[OGD] Vitamin B1
In OGD 183 Burt Pressman wrote: > I have always been puzzled by the inclusion of Thiamin as a major >ingredient of Superthrive, since this vitamin is easily manufactured >by most plant >tissue, which is one of the reasons we eat salads. This reminds me of a post by Joe Arditti a couple of years ago: It may be interesting to look back into the history of the use of vitamin B1 (Thiamine) in plants and orchids. Around 1937 a man who became a very well known plant physiologist was studying the effects of vitamins on the growth of plants. His technician reported great result and the plant physiologist published two papers. Soon after that the technician quit and started a business selling B1 preparations for plants and even published a small booklet which I have somewhere. The plant physiologist could not repeat the work and there were then questions if the technician faked results and was planning all along to start a business. I knew the plant physiologist fairly well (he died a few years ago) and asked him about it since B1 is used in orchid tissue culture. He told me that he does not want to talk about it. The first paper was published in 1937. The second in 1938 even reports on the effects of B1 on Cattleya. Hans Burgeff may have been the first to use B1 in orchid seedlings culture. Many others did it after that. According to many reports the results are mixed. B1 is used in some culture media for tissue culture and not in others. As far as I know no one has carried out controlled experiments and published definitive result. People keep adding B1 to media because it is in the recipe and it is cheap. No one has taken the time to really check if it is needed. I have my doubts. Joseph Arditti Of course Superthrive now contains many other ingredients, but I question whether it does any good. Another orchid myth? Martin Epstein ___ the OrchidGuide Digest (OGD) [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://lists.orchidguide.com/mailman/listinfo/orchids
[OGD] Roots, the Orchid kind, not geneology
In OGD 193, K Barrett asked: Myth or fact? Orchids will bloom once their roots fill the pot. I'd heard that one day and I wondered if it was true. It was said about paphs, but it may hold true for other orchids too. Would add creedence to using a pot just large enough to hold the remaining roots. And Mike responded: Myth - Paphs will bloom with only a few roots. In fact, Paphs are not known as aggressive root producers. That is why Paphs should be put in the smallest possible pot. They won't fill the pot before the media degrades and old media encourages root rot. Please see: http://www.ladyslipper.com/coco3.htm The healthier the orchid plant the better it blooms, and the better the root system, the healthier the plant. Marty Epstein ___ the OrchidGuide Digest (OGD) [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://lists.orchidguide.com/mailman/listinfo/orchids
[OGD] Slatted baskets liners
I have found that plastic gutter guard, used to keep leaves out of rain gutters, is an easy solution for keeping media in slatted baskets. I use it on the bottom only. It is cheap and available in rolls at most hardware stores in this area (the northeast) at least. martin ___ the OrchidGuide Digest (OGD) [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://lists.orchidguide.com/mailman/listinfo/orchids
[OGD] Ré:CO2
Note that many (most?) orchids are CAM plants and their stomata are closed during the day, open at night, so extra CO2 would best be added after dark. Martin ___ the OrchidGuide Digest (OGD) [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://lists.orchidguide.com/mailman/listinfo/orchids
[OGD] Scientific Method
In OGD #239, Bert said Nowadays we rely on the Scientific Method and place our faith on the analysis of experimental data. Wish it were so. Most people still think a scientific theory is an unproven idea. The there are those who think that if there is a one time single point correlation it's a proven fact. Others listen to cultural dicta without questioning them. Orchid growers are particularly guilty of. That is why we have so many cultural myths: * Chlorinated municipal water is bad for orchids; * Urea is not a good source of nitrogen; * Charcoal is poison for orchids (this one I heard last month from an Australian on a speaking tour); * Fertilize weakly weekly; * Methanol helps orchid growth. And many more. Although there may be a grain of truth in some of these, most of tham are nonsense. Martin ___ the OrchidGuide Digest (OGD) [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://lists.orchidguide.com/mailman/listinfo/orchids
Re: [OGD] SCientific Theory
I said > > >Wish it were so. Most people still think a scientific theory is an >>unproven idea. The there are those who think that if there is a one >>time single point correlation it's a proven fact. Others listen to >>cultural dicta without questioning them. > > And Guido replied > >And then, there are those who don't want to understand that a scientific >theory _by definition_ is an unproven idea. If it were proved, it would >not be a theory any more. > >May I please politely refer you to your English language dictionary. I >have the Longman "Dictionary of English language and culture" at hand: >page 1371: >"theory: a reasonable or scientifically acceptable explanation for a >fact or event, which has not been proved to be true" > I should have used the word untested rather than unproven. Oh, that word theory. >This word is employed by English writers in a very loose and >improper sense. It is with them usually convertible into hypothesis, >and hypothesis is commonly used as another term for conjecture. >Sir W Hamilton. In science the word theory means much more than an idea. >A theory is a scheme of the relations subsisting between the parts >of a systematic whole; an hypothesis is a tentative conjecture >respecting a cause of phenomena. Websters revised unabridged dictionary, 1996. When I started studying science (pre WWII) I was taught that one had an idea which one formulated as an hypothesis. This included defining ways to test the idea. If this confirmed the idea, and this test and others extrapolated from it continued to do so, and if the hypothesis then lead to other predictions which were similarly tested, then it became a theory and as so it embodied all the tested knowledge on the subject. It was not immutable, however, and was subject to modification to fit the 'facts'. If this continued to explain all the known phenomena on the subject it became a law. Thus we have the theory of relativity and the laws of thermodynamics and Newton's laws of motion...except that the theory of relativity has made it necessary to modify the laws. In common parlance the word theory is often taken to mean an untested conjecture. Thus we have those who question the theory of evolution because 'it is only a theory' (meaning it has not been tested). It was Bert's statement that >Nowadays we rely on the Scientific Method and place our faith >on the analysis of experimental data. that I was reacting to. Orhcidists, by and large, do not rely on scientific methods. Anybody who grows orchids can make an observation on orchid culture and generalize from it. Unless it is formulated as an hypothesis and is tested under controlled conditions the idea is suspect (though it may be true). Controlled experiments on orchid culture do exist but are the exception. I postulate that most of our cultural practices are suspect and many are myths. Fortunatly most orchids are very adaptable. Martin ___ the OrchidGuide Digest (OGD) [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://lists.orchidguide.com/mailman/listinfo/orchids
[OGD] Weakly weekly
