Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] 1983 NH CB 650 - need to change tires

[Kurt Nolte]

If you found cracks on the rear, check the front reaaally well, and
look for the date code on the tire. If it's old, get both!
You only have two tires, they're both critical to keeping you upright.

On Mon, Sep 16, 2019 at 12:59 PM Jenya Spektor  wrote:

> Hey Friends.
> I am sure there are topics already in existence for the topic, but wanted
> to see what you can suggest.
> I just discovered a few cracks in the side wall of my rear tire - time to
> get rid of it.
> My local shop had some questions for in order to give me a more accurate
> price (going rate is at $55 p.t.) if I am to bring the wheels to them so
> they don't have to take them off there.
> 1. Are they tubeless tires?
> 2. Which tires would you recommend - budget pick but good quality that
> lasts...
> 3. Is it relatively easy to take them off the bike?
>
> Thank you in advance.
> Yours, Jenya
>
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] The Neverending Story

[Kurt Nolte]

650 or 700?

On Sun, Apr 28, 2019 at 5:21 PM Kyle Munz  wrote:

> Do you ever get the feeling like you're getting deeper and deeper into a
> project that you have no idea how to get back out of?
>
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Rear shocks

[Kurt Nolte]

Progressive Shocks has some good stuff, decent price, and last time I used
their website they had the 750 in their product selection guide.

On Tue, Apr 2, 2019, 8:39 AM nick.tampsett via Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!
 wrote:

> Any ideas ?
>
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Starter Brushes keep burning out.

[Kurt Nolte]

If it's going to be a while for the OEM brushes, you can always pull the
cheap ones out, clean them up where they chipped, then use a file to dress
a chamfer into the edges.

It doesn't have to be deep, just enough that you aren't presenting a 90°
edge at the interface with the commutator. Hard edges like that promote
chipping and chatter.



On Sun, Nov 4, 2018, 14:12 Kyle Munz  You could be on to something there
>
> On Sun, Nov 4, 2018, 13:05 Dustin Anderson  wrote:
>
>> Real quick, just in case somebody else is having the same problem in the
>> future. I think it is the quality of the materials used in my aftermarket
>> kit. I am not using Honda OEM brushes. I rebuilt the starter, I didn't
>> replace the brass bushings just the starter brushes and o-rings, the
>> bearing and seal was still good. After I got everything back together, I
>> started the motorcycle and it started wonderfully. I then remembered that I
>> didn't but the shims back in the brush housing(?), cussed a bit then took
>> the cap off and put the shims back in, thin/thick/thin. I took a look at
>> the brushes and after one start they were already flaking apart and there
>> were little chunks of the brushes in the cap, after one start. So I think I
>> am going to maybe start the motorcycle first thing in the morning then push
>> start it till I am done with the day and order some Honda brushes. I also
>> think that is why the starter housing started getting so gouged up.
>> Hopefully I dont screw my commutator up until I get the Honda OEM brushes.
>>
>> On Thursday, October 25, 2018 at 4:02:13 PM UTC-5, Dustin Anderson wrote:
>>>
>>> Figured worth a shot.
>>>
>>> On Thu, Oct 25, 2018, 3:49 PM Kyle Munz  wrote:
>>>
 I couldn't say, I haven't had that issue. I'm guessing by the lack of
 responses nobody else has either. Sorry

 -Kyle


 On Thu, Oct 25, 2018 at 12:16 AM Dustin Anderson <
 durander.nam...@gmail.com> wrote:

> I do a lot of "go to work, then grocery store, then someplace else,
> then house" type of commuting. Is it just the constant use?
>
> On Wed, Oct 24, 2018 at 9:42 AM Kyle Munz  wrote:
>
>> I have no idea why your brushes are wearing out, but they should last
>> for thousands of miles. Have you inspected the commutator while you have 
>> it
>> out? Are there any irregularities or anything?
>>
>> -Kyle
>>
>>
>> On Mon, Oct 22, 2018 at 8:47 PM Dustin Anderson <
>> durander.nam...@gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>>> I keep having to replace the starter brushes on the Mitsiba SM-8
>>> starter. Other than me using it as my sole form of transportation, are
>>> there any reasons why the brushes would keep burning out? Is it spinning
>>> while the engine is running?
>>>
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] 1982 CX500TC

[Kurt Nolte]

I want it. But likewise, no room and no money.

On Sat, Oct 6, 2018, 03:34 Javier Garcia  wrote:

> I think this is probably a real bargain, given how rare these bikes are
> and how clean it looks. I wish I had the cash and the space to get it:
>
>
> https://lasvegas.craigslist.org/mcy/d/1982-cx500tc-vintage-bike/6694302176.html
>
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] New battery for 1983 Nighthawk

[Kurt Nolte]

X2 on the motobatt recommendation. I have those in three of my bikes.



On Thu, Aug 30, 2018, 14:47 Liam O'Leary  wrote:

> Hi,
>
> I went with this one:
>
> http://www.motobatt.com/MB12U
>
> Great battery and maintenance free.
>
> Liam
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On 30 Aug 2018, at 19:41, Jenya Spektor  wrote:
>
> Looking to replace my battery - can someone recommend a good not too
> expensive brand that fits with the stock motorcycle wiring and the battery
> compartment. Thank you!
>
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Headlight mod

[Kurt Nolte]

I'm not entirely sure what the point of this would be. More light? Low
beams don't put it where you need it when highs are on. You'd be better off
with a quality light and a relay kit to run it off the battery directly.

It will produce more heat inside the bucket, which can cause issues down
the road.


On Tue, Aug 7, 2018, 16:09 Tombo  wrote:

> Anyone ever seccuessfully perform a headlight mod where the high setting
> just adds the high beam to the low instead of switching between them?
>
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] PayPal

[Kurt Nolte]

Pulled from a verified account, paid for out of a checking account in the
US, and to a verified recipient in the US, there is no fee.

"Verified" meaning the person has linked a US bank account to their PayPal
account.

On Fri, Aug 3, 2018, 21:02  wrote:

> I believe that is correct, however you may have to specify. I transfer
> money to my daughters occasionally, and as long as they are on a list,
> there is no fee
>
> On Fri, Aug 3, 2018 at 2:56 PM, Graham Rogers 
> wrote:
>
>> I’m trying to find out if PayPal is free when a PayPal account holder
>> that is linked to his checking account sends money to another PayPal
>> account holder, a friend. I read that it is on the website but I want it
>> verified by someone’s experience. Graham
>>
>> Sent from my iPad
>>
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: So I’ve just started having a mechanical issue

[Kurt Nolte]

If any of the tricks above work, I'd still plan on pulling and cleaning the
carbs at some point. If they clog up once they can do it again, and even if
the float doesn't stick you can still get chunks in the needles.

A good cleaning, some fresh o-rings, and a new sieve filter sock in the
tank feels great, and it's not hard to do.

On Sat, May 26, 2018, 11:35 Fitz  wrote:

> Thanks for the tips y’all, I’ll get to tinkering.
>
> Cheers,
>
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Hard Bags

[Kurt Nolte]

Used.

I'm not being a smartass, but it's true.

Be ready to either spend  or fab a rack yourself, there weren't a whole
lot of options made for any of the Nighthawks, and they are scarce.

Kurt

On Wed, May 23, 2018, 00:09 Fitz  wrote:

> Hi All,
>
> I’m thinking about getting some hard bags, any recommendations that won’t
> break the bank?
>
> Cheers,
>
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Wiring front turn signals

[Kurt Nolte]

If I recall correctly, the front signals are wired as two colored pairs.
One wire will be a solid color, the other that same color with a white
stripe.

I seem to recall the striped ones as the running lights. They should have
voltage when the key is ON but not when that signal is on. Either both
solid or both striped should have voltage key on, but the others should
only have voltage one at a time with the turn signals.

If you're just using a meter, the turn signal lines won't flash. Use the
above method to separate signal from running lights.



On Sat, Apr 28, 2018, 12:03 Paul  wrote:

> Hey Gang!
>
> My son and I are working on a 1982 Goldwing Standard that he picked up
> from Craigslist this Spring. It has an old Vetter fairing, which we
> removed. We've had to purchase a headlight and turn signals to replace what
> was built into the fairing.
>
> I grabbed a wiring schematic for that model but colors don't seem to
> match. (Probably not a huge surprise for a 37-year-old motorcycle.) I have
> a voltage tester so I can turn on the ignition and see which wires have
> current to them, but the colors seem to be all mixed up. How should I
> proceed to determine what I'm dealing with?
>
>
> *Paul LeBoutillier *
> *www.hondanighthawks.net *
> Honda Nighthawk Lovers Email group
> 
>
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Wont run in gear

[Kurt Nolte]

Could be the clutch switch? If that's not closed you can't start in gear.

If it will start in neutral but dies going into gear, might be the
kickstand switch.

On Thu, Apr 19, 2018, 18:35 Derek Paquette  wrote:

> So I laid my girl down yesterday. She starts in neutral but when you put
> her in gear she stalls and she won't start with the kick stand down in
> gear. Any thoughts?
>
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Chrome bolts

[Kurt Nolte]

McMaster doesn't carry metric chrome fasteners, sadly.

SOME Ace Hardware locations stock chrome plated fasteners. The one local to
me even has metric chrome bolts!

I don't pay much attention to the chrome selection, as it's not my thing;
stainless and nickel are more my style.

Good luck!

On Sat, Apr 7, 2018, 09:42 Dave duChêne  wrote:

> Try ship supply store, or industrial supply. They have stainless too.
> Dave
>
> On 7 April 2018 at 10:13,  wrote:
>
>> Try this. http://www.allensfasteners.com/detail.asp?Product_ID=70675
>>
>> On Fri, Apr 6, 2018 at 7:19 PM, Paul  wrote:
>>
>>> Where do you guys go to get chrome bolts?
>>>
>>> My youngest son recently added a 1981 Honda GL1100 standard that he's
>>> restoring to stock to his two other Nighthawks. The Wing had an old Vetter
>>> fairing which we removed and we have since ordered and received a
>>> replacement headlight. The problem is the bolts to attach it were not
>>> included. The entire headlight is chrome so I was really hoping for some
>>> chrome bolts to match.
>>>
>>> I've been doing a lot of looking around and I've discovered that,
>>> although Chrome bolts are readily available, this particular size is pretty
>>> rare. It's a 10mm stud with a 1.25 pitch thread (10M-1.25). My local
>>> hardware store helped me confirm the size and thread but only had steel
>>> bolts in that size. HELP!! Anyone have a favorite place you go to get these
>>> babies???
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> *Paul LeBoutillier *
>>> *www.hondanighthawks.net *
>>> Honda Nighthawk Lovers Email group
>>> 
>>>
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers]

[Kurt Nolte]

Might be cheaper to pick a set of new? Aluminium adjustables have really
come down in price lately, and they make a nice upgrade.

Kurt

On Jan 12, 2018 9:21 AM, "Richard Potter"  wrote:

> Does anyone have a good clutch lever for a 700s ?
>
>
>
>[image: anaheimlogo]
>
>
>
>Rich Potter
>
>City of Anaheim
>
>Fleet Supervisor
>
>(714) 765-6813
>
>(714) 412-8241 cell
>
>(714) 765-6889 fax
>
>rpot...@anaheim.net
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
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[Nighthawk Lovers] Long shot

[Kurt Nolte]

Any of you guys aficionados of Kellogg air compressors? I need to figure
out what I have so I can get seals and stuff for it, but the serial/model
sticker is loong gone...

And yes, it's bike related: this thing is gonna help me sandblast a frame
and paint a tank and bodywork!

-Kurt

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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Cleaning and Blasting Master Cylinders

[Kurt Nolte]

I would not sand or oxide blast the part, but a softer media like walnut
shells or soda would be perfectly fine.

Definitely make sure you flush them out clean prior to assembly, or you
WILL have problems.

On Mon, Dec 25, 2017 at 7:51 PM, <9533z...@gmail.com> wrote:

> Been a while since I posted but am beginning a winter rebuild of the brake
> system on my 85 CB650SC.  I knew the system was in rough shape and needed
> to be refreshed but kept putting it off until one of the front calipers
> started locking up.  As soon as I started digging into it I realized I
> needed to go all the way with rebuilding the calipers and master cylinders
> on both the brake and clutch.  I have all the parts but I'm curious if
> anyone has basted these in order to clean them and remove the old finish.
> Just wondering if the metal is too soft for blasting and if not, any
> suggestions on the type of media to use.  Many thanks!
>
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Carb Sync Tool...

[Kurt Nolte]

If you have more than one multi-carbed bike and already do your own
maintenance, it might be worth it. My bikes get a carb sync twice a year,
just because I have the tools.

On Thu, Nov 23, 2017 at 6:02 PM, Javier Garcia  wrote:

> Where are you? Maybe you can borrow it.
>
> On Thu, Nov 23, 2017 at 2:41 PM, krunch  wrote:
>
>> Thinking about buying one. What does everyone recommend?
>>
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: LED Bulbs

[Kurt Nolte]

Wider will always be better, unless you have a tightly confined housing. In
a dash, 90° will do well to light up the whole lens and be visible.

On Nov 4, 2017 09:03, "Roger Vallve"  wrote:

> anyone know which angle is better for the dash bulb 32 or 90 degrees?
>
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: LED Bulbs

[Kurt Nolte]

I'm all good, I did this stuff years ago.

But I'm sure that'll be useful to the folks asking questions here though.

Kurt


On Nov 2, 2017 7:53 AM, "Quartermaster35"  wrote:

Kurt

Do a search for:

LED Flasher Relay ELFR-1

it should plug into your current connector and eliminate the rapid flashing


On Wednesday, November 1, 2017 at 12:26:30 PM UTC-5, Richard Potter wrote:

> I tried a led in the tail light of my 700 and it turned on the bulb out
> indicator on the dash
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Oct 27, 2017, at 9:08 PM, Roger Vallve  wrote:
>
> Just curious how it all turned out?
> I am thinking of redoing my dash in led to start.
>
>
> On Tuesday, 4 April 2017 23:19:33 UTC-4, Krunch wrote:
>>
>> Has anyone used the Slyvania Zevo LED bulbs in their signal / tail
>> lights? If so, did they flash fast? If so, is the fix a resistor or is
>> there a flash that can be replaced?
>
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Looking for: 1983-1985 CB-650-SC Right Side Cover Black

[Kurt Nolte]

Good luck. Right hand side covers are hard to find in good shape for any
bike, unless the bike is still in production or has a HUGE following.

