hinge pins, that is broken, 
> not the moving parts. The housing is very large and specific to this 
> particular switch assembly.
> 
> So I got out the Shoe Goo, and started trying to fix the breaks. I'm trying 
> to splint the breaks using sheet metal. If there's room for the necessary 
> splints. Being a hinge it's a high-stress point, simple glue will not be 
> sufficient.
> 
> Thursday, August 24, 2023 <>After some filing the splint works, and the 
> pivoting piece can still move. Now for the other side, which is entirely 
> missing the plastic double-ended hinge pin. (Broken out of the housing, and 
> missing.)
> After some thought I got a piece of 12ga copper wire and started hammering it 
> down in diameter on one end until it fit into the holes in the pivoting 
> pieces. I then cut off a bit of about the right length, and Shoe-Gooed it 
> into place centered in the housing. One plastic piece will pivot on the 
> inside nub, and one on the outside nub.
> 
> Friday, August 25, 2023 <>After some careful filing to make the new copper 
> hinge nubs the right length I snapped the two moving plastic pieces of the 
> switch into place. Mechanically it seems OK again, though I shall have to 
> caution Daniel to be very careful with it, as I'm sure it's not very strong.
> I installed it in the car, and it works perfectly. Now all the trunk 
> functions are correct.
> 
> The S.O.S. switch was broken, and falling down out of the headliner. I cut up 
> a large paperclip and used its pieces to secure the flip-down red cover, and 
> to secure the switch body into the headliner. Very ghetto, but definitely 
> better than before.
> 
> I used Goo Gone to clean off the door handles and such that were grimy. A 
> little better looking inside.
> 
> Three of the jack point covers were in the ashtray, an

Re: [MBZ] Son's E320

[Craig via Mercedes]

On Fri, 25 Aug 2023 13:58:02 -0700 Jim Cathey via Mercedes
 wrote:

> My intent is to pick him up at the airport using his car, and to pop
> the trunk from the inside when he walks up. Surprise!

Indeed! Congratulations on all of the good work.


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] Son's E320

[dan penoff.com via Mercedes]

You have to report on his reaction!

Yes, the W210 center (lower) console switches are part of an “assembly” that 
you’ve found everything mounted to. A really lousy design.

As is the trunk release button, which should really be renamed as a “pull”. The 
unusual mechanics required to operate this, along with the two-Mississippi 
delay before it releases, causes the uninformed operator to lift more/harder, 
which ultimately breaks the switch, typically the little pivots the button pins 
rotate on.

-D

> On Aug 25, 2023, at 4:58 PM, Jim Cathey via Mercedes  
> wrote:
> 
> My son's away visiting his girlfriend across the country, leaving his car 
> here.
> While it's not in service I decided to try a few things:
> 
> Wednesday, August 23, 2023 <>I removed and took apart the trunk lock. It was 
> very corroded and sludgy inside, it looked like there was vaseline packed in 
> there. It was the corrosion preventing the key from inserting, some of the 
> wafers simply wouldn't slide. The secret to disassembly is the internal 
> snap-ring at the back of the lock cylinder, which holds it all together. 
> After that it was careful wafer freeing and a minor filing to get the 
> corrosion off of the wafers.  I used a lot of brake cleaner to sluice out all 
> the dirt, grease, and etc.
> Then correct (graphite) lubrication, and reassembly. This all took a lot more 
> time than it should have, mostly because of unfamiliarity. The trunk lock 
> works much as in older cars, except there is not a mechanical 2-state tab 
> that lets the trunk be opened manually when the car is unlocked. On this car 
> that is done electro-pneumatically, via the locking system computer. Summary:
> 
> The trunk can be locked, mechanically, so that it can only be opened with the 
> key, by turning it hard to the right and removing it. (Valet function, you 
> remove the mechanical key from the fob and keep it, and give the valet the 
> fob. They can't get into either the trunk or the glovebox if those have been 
> locked with the key. Also useful if you want to secure the trunk contents 
> against a potential thief bashing in a window and using the interior trunk 
> release.)
> 
> The trunk can be unlocked, mechanically, by turning the key hard to the left, 
> reversing the above condition. (The key is spring-loaded and cannot be left 
> in that position, it'll move back to the center position afterwards.) The key 
> can be removed in the center position, which is 'normal', or the right 
> position, which is locked.
> 
> The trunk can be opened, mechanically, by turning the key hard to the left 
> and then pushing in. This will work even if the car is completely dead.
> 
> With the lock in the center position, 'normal', the trunk can be opened 
> electro-pneumatically, with one of:
> 
> Interior switch;
> 
> Key fob;
> 
> Pushing in the trunk lock, if the car is unlocked.
> 
> All of these (4.X) require the car to be 'alive', with no electrical or 
> pneumatic faults in the locking system.
> This car, at acquisition, could only do the very last two of these. At the 
> moment it's only 4.1 that it can't do.
> I then removed the interior trunk release switch, by pulling up on the panel. 
> Now the reason for the extreme expense of this (also apparently NLA) switch 
> became apparent: it is all the switches! Windows, mirror, trunk release, 
> child switch, airbag indicator, all in one large assembly. P/N 210 821 39 51. 
> Good news, and bad news. Good news: yes, the C330 trunk switch mechanicals I 
> scored at the junkyard are the same, right down to the numbers molded into 
> them. Bad news: it's the housing, containing the hinge pins, that is broken, 
> not the moving parts. The housing is very large and specific to this 
> particular switch assembly.
> 
> So I got out the Shoe Goo, and started trying to fix the breaks. I'm trying 
> to splint the breaks using sheet metal. If there's room for the necessary 
> splints. Being a hinge it's a high-stress point, simple glue will not be 
> sufficient.
> 
> Thursday, August 24, 2023 <>After some filing the splint works, and the 
> pivoting piece can still move. Now for the other side, which is entirely 
> missing the plastic double-ended hinge pin. (Broken out of the housing, and 
> missing.)
> After some thought I got a piece of 12ga copper wire and started hammering it 
> down in diameter on one end until it fit into the holes in the pivoting 
> pieces. I then cut off a bit of about the right length, and Shoe-Gooed it 
> into place centered in the housing. One plastic piece will pivot on the 
> inside nub, and one on the outside nub.
> 
> Friday, August 25, 2023 <>After some careful filing to make the new copper 
> hinge nubs the right length I snapped the two moving plastic pieces of the 
> switch into place. Mechanically it seems OK again, though I shall have to 
> caution Daniel to be very careful with it, as I'm sure it's not very strong.
> I installed it in the car, and it works perfectly. Now

Re: [MBZ] Son's E320

[Jim Cathey via Mercedes]

My son's away visiting his girlfriend across the country, leaving his car here.
While it's not in service I decided to try a few things:

Wednesday, August 23, 2023 <>I removed and took apart the trunk lock. It was 
very corroded and sludgy inside, it looked like there was vaseline packed in 
there. It was the corrosion preventing the key from inserting, some of the 
wafers simply wouldn't slide. The secret to disassembly is the internal 
snap-ring at the back of the lock cylinder, which holds it all together. After 
that it was careful wafer freeing and a minor filing to get the corrosion off 
of the wafers.  I used a lot of brake cleaner to sluice out all the dirt, 
grease, and etc.
Then correct (graphite) lubrication, and reassembly. This all took a lot more 
time than it should have, mostly because of unfamiliarity. The trunk lock works 
much as in older cars, except there is not a mechanical 2-state tab that lets 
the trunk be opened manually when the car is unlocked. On this car that is done 
electro-pneumatically, via the locking system computer. Summary:

The trunk can be locked, mechanically, so that it can only be opened with the 
key, by turning it hard to the right and removing it. (Valet function, you 
remove the mechanical key from the fob and keep it, and give the valet the fob. 
They can't get into either the trunk or the glovebox if those have been locked 
with the key. Also useful if you want to secure the trunk contents against a 
potential thief bashing in a window and using the interior trunk release.)

The trunk can be unlocked, mechanically, by turning the key hard to the left, 
reversing the above condition. (The key is spring-loaded and cannot be left in 
that position, it'll move back to the center position afterwards.) The key can 
be removed in the center position, which is 'normal', or the right position, 
which is locked.

The trunk can be opened, mechanically, by turning the key hard to the left and 
then pushing in. This will work even if the car is completely dead.

With the lock in the center position, 'normal', the trunk can be opened 
electro-pneumatically, with one of:

Interior switch;

Key fob;

Pushing in the trunk lock, if the car is unlocked.

All of these (4.X) require the car to be 'alive', with no electrical or 
pneumatic faults in the locking system.
This car, at acquisition, could only do the very last two of these. At the 
moment it's only 4.1 that it can't do.
I then removed the interior trunk release switch, by pulling up on the panel. 
Now the reason for the extreme expense of this (also apparently NLA) switch 
became apparent: it is all the switches! Windows, mirror, trunk release, child 
switch, airbag indicator, all in one large assembly. P/N 210 821 39 51. Good 
news, and bad news. Good news: yes, the C330 trunk switch mechanicals I scored 
at the junkyard are the same, right down to the numbers molded into them. Bad 
news: it's the housing, containing the hinge pins, that is broken, not the 
moving parts. The housing is very large and specific to this particular switch 
assembly.

So I got out the Shoe Goo, and started trying to fix the breaks. I'm trying to 
splint the breaks using sheet metal. If there's room for the necessary splints. 
Being a hinge it's a high-stress point, simple glue will not be sufficient.

Thursday, August 24, 2023 <>After some filing the splint works, and the 
pivoting piece can still move. Now for the other side, which is entirely 
missing the plastic double-ended hinge pin. (Broken out of the housing, and 
missing.)
After some thought I got a piece of 12ga copper wire and started hammering it 
down in diameter on one end until it fit into the holes in the pivoting pieces. 
I then cut off a bit of about the right length, and Shoe-Gooed it into place 
centered in the housing. One plastic piece will pivot on the inside nub, and 
one on the outside nub.

Friday, August 25, 2023 <>After some careful filing to make the new copper 
hinge nubs the right length I snapped the two moving plastic pieces of the 
switch into place. Mechanically it seems OK again, though I shall have to 
caution Daniel to be very careful with it, as I'm sure it's not very strong.
I installed it in the car, and it works perfectly. Now all the trunk functions 
are correct.

The S.O.S. switch was broken, and falling down out of the headliner. I cut up a 
large paperclip and used its pieces to secure the flip-down red cover, and to 
secure the switch body into the headliner. Very ghetto, but definitely better 
than before.

I used Goo Gone to clean off the door handles and such that were grimy. A 
little better looking inside.

Three of the jack point covers were in the ashtray, and looking at them I see 
why. The plastic protrusions that hold them in place are broken off. Looking at 
the fourth I can see that it's probably the same, as clear tape is being used 
to hold it in place on the car. I got out the clear packing tape and did the 
same to the others. 

Re: [MBZ] Son's E320

[Jim Cathey via Mercedes]

> Did you say the cats were gutted? Intentionally?

Yes, either by PO or by PPO.  (It was unclear.)
The car's a bit loud, and smelly.

> That might make me want to count spring coils.

That's on the list!

-- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] Son's E320

[mitch--- via Mercedes]

On 2023-08-12 12:19, Jim Cathey via Mercedes wrote:

My guess is tired or cut springs, as I doubt that they'd both break the 
same.  This will

need to be addressed before too much time goes by.


Did you say the cats were gutted? Intentionally?
That might make me want to count spring coils.

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Re: [MBZ] Son's E320

[Jim Cathey via Mercedes]

> Springs might be tired, it happens. Check the height on both sides and see if 
> it’s the same. If not, probably a bad spring.

I took a much closer look this morning, with a tape measure, framing square, 
and level.
The ground-to-wheel-arch measurement is the same on both sides, and much less 
than
on the reference car.  The camber _is_ off, now that I look much closer.  Using 
a framing
square on the (metal) wheel face, the level on the other leg is off a full 
bubble compared
to the reference car.  If you put the tape measure against the top edge of the 
rim and look
straight down from the wheel arch, it's notably more inset than on the 
reference car.
Both sides.

My guess is tired or cut springs, as I doubt that they'd both break the same.  
This will
need to be addressed before too much time goes by.

-- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] Son's E320

[Jim Cathey via Mercedes]

>> He's licensed and insured, and is now driving his very own car to work.
> More than many 20 year olds can say these days.

Actually 21.  Full-on legal.  He went with The General, rather than pursue
getting a USAA account.  (He's third-gen, but so long as gen2 has an active
account he should be eligible.)

-- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] Son's E320

[Allan Streib via Mercedes]

On Sat, Aug 12, 2023, at 09:53, Jim Cathey via Mercedes wrote:

> He's licensed and insured, and is now driving his very own car to work.

More than many 20 year olds can say these days.

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Re: [MBZ] Son's E320

[dan penoff.com via Mercedes]

Common, even more so in FL. You can get the little “corkscrew” pins and screw 
them into it to keep it up.

Springs might be tired, it happens. Check the height on both sides and see if 
it’s the same. If not, probably a bad spring. They can break, too. I saw one on 
a W140 that the last 3”-4” of the bottom of the spring broke off. Not really 
noticeable unless you look closely.

-D

> On Aug 12, 2023, at 10:53 AM, Jim Cathey via Mercedes  
> wrote:
> 
> I looked the car over a bit more and noted some more things:
> 
> 1) The headliner is starting to come down in back.  Not too bad yet.
> 2) The front suspension sits 3" lower than our 4wd same-year E320.
> 
> Has some boy racer been f-ing with the front suspension?
> Is something broken?  (But the camber looks OK.)  Is this a
> 2wd vs 4wd thing?
> 
> He's licensed and insured, and is now driving his very own car to work.
> 
> -- Jim
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
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Re: [MBZ] Son's E320

[Jim Cathey via Mercedes]

I looked the car over a bit more and noted some more things:

1) The headliner is starting to come down in back.  Not too bad yet.
2) The front suspension sits 3" lower than our 4wd same-year E320.

Has some boy racer been f-ing with the front suspension?
Is something broken?  (But the camber looks OK.)  Is this a
2wd vs 4wd thing?

He's licensed and insured, and is now driving his very own car to work.

-- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] Son's E320

[Allan Streib via Mercedes]

On Wed, Aug 9, 2023, at 17:57, Floyd Thursby via Mercedes wrote:
> It's really weird how that oil can wick up there

Capillary action, I presume?


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Re: [MBZ] Son's E320

[Floyd Thursby via Mercedes]

It's really weird how that oil can wick up there

--FT

On 8/9/23 6:55 PM, Jim Cathey via Mercedes wrote:

• Checked TCM for oil wicking. Looks clean.

How do you go about doing this?

Pull the TCM out and looked at its connectors for any sign of oil.  Cable too.
I had one so bad that just tipping over the TCM resulted in oil dripping
out of it.

-- Jim


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--
--FT
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Re: [MBZ] Son's E320

[Jim Cathey via Mercedes]

>>  • Checked TCM for oil wicking. Looks clean.
> How do you go about doing this?

Pull the TCM out and looked at its connectors for any sign of oil.  Cable too.
I had one so bad that just tipping over the TCM resulted in oil dripping
out of it.

-- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] Son's E320

[Floyd Thursby via Mercedes]

That car has a 722.6 which can leak around the conductor plate connector 
at the transmission, then fluid can wick up to the TCM which is under 
the dash.  You can pull the connector and look at it or open the TCM 
housing to see if it is greasy. The oil can cause various issues if it 
contaminates the TCM or the wiring.


The 722.9 has its own set of issues but not similar to this

--FT

On 8/9/23 6:27 PM, Allan Streib via Mercedes wrote:

On Wed, Aug 9, 2023, at 16:59, Jim Cathey via Mercedes wrote:


• Checked TCM for oil wicking. Looks clean.

How do you go about doing this?

Allan

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--
--FT
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Re: [MBZ] Son's E320

[Allan Streib via Mercedes]

On Wed, Aug 9, 2023, at 16:59, Jim Cathey via Mercedes wrote:

>   • Checked TCM for oil wicking. Looks clean.

How do you go about doing this?

Allan

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Re: [MBZ] Son's E320

[Jim Cathey via Mercedes]

The (emergency) key that's in the fob.  The trunk lock feels
like there might be junk in it preventing full insertion.

-- Jim

>>   • Mechanical key works in glovebox and door, but not in trunk.
> 
> Valet key? Though I would expect that to work the door but not the
> glovebox.


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Re: [MBZ] Son's E320

[Craig via Mercedes]

On Wed, 9 Aug 2023 14:59:03 -0700 Jim Cathey via Mercedes
 wrote:


>• Mechanical key works in glovebox and door, but not in trunk.

Valet key? Though I would expect that to work the door but not the
glovebox.


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] Son's E320

[Jim Cathey via Mercedes]

I ran a VIN check, it looks like that car might have been sold for $3,995 in 
late 2017.
So, the PO basically sold it for what he paid for it.

I had a look over the car. Pretty good overall condition.

• Vacuumed leaves and dirt out of firewall area.
• Checked TCM for oil wicking. Looks clean.
• Checked belt idler pulleys, they're good.
• Checked spare tire and tools. Good.
• Test drive (short) felt OK. ESP works (on gravel).
• Mechanical key works in glovebox and door, but not in trunk.
• Windows and sunroof all operable.
• Interior trunk release feels mechanically broken, but indicator 
works. (So it's not unplugged, and probably needs replacement.)
• Blizzak snow tires are very worn, they're really not much good 
anymore. (These particular tires age poorly anyway.)
• Lubricated the driver's-side sunvisor. Now works properly.

-- Jim

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