K Barrett asks: >Martin, so what's your gripe with fertilizing weakly weekly? Orchids in the wild (at least those growing (epiphytically) really get pretty low levels of fertilizer, and most of their liquid refreshment from rain water. There are those that believe that emulating native conditions is the ideal, and orchids will grow and bloom in the home or in the greenhouse if these conditions are met, so weakly weekly is OK if you just want your plants to survive. But if you really want to get the most out of your orchid plants weakly weekly doesn't cut it. It's all about photosynthesis. The more food and light you give a plant (within limits, of course) the better they will grow, and the better they grow the better they will bloom. It starts with the water. Rain water has a low TDS level, so there is worry about burning the roots with too much TDS in the water. Then we add fertilizer; more TDS. Actually, most orchids can tolerate a surprising amount of TDS (not all are equal in this respect). Indeed, controlled experiments by Dr. Wang suggest an EC of 2000 as being the limit for Phalaenopsis. He finds a nitrogen level of 200 ppm applied at every watering is optimal for Phalaenopsis. But that is only one genus. I have grown a few thousand different orchid species in hundreds of genera and have come to the conclusion that for me 150 ppm of nitrogen (1,000 ppm of dissolved solids) applied at least twice a week works very well for me. Even my Pleurothallids grow well, though I believe they would do better if they I grew them cooler. Of course to make use of this 'food' the plants need light, the more the better if you don't burn the leaves and if they have a dark period to fix carbon dioxide (the CAM plants, that is). I have been growing under wide spectrum HID lamps for the last year (I moved to a condo and sold my house, greenhouse included) on 16 hours a day for nine months of the year. The lamps are generally somewhat closer to the plants than recommended. The lamps generate enough heat to keep my plant room warm even on the coldest days in Northern Massachusetts. To keep from burning the leaves I installed a LOT of air movement. No burnt leaves. How about water quality? I believe that when water poses problems it's usually not the TDS that causes them but something in the water. When I first started growing in Massachusetts in the late 1970's my water was low in sodium. Over the years the sodium level rose fairly dramatically and I began to see brown tips on my Draculas. I postulate that sodium is the bad actor, not the dissolved solids level, and when I moved to my condo I put in an RO system. I add 30 ppm of calcium to my water as calcium nitrate (ca 160 ppm TDS) to make up for what the RO system has removed for my daily watering (the high level of air movement makes the plants dry out more rapidly than they did when I had a greenhouse). And for my fertilizer I add 150 ppm of Peters 15-16-17 Peat Lite Special, which I supplement with 20 ppm of magnesium in the form of Epsom salts. If one is not careful to flush thoroughly when watering and/or fertilizing the fertilizer can build up and exceed what may be tolerated by the plants. See the excellent article by Fred Bergman in the May issue of Orchids. Weakly weekly is largely a product of Communal Reinforcement. From the Skeptoc's Dictionary (http://www.skepdic.com/comreinf.html) >Communal reinforcement is the process by which a claim becomes a >strong belief through repeated assertion by members of a >community. The process is independent of whether the claim has been >properly researched or is supported by empirical data significant >enough to warrant belief by reasonable people. Often, the mass media >contribute to the process by uncritically supporting the claims. >More often, however, the mass media provide tacit support for >untested and unsupported claims by saying nothing skeptical about >even the most outlandish of claims. A caveat: The above discussion is a simplification of a complex subject. Martin ___ the OrchidGuide Digest (OGD) [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://lists.orchidguide.com/mailman/listinfo/orchids
[OGD] BLC Banana Royale
Bob: It's available from Fordyce Orchids, 5 inch pot, $28: http://www.fordyceorchids.com/catalogue.htm Martin ___ the OrchidGuide Digest (OGD) [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://lists.orchidguide.com/mailman/listinfo/orchids
[OGD] Some thoughts on the AOS and Howard Bronstein
This posting is prompted by David Grow's comments ri dues increases in OGD 253, and by the several earlier postings regarding the AOS slate for their forthcoming election. I usually avoid political discussions like this but there are too many things about this that bother me. It's a little like having an irritating small stone in ones shoe. The AOS is invaluable, but is not without its shortcomings. The commitment to building a new headquarters facility, at least as it has been planned, seems to me to be a fixation not justified by the needs of the society. Clearly it is straining the society's resources. It is not uncommon for non-profit organizations to get in over their heads when they take on a project such as this, or when they try to establish a money making business to bail them out. There is too much wishful thinking and not enough common (business) sense. I wonder if this is the reason behind passing up Howard Bronstein for the presidential position. Howard seems to me to be level headed, and may have been too realistic and outspoken about the direction the AOS should take to be palatable to the 'in group'. In any case, whether it was intended or not, by passing him over they have cast a shadow on Mr. Bronstein that I believe he does not deserve. It is commonplace (but regrettable) for people to believe that there is some hidden defect or character lack when this happens. Mr. Bronstein's gentlemanly posting on this list clearly shows him to be a man of excellent character, but the suspicion has still been planted. What they have done is show me that it is time to move the AOS in a different direction. I don't know that this was Bronstein's intent, but on the chance that it was so I will not vote for the slate the AOS has put forward. Incicentally, I note that Jose has not responded to Mr. Ginsburg's question in OGD 248. At 5:29 PM -0400 6/16/04, Howard Ginsberg wrote: >Jose > > > >You said, "BTW I questioned Dr Griesbach and the 6 trustee candidates Mr >Bronstein is Backing. So far I only got answers from Dr Griesbach." > > > >I called two of the trustee candidates. They both have not heard of you nor >have spoken with nor received e-mail from you. > > > >When did you do this, Jose? Just the facts. Martin ___ the OrchidGuide Digest (OGD) [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://lists.orchidguide.com/mailman/listinfo/orchids
[OGD] Back to Orchids
In recent months this list has been criticized for spending too much space on discussions about CITES, conservation, politics, personalities and finger pointing, and I believe it has. In the spirit of getting back on topic (i.e., orchids) I would like to start a new thread. I believe that the defining characteristic, that is, what separates orchids from other flowering plants, is the union of the male and female sexual organs into a single entity, the column. There are other differences as well, including the ability of a wide range of species and genera to interbreed. I suspect that these differences are inter-related. The column structure is such that fertilization can only be accomplished in nature by a vector such as an insect or a bird. It is very difficult for a an insect to remove the pollinia on the way in. It is relatively easy for an insect to remove it on the way out. Cleistogamy aside, this makes self pollination difficult (except with a toothpick). I speculate that this makes cross pollination more common in orchids than in most other flowering plants leading to a broadening of the gene pool, rapid evolution and the fantastic diversity we see in orchids today. Comments, anyone Martin Epstein ___ the OrchidGuide Digest (OGD) [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://lists.orchidguide.com/mailman/listinfo/orchids
[OGD] Evolution and Speciation
Perhaps we should consider the combination of the column and the lip, that remarkable morphed petal which can act as an attractant, landing place, pollinator manipulator, and so on as a key to orchid speciation. The more specialized the flower becomes in its effort to attract a vector, the more at risk it may be if the relationship becomes too specialized and the vector disappears. Is the moth that pollinates Darwin's famous Angreacum still extant? Are there more than one moth that carry out this vital function? It seems to me that orchids (and other flowering plants) would do best if they used many insects as pollinators, insects that perhaps would shun other plants. How specialized have most orchids become? Do they rely on a single species of pollinator? Or do they rely on a whole genera (or group of related genera) of insects or other vector for survival? How about those remarkably convoluted species like Stanhopea and Coryanthes; did they evolve this way in conjunction with a single insect species? Do orchids that escape in the wild jungles of Hawaii ever find a substitute insect that does the job of their normal vector? Many years ago I saw a number of Phalaenopsis on tree branches in Asuncion, Paraguay, thoughtfully (or thoughtlessly) put there by members of a local orchid society. I vaguely remember a couple of seed pods on them. Did they originate with the ubiquitous toothpick, or did a confused insect do the job? And how about the vector. The flowers are not always there for the taking. Clearly they must philander around with other flowers when there are none of their favorite orchids in bloom. What other kinds of flowers do they favor? Then there is man and his toothpick (is this the universal tool for this purpose). He selects plants which please him (don't insects do the same thing?) and insures that they breed with who knows what. Is this evolution by unnatural selection? More thoughts, anyone? Martin ___ the OrchidGuide Digest (OGD) [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://lists.orchidguide.com/mailman/listinfo/orchids
[OGD] Botany of Desire
Thanks, MaryLou, I just ordered the book from Amazon,com Martin At 11:29 AM -0400 7/5/04, Robert and MaryLou Porlick wrote: Martin" Yes Martin, have any of you read Michael Pollens book Botany of Desire?? That gives a wonderful new perspective to the whole relationship of plants and animals and especially US!! I love that book and recommend it highly. Just who or what do we think is really in charge??\ Best to all, Mary Lou/Miami ___ the OrchidGuide Digest (OGD) [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://lists.orchidguide.com/mailman/listinfo/orchids
[OGD] Rroliferating Orchids
In OGD 271 Bill Bergstrom wrote in part: In the parks etc you will find many other Orchids that have found a home and are proliferating..Vandas, Dendrobiums and the like..Given time these too will be seen all over this island, at least. So what's the vector? Martin ___ the OrchidGuide Digest (OGD) [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://lists.orchidguide.com/mailman/listinfo/orchids
[OGD] Proliferating Orchids
At 8:09 AM -1000 7/9/04, Bill Bergstrom wrote: Wind. Folks put up plants on trees and natural pollenators do their job. Wind (which we have plenty of) blows the seed all over the place...Could not begin to tell you what the pollenators are...Could be birds in some cases..insects others...All we know is that plants are cropping up all over the place...Bill Fascinating. It is generally assumed that orchids and their pollinators co-evolve and therefor orchids come to rely on a single pollinator, or a few related pollinators, to propagate in their native habitats. Does this mean that some species, at least, may be conserved by establishing them in parks in new habitats? Also, are hybrids being propagated as well? Martin ___ the OrchidGuide Digest (OGD) [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://lists.orchidguide.com/mailman/listinfo/orchids
[OGD] Charcoal
Many years ago I became disenchanted with bark as a potting medium. I wanted something that would hold up better, so I tried things like Turface, Aliflor and Perlite. They worked, sort of, but none gave me the overall results I was looking for. On a trip to Florida I stopped by a nursery that had all their plants in charcoal. They were overgrown had lots of weeds, and had obviously not been re-potted in several years but when I looked between the weeds I found that the orchids were growing well in spite of the obvious neglect. I tried charcoal alone and found that in the Northeast it didn't retain enough water unless I watered at least once a day, so I tried mixtures of charcoal and sponge rock (extra coarse Perlite) and found that a mix of two parts sponge rock to one part charcoal gave me good water retention with good drainage. I eventually added a little chopped sphagnum moss to the mix and settled on five parts sponge rock, four parts charcoal and one part sphagnum moss. For me it was the holy grail. In response to government regulations the town I lived in started adding KOH to raise the pH to ca 8.0-8.3. They never seemed to get it right, however, usually ending up around 9.3. I was concerned about this and decided to see what effect charcoal has on the pH. It raised it considerably, but my mix had a smaller effect because the sphagnum moss was quite acidic. I added a little vinegar to my water and this have me the desired pH. My plants grew well, and but I really have no proof that this was because of the pH control. It made me fell better at least. A year ago I moved; new water supply (lower pH but 40 ppm of sodium!); lights instead of a greenhouse; RO water instead of municipal water. I saw the thread on charcoal and decided to do a few tests. I found that the conductivity increased by ca 150 5s in one hour when I added 20 grams of charcoal to 200 ml RO water, or to RO water plus 30 ppm Calcium (as the nitrate) or to a fertilizer (Peters 15-16-17) solution containing ca 150 ppm nitrogen. The pH of the RO water jumped to 8.4, that of the calcium nitrate solution to 8.0 (from 5.6), and the fertilizer solution to 7.0 (from 5.3). I suspect that the charcoal has a significant amount of residual potash which is extracted and raises the pH. Rembember in the old days charcoal was used a a source of lye in soap making. In any case, my plants continue to thrive. I suspect that the lye is extracted in the first few waterings and cause no long term problem. This probably is not true in flasking media. My only problem is that with the large amount of air movement in my plant room, combined with the long days (16 hours) I am using cause the plants dry out too quickly. I am experimenting with coconut chip (with some sponge rock and some charcoal). So far no problems but too soon to be sure. Anyway, far from adsorbing things, the horticultural charcoal I use seems to be a net contributor to the potting medium...at least initially. Martin ___ the OrchidGuide Digest (OGD) [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://lists.orchidguide.com/mailman/listinfo/orchids
[OGD] Conserving Peter's Vanda
Nice looking Vanda, Peter. How are you going to conserve it? Sooner or later someone less scrupulous than you will find it. Indeed, now that the orchid world has heard about it there may actually be people looking for it, and I am sure they will, in time, succeed. Perhaps they can back track your route. Did you have guides? Will they talk? Perhaps if you had not published your finding it would have a better chance of surviving. Of course you could propagate the species and distribute seedlings. This would take a lot of pressure off the plants in their native environment. If you had done this and waited for the seedlings to mature before announcing your find to the world it's possible that no one would even look for it in the wild. So what are you doing to save this new Vanda species??? Martin ___ the OrchidGuide Digest (OGD) [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://lists.orchidguide.com/mailman/listinfo/orchids
[OGD] Dr. Braem's Qualifications
At 8:46 AM + 8/1/04, David Baby wrote: Who are you Dr. Braem? I'm curious, so I decided to look for one of your great publications in scientific reviews, but you seem to be unknown there... So, please, indicate to me what you've done that was so great that you're able to be so proud of yourself... David This subject has been raised before. Do a Google search. His credentials are excellent. David Baby, I have concluded that you are not an idiot. You are a lazy idiot. How you feel about Guido is irrelevant. Go crawl back under your rock. Martin ___ the OrchidGuide Digest (OGD) [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://lists.orchidguide.com/mailman/listinfo/orchids
[OGD] AOS Directory
The AOS is currently compiling their membership and speakers directory. In response to their mailing I called them to update my biography. First I asked them if the directory would be distributed free to members. They said no, there would be a charge. This didn't surprise me. I expected the charge to be nominal, but was astounded to find that it would be two payments of $39.99 each! I declined to upgrade my information. Frankly the directory is of little use to me, and I suspect that it is rarely used by most members. I can use the $79.98 to buy plants instead. It seems to me that the AOS is getting very greedy, and I wonder if the Taj Mahal (aka the White Elephant) they are building is the underlying cause. They sholud be careful that they don't price themselves out of the market. Thoughts, anyone? Martin ___ the OrchidGuide Digest (OGD) [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://lists.orchidguide.com/mailman/listinfo/orchids
[OGD] AOS Directory
It occurred to me that I might be listed in the directory even if I didn't respond to the request to update my biography, so i called back and was told that this in fact was the case. I really don't want to be listed in a directory for which I have no use, so I asked them not to use my name. They agreed. In these days of identity theft and unwarranted intrusion via telephone and e-mail I believe that people should be asked if they want to be listed, so I called theAOS. I was told that in the initial mailing I was given the chance to decline. This is not quite the same thing as being asked if I wanted to be included. I don't recall seeing this. Anyway, if you don't want to be included you must call the publisher and tell them. Martin ___ the OrchidGuide Digest (OGD) [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://lists.orchidguide.com/mailman/listinfo/orchids
[OGD] Nutrient Levels
Davek wrote: You see pictures of orchids in the wild with extensive root systems; Cattleyas for example with roots extended several meters along the trunk and branches of the host tree. My impression is that plants in the wild grow much more slowly than those in cultivation. When you see a large plant in the wild it may have taken 10 or 15 years to get to that size. As far as the length of roots go, putting a plant in a pot limits what the roots can do. As the plant (and the pot) get bigger the roots (especially in the center part of the plant) can stay wet longer and get less oxygen. When Cattleyas get to specimen size they do better in a slatted basket with a very loose potting mix. Personally I find that my Cattleyas (and just about everything else) do best with at least 150 ppm nitrogen, provided that they are flushed thoroughly to prevent salt build-up. Also, the more light the better (but don't burn the leaves). With modern HID lamps it is possible to provide plants with far more light than they get in the wild: long cloudless days. Martin ___ the OrchidGuide Digest (OGD) [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://lists.orchidguide.com/mailman/listinfo/orchids
[OGD] pH of RO Water
Olga, don't sweat it. For orchid growing purposes the pH of RO water is meaningless. RO water is not buffered, that is it varies with only minor compositional changes. It reflects traces of acidity/alkalinity and is due virtually entirely to dissolved carbon dioxide. The various ions available from your potting medium will swamp whatever value you measure. Of much more importance is the pH of your fertilizer solution; that is buffered. Martin At 6:43 PM +0200 8/12/04, Olga Caussade wrote: Many thanks to Nick, Paul and Peter for your answers. For Nick, I have RO water and it has a pH of 6.5 before storage. For Paul, no my pH meter do not have a temperature compensation function. For Peter, I do not have any plants or algae in my water. The problem is that I grow Phrags and I try to do it between a pH of 5.5 to 6 and this fluctuation give me much more work to calibrate my water. Does pollution and heat could provoque wholly or partly of this difference? ___ the OrchidGuide Digest (OGD) [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://lists.orchidguide.com/mailman/listinfo/orchids
[OGD] Amen, Harvey
Harvey, the injection of US politics notwithstanding, I second your comments on the AOS. Well said. Martin ___ the OrchidGuide Digest (OGD) [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://lists.orchidguide.com/mailman/listinfo/orchids
[OGD] AOS Membership
According to the forms 990 the AOS membership total receipts from dues and assessments has remained fairly constant from 1998 to 2001. This is in spite of regular increases in dues. I paid, for a two year membership, $65 in 1998, $72 in 2000 and 2002, and $84 in 2004. Over the same period pledges have dropped every year, from $860,000 at the beginning of 1998 to $246,000 at the end of 2002. The liquid assets have dropped from $7,200,000 to $3,100,000. while the fixed assets (largely the new building, I presume) rose from $200,000 to $6,100,000 over the same period of time. Building the new facility is clearly a strain on the organization. Services have been cut and dues and fees have been raised. A less ambitious undertaking would have been more prudent. The organization is still solvent but is sliding down hill from a financial point of view. The rapid changes in information technology have brought into question the nature of the future of the society. The elected and managerial leadership must take a hard look at where the organization is going and how it conducts its business. After a long career in industry I spent a number of years doing pro bono consulting work, largely in planning, for non-profit organizations. In both venues I have seen organizations get in trouble by running on momentum in a changing world. I have felt for a long time that the AOS leadership is not totally in touch with the realities of the situation. From my point of view they seem to have adopted a bunker mentality. Too bad. I suspect that the real reason for passing over Howard Bronstein has to do more with disagreements on the new building and the society's financial situation than anything else. I welcome an alternate slate because I believe it's time for a change in direction. I confess that I know too little about what the positions of any of the candidates is on the organization's future. I dislike rubber stamping a slate that is developed in secret and has no opposition. Many other organizations have multiple candidates who present platforms describing what they would do if elected thereby offering the opportunity for their members to exercise intelligent choice. By the way, I applaud Bill Rhodehamel's clear description of how he plans to conduct the election proceedings. Martin Epstein ___ the OrchidGuide Digest (OGD) [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://lists.orchidguide.com/mailman/listinfo/orchids
[OGD] Growing under Lights
In OGD 351, Julia Redman said she was about to install a basement greenhouse. Thirteen months ago I did the same thing. I had a list of requirements that I wanted to be satisfied, if possible. 1. As much light as possible short of burning the leaves. 2. Broad spectrum of light for maximum growth and blooming. 3. Control of maximum air temperature by bringing in outside air. 4. Lots of air movement to keep the plant leaves cool. 5. Control of minimum temperature (New England winters!) with a small supplementary heater, if necessary. 6. A vapor barrier to protect the rest of the house from moisture. 7. A floor drain so I could water with a hose. 8. Movable benches to maximize growing space. 9. SAFETY: outdoor quality receptacles, no electric cords on the floor, ballasts suspended, etc, etc, etc. 10. A potting area inside my 'green' room. I was able to meet all my requirements. For lights I chose 1000 watt broad spectrum SunAgro HID lamps, suspended approximately 3.5 feet from the bottom of the bench. At this level the top of a one foot tall plant gets ca. 3500 foot candles intensity. The lights are on 6 foot tracks. Growth has been great, and just about everything has bloomed well for me. I bring in outside through intake shutters which open (insect screeing a must) when a 12 inch exhaust fan (Fantech 12-4) is on. This fan has the capability of replacing the air every 90 seconds. The fan is controlled by a Hunter low cost, low voltage programmable thermostat (K-Mart). At this time of the year it is set to go on at 60F and got off at 80F. Maximum room air temperature is no more than one degree F above the outside temperature in the shade. I have a 12 inch Schhaeffer greenhouse fan high in one corner of the room, and a 16 inch Vornado one foot above the floor in another corner. All the leaves are moving all the time, and the leaves of the tallest plants remain cool to the touch (6000+ foot candles). The room stays warm enough at nights on the coldest days, and are adequately heated by the lamps. I do use a small auxiliary electric heater (three feet off the floor and away from the growing area) in case my intake shutter freezes open, and to raise the room temperature more quickly. It operates off its own thermostat. The room's interior walls and ceiling are constructed of a sheet reinforced plastic (vinyl, I believe) called Kemlite. It is used to line industrial kitchens and car washes. It comes with joining and corner strips. The bottom is caulked with high quality silicone sealer. All holes, e.g, for screws, are filled with silicone prior to inserting. There is an additional plastic sheet in the ceiling. The room is 12+ feet by 16 + feet, and the ceiling is ca 7 feet high. I do have a floor drain, and I do water with a hose. I have two, 33 gallon plastic barrels (Home Depot), one for RO water and the other for fertilizer. I use a 1/3 HP submersible pump and a 25 foot 3/8 inch coiled hose(Charley's Greenhouse; home Depot is cheaper). Delivery rate is about 3 gpm. There are three benches on wheels: 2, 12 feet X 3 feet and 1, 10 feet X 3 feet. There is a lamp on a six foot rail for each. I need a better wheel system; they occasionally come off. The benches were built out of cedar locally by a company that erects greenhouses. They have expanded metal bottoms. i have attached various fixtures for hanging plants. The electric outlets (duplex) are about 5.5 feet above the floor and are designed for outdoor use. Each lamp and its drive motor are attached to the same duplex outlet. There is a timer for each light and its motor, located outside the room. The three lamps are on a single 25 amp circuit which has proven to be quite adequate. All other electric components are on a different circuit. There are ground fault interrupters. There is a six foot X three foot potting bench which is adequate, and a laundry tub for scrubbing pots. What would I do differently? Not a whole heck of a lot. I will be delighted to supply additional information to anyone who wants it. Martin ___ the OrchidGuide Digest (OGD) [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://lists.orchidguide.com/mailman/listinfo/orchids
[OGD] AOS Membership
In OGD 358, Bill Bergstrom said: In response to Epstein's remarks..though well intended perhaps..not nearly complete enough to spark any more conflict in regards to the status of the AOS...Here is the message from Lee Cooke to me this morning..." Simply put, werre1,049 members better than where we stood a year ago. At August 1, we had 26,394 members. We have seen a net gain it membership in 13 of the last 19 months. These are the facts" Lee Cooke. I am delighted to hear this; I want the AOS to succeed. I believe that the new format of Orchids (which I like but some revile) is largely responsible for this. However, the long term trend has been down, not because the leadership of the AOS has done something wrong but because their response to changes in information technology is inadequate. The AOS no longer has a monopoly on information for the average orchid grower. As some have pointed out, this is not unique to the AOS; other organizations are feeling the same pinch. Though the short term trend may be re-assuring, I am far from convinced that the long term trend has been reversed. I still believe the size and scope of the new headquarters and greenhouse is ill advised. I don't believe we need a greenhouse to showcase orchids in southern Florida. Of course it could be used to propagate plants for sale in competition with the local growers; or it could be used for research on orchid culture to further knowledge in the field. Let's see what happens as funds get tighter. On a positive note here is a suggestion. I would be pleased to receive Orchids on the Internet and skip the hard copy. This would cut costs. Of course I would expect some reduction in my membership fee in return. On another note, the largest single expense listed in the latest form 990 filing is "Other" at $883,859 (total expenses $3,523,641). The next two largest expenses are Other Salaries and Wages (i.e, those for non-management personnel) at $788,106, and Printing and Publications at $723,826. "Other" is detailed in Statement 9 as awards, $32,489, Services and Professional Fees, $392,068, and "Miscellaneous" $459,302. Huh? I sure would like to know what that is. The "Miscellaneous" is higher than any previous number by far. In fact, it is higher that the Other line in any of the previous returns I could find. This lack of specificity is worrisome. It makes me distrust the management. Are they covering something up? I believe it is a duty of any non-profit organization tell their members how they are spending their money. Frankly, profit making corporations do a better job... Finally, the statement that No one is going to be making ANY decisions on their own for the AOS...It is all done with agreement between ALL twenty five of the Exec Board and Trustees. does not reassure me. Too many management organizations become like-minded, recruiting only those who agree with them, right or wrong, and that is exactly what I fear the AOS is doing. Wouldn't it be nice to have more than one candidate for the key positions, each spelling out what their vision of the future of the AOS, and what they would do to achieve it? Martin Epstein ___ the OrchidGuide Digest (OGD) [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://lists.orchidguide.com/mailman/listinfo/orchids
[OGD] Mealybugs
Iris' prescription for getting rid of mealybugs, ...I still believe the only sure method for the hobbyist is a systemic insecticide. I have found Orthenex safe and effective (3 times a week apart)...snip works great, but read and follow her caveats ri safety. BTW, Orthenex contains Orthene and Funginex, a fungicide. It also works on scale. I have found that Enstar II, especially when combined with Mavrik Aquaflow, works even better, and may be safer to use (but I still use precautions). It is recommended for "FOR CONTROL OF WHITEFLIES, APHIDS, SOFT-BODIED AND ARMORED SCALES, MEALYBUGS, AND FUNGUS GNATS IN GREENHOUSES AND INTERIORSCAPES (I.E., ATRIUMS) ON ORNAMENTAL PLANTS " See http://216.239.41.104/search?q=cache:pnk15g8x2Z4J:www.mavrikaquaflow.com/pdf/ Enstar_Spec_label.pdf+enstar+II&hl=en What does not work are alcohol, Safer soaps, etc. They do kill the individual mealybugs you see which unfortunately may be only a small proportion of those that are there. These will multiply until the infestation gets out of hand. If you have only a few plants and you see a mealybug, killing it with a Q-tip soaks in alcohol, followed by re-potting and washing the roots to get rid of the hidden bugs and their eggs may work. Martin Epstein ___ the OrchidGuide Digest (OGD) [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://lists.orchidguide.com/mailman/listinfo/orchids
[OGD] RéOther Expenses
Thank you, Bill, much appreciated. The explanation answers my question. It's just that i am used to seeing such large (relatively speaking) numbers explained in more detail in financial statements. Of course the item should not have been booked in the first place: a sale is not a sale until you have the money. I am sure that there was no fraudulent intent to make the P & L look better in a previous year. BTW, I want to complement you on your clear description of how you plan to handle the election process should another slate be proposed. It would be a good model to apply to an explanation of the state of the AOS finances. The latest data I have are from the public record for the year 2001 (the tear ending 06/30/04). I hope the finances have improved over the last two years. Martin ___ the OrchidGuide Digest (OGD) [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://lists.orchidguide.com/mailman/listinfo/orchids
[OGD] Bush Snails, Caffeine and a Bit of Rambling History
Those pesky critters! I used to have them, and slugs as well, but now they seem to have disappeared and I really don't know why. Some might say that my eye sight at 78 is the reason, but even the tiniest bush snails show up against the white of a potato slice, which is what I use to scout for slugs and snails. When I grew orchids in a greenhouse I sprayed with SlugIt liquid (a metaldehyde preparation) which brought the population down to a reasonable level. I made sure that I sprayed the gravel under the benches, and threw a few handfuls of the dry product on the ground as well. Then I moved to a condominium and started growing under lights in my basement. I assumed that I still had lots of the little beasties, so when I read in Nature Magazine that caffeine is a repellant for them I decided to look into it. I contacted one of the authors (he grew orchids) who assured me that he had used it on many genera and had never seen a problem. The article cites a 2% caffeine solution. The author told me that a 1% solution seems to be good, too, but that 0.1% does no good, and that 0.5% is probably marginal at best (I am quoting this from memory). Strong coffee contains only about 150 mg in eight ounces (ca 0.064%). Red Bull, the strongest of the new wave (at the time, 2003) of caffeinated drinks had only 80 mg in 8.2 ounces (0.033%). Clearly none of these would do. I found a product called Amphetrazine: tablets containing 200 mg each. I bought (on the net) a bottle of 100, 20 grams of caffeine total. This is enough to make 2 liters of a 1% caffeine solution. Caffeine is reasonably soluble in water, but makes up only a third of the weight of a tablet. The rest is filler and a blue dye. So harking back to my long career as a chemist I extracted the caffeine with water and got almost two liters of a blue solution (probably a dye added by the manufacturer). BTW, I used protective measures: gloves, respirator, etc.; concentrated solutions of caffeine can be toxic. Up to this point I had assumed that I had a decent population of bush snails as well as a few slugs, to experiment on but I wanted to get a base point so I could measure the decrease in the population. On thirty potato slices there was only one slug and only 3 bush snails. This would never do! I needed lots of them if I were going to be able to measure the effectiveness of the caffeine, so I decided to wait; surely the population would grow. Now they seem to have vanished entirely! When this thread was re-opened I decided to scout again. No slugs or bush snails on 40 potato slices!!! I still have a bottle of unused caffeine solution. Why is this? Maybe it's because I diligently wash the roots of all my plants when I re-pot. Or maybe the combination of Enstar II and Mavrik Aquaflow, the only insecticide I use (and not very often) has an effect on slugs and snails, or maybe the floor being concrete instead of gravel has something to do with it. Or maybe I am living a good life, or it's because I am a few miles closer to the ocean, or the magnetic declination is different. One thing is certain: I will continue to wash the roots thoroughly when I re-pot. martin ___ the OrchidGuide Digest (OGD) [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://lists.orchidguide.com/mailman/listinfo/orchids
[OGD] Home Depot Orchids
A new Home Depot opened in Plaistow, NH, near where I live, and they had at least a hundred good looking (hybrid) orchid plants at very reasonable prices. All were labelled and several of the label names I checked matched RHS registered names. The plants look great, and there were mericlones of (claimed) awarded AOS Plants, Phalaenopsis. Total leaf spans on the latter varied from 12 to 18 inches, and they all looked good. Prices for 6 inch pots ran from about $15 to $27, the latter for an awarded plant. There were Oncisium alliance (Colmanaras, Alicearas, etc) with several spikes (sorry, Iris) and Dendrobiums as well as Phalies. Generally I grow species but as a matter of curiosity I bought a white Phalaenopsis (two plants in one pot, leaf spread ca 19 ") for $16.96, and an 'awarded' yellow clone for $26.96. The down side: although the plants looked good the roots didn't. Theye were potted in 'mud' with some bark on top. Of course I re-potted them, separating the two plants that were in a single pot. My intent is to see what kind of specimens I can make of them, then donate them (maybe) to one of our society auctions. Martin Epstein ___ the OrchidGuide Digest (OGD) [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://lists.orchidguide.com/mailman/listinfo/orchids
[OGD] Paph cross
I have a Paph cross labelled 'supardii X praestans' , nice plants. Does anyone know if it has been named? I though I got it from RJ Rands. Marty ___ the OrchidGuide Digest (OGD) [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://lists.orchidguide.com/mailman/listinfo/orchids
[OGD] Paph supardii X praestans cross
Thanks to all who answered my query. The definitive answer was sent by Scott Ware: Martin, The RHS registrar has been sending back my registrations with praestans changed to glanduliferum. So if that holds true for Ray's cross, (supardii x glanduliferum) = Paph. Mark Eickhoff. Marty ___ the OrchidGuide Digest (OGD) [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://lists.orchidguide.com/mailman/listinfo/orchids
[OGD] George Norris
Disclaimer: This is not a political statement. George Norris was a staunch supporter of of George W. Bush, who he called Dubbya or something like that. I think it's ironic that he may have fallen afoul of the Patriot's Act and that at one time the ACLU was reported as thinking of defending him. He is guilty. Although I personally cannot warm up to the man the punishment doesn't fit the crime. Martin Epstein ___ the OrchidGuide Digest (OGD) [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://lists.orchidguide.com/mailman/listinfo/orchids
[OGD] AOS Financials
The 2002 IRS return for the American Orchid Society is now available at: http://www.guidestar.org/ This is how I read it: For the year 2002 (year ending 07/01/02) The deficit was $653,000. The actual prior year deficit $457,000 (removing the reversal of income booked in prior years but never received). Cash flow was also negative. Income from contributions, gifts and grants dropped by about $360,000 to $253,000. Program revenue increased $236,000. Dues decreased by $67,000. The society lost $74,000 on sales of securities, $11,000 on fund raising events (they lost $42,000 on the orchid gala! offset partially by a gain of $31,000 on auctions), and lost $ 3,000 on sales from inventory, presumably the orchid emporium. Personal comments: This is the second straight year that the AOS has lost money on the gala, and the Orchid Emporium seems to me to have a bleak future. Most orchid books are available at much lower prices from Amazon.com, and the trinkets they are trying to sell are greatly overpriced compared to what's available elsewhere. Admittedly most have an orchid decoration, but really how big is the market for that? Inventories did drop by $73,000. Expenses have been cut by $64,000 (excluding depreciation and again reversing the income booked but never received). Much of this came from salaries and benefits, but the Executive Director and the CFO did get moderate increases. Research grants were cut in half to $45,000. Liquid assets (securities, savings, inventory, receivables, prepaid expenses) were $3,779,000, down from $4,052,000 in the prior year and $9,380,000 in 1997. The difference went to the building program. Since the investment base is much smaller, dividend and interest incomes have dropped from $399,000 in 1997 to $189,000 in 2001 and $142,000 in 2002. Of course, the stock market crash and the low interest rates don't help, either. Personal comments: The primary purpose of a treasury is to accumulate funds for use in support of an organization's goals. Having a lot of money in the bank does not do anything for the membership unless it is used. I don't question building a headquarters facility with some of that money. I personally believe that the scope of the project was too large, and much of that money would have been better spent on orchid research, conservation and the like. The overall picture. In my view, is of an organization gradually going down hill. The situation is not yet drastic but it will be unless changes are made. I have yet to see anything concrete to indicate that anything is changing. Martin Epstein ___ the OrchidGuide Digest (OGD) [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://lists.orchidguide.com/mailman/listinfo/orchids
[OGD] AOS Galas
Carol Holdren wrote, in part, Re the AOS financial report. This is the IRS form you are reporting on. The AOS financial year goes from July 1 to June 30. Neither gala lost money - the first made over $60,000, the second made money also, although much less. If so I would be delighted. I know what hard work goes into running events like these and the satisfaction that must follow when they are successful. Both the 2003 1nd 2004 returns ( for the tears ending June 30, 2002 and June 30, 2003) have direct expenses exceeding gross revenue. It is not unusual for expenses incurred in one calendar year to lead to revenues in a subsequent year. Of course, the revenues would then have to show up in a following year's report. If the Gala actually returned a profit of $60,000+ that's a number big enough to be hard to miss. Can you tell me where these revenues show up in the tax form? Are they considered to be contributions as part of direct public support? What kind of commitments are made at the Gala that are given over a number of years? You also stated: You can receive the yearly 2003/2004 financial information from the AOS - see their web site for information. I am having trouble finding this; probably my age. Could you please provide the appropriate URL? martin Epstein ___ the OrchidGuide Digest (OGD) [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://lists.orchidguide.com/mailman/listinfo/orchids
[OGD] Silica
To my knowledge it has not been proven that silica is an essential element for orchids. Prosthecheas do contain silica bodies in the leaves which is a distinguishing difference from Encyclias. It is essential for rice and probably for sugar cane. Crystalline silica is insoluble and is not a source of silica for plants. Amorphous silica has some solubility and can be absorbed by plants. Where epiphytic orchids get their silica is a mystery to me. The plants must be very efficient in absorbing this element. A source of amorphous silica is Diatomite and is sold by Maidenwell in Australia for incorporation in orchid potting mix. It is pretty expensive. http://www.maidenwelldiatomiteaustralia.com/ Another potential source of amorphous silica is the mineral wollastonite which is used in refractory ceramics and as a filler is plastics. This is a very cheap product and I don't know anyone who sells it for horticultural use. I was able to get a five gallon can as a sample and have been adding it to my mix for about a year. Frankly I don't see any difference. Martin Epstein ___ the OrchidGuide Digest (OGD) [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://lists.orchidguide.com/mailman/listinfo/orchids
[OGD] Intellectual Property and Science
Title: Intellectual Property and Science Scientific progress is dependent on the open and free exchange of information. In the years before the electronic revolution this meant publishing in written journals. This is an expensive undertaking and obviously the publisher has a right to recoup his costs and to make a profit. Scientists are generally not paid (given money) for their contributions but gain prestige which can lead to increased income. It is clearly in the best interests of the scientists, the field in which they work and eventually the public to have their work disseminated as widely as possible. With modern electronic technology (primarily the Internet) it is possible to do this more rapidly and at a lower cost than with the traditional print methods. It is not in the best interests of print publishers who make money from their efforts. I note that the Diredctor of the NIH has proposed a freely accessible literature archive for papers resulting from NIH funding. This, predictably, is opposed by many scientific publishers. I believe that systems will evolve which will result in most scientific papers appearing on the web, perhaps after a waiting period. Perhaps text books, too. Regarding the protection of intellectual property, the pirating of music, movies and software is BIG business. I suspect that the push to have other countries adopt our intellectual property laws is driven by the size of the sales lost, which must be several orders of magnitude greater than the dollars involved in scientific publication. Without this motivation I doubt that the US government would make a big deal regarding scientific intellectual property rights. Am I getting to be too cynical? Martin Epstein ___ the OrchidGuide Digest (OGD) [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://orchidguide.com/mailman/listinfo/orchids_orchidguide.com
[OGD] Rainwater and pH
A little knowledge can be a dangerous thing. We all know that a pH below 7 denotes an acid condition, and a pH above 7 denotes an alkaline condition. pH is a logarithmic scale: i.e., a single unit change in pH represents a ten-fold change in acidity. Thus a pH of 4 is 1000 times as acid as a pH of 7. In the case of rainwater, it contains dissolved carbon dioxide, the amount being dependent on the exposure. This is also true of distilled water, de-ionized water and RO water, when exposed to the air for any period of time. The pH can easily be as low as 5.5. This solution is not buffered, however, and will rise rapidly when exposed to the merest traces of alkali. I doubt that pH of rainwater collected from a wood roof has anything to do with dissolved tannins; the contact time is too short. In short, don't sweat it. Martin Epstein ___ the OrchidGuide Digest (OGD) [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://orchidguide.com/mailman/listinfo/orchids_orchidguide.com
[OGD] Access Problems
Sorry to bother the list with this, but... Betty Levine at Sy & Betty Levine" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, a long time member of the list, has not been receiving her OGD since sometime in December. They have re-subscribed, etc., and have sent messages to [EMAIL PROTECTED] to no avail. I hope Kenneth sees this and does something about it. If any list members have any ideas of what to do I hope they communicate them directly to Betty, Kenneth or even to me. Martin Epstein ___ the OrchidGuide Digest (OGD) orchids@orchidguide.com http://orchidguide.com/mailman/listinfo/orchids_orchidguide.com
[OGD] EC vs TDS
Ray Barkalow asked: Besides, if that was the case, why is it that labels on commercial fertilizers or their bulk components typically provide an EC table, but not the TDS? The reason is simple. There is no easy way of measuring TDS, but conductivity meters measure EC directly. One may approximate TDS from EC by applying a factor, but different meter manufacturers of so-called TDS meters use different factors, usually between 0.7 and 0.8. The conductivity of the ingredients vary greatly, however, and the factor for Peters 30-10-10 would be 2.4. Reputable fertilizer manufacturers provide information relating EC to nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium and minor element contents so that one may know what they are applying to their plants. This relationship varies with fertilizer composition. The only way to measure TDS is to take a sample, weigh it, evaporate to dryness and weigh it again. Time consuming, and the results probably have limited value. If you happen to own a so-called TDS meter and wish to use it to monitor the concentration of nutrients you are using I suggest that you contact the manufacturer, find out what factor is used, and convert your readings to EC. Martin Epstein ___ the OrchidGuide Digest (OGD) orchids@orchidguide.com http://orchidguide.com/mailman/listinfo/orchids_orchidguide.com
[OGD] ED and TDS Meters
Bert Pressman said: I have read all those heated discussions on EC & TDS and wondered if I was experiencing a resurrection of medieval philosophers arguing about how many angles can dance on the head of a pin. Do orchids possess EC meters that tell them when to burn their roots? Can conductivity distinguish between good guys, such as nitrate, potassium and calcium, and bad guys such as sodium? And what about urea which has no conductivity at all? How do orchids decide how to distinguish straight water washes from high TDS fertilizer solutions? It would be wonderful if there were a simple instrument that would predict with accuracy the response of orchids to a dousing, but wishing won't make it so. I know from the municipal authorities what's in my water initially and I know what I add to it. I do monitor its pH with a glass electrode. What more do I need to know?Bert Pressman Bert, You are missing the point. You should monitor your fertilizer concentration. You can do this with an EC meter combined with the fertilizer manufacturer's data. You can't do it with a so-called TDS meter unless you know what factor was used to convert EC to TDS. IMHO, this is much more important in an on-going basis than monitoring pH. Martin Epstein ___ the OrchidGuide Digest (OGD) orchids@orchidguide.com http://orchidguide.com/mailman/listinfo/orchids_orchidguide.com
[OGD] Re: Need to Measure EC/TDS
Why using an EC is a good idea: 1. It is true that one can weigh fertilizer, measure water volume and calculate solids and nitrogen contents, and there is nothing wrong with your calculations. It is also true that one can make mistakes in weighing and measuring. The meter is a useful tool to check the final result. One who never makes mistakes may not feel this is necessary, any more than proof reading one's writing is necessary, but I am one of the mere mortals who do make mistakes. And oh yes, i don't need a thermometer to tell me it is cold outside but use one. A friend of mine (who measured with teaspoons, tablespoons and gallon bottles) asked me if I could help him figure out what was wrong with his orchids. It turned out that he was using three times as much fertilizer as he thought he was, and his normal level was high to begin with. I think he may have switched from teaspoons to tablespoons without realizing it. 2. For those who use proportioning devices to mix fertilizer concentrate into their watering stream an EC meter is a useful tool to check whether the proportioning device is doing what it should. In the extreme case I discovered, many years ago, the Hozon siphon mixers can be off, when 'properly' used by a factor of two in either direction. Proportioning pumps are better but not without their problems. Some years ago I was using a good quality proportioning pump I noted (by using my EC meter) that my fertilizer concentration was dropping with time. I found that my concentrate tank was being diluted by my under bench spray misting nozzles. You may think I was unobservant but I assure you that because of its location it was far from obvious, 3. If you don't happen to have a scale but use teaspoons and tablespoons to approximate weight you don't really know your fertilizer concentration. Martin Epstein ___ the OrchidGuide Digest (OGD) orchids@orchidguide.com http://orchidguide.com/mailman/listinfo/orchids_orchidguide.com
[OGD] Kudos for a Real Contributor
I think we should take a few moments out from our discussions of orchid personalities and give some recognition to Jay Pfahl and his Internet Orchid Species Encyclopedia. If by some very remote chance you are not familiar with it, go to: http://orchidspecies.com/ Without bravura, fanfare, or ego insertion he has made a major contribution to the orchid world. Since he doesn't seem to want to blow his own horn I hereby sound a loud tantara for him. Martin Epstein ___ the OrchidGuide Digest (OGD) orchids@orchidguide.com http://orchidguide.com/mailman/listinfo/orchids_orchidguide.com
[OGD] Ghost Orchid
Juli, Try Oak Hill Gardens. http://www.oakhillgardens.com/htm/orchid_fs_detail.php?prod=561 Martin ___ the OrchidGuide Digest (OGD) orchids@orchidguide.com http://orchidguide.com/mailman/listinfo/orchids_orchidguide.com
[OGD] Lightbinders
This software runs well on the Mac, system 10.3. It also ran on older systems (as far back as 8.0, if memory serves me correctly). A tribute to the backward compatibility of the Mac. Martin ___ the OrchidGuide Digest (OGD) orchids@orchidguide.com http://orchidguide.com/mailman/listinfo/orchids_orchidguide.com
[OGD] Famous People into Orchids
Title: Famous People into Orchids Who was the Rothschild who grew orchids? Also, Robert Brown, who discovered Brownian motion, was a famous naturalist who spent a number of years (circa 1800) discovering orchids. Martin ___ the OrchidGuide Digest (OGD) orchids@orchidguide.com http://orchidguide.com/mailman/listinfo/orchids_orchidguide.com
[OGD] ré Zyklon : Cyclone
For the uninitiated, the use of the name Cyclone for a roller coaster has a long history. When I was a lad my family spent summers in Coney Island. There was a venerable roller coaster named Cyclone. It is still there: http://www.robbiebecklund.com/pop.2122.cyclone.html Since the word Cyclone = Zyklon in German I see nothing wrong with its use for another roller coaster. Martin ___ the OrchidGuide Digest (OGD) orchids@orchidguide.com http://orchidguide.com/mailman/listinfo/orchids_orchidguide.com
[OGD] Temperature/humidity Sensors
I have been using a Radio Shack remote sensor and am well satisfied. I have checked its accuracy with a sling psychrometer and found it to be pkus or minus 5% over the range of 30 to 70% RH. The original request for information noted that the remote they had tried did not agree with what was reported by the weather bureau. In making such a comparison there are two potential pitfalls. The first is that RH changes with temperature and comparisons must either be made at the same temperature or corrected for the difference. Please note that the dew point does not vary with temperature. Second, RH can vary widely with small changes in location. That's why many orchids are more likely to be found near streams. Martin Epstein ___ the OrchidGuide Digest (OGD) orchids@orchidguide.com http://orchidguide.com/mailman/listinfo/orchids_orchidguide.com
[OGD] Repotting Cattleya
Charles Bracker asked about potting media for Cattleya alliance orchids, and when to repot them. I have grown Cattleyas successfully (and well) in many different kinds of media. In vivo they grow mostly on trees, often with some litter around the roots, sometimes in litter usually on hillsides, and sometimes on rocky outgrowths. They do well mounted on bark slabs if you can adjust you watering habits to suit. For our convenience (not the plant's) we usually grow in pots. There is no best single medium. It depends on your growing conditions. The medium must support the plant properly, drain well and allow air around the roots, be stable (not decay) for a prolonged period of time, not allow build-up of toxic by-products, have reasonable moisture retention, be easy to handle and not be too costly. I am sure there are other characteristics and readers are free to add to the list. In my 35+ years of growing orchids I have tried many things. I started with bark but found that it broke down (became mushy) too quickly for my tastes, and I didn't like the variability from batch to batch. I tried Turface, which is inorganic and doesn't break down but is too heavy. I saw some wonderful Cattleyas growing in charcoal in Florida so I tried that. It was OK but dried out too quickly (I was growing in a greenhouse in MA). I added sponge rock (large perlite) and that helped, but adding a little chopped sphagnum moss helped moisture retention. I settled on a mix of 6 parts sponge rock, 3 parts charcoal and one part chopped sphagnum moss, adding a little oyster shell. This mix, in plastic pots, worked very well for me until I moved to a condo and switched to growing under lights. With a lot of air movement and a lot of light I found that the plants dried out a little too fast. I have been trying coco chips (presoaked to get rid of salts) and am now using 6 parts coco chips, three parts sponge rock and one part charcoal, which I am using now for most of my plants. So far the plants are thriving and the mix has been holding up very well (better than bark, IMHO) in plastic pots. I do add a little oyster shell. BTW, I have also grown in Aliflor (fairly good experience), straight sphagnum moss (breaks down too fast and hard to untangle from the roots when re-potting), glass fiber of several types (poor results) and lord knows what else. There is no best single medium. When to repot: when the medium starts to break down or when the plant is too big for the pot. When, for Cattleyas, in their life cycle? I suggest you consult the excellent article in the fourth quarter, 2004 Orchid Digest by William Rogerson, with this additional caveat: if the plant is ailing because the medium has gone bad repot it immediately, trying to disturb the roots as little as possible. Martin ___ the OrchidGuide Digest (OGD) orchids@orchidguide.com http://orchidguide.com/mailman/listinfo/orchids_orchidguide.com
[OGD] Aussie Gold
Colin, A grade of diatomite from Australia (see, for example http://www.maidenwelldiatomiteaustralia.com/aboutUs.htm) has been touted over the last few years as a wonder medium for orchids. Aussie Gold appears to be a medium which includes Australian diatomite, developed in the San Diego, Californis area: http://www.aussie-gold.com/ A picture of the mix shown on that web site looks like it has at least a couple of other ingredients. I have no idea if it's any good. I suspect that it is the latest in a series of snake oil type products designed to enrich feather merchants at the expense of gullible orchid growers. There really is no panacea which will replace good cultural practice (and a bit of hard work). Martin ___ the OrchidGuide Digest (OGD) orchids@orchidguide.com http://orchidguide.com/mailman/listinfo/orchids_orchidguide.com
[OGD] Smuggling Spoiled
More than 1,100 plants from the Phillipines with false papers were intercepted in Miami. They are now at the New York botanical Garden in The Bronx. See: http://www.nytimes.com/2005/04/06/nyregion/06orchid.html Maartin ___ the OrchidGuide Digest (OGD) orchids@orchidguide.com http://orchidguide.com/mailman/listinfo/orchids_orchidguide.com
[OGD] Unknown Cross
A couple of years ago (at an auction) I bought a plant labelled Bifrenaria harrisoniae X Anguloa clowesii. Seemed like an interesting cross, to me at least. I have not been able to find any information about this cross, and indeed, with my limited resources I have not been able to find any record of crossing these genera. The person who previously owned it could not help I was hoping to learn more when the plant bloomed, but it has been recalcitrant; a stubborn mule, so to speak. Dose any one on this list have any pertinent information? Martin ___ the OrchidGuide Digest (OGD) orchids@orchidguide.com http://orchidguide.com/mailman/listinfo/orchids_orchidguide.com
[OGD] Isadora and George Bernard
Iris, You said: Remember the story about Isadora Duncan & George Bernard Shaw? Are you suggesting that the cross be tried again with the seed and pod parents being switched? Im sure that you are not otherwise suggesting better not go there. Martin ___ the OrchidGuide Digest (OGD) orchids@orchidguide.com http://orchidguide.com/mailman/listinfo/orchids_orchidguide.com
[OGD] Lycasteria etc.
Thanks, Andy, our thoughts are in sync. I do miss the old Beall's. I still have some of their old crosses, including a very floriferous Miltassia Vino 'Meade' X oncidium wentworthianum which has never been registered. I will keep the Bif X Ang cross for a couple more years and try to frighten it into blooming. Martin ___ the OrchidGuide Digest (OGD) orchids@orchidguide.com http://orchidguide.com/mailman/listinfo/orchids_orchidguide.com
[OGD] Peