RE: [old-chevy-truck] Window Rubber & Headliner Help

[Allen Jones]

I'll second that.



Allen

'50 3100 with all Steelrubber


From: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com [old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com] on 
behalf of Ken Cluley [kdclu...@yahoo.com]
Sent: Thursday, September 08, 2011 9:14 AM
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [old-chevy-truck] Window Rubber & Headliner Help



This is the best place I've found: http://www.steelerubber.com/


--- On Thu, 9/8/11, joerod...@aol.com 
mailto:JOEROD777%40aol.com>> wrote:

From: joerod...@aol.com 
mailto:JOEROD777%40aol.com>>
Subject: Re: [old-chevy-truck] Window Rubber & Headliner Help
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
Date: Thursday, September 8, 2011, 9:00 AM

Where is the best place to order quality rubber molding, weatherstripping, etc? 
 I have a 51 chevy 1/2T.

Joe

-Original Message-
From: Roy Marks mailto:rmarks10%40cox.net>>
To: old-chevy-truck 
mailto:old-chevy-truck%40yahoogroups.com>>
Sent: Wed, Sep 7, 2011 5:07 pm
Subject: Re: [old-chevy-truck] Window Rubber & Headliner Help

Cale,
I don't know about dampening the cardboard...I would be afraid of it getting 
messed up but it sounds like a good idea. However, I didn't dampen mine. What I 
did do was this.
First, I put the rear metal strip in place but with just a few screws and 
turned the screws in only far enough to hold it. Then I made sure the metal bow 
was open enough on both sides to slip over the cardboard. I put the bow on the 
rear piece and clamped it on the cardboard. Next, I sat on the seat withthe 
cardboard on my lap then raised it over my head and pushed it into the rear 
metal strip. I checked for fit and tucked things in on the sides. Finally, I 
pushed the front piece into the bow and fit it in the front, tucking things in. 
It wasn't as easy as it sounds but it wasn't really hard, either.
One other bit of advice. Don't do this on the hottest, most humid day of a 
Tidewater Virginia summer without a trace of a breeze blowing like I did.

Roy
'51 3600
The sleepy dragon

- Original Message -
From: cale_seavers
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, September 06, 2011 6:00 PM
Subject: [old-chevy-truck] Window Rubber & Headliner Help

I'm to the point in my headliner project that I'm ready to start thinking about 
the install of the headliner and re placement of the rubber around the door 
openings in the cab. So far I've stripped out the rock hard door rubber and 
removed the old headliner, prepped and sealed the roof with rust encapsulator 
and installed heat/sound insulation on the roof. I just need to install the 
replacement headliner and window lace, which I already ordered from classic 
parts. I've been reading up on install advice on the stovebolt site and 
previous posts here. Anyone have any advice on installing the headliner? 
(besides using a windshield install tool and dampening the cardboard to make it 
more flexable) I've heard headliner installs can be trying. Any any advice on 
installing the new door rubber into the channel on the cab? I thought at first 
I would try to slide it though the length of the channel because it seems to be 
too wide, but it won't go in easily, so I
think I am going to get it into place and try to jam it in. Any special tools 
for this job? Any help appreciated...I'll let you know how it turns out.
-cale
owensboro ky
51 1/2 ton

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



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RE: [old-chevy-truck] Re: Napco gem

[Allen Jones]

That's a lot of $ for those Napco data plates...



Allen

'50 3100




From: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com [old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com] on 
behalf of ccpanel [ccpa...@yahoo.com]
Sent: Friday, November 04, 2011 6:43 PM
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [old-chevy-truck] Re: Napco gem



thats not a 57 or a crew cab.

--- In 
old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com, 
 wrote:
>
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=260884662936
>
>
>
> _
>
> From: 
> old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com]
>  On Behalf Of twowheeler63
> Sent: Friday, November 04, 2011 5:04 AM
> To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [old-chevy-truck] Re: Napco gem
>
>
>
> It's on epay.
> =
> --- In 
> old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
>  , "ccpanel"  wrote:
> >
> > um-YES!!!
> >
> > how do I get it and where are the pictures?
> >=
> > --- In 
> > old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
>  , "twowheeler63" 
> wrote:
> > >
> > > Anyone else want the Napco crew cab 57? I know I do!
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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RE: [old-chevy-truck] Re: Brake Master Cylinder replacement

[Allen Jones]

With the proper drum-drum master, no combination valve is needed.  I used a 
Mustang master under my '50 3100 to stock wheels (huck hardware) and it works 
great.  The only other change I  made was of course plumbing to fluid circuits.



Allen

'50 3100


From: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com [old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com] on 
behalf of ccpanel [ccpa...@yahoo.com]
Sent: Friday, November 25, 2011 1:39 PM
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [old-chevy-truck] Re: Brake Master Cylinder replacement



You need to install the correct "combination valve".
my 69 chevy G20 van had drum/drum and had a combination valve.

when you go to front disc you can just swap the valve out for a disc/drum 
valve(73-81 camaro works great)

you need the valve to keep residual pressure in the lines to not have to pump 
teh brakes to make them work. the drums have strong springs and need 10# to 
keep them close to teh drums to work in time.

read teh info on teh CPP pages form great tech instruction.

and I second the rockauto.com recomendation. saves me 50% over kragen/oreileys 
every time I shop.
mark

--- In 
old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com, 
bullsand bears  wrote:
>
> What is the best practice to replace the Master Cylinder with a dual 
> reservoir?
>
> What other components (pressure valve) will be needed?  I'm still running 
> Drum / Drum brakes?
>
> Thanks.
>
> Bob Austin51 3600
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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RE: [old-chevy-truck] Re: MODELS: 1950 & 1953 Chevrolet Pickups

[Allen Jones]

I'm not sure the comments were out of bounds, although they were perhaps harsh. 
 This is a site with what I would call high technical content.  The comments 
may be useful to the novice who is trying to figure out what the difference 
between years are/is.  I like that Mark repointed us to what this site was 
originally started for - stock trucks.  The more that premise gets watered 
down, the more we need to stick up for it.



Keep it stock!



Allen

'50 3100




From: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com [old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com] on 
behalf of Arizona Real Estate [tikua...@yahoo.com]
Sent: Saturday, February 18, 2012 12:01 PM
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [old-chevy-truck] Re: MODELS: 1950 & 1953 Chevrolet Pickups



Mark, you were out of bounds with your whiney comments; after all Garnet was 
just trying to spread a little positive info.  I appreciate Garnet's mentioning 
of these inexpensive models; as I had seen them on TV.  A cynic is a person who 
knows the cost of things, but doesn't comprehend the value of them.  Garnet, 
thank you for letting us know about the Chevy Pick Up models.

Charlie Olson,  an imperfect model myself


From: G. Kelly mailto:gkelly%40wolfenet.com>>
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, February 18, 2012 10:38 AM
Subject: [old-chevy-truck] Re: MODELS: 1950 & 1953 Chevrolet Pickups

Mark,

> too bad those are both 1953  models and the fact sheet
> is wrong. =(  1947  was the first year of the "roomier cab"
> the 50 should have one-piece side glass and turn-down
> handles.
>
> the mirror arm on drivers side should be bent down to
> clear the new wing window in 51-55
>
> the 53 hood side emblem should only say 3100 with a
> wavy bar on top. no chevrolet.
>
> and I am betting the board count in both models is the same.
>
> bugs me when model makes just slap a new year label
> on the box and dont change the model to reflect the truth.
> Mark

For crying out load Mark, these are very cheap models for only a few
dollars!  No, they are not going to be perfect!  I can't think of a single
model I've ever bought for hundreds of dollars which was as perfect as you
claim these cheap models should be.  I've got dozens of expensive models and
I can find faults with each one of them.  None of them are perfect!  You'll
have to spend in the thousands of dollars to get a model which looks perfect
and even then it won't be.

If you feel so strong that these cheap models should be perfect then why
don't you write to Motormint and tell them.

I'll bet I am not the only one who'd love to be able to purchase perfect
models for only $20.

Garnet



Ole Chevy and GMC trucks rule!

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RE: [old-chevy-truck] Re: ! KEEP IT STOCK !

[Allen Jones]

Thank you, Nate.  Being an original lister, here is the story of this yahoo 
group.  Back in 1999, us old timers were on another list for old trucks the 
went all what Nate says below.  Rob was one of the stockers and had the 
fortitude to start this list.  I highly recommend that everyone go back to the 
main page for this list and Rob's welcome message from September of 1999, and 
read BOTH.



>From the main page of this group:  "Dedicated to the preservation and 
>restoration of stock 1941-1959 Chevy and GMC trucks. KEEP IT STOCK!" and from 
>Rob's welcome message: "The list is of course, intended to promote stock or 
>modified enough to make them safe and able to handle todays traffic." and "My 
>main reason for starting this group was to make it smaller, more cohesive, and 
>devoted to AD stockers. However, I really don't have anything against the 
>TF'ers, nor the Art Decos, as long as they are not heavily rodded. Even those 
>I don't personally object to, but they are not my cup of tea, and if
we all like ours stock, then a lot of the rodding discussions are wasted on us."



Yep, I'm an old geezer and miss the good old days when we used to focus on 
stock trucks - that's why I'm here.



Allen

50 3100

50 John Deere A

55 M38A1

70 M35A2

73 K20

79 K5

etc.

05 red heeler




From: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com [old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com] on 
behalf of Nate [vwna...@yahoo.com]
Sent: Tuesday, February 21, 2012 5:14 PM
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [old-chevy-truck] Re: ! KEEP IT STOCK !



I don't think you alls are getting the idea here :

Rob wanted this list to be for real truck enthusiasts , not Hot Rodders who 
pretty much destroy old trucks .

" Stock " means (to me anyway) not automatically slapping in a V-ate mill , 
chroming averything , like that .

My old trucks are certainly not restored but , they're largely stock , they're 
working rigs , fun too .

I know for a fact that there are many Hot Rodders here who respect Rob's wishes 
and don't clutter up the forum with endless talks about Lokar cable shifters , 
blah blah blah...

It's ALL good , just keep it sweet , pete .