Our mere Nighthawks? Sadly neither applies.

On Oct 17, 2017 08:30, "Fernando Valdes"  wrote:

> Hey everyone,
>
> Took Chubella (1984 CB-650-SC) to Asheville last weekend. Had a great time
> and everything went great... except in the end.
>
> As we drove back home (trailered her), the right side cover must have
> flown away with the wind and we didn't notice ;.;.
>
> So I'm in search for a good black Right Side Cover.
> If anyone has parted a nighthawk recently, or will part one in the near
> future, please let me know.
>
> Looking to pay $35 + Shipping.
>
> Thank you,
> Fernando Valdes
>
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Leaked photos

[Kurt Nolte]

Low, wide seat? Check.
Low slung, boxer engine? Check
Pegs in front of the rider, but not cruiser-style forward? Check.
Big air splitter fairings and windscreen up front? Check.
Luggage? Check.

It's a Goldwing alright.



On Oct 2, 2017 22:12, "Paul"  wrote:

> I get what you're saying Joey, but I wonder if the new design might not be
> just as comfortable for all-day touring as any other Wing. I guess we'll
> find out.
>
>
> *Paul LeBoutillier *
> *www.hondanighthawks.net *
> Honda Nighthawk Lovers Email group
> 
>
> On Mon, Oct 2, 2017 at 3:53 PM, Joey Kelley  wrote:
>
>> Pardon my gross ignorance of all things Goldwing - but I have to admit -
>> I'm with Kyle on this - it literally looks like a 1800cc version of the
>> ST1300.
>>
>> Warning: Rant ahead!
>> 
>> I don't get it - the GoldWing was / is / was supposed to be the long
>> distance touring motorcycle of choice - its supposed to have endless power
>> - endless comfort. This means that it isn't a small motorcycle, nor should
>> it be. It also means that when you add luggage - it isn't going to be the
>> smallest, lightest or easiest to maneuver bike either. But it isn't
>> supposed to be. If you want a sport tourer - go get a sport tourer.
>> I just don't understand what Honda's trying to do - make the GoldWing
>> Sexy? It isn't supposed to be Sexy - its supposed to be refined,
>> comfortable and the choice of people who know what a quality motorcycle
>> should be. Quiet, reliable and suitable for a cross country trip at the
>> drop of a hat.
>> If you want something for grinding pegs in a turn - go get a super bike -
>> if you want something to turn heads and 'be cool looking' go get a Harley.
>> If you want a comfortable bike that you can ride all day - get a Goldwing.
>> So - Honda - don't mess with the wing - make it better - but don't make
>> it something it isn't!
>> 
>> We now go back to your regularly scheduled Joey, already in progress.
>> -Joey
>>
>> -Joey Kelley
>> JoeyKelley.com - My Life Online
>> JoeyKelleyPhoto.com - Photographing Today, For Tomorrow
>>
>> On Mon, Oct 2, 2017 at 5:16 PM, Paul  wrote:
>>
>>> Looks pretty darn sexy to me! :)
>>>
>>>
>>> *Paul LeBoutillier *
>>> *www.hondanighthawks.net *
>>> Honda Nighthawk Lovers Email group
>>> 
>>>
>>> On Mon, Oct 2, 2017 at 12:26 PM, EGrider  wrote:
>>>
 Looks like a slight redesign of the F6B, doesn't it?



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For more 

Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] 84 650 electrical problem

[Kurt Nolte]

True, a weak battery can cause a lot of intermittent and random problems.

I do actually recommend everyone run AGM batteries in their bikes, I like
their longevity and stability. Tenders are a good idea too.

Kurt

On Sep 30, 2017 2:12 PM, "'mike21222' via Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!" <
nighthawk_lovers@googlegroups.com> wrote:

> I have had issues that seemed like they were electrical, chased wiring
> then later after following a recommendation from a friend and replacing the
> battery, my electrical problems magically disappeared. Since that battery I
> replaced,  only lasted me 18 months, i decided to keep a trickle charger on
> both my bikes. The only trouble I've had since then is a flasher unit. YMMV
>
>
>
> Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
>
>  Original message 
> From: Kurt Nolte <vturbine.po...@gmail.com>
> Date: 9/30/17 1:28 PM (GMT-05:00)
> To: nighthawk_lovers@googlegroups.com
> Subject: Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] 84 650 electrical problem
>
> If you now have no spark in any wire, I would guess that you have a
> problem with the 12V supply or ground for the coils. I don't think it would
> be the coils themselves, as there are two, and the likelihood they both
> fail out at once is small.
>
> The 650s have a known weakness in the fuse box and wiring to the ignition
> switch.
>
> Do you have a multimeter and a service manual? I would recommend putting
> the battery on a slow charger, then turning the switch to ON without trying
> to start the engine.
>
> You can then work your way through the wiring harness feeding the coils,
> looking for where you lose voltage.
>
> Kurt
>
> On Sep 29, 2017 14:38, "logan vandam" <loganvan...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> Hey, first time posting on here have read through a lot of these and
>> they've been a lot of help. So here's the problem I'm having bike was
>> running well. I am in Montana and we were having a very hot dry smokey
>> summer and I went away for a weekend and it decided to down pour the whole
>> time and seeing no rain in the future I didn't cover my bike. When I got
>> back it started up a little rough I assumed it was just because it was a
>> little colder and hasn't ran for a couple days. Next day didn't wanna start
>> little battery boost and draining the carbs it started up. Went to work.
>> Got off. Kinda the same method it started was warming it up and then it
>> died. No luck. Sat in a parking lot until I had a day off. Last Sunday came
>> down blew out all the spark plugs. Found a fray in one cap. Through testing
>> found it had to be in the right position to start. Ordered a replacement
>> cap that came last night, replaced it today and now I have no spark in any
>> of the wires. Not sure what's going on. Decided to take a break get coffee
>> because it's becoming frustrating and need to charge the battery. So if
>> anyone has any idea what's going on any help would be much appreciated.
>> Logan
>>
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Digest for nighthawk_lovers@googlegroups.com - 14 updates in 5 topics

[Kurt Nolte]

Could be a number of things:

Bought and parked.
Replaced/swapped out the cluster at some point
It's so high mileage it's actually rolled over
And so on.

On Sep 29, 2017 17:14, "paul mangan"  wrote:

Hi guys got this photo from a seller ofor an 83450cc hawk who says this
is what's on the clock ...kind of puzzled as to how it could be so
little...anyone got any suggestions as to why ...or is it too big a
mystory. ?
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] 84 650 electrical problem

[Kurt Nolte]

If you now have no spark in any wire, I would guess that you have a problem
with the 12V supply or ground for the coils. I don't think it would be the
coils themselves, as there are two, and the likelihood they both fail out
at once is small.

The 650s have a known weakness in the fuse box and wiring to the ignition
switch.

Do you have a multimeter and a service manual? I would recommend putting
the battery on a slow charger, then turning the switch to ON without trying
to start the engine.

You can then work your way through the wiring harness feeding the coils,
looking for where you lose voltage.

Kurt

On Sep 29, 2017 14:38, "logan vandam"  wrote:

> Hey, first time posting on here have read through a lot of these and
> they've been a lot of help. So here's the problem I'm having bike was
> running well. I am in Montana and we were having a very hot dry smokey
> summer and I went away for a weekend and it decided to down pour the whole
> time and seeing no rain in the future I didn't cover my bike. When I got
> back it started up a little rough I assumed it was just because it was a
> little colder and hasn't ran for a couple days. Next day didn't wanna start
> little battery boost and draining the carbs it started up. Went to work.
> Got off. Kinda the same method it started was warming it up and then it
> died. No luck. Sat in a parking lot until I had a day off. Last Sunday came
> down blew out all the spark plugs. Found a fray in one cap. Through testing
> found it had to be in the right position to start. Ordered a replacement
> cap that came last night, replaced it today and now I have no spark in any
> of the wires. Not sure what's going on. Decided to take a break get coffee
> because it's becoming frustrating and need to charge the battery. So if
> anyone has any idea what's going on any help would be much appreciated.
> Logan
>
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Nighthawk S Blue - Paint Code ??

[Kurt Nolte]

I have not had very good luck with Vistaprint decals outdoors. They may
have improved in recent times, but maybe not.

On Sep 28, 2017 23:46, "Matt Awesome"  wrote:

> I don't know much about auto decals...
>
> But that seems attrociously high. Vistaprint will make you a 12"x18"
> sheet for $9 of whatever you want. Looks like it should be under $50
> for the whole bike. Probably other places that'll do custom vinyl
> printing and cutting work for you on larger form factors.
>
> I don't suppose you or anyone has a high res digital version of this?
> I'd make some myself if so.
>
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Classic bike

[Kurt Nolte]

I do love a good Bonnie. Is that a T100? Two tone paint looks like it.



On Thu, Aug 17, 2017 at 12:20 AM, Paul  wrote:

> A friend of mine grabbed me this evening and wanted to show off his latest
> "garage find." A 1999 Triumph Bonneville in incredible condition. He bought
> it from the original owner who parted with it for $3900. It's really in
> stunning condition. Thought you folks might enjoy seeing it.
>
>
>
>
>
> *Paul LeBoutillier *
> *www.hondanighthawks.net *
> Honda Nighthawk Lovers Email group
> 
>
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Wiring newbie... Blinkers not blinking???

[Kurt Nolte]

Shouldn't affect your front signals then.

You can double check, but unless they are completely wrong _and_ your
fronts have lost their signal elements, I'd still be willing to bet that
you're losing your flasher relay.

On Aug 14, 2017 09:21, "Wil Turner" <wildturn...@gmail.com> wrote:

> Yes, from the signals to the first bullet connectors there in the tail.
>
> On Aug 14, 2017 9:15 AM, "Kurt Nolte" <vturbine.po...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> When you rewired the connectors, which ones do you mean? The connectors
>> at the signals themselves?
>>
>> On Aug 14, 2017 08:29, "Wil Turner" <wildturn...@gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>>> Thanks.
>>>
>>> I actually rewired the connectors, so I'm not sure that's what it would
>>> be. Could be that I possibly rewired them wrong, though. It was confusing
>>> because someone had obviously been in there before, and there were colors
>>> that were not originally in there.
>>>
>>> On Aug 14, 2017 8:24 AM, "Dave duChêne" <duchen...@gmail.com> wrote:
>>>
>>>> might be dirty connections (under the seat)
>>>> Dave
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> <https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email_source=link_campaign=sig-email_content=webmail>
>>>>  Virus-free.
>>>> www.avast.com
>>>> <https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email_source=link_campaign=sig-email_content=webmail>
>>>> <#m_-8524302000674773084_m_7873473837338122458_m_-8106512687570330801_m_-1401165947909475617_DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2>
>>>>
>>>> On 14 August 2017 at 09:13, Wil Turner <wildturn...@gmail.com> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> So a few months ago I noticed my blinkers would refuse to blink every
>>>>> now and then. When I hit the right or left button it would simply turn off
>>>>> the front right or left blinker. The two rear blinkers will not come on.
>>>>> Now it does this all the time.
>>>>>
>>>>> Is this a bulb or wiring issue?
>>>>>
>>>>> --
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Wiring newbie... Blinkers not blinking???

[Kurt Nolte]

When you rewired the connectors, which ones do you mean? The connectors at
the signals themselves?

On Aug 14, 2017 08:29, "Wil Turner"  wrote:

> Thanks.
>
> I actually rewired the connectors, so I'm not sure that's what it would
> be. Could be that I possibly rewired them wrong, though. It was confusing
> because someone had obviously been in there before, and there were colors
> that were not originally in there.
>
> On Aug 14, 2017 8:24 AM, "Dave duChêne"  wrote:
>
>> might be dirty connections (under the seat)
>> Dave
>>
>>
>> 
>>  Virus-free.
>> www.avast.com
>> 
>> <#m_-8106512687570330801_m_-1401165947909475617_DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2>
>>
>> On 14 August 2017 at 09:13, Wil Turner  wrote:
>>
>>> So a few months ago I noticed my blinkers would refuse to blink every
>>> now and then. When I hit the right or left button it would simply turn off
>>> the front right or left blinker. The two rear blinkers will not come on.
>>> Now it does this all the time.
>>>
>>> Is this a bulb or wiring issue?
>>>
>>> --
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>>
>>
>>
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Wiring newbie... Blinkers not blinking???

[Kurt Nolte]

If neither side works it is probably the flasher relay.

The stock front lights are dual filament bulbs, one for signal and one for
the running light. The front running light shutting off when you signal is
normal.

It is unlikely that you would lose all four turn signal bulbs at once,
especially with an intermittent failure.

Both turn signal circuits are fed by the same wire coming from the signal
relay and going until the turn signal switch. You can check the connector
at the left hand handlebar pod for corrosion or a loose fit. Do the same at
the signal relay connector.

Do you have a multimeter or ohm meter? You can use that to check the wiring
from relay to switch as well.

Kurt


On Aug 14, 2017 08:13, "Wil Turner"  wrote:

So a few months ago I noticed my blinkers would refuse to blink every now
and then. When I hit the right or left button it would simply turn off the
front right or left blinker. The two rear blinkers will not come on. Now it
does this all the time.

Is this a bulb or wiring issue?

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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] 17" rear wheel swap

[Kurt Nolte]

Where are you? I have a clean 750 I'm looking to part with.

Kurt

On Aug 7, 2017 22:38, "Matt Stanfield"  wrote:

> Kurt- thanks for the response. I'll post more if I find anything out.
> Gotta find a bike first; several great options close by.
>
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] 17" rear wheel swap

[Kurt Nolte]

I looked and looked for mine, no real luck. The offset for the shaft makes
it tough.

The NT700 swap works on a 700s, but I don't know how similar their
swingarms are.

If the swingarms are similar enough the NT swap should work. Otherwise we
are back to square 1.

Kurt

On Aug 7, 2017 12:50 PM, "Matt Stanfield"  wrote:

> Greetings all!
> I bought and rebuilt  an 85 650 (CB650SC) a
> few years ago.
>
> Sold it and now regret it. So... looking or another! One question I can't
> seem to find any info on... does a 17" rear wheel exist that is a direct
> swap? The shaft drive makes things tricky. On my old Nighthawk I always
> wanted a 17" and now I'm planning/scheming. I've heard of a swap with the
> NT700... but that's an expensive experiment if it fails!
>
> Thanks!
> Matt
>
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] 1985 Nighthawk 750S Electrical Conversion

[Kurt Nolte]

Not to knock you or the project, but... I don't think you're going to find
the fun that will inspire you to keep going with that setup. Or maybe you
will, dunno. Four tired lead acid starter batteries aren't going to give
much range with a brushed motor, keep that in mind too. I don't know how
far you want it to go, but I can't imagine that setup being good for more
than 5-10 miles TOPS, and you'll be charging for a long time with it.

My own conversion plan uses LEAF battery modules, I have them laid out in
four blocks of 4 that I can connect in series to keep current demands down.
BMS, good sine wave brushless controller, I'm hoping to see a good 70 miles
highway range so I can commute to the office and back on a charge. As a
side effect of the layout it'll end up looking like I stuffed a Goldwing
engine in a Nighthawk, if I fab up some covers.

Kurt

On Thu, Jul 6, 2017 at 11:30 AM, Matt Awesome 
wrote:

> > I would recommend that you find a Honda service manual for the bike. It
> will have all the gear ratios you're asking for, as well as wiring
> diagrams, suspension information, and other useful info.
>
> Do PDFs of this exist or do I need to pay for a paper copy? Wiring diagram
> would be helpful.
>
> > What batteries are you planning to use? What voltage motor? Brushed,
> brushless?
>
> I'll probably upgrade it in stages. I have issues with completion on
> projects, so, simpler is better. Then as it works, and I enjoy it more, I
> consider upgrading the parts that are annoying to me.
>
> I paid $20 for the bike, so, I'm going super-cheap, consequence-free
> tinkering. Motor will almost certainly be an old brushed unit from a
> forklift (either a small drive motor or a bigger lift motor), or a golf
> cart, overvolted 2-4 times (they're industrial and can usually handle this
> just fine). Batteries will probably be lead acid at first, and not even
> deep-cycle, just regular starter batteries because they're $10 at the
> junkyard and worth that much in scrap metal when they eventually fart out.
> I'll probably burn out a battery a month but, if it's still fun then
> that'll be one of the first things I'll upgrade.
>
> Voltage, depends on the motor I find (I'll match batteries to motor) and
> its RPM range. With lead-acid's there's not going to be room for more than
> probably 4, so, anywhere from 12v-48v.
>
>

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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] 1985 Nighthawk 750S Electrical Conversion

[Kurt Nolte]

>From my own exploration for my 650, which is also shaft driven, connecting
the motor to the driveshaft is going to be a little tricky w/ out the
transmission. It's a fairly tight space, and any motor with some oomph was
going to be a decent diameter to fit in the frame.

Ultimately I decided that I was going to eliminate the driveshaft entirely,
and run a hub motor in the rear. There is a company called Enertrac that
builds one that is designed to be laced into a rim, and as an added bonus
they give you mounting bosses for a rear disc brake AND offer engineering
and design services with purchase for a holding bracket to keep the hub
stationary.

My plan is to build a plate to go in the final drive housing that will let
me bolt the motor to it, then run the HV cabling (I'm going to run mine @
120V to keep the current requirements down) and the COOLING LINES (because
they offer a watercooled version) down the driveshaft tube, which removes
my need to figure out alignment of motor and driveshaft and as an added
bonus will let me run taller rear shocks to get a little tighter steering
and more of an adventure bike look.

Kurt

On Thu, Jul 6, 2017 at 10:27 AM, Tommy Hill  wrote:

> Would you consider selling the right side panel?
>
> When I get home, I'd be glad to ride mine and tell you the exact RPMs at
> the speeds you request.
>
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] 1985 Nighthawk 750S Electrical Conversion

[Kurt Nolte]

Welcome! I have a very slow going similar project with a 650.

I would recommend that you find a Honda service manual for the bike. It
will have all the gear ratios you're asking for, as well as wiring
diagrams, suspension information, and other useful info.

What batteries are you planning to use? What voltage motor? Brushed,
brushless?

On Jul 6, 2017 05:45,  wrote:

Hi everyone,

I bought my first motorbike the other day, a 750s with a partially
disassembled (and probably broken?) motor.

I am a complete novice. I don't have a bike license yet, I've never even
sat on a motorbike before. Engines are black magic to me except the barest
basics. For example, I didn't even known until after I'd bought it that the
model numbers for bikes denote their CC displacement. Like I said, novice.
Electrical things I understand better.

Some have pointed out that it is quite big for a beginner bike, and quite
large for an electrical conversion. Oh well.

I've been keeping an eye out for a cheap donor bike to convert to
electrical on the cheap (junk forklift or golf kart parts) for light
commuting. But mostly, for a project.

I have a feeling what I'm doing is sacrilege to most of you, but, for
proper context, I got the bike for $20 total. Yes, $20... total. The reason
I picked this bike from all others in that 15 minutes of classifies
shopping is because... *it was $20 total*. It could have been any model or
style of any bike, I'd never heard of or been able to identify a Honda from
a Harley without reading the nameplate. I'm not a bike (or car) fan, I just
had an idea "I want to convert an old bike with a blown motor into an
electric bike" and then looked, and then found one being parted out. Jumped
right in. That said, I do love how it looks and feels.

The former owner tried to fix it up as a project bike but is old and
retired and has 3 other bikes and just wanted it gone, so he'd already
started parting it out. Exhaust and some other bits were already gone. So,
please don't bite my head off, I've already rescued it and I haven't a hope
of diagnosing or reassembling the motor. I can barely identify and count
which parts are cylinders.

I figured this is probably, if nothing else, different than what many of
you have seen before. So, hopefully I can trade progress pics for advice.
I'm pretty clueless.

My first question, so I can start to plan for a motor and batteries.. Any
idea how fast the tranny output range is, or the shaft:wheel RPM ratio, or,
anything for me to figure out the speed I'll need to turn the shaft? (I'll
probably throw away the motor and tranny and couple directly to the output
shaft if the numbers ballpark correctly. Electric motors have bottomless
torque, electric car conversions are usually started and left in 3rd gear).
If I have to keep the tranny, I imagine it's going to be a hell of a time
with a sawzall to cut off the motor side of things and find some way to
interface with however the motor spinning bits turn the transmission
spinning bits.

Here she is/was:



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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] 1982 cb450sc nighthawk, what are my options as far as carbs?

[Kurt Nolte]

Wait, why can't you buy a new jet? They aren't unique to that bike, as long
as you know the carb manufacturer and the size you can just order them from
wherever.

Do you have a 450 manual? It should tell you the jet size. IIRC those would
be Keihin carbs, so you can look up your main or slow jet size then go to a
place like jetsrus.com (yeah, it's a real thing) and get them for $6-8
each. Even the real deal jets are in that price range, so you don't have to
guess at compatibility.

Looking at the fiche you look like you need a #115 main and a #38 slow, so
you can get them both here: hhttp://
jetsrus.com/a_jet_kit_street/honda_450_CB450SC_1986.html


Kurt





On Wed, Jul 5, 2017 at 6:45 PM,  wrote:

> Ive noticed that you cannot exactly buy a new jet for my year (lucky me)
> so I'm asking if anyone knows any carbs that fit my bike from a different
> bike, or a new set of carbs altogether that would also fit. If not, I'm
> going to try my hand at rebuilding them (this is my first bike, so all my
> experience is with fuel injected cars) so any info would help:) Also, I'll
> sell my headlight off of it to anyone who needs one, as well as some of the
> other parts I have from a 78 400 hondamatic parts bike that the owner of my
> cb gave me for free. Thanks guys
>
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Charging problems CBX650E

[Kurt Nolte]

It wouldn't help low speed CHARGING, because you aren't doing any. At low
RPM the regulator and stator aren't producing the voltage necessary for any
positive current flow into the system; you're running off your battery.

Reducing loads will, of course, extend the life of a battery charge, but
most "drop in" LED or HID lighting kits produce terrible light placement,
and can actually HURT your ability to see at night.

There are some units designed to completely replace a headlight, optics and
all. If the CBX has a sealed beam style light you can very easily run one
of those, and I know from personal experience the light output and spread
is excellent, and the quality on the Truck-Lite branded version is high.

Kurt

On Jul 5, 2017 08:14, "Germdog"  wrote:

> Wouldn't changing to an Led headlight reduce current draw on battery
> significantly, improving low speed charging? I'm thinking of doing it but
> want advice on which bulb to go with. Anyone have experience with that?
>
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Left side engine cover o-ring... Not available?

[Kurt Nolte]

Take the dimensions listed to an industrial supply house or someplace like
McMaster-Carr and find one that's close. A little thicker is generally
better than thinner, but don't go nuts with it and try to match it as
closely as you can.



On Mon, Jun 26, 2017 at 8:39 AM, Wil Turner  wrote:

> I have a drip of oil flowing out of my left side engine cover. Seems to
> me, the most logical reason is the o-ring that seals it! Problem is, it
> seems every website I check lists this item as not available! Where can I
> find it? Or what can I use instead?
>
> Part 91312-ME5-003
>
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Charging problems CBX650E

[Kurt Nolte]

What Dave said. The regulators in older Honda bikes (and others) are not
set up for full voltage down low. They are effectively voltage reducers,
with no way to "boost" the output of the alternator.


On Jun 26, 2017 06:49, "Dave duChêne"  wrote:

> These bikes do not charge at low RPM, drop down a gear to keep the revs up.
> Dave
>
> On 26 June 2017 at 07:33, Per Lading  wrote:
>
>> Hi,
>>
>> I'm experiencing problems with my Honda CBX.
>>
>> When Idling, it has only just under 12 volt current, - when 3000 rpm, it
>> has 14,5 volt.
>> So when I'm having small slow tours, I often risk that there is not
>> enough power to start.
>>
>> I seem to have tried everything...
>>
>> 1: I measured if any "ground" connection from the stators yellow wires -
>> no problems.
>> 2: I measured the rectifier for direction - no problems.
>> 3: I checked every connection on wires - just fine.
>> 4: I checked if the stator rotor becomes magnetic when I switch on the
>> ignition - It does
>>
>> What do I miss? - And where can the problem be??
>> Any advice is welcome :-)
>>
>> Kind regards,
>>
>> Per Lading, Denmark
>>
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] A second nighthawk in the house... '95 750 joins the '85 700s --- WHAT TIRES for the '95 750?

[Kurt Nolte]

I'd replace both, or at least check to see how old the front is by date
code.

I'm not personally a fan of the Bridgestones, but I'm not going to knock
them as a bad tire. I just like my Michelins too much.

Kurt

On Jun 19, 2017 13:46,  wrote:

> Good idea... but only need the rear one...
>
> On Friday, June 16, 2017 at 10:22:06 PM UTC-4, kiwinPA wrote:
>>
>>
>> Get two..
>>
>> On Fri, Jun 16, 2017 at 8:08 PM  wrote:
>>
>>> Just rode a 1995 750 home about 40 miles... going straight to the tire
>>> store... any recommendations?
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] 2002 Nighthawk 750 stater noise?

[Kurt Nolte]

Double check your oil level, and make sure your chain is clean and not too
tight.

Mine made a distinct ticking noise when I had the chain tightened too much.

Kurt

On Jun 18, 2017 08:58, "Michael"  wrote:

> I took it for another ride, no noise now shifts fine.  I will just keep an
> eye on it for issues. Thanks all.
>
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Fuel Hoses

[Kurt Nolte]

Dealer probably didn't have any bulk hose in stock, OR wanted you to order
an OEM.

A while back I bought a couple meters of 4, 6, & 10mm hose to make up
replacements. A little pricy, but they are the correct sizes so they are
less likely to leak.

Kurt

On Jun 18, 2017 07:18, "Tommy Hill"  wrote:

> Not worth mentioning that I know of. I and many here have done just what
> you did. No issues.
>
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: No stop light on 2001 CB250 Nighthawk

[Kurt Nolte]

OH! You lost the end cap.

I was trying to figure out how you lost the adjuster when the axle runs
through it!

Those are cheap and easy to replace. Make sure you replace both nuts, and
give the threads a good looking over too.

I replaced the whole adjuster assembly when I bought mine, because some
chucklehead rammed 1/4-20 nuts down onto the threaded shaft.

Kurt

On Jun 17, 2017 07:39, "Happy Home"  wrote:

> Adjusting block came off - gone gone gone.  Both nuts gone, and just a
> gaping hole at the end of the frame with the adjusting screw pointing af.
>
> On Wednesday, June 7, 2017 at 6:08:17 AM UTC-4, Happy Home wrote:
>>
>> Of course I should have caught this in pre-ride inspections -- alas, I
>> was focused on obtaining the annual state inspection (I guess there's a
>> reason why they do these things), I went there, and the nice fellow said,
>> "I'm sorry, there's no way this will pass."
>>
>> I tried the obvious, and checked the bulb -- it's o.k.
>>
>> Neither hand lever nor foot lever activate the light.
>>
>> There are only two fuses on the bike, and the one that feeds the stop
>> light also feeds a bunch of other lights, and those all work.
>>
>> What typically goes wrong to cause no stoplight on these bikes, when the
>> bulb and fuse are o.k. ?
>>
>> Thank you.
>>
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: No stop light on 2001 CB250 Nighthawk

[Kurt Nolte]

Sounds like a loose ground then, glad it was easy.

Adjusting block came OFF, as in not there, or as in no nut or lock nut?

On Jun 16, 2017 14:14, "Happy Home"  wrote:

> Thanks all !!!
>
> As it turns out, there was a problem with the group where the circuit
> combines with the turn signal -- or so the tech told me -- in any case, it
> couldn't have been too hard because they only charged me $25 to find it and
> repair it.
>
> A far greater problem was that the left chain adjustment block had
> vibrated completely off -- missing.  Embarrassing that we did not catch
> that on the pre-ride check.
>
>
>
> On Wednesday, June 7, 2017 at 6:08:17 AM UTC-4, Happy Home wrote:
>>
>> Of course I should have caught this in pre-ride inspections -- alas, I
>> was focused on obtaining the annual state inspection (I guess there's a
>> reason why they do these things), I went there, and the nice fellow said,
>> "I'm sorry, there's no way this will pass."
>>
>> I tried the obvious, and checked the bulb -- it's o.k.
>>
>> Neither hand lever nor foot lever activate the light.
>>
>> There are only two fuses on the bike, and the one that feeds the stop
>> light also feeds a bunch of other lights, and those all work.
>>
>> What typically goes wrong to cause no stoplight on these bikes, when the
>> bulb and fuse are o.k. ?
>>
>> Thank you.
>>
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RE: [Nighthawk Lovers] 2002 Nighthawk 750 seems to miss at steady speeds.

[Kurt Nolte]

The tach is a known, separate problem with the tach itself. Don't try
relying on it for troubleshooting.

Good acceleration and good idle, but poor steady state, wouldn't be an
ignition issue I wouldn't think. I'm by no means a carb expert, but if it's
popping under steady state operation that sounds like fuel.

How many miles?

On Jun 13, 2017 09:18, "Michael"  wrote:

It runs better after the dealer worked on it.  Before it was really bad so
much that the previous owner had to ride with the choke on all the time.
It was dumping gas into the crankcase and the dealer was able to stop that
issue by rebuilding all the carbs and syncing them and replacing the oil
and filter.  It's starts fine idles fine acceleration is great. Just when I
am going about 45 or steady speeds I can hear it sound like it's missing
and the power seems weak for a 750cc bike.  I also have a tach issue where
it jumps on then off bouncing around. I could have a bad tach or bad ICM
not sure yet.  I'm thinking something in the electrical for the missing at
steady speeds issue.  The bike sat for a long time under a cover in the
guys garage. Very clean bike looks new but suffers from not being stored
properly.

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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] 2002 750 Nighthawk valve cover question?

[Kurt Nolte]

If it's an active leak you might be better off removing the valve cover and
replacing the seal. 2002 means there are still plenty of parts available.

GASKET, CYL HD CVR 12391-MJ1-761

-Kurt

On Jun 9, 2017 07:06, "Michael"  wrote:

> Hello,  my front left valve cover seems to be leaking after riding for a
> while I am finding a small amount of oil on the left cylinder fin after
> returning from a ride.   I was able to tighten the valve cover bolt 1/8
> inch but have not ran the motor yet.  I'm hoping it's going to stop.  Any
> suggestions? Thank you
>
> Mike
>
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: No stop light on 2001 CB250 Nighthawk

[Kurt Nolte]

Good point from Kyle's comment.

Would also apply to the front brake switch. Isn't the 250 equipped with a
front drum?

On Jun 8, 2017 14:27, "Kyle Munz"  wrote:

> If the foot switch defaults to normally closed it would leave the brake
> light illuminated all the time, which could be mistaken for the taillight
> if you never see it dim/brighten.
>
>
> -Kyle
>
> On Thu, Jun 8, 2017 at 1:11 PM, Keith Fougere 
> wrote:
>
>> unlikely that both hand and foot switches went bad at the same time - i
>> would suspect a bad connection somewhere in the harness
>>
>>
>> On Wednesday, June 7, 2017 at 6:08:17 AM UTC-4, Happy Home wrote:
>>>
>>> Of course I should have caught this in pre-ride inspections -- alas, I
>>> was focused on obtaining the annual state inspection (I guess there's a
>>> reason why they do these things), I went there, and the nice fellow said,
>>> "I'm sorry, there's no way this will pass."
>>>
>>> I tried the obvious, and checked the bulb -- it's o.k.
>>>
>>> Neither hand lever nor foot lever activate the light.
>>>
>>> There are only two fuses on the bike, and the one that feeds the stop
>>> light also feeds a bunch of other lights, and those all work.
>>>
>>> What typically goes wrong to cause no stoplight on these bikes, when the
>>> bulb and fuse are o.k. ?
>>>
>>> Thank you.
>>>
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] No stop light on 2001 CB250 Nighthawk

[Kurt Nolte]

I don't own a 250, but if the connection for the brake light uses those
little "bullet" type connectors make sure they're tight, both power and
ground.

Do you have a voltmeter or multimeter?

On Jun 8, 2017 07:45, "Happy Home" <i812a...@gmail.com> wrote:

> Yes, all the other lights work, including the tail light.
>
> I will check the connection under the seat, thank you.
>
>
> On Wednesday, June 7, 2017 at 6:50:29 AM UTC-4, Kurt Nolte wrote:
>>
>> Does your taillight work? If you don't have any light at all back there,
>> start by making sure it's still plugged in. Usually that's under the seat.
>>
>> Also check the ground connection asset the frame. Clean it and make sure
>> it's secured.
>>
>> On Jun 7, 2017 06:08, "Happy Home" <i812...@gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>>> Of course I should have caught this in pre-ride inspections -- alas, I
>>> was focused on obtaining the annual state inspection (I guess there's a
>>> reason why they do these things), I went there, and the nice fellow said,
>>> "I'm sorry, there's no way this will pass."
>>>
>>> I tried the obvious, and checked the bulb -- it's o.k.
>>>
>>> Neither hand lever nor foot lever activate the light.
>>>
>>> There are only two fuses on the bike, and the one that feeds the stop
>>> light also feeds a bunch of other lights, and those all work.
>>>
>>> What typically goes wrong to cause no stoplight on these bikes, when the
>>> bulb and fuse are o.k. ?
>>>
>>> Thank you.
>>>
>>> --
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>>> Groups "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!" group.
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] No stop light on 2001 CB250 Nighthawk

[Kurt Nolte]

Does your taillight work? If you don't have any light at all back there,
start by making sure it's still plugged in. Usually that's under the seat.

Also check the ground connection asset the frame. Clean it and make sure
it's secured.

On Jun 7, 2017 06:08, "Happy Home"  wrote:

> Of course I should have caught this in pre-ride inspections -- alas, I was
> focused on obtaining the annual state inspection (I guess there's a reason
> why they do these things), I went there, and the nice fellow said, "I'm
> sorry, there's no way this will pass."
>
> I tried the obvious, and checked the bulb -- it's o.k.
>
> Neither hand lever nor foot lever activate the light.
>
> There are only two fuses on the bike, and the one that feeds the stop
> light also feeds a bunch of other lights, and those all work.
>
> What typically goes wrong to cause no stoplight on these bikes, when the
> bulb and fuse are o.k. ?
>
> Thank you.
>
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: 1985 CB650 Idle Mixture screws?

[Kurt Nolte]

I bought the needle variety. Less expensive, and for something I'm not
going to be using _constantly_ I figured it would be fine.

This is the one I bought:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004MSJ7E6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8=1

Seems well made enough, and it is a four bank.

You can get a two bank one and then just sync each carb in turn, paired up
with your reference cylinder (usually #2, if I recall correctly).

Kurt

On Sat, Jun 3, 2017 at 7:37 AM, EGrider  wrote:

> Kurt, do you have any recommendations on sync tools liquid vs. needle
> type? I need one that would sync both 4-cylinder and 2-cylinder bikes.
> Thanks.
>
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] 1985 CB650 Idle Mixture screws?

[Kurt Nolte]

I invested in a 4 gauge sync tool. It's useful, and they aren't too
expensive. I usually made sure mine were in sync twice a year, since I rode
year round.

If the climate where you are warrants storage, I'd sync them when you bring
it out of storage, then maybe mid-season. It doesn't take long, and it can
give you a heads-up on potential problems that might be building.

Kurt

On Jun 2, 2017 09:01, "Tyler Garman" <tylerpgar...@gmail.com> wrote:

> Thanks Kurt,
>
> I did a manual bench sync, though it is the first time I've done that and
> may not have done it correctly. I was hoping to get it to the shop and have
> the pros do a dynamic sync when i'm all done.
>
> On Thursday, June 1, 2017 at 3:26:56 PM UTC-4, Kurt Nolte wrote:
>>
>> The mixture screws should be on the throats between the bowls and the
>> head.
>>
>> When you reinstalled them, did you synch them? That can produce similar
>> issues.
>>
>> Kurt
>>
>> On Jun 1, 2017 15:11, "Richard Potter" <rpo...@anaheim.net> wrote:
>>
>>> When you cleaned them you should have found a brass screw with
>>>
>>> A spring on each carb . that will be your mixture screw
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> *From:* nighthaw...@googlegroups.com [mailto:nighthaw...@googlegrou
>>> ps.com] *On Behalf Of *Tyler Garman
>>> *Sent:* Thursday, June 01, 2017 11:43 AM
>>> *To:* Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers! <nighthaw...@googlegroups.com>
>>> *Subject:* [Nighthawk Lovers] 1985 CB650 Idle Mixture screws?
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> I took off all 4 carbs and cleaned them all up thoroughly, changed the
>>> oil and filter, air filter, and put it all back together. The bike starts
>>> great and idles right around 1100rpm. Initially i tried to give it some gas
>>> and it sputtered and died. started again and let it warm up for a few
>>> minutes with the choke all the way off. I was able to give it some gas and
>>> got a good response, but still get a slight stutter when I initially roll
>>> on the throttle. I'd like to adjust the idle mixture on the carbs as to me
>>> this indicates it is running a bit lean. I've done some research and looked
>>> all over the carbs and have not found anything that obviously looks like a
>>> screw to adjust the mixture.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Does anyone know if/where on my '85 650 where I might find adjustments
>>> for the idle mixture?\
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> thanks for your time!
>>>
>>> --
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>>> CONFIDENTIAL, AND EXEMPT FROM DISCLOSURE UNDER APPLICABLE LAWS. If the
>>> reader of this message is not the intended recipient, or the employee or
>>> agent responsible for delivering the message to the intended recipient, you
>>> are hereby notified that any dissemination, distribution, forwarding, or
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] 2002 CB 750 Nighthawk Shocks

[Kurt Nolte]

Not hard at all, at least if you have the center stand and can unload the
rear suspension. Pull the seat, a bolt up top, another at the bottom, and
remove.

The usual suspects supply their usual quality. Progressive Suspension has a
direct fit set that works fairly well, can't recall the part number off the
top of my head.

Kurt

On Jun 2, 2017 07:28, "Michael"  wrote:

Hey all, is it hard to replace old shocks on my 2002 CB 750 Nighthawk?  Any
recommendations on type of shock and cost?

Thank you!

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RE: [Nighthawk Lovers] 1985 CB650 Idle Mixture screws?

[Kurt Nolte]

The mixture screws should be on the throats between the bowls and the head.

When you reinstalled them, did you synch them? That can produce similar
issues.

Kurt

On Jun 1, 2017 15:11, "Richard Potter"  wrote:

> When you cleaned them you should have found a brass screw with
>
> A spring on each carb . that will be your mixture screw
>
>
>
> *From:* nighthawk_lovers@googlegroups.com [mailto:nighthawk_lovers@
> googlegroups.com] *On Behalf Of *Tyler Garman
> *Sent:* Thursday, June 01, 2017 11:43 AM
> *To:* Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers! 
> *Subject:* [Nighthawk Lovers] 1985 CB650 Idle Mixture screws?
>
>
>
> I took off all 4 carbs and cleaned them all up thoroughly, changed the oil
> and filter, air filter, and put it all back together. The bike starts great
> and idles right around 1100rpm. Initially i tried to give it some gas and
> it sputtered and died. started again and let it warm up for a few minutes
> with the choke all the way off. I was able to give it some gas and got a
> good response, but still get a slight stutter when I initially roll on the
> throttle. I'd like to adjust the idle mixture on the carbs as to me this
> indicates it is running a bit lean. I've done some research and looked all
> over the carbs and have not found anything that obviously looks like a
> screw to adjust the mixture.
>
>
>
> Does anyone know if/where on my '85 650 where I might find adjustments for
> the idle mixture?\
>
>
>
> thanks for your time!
>
> --
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> reader of this message is not the intended recipient, or the employee or
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: New Nighthawk Owner 2002 750 Black

[Kurt Nolte]

No tach cable on a 2002, it's all electronic.

If your tach jumps about or acts erratically, it could be a dirty
connection, but it is also possibly a failed capacitor in the circuit
inside the housing. This can be fixed, but it's not a novice task.

X2 on the carb cleaning. You can try an in-place cleaner like seafoam. In
my experience almost every used bike can benefit from a carb cleaning,
re-synch and going over after purchase.

You can adjust the preload on the rear springs, but at fifteen years old be
ready to put new ones one. Progressive Suspension makes nice ones.



On Jun 1, 2017 10:52, "Keith Fougere"  wrote:

> Try lubricating the tach cable - also maybe some graphite powder in the
> bottom of the tach where the cable attaches.
>
> rough running and poor performance at less than WOT indicates that a carb
> cleaning is in your future X4
>
> On Thursday, June 1, 2017 at 9:02:07 AM UTC-4, Michael wrote:
>>
>> Hello all I just bought a used 2002 Honda Nighthawk, its in good
>> condition but I am having several issues and wanted to get your advice.
>>  1st. The tach will only bounce around and be erratic does it need replace
>> or maybe a fuse or connection issue.  2nd At steady speeds the bike runs
>> rough and acceleration is weak until I wind it up to shift.  3rd seems very
>> hard over bumps so I'm not sure if the shocks are set up hard or need
>> adjusted.  Thanks for your advice!
>
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: 700s or 750s style fairing/windshield for '85 650?

