Re: [MBZ] Warning lights - the continuing saga

[Tim C]

On Thu, Dec 20, 2012 at 4:40 PM, Curt Raymond  wrote:

> Thats my plan for next week. I don't know anybody right around here does
> those tests, I'll need to call around and check. It actually doesn't seem
> like its all that difficult to remove.
>
> A rebuilt looks like right on $100 with a "lifetime" warranty.
>

Both AZ and Advance have active coupons, as I recall, if you are slumming.
 Check fatwallet.

Best,
Tim
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Re: [MBZ] Warning lights - the continuing saga

[Fmiser]

> Curt Raymond wrote:

> Thats my plan for next week. I don't know anybody right around
> here does those tests, I'll need to call around and check. It
> actually doesn't seem like its all that difficult to remove.

I have often toyed with the idea of a test stand.  An AC motor
to turn it, and some heaters, lights, blowers, etc as a load.
Not necessarily to test full output, to to see if it's close to
doing what it should.

It's never gotten past the dream stage. *smiles*

--   Philip

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Re: [MBZ] Warning lights - the continuing saga

[Michael Canfield]

Napa stores around here test alternators.  Call around to your FLAPS and
ask.

Mike
On Dec 20, 2012 6:43 PM, "Curt Raymond"  wrote:

> Actually the one time I took back a "lifetime" rebuilt caliper to Advance
> they were very good about it. In fact they let me buy another caliper (I
> had to drive the car after all), swap that one in and return the leaker.
> I put 25,000 miles on the other one with no issues, probably 20,000 on the
> leaker...
>
> -Curt
>
>
> Date: Thu, 20 Dec 2012 16:36:13 -0600
> From: Dieselhead <126die...@gmail.com>
> To: Mercedes Discussion List 
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] Warning lights - the continuing saga
> Message-ID: 
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" ; format="flowed"
>
> >Whose lifetime?  ;<)
> >
> >Wilton
>
> until Curt gets it home.
>
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>
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Re: [MBZ] Warning lights - the continuing saga

[Curt Raymond]

Actually the one time I took back a "lifetime" rebuilt caliper to Advance they 
were very good about it. In fact they let me buy another caliper (I had to 
drive the car after all), swap that one in and return the leaker.
I put 25,000 miles on the other one with no issues, probably 20,000 on the 
leaker...

-Curt


Date: Thu, 20 Dec 2012 16:36:13 -0600
From: Dieselhead <126die...@gmail.com>
To: Mercedes Discussion List 
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Warning lights - the continuing saga
Message-ID: 
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" ; format="flowed"

>Whose lifetime?  ;<)
>
>Wilton

until Curt gets it home.

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Re: [MBZ] Warning lights - the continuing saga

[Dieselhead]

Whose lifetime?  ;<)

Wilton


until Curt gets it home.

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Re: [MBZ] Warning lights - the continuing saga

[WILTON]

Whose lifetime?  ;<)

Wilton

- Original Message - 
From: "Curt Raymond" 

To: "Diesel List" 
Sent: Thursday, December 20, 2012 4:40 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Warning lights - the continuing saga


Thats my plan for next week. I don't know anybody right around here does 
those tests, I'll need to call around and check. It actually doesn't seem 
like its all that difficult to remove.


A rebuilt looks like right on $100 with a "lifetime" warranty.

-Curt

Date: Thu, 20 Dec 2012 13:51:03 -0600
From: Randy Bennell 
To: Mercedes Discussion List 
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Warning lights - the continuing saga
Message-ID: <50d36c27.4060...@bennell.ca>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed

Can you throw ithe alternator on the tester at the local store and see
what you get?

My son is going through this situation at the moment on the old 4Runner.
It started acting weird and the alternator was only putting out about 12V.
He got a new one and put it on and all was well for a day or two and it
started all over again. Back to 12V or so.
He got a second one and put it on and so far so good.
So, the question is whether the new one was bad or if there is something
else going on that will come back to haunt again.

Randy


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Re: [MBZ] Warning lights - the continuing saga

[Curt Raymond]

Thats my plan for next week. I don't know anybody right around here does those 
tests, I'll need to call around and check. It actually doesn't seem like its 
all that difficult to remove.

A rebuilt looks like right on $100 with a "lifetime" warranty.

-Curt

Date: Thu, 20 Dec 2012 13:51:03 -0600
From: Randy Bennell 
To: Mercedes Discussion List 
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Warning lights - the continuing saga
Message-ID: <50d36c27.4060...@bennell.ca>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed

Can you throw ithe alternator on the tester at the local store and see 
what you get?

My son is going through this situation at the moment on the old 4Runner. 
It started acting weird and the alternator was only putting out about 12V.
He got a new one and put it on and all was well for a day or two and it 
started all over again. Back to 12V or so.
He got a second one and put it on and so far so good.
So, the question is whether the new one was bad or if there is something 
else going on that will come back to haunt again.

Randy


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Re: [MBZ] Warning lights - the continuing saga

[Randy Bennell]

Can you throw ithe alternator on the tester at the local store and see 
what you get?


My son is going through this situation at the moment on the old 4Runner. 
It started acting weird and the alternator was only putting out about 12V.
He got a new one and put it on and all was well for a day or two and it 
started all over again. Back to 12V or so.

He got a second one and put it on and so far so good.
So, the question is whether the new one was bad or if there is something 
else going on that will come back to haunt again.


Randy


On 20/12/2012 1:26 PM, Curt Raymond wrote:

Hi Scott, thanks for muddying the waters ;)

I agree it seems like theres something else going on.
The 12.5v I'm seeing at the battery is confirmed at the large terminal coming from the 
alternator. Theres no way to "check the voltage at the alternator" because 
theres no lug at the alternator, just the plug that comes out to the two wires in the 
block on the wheelwell. So other than disconnecting the large wire at the block and 
looking for 12v there, which seems like a bad idea, I dunno.

If indeed 9v is enough for field current then I'm back to thinking I've got a 
bad alternator. I wonder what my local Car Quest wants for a cheapo rebuilt. 
The alternator in it is 22 months, 30,000 miles brand new from Mercedes but 
apparently only had a 1 year warranty...

-Curt

Date: Thu, 20 Dec 2012 13:00:45 -0500
From: "Scott Ritchey" 
To: "'Mercedes Discussion List'" 
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Warning lights - the continuing saga
Message-ID: <0F4219F860B7448291F0C4574DB2BE08@ScottPC>
Content-Type: text/plain;charset="us-ascii"

Curt, I think 9v should be enough to get the alternator going, it doesn't
take much.  After the alternator starts producing power it powers the field
coils without outside assistance.  I suspect your problem is elsewhere.

Is there any chance you shorted out the 12v to the alternator output
terminal during maintenance and blew a fusible link somewhere?

As a test, I'd use some long voltmeter leads to measure the output voltage
right at the alternator with the motor running to confirm suspicions about
the alternator.

I don't have any 201 experience but I think you really need the ETM to sort
this out in a logical fashion.  Otherwise it's just a "shot in the dark",
which only goes so far.

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Re: [MBZ] Warning lights - the continuing saga

[Curt Raymond]

Hi Scott, thanks for muddying the waters ;)

I agree it seems like theres something else going on.
The 12.5v I'm seeing at the battery is confirmed at the large terminal coming 
from the alternator. Theres no way to "check the voltage at the alternator" 
because theres no lug at the alternator, just the plug that comes out to the 
two wires in the block on the wheelwell. So other than disconnecting the large 
wire at the block and looking for 12v there, which seems like a bad idea, I 
dunno.

If indeed 9v is enough for field current then I'm back to thinking I've got a 
bad alternator. I wonder what my local Car Quest wants for a cheapo rebuilt. 
The alternator in it is 22 months, 30,000 miles brand new from Mercedes but 
apparently only had a 1 year warranty...

-Curt

Date: Thu, 20 Dec 2012 13:00:45 -0500
From: "Scott Ritchey" 
To: "'Mercedes Discussion List'" 
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Warning lights - the continuing saga
Message-ID: <0F4219F860B7448291F0C4574DB2BE08@ScottPC>
Content-Type: text/plain;charset="us-ascii"

Curt, I think 9v should be enough to get the alternator going, it doesn't
take much.  After the alternator starts producing power it powers the field
coils without outside assistance.  I suspect your problem is elsewhere.  

Is there any chance you shorted out the 12v to the alternator output
terminal during maintenance and blew a fusible link somewhere?

As a test, I'd use some long voltmeter leads to measure the output voltage
right at the alternator with the motor running to confirm suspicions about
the alternator.

I don't have any 201 experience but I think you really need the ETM to sort
this out in a logical fashion.  Otherwise it's just a "shot in the dark",
which only goes so far.

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Re: [MBZ] Warning lights - the continuing saga

[WILTON]

I don't know for sure, either, but my thoughts, too - that 9v oughta get it 
started.


Wilton

- Original Message - 
From: "Scott Ritchey" 

To: "'Mercedes Discussion List'" 
Sent: Thursday, December 20, 2012 1:00 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Warning lights - the continuing saga



Curt, I think 9v should be enough to get the alternator going, it doesn't
take much.  After the alternator starts producing power it powers the 
field

coils without outside assistance.  I suspect your problem is elsewhere.

Is there any chance you shorted out the 12v to the alternator output
terminal during maintenance and blew a fusible link somewhere?

As a test, I'd use some long voltmeter leads to measure the output voltage
right at the alternator with the motor running to confirm suspicions about
the alternator.

I don't have any 201 experience but I think you really need the ETM to 
sort

this out in a logical fashion.  Otherwise it's just a "shot in the dark",
which only goes so far.

-Original Message-
From: Mercedes [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of Curt
Raymond
Sent: Thursday, December 20, 2012 12:27 PM
To: Diesel List
Subject: [MBZ] Warning lights - the continuing saga

So yesterday I took the regulator back out of the alternator on my '84 
190D.

You might remember back a couple weeks ago the low fuel, brake, and brake
wear lights came on and I determined there was no charging going on. I
replaced the regulator and all the warning lights went out plus the fuel
gauge stopped working and still no charging.

So there was nothing obviously wrong with the regulator, I stuck in a 
spare
I had hanging around which didn't change anything. While I was there I 
took
the cover off the back of the alternator, its a PITA for troubleshooting. 
I

even took the time to thread the wires back out of the hose.
More troubleshooting reveals with the engine running theres about 9v at 
the
small wire from the alternator which I'm given to understand is where 
field
current comes from. That would explain why there is no charging. So 
clearly

we're not getting enough power from somewhere (the dashpod?) to initiate
charging. I tore into the dashpod again and farted around not really 
finding

anything, 201 dashpods are a pain vs 123, they've got teeth, on them
presumably to keep them from moving around, that just slash the backs of 
my
hands, all the other lights are fed from lightpipes which are a nightmare 
to

wrangle...

I did manage to pop the fuse to the clock which tripped a lightbulb in my
head and I started REPLACING ALL THE FUSES which did get the fuel gauge
working again but didn't help anything else. I need to order some more
fuses, some of the ones I put in didn't look a lot better (aftermarket) 
than

the ones I took out and I've used up every single spare I had.

I can't find my copy of the 201 FSM, I'm wondering if theres another fuse
that might be in charge of the charging system?

The last trick I'm going to try is to run a ground wire directly to the 
pod.
I had to do that on my '83 240D, it had a bad ground somewhere I could 
never
find. The 201 does NOT ground behind the pod like a 123 does, its down 
above

the driver's feet somewhere which I also haven't been able to find...

-Curt

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Re: [MBZ] Warning lights - the continuing saga

[Scott Ritchey]

Curt, I think 9v should be enough to get the alternator going, it doesn't
take much.  After the alternator starts producing power it powers the field
coils without outside assistance.  I suspect your problem is elsewhere.  

Is there any chance you shorted out the 12v to the alternator output
terminal during maintenance and blew a fusible link somewhere?

As a test, I'd use some long voltmeter leads to measure the output voltage
right at the alternator with the motor running to confirm suspicions about
the alternator.

I don't have any 201 experience but I think you really need the ETM to sort
this out in a logical fashion.  Otherwise it's just a "shot in the dark",
which only goes so far.

-Original Message-
From: Mercedes [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of Curt
Raymond
Sent: Thursday, December 20, 2012 12:27 PM
To: Diesel List
Subject: [MBZ] Warning lights - the continuing saga

So yesterday I took the regulator back out of the alternator on my '84 190D.
You might remember back a couple weeks ago the low fuel, brake, and brake
wear lights came on and I determined there was no charging going on. I
replaced the regulator and all the warning lights went out plus the fuel
gauge stopped working and still no charging.

So there was nothing obviously wrong with the regulator, I stuck in a spare
I had hanging around which didn't change anything. While I was there I took
the cover off the back of the alternator, its a PITA for troubleshooting. I
even took the time to thread the wires back out of the hose.
More troubleshooting reveals with the engine running theres about 9v at the
small wire from the alternator which I'm given to understand is where field
current comes from. That would explain why there is no charging. So clearly
we're not getting enough power from somewhere (the dashpod?) to initiate
charging. I tore into the dashpod again and farted around not really finding
anything, 201 dashpods are a pain vs 123, they've got teeth, on them
presumably to keep them from moving around, that just slash the backs of my
hands, all the other lights are fed from lightpipes which are a nightmare to
wrangle...

I did manage to pop the fuse to the clock which tripped a lightbulb in my
head and I started REPLACING ALL THE FUSES which did get the fuel gauge
working again but didn't help anything else. I need to order some more
fuses, some of the ones I put in didn't look a lot better (aftermarket) than
the ones I took out and I've used up every single spare I had.

I can't find my copy of the 201 FSM, I'm wondering if theres another fuse
that might be in charge of the charging system?

The last trick I'm going to try is to run a ground wire directly to the pod.
I had to do that on my '83 240D, it had a bad ground somewhere I could never
find. The 201 does NOT ground behind the pod like a 123 does, its down above
the driver's feet somewhere which I also haven't been able to find...

-Curt

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[MBZ] Warning lights - the continuing saga

[Curt Raymond]

So yesterday I took the regulator back out of the alternator on my '84 190D. 
You might remember back a couple weeks ago the low fuel, brake, and brake wear 
lights came on and I determined there was no charging going on. I replaced the 
regulator and all the warning lights went out plus the fuel gauge stopped 
working and still no charging.

So there was nothing obviously wrong with the regulator, I stuck in a spare I 
had hanging around which didn't change anything. While I was there I took the 
cover off the back of the alternator, its a PITA for troubleshooting. I even 
took the time to thread the wires back out of the hose.
More troubleshooting reveals with the engine running theres about 9v at the 
small wire from the alternator which I'm given to understand is where field 
current comes from. That would explain why there is no charging. So clearly 
we're not getting enough power from somewhere (the dashpod?) to initiate 
charging. I tore into the dashpod again and farted around not really finding 
anything, 201 dashpods are a pain vs 123, they've got teeth, on them presumably 
to keep them from moving around, that just slash the backs of my hands, all the 
other lights are fed from lightpipes which are a nightmare to wrangle...

I did manage to pop the fuse to the clock which tripped a lightbulb in my head 
and I started REPLACING ALL THE FUSES which did get the fuel gauge working 
again but didn't help anything else. I need to order some more fuses, some of 
the ones I put in didn't look a lot better (aftermarket) than the ones I took 
out and I've used up every single spare I had.

I can't find my copy of the 201 FSM, I'm wondering if theres another fuse that 
might be in charge of the charging system?

The last trick I'm going to try is to run a ground wire directly to the pod. I 
had to do that on my '83 240D, it had a bad ground somewhere I could never 
find. The 201 does NOT ground behind the pod like a 123 does, its down above 
the driver's feet somewhere which I also haven't been able to find...

-Curt

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Re: [MBZ] Warning lights?

[David Bruckmann]

In my 300D's case, sometimes yes, sometimes no...

On 12/18/12, Curt wrote:
>
>Would the car still start in that condition?
>
>-Curt
>
>Date: Sun, 16 Dec 2012 20:05:45 -0800
>From: David Bruckmann 
>To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
>Subject: Re: [MBZ] Warning lights?
>
>Both the large and not-so-large wires at the starter can cause a no-charge, 
>no-lights condition.
>
>The battery feed to the large terminal is normally a hefty black cable. The 
>less-hefty but still substantial red wire goes back into the loom, feeding the 
>entire vehicle, including the ignition switch, charge circuit, etc, etc.
>
>On later W123 models from MY1982 and later there's a terminal strip on the 
>inner fender. Presumably the W201 has a similar connector. A problem there 
>would also cause a similar failure condition.
>
>D.


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Re: [MBZ] Warning lights?

[Curt Raymond]

Would the car still start in that condition?

-Curt

Date: Sun, 16 Dec 2012 20:05:45 -0800
From: David Bruckmann 
To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Warning lights?
Message-ID: 
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

Both the large and not-so-large wires at the starter can cause a no-charge, 
no-lights condition.

The battery feed to the large terminal is normally a hefty black cable. The 
less-hefty but still substantial red wire goes back into the loom, feeding the 
entire vehicle, including the ignition switch, charge circuit, etc, etc.

On later W123 models from MY1982 and later there's a terminal strip on the 
inner fender. Presumably the W201 has a similar connector. A problem there 
would also cause a similar failure condition.

D.

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Re: [MBZ] Warning lights?

[David Bruckmann]

Both the large and not-so-large wires at the starter can cause a no-charge, 
no-lights condition.

The battery feed to the large terminal is normally a hefty black cable. The 
less-hefty but still substantial red wire goes back into the loom, feeding the 
entire vehicle, including the ignition switch, charge circuit, etc, etc.

On later W123 models from MY1982 and later there's a terminal strip on the 
inner fender. Presumably the W201 has a similar connector. A problem there 
would also cause a similar failure condition.

D.

On 12/15/12, Craig wrote:
>
>
>On Sat, 15 Dec 2012 08:09:14 -0800 David Bruckmann
> wrote:
>
>> Path is normally:
>> 
>> Battery => small starter terminal => ignition switch => charge light =>
>> alternator exciter terminal
>
>I would say the path, rather, is:
>
>
>largestarter  small
>Battery => starter => ignition switch => lock-out => starter
>   terminal   |   switch terminal
>  |
>  |
>  | => charge light => alternator
>exciter
>terminal
>
>
>> Add in a bunch of relays and connectors in between, natch. 
>
>And, possibly, a fuse between the battery and the ignition switch
>
>
>> In other words check the connections at the starter.
>
>Yes, if the connection at the large terminal of the starter were bad,
>the ignition switch would get no power.
>
>
>Craig


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Re: [MBZ] Warning lights?

[Curt Raymond]

The alternator light wasn't coming on during self test before starting so I 
changed the bulb at which point it came on. No warning lights during running 
but no charging either, battery voltage only.

I replaced the regulator and now I've got no dash warning lights other than the 
fasten seat belt light and the fuel gauge doesn't work.

My Indy suspects that I broke a brush when installing the regulator or I 
managed to get the other electrical attachment on the regulator not on its 
mating face. I think one of those is likely, I didn't feel good about the 
regulator install. The regulator I installed was a different brand (KAE I 
think, the original was Bosch) and looked slightly different. A dig through my 
parts box found a used but probably good Bosch I'll install when the weather 
and my cold clear.

-Curt

Date: Sun, 16 Dec 2012 11:27:12 -0500
From: Mitch Haley 
To: Mercedes Discussion List 
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Warning lights?
Message-ID: <50cdf660.1070...@voyager.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed

Curt Raymond wrote:
> Now how would the starter connections have gone bad while I tinkered with the 
> regulator? I didn't specifically mention it but the car does start and run (I 
> did say it didn't charge).

I thought you had charging and dash light problems before removing the 
regulator/brush pack.

Mitch.

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Re: [MBZ] Warning lights?

[Mitch Haley]

Curt Raymond wrote:

Now how would the starter connections have gone bad while I tinkered with the 
regulator? I didn't specifically mention it but the car does start and run (I 
did say it didn't charge).


I thought you had charging and dash light problems before removing the 
regulator/brush pack.


Mitch.

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Re: [MBZ] Warning lights?

[Curt Raymond]

Now how would the starter connections have gone bad while I tinkered with the 
regulator? I didn't specifically mention it but the car does start and run (I 
did say it didn't charge).

-Curt

Date: Sat, 15 Dec 2012 08:09:14 -0800
From: David Bruckmann 
To: "mercedes@okiebenz.com" 
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Warning lights?
Message-ID: <50777617-5375-4145-acea-abfa881f9...@transcontinental.ca>
Content-Type: text/plain;charset=us-ascii

Path is normally:

Battery => small starter terminal => ignition switch => charge light => 
alternator exciter terminal

Add in a bunch of relays and connectors in between, natch. 

In other words check the connections at the starter. 

On 2012-12-15, Curt Raymond wrote:
> Edit: I'm reasonably sure something else is going on, either I screwed up 
> installing the regulator (quite possible) or something else entirely, now I 
> have no warning lights or fuel gauge. Unfortunately I didn't check to see if 
> they worked before I pulled the regulator, sloppy of me. Does the gauge 
> cluster ground through the regulator?
> 
> 
> -Curt

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Re: [MBZ] Warning lights?

[buymbparts]

R
Sent on the Sprint® Now Network from my BlackBerry®

-Original Message-
From: David Bruckmann 
Sender: "Mercedes" 
Date: Sat, 15 Dec 2012 08:09:14 
To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Reply-To: Mercedes Discussion List 
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Warning lights?

Path is normally:

Battery => small starter terminal => ignition switch => charge light => 
alternator exciter terminal

Add in a bunch of relays and connectors in between, natch. 

In other words check the connections at the starter. 

On 2012-12-15, Curt Raymond wrote:
> Edit: I'm reasonably sure something else is going on, either I screwed up 
> installing the regulator (quite possible) or something else entirely, now I 
> have no warning lights or fuel gauge. Unfortunately I didn't check to see if 
> they worked before I pulled the regulator, sloppy of me. Does the gauge 
> cluster ground through the regulator?
> 
> 
> -Curt

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Re: [MBZ] Warning lights?

[Craig]

On Sat, 15 Dec 2012 08:09:14 -0800 David Bruckmann
 wrote:

> Path is normally:
> 
> Battery => small starter terminal => ignition switch => charge light =>
> alternator exciter terminal

I would say the path, rather, is:


largestarter  small
Battery => starter => ignition switch => lock-out => starter
   terminal   |   switch terminal
  |
  |
  | => charge light => alternator
exciter
terminal


> Add in a bunch of relays and connectors in between, natch. 

And, possibly, a fuse between the battery and the ignition switch


> In other words check the connections at the starter.

Yes, if the connection at the large terminal of the starter were bad,
the ignition switch would get no power.




Craig

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Re: [MBZ] Warning lights?

[David Bruckmann]

Path is normally:

Battery => small starter terminal => ignition switch => charge light => 
alternator exciter terminal

Add in a bunch of relays and connectors in between, natch. 

In other words check the connections at the starter. 

On 2012-12-15, Curt Raymond wrote:
> Edit: I'm reasonably sure something else is going on, either I screwed up 
> installing the regulator (quite possible) or something else entirely, now I 
> have no warning lights or fuel gauge. Unfortunately I didn't check to see if 
> they worked before I pulled the regulator, sloppy of me. Does the gauge 
> cluster ground through the regulator?
> 
> 
> -Curt

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Re: [MBZ] Warning lights?

[Fmiser]

> Curt Raymond wrote:

> I'm reasonably sure something else is going on, either I
> screwed up installing the regulator (quite possible) or
> something else entirely, now I have no warning lights or fuel
> gauge. Unfortunately I didn't check to see if they worked
> before I pulled the regulator, sloppy of me. Does the gauge
> cluster ground through the regulator?

With a test light (or meter) you should be able to verify the
presence of voltage at the field winding when the key is on (but
the engine not running).  If no voltage is present, then
something with the dash light has failed.

On a W123, the alternator has three wires connecting.  Two big
ones and one small blue one.  The blue, or blue-white is the one
coming from the dash light.

Don't know what might be different on yours.

--   Philip

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Re: [MBZ] Warning lights?

[OK Don]

No, IIRC, the cluster grounds are all behind the dash - brown wires. One or
more are either loose, broken, or corrosion is between them and the
chassis. Keep looking there.

On Fri, Dec 14, 2012 at 2:36 PM, Curt Raymond  wrote:

>  Does the gauge cluster ground through the regulator?
>
>
> -Curt
>



-- 
OK Don
2001 ML320
2012 Passat TDI DSG
1997 Plymouth Grand Voyager
1957 C182A
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Re: [MBZ] Warning lights?

[Mitch Haley]

Curt Raymond wrote:


Edit: I'm reasonably sure something else is going on, either I screwed up 
installing the regulator (quite possible) or something else entirely, now I 
have no warning lights or fuel gauge. Unfortunately I didn't check to see if 
they worked before I pulled the regulator, sloppy of me. Does the gauge cluster 
ground through the regulator?


If the alternator doesn't get some current through the warning lamp, it likely 
won't energize.


Mitch.

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Re: [MBZ] Warning lights?

[Curt Raymond]

So finally after a trip to California the saga continues.




Today I put a new regulator in, 2 screws yeah but...
The belly pan has to come off
the cover over the alt has to come off, thats 4 nuts 1 of which has to come out 
from the top.




Then: The old regulator looked good, the brushes were about 1/16" shorter 
(maybe not quite 1/16") than the new in box I had on the shelf. I put the new 
one in anyway, I figured while I was there and all. Spent a little time 
cleaning the rings with contact cleaner on a rag before I installed.
Fired up and, nothing. Same 12.5v I was seeing at rest.




Decided I'd call my Indy to see what the warranty is and call CarQuest to price 
a new one. Pulled the paperwork and realize that this was a NEW(!) alternator 
to the tune of $331.62 not quite 2 years ago. Called the Indy, he wasn't there, 
we'll see what he says but I suspect he'll warranty that. IIRC he upsold me 
into the new alt based on the 4 or 5 refurbs we had to put into my '83 240D to 
get one that worked right.

Edit: I'm reasonably sure something else is going on, either I screwed up 
installing the regulator (quite possible) or something else entirely, now I 
have no warning lights or fuel gauge. Unfortunately I didn't check to see if 
they worked before I pulled the regulator, sloppy of me. Does the gauge cluster 
ground through the regulator?


-Curt

--- On Fri, 12/14/12, Curt Raymond  wrote:

> From: Curt Raymond 
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] Warning lights?
> To: "Curt Raymond" 
> Date: Friday, December 14, 2012, 2:48 PM
> So finally after a trip to California
> the saga continues.
> 
> Today I put a new regulator in, 2 screws yeah but...
> The belly pan has to come off
> the cover over the alt has to come off, thats 4 nuts 1 of
> which has to come out from the top.
> 
> Then: The old regulator looked good, the brushes were about
> 1/16" shorter (maybe not quite 1/16") than the new in box I
> had on the shelf. I put the new one in anyway, I figured
> while I was there and all. Spent a little time cleaning the
> rings with contact cleaner on a rag before I installed.
> Fired up and, nothing. Same 12.5v I was seeing at rest.
> 
> Decided I'd call my Indy to see what the warranty is and
> call CarQuest to price a new one. Pulled the paperwork and
> realize that this was a NEW(!) alternator to the tune of
> $331.62 not quite 2 years ago. Called the Indy, he wasn't
> there, we'll see what he says but I suspect he'll warranty
> that. IIRC he upsold me into the new alt based on the 4 or 5
> refurbs we had to put into my '83 240D to get one that
> worked right.
> 
> -Curt
> 
> --- On Thu, 12/6/12, Curt Raymond 
> wrote:
> 
> > From: Curt Raymond 
> > Subject: Re: [MBZ] Warning lights?
> > To: "Diesel List" 
> > Date: Thursday, December 6, 2012, 1:12 PM
> > How?
> > 
> > -Curt
> > 
> > Date: Wed, 5 Dec 2012 20:30:53 -0600
> > From: OK Don 
> > To: Mercedes Discussion List 
> > Subject: Re: [MBZ] Warning lights?
> > Message-ID:
> >    
> > 
> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
> > 
> > Clean the slip rings before you put the new regulator
> in -
> > BTDT.
> > 
> > On Wed, Dec 5, 2012 at 8:19 PM, Peter Frederick wrote:
> > 
> > > Typical failure of the regulators, BUT sometimes
> it's
> > more.  A new
> > > regulator will tell you, as it will restore full
> > function if that's all
> > > that's wrong (and usually it's only the brushes
> > anyway), but if that
> > > doesn't work, it's new alternator time.
> > >
> > > Regulator is on the bottom of the alternator, two
> > screws.  Use something
> > > to push the brushes back when putting the new one
> in,
> > it's possible to get
> > > them hung up.
> > >
> > > Peter
> >
> 

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Re: [MBZ] Warning lights?

[OK Don]

I used a new (it's square) pencil eraser, followed by a rag folded over a
screw driver blade, soaked in brake cleaner. This converted a dead
alternator with a new regulator into a working alternator with a new
regulator. Yes, the brushes were very worn in the old regulator, but the
arcing trying to reach the worn brushes burned the rings enough that the
new brushes didn't make contact.

On Thu, Dec 6, 2012 at 12:55 PM, Dan Penoff  wrote:

> A couple of observations from someone *very* familiar with slip rings and
> brushes...
>
> Never, EVER use emery cloth or other abrasives on slip rings.  They are
> soft copper, and small particles of the abrasive will become embedded in
> the slip rings, effectively turning them into little copper grinding wheels.
>
> Some possibilities for cleaning:
>
> As described previously, a rag with some contact cleaner swabbed around
> them
>
> Pencil eraser
>
> Commutator stone (can be had at any well stocked motor or welding supply
> house.)
>
> Do realize that a slip ring in good condition will have a brownish color
> to it similar to an old penny.  This is good, as it's oxidation of the
> copper that protects it.  There is nothing to gain by "cleaning" slip rings
> back to a bright shiny color - within a few hours of operation they will
> return to their brownish color.
>
> Although it's been a while since I've replaced a Bosch regulator, am I
> correct in recalling that the brush rig had a small hole to insert a piece
> of wire to keep the brushes in the retainer?  This is a common practice for
> some manufacturers, but since it's been a while since I've done one I
> couldn't recall.
>
> Dan
>
>
> On Dec 6, 2012, at 1:46 PM, Michael Canfield wrote:
>
> > I haven't done it myself but I would say you could use a rag flooded over
> > the end of a screwdriver a couple times sprayed with contact cleaner.
> > Stick it in the hole where the regulator goes and spin the alternator by
> > hand.  Compressed air probably wouldn't be a bad idea.
> >
> > Mike
> > On Dec 6, 2012 1:12 PM, "Curt Raymond"  wrote:
> >
> >> How?
> >>
> >> -Curt
> >>
> >> Date: Wed, 5 Dec 2012 20:30:53 -0600
> >> From: OK Don 
> >> To: Mercedes Discussion List 
> >> Subject: Re: [MBZ] Warning lights?
> >> Message-ID:
> >>
> >> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
> >>
> >> Clean the slip rings before you put the new regulator in - BTDT.
> >>
> >> On Wed, Dec 5, 2012 at 8:19 PM, Peter Frederick  >>> wrote:
> >>
> >>> Typical failure of the regulators, BUT sometimes it's more.  A new
> >>> regulator will tell you, as it will restore full function if that's all
> >>> that's wrong (and usually it's only the brushes anyway), but if that
> >>> doesn't work, it's new alternator time.
> >>>
> >>> Regulator is on the bottom of the alternator, two screws.  Use
> something
> >>> to push the brushes back when putting the new one in, it's possible to
> >> get
> >>> them hung up.
> >>>
> >>> Peter
> >>
> >> ___
> >> http://www.okiebenz.com
> >> For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
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> >>
> >> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> >> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
> >>
> > ___
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> >
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>
>
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-- 
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2001 ML320
2012 Passat TDI DSG
1997 Plymouth Grand Voyager
1957 C182A
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Re: [MBZ] Warning lights?

[Dan Penoff]

A couple of observations from someone *very* familiar with slip rings and 
brushes...

Never, EVER use emery cloth or other abrasives on slip rings.  They are soft 
copper, and small particles of the abrasive will become embedded in the slip 
rings, effectively turning them into little copper grinding wheels.

Some possibilities for cleaning:

As described previously, a rag with some contact cleaner swabbed around them

Pencil eraser

Commutator stone (can be had at any well stocked motor or welding supply house.)

Do realize that a slip ring in good condition will have a brownish color to it 
similar to an old penny.  This is good, as it's oxidation of the copper that 
protects it.  There is nothing to gain by "cleaning" slip rings back to a 
bright shiny color - within a few hours of operation they will return to their 
brownish color.

Although it's been a while since I've replaced a Bosch regulator, am I correct 
in recalling that the brush rig had a small hole to insert a piece of wire to 
keep the brushes in the retainer?  This is a common practice for some 
manufacturers, but since it's been a while since I've done one I couldn't 
recall.

Dan


On Dec 6, 2012, at 1:46 PM, Michael Canfield wrote:

> I haven't done it myself but I would say you could use a rag flooded over
> the end of a screwdriver a couple times sprayed with contact cleaner.
> Stick it in the hole where the regulator goes and spin the alternator by
> hand.  Compressed air probably wouldn't be a bad idea.
> 
> Mike
> On Dec 6, 2012 1:12 PM, "Curt Raymond"  wrote:
> 
>> How?
>> 
>> -Curt
>> 
>> Date: Wed, 5 Dec 2012 20:30:53 -0600
>> From: OK Don 
>> To: Mercedes Discussion List 
>> Subject: Re: [MBZ] Warning lights?
>> Message-ID:
>>
>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
>> 
>> Clean the slip rings before you put the new regulator in - BTDT.
>> 
>> On Wed, Dec 5, 2012 at 8:19 PM, Peter Frederick >> wrote:
>> 
>>> Typical failure of the regulators, BUT sometimes it's more.  A new
>>> regulator will tell you, as it will restore full function if that's all
>>> that's wrong (and usually it's only the brushes anyway), but if that
>>> doesn't work, it's new alternator time.
>>> 
>>> Regulator is on the bottom of the alternator, two screws.  Use something
>>> to push the brushes back when putting the new one in, it's possible to
>> get
>>> them hung up.
>>> 
>>> Peter
>> 
>> ___
>> http://www.okiebenz.com
>> For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
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>> 
>> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>> 
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Re: [MBZ] Warning lights?

[Michael Canfield]

I haven't done it myself but I would say you could use a rag flooded over
the end of a screwdriver a couple times sprayed with contact cleaner.
Stick it in the hole where the regulator goes and spin the alternator by
hand.  Compressed air probably wouldn't be a bad idea.

Mike
On Dec 6, 2012 1:12 PM, "Curt Raymond"  wrote:

> How?
>
> -Curt
>
> Date: Wed, 5 Dec 2012 20:30:53 -0600
> From: OK Don 
> To: Mercedes Discussion List 
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] Warning lights?
> Message-ID:
> 
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
>
> Clean the slip rings before you put the new regulator in - BTDT.
>
> On Wed, Dec 5, 2012 at 8:19 PM, Peter Frederick  >wrote:
>
> > Typical failure of the regulators, BUT sometimes it's more.  A new
> > regulator will tell you, as it will restore full function if that's all
> > that's wrong (and usually it's only the brushes anyway), but if that
> > doesn't work, it's new alternator time.
> >
> > Regulator is on the bottom of the alternator, two screws.  Use something
> > to push the brushes back when putting the new one in, it's possible to
> get
> > them hung up.
> >
> > Peter
>
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Re: [MBZ] Warning lights?

[Curt Raymond]

How?

-Curt

Date: Wed, 5 Dec 2012 20:30:53 -0600
From: OK Don 
To: Mercedes Discussion List 
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Warning lights?
Message-ID:

Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1

Clean the slip rings before you put the new regulator in - BTDT.

On Wed, Dec 5, 2012 at 8:19 PM, Peter Frederick wrote:

> Typical failure of the regulators, BUT sometimes it's more.  A new
> regulator will tell you, as it will restore full function if that's all
> that's wrong (and usually it's only the brushes anyway), but if that
> doesn't work, it's new alternator time.
>
> Regulator is on the bottom of the alternator, two screws.  Use something
> to push the brushes back when putting the new one in, it's possible to get
> them hung up.
>
> Peter

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Re: [MBZ] Warning lights?

[OK Don]

Clean the slip rings before you put the new regulator in - BTDT.

On Wed, Dec 5, 2012 at 8:19 PM, Peter Frederick wrote:

> Typical failure of the regulators, BUT sometimes it's more.  A new
> regulator will tell you, as it will restore full function if that's all
> that's wrong (and usually it's only the brushes anyway), but if that
> doesn't work, it's new alternator time.
>
> Regulator is on the bottom of the alternator, two screws.  Use something
> to push the brushes back when putting the new one in, it's possible to get
> them hung up.
>
> Peter
>
>
> __**_
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Re: [MBZ] Warning lights?

[Peter Frederick]

Typical failure of the regulators, BUT sometimes it's more.  A new  
regulator will tell you, as it will restore full function if that's  
all that's wrong (and usually it's only the brushes anyway), but if  
that doesn't work, it's new alternator time.


Regulator is on the bottom of the alternator, two screws.  Use  
something to push the brushes back when putting the new one in, it's  
possible to get them hung up.


Peter

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Re: [MBZ] Warning lights?

[Curt Raymond]

Got the dash pod back in, terrible job that, very little space, for me getting 
the speedo cable back on was very difficult as was reconnecting the light pipes 
to the various switches.

Anyway still no charging, the alternator light glows now, not full brightness, 
maybe half way. That makes me think regulator. I've got one I think, tomorrow 
night I'll run the car up on ramps and pull the bellypan, it doesn't look like 
this is something I can do from above.

-Curt

--- On Tue, 12/4/12, Curt Raymond  wrote:

> From: Curt Raymond 
> Subject: RE: Warning lights?
> To: "Diesel List" 
> Date: Tuesday, December 4, 2012, 10:06 PM
> I had time tonight to go out and pull
> the cluster from my '84 190D that isn't charging (parking
> brake, brake warning and low fuel indicators on).
> Pulling the cluster from a 201 is a lot harder than a 123.
> The steering wheel must come out, normal tools don't seem to
> work and you can't push it out from underneath...
> 
> Anyway the bulb for the alternator light is much bigger than
> the other warning lights, its a 3w bulb, same as the turn
> indicators so I swapped it with a turn indicator bulb, now
> the alternator light is on during POST where it wasn't
> before. Dug around in my box o' bulbs and found a
> replacement (actually found 10 replacements, I guess at one
> point 12 was the minimum order) and got it installed before
> bedtime. Tomorrow night I'll put everything back together
> and fire it up and see what happens.
> 
> -Curt
> 

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Re: [MBZ] Warning lights? y5y4u3an

[Chris James]

Curt,

Never owned a W123 to compare the two, but I know I didn't have to take 
the steering wheel off of my '85 190D when I took the cluster out. If 
you take out the drivers side vent & duct hose once you've removed the 
bottom panel & unscrewed the speedo cable, you can reach around & push 
out the cluster from behind on the left side. At least that's how I 
remember doing it...it's been awhile.



-
Chris J.




On 12/4/2012 10:06 PM, Curt Raymond wrote:

Pulling the cluster from a 201 is a lot harder than a 123. The steering wheel 
must come out, normal tools don't seem to work and you can't push it out from 
underneath...



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Re: [MBZ] Warning lights?

[Curt Raymond]

I had time tonight to go out and pull the cluster from my '84 190D that isn't 
charging (parking brake, brake warning and low fuel indicators on).
Pulling the cluster from a 201 is a lot harder than a 123. The steering wheel 
must come out, normal tools don't seem to work and you can't push it out from 
underneath...

Anyway the bulb for the alternator light is much bigger than the other warning 
lights, its a 3w bulb, same as the turn indicators so I swapped it with a turn 
indicator bulb, now the alternator light is on during POST where it wasn't 
before. Dug around in my box o' bulbs and found a replacement (actually found 
10 replacements, I guess at one point 12 was the minimum order) and got it 
installed before bedtime. Tomorrow night I'll put everything back together and 
fire it up and see what happens.

-Curt

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Re: [MBZ] Warning lights?

[Michael Canfield]

If the idle is set too low the same lights will come on until the engine is
revved up a bit and the alternator starts charging better.  I am still
betting on a loose ground or weak alternator.(alternator mounted securely?
Mine wasn't.another story.). Engine to chassis ground good?

Mike
On Dec 3, 2012 11:19 PM, "Dieselhead" <126die...@gmail.com> wrote:

> On Mon, 3 Dec 2012 17:51:23 -0800 (PST) Curt Raymond
>>  wrote:
>>
>>   Wait a tick. I just had one more thought.
>>>
>>>  When I turn on the key to run the 3 indicator lights (parking brake,
>>>  brake wear and low fuel) all come on dim.
>>>
>>>  I seem to vaugely remember that field current comes through the
>>>  instrument cluster. What if the alternator indicator bulb failed?
>>>
>>
>> Then the alternator would not generate, unless the residual magnetism was
>> sufficient to bring up the alternator (somewhat unlikely, I guess).
>>
>> It still sounds like a bad ground. Parking brake, brake wear, and low
>> fuel indicators are independent of the alternator and are directly
>> powered by 12 volts.
>>
>> Craig
>>
>
>
> I think it is worth a try.  The Charging light should come on when the
> switch is turned to on and the engine is not running.  I know for sure that
> my BMW airhead will not charge if the light burns out, and I know 110/111
> MBs were the same.A bulb is a lot cheaper than a new alt.
>
> Since the charging light is not lighting, I would guess you have no
> charging.  Some feedback might cause the other lights to light.
>
>
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Re: [MBZ] Warning lights?

[Dieselhead]

On Mon, 3 Dec 2012 17:51:23 -0800 (PST) Curt Raymond
 wrote:


 Wait a tick. I just had one more thought.

 When I turn on the key to run the 3 indicator lights (parking brake,
 brake wear and low fuel) all come on dim.

 I seem to vaugely remember that field current comes through the
 instrument cluster. What if the alternator indicator bulb failed?


Then the alternator would not generate, unless the residual magnetism was
sufficient to bring up the alternator (somewhat unlikely, I guess).

It still sounds like a bad ground. Parking brake, brake wear, and low
fuel indicators are independent of the alternator and are directly
powered by 12 volts.

Craig



I think it is worth a try.  The Charging light should come on when 
the switch is turned to on and the engine is not running.  I know for 
sure that my BMW airhead will not charge if the light burns out, and 
I know 110/111 MBs were the same.A bulb is a lot cheaper than a 
new alt.


Since the charging light is not lighting, I would guess you have no 
charging.  Some feedback might cause the other lights to light.



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Re: [MBZ] Warning lights?

[Craig]

On Mon, 3 Dec 2012 17:51:23 -0800 (PST) Curt Raymond
 wrote:

> Wait a tick. I just had one more thought.
> 
> When I turn on the key to run the 3 indicator lights (parking brake,
> brake wear and low fuel) all come on dim.
> 
> I seem to vaugely remember that field current comes through the
> instrument cluster. What if the alternator indicator bulb failed?

Then the alternator would not generate, unless the residual magnetism was
sufficient to bring up the alternator (somewhat unlikely, I guess).

It still sounds like a bad ground. Parking brake, brake wear, and low
fuel indicators are independent of the alternator and are directly
powered by 12 volts.


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] Warning lights?

[Curt Raymond]

Wait a tick. I just had one more thought.

When I turn on the key to run the 3 indicator lights (parking brake, brake wear 
and low fuel) all come on dim.

I seem to vaugely remember that field current comes through the instrument 
cluster. What if the alternator indicator bulb failed?

-Curt

Date: Mon, 3 Dec 2012 16:18:24 -0800 (PST)
From: Curt Raymond 
To: Diesel List 
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Warning lights?
Message-ID:
<1354580304.84335.yahoomailclas...@web160405.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

Looks like the unlikely possibility #1 (alternator problems) is the reality but 
please give me a reality check here.

Engine off - around 12.5v (cheapo analog voltmeter)
Engine running - around 12.5v
Engine running headlights, blower and rear defroster on - 12v
revving the engine doesn't change anything.

I'm thinking this is alternator failure. I checked and the alternator was 
replaced February 2011. I wonder if my Indy will warranty it.

-Curt

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Re: [MBZ] Warning lights?

[Tim C]

I had a 123 oe alternator fail with this, plus the alternator light would
come on only when the car was turned off (other lights were off then).
Replaced the alternator but it was probably just the regulator.  I also
have a known ground issue, but that took it back to normal at least.

Best,
Tim
On Dec 3, 2012 4:29 PM, "Curt Raymond"  wrote:

> Any idea why the parking brake indicator, brake wear indicator and low
> fuel indicator would all come on just randomly?
> Last night heading home in my '84 190D those three lights came on but not
> even at full brightness. It was raining and late so I didn't troubleshoot,
> just grabbed my 240D for today's ride to work.
>
> I have two theories...
>
> #1. It actually is the brake indicator. I replaced the pads and rotors a
> couple months ago but didn't replace the wear indicators, maybe one moved
> and is now indicating.
>
> #2. Voltage regulator failure. Which would be a PITA, the alternator is
> maybe 2 years ~20,000 miles ago...
>
> My plan tonight after work is to put the multimeter on the battery which
> should rule in or out #2. Depending on how that goes I may pull one wheel
> real quick, I think the driver's side wheel is more likely to be a sensor
> reading wrong, I think I remember breaking it a little...
>
> -Curt
>
> ___
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>
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> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
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Re: [MBZ] Warning lights?

[Max Dillon]

Found one problem, but that is odd behavior for an alternator failure.  I think 
it probably is THE problem, looking forward to finding out.
-- 
Max Dillon
Charleston SC
'95 E300
'87 300TD

OK Don  wrote:

>I think you found it --
>
>On Mon, Dec 3, 2012 at 6:18 PM, Curt Raymond 
>wrote:
>
>> Looks like the unlikely possibility #1 (alternator problems) is the
>> reality but please give me a reality check here.
>>
>> Engine off - around 12.5v (cheapo analog voltmeter)
>> Engine running - around 12.5v
>> Engine running headlights, blower and rear defroster on - 12v
>> revving the engine doesn't change anything.
>>
>> I'm thinking this is alternator failure. I checked and the alternator
>was
>> replaced February 2011. I wonder if my Indy will warranty it.
>>
>> -Curt
>>
>> ___
>> http://www.okiebenz.com
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>>
>> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>>
>
>
>
>-- 
>OK Don
>2001 ML320
>2012 Passat TDI DSG
>1997 Plymouth Grand Voyager
>1957 C182A
>___
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Re: [MBZ] Warning lights?

[OK Don]

I think you found it --

On Mon, Dec 3, 2012 at 6:18 PM, Curt Raymond  wrote:

> Looks like the unlikely possibility #1 (alternator problems) is the
> reality but please give me a reality check here.
>
> Engine off - around 12.5v (cheapo analog voltmeter)
> Engine running - around 12.5v
> Engine running headlights, blower and rear defroster on - 12v
> revving the engine doesn't change anything.
>
> I'm thinking this is alternator failure. I checked and the alternator was
> replaced February 2011. I wonder if my Indy will warranty it.
>
> -Curt
>
> ___
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>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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-- 
OK Don
2001 ML320
2012 Passat TDI DSG
1997 Plymouth Grand Voyager
1957 C182A
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Re: [MBZ] Warning lights?

[Curt Raymond]

Looks like the unlikely possibility #1 (alternator problems) is the reality but 
please give me a reality check here.

Engine off - around 12.5v (cheapo analog voltmeter)
Engine running - around 12.5v
Engine running headlights, blower and rear defroster on - 12v
revving the engine doesn't change anything.

I'm thinking this is alternator failure. I checked and the alternator was 
replaced February 2011. I wonder if my Indy will warranty it.

-Curt

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Re: [MBZ] Warning lights?

[Curt Raymond]

Oh, right. Possibility #3, enhanced by the almost completely random nature of 
the temp gauge. I've got another cluster I've been meaning to swap in to see if 
it fixed the temp gauge problem...

So I'll check for charging first, followed by changing the cluster which I 
think is easier than going after the brake sensors...

-Curt

Date: Mon, 3 Dec 2012 16:37:01 -0500
From: John Reames 
To: Mercedes Discussion List 
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Warning lights?
Message-ID: 
Content-Type: text/plain;charset=us-ascii

Bad ground somewhere.

--
John W Reames
jream...@verizon.net
Home: +14106646986
Mobile: +14437915905

On Dec 3, 2012, at 16:29, Curt Raymond  wrote:

> Any idea why the parking brake indicator, brake wear indicator and low fuel 
> indicator would all come on just randomly?
> Last night heading home in my '84 190D those three lights came on but not 
> even at full brightness. It was raining and late so I didn't troubleshoot, 
> just grabbed my 240D for today's ride to work.
> 
> I have two theories...
> 
> #1. It actually is the brake indicator. I replaced the pads and rotors a 
> couple months ago but didn't replace the wear indicators, maybe one moved and 
> is now indicating.
> 
> #2. Voltage regulator failure. Which would be a PITA, the alternator is maybe 
> 2 years ~20,000 miles ago...
> 
> My plan tonight after work is to put the multimeter on the battery which 
> should rule in or out #2. Depending on how that goes I may pull one wheel 
> real quick, I think the driver's side wheel is more likely to be a sensor 
> reading wrong, I think I remember breaking it a little...
> 
> -Curt

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Re: [MBZ] Warning lights?

[Michael Canfield]

Bad ground, loose connection on alternator, weak regulator or alternator.

Probably nothing to do with the indicators seeing other things light up.

Mike
On Dec 3, 2012 4:29 PM, "Curt Raymond"  wrote:

> Any idea why the parking brake indicator, brake wear indicator and low
> fuel indicator would all come on just randomly?
> Last night heading home in my '84 190D those three lights came on but not
> even at full brightness. It was raining and late so I didn't troubleshoot,
> just grabbed my 240D for today's ride to work.
>
> I have two theories...
>
> #1. It actually is the brake indicator. I replaced the pads and rotors a
> couple months ago but didn't replace the wear indicators, maybe one moved
> and is now indicating.
>
> #2. Voltage regulator failure. Which would be a PITA, the alternator is
> maybe 2 years ~20,000 miles ago...
>
> My plan tonight after work is to put the multimeter on the battery which
> should rule in or out #2. Depending on how that goes I may pull one wheel
> real quick, I think the driver's side wheel is more likely to be a sensor
> reading wrong, I think I remember breaking it a little...
>
> -Curt
>
> ___
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Re: [MBZ] Warning lights?

[John Reames]

Bad ground somewhere.

--
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jream...@verizon.net
Home: +14106646986
Mobile: +14437915905

On Dec 3, 2012, at 16:29, Curt Raymond  wrote:

> Any idea why the parking brake indicator, brake wear indicator and low fuel 
> indicator would all come on just randomly?
> Last night heading home in my '84 190D those three lights came on but not 
> even at full brightness. It was raining and late so I didn't troubleshoot, 
> just grabbed my 240D for today's ride to work.
> 
> I have two theories...
> 
> #1. It actually is the brake indicator. I replaced the pads and rotors a 
> couple months ago but didn't replace the wear indicators, maybe one moved and 
> is now indicating.
> 
> #2. Voltage regulator failure. Which would be a PITA, the alternator is maybe 
> 2 years ~20,000 miles ago...
> 
> My plan tonight after work is to put the multimeter on the battery which 
> should rule in or out #2. Depending on how that goes I may pull one wheel 
> real quick, I think the driver's side wheel is more likely to be a sensor 
> reading wrong, I think I remember breaking it a little...
> 
> -Curt
> 
> ___
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[MBZ] Warning lights?

[Curt Raymond]

Any idea why the parking brake indicator, brake wear indicator and low fuel 
indicator would all come on just randomly?
Last night heading home in my '84 190D those three lights came on but not even 
at full brightness. It was raining and late so I didn't troubleshoot, just 
grabbed my 240D for today's ride to work.

I have two theories...

#1. It actually is the brake indicator. I replaced the pads and rotors a couple 
months ago but didn't replace the wear indicators, maybe one moved and is now 
indicating.

#2. Voltage regulator failure. Which would be a PITA, the alternator is maybe 2 
years ~20,000 miles ago...

My plan tonight after work is to put the multimeter on the battery which should 
rule in or out #2. Depending on how that goes I may pull one wheel real quick, 
I think the driver's side wheel is more likely to be a sensor reading wrong, I 
think I remember breaking it a little...

-Curt

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