-Nate
Mike wrote:
>
> I don't know what it means to Keep It Stock. I have had my truck for over 40 
> years and it wasn't stock when I got it in 1969. It's an old farm truck, and 
> you know what farmers did to their trucks. Back in the 70's, you couldn't get 
> parts for these things, and I had to make comprises to keep it on the road. 
> It has a replacement engine but still a 216 and it's never been re-painted. 
> It's about as stock as I can get it without spending a lot of $.
>
>





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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RE: [old-chevy-truck] Re : Door Swap

[Allen Jones]

Your experience sounds normal.  In every AD cab I've worked with, I usually 
spend several days reworking both the door and cab opening to get a good fit.  
IMO I think it's easier to shorten than lengthen.  My suspicions are that there 
were several very poorly duplicated dies back in the 40s and 50s.



Allen 50 3100




From: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com [old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com] on 
behalf of Deve Krehbiel [dkrehb...@cox.net]
Sent: Tuesday, February 28, 2012 7:27 AM
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [old-chevy-truck] Re : Door Swap



I would argue the part where Larry said 'the worst case is a little
modification' from personal experience, but I dont expect you will run into
what I did. The donor doors were a full 1/4" too long for the opening in the
cab!!! We are talking about cutting the door opening, pushing it back,
re-welding, etc, etc, then doing the extensive body work that happens after
that. My suggestion (shoulda followed my own advice) is to get different
doors if that happens. But yeah, newer striker plates bolt right in or you
can do what I did and modify the old ones with new metal to reshape the old
striker plates. I didnt like the looks of the new ones. Im crazy I know!

Deve
www.speedprint.com/Deves50

-Original Message-
From: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com]
 On Behalf Of Nate
Sent: Monday, February 27, 2012 4:51 PM
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [old-chevy-truck] Re : Door Swap

IIRC ;

All you needs do is buy the later style striker plates , this is the
stationary part on the doorframe , then the '53 doors should work .

-Nate
Larry wrote:
>
> I hope is that I can use the hardware from the 49...Good news both doors
can
> be picked up for $175.00, Worse case is a little modification.
>
>
>
> Larry
>
>
>
>



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RE: [old-chevy-truck] oil pan

[Allen Jones]

The Toyota F series engine was a licensed version of the 235 (1960 to 1975) 
from GM.  They did not use junkyard cores.  The main difference (there are 
several) between the F engine and the US version was all the tapped holes were 
metric.  The Toyota 2F engine (1975 to 1980-something) had more Toyota design 
elements and was bigger, abandoning the 235 moniker.



Allen

'50 3100

'73 FJ40 (Landcruiser) wishing I hadn't sold it.


From: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com [old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com] on 
behalf of James Tye [dazys...@yahoo.com]
Sent: Sunday, May 13, 2012 7:54 AM
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [old-chevy-truck] oil pan




I heard that Toyota used the 235 engine in early seventies engines.  I heard 
they actually scoured the junk yards at one point for cores.  What I don't know 
is what they called this engine.  I believe if I knew the name and numbers I 
could possibly use the Toyota oil pan which I ended up brazing up an oil pan 
for my 235 until I can find a good oil pan for permanant mount.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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RE: [old-chevy-truck] Re : 5 gallon motor oil

[Allen Jones]

Ya, isn't that interesting?  I find the gallons convenient, but they still cost 
more to buy than the quarts!  Darn packaging.  You really don't start to see 
any savings over quarts until you get into 55 gallon quantities.  All the sales 
and promotions are on quarts.  Even with businesses that buy wholesale (at 
least for me).  A real PITA when you change a service truck out - that takes 7 
gallons of engine oil.

Allen
'50 3100


From: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com [old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com] on 
behalf of Luke Zsiga [50ch...@gmail.com]
Sent: Monday, May 21, 2012 2:50 PM
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [old-chevy-truck] Re : 5 gallon motor oil

I did a quick search and what I saw is that buying a 5 gallon bucket of
motor oil will be about $30 more expensive than buying 5 gallons worth of
whatever oil oreillys has on sale.

Thanks for the input,
Luke
 On May 20, 2012 6:36 PM, "Nate"  wrote:

> **
>
>
>
> COSTCO / Sam's Club OnLine ? .
>
> Maybe go to your local Peterbuilt Dealer ? Semis take gallons of oil when
> changed so most any Diesel Truck Shop should have it and , Diesel rated
> oils are better for your old tech Stovebolt .
>
> -Nate
> Luke wrote:
> >
> > Hi guys!
> > I am wanting to save some money and try to buy one of those large buckets
> > of motor oil for when I change my trucks oil. Buying individual quarts or
> > even 5 quart jugs is way to expensive for a penny pincher like me.
> >
> > Where is the best place to find a 5 gallon bucket of motor oil? I assume
> I
> > have to find it locally since shipping 5 gallons of oil will be
> expensive.
> > I live in San Diego.
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Luke
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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RE: [old-chevy-truck] headliner help?

[Allen Jones]

There is also a channel the separates the two halves of the headliner.  I can't 
recall if it's U shaped or S shaped.  It would show up in the repair manual.



Allen



50 3100


From: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com [old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com] on 
behalf of Brenda and Robert Greulich [greul...@sbcglobal.net]
Sent: Wednesday, June 27, 2012 9:14 AM
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [old-chevy-truck] headliner help?



is it the trim for the windshield

IN GOD I TRUST. HAVE A GREAT DAY

--- On Tue, 6/26/12, Allen 
mailto:brutus4400%40yahoo.com>> wrote:

From: Allen mailto:brutus4400%40yahoo.com>>
Subject: [old-chevy-truck] headliner help?
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
Date: Tuesday, June 26, 2012, 9:49 PM



Hi guys,

I am just getting my 1949 back together after taking it apart about 12 years 
ago.

I have 2 pcs of "U" channel about 14" long that I can't figure out where they 
go.

I had them in the area with the rest of the headliner stuff so I am pretty sure 
they should fit in somewhere.

I have the shop and assembly manual but can't find anything about them there.

I just created an ablum in the photos section "Allen's 49" I have 3 pictures of 
my mystery parts there.

I am sort of thinking the bars or channels go between the headliner and the 
roof and the fastners go through the headliner.

Apprecate any help you can give!

Allen

South eastern PA

1949 1 1/2ton

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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RE: [old-chevy-truck] Re: timing with electronic ignition

[Allen Jones]

Correct, not Pertronix.  It's HEI and that will be set way different than the 
stock distributor with breakerless points (Pertronix).  The ball is not 
necessarily at 5 degrees.  Stock 49 to 52 are 5 degrees, 53 is 2 degrees.  And 
who knows what has been installed in between.  I have Langdon's HEI in my 6 and 
have it at about 10 degrees BTDC as well.  You can also use the knock (ping) 
method to adjust the timing (which is what I did and still lit back on 10 
degrees).  Sound like you have it pretty close.  I don't have my HEI plugs set 
to 0.070", something less but more than 0.040".  Langdon's instructions has the 
specs.



Allen

'50 3100


From: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com [old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com] on 
behalf of rmark...@cox.net [rmark...@cox.net]
Sent: Tuesday, July 17, 2012 5:44 PM
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
Cc: Nate
Subject: Re: [old-chevy-truck] Re: timing with electronic ignition



Nate...not Pertronix. I had a Pertronix but went all the way up to HEI. Gaps 
are at .70. I started to use your advance till it pings but never got there. I 
stopped at 10 BTDC basically afraid to go any farther. However, it looks like 
Bob is at 20 - the original 5 or 6 (BB) plus 15.

Roy

 Nate mailto:vwnate1%40yahoo.com>> wrote:
>
> The timing remains the same , ball on pointer @ idle speed of 700 RPM os less 
> , check to insure there is NO vacuum signal to the dist. @ idle before you 
> adjust it .
>
> Don't forget to open up those plug gaps to .040" to get the full advantage of 
> the Pertronix .
>
> -Nate
> Roy wrote:
> >
> > I put Tom Langdon's HEI ignition on my 216 and it runs very well. However, 
> > I am just curious if anyone else has done the same and if you have, what do 
> > you have your timing set at? Mine is 10 degrees BTDC.
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Roy
> > '51 3600
> > The Sleepy Dragon
> >
>
>





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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RE: [old-chevy-truck] Re: timing with electronic ignition

[Allen Jones]

Deve,



The performance is outstanding!  That being said, I just can't stand the looks 
of it.  I'm a hard core stocker (or period correct modifications) and to me it 
looks like a giant wart on the end of a nose.  The one I have has the divorced 
square coil and that adds at least a 1/2" to the wart.  But, you can definitely 
notice a big difference between HEI and anything you put up against it.  And 
that includes the pertronix module.  Long story short, I took it off my '50 and 
put it on something I consider a Frankenstein - my shop truck.



If you want something that looks better, find the small hat (cap) HEI 
distributor and modify it (or buy Langdon's).  It does look leaps better but I 
think its 2 to 5 Hamilton's more that the "traditional" HEI.  I even saw a 261 
the other day with individual coils on each cylinder.  I'll bet that makes the 
HEI perform like a points distributor.



I do have a used setup if anyone wants to buy it.  It's the large cap, divorced 
square coil type and for some reason there's two sets of different spark plugs. 
 Must have been messing around.  My homemade wiring hardness with a relay is in 
the box (that thing drawing the amperage so the stock distributor wire will NOT 
work).  Email me off list.



Allen




From: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com [old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com] on 
behalf of Deve Krehbiel [dkrehb...@cox.net]
Sent: Thursday, July 19, 2012 5:29 PM
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [old-chevy-truck] Re: timing with electronic ignition



Are you happy with Langdon's HEI? I am thinking of going that route too.

Thx Allen!

Deve
www.speedprint.com/Deves50

-Original Message-
From: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com<mailto:old-chevy-truck%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com<mailto:old-chevy-truck%40yahoogroups.com>]
 On Behalf Of Allen Jones
Sent: Tuesday, July 17, 2012 10:44 PM
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com<mailto:old-chevy-truck%40yahoogroups.com>
Subject: RE: [old-chevy-truck] Re: timing with electronic ignition

Correct, not Pertronix. It's HEI and that will be set way different than
the stock distributor with breakerless points (Pertronix). The ball is not
necessarily at 5 degrees. Stock 49 to 52 are 5 degrees, 53 is 2 degrees.
And who knows what has been installed in between. I have Langdon's HEI in
my 6 and have it at about 10 degrees BTDC as well. You can also use the
knock (ping) method to adjust the timing (which is what I did and still lit
back on 10 degrees). Sound like you have it pretty close. I don't have my
HEI plugs set to 0.070", something less but more than 0.040". Langdon's
instructions has the specs.

Allen

'50 3100


From: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com<mailto:old-chevy-truck%40yahoogroups.com> 
[old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com<mailto:old-chevy-truck%40yahoogroups.com>] on
behalf of rmark...@cox.net<mailto:rmarks10%40cox.net> 
[rmark...@cox.net<mailto:rmarks10%40cox.net>]
Sent: Tuesday, July 17, 2012 5:44 PM
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com<mailto:old-chevy-truck%40yahoogroups.com>
Cc: Nate
Subject: Re: [old-chevy-truck] Re: timing with electronic ignition

Nate...not Pertronix. I had a Pertronix but went all the way up to HEI. Gaps
are at .70. I started to use your advance till it pings but never got there.
I stopped at 10 BTDC basically afraid to go any farther. However, it looks
like Bob is at 20 - the original 5 or 6 (BB) plus 15.

Roy

 Nate 
mailto:vwnate1%40yahoo.com><mailto:vwnate1%40yahoo.com>> 
wrote:
>
> The timing remains the same , ball on pointer @ idle speed of 700 RPM os
less , check to insure there is NO vacuum signal to the dist. @ idle before
you adjust it .
>
> Don't forget to open up those plug gaps to .040" to get the full advantage
of the Pertronix .
>
> -Nate
> Roy wrote:
> >
> > I put Tom Langdon's HEI ignition on my 216 and it runs very well.
However, I am just curious if anyone else has done the same and if you have,
what do you have your timing set at? Mine is 10 degrees BTDC.
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Roy
> > '51 3600
> > The Sleepy Dragon
> >
>
>

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Ole Chevy and GMC trucks rule!

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 Groups Links





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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RE: [old-chevy-truck] Re: timing with electronic ignition

[Allen Jones]

I found Langdon's instruction in my file cabinet (nice when things work they 
way they should) and he suggest an *initial* timing of 10 BTDC.  The 
instructions say final timing will be 10 to 18 (without vacuum).  So going 
beyond the 10 will be fine (and of course depend on your engine setup).  He 
suggests plug gaps at 0.060" to 0.080".



Hope that helps.



Allen


From: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com [old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com] on 
behalf of rmark...@cox.net [rmark...@cox.net]
Sent: Tuesday, July 17, 2012 5:45 PM
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
Cc: Nate
Subject: Re: [old-chevy-truck] Re: timing with electronic ignition



Oops, I meant Dennis. I got my Bills and Bobs and Dennis' mixed up.

Roy

 Nate mailto:vwnate1%40yahoo.com>> wrote:
>
> The timing remains the same , ball on pointer @ idle speed of 700 RPM os less 
> , check to insure there is NO vacuum signal to the dist. @ idle before you 
> adjust it .
>
> Don't forget to open up those plug gaps to .040" to get the full advantage of 
> the Pertronix .
>
> -Nate
> Roy wrote:
> >
> > I put Tom Langdon's HEI ignition on my 216 and it runs very well. However, 
> > I am just curious if anyone else has done the same and if you have, what do 
> > you have your timing set at? Mine is 10 degrees BTDC.
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Roy
> > '51 3600
> > The Sleepy Dragon
> >
>
>





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





Ole Chevy and GMC trucks rule!

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RE: [old-chevy-truck] Re: timing with electronic ignition

[Allen Jones]

Meant to say Jacksons.  It's embarrassing when I don't even know the 
presidents.  Sorry.



____
From: Allen Jones
Sent: Saturday, July 21, 2012 4:16 PM
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [old-chevy-truck] Re: timing with electronic ignition


Deve,



The performance is outstanding!  That being said, I just can't stand the looks 
of it.  I'm a hard core stocker (or period correct modifications) and to me it 
looks like a giant wart on the end of a nose.  The one I have has the divorced 
square coil and that adds at least a 1/2" to the wart.  But, you can definitely 
notice a big difference between HEI and anything you put up against it.  And 
that includes the pertronix module.  Long story short, I took it off my '50 and 
put it on something I consider a Frankenstein - my shop truck.



If you want something that looks better, find the small hat (cap) HEI 
distributor and modify it (or buy Langdon's).  It does look leaps better but I 
think its 2 to 5 Hamilton's more that the "traditional" HEI.  I even saw a 261 
the other day with individual coils on each cylinder.  I'll bet that makes the 
HEI perform like a points distributor.



I do have a used setup if anyone wants to buy it.  It's the large cap, divorced 
square coil type and for some reason there's two sets of different spark plugs. 
 Must have been messing around.  My homemade wiring hardness with a relay is in 
the box (that thing drawing the amperage so the stock distributor wire will NOT 
work).  Email me off list.



Allen




From: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com [old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com] on 
behalf of Deve Krehbiel [dkrehb...@cox.net]
Sent: Thursday, July 19, 2012 5:29 PM
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [old-chevy-truck] Re: timing with electronic ignition



Are you happy with Langdon's HEI? I am thinking of going that route too.

Thx Allen!

Deve
www.speedprint.com/Deves50

-Original Message-
From: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com<mailto:old-chevy-truck%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com<mailto:old-chevy-truck%40yahoogroups.com>]
 On Behalf Of Allen Jones
Sent: Tuesday, July 17, 2012 10:44 PM
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com<mailto:old-chevy-truck%40yahoogroups.com>
Subject: RE: [old-chevy-truck] Re: timing with electronic ignition

Correct, not Pertronix. It's HEI and that will be set way different than
the stock distributor with breakerless points (Pertronix). The ball is not
necessarily at 5 degrees. Stock 49 to 52 are 5 degrees, 53 is 2 degrees.
And who knows what has been installed in between. I have Langdon's HEI in
my 6 and have it at about 10 degrees BTDC as well. You can also use the
knock (ping) method to adjust the timing (which is what I did and still lit
back on 10 degrees). Sound like you have it pretty close. I don't have my
HEI plugs set to 0.070", something less but more than 0.040". Langdon's
instructions has the specs.

Allen

'50 3100


From: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com<mailto:old-chevy-truck%40yahoogroups.com> 
[old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com<mailto:old-chevy-truck%40yahoogroups.com>] on
behalf of rmark...@cox.net<mailto:rmarks10%40cox.net> 
[rmark...@cox.net<mailto:rmarks10%40cox.net>]
Sent: Tuesday, July 17, 2012 5:44 PM
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com<mailto:old-chevy-truck%40yahoogroups.com>
Cc: Nate
Subject: Re: [old-chevy-truck] Re: timing with electronic ignition

Nate...not Pertronix. I had a Pertronix but went all the way up to HEI. Gaps
are at .70. I started to use your advance till it pings but never got there.
I stopped at 10 BTDC basically afraid to go any farther. However, it looks
like Bob is at 20 - the original 5 or 6 (BB) plus 15.

Roy

 Nate 
mailto:vwnate1%40yahoo.com><mailto:vwnate1%40yahoo.com>> 
wrote:
>
> The timing remains the same , ball on pointer @ idle speed of 700 RPM os
less , check to insure there is NO vacuum signal to the dist. @ idle before
you adjust it .
>
> Don't forget to open up those plug gaps to .040" to get the full advantage
of the Pertronix .
>
> -Nate
> Roy wrote:
> >
> > I put Tom Langdon's HEI ignition on my 216 and it runs very well.
However, I am just curious if anyone else has done the same and if you have,
what do you have your timing set at? Mine is 10 degrees BTDC.
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Roy
> > '51 3600
> > The Sleepy Dragon
> >
>
>

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Ole Chevy and GMC trucks rule!

To unsubscribe, send an email (with no subject, no body, just the email),
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RE: [old-chevy-truck] Re : 216 Valves

[Allen Jones]

Ok, BUT what if the machinist honked out the pocket for the seat too far and 
installed the seat too deep?  Or cut the valve seat too far?  This would cause 
the problem as well.  If all the valve seats are installed and ground properly, 
there is no need to "adjust" the stems, they will be straight.  If they have to 
grind that much off the stem to make the rocker work, there are some problems 
on the other side of the head to be addressed.  I call that sloppy machining.



Allen

'50 3100


From: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com [old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com] on 
behalf of Nate [vwna...@yahoo.com]
Sent: Sunday, August 12, 2012 8:07 PM
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [old-chevy-truck] Re : 216 Valves



Remove rocker shaft and lay a straight edge across all the valve stems , they 
*must* be equal ~ if not , the Machine Shop will grind them even for no extra 
charge .

-Nate
Wayne wrote :
>
> Hello Gentleman,
>
> I have a 1941 1/2 ton 216 that I had a bent push rod and broken rocker arm. I 
> pulled the head sent it out and had all of the springs and valves replaced 
> and a valve job done. I reinstalled the head and then rocker arm assembly but 
> ran into an odd problem. I have one rocker arm that will not go on and by 
> that I mean when I tighten down the assembly the last rocker arm next to the 
> fire wall has no adjustment and as I tighten the post the rocker arm pushes 
> the valve down and that is with the adjuster completely removed. The only 
> conclusion I can make is that when the valves were ground that last valve was 
> ground to much and allow that valve to stick up higher leaving no way to 
> adjust.
> I am going to try and measure the height of the valve stem from head and see 
> if it is different that the other #2's
>
> Any suggestions are very welcome.
>
> Thanks
> Wayne
>





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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RE: [old-chevy-truck] Carby Question

[Allen Jones]

I have dual carbs too.  What model carbs do you have?  Rochester B's, Carters?  
Knowing would help.  You say they are manual (cable) but you mention a choke 
spring?  Meaning automatic?  I'm assuming this is on an I6?  You have to have 
the choke cable go to BOTH carbs to get both chokes to operate properly, if 
they are indeed manual.  I cabled my chokes in series and it works pretty well.



Allen

'50 5100




From: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com [old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com] on 
behalf of rmark...@cox.net [rmark...@cox.net]
Sent: Saturday, September 08, 2012 6:35 AM
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [old-chevy-truck] Carby Question



I need to understand how fast idle works. Here is my issue. I hav a dual carb
set up and had to replace one. I used one that I rebuilt. Everything works very
weel except fast idle. When I am driving the truck and come to a stop, it is in
fast idle and I have to tap the accelerator to "kick it down". Clearly I did
something wrong in my re-build but to fix it I need to understand how it is
supposed to work. I can see it is tied to the choke operation. It is a manual
choke and the carb in question does not have a choke cable to it, the other one
does. I followed the instructions on adjusting fast idle and it appears to be
set right. I am wondering if I wound the choke spring too tight or maybe not
tight enough. So..have I provided enough to get a little education/help?

Thanks,
Roy
'51





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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RE: [old-chevy-truck] Re : Oil Pressure Gauge

[Allen Jones]

Haha, good one.




From: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com [old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com] on 
behalf of Hanlon, Bill [bill.han...@hp.com]
Sent: Wednesday, October 10, 2012 8:44 AM
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [old-chevy-truck] Re : Oil Pressure Gauge



I'm surprised a Chevy 216 will generate enough oil pressure to cause a leak. ;-)


From: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com 
[mailto:old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com]
 On Behalf Of Green, Steven D.
Sent: Wednesday, October 10, 2012 8:13 AM
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [old-chevy-truck] Re : Oil Pressure Gauge

My oil pressure gauge is leaking where the line connects to the gauge in the 
dash. I tightened it as tight as I thought was safe and it still drips. It's a 
216 and all stock. What should I look for to fix the problem?

Steve
1952 3600-the one with the drip
1953 3100

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





Ole Chevy and GMC trucks rule!

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RE: [old-chevy-truck] interior question--windlace tips

[Allen Jones]

I used a small plastic tool used to install these kinds of parts and used the 
"tuck" methods.  Tuck and poke, tuck and poke..  If you are patient, you will 
not harm the lace.



Al Jones

'50 3100




From: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com [old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com] on 
behalf of Green, Steven D. [sgr...@ku.edu]
Sent: Tuesday, October 16, 2012 4:28 PM
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [old-chevy-truck] interior question--windlace tips



I began the dubious task of replacing the cab windlace rubber in my 52 3600. 
With water and dishsoap I only get about 2 ft installed before it gets 
impossible to pull.

What is the secret? K-Y jelly?

Thanks,
Steve

1952 3600
1953 3100

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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RE: [old-chevy-truck] Re: worn front axle

[Allen Jones]

That actually helps you (having one good side).  A good machine shop will need 
to make sure that the caster and camber of the new hole (and sleeve) matches 
the drivers side or it will ruin the axle.  The reference is the spring perch 
(quite a ways away) so it's actually not an easy setup on a mechanical mill 
with a big axle (is your dump a two ton?).  Good luck finding another axel, 
right?  I had to sleeve my drivers side - so you are not the first.  Back to 
your original question.  I'm in farm country where this is done frequently and 
I can see a $200 or $300 bill to have it done correctly.  So if you are in the 
big city (I was a 20 year resident of Seattle), I can see it being $400.  
That's the premium to work on old stuff.  Hopefully that includes reaming the 
soft bushings too.



Good luck,

Al Jones

Brookings, SD


From: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com [old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com] on 
behalf of randy [randygillil...@yahoo.com]
Sent: Sunday, October 21, 2012 12:38 PM
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [old-chevy-truck] Re: worn front axle



It is the casting itself that is worn away the bushing floats in the oblong 
hole. Steering was basically non existent. The parts all fit together fine on 
the driver's side so I'm pretty sure I've got the right kit.

--- In 
old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com, 
 wrote:
>
> Did the old king pin float in there (do you have the right king pin?)
>
> The whole kit should look like this:
>
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem
> 
> &item=280952291774
>
> You take the parts to a machine shop, they press out the old bushings, press
> in the new and ream the result so the king pin just barely fits.
>
> You can disassemble and assemble the parts. Be VERY careful to get the
> washers in there correctly. I believe there are several that bear the weight
> of the truck and need to be in the right place.
>
> $400 is too much.
>
> Bill in Oregon
>
>
>
> _
>
> From: 
> old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com]
>  On Behalf Of randy
> Sent: Saturday, October 20, 2012 5:43 PM
> To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [old-chevy-truck] worn front axle
>
>
>
> greetings from the northwest! I have the axle out of my '50 dump truck. The
> passenger side has so much wear that a new king pin just floats around in
> it. I took it to a machine shop and they said it could take about $400.00 to
> get it bored out and re bushed. Is that sounding about right? Should I go
> looking for another axle? Do the various tonnage trucks use the same axle? I
> would spend the money to get it right but don't know if i'm missing a better
> option. Has anyone done this repair? How did it go? Any help is appreciated!
> Thanks, Randy
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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RE: [old-chevy-truck] Grille Parts Help Needed

[Allen Jones]

Yes, the big truck grilles are wider.  I have both and have measured, but I'm 
sorry, don't have the length measurements anymore.  Are you trying to figure 
out which grill bar and filler is in the stack?  Each bar has a notch or 
notches that tell you where they go in the stack.  I don't think the top bar 
has a notch.  The notches are obvious.  Was that your question?



Good luck.



Allen


From: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com [old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com] on 
behalf of Deve Krehbiel [dkrehb...@cox.net]
Sent: Thursday, November 01, 2012 7:59 AM
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [old-chevy-truck] Grille Parts Help Needed



I am trying to make sense out of a pile of grille parts I have accumulated
over the years and recently acquired (thx John!) and I THINK the big trucks
have a different size grille. So if you have a pile of grille parts, its
about enough to send you to the funny farm (which I have visited already on
numerous occasions) to figure out what goes with what. Does anyone out there
know for sure if the big trucks are for sure different, and any sizing info
or anything to help would be greatly appreciated. 47-53 of course. Thx!





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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RE: [old-chevy-truck] Grille Parts Help Needed

[Allen Jones]

I just talked with the neighbor and he reminded me that the grill I measured 
was a COE.  And the COE grills may not be the same as the big truck.  So my 
earlier statement about the width may not be correct.  The notch information is 
correct (I just looked at a stack of bars).  Sorry, Deve if that messed you up.

Allen


From: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com [old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com] on 
behalf of Allen Jones [jone...@myuw.net]
Sent: Thursday, November 01, 2012 6:14 PM
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [old-chevy-truck] Grille Parts Help Needed

Yes, the big truck grilles are wider.  I have both and have measured, but I'm 
sorry, don't have the length measurements anymore.  Are you trying to figure 
out which grill bar and filler is in the stack?  Each bar has a notch or 
notches that tell you where they go in the stack.  I don't think the top bar 
has a notch.  The notches are obvious.  Was that your question?



Good luck.



Allen


From: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com [old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com] on 
behalf of Deve Krehbiel [dkrehb...@cox.net]
Sent: Thursday, November 01, 2012 7:59 AM
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [old-chevy-truck] Grille Parts Help Needed



I am trying to make sense out of a pile of grille parts I have accumulated
over the years and recently acquired (thx John!) and I THINK the big trucks
have a different size grille. So if you have a pile of grille parts, its
about enough to send you to the funny farm (which I have visited already on
numerous occasions) to figure out what goes with what. Does anyone out there
know for sure if the big trucks are for sure different, and any sizing info
or anything to help would be greatly appreciated. 47-53 of course. Thx!





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





Ole Chevy and GMC trucks rule!

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RE: [old-chevy-truck] Voltage Reducer

[Allen Jones]

Your accessory voltage reducer is nothing more than a large carbon pile 
resistor.  The way it drops voltage is by dissipating heat.  Keep that thing 
away from anything you don't want to melt.  A few on the list have provided 
good suggestions: measure the voltage to see where you are.  The advantage to 
the resistor you have is that if it decided to fail, it pushes the carbon pile 
out the end - no catastrophic failure to do any damage.  Another option is to 
look in a FLAPS heater motor catalog and find an exact, 12V replacement 
(mounting posts and shaft length/diameter) for your 6 volt motor.  That's what 
I did on my 50 to eliminate the need for an external resistor and nobody can 
tell the difference by looking.  A $35 job back then.  Note that your two speed 
heater switch does the same thing as your accessory voltage reducer - it has a 
resistor in line for the low speed.  Perhaps a motivation to get the "correct" 
motor in your heater box.  Given you have converted everything else to 12v, 
there seems to be little motivation to keep the original heater motor.



A stock tube radio on the other hand, is another story.  Your accessory voltage 
reducer would not work very well (I'll bet you it would eventually fail in 
short order).  I used a LARGE heat dissipating ceramic resistor with my tube 
radio for that job.  And it gets way too hot to touch because as someone 
mentioned, the radio draws oodles more amperage than the heater motor.  FYI, if 
you do have a radio and have converted to 12v, you can replace the power supply 
vibrator in the radio with choice 1) a solid state vibrator for more stable 
output (that's what I did) or choice 2) they now make a solid state vibrator 
that allows for 12v input.  Even a better option to get rid of that hot 
resistor.  Some modification is needed, though (like changing the face light 
bulbs to 12v).



Good luck.



Allen

'50 3100


From: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com [old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com] on 
behalf of fahrbach51 [mfahrb...@hughes.net]
Sent: Sunday, November 11, 2012 7:56 AM
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [old-chevy-truck] Voltage Reducer



Help for the limited of knowledge, please. After converting my 1951 3600 to 
12-volt, and with the onset of another Kansas winter, I've decided to make 
ready the dealer-installed recirculating heater. After replacing the hoses and 
running through some magic radiator sealer, I believe the core will hold. Now 
to the 6-volt fan motor. I purchased, from Classic Parts of America, part 
#24-996 Accessory Voltage Reducer which is supposed to reduce the voltage for 
radios or heaters. I have no reason to advertise for them, I mention it only in 
case someone wants to look up that part and see what I have. I powered the 
heater fan switch directly from the ignition switch, and wired the reducer 
between the post on the switch and the fan motor, and the switch will power the 
motor at all 3 speeds, but I don't believe it is reducing any voltage. I swear 
the fan is spinning fast enough to move the pickup forward, and I'm just 
certain it is receiving too much voltage. Also, th! e reducer gets very hot. 
Any advice appreciated on whether I'm installing the reducer incorrectly? I 
don't want to burn up this 60 year old motor, and also wonder if it isn't wiser 
to part with $65 and buy a 12-volt motor?

And most importantly, my heartfelt gratitude goes out to all Veterans, living 
and parted, who have sacrificed to make our homes and families safe. There are 
more of us than you know who do not take your gift to us for granted.

Fahrbach '51 3600





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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RE: [old-chevy-truck] Re : Fuel Pump

[Allen Jones]

I used this guy on the fuel/vacuum assist pump for my 261.  He did a real good 
job.  That was 17 years ago and I've put a lot of ethanol through it.

Al Jones
'50 3100 w/ 261


From: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com [old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com] on 
behalf of Goulet, John A. [gou...@wpi.edu]
Sent: Saturday, December 29, 2012 5:52 AM
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [old-chevy-truck] Re : Fuel Pump

did you guys know you can get your old pump rebuilt?  These people do it:

http://arthurgouldrebuilders.com/

The prices are good and the turnaround fast.  Also warrantied.  Pure American 
materials and labor.  The web page allows them to send you a quote in advance.

 John

From: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com [old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com] on 
behalf of Ken Wagner [whetstone.retr...@yahoo.com]
Sent: Saturday, December 29, 2012 6:20 AM
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [old-chevy-truck] Re : Fuel Pump



Lon, my 235 is from a 1959. I ordered mine from NAPA, but I took my old one 
with me to campare to the pictures in the catalogue. I am not sure this pump is 
problematic, but I always make sure the pump activator lever is positioned on 
the correct side of the cam lobe plus using gasket seal between pump and block. 
You shouldn't have any problems.
Ken


From: Lon Gowan mailto:long4vt%40yahoo.com>>
To: "old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com" 
mailto:old-chevy-truck%40yahoogroups.com>>
Sent: Friday, December 28, 2012 4:37 PM
Subject: Re: [old-chevy-truck] Re : Fuel Pump



My truck has a 235 (from 1960 I believe).
I need a fuel pump.  Before I go and buy it . . .
Is there a difference in pumps? (Is the guy going to look it up in the book and 
bring me the wrong one?)
Does anyone know the part #?
Is there any special trick to putting it in that I should know before I start?
If i find one, does Nate want to come over and coach me through it? Because it 
is never as simple as it seems.
Lon

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]







Ole Chevy and GMC trucks rule!

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RE: [old-chevy-truck] Re: Re : was pump & Heating - now Hot starting

[Allen Jones]

I would do some more diagnosis before even considering something internal.  A 
dragging starter?  Did you check all your high amperage connections to make 
sure?  Did you check the wires for corrosion (resistance).  Check the ground to 
make sure there is no rust/paint/etc. at the engine end.  After that, did you 
take the starter apart and check the armature to see if it's near its end?  
Partial short in the coils?  Solenoid (if equipped)?  All the diagnosis for a 
dragging starter is in the Chevrolet shop manual.  A slow turning engine when 
only hot sure sounds like a starter problem.  This is a common problem on V-8s 
when the heat shield is deleted and the solenoid gets too hot.  In your case, 
if there is a part in the starter that is "iffy", when it heats up, it exhibits 
problems.  Two other things can cause a starter to drag.  Worn bearings 
(bushings) in the starter and too much ignition advance.  That latter is 
inconsistent starter speed.  And yes, a tight engine can cause a starter to 
drag, but unlikely if this engine has miles on it.



Good luck.



Al Jones

'50 3100


From: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com [old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com] on 
behalf of Lon Gowan [long...@yahoo.com]
Sent: Wednesday, January 02, 2013 8:43 PM
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [old-chevy-truck] Re: Re : was pump & Heating - now Hot starting



It's not newly rebuilt.  It has maybe 500 miles on it in the last 20 years, 
before that I don't know.
How do I check if it is a Ring or bearing clearance issue?  How do i check the 
Bore sizing?



From: "wbn...@sbcglobal.net" 
mailto:inline_6%40sbcglobal.net>>
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, January 2, 2013 6:28 AM
Subject: [old-chevy-truck] Re: Re : 235 Fuel Pump, Now Heating



Sounds like engine is tight. Is this engine newly rebuilt? How many miles on 
it? Is it bored oversize? Rings or bearings may not have been correct clearance 
if bored or crank turned.

Hope everyone has a great 2013 truckin'..

Just my Thoughts,
Walt

--- In mailto:old-chevy-truck%40yahoogroups.com, Lon Gowan  wrote:
>
> Bill, good stuff!  Thanks again!
> It has a key start, no foot pedal.
> It takes a long time to get it to start.  Yesterday I turned the fan by hand 
> to try to the starter.  My thinking was it had "a bad spot in it".  That came 
> from somewhere deep in memory and could have been nonsence to do.
> It did start though.
> The starter turns very slow when hot or I should say that's what it sounds 
> like.  I will test it this weekend and watch.  I am reasonably sure that it 
> is not turning when Hot at the same speed when cold.
> When I first got the truck the battery cables and Negative pole were the 
> first thing Nate checked when he came over.  I will make sure they are clean, 
> tight, and making good contact.
>
>
>
> 
> From: "Hanlon, Bill" 
> To: "mailto:old-chevy-truck%40yahoogroups.com"; 
> 
> Sent: Tuesday, January 1, 2013 4:41 PM
> Subject: RE: [old-chevy-truck] Re : 235 Fuel Pump, Now Heating
>
>
>
>
> I assume your ’50 still has a “stomp starter”.
>
> First you need to define “a bear to start”.
>
> When hot and trying to start, does the starter turn the engine over very 
> slowly?
> Does the starter turn the engine over at a “normal” rate, but the engine just 
> doesn’t start?
>
> You do have decent sized battery cables ( 00 gauge, both of them ) and the 
> negative cable is attached to the engine block, preferably at one of the 
> starter mounting bolts, I assume.
>
> From: mailto:old-chevy-truck%40yahoogroups.com 
> [mailto:mailto:old-chevy-truck%40yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Lon Gowan
> Sent: Tuesday, January 01, 2013 4:43 PM
> To: mailto:old-chevy-truck%40yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Re: [old-chevy-truck] Re : 235 Fuel Pump, Now Heating
>
>
>
> So, I added fluid to the radiator (It was very low). Stared the truck. let 
> the fluid flow and added as needed. I let it run for a 40 minutes and no 
> problem. Temp gauge would rise a little and then drop. I think I'm okay with 
> all that, but will flush the whole system this weekend just in case.
>
> Now, here is the next issue. When I run the truck for a while and it if good 
> a warmed up, I'll stop for a few minutes and when get back in, the truck is a 
> bear to start.
>
> So, what causes hard starting when truck is warm/hot?
>
> Having a blast working on it! Thanks for everyone help!
>
> Lon
> 1950 3100
> 235 6 Volt
>
>
> 
> From: "mailto:corvallis%40peoplepc.com" 
> >
> To: 
> mailto:old-chevy-truck%40yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Tuesday, January 1, 2013 4:25 AM
> Subject: RE: [old-chevy-truck] Re : 

RE: [old-chevy-truck] Coils - Argghhh

[Allen Jones]

Just use a stock coil from your FLAPS.  The one from En-Ah-Pe-Ah is Echlin P/N 
IP7.  $46 list, $25 wholesale.  Their "value line" (Mileage Plus) coil is IC7SB 
($26, $13).  Or use it to cross to whatever.  The coil mounting bracket is 
ICB15.



Good luck.



Allen

'50 3100


From: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com [old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com] on 
behalf of Roy [rmark...@cox.net]
Sent: Thursday, April 04, 2013 8:23 AM
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com; old_chevroletgmctru...@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [old-chevy-truck] Coils - Argghhh



I switched my electrical system back to 6 volts and so bought a new 6 volt coil 
from one of the vendors. It seems OK but not sure so I began looking for a 
better one. As I started looking I discovered that I can't find 6 volt coils 
but I can find 1.5 or 3.0 ohm coils. ?? So, I Googled everything I could and 
never got a clear understanding of which I needed so I measured the coil I got 
from the vendor and it is 1.5 ohm so I ordered a 40K Flame Thrower 1.5 ohm. On 
the box it says "suitable for 8 cylinder engines. Use 3.0 ohm coil for 6 or 4 
cylinder engines except for racing." Can anyone sort this out for me? I am 
running 6 volts on a 216 6 cylinder engine.

Thanks,
Roy

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





Ole Chevy and GMC trucks rule!

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RE: [old-chevy-truck] manifold heating

[Allen Jones]

Luke,



Your message is a little confusing in that there's no such thing as an 
"original header".  Do you mean the original cast exhaust manifold?  If that's 
the case, there was a bimetal spring that regulated the valve (and hence heat) 
in-between the two manifolds to control fuel condensation in the stock intake 
manifold.



I run exhaust heat from *one* of the Fenton's to the bottom of my dual intake 
Offenhauser.  I found that one big copper tube from one of the Fenton's was 
perfect for my setup.  A lot of folks say a "no flow" exhaust setup won't work 
but it works for me.  You don't mention what you are running on the intake 
side.  Stock or modified?  The dual carbs I run don't need as much heat given 
they are running less than 100% across each carb.  They are something about 60 
to 70%.  If you are running a single, you may need a tube from both Fenton's to 
give it a bit more heat.  I've found the best way is to just try it and see if 
it works.  Your idea of two small copper tubes sounds good.  You can run it and 
if you see fuel ponding below the butterfly, you need more heat.  I started 
with a smaller tube and worked my way up.  I ended up with a 5/8" copper tube - 
a bit of a bear to bend.  I had to make a custom plate to bolt up to the bottom 
of the Offenhauser and tapped out the NPT port on the Fenton to the next size.  
You can also run different size tubes from the Fentons and in my mind, that 
would induce flow across the manifold.



Let us know what you did with your exhaust.  I put mine through straight glass 
packs with spiraled louvers and shot gunned it out the drivers side.  It does 
sound good and looks good too.



Good luck and let us know what works out for you.

Al Jones

'50 3100 w/ 261 w/ Fentons w/ dual carbs




From: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com [old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com] on 
behalf of Luke Zsiga [50ch...@gmail.com]
Sent: Sunday, April 14, 2013 10:05 PM
To: old-chevy-truck
Subject: [old-chevy-truck] manifold heating



Hi guys,

has any one here used exhaust heat from dual fenton headers to heat
their intake on a 235? I've read that coolant is better as it is more
consistent but it is slower. My concern with exhaust heat is that I no
longer have that butterfly valve thing to regulate the exhaust that
was on the original header.

What was that valve thing on the original headers for?
will the intake get too hot if I route two small copper tubes of
exhaust under it?

Thanks for all your help,
Luke




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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RE: [old-chevy-truck] Desert cooler radiator or recore?

[Allen Jones]

I recored my original radiator so I could keep the stock tanks.  If your 
radiator shop knows what they are doing, they can inspect the tanks and advise 
you.  I had a four row installed and it cools super.  No problems since it was 
done in the mid 90s.  The cost (back then) was comparable to a new radiator.



Al Jones

'50 3100


From: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com [old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com] on 
behalf of luke zsiga [50ch...@gmail.com]
Sent: Monday, April 15, 2013 12:15 PM
To: old-chevy-truck
Subject: [old-chevy-truck] Desert cooler radiator or recore?



Hi guys my radiator is leaking and it is the original 63 year old radiator.
I also have trouble when driving on the highway it will get up to 200
degrees before I slow down and let it cool off.

I am considering either buying a new radiator or recoreing the original. My
problem with recoreing the original is that I'm concerned there will be
spots in the metal where it has corroded the metal thin and is about to
spring another leak right after it gets recored.

What are your guys thoughts on a recore vs new (non aluminum) radiator?
Also will the desert cooler radiator from classic parts fit a 235 in a 50
chevy with a short shaft water pump?

Thanks,
Luke

--
Luke Z
'50 Chevy 1/2ton
3100 stepside
235 4 on the floor

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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RE: [old-chevy-truck] manifold heating

[Allen Jones]

Luke,



That's exactly what I did.  Have a helper turn off the engine for you and be 
spry about looking down the carb throat.  You'd be surprised how fast a winter 
gas blend will evap off a warm manifold.  I also suggest you google this issue 
(both search in this forum and on the stovebolt website) - you can also tell if 
you're having a problem from drivability issues.  Most of the discussions 
however are regarding multiple carbs and heat.  You also need to make sure you 
don't have a leaky needle and seat.  A drippy bowl will have you chasing ghosts.



Great looking truck.  I have to poke you bit... only one pic!?!?!  Post more 
please.  The exhaust does look good.  How about a pic of the engine?  Also, 
where was the pic taken?  It looks nice.



Good luck.



Al Jones

'50 3100




From: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com [old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com] on 
behalf of luke zsiga [50ch...@gmail.com]
Sent: Tuesday, April 16, 2013 10:02 PM
To: old-chevy-truck
Subject: Re: [old-chevy-truck] manifold heating



Thanks for the info Allen,

I'll try the two tubes running to the intake. How were you able to look
inside the manifold to see if the fuel was puddling? I'm guessing you
turned the engine off turned the throttle and shined a light down?

I routed my dual exhaust through 2 flowmaster 40 series out both sides of
the truck near the end of the running boards. I used those rectangular
camaro exhaust tips, it looks pretty neat under the running boards. heres a
picture of it
https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/sredir?uname=118055119004871558672&target=ALBUM&id=5867644479319753489&authkey=Gv1sRgCMPfsL-euKrsOQ&feat=email

thanks again,
Luke

On Mon, Apr 15, 2013 at 12:18 PM, Allen Jones 
mailto:jonesal%40myuw.net>> wrote:

> Luke,
>
>
>
> Your message is a little confusing in that there's no such thing as an
> "original header". Do you mean the original cast exhaust manifold? If
> that's the case, there was a bimetal spring that regulated the valve (and
> hence heat) in-between the two manifolds to control fuel condensation in
> the stock intake manifold.
>
>
>
> I run exhaust heat from *one* of the Fenton's to the bottom of my dual
> intake Offenhauser. I found that one big copper tube from one of the
> Fenton's was perfect for my setup. A lot of folks say a "no flow" exhaust
> setup won't work but it works for me. You don't mention what you are
> running on the intake side. Stock or modified? The dual carbs I run don't
> need as much heat given they are running less than 100% across each carb.
> They are something about 60 to 70%. If you are running a single, you may
> need a tube from both Fenton's to give it a bit more heat. I've found the
> best way is to just try it and see if it works. Your idea of two small
> copper tubes sounds good. You can run it and if you see fuel ponding below
> the butterfly, you need more heat. I started with a smaller tube and
> worked my way up. I ended up with a 5/8" copper tube - a bit of a bear to
> bend. I had to make a custom plate to bolt up to the bottom of the
> Offenhauser and tapped out the NPT port on the Fenton to the next size.
> You can also run different size tubes from the Fentons and in my mind,
> that would induce flow across the manifold.
>
>
>
> Let us know what you did with your exhaust. I put mine through straight
> glass packs with spiraled louvers and shot gunned it out the drivers side.
> It does sound good and looks good too.
>
>
>
> Good luck and let us know what works out for you.
>
> Al Jones
>
> '50 3100 w/ 261 w/ Fentons w/ dual carbs
>
>
>
> 
> From: 
> old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com<mailto:old-chevy-truck%40yahoogroups.com> 
> [old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com<mailto:old-chevy-truck%40yahoogroups.com>]
> on behalf of Luke Zsiga [50ch...@gmail.com<mailto:50chevy%40gmail.com>]
> Sent: Sunday, April 14, 2013 10:05 PM
> To: old-chevy-truck
> Subject: [old-chevy-truck] manifold heating
>
>
>
> Hi guys,
>
> has any one here used exhaust heat from dual fenton headers to heat
> their intake on a 235? I've read that coolant is better as it is more
> consistent but it is slower. My concern with exhaust heat is that I no
> longer have that butterfly valve thing to regulate the exhaust that
> was on the original header.
>
> What was that valve thing on the original headers for?
> will the intake get too hot if I route two small copper tubes of
> exhaust under it?
>
> Thanks for all your help,
> Luke
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
> --

RE: [old-chevy-truck] Chevy steering wheel ?

[Allen Jones]

Steering column color (and steering wheel) is a DuPont 8540 (same as PPG) which 
is a grey brown ("sable" is the modern name), same as Mercedes 23254, I've also 
found a Jaguar code #812 to also work, Sikkens color map 416H1 or 411E1.

Every other painted surface in the cab is a metallic champagne, GMA 83:36 
(medium sand grey).  1947 to 1952 is PPG DDL 3613 and 1952 is PPG 33210, I 
believe Chevrolet formally called it a Medium Sand Grey Metallic, Sikkens color 
map 353F3.

If you need codes for the engine (grey) or stock exterior (green) I can email 
them to you.

Al Jones
'50 3100

From: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com [mailto:old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com] 
On Behalf Of fiftyone5win...@aol.com
Sent: Tuesday, April 23, 2013 4:50 PM
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [old-chevy-truck] Chevy steering wheel ?



In a message dated 4/23/2013 2:12:50 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
vge...@frontier.com writes:

When I restored my 50 3600 I took off the steering wheel, repaired the
cracks and repainted it. It looks like a brand new one for about $25. Vern

Hi Vern, thanks, that is what I am hoping to do. I am seeking the original
color of the steering wheel info. I am planning on spraying a 2 part epoxy
on the wheel once it is prepped.

thanks, Don
Fiftyone5window

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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RE: [old-chevy-truck] carb gasket

[Allen Jones]

Another good reason to use gaskets on both sides is the parts book calls for it 
... "INSULATOR, Gasket, use on both sides".  The Carburetor Bulletin (Form 
4958F) for 1937-1952 passenger cars and same trucks (but up 1953) also show a 
flange gasket (carb to insulator) and at the manifold.  The bulletin also has 
the tune up specs if you want them.

I've never seen an automotive application that did not have a gasket at the 
carburetor...  interesting.

Al Jones
'50 3100

From: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com [mailto:old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com] 
On Behalf Of Roy
Sent: Sunday, May 19, 2013 6:23 AM
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [old-chevy-truck] carb gasket



You will get all kinds of opinions but here is my experience with my 216. 
Spacer and manifold should be both dead flat so shouldn't need gasket and I 
suppose one could get them both that way with some effort. I tried and always 
had some small amount of leakage. Looked all over the internet to get it 
"right". Happened to look at LMC's catalog and see that they have both top and 
bottom gaskets. Gave it a try and no leaks. Works good, no issues AND using the 
two gaskets makes it MUCH easier to get the inboard nut on the manifold stud. 
My conclusion is there is no reason not to use both and I have found two 
reasons why its a good thing.

Roy
'51 3600
The Sleepy Dragon

- Original Message -
From: Robert
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, May 18, 2013 5:46 PM
Subject: [old-chevy-truck] carb gasket

Gettin ready to put my carb back on the 216 and wasn't sure if i am suppose to 
put a gasket between the intake an space for carb. I know their should be one 
between carb and space. Can anyone tell me?

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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RE: [old-chevy-truck] Tire Pressure

[Allen Jones]

I use the chalk method.  Draw a heavy line across the tread and run the car 
around.  If the center of the line wears off, the tire is too full.  If the 
edges wear off, it's too empty, and if it wears evenly, it's juuust right.



Al Jones

'50 3100 using the chalk method.  I run about 46 psi in 16s...


From: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com [old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com] on 
behalf of Bruce Ioppini [dalian...@yahoo.com]
Sent: Friday, May 24, 2013 2:58 PM
To: To: "old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com"
Subject: [old-chevy-truck] Tire Pressure



Would someone please tell me the correct tire pressure for  215/70-R16 tire 
installed on a 38 car?   Thanks..

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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RE: [old-chevy-truck] Vintage License plates

[Allen Jones]

I believe two small bolts and two corresponding nuts on each plate followed by 
a wrench would work well!  :)  It's Friday!

Al Jones
'50 3100

From: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com [mailto:old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com] 
On Behalf Of fiftyone5win...@aol.com
Sent: Friday, July 12, 2013 1:52 PM
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [old-chevy-truck] Vintage License plates



Hi, I located a set of '51 Calif. plates for my truck, apparently they are
still registered to a vehicle which was exported. What is the easiest
procedure to get them onto my truck ?

thanks, Don
Fiftyone5window

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



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RE: [old-chevy-truck] Re : Ignition Timing & Brake Cylinders

[Allen Jones]

My FLAPS still carries new ones.  If yours carries actual Wagners, then I'd 
definitely buy those - Wagner is usually high quality.

Al Jones
'50 3100

From: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com [mailto:old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com] 
On Behalf Of Nate
Sent: Friday, July 12, 2013 12:53 PM
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [old-chevy-truck] Re : Ignition Timing & Brake Cylinders



Not sure why you don't just buy brandy new Wagner cylinders ? they're cheap and 
available .

last time I tried re sleeving , it was in brass and *very* expen$ive .

Works great though .

-Nate
James wrote :
>
> Ole red turned over just as nice as you please with the 12 volt system.  I 
> checked the coil with a lighe for fire, separated the points and saw a spark, 
> changed the spark plug wires and I don't see how things could be any better 
> on the ignition side.  She spun and spun but never even tried to fire.
>
> But I did get the brake drum off and contacted a place in CA about a 
> stainless steel sleeve estimate.  I have the rest of the wheel cylinder parts 
> sitting in carb cleaner for tonight, for the cleaning up routine.
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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RE: [old-chevy-truck] Re : Bendix Brake bleeder valves

[Allen Jones]

It depends.  They are sourcing more and more parts off shore.  Front right and 
left are UP 14493 and 14494, respectively, rear are 14497.  Lucky you, they 
pretty much stock everything for your brakes and seem to be reasonably priced 
(list).  I need to switch my hucks over to bendix one of these days…

Al Jones
’50 3100

From: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com [mailto:old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com] 
On Behalf Of Robert Westmoreland
Sent: Tuesday, July 30, 2013 9:06 PM
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [old-chevy-truck] Re : Bendix Brake bleeder valves



Thanks Nate,
 I disassembled one today and it had some pitting in the cylinder so i think 
i'm just gonna take my kits back to NAPA and get new cylinders there. Most of 
there parts are pretty good, don't you think?


From: Nate mailto:vwnate1%40yahoo.com>>
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, July 30, 2013 6:04 PM
Subject: [old-chevy-truck] Re : Bendix Brake bleeder valves




There's only one hydraulic cylinder per wheel , each one has it's own bleeder 
valve .

Id they're broken off , I'd scrap the cylinder , brandy new top quaLITYbENDIX 
OR wAGNER ONES ARE AVAILABLE FROM rOCKaUTO (damn caps lock) , NAPA and other 
fine FLAPS , some partshaus' sell crappy off brand cylinders you don't want as 
they're dangerous .

Once in a blue moon you can use an " Easy - Out " to remove the broken off 
bleeder screw but that's rare ~ most of the time the Easy-Out snaps off too .

If the cylinders are not leaking , you can hold them in place and use some 
.002" shim stock *gently* worked in past the rubber cups , bleed *very* gently 
else you'll blow the cups out of the cylinders while you have the drums off .

-Nate
Robert wrote :
>
> No, this is on a 1/2 ton 3100.
>
>
> 
> From: "corvallis@..." 
> mailto:corvallis@...>>
> To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Sunday, July 28, 2013 4:54 PM
> Subject: RE: [old-chevy-truck] adding brake bleeder valves
>
>
>
> Â
> Is this a 2-ton? Each wheel cylinder should have a bleeder. If you don't see
> one, they've been broken off. They rust in and won't turn. Bill in Oregon
>
> _
>
> From: 
> old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com]
>  On Behalf Of Robert
> Sent: Sunday, July 28, 2013 12:04 PM
> To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [old-chevy-truck] adding brake bleeder valves
>
> Hi Yaull,
> Is there a way to add bleeder valve to each wheel cylinder on old 51 Chevy
> truck. I see a screw head at back of drums but no bleeder valves.
> Thanks Robert
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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RE: [old-chevy-truck] WOO-HOO !

[Allen Jones]

How did you squeeze 350 ci out of that inline...  :)

Al Jones

From: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com [mailto:old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com] 
On Behalf Of Nate
Sent: Saturday, August 24, 2013 8:52 PM
To: Replies Old-Chevy-Truck; RepliesRoberts Trucklist
Subject: [old-chevy-truck] WOO-HOO !



I've been increasingly frustrated with the oil fouling of the spark plugs in my 
'69 C/10's 350 I6 engine , it began missing on the freeway the other day so in 
the 100° F heat I drove it home , popped the hood and scalded my fingers pretty 
good as I bumped the ignition timing up from the book's TDC to 6° BTDC and it 
*instantly* began running better and the spark plugs self - cleaned in less 
than one mile of driving ~ I didn't have to remove & scrape them off .

It now starts easier hot or cold and has noticeably better acceleration too ~

I need  to remember my Chevy / Delco training more often as they pushed 
adjusting each engine according to it's condition , use and need over the book 
specs .

I'm still looking for a 292 that someone actually wants to sell , most folks 
who have them get weird when I say " I have ca$h & a truck ,  when can I pick 
it up ? " .

-Nate

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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RE: [old-chevy-truck] Re: 3600 Torque Tube Leak

[Allen Jones]

Steve,



The okie bushing does have an integral seal in it so it will stop leaks.  But 
realize it only stops the transmission oil from draining back into the rear 
end.  If the trans oil is leaking out of the ball shaft onto the ground, that's 
a cork seal in the retaining ring.  That's an easy fix - see the factory repair 
manual.



Yes, you should have at least 90 weight in your transmission as well as soil 
compatible with bronze parts.  I use 90-140 as it helps minimize Class 1 or 2 
leaks (given the light tolerances used back when it was made).  If you're 
running engine oil in it, consider it a bonus if it was detergent oil.  It 
helped to clean it out - so you now drain it and put the proper oil in it.  
Most old manuals state that to flush the trans, add solvent and run down the 
road (effectively diluting the oil), drain, and fill.  Works great on tractors 
too.



Good luck,

Al Jones




From: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com [old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com] on 
behalf of Green, Steven D. [sgr...@ku.edu]
Sent: Wednesday, August 28, 2013 11:24 AM
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [old-chevy-truck] Re: 3600 Torque Tube Leak



After many years, I finally got my 1952 3600 on the road. I've driven it about 
25 miles. Noticed a big leak at the rear of the torque tube section where it 
changes into a regular drive shaft. Does this require a new OKIE bushing or is 
there a seal? I did not do any work on this section during reassembly other 
than clean and paint .

I had the trans filled at Jiffy. The fluid in the trans. is real light weight 
not the 90W lube I recall being used in these. Do I need heavier lube and an 
OKIE bushing?

Any advice appreciated.

Thanks,
Steve

1952 3600
1953 3100

From: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com 
[mailto:old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com]
 On Behalf Of Nate
Sent: Friday, August 23, 2013 3:51 PM
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [old-chevy-truck] Re: Broke Starter

Luke ;

1st. : CONGRATS ! . Fatherhood is demanding but also very rewarding .

I see you've purchased a new Bendix , be aware there are different ones , 
_COUNT_THE_TEETH_ before you try it , as the tooth count is CRITICAL and won't 
work if they're not the same .

My foggy ' brain ' tells me there's either 7 or 9 teeth on the Bendix depending 
on 6 or 12 volts .

FWIW : the Bendix (Starter Drive) for a 6 volt solenoid operated Chevy starter 
application is : 1949 Chevrolet Sedan with automatic .

I saw my old NAPA Echlin catalog last night and will cheerfully look it up for 
you if the one you ordered doesn't work . let me know .

-Nate
Luke wrote :
>
> Hey guys,
>
> My trucks starters gear broke and now were down to only one car and my wife
> is less than a month away from giving birth :0 I've got to get this fixed
> ASAP. I took it to a starter repair shop today and they said they couldn't
> fix it, my best bet is to buy a new one.
>
> I have a 50 3100 with a 235 in it (delco remmy starter 1107075 that has
> been converted to 12v and solenoid). I assume the previous owner who
> swapped for the 235 kept the 216 flywheel and starter. It has also been
> upgraded to 12v and solenoid drive. Where is the fastest place I can buy a
> starter that will work? Will any starter for a 235 fit a 216 flywheel? I
> see that classic parts sells the same starter I have now (47-54) but its 6
> volt and not driven by a solenoid. Would their 55-59 12v starter bolt up if
> I add a solenoid?
>
> Any advice?
>
> Thanks for all the help you guys have given me the last couple years,
>
> Luke
>
>
>
>

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





Ole Chevy and GMC trucks rule!

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RE: [old-chevy-truck] Re: 3600 Torque Tube Leak

[Allen Jones]

Just Google Okie Bushing.  Lots of instructions in the first 10 hits.




From: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com [old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com] on 
behalf of Bruce Ioppini [dalian...@yahoo.com]
Sent: Thursday, August 29, 2013 12:14 PM
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [old-chevy-truck] Re: 3600 Torque Tube Leak



Hi Al Jones and anyone else who can help.:I have a new Okie bushing for my 
38 Chev.  Do you have step-by-step instructions on how to install it??   
Thanks,   Bruce


From: Allen Jones mailto:jonesal%40myuw.net>>
To: "old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com<mailto:old-chevy-truck%40yahoogroups.com>" 
mailto:old-chevy-truck%40yahoogroups.com>>
Sent: Wednesday, August 28, 2013 2:16 PM
Subject: RE: [old-chevy-truck] Re: 3600 Torque Tube Leak


Steve,

The okie bushing does have an integral seal in it so it will stop leaks.  But 
realize it only stops the transmission oil from draining back into the rear 
end.  If the trans oil is leaking out of the ball shaft onto the ground, that's 
a cork seal in the retaining ring.  That's an easy fix - see the factory repair 
manual.

Yes, you should have at least 90 weight in your transmission as well as soil 
compatible with bronze parts.  I use 90-140 as it helps minimize Class 1 or 2 
leaks (given the light tolerances used back when it was made).  If you're 
running engine oil in it, consider it a bonus if it was detergent oil.  It 
helped to clean it out - so you now drain it and put the proper oil in it.  
Most old manuals state that to flush the trans, add solvent and run down the 
road (effectively diluting the oil), drain, and fill.  Works great on tractors 
too.

Good luck,

Al Jones


From: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com<mailto:old-chevy-truck%40yahoogroups.com> 
[old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com<mailto:old-chevy-truck%40yahoogroups.com>] on 
behalf of Green, Steven D. [sgr...@ku.edu<mailto:sgreen%40ku.edu>]
Sent: Wednesday, August 28, 2013 11:24 AM
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com<mailto:old-chevy-truck%40yahoogroups.com>
Subject: RE: [old-chevy-truck] Re: 3600 Torque Tube Leak

After many years, I finally got my 1952 3600 on the road. I've driven it about 
25 miles. Noticed a big leak at the rear of the torque tube section where it 
changes into a regular drive shaft. Does this require a new OKIE bushing or is 
there a seal? I did not do any work on this section during reassembly other 
than clean and paint .

I had the trans filled at Jiffy. The fluid in the trans. is real light weight 
not the 90W lube I recall being used in these. Do I need heavier lube and an 
OKIE bushing?

Any advice appreciated.

Thanks,
Steve

1952 3600
1953 3100

From: 
old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com<mailto:old-chevy-truck%40yahoogroups.com><mailto:old-chevy-truck%40yahoogroups.com>
 
[mailto:old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com<mailto:old-chevy-truck%40yahoogroups.com><mailto:old-chevy-truck%40yahoogroups.com>]
 On Behalf Of Nate
Sent: Friday, August 23, 2013 3:51 PM
To: 
old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com<mailto:old-chevy-truck%40yahoogroups.com><mailto:old-chevy-truck%40yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [old-chevy-truck] Re: Broke Starter

Luke ;

1st. : CONGRATS ! . Fatherhood is demanding but also very rewarding .

I see you've purchased a new Bendix , be aware there are different ones , 
_COUNT_THE_TEETH_ before you try it , as the tooth count is CRITICAL and won't 
work if they're not the same .

My foggy ' brain ' tells me there's either 7 or 9 teeth on the Bendix depending 
on 6 or 12 volts .

FWIW : the Bendix (Starter Drive) for a 6 volt solenoid operated Chevy starter 
application is : 1949 Chevrolet Sedan with automatic .

I saw my old NAPA Echlin catalog last night and will cheerfully look it up for 
you if the one you ordered doesn't work . let me know .

-Nate
Luke wrote :
>
> Hey guys,
>
> My trucks starters gear broke and now were down to only one car and my wife
> is less than a month away from giving birth :0 I've got to get this fixed
> ASAP. I took it to a starter repair shop today and they said they couldn't
> fix it, my best bet is to buy a new one.
>
> I have a 50 3100 with a 235 in it (delco remmy starter 1107075 that has
> been converted to 12v and solenoid). I assume the previous owner who
> swapped for the 235 kept the 216 flywheel and starter. It has also been
> upgraded to 12v and solenoid drive. Where is the fastest place I can buy a
> starter that will work? Will any starter for a 235 fit a 216 flywheel? I
> see that classic parts sells the same starter I have now (47-54) but its 6
> volt and not driven by a solenoid. Would their 55-59 12v starter bolt up if
> I add a solenoid?
>
> Any advice?
>
> Thanks for all the help you guys hav

RE: [old-chevy-truck] oiling

[Allen Jones]

I would say a goodly amount.  Is this the first time you have noticed?  One 
time I saw where half of the rockers had lots of oil and the other half didn’t. 
 Someone installed one of the rocker shafts upside down.  Rotated it correctly 
and all had plenty of oil…

Al Jones
’50 3100

From: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com [mailto:old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com] 
On Behalf Of rl_westmorel...@yahoo.com
Sent: Sunday, September 22, 2013 2:13 PM
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [old-chevy-truck] oiling



Hi All,
Should there be a lot or little oil coming in the top of the engine around the 
lifters. I have removed the valve cover gasket and can lift the valve cover off 
after i shut the engine off after running for a few minutes and not much oil is 
present. Is this normal or should there be a good bit coming up inside valve 
cover and then draining back down thru the holes?

Thanks, Robert

RE: [old-chevy-truck] RE: oiling

[Allen Jones]

Shouldn’t be coming out of the hose – this hose is what feeds the rocker rail – 
and the rocker rail feeds the rockers.  Is yours cracked or broken?  If so, 
time to replace it.  Also, what Bill in Oregon said.

AL Jones
’50 3100

From: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com [mailto:old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com] 
On Behalf Of rl_westmorel...@yahoo.com
Sent: Thursday, September 26, 2013 5:49 AM
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [old-chevy-truck] RE: oiling



 Thanks for all the replies. I took off the valve cover and noticed while 
running that oil is coming out of what looks like a hose in about the middle in 
a pretty good stream. I assume this is where it should be coming from and all 
is good. Any responses to this is appreciated.



Took my gas tank out and put some pieces of chain in it and shook it around, 
over all looks pretty good.



Anyone ever put fuel filter in line between gas tank and fuel pump? In pictures 
that i find on the internet all seem to show up next to carb.



Robert


---In old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com, 
mailto:jonesal@...>> wrote:

I would say a goodly amount.  Is this the first time you have noticed?  One 
time I saw where half of the rockers had lots of oil and the other half didn’t. 
 Someone installed one of the rocker shafts upside down.  Rotated it correctly 
and all had plenty of oil…



Al Jones

’50 3100



From: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com 
[mailto:old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of rl_westmoreland@...
Sent: Sunday, September 22, 2013 2:13 PM
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [old-chevy-truck] oiling





Hi All,
Should there be a lot or little oil coming in the top of the engine around the 
lifters. I have removed the valve cover gasket and can lift the valve cover off 
after i shut the engine off after running for a few minutes and not much oil is 
present. Is this normal or should there be a good bit coming up inside valve 
cover and then draining back down thru the holes?

Thanks, Robert

RE: RE: [old-chevy-truck] RE: oiling

[Allen Jones]

It's really a steel pipe, correct?  Put your hands and eyes on it - you will 
know.



Al Jones

'50 3100




From: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com [old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com] on 
behalf of rl_westmorel...@yahoo.com [rl_westmorel...@yahoo.com]
Sent: Thursday, September 26, 2013 8:17 AM
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: RE: [old-chevy-truck] RE: oiling





Anyone have any pictures of the hose so i can tell if it is broken off or 
cracked?

---In old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com,  wrote:


Shouldn’t be coming out of the hose – this hose is what feeds the rocker rail – 
and the rocker rail feeds the rockers.  Is yours cracked or broken?  If so, 
time to replace it.  Also, what Bill in Oregon said.



AL Jones

’50 3100



From: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com [mailto:old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com] 
On Behalf Of rl_westmoreland@...
Sent: Thursday, September 26, 2013 5:49 AM
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [old-chevy-truck] RE: oiling



 Thanks for all the replies. I took off the valve cover and noticed while 
running that oil is coming out of what looks like a hose in about the middle in 
a pretty good stream. I assume this is where it should be coming from and all 
is good. Any responses to this is appreciated.



Took my gas tank out and put some pieces of chain in it and shook it around, 
over all looks pretty good.



Anyone ever put fuel filter in line between gas tank and fuel pump? In pictures 
that i find on the internet all seem to show up next to carb.



Robert


---In old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com, 
mailto:jonesal@...>> wrote:

I would say a goodly amount.  Is this the first time you have noticed?  One 
time I saw where half of the rockers had lots of oil and the other half didn’t. 
 Someone installed one of the rocker shafts upside down.  Rotated it correctly 
and all had plenty of oil…



Al Jones

’50 3100



From: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com 
[mailto:old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of rl_westmoreland@...
Sent: Sunday, September 22, 2013 2:13 PM
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [old-chevy-truck] oiling



Hi All,
Should there be a lot or little oil coming in the top of the engine around the 
lifters. I have removed the valve cover gasket and can lift the valve cover off 
after i shut the engine off after running for a few minutes and not much oil is 
present. Is this normal or should there be a good bit coming up inside valve 
cover and then draining back down thru the holes?

Thanks, Robert

RE: [old-chevy-truck] RE : Fuel Needs

[Allen Jones]

I don’t think they sell straight gas at the pump anymore… anywhere.  I buy bulk 
straight gas (300 gals at a time) and it actually costs more than your 10% 
ethanol.

Al Jones

From: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com [mailto:old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com] 
On Behalf Of nathan.h...@lacity.org
Sent: Tuesday, October 08, 2013 5:17 PM
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [old-chevy-truck] RE : Fuel Needs



 Use regular as the I6 engines are very low compression and prefer low octane 
fuels .



I don't live where ethanol free Motor Fuels are sold but I'd never use ethanol 
if I didn't have to .



YMMV Etc.



-Nate


---In old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com, 
mailto:old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com>> wrote:
1.) I still have my original 216 motor in my 1949 3600. Is it better for gas 
mileage and general wear and tear to use Non-ethanol gas? If so should I use 
the premium or regular stuff.


Thanks guys.

RE: [old-chevy-truck] RE : Fuel Needs

[Allen Jones]

That site is not very accurate.  I live in one of the towns that's listed and 
the station listed doesn't sell ethanol free gas.  I thought the blend was a 
federal mandate - guess I was wrong.

Al Jones

From: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com [mailto:old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com] 
On Behalf Of corval...@peoplepc.com
Sent: Tuesday, October 08, 2013 5:59 PM
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [old-chevy-truck] RE : Fuel Needs


http://pure-gas.org/
list of stations that sell pure, ethanol-free gasoline in the U.S. and Canada.  
Bill in Oregon

From: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com 
[mailto:old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of 
nathan.h...@lacity.org
Sent: Tuesday, October 08, 2013 3:17 PM
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [old-chevy-truck] RE : Fuel Needs

Use regular as the I6 engines are very low compression and prefer low octane 
fuels .

I don't live where ethanol free Motor Fuels are sold but I'd never use ethanol 
if I didn't have to .

YMMV Etc.

-Nate
==

---In old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com, 
mailto:old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com>> wrote:
1.) I still have my original 216 motor in my 1949 3600. Is it better for gas 
mileage and general wear and tear to use Non-ethanol gas? If so should I use 
the premium or regular stuff.


Thanks guys.