[Kurt Nolte]

Another option would be the Rifle Nightflight fairing. I see them on eBay
from time to time.



On May 13, 2017 09:48, "Paul Bellefontaine"  wrote:

> Wil, I have a spitfire windshield on my 83 CB650SC ! you can get them on
> ebay for around $80.00 I think they work great and they look good too. !
>
> On Tuesday, May 9, 2017 at 12:26:24 PM UTC-7, Wil Turner wrote:
>>
>> I'd love if someone could tell me if the sporty windshield from the 700s
>> would fit into an '85 650 nighthawk? Or, is there an aftermarket
>> alternative? I've seen some pics by searching online, but no live links.
>>
>> In my opinion, the front end of the bike is the weak link in the style
>> department, and the 700s is the best hidden.
>>
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Battery suggestions?

[Kurt Nolte]

Yuasa is usually a really good battery. How old is yours? Might be able to
just get a new Yuasa and call it good for another 5-6 years.

On May 12, 2017 14:15, "Rick, Scituate, MA, 82 650 NH" <gibbon...@gmail.com>
wrote:

> I have a Yuasa YB12A-A.  If the bike sits for more than 2 weeks untouched
> I come close to draining the battery to start it, (if it is only a day or
> 2, it starts immediately).  Plus the Yuasa seem to have a 2 year life so
> I'd rather upgrade.  From what I've read I would prefer the Duracell Ultra
> if I can find one that will fit the bike.
>
> I'm not familiar with Scorpion but they appear to have a direct AGM
> replacement.  I'll check the Motobatt as well.
>
> On Thursday, May 11, 2017 at 9:14:41 PM UTC-4, Kurt Nolte wrote:
>>
>> Does your current battery have a UB or YB part number on it somewhere?
>> That will tell you the form-factor of the battery, and you can look up an
>> AGM from there.
>>
>> Giving it ~15 minutes google searching it looks like your stock battery
>> was a UB12A-A battery (Honda PN 31500-460-672AH ). UB and YB numbers are
>> usually directly interchangeable; a UB12A-A would be a YB12A-A. Searching
>> for "YB12A-A AGM" has pulled up a pretty good number of results.
>>
>> My personal preference are the Batteries+ brand (Duracell/X2) or
>> Motobatt. I have heard the Bikemaster brand AGM batteries are good, their
>> gel batteries suck.
>>
>> As always, since you don't have a verified fit, take measurements of your
>> battery to make sure the new one will fit in the same space, and have the
>> same post type/position.
>>
>> On Thu, May 11, 2017 at 6:59 PM, Rick, Scituate, MA, 82 650 NH <
>> gibb...@gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>>> Good afternoon.  I just called Battery Plus and they don't believe they
>>> have an X-2 battery, (now called the Duracell Ultra) that will fit a 1982
>>> 650 NH. Anybody know what works?
>>>
>>> 2x the price, but I would prefer the sealed AGM style, but am unsure
>>> what fits.
>>>
>>>
>>> On Monday, November 19, 2012 at 4:48:45 PM UTC-5, Gibs wrote:
>>>>
>>>> I want to replace my battery next season. I just drained the carbs and
>>>> filled the bike up with seafoamed gas. I'm not bothering using a tender
>>>> since I'm replacing the battery anyways. It's an 85 NH 650, any suggestions
>>>> on a reliable but not crazy expensive batteries? Also is there anything
>>>> else I should do to winterize it? I'm leaving it in the garage all winter
>>>> with a cover as well.
>>>>  Hope all is well with everyone :)
>>>>
>>> --
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>>
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Battery suggestions?

[Kurt Nolte]

Does your current battery have a UB or YB part number on it somewhere? That
will tell you the form-factor of the battery, and you can look up an AGM
from there.

Giving it ~15 minutes google searching it looks like your stock battery was
a UB12A-A battery (Honda PN 31500-460-672AH ). UB and YB numbers are
usually directly interchangeable; a UB12A-A would be a YB12A-A. Searching
for "YB12A-A AGM" has pulled up a pretty good number of results.

My personal preference are the Batteries+ brand (Duracell/X2) or Motobatt.
I have heard the Bikemaster brand AGM batteries are good, their gel
batteries suck.

As always, since you don't have a verified fit, take measurements of your
battery to make sure the new one will fit in the same space, and have the
same post type/position.

On Thu, May 11, 2017 at 6:59 PM, Rick, Scituate, MA, 82 650 NH <
gibbon...@gmail.com> wrote:

> Good afternoon.  I just called Battery Plus and they don't believe they
> have an X-2 battery, (now called the Duracell Ultra) that will fit a 1982
> 650 NH. Anybody know what works?
>
> 2x the price, but I would prefer the sealed AGM style, but am unsure what
> fits.
>
>
> On Monday, November 19, 2012 at 4:48:45 PM UTC-5, Gibs wrote:
>>
>> I want to replace my battery next season. I just drained the carbs and
>> filled the bike up with seafoamed gas. I'm not bothering using a tender
>> since I'm replacing the battery anyways. It's an 85 NH 650, any suggestions
>> on a reliable but not crazy expensive batteries? Also is there anything
>> else I should do to winterize it? I'm leaving it in the garage all winter
>> with a cover as well.
>>  Hope all is well with everyone :)
>>
> --
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RE: [Nighthawk Lovers] New Clutch Pack Question

[Kurt Nolte]

I couldn't remember the order, just that the outers were the only ones that
mattered. Been two years since I did the clutch, thanks for the extra info.

And yes, DEFINITELY soak them. I put mine in the oil before I started the
teardown, did a chain cleaning first, couple other basic maintenance items,
and they were soaked in by the time I needed them. Don't remember how long
that was.

Kurt

On May 11, 2017 12:25, "Richard Potter" <rpot...@anaheim.net> wrote:

> Friction disks are all the same
>
> It is the outer steel that is different
>
> Inner one might be different as well
>
> Soak your friction plates in oil
>
> For a while before you install them
>
> That is very important
>
>
>
> *From:* nighthawk_lovers@googlegroups.com [mailto:nighthawk_lovers@
> googlegroups.com] *On Behalf Of *Erik Prime
> *Sent:* Thursday, May 11, 2017 9:00 AM
> *To:* Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!
> *Subject:* Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] New Clutch Pack Question
>
>
>
> OK so OUTER friction discs Obviously different, others all the same.
> Thanks!
>
> On Thursday, May 11, 2017 at 11:08:23 AM UTC-4, Kurt Nolte wrote:
>
> If you just bought an EBC kit you should only have the friction discs. You
> will need to clean and retain your steels.
>
>
>
> If I recall from my own clutch job, the outers are OBVIOUSLY different,
> and the rest aren't order specific. Just make sure you alternate them.
>
>
>
> Take your time, take pictures, don't rush.
>
>
>
> Kurt
>
>
>
> On May 11, 2017 10:41, "Erik Prime" <prim...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> Good Morning
>
>
>
> I just bought back my 83 650 from someone I sold it to a couple years ago,
> and noticed the clutch slipping at high RPM. $50 and an hour or two doesnt
> sound too bad, thought it tackle the clutch this spring.
>
>
>
> Seems pretty straight forward, however i have ONE question:Will the
> replacement (ebc) discs be in the correct order out of the box? or do i
> have to go through and measure them before putting them on?
>
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] New Clutch Pack Question

[Kurt Nolte]

If you just bought an EBC kit you should only have the friction discs. You
will need to clean and retain your steels.

If I recall from my own clutch job, the outers are OBVIOUSLY different, and
the rest aren't order specific. Just make sure you alternate them.

Take your time, take pictures, don't rush.

Kurt

On May 11, 2017 10:41, "Erik Prime"  wrote:

> Good Morning
>
> I just bought back my 83 650 from someone I sold it to a couple years ago,
> and noticed the clutch slipping at high RPM. $50 and an hour or two doesnt
> sound too bad, thought it tackle the clutch this spring.
>
> Seems pretty straight forward, however i have ONE question:Will the
> replacement (ebc) discs be in the correct order out of the box? or do i
> have to go through and measure them before putting them on?
>
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Tool box cover/lid

[Kurt Nolte]

I sent the user a PM to see if he still has the mold.


On May 10, 2017 06:23, "Dave duChêne"  wrote:

> My spare "walked off" too.
> Let us know if the 3D idea works out.
> Dave
>
>
> On 9 May 2017 at 16:56, Matthew Warner  wrote:
>
>> I know this is a long shot, but I'm fixing up my dads old 1984 cb650sc
>> and the one part I can't find anywhere is the tool box cover/lid. Finding
>> originals is next to impossible, but with such a large community still
>> riding the nighthawks you'd think there might be an aftermarket part to
>> replace them. Unfortunately this doesn't seem to be the case. Then I found
>> a light at the end of the tunnel, a person on another forum,
>> http://ujmforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=11=291=abb3
>> 22048682734f312d2d8f3c55b875 , has made a mold from an original and made
>> a replacement! I don't know if he still makes them or if he'd be willing to
>> sell them, but it would be nice to have that as an option to replace them.
>> If anyone here has an original cover would you be willing to try to do a
>> similar thing, or try 3d print them, just so we can have an aftermarket
>> supply to replace them when they decide to walk off?
>>
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] 700s or 750s style fairing/windshield for '85 650?

[Kurt Nolte]

If I recall correctly there is a procedure in the Honda shop manual to
calibrate the fuel sender. If yours was still showing two bars, that might
be a good idea.

On May 9, 2017 23:29, "Wil Turner"  wrote:

> I should have figured that out by now. Didn't want to try the reserve
> until I had an inline fuel filter on it, though.
>
> Got home okay. Thanks to the GA HERO operator who have me gas.
>
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] 700s or 750s style fairing/windshield for '85 650?

[Kurt Nolte]

It will not fit without some massaging. I tried, mounts aren't the same.

On May 9, 2017 15:26, "Wil Turner"  wrote:

> I'd love if someone could tell me if the sporty windshield from the 700s
> would fit into an '85 650 nighthawk? Or, is there an aftermarket
> alternative? I've seen some pics by searching online, but no live links.
>
> In my opinion, the front end of the bike is the weak link in the style
> department, and the 700s is the best hidden.
>
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Has anyone soldered up a replacement for the fuse panel on a 83-85 650?

[Kurt Nolte]

If you can avoid it, I would not put the whole fuse assembly in the
headlight bucket. Not only will that trap heat (which promotes fuse
failure) but it also will mean that you will need tools to access it, and
also re-aim the headlight every time.

As for aftermarket solutions, I favor the Metripack modular system. It
accepts fuses as well as micro relays, and uses standard automotive fuse
sizes.

Kurt


On Apr 21, 2017 12:49,  wrote:

> I mean to take it out of the picture completely. Ive gone from a rectangle
> headlight to a round one, and I'm trying to come up with a way to fit the
> whole fuse assembly into the headlight to hide it, besides it also having
> that issue of not getting power to two of the fuses.
>
> On Friday, April 21, 2017 at 12:12:08 PM UTC-4, rcjo...@gmail.com wrote:
>>
>> My fuse panel is partially broken, and requires extra wiring to function.
>> Basically, two of the fuses don't get 12v to power their circuits and I
>> piggybacked a hot wire and used two 'in-line' fuses. Couldn't I just remove
>> the whole block and wire up something custom? I have decent soldering
>> experience and can read the diagrams, just curious if someone has already
>> done it.
>>
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Missing a rear wheel washer?

[Kurt Nolte]

Very critical. But also still available.

I think it's this one: WASHER (35X40) 41510-MB0-003

On Apr 12, 2017 05:24, "Dave duChêne"  wrote:

> critical !
>
> On 12 April 2017 at 01:10, Krunch  wrote:
>
>> I swear! I was very careful removing things off my bike. I even grouped
>> and bagged parts.
>>
>> In my rear wheel bag, I'm missing #15 wave washer it seems. Must have
>> been during safety inspection or PO. How critical is this? See link for
>> diagram.
>>
>> Thanx!
>>
>> https://1drv.ms/i/s!AhV2P811IgC3kDwQdb4tZSH30ovA
>>
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Is a 76' CB750 SuperSport good for beginner?

[Kurt Nolte]

If you are handy and okay with doing extra regular maintenance, a 70s 750
will be more tame than a modern 750. It will be heavier and less well
balanced than more modern bikes though.

I started on a 750 Nighthawk, which is hardly a sport bike, and even at
6'3" I feel like I probably would have learned the basics better on
something smaller.

If you intend long trips, I would STRONGLY recommend avoiding anything
"cafe" modded. The bar positioning and the lack of any wind protection at
all will contribute to increased exhaustion at higher speeds. The
handlebars are not ideal for someone learning either, as they will
encourage learning bad habits and poor weight placement.

The smaller bikes might not immediately let you do long highway jaunts at
high speed, but they do facilitate learning quite well and are generally
very capable machines. They also hold their value quite well, so you can
buy, learn, do basic maintenance and still get out almost what you paid for
it when you upgrade.



On Apr 11, 2017 2:57 AM, "Yizhuang Liu"  wrote:

> PS the bike looks like this (picture from Craigslist). I admit that I am a
> bit drawn by its look. But I know I need to consider important things first.
>
>
>
> On Monday, April 10, 2017 at 11:53:57 PM UTC-7, Yizhuang Liu wrote:
>>
>> Hi, I am currently looking into a CB750F SuperSport, tuned into Cafe
>> style.
>>
>> I read several review articles about this bike, and found out that there
>> has been critiques about the handling of CB750 SupersSport due to its hard
>> shock resisting and a more vertical angle of the handles. Besides, it is a
>> fast bike with narrow tires and a more leaning forward riding triangle than
>> the ordinary CB750. There are people saying that this kind of bike should
>> not be a first bike for a beginner.
>>
>> However, from many other reviews I have learnt that the CB750 model is
>> very reliable and it is good for both casual riding and going a little fast.
>> I am not trying to buy a super machine like ninja rocket or CB1000 but on
>> the other hand I would like a powerful bike to make long trips. From
>> research that CB750 is a good model for my target.
>>
>> I really hope that I can get precious advices from you!
>>
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] 83' 650SC Rear Wheel - Balance Weight?

[Kurt Nolte]

Part number seven goes on when the wheel gets balanced. It's not a "static"
piece that goes on every wheel, it's just a rim weight.

Why they put it *there* in the drawing I have no clue.

On Mon, Apr 10, 2017 at 8:33 PM, Krunch  wrote:

> Oops! I gues a shot from the manual for those who don't have it handy
> would be helpful...
>
> https://1drv.ms/i/s!AhV2P811IgC3kDtgi07IK4loUwII
>
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: New Member - 1985 CB650

[Kurt Nolte]

I wouldn't part it out if you like the bike. You can find good used
engines, engine parts for these.

I have a parts engine, but no idea how good or useful it would be.

On Apr 9, 2017 2:37 PM, "Keith Fougere"  wrote:

> Motor is seized - #3 bearing welded to the crankshaft - time to part out I
> guess
>
> On Thursday, April 6, 2017 at 8:46:02 AM UTC-4, Keith Fougere wrote:
>>
>> Ok, so I broke into the starter and it looks really good! The PO must
>> have had the starter rebuilt recently. Brushes have minimal wear, the
>> commutator does show signs of wear   ) ( Might be poor contact between
>> the square brushes and the rounded commutator but I assume that it did work
>> previously. A continuity check indicates no resistance between the
>> commutator pairs and no continuity to the shaft. So, I guess it isn't the
>> starter. I have a new starter kit to start my collection of parts. I hooked
>> the starter up to a battery on the kitchen counter and it runs strongly.
>> Next step is to install the starter back on the bike and hope by some
>> miracle that everything starts to work. I don't really expect that to
>> happen, so does anyone have an idea what I should check next? The PO told
>> me that the bike got harder and harder to start. I haven't even verified
>> yet that the motor will spin freely but doubt that's the problem.
>>
>> On Tuesday, March 28, 2017 at 5:14:28 PM UTC-4, Keith Fougere wrote:
>>>
>>> Thanks, I will definitely clean it all well when i dig into it - going
>>> to wait until the parts arrive on Saturday so I can do it all at once. The
>>> bike has 38k on it so the brushes are probably ready to get changed.
>>>
>>> On Tue, Mar 28, 2017 at 1:38 PM, mark weisenfeld 
>>> wrote:
>>>
 Wait-wait... though a starter rebuild is a good idea (mainly for the
 brushes) did you take it off and blow/suck out all the old carbon dust and
 look at the brush length?
 At least while you wait you'll know you are on the right track.

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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Upgrade Recommendations the front end of my NH750

[Kurt Nolte]

Yep. Back a couple replies, I think this is them:
http://www.ebay.com/usr/rennsportautoparts?_trksid=p2047675.l2559

On Apr 5, 2017 19:05, "Krunch"  wrote:

Didja find the eBay seller in Canada yet?

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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] LED Bulbs

[Kurt Nolte]

I've used an automotive flasher, sourced from my FLAPS (Friendly Local Auto
Parts Store, if you don't know the acronym).

You can find your relay on the bike and look at the end needed to plug into
it. There are companies that make motorcycle specific ones if it has a
connector and pigtail, or if the relay is just a 2 pin relay you need to
find one off the shelf to match.

Kurt

On Apr 5, 2017 00:58, "Krunch"  wrote:

Thanx Kurt!

Anyone have any part numbers of flashers you have used in the past for
this? And where ya got them?

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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] LED Bulbs

[Kurt Nolte]

"Fixing" fast flash with a resistor defeats the purpose of installing LED
lights.

You can replace the flasher relay with a solid state LED compatible relay
with no issues.

Kurt

On Apr 4, 2017 23:19, "Krunch"  wrote:

> Has anyone used the Slyvania Zevo LED bulbs in their signal / tail lights?
> If so, did they flash fast? If so, is the fix a resistor or is there a
> flash that can be replaced?
>
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Touch of amnesia I reckon

[Kurt Nolte]

That would sound correct, fused lead to hot, unfused to negative. Though
that color coding seems backwards (Brown == earths).

At some point I'll colorize the other scans I have (750, 700s) but it's a
fair number of hours to put into it since I don't have fancy graphics
training.

Kurt

On Mon, Apr 3, 2017 at 3:36 PM, 'Neil Patrick' via Nighthawk Motorcycle
Lovers!  wrote:

> On Monday, April 3, 2017 at 2:55:32 PM UTC+1, Neil Patrick wrote:
> > Hi, I cant remember if the 1.5mm light blue wire connects to the
> positive or negative battery terminal pn my 1983 650 Nighthawk
> > I've reconnected it many times in the past, but didn't take note the
> last time I disconnected it and now can't remember for the life of me which
> way roound it goes.
> > Could someone have a look at their bike and let  me  know which way its
> connected.
> > Cheers
>
> Thanks for you help. I've looked again and your right it's for heated
> grips previous owner had fitted. It's paired with a fused brown wire. Am I
> right to think the blue connects to the negative terminal.
> Thanks for the wiring diagram. Good to have it in colour. Cheers
>
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Touch of amnesia I reckon

[Kurt Nolte]

Colorized.

  CB650scdiagram_colorshare.jpg
<https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B5rhwMkJQ5ORakJxZnk2UlZCS0U/view?usp=drivesdk>


On Apr 3, 2017 12:21, "Dave duChêne" <duchen...@gmail.com> wrote:

> want the wiring diagram?
>
>
> On 3 April 2017 at 12:54, Kyle Munz <kyle...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> Same here, that doesn't sound stock.
>>
>>
>> -Kyle
>>
>> On Mon, Apr 3, 2017 at 10:52 AM, Kurt Nolte <vturbine.po...@gmail.com>
>> wrote:
>>
>>> What's the wire for?
>>>
>>> I don't recall any small gauge wires directly attaching to the battery,
>>> either terminal.
>>>
>>> Kurt
>>>
>>> On Apr 3, 2017 09:55, "'Neil Patrick' via Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!" <
>>> nighthawk_lovers@googlegroups.com> wrote:
>>>
>>>> Hi, I cant remember if the 1.5mm light blue wire connects to the
>>>> positive or negative battery terminal pn my 1983 650 Nighthawk
>>>> I've reconnected it many times in the past, but didn't take note the
>>>> last time I disconnected it and now can't remember for the life of me which
>>>> way roound it goes.
>>>> Could someone have a look at their bike and let  me  know which way its
>>>> connected.
>>>> Cheers
>>>>
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>>
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Touch of amnesia I reckon

[Kurt Nolte]

What's the wire for?

I don't recall any small gauge wires directly attaching to the battery,
either terminal.

Kurt

On Apr 3, 2017 09:55, "'Neil Patrick' via Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!" <
nighthawk_lovers@googlegroups.com> wrote:

> Hi, I cant remember if the 1.5mm light blue wire connects to the positive
> or negative battery terminal pn my 1983 650 Nighthawk
> I've reconnected it many times in the past, but didn't take note the last
> time I disconnected it and now can't remember for the life of me which way
> roound it goes.
> Could someone have a look at their bike and let  me  know which way its
> connected.
> Cheers
>
> --
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Upgrade Recommendations the front end of my NH750

[Kurt Nolte]

There is also an eBay seller out of Canada that makes _very_ quality custom
lines. I've put them on three bikes now with no disappointment.

I'll look when I get home for which seller.

You send them the length and ends you need, color, and any unusual requests
like specific orientation of the ends (I've had short hoses that needed the
ends rotated 90° on the hose to fit) and it takes about a week to arrive.

Kurt

On Apr 1, 2017 12:13, "jrhoyt0895"  wrote:

> ...and that was close enough for me to find them online!  I identified the
> line for my bike and inquired about customizing it to make it longer since
> I have tall risers.  According to Galfer's response, I can customize the
> kit to make the line longer, but the email didn't say how.
>
> Thanks for the tips, everyone!  They were very helpful.
>
> On Friday, March 31, 2017 at 6:12:36 PM UTC-4, Richard Potter wrote:
>>
>> Yep
>> Hay I was close
>>
>> -Original Message-
>> From: nighthaw...@googlegroups.com [mailto:nighthaw...@googlegroups.com]
>> On Behalf Of Tommy Hill
>> Sent: Friday, March 31, 2017 2:05 PM
>> To: Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!
>> Subject: Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Upgrade Recommendations the front end of
>> my NH750
>>
>> Gafer doesn't sound right.  Isn't it Galfer?
>>
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Need a new gas tank for a 2001 CB250 Nighthawk

[Kurt Nolte]

If I'm not mistaken, the AC model tanks just have different vent hookups to
handle the EVAP canister installed on those bikes.

On Mar 31, 2017 7:31 AM, "Happy Home"  wrote:

>
> "Snowflakes" -- now that's funny.
>
> And the suggestion about the dealer is good and I agree.  Alas, the
> economics of motorcycles is poor in the US, and dealers in my experience
> charge retail prices for everything.
>
> On www.hondaparts-direct.com there was a helpful VIN range for the Code A
> and Code AC -- turns out mine is Code A, and that tank for some reason in
> about $25 more.
>
> I was just about to click "Buy", and noted they had added a $60 shipping
> charge.
>
> Checking the same part on Bike Bandit, the part was $15 more, and they
> tacked on $7 "oversized item" shipping surcharge, so I went with that.
>
> Thank you all.
>
> Wish you all the best.
>
> Let's be safe out there.
> On Wednesday, March 29, 2017 at 9:19:20 PM UTC-4, Happy Home wrote:
>>
>> My bike fell over in a storm, and just wrong against a fence post, and
>> put a dent in the side.
>>
>> Try as I might, I can't find anyone to try to push it out with tools (I
>> tried the "as seen on TV" hot glue gun -- no dice) for less than I can
>> purchase a new one.
>>
>> Question for the wisdom of the list:
>>
>> I see two tanks listed for my model bike -- one is "AC" and the other has
>> an "A" suffix.
>>
>> The one with the "A" suffix is significantly more expensive.
>>
>> Why ?
>>
>> And which one do I need, or does it matter ?
>>
>> Thanks
>>
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: After market exhaust

[Kurt Nolte]

You remove the baffle inserts from your stock exhaust and drill a series of
holes in them.

It reduces restriction, but also increases noise. Some folks take it too
far and it mucks with their ability to tune the bike afterward.

On Mar 3, 2017 08:48, "Dave duChêne"  wrote:

> I must have missed something here  -  what is the Hodge Mod ??
>
> On 3 March 2017 at 09:41, Jim Bolen  wrote:
>
>> No, they are riveted on. PO of my bike did the Hodge mod and it ran
>> poorly and sounded bad, plus I like a quieter exhaust. Had to drill out the
>> rivets and repair the holes. Reinstalled and the bike sounded stock again,
>> but also ran better.
>>
>> On Friday, March 3, 2017 at 5:14:31 AM UTC-7, jrhoyt0895 wrote:
>>>
>>> Before you drill out those baffles, try removing them with an allen
>>> wrench.  I believe they are made to be removable.  You might decide you
>>> want to reinstall them later.
>>>
>>> I haven't modified my front forks or the front brake line yet, but I'll
>>> consider it.  Does anyone have any more mods to recommend on a NH750?
>>>
>>> On Thursday, March 2, 2017 at 2:02:55 PM UTC-5, Dan Molenhouse wrote:

 That's reassuring, I will likely invest in a kit then, as I would
 rather be running ruicher anyways. I did do the washer mod which helped,
 but I've been itching to drill the baffles out and get some more sound.
 Before any of this though, progressive fork springs and a SS brakeline are
 going in to hopefully eliminate the horrible nosediving when braking.
 Thanks for the help!



 On Thursday, March 2, 2017 at 12:37:17 PM UTC-6, Greg wrote:
>
> As far as I know they only made a stage 1 jet kit. No bigger. She'll
> purr just the same. You'll get better midrange. I have 55,000 on mine and
> runs just like when I bought it.
>
>
>
> Sent from my Verizon 4G LTE smartphone
>
>
>  Original message 
> From: Dan Molenhouse 
> Date: 3/2/17 1:32 PM (GMT-05:00)
> To: Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers! 
> Subject: Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: After market exhaust
>
> That's what I was thinking, would a stage I dynojet kit be enough? I
> am scared to start messing with the carbs- I know I have the mechanical
> skill to do it but the bike runs so well as is I am afraid to mess with 
> it.
>
>
>
> On Thursday, March 2, 2017 at 10:22:09 AM UTC-6, jrhoyt0895 wrote:
>>
>> To be safe, it's always a good idea to rejet the carbs when you
>> modify the exhaust.  Whether you replace the exhaust or just remove the
>> baffles from your stock pipes, you should rejet.
>>
>> On Thursday, March 2, 2017 at 10:45:39 AM UTC-5, Dan Molenhouse
>> wrote:
>>>
>>> Out of curiosity (not trying to hijack the thread here), but is it
>>> recommended to rejet the carbs after doing the Hodge mod? I wanted to 
>>> make
>>> my 750 a little louder, but don't want to burn up my valves because of
>>> improper jetting.
>>>
>>> On Wednesday, March 1, 2017 at 5:20:02 PM UTC-6, Greg wrote:

 The Hodge mod is a must then, unless you go for the jet kit. I have
 a jet kit with a k air filter and the Mac exhaust. Your fuel economy 
 will
 suffer though. I get around 42 in the city. Highway? 36 to 40 
 depending on
 how you ride. Of course the higher the rpm, the worse the mpg. I would
 start with the hodge mod and see how you like it. This way you can keep
 everything stock. Even with the stage 1 jet kit, you can keep the stock
 pipes.



 Sent from my Verizon 4G LTE smartphone


  Original message 
 From: Tom La Fleur 
 Date: 3/1/17 4:14 PM (GMT-05:00)
 To: Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers! 
 Subject: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: After market exhaust

 Any better performance would help too... I live up at 9600 feet in
 Colorado so the air is thin and reduces power a bit

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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Did anyone else get the word...

[Kurt Nolte]

I've been calling for unisex bathrooms since high school. :p

But my brother is colorblind, and almost nobody thinks about those folks
when they color code things. Even worse are those individuals who are
blue/yellow colorblind or deficient; those are your go-to "safe colors"
because the only color blindness most know of is red-green!

Back on topic, I wonder if the "shuttering" of Victory isn't a tactical
move. Shut down the brand, wait five years for the remaining inventory to
finally clear, then revive it as a noncruiser line. Sport bikes, probably;
what else would they sell, with a name like Victory?



On Mar 2, 2017 12:34, "Mark Weisenfeld"  wrote:

> ( Don't get me wrong here. I recognize that sensitivity to others is a
> product of advanced civilization and a product of compassion for others,
> unless your activism is just for activism's sake.)
>
> Oh yeah, where I call home, the culture wears sensitivity like a badge of
> honor. We're proud of being uber-sensitive about everything, and
> legislating it, from who gets to use what bathrooms to saving
> trees/whales/environment and whether or not you should use color in your
> software because some people are color-blind.
>
> So, since it's a common thread in the Northwest left coast, to be thinking
> that way, I notice it, and I'll joke about it now and then.
>
> No political references. Not going there. They are not invited.
>
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Did anyone else get the word...

[Kurt Nolte]

There was talk, after Polaris acquired Brammo, of using the Victory brand
to transition to making an American sport bike brand. Indian for the
cruisers, Victory for the standards and sporties that do better worldwide.

There was also the Victory rebranded Empulse for an electric bike
competitor. I had hopes that the cash infusion until the tech that Polaris
represented would give the industry a shot in the arm, but I can't imagine
Indian offering an electric bike...

Kurt

On Feb 28, 2017 11:25 AM, "Joey Kelley"  wrote:

> All,
>Not Honda related, but did anyone else hear that Polaris will be
> killing off the Victory brand name? http://ride-ct.com/
> stunned-reaction-to-polaris-killing-victory/
> It came out last month, and I for one am saddened. Any removal of a brand
> from the market, no matter if you ride it or not, doesn't help motorcycling
> in general.
>In retrospect, Polaris tried to buy Indian motorcycle once before -
> and on their second attempt, they managed to buy it. If you owned a brand
> that had history in motorcycling since 1901 - would you keep your own brand
> that you spontaneously started less than 20 years ago?
>I'm not sure I would. I'd take everything I learned from that
> brand, all the talented people I'd hired and roll them into an effort to
> make that historic brand name the best line of motorcycles it could be.
>Simple fact - in 2017, in the United States, the people that can
> afford to buy a new motorcycle at a cost of $20,000 plus are going to buy
> what they like and if they want something other than a Harley, but want an
> American Made bike, Indian has a lot more nostalgia and history than
> Victory. I suspect that was part of the decision.
>Thoughts?
>   -Joey
>
>
> -Joey Kelley
> JoeyKelley.com - My Life Online
> JoeyKelleyPhoto.com - Photographing Today, For Tomorrow
>
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Powder Coat Wheels / Wheel Bearings...

[Kurt Nolte]

Driving bearings out tends to warp the races slightly, just enough to keep
them from working properly.

Besides, new bearings have seals, better grease, and thirty years of
metallurgy refinement.

On Feb 25, 2017 11:29, "Dwayne Wells"  wrote:

> I suspect the bearings are as old as the bike. I managed to pound them
> out. Oddly, I didn't have a sensible tool to do it. Tried a screwdriver and
> a chisel. I ended up using an old ratchet handle. The end was pretty flat
> and because it was round, I think it bit the edge of the bearing better.
> When I got them out, they had no visible damage at all! Not going to reuse
> them though anyway 
>
> --
> Krunch
> Sent from my iPhone 6S
>
> On Feb 24, 2017, at 6:29 PM, Jim Bolen  wrote:
>
> Are the bearings old? Mine were old, so I pounded them (hammer and a piece
> of wood) out and just put new ones in. Nice, cheap piece of mind.
>
>
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] No way the crush gaskets are coming out

[Kurt Nolte]

Are those the exhaust gaskets?

I used a pick, patience, and small, steady applications of brake cleaner
when I pulled the ones on the 750. The gaskets are "coked" in there by
exhaust soot, so they will resist coming out until you manage to chip a
little of that out from behind it.

Once you get that small victory, the rest follows suit pretty well.

On Thu, Feb 23, 2017 at 11:55 PM, Javier Garcia  wrote:

> Maybe a squirt of PB blaster will work?
>
> On Thu, Feb 23, 2017 at 4:45 PM, marion branham  > wrote:
>
>> I have the set of picks. No way is that thing going to give :) I fought
>> it for an hour. Heat has been suggested but I just can not see using a
>> torch on the head . I live in South Carolina. And on the sealent for the
>> valve cover gasket. It said to put it on the end caps ( half moons ) which
>> I did. Am I suppose to seal it all the way around ? These manuals are
>> REALLY misleading.
>>
>> On Thu, Feb 23, 2017 at 6:00 PM, Dave duChêne 
>> wrote:
>>
>>> You can buy a "pick" at any automotive supply store (shaped like the
>>> letter L). They are very hard and sharp, get in behind the ring and pull it
>>> out.
>>> Be careful not to damage the aluminum head.
>>> Keep us posted.
>>>
>>> On 23 February 2017 at 18:55, marion branham 
>>> wrote:
>>>
 No, I didn't put any sealer on them. I have found very little info on
 how to do this LOL. The copper gaskets have been in there since 83 I am
 thinking.

 On Thu, Feb 23, 2017 at 4:10 PM, Richard Potter 
 wrote:

> Bend the tip of an old screwdriver and try to get it under the gasket
>
> It takes a bit but they will come out
>
> Then clean the head before putting in the new ones
>
>
>
> *From:* nighthawk_lovers@googlegroups.com [mailto:
> nighthawk_lovers@googlegroups.com] *On Behalf Of *Dave duChêne
> *Sent:* Thursday, February 23, 2017 12:24 PM
> *To:* nighthawk_lovers@googlegroups.com
> *Subject:* Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] No way the crush gaskets are coming
> out
>
>
>
> Don't do that, be patient. It takes a bit of practice to learn this
> stuff.
>
> Did you put any type of sealer on the gasket?
>
>
>
> On 23 February 2017 at 15:52, Marion  wrote:
>
> Well, I ordered new copper crush gaskets. So while waiting on them to
> get here I decided to go out and " have a go " at getting the old ones 
> out.
> They are not moving. The pipes are leaking like hell. Also, I replaced the
> valve cover gasket and it pours out oil LOL. I did the proper sequence and
> torquing of the bolts with new gasket.I think I might be ready to put 
> these
> both up for sale. Two bikes ( One parts bike )One with title one without (
> bought in GA ). any interest ? 1983 550 nighthawk.
>
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Walmart batteries

[Kurt Nolte]

Anecdotal evidence, but I'm 3/3 on those batteries leaking inside of a year.

I buy Motobatt branded AGM now, or the Batteries+ branded AGM if I don't
want to order and wait. They've both been WELL worth the price.

On Feb 22, 2017 12:00, "mark weisenfeld"  wrote:

> Are there any compelling reasons to NOT get one of their cheap batteries?
> I know you get what you pay for, but maybe that's all I need for a little
> while.
>
> Better yet, what is a compelling alternative?
> This is not for the Night Hawk. It's for my wife's bike that will actually
> charge at lower RPM. It has reached a ripe old age and has died a normal
> death.
>
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Clutch recommendations

[Kurt Nolte]

OEM parts were pretty cheap. It's not a hard job, though you will also want
to replace the springs at the same time.

On Feb 4, 2017 17:44, "Tommy Hill"  wrote:

> Ok, I believe I need a new clutch.  Engine starts to rev at about 7k
> faster than acceleration.  Oil change didn't help.  Any suggestions on name
> brand?  Or just go OEM?
>
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Germany

[Kurt Nolte]

Javier,

What part of Germany? I know someone who spent three years over there and
goes back frequently for her job. She rides, she might have some leads.

Kurt

On Jan 31, 2017 2:10 AM, "Javier Garcia"  wrote:

> Hi all,
>
> I know this is a very long shot, but I though in asking. I will be
> spending 3 months in Germany starting March 1. I would love to have a bike
> to go around and maybe explore a little. I looked at renting prices but as
> usual they are quite steep (I'm a scientist so there is no much I can
> afford anyway). I could try to get something used there, but the I will
> need to sell it in 3 months, which sounds like a hassle. I wonder if anyone
> here has an advice on how to get a cheap motorcycle over there. Perhaps
> someone who is whiling to rent/loan me a bike? Or someone wants to trade
> for a while? My NH 750 in the US for something running over there?
>
> Cheers,
> Javier.
>
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RE: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Bright Night Lights

[Kurt Nolte]

Truck-lite makes good stuff.

Downside for a Nighthawker is that all of our bikes have integrated optics
and replaceable lamps, rather than sealed beam assemblies. The mounting
ears are part of the optics, so the TL LED replacements don't just drop in.

I modified an older bike's bucket when I did my swap, looking like I'll do
it against for the 650 swap.

On Dec 16, 2016 8:54 AM, "Richard Potter" <rpot...@anaheim.net> wrote:

> There is a company called truck-lite that makes very good LED replacement
> lights
>
> They have a wonderful low beam pattern with a sharp cut off line so as not
> to cause oncoming driver any glear
>
> And if on a empty road the hi beam is great
>
> Upside is they only pull about 2 amps witch is less then your stock unit
>
> Downside price just under $200.00 on amazon and the back of the assy. Is
> deep it took a little work to put one in a 78 750
>
> Cool factor is they look almost black when turned off
>
>
>
> *From:* nighthawk_lovers@googlegroups.com [mailto:nighthawk_lovers@
> googlegroups.com] *On Behalf Of *Michael Chauveau
> *Sent:* Thursday, December 15, 2016 6:38 PM
> *To:* nighthawk_lovers@googlegroups.com
> *Subject:* Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Bright Night Lights
>
>
>
> Thanks to all who weighed in. It's been a help and given me something to
> think about in this non riding weather.
>
>
>
> Michael C.
>
>
>
> On Thu, Dec 15, 2016 at 11:29 AM, Kurt Nolte <vturbine.po...@gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
> If you are looking for a little more performance from your headlight, step
> one should always be to make sure it's properly adjusted. That should also
> be the last step any time you mess with it.
>
>
>
> You can also get a fresh bulb of standard wattage levels. Lamps degrade
> with time and use, so a fresh lamp can be better than an old but not burned
> out light.
>
>
>
> You can also upgrade your wiring to the light by adding relays and a
> direct connection to the battery. Use the stock wiring to control the
> relays and heavy gauge fresh wiring to feed the light from the batteries.
> This way you preserve your stock functionality but feed the light it's
> rated voltage and allow full current.
>
>
>
> On Dec 15, 2016 8:56 AM, "jrhoyt0895" <jeremy.r.h...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> Oh, and one more thing.  Keep in mind your headlight position will change
> when you sit on your motorcycle, so you'll want to position the headlight
> while you're sitting on the motorcycle, and then tighten it down after you
> find a good position.
>
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>
>
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> Michael C.
> hendon...@gmail.com
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Bright Night Lights

[Kurt Nolte]

If you are looking for a little more performance from your headlight, step
one should always be to make sure it's properly adjusted. That should also
be the last step any time you mess with it.

You can also get a fresh bulb of standard wattage levels. Lamps degrade
with time and use, so a fresh lamp can be better than an old but not burned
out light.

You can also upgrade your wiring to the light by adding relays and a direct
connection to the battery. Use the stock wiring to control the relays and
heavy gauge fresh wiring to feed the light from the batteries. This way you
preserve your stock functionality but feed the light it's rated voltage and
allow full current.

On Dec 15, 2016 8:56 AM, "jrhoyt0895"  wrote:

> Oh, and one more thing.  Keep in mind your headlight position will change
> when you sit on your motorcycle, so you'll want to position the headlight
> while you're sitting on the motorcycle, and then tighten it down after you
> find a good position.
>>
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Clutch cable

[Kurt Nolte]

Which other model specifically?

Might contact Motion Pro. They make aftermarket, good quality cables, they
can get you a part number for theirs and just about any bike retailer can
order it.

Kurt

On Dec 2, 2016 4:10 PM, "Greg"  wrote:

>
>
> Hey gang, does anyone know if the 91 +cb 750s clutch cable might be
> interchangeable with another model? I just broke mine and no one has one
> available.
>
> Sent from my Verizon 4G LTE smartphone
>
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Power source for volt meter

[Kurt Nolte]

Honestly I'd still tap the coils. They are voltage critical, after all.

On Nov 8, 2016 1:04 PM, "Glenn Evanish"  wrote:

> Very good. What would you suggest for someone with no relay mods?
>
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Power source for volt meter

[Kurt Nolte]

The volt meter I added to mine went in with the relay mods. I tapped mine
off the switched side of the coil relays, so I'm getting the measurement of
voltage "at the coils" so to speak.

On Nov 8, 2016 11:28, "EGrider"  wrote:

> Those of you who have put volt meters on your bike, what is the best
> candidate for a switched power source that will go off when the bike goes
> off? Headlight wire?
>
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Tire pressure

[Kurt Nolte]

Can they? Yes. It's a question of how much work and money you want to
apply.

You would need to find a wheel+bearing+ brake combo that would work with
the rest of the bike. Similar diameter, correct axle size, same brake
placement. On the 250 it'll be even harder, as if I'm not mistaken those
are still drum braked up front. Not a whole lot of options for front drum
brake alloys.

On Oct 10, 2016 1:26 AM, "Dan Cook"  wrote:

> Just curious, can non spoked wheels be put on a 250? Dumb question?
>
> On Sep 21, 2016 9:05 AM, "jrhoyt0895"  wrote:
>
>> I wouldn't bother filling the tires with nitrogen.  They're already
>> filled with regular air, which contains about 78% nitrogen.
>>>
>>>
>> Yes, I think you have a leak, and since you're riding a bike that has
>> spoked wheels (a 2008 Nighthawk 250, right?) I recommend you install a
>> fresh innertube and after finding and removing the offending object that
>> caused the leak.
>>
>> On spoked wheels, the rims often have sharp bits that press against the
>> innertube.  It's the reason you're supposed to install a new innertube
>> every time you install a new tire.  Look for those sharp points and file
>> them down while you have the tire off.
>>
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Nighthawk 650

[Kurt Nolte]

The curvature in your control pods will not match a 1" bar, and they will
not seat. Additionally, your throttle tube will not fit over the 1" bar,
and the curvature in the clamps on the triple tree will not fit the 1" bar
diameter.

You could probably "make" them work, but they will not be very secure, nor
will they be particularly good looking.

-Kurt

On Thu, Oct 6, 2016 at 9:53 PM, Tommy Hill  wrote:

> My GUESS is the main clamp on the steering head won't fit.  The others
> will likely not fit, but all could be modified with some trouble.
>
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Stuck bolt

[Kurt Nolte]

8x50 refers to the size. Find an M8x1.25 FLANGED bolt in a 50mm total
length and you will be good. I suggest that you look into a stainless
replacement and do both of them, since they aren't structural.

Though... 50mm seems long, for an exhaust bolt. Are you certain the part
number is correct?

On Oct 2, 2016 19:51, "Jared Clifton"  wrote:

I have tried just about everything, and I am finally going to give up and
take it to my mechanic to see what magic he can do to it. It's starting to
get dark and wet up here in Seattle, so I'm hoping he can get it out
quicker than I have been able.

Which raises a second question... Just in case he ends up destroying the
bolt, I was looking online for a replacement. The parts diagrams show it as
a UBS 8x50 (part #90155-ME5-000). It also shows that part as discontinued.
Does anyone know if there's a direct replacement available? Or does anyone
know where I might be able to source an original?

-Jared



On Thursday, September 22, 2016 at 1:50:18 PM UTC-7, aspork42 wrote:

> Good idea to try and tighten the bolt just to break it free. The clamping
> force of the bolt isn't why this one is stuck - it is the corrosion between
> the threads. That is why heat works - it expands the bolt / threads just
> enough to overcome the corrosion.
>
> On Sep 22, 2016, at 14:47, Lar Lar  wrote:
>
> All good ideas to try so far.  Have you tried using the impact wrench to
> tighten the bolt for just a few impacts, then try loosening it, maybe that
> will break the corrosion bond.  Also do you know what the ft/lbs of your
> impact tool is?  Mine is an electric one rated at 220 ft/lbs and it would
> not take off the wheel nuts off on my car (thanks dealership, lol) but when
> taken off by a garage to have the wheels balanced and put back on at the
> proper torque it was fine.
> We're all pulling for ya!
>
>
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] 1985 CB650SC Nighthawk front forks

[Kurt Nolte]

If you think about it, $200 for a quality pair of fork tubes is pretty
cheap. Buying OEM you're going to be in that range EACH, and buying used
will still put you in the 100-150 range for good condition ones.

On Oct 2, 2016 1:04 PM,  wrote:

> I bought a pair from frank when I did my 650. A perfect match, very high
> quality, not cheap around $200 or so if I remember right.
>
> On Sun, Oct 2, 2016 at 10:38 AM, Tommy Hill  wrote:
>
>> Ok, rebuilding mine and they are scratched pretty bad.  I am looking for
>> some forks that have no rust or scratches on the tubes.  All my other parts
>> are fine, just need the stainless tubes.  Anyone?
>>
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] 1985 CB650SC Nighthawk front forks

[Kurt Nolte]

They aren't stainless, they're hard chrome plated.

You could try to have yours reconditioned, or you can source some
replacements.

I've heard good things about a company called "Forking by Frank"
http://www.frankmain.qpg.com/

I believe Racetech also offers some in the right size.

I plan on replacement when I do my 650 rebuild.

Kurt

On Oct 2, 2016 10:38, "Tommy Hill"  wrote:

Ok, rebuilding mine and they are scratched pretty bad.  I am looking for
some forks that have no rust or scratches on the tubes.  All my other parts
are fine, just need the stainless tubes.  Anyone?

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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Weight of the centerstand?

[Kurt Nolte]

Ugh, just imagining going through putting it on and taking it off every oil
change made me cringe.

Totally not worth the effort for such a tiny weight change, especially one
down low where it won't even affect handling.

Kurt

On Sep 15, 2016 6:02 PM, "James O'Gorman" <aspor...@gmail.com> wrote:

> I would guess it is about 3-4 lbs for the assembly. So maybe ~.5% of total
> bike weight. Knowing that it is VERY useful but only a small percent of
> times, you could pull it to save weight and bolt it up for oil changes and
> service.
>
> On Sep 15, 2016, at 16:08, Kurt Nolte <vturbine.po...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> The center stand doesn't weigh much at all. It's pretty small, and it's
> made of bent and welded tube instead of solid stock. One spring, three
> bolts; there just isn't much there.
>
> It's utility-to-weight ratio is AMAZING though.
>
> If you're looking for performance improvements, I'd look elsewhere; you
> won't feel it. Synch the carbs, make sure they're clean, use good quality
> fuel, get a good quality fuel filter.
>
> Kurt
>
> On Sep 15, 2016 13:30, "menom7" <drewmcknigh...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> *Hi everyone,*
>>
>> *I just wanted to ask a pretty simple question on here,after SCOURING the
>> internet for HOURS,with ZERO-ANSWERS ANYWHERE!!! LOL.*
>>
>> *Anyhoo...I have a a 2001 Honda CB-750 that I bought "used" a few
>> years ago,and have enjoyed MANY trouble-free miles with it!!! When I get
>> "bored",I try to find a NEW way to "enhance" it's power/performance
>> characteristics,and knowing that by simply increasing it's
>> "power-to-weight" ratio,is probably one of the easiest ways to do this,I
>> wanted to ask ANYONE OUT THERE who may know the answer to
>> this,...*
>>
>> *HOW MUCH,does the centerstand ONLY,on this motorcycle weigh??? That's
>> INCLUDING all the nuts/bolts/collars,etc. that connect it to the bike
>> itself!?!?*
>>
>> *Any help on this question,would be GREATLY appreciated!!! When I bought
>> this,it had already been "lowsided" twice by the previous-owners of it,so I
>> had to rejuvenate it with some used parts,etc. to get it road-worthy,but it
>> DID NOT COME with the centerstand on it!!! There is only the "holes" in the
>> frame where it used to attach to it,so knowing thisI KNOW that
>> by NOT having it on the bike,that REDUCES the overall "weight" of it
>> significantly!!! Which helps not only my gas-mileage,but my
>> power/performance as well!!! So again,if anyone knows the answer to
>> this,PLEASE post on here!!! Thanks again!!! Keep the rubber on the road!!!
>> ~Peace~*
>>
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Weight of the centerstand?

[Kurt Nolte]

The center stand doesn't weigh much at all. It's pretty small, and it's
made of bent and welded tube instead of solid stock. One spring, three
bolts; there just isn't much there.

It's utility-to-weight ratio is AMAZING though.

If you're looking for performance improvements, I'd look elsewhere; you
won't feel it. Synch the carbs, make sure they're clean, use good quality
fuel, get a good quality fuel filter.

Kurt

On Sep 15, 2016 13:30, "menom7"  wrote:

> *Hi everyone,*
>
> *I just wanted to ask a pretty simple question on here,after SCOURING the
> internet for HOURS,with ZERO-ANSWERS ANYWHERE!!! LOL.*
>
> *Anyhoo...I have a a 2001 Honda CB-750 that I bought "used" a few
> years ago,and have enjoyed MANY trouble-free miles with it!!! When I get
> "bored",I try to find a NEW way to "enhance" it's power/performance
> characteristics,and knowing that by simply increasing it's
> "power-to-weight" ratio,is probably one of the easiest ways to do this,I
> wanted to ask ANYONE OUT THERE who may know the answer to
> this,...*
>
> *HOW MUCH,does the centerstand ONLY,on this motorcycle weigh??? That's
> INCLUDING all the nuts/bolts/collars,etc. that connect it to the bike
> itself!?!?*
>
> *Any help on this question,would be GREATLY appreciated!!! When I bought
> this,it had already been "lowsided" twice by the previous-owners of it,so I
> had to rejuvenate it with some used parts,etc. to get it road-worthy,but it
> DID NOT COME with the centerstand on it!!! There is only the "holes" in the
> frame where it used to attach to it,so knowing thisI KNOW that
> by NOT having it on the bike,that REDUCES the overall "weight" of it
> significantly!!! Which helps not only my gas-mileage,but my
> power/performance as well!!! So again,if anyone knows the answer to
> this,PLEASE post on here!!! Thanks again!!! Keep the rubber on the road!!!
> ~Peace~*
>
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Vacuum gauges

[Kurt Nolte]

I would very carefully inspect your tubing for small leaks. Losing
multiples at once is bizarre.

Kurt

On Sep 8, 2016 8:21 PM, "Graham Rogers"  wrote:

> Hey folks, I have a set of vacuum gauges that just quit working, no
> movement of the needles at all when hooked up to any running bike. Any
> ideas? Graham
>
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Fuel system

[Kurt Nolte]

I bought a little gallon and some change mower tank and made a stand. While
I was at it I mounted some vacuum gauges, now I have a synch stand.

Pictures later.

On Sep 8, 2016 4:44 PM, "Graham Rogers"  wrote:

> A tue and funnel?
>
> On Thursday, September 8, 2016, 'Ross M. Jamison' via Nighthawk Motorcycle
> Lovers!  wrote:
>
>> I've seen & am looking for a device that you hang above your bike & you
>> put fuel in it and connect the down tube to the carburetor inlet rail. It
>> will allow you to test run the bike without the fuel tank. I cannot think
>> of a name for it
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Tire pressure

[Kurt Nolte]

Inflate the tire to 29, then slop some soapy water on it around the bead
and valve stem. Look for a steady stream of tiny bubbles.

Kurt

On Sep 3, 2016 5:49 PM, "Dave duChêne"  wrote:

> try filling them with nitrogen
> Dave
>
> On 3 September 2016 at 17:02, Dan Cook  wrote:
>
>> Actually the tires were down to 25, not 27.
>>
>> On Sep 3, 2016 4:01 PM, "Dan Cook"  wrote:
>>
>>> About 2 weeks ago I checked my tire pressure and it was way low, like 15
>>> psi. So I filled the tires to 29 as instructed in the 2008 Nighthawk
>>> manual. (I didn't notice as much of an effect on traction as I expected.
>>> Another story.)
>>>
>>> Checked the tires again yesterday and they were down to 27 psi. Do I
>>> have a leak or is this normal?
>>>
>>> Thanks,
>>> Dan
>>>
>>> PS I rode past where I dropped my bike a few weeks ago and that curve
>>> was nothing!
>>>
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] No Rejetting required for Exhaust Baffle removal

[Kurt Nolte]

FYI, baffle-less bikes tend to get REALLY grating on extended or high speed
rides.

On Sep 3, 2016 10:26 AM, "'Ross M. Jamison' via Nighthawk Motorcycle
Lovers!"  wrote:

> I was looking at different nighthawks on YouTube and heard some with the
> baffles removed. They sounded neat
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Sep 3, 2016, at 9:24 AM, 'Ross M. Jamison' via Nighthawk Motorcycle
> Lovers!  wrote:
>
> Your correct. You can typically get more performance from a stock bike
> with modifications.
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Sep 3, 2016, at 8:58 AM, Javier Garcia  wrote:
>
> While I am not voting for removing baffles or even worse a straight pipe,
> I don't think the factory setup is for optimal performance. In fact, most
> Japanese bikes come pretty lean from factory to meet emissions regulations.
> Rejetting and adjusting the carbs will give you better performance even
> with the stock exhaust. Allen used to spend a lot of time on this, and I
> believe his 750 was the best tuned bike I had ever ridden.
>
> J.
>
> On Sat, Sep 3, 2016 at 6:33 AM, Jeremy  wrote:
>
>> Yeah!  It's pretty much like a Honda Civic, open it up, make it loud.
>> Jetting and opening exhaust does not add HP, you are moving the power
>> band.  You have to do internal engine mods to add HP.
>>
>> I agree do what you want, but it's a waste of time and screws up a bike
>> that was already dialed in by the factory for optimal performance.
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>> > On Sep 2, 2016, at 9:38 PM, pa_s...@verizon.net wrote:
>> >
>> > Do what You want to it. It's A Honda. (baffles are no big deal)
>> >
>> > Just RIDE / Have FUN / Be SAFE
>> >
>> > -Bern
>> >
>> >
>> > On 09/02/16, 'Ross M. Jamison' via Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers! wrote:
>> >
>> > Has anyone run their bike with the baffles removed? If so,do you have
>> to rejet your carbs?
>> >
>> > Sent from my iPhone
>> >
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] 1993 Nighthawk 750

[Kurt Nolte]

The Progressive Suspension website and PDF catalog are very useful tools
for figuring out what shocks to get.

How much drop are you looking for? Not to be personal, but do you have
short legs?

Kurt

On Aug 23, 2016 8:55 PM, "Javier Garcia"  wrote:

> I have the 412 on my 750 for at least 5 years. They are great I would
> never go back to the stocks. However I don't think they will lower your
> bike. You would need to find shorter shocks, probably for a different bike.
>
> Javier.
>
> On Tue, Aug 23, 2016 at 3:08 PM, Sue Macu  wrote:
>
>> Just purchased a 93 nighthawk 750 and needing to show it some love. One
>> thing is new rear shocks. Looking at the progressive 412, anyone know about
>> these? Hoping to lower the bike and keep the ride quality.
>>
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] 1993 Nighthawk 750

[Kurt Nolte]

Progressive 412 is a good shock. If you hunt through their catalog you can
find blacked out and combo black/chrome variants of the shock they list,
too.

On Aug 23, 2016 4:38 PM, "Sue Macu"  wrote:

> Just purchased a 93 nighthawk 750 and needing to show it some love. One
> thing is new rear shocks. Looking at the progressive 412, anyone know about
> these? Hoping to lower the bike and keep the ride quality.
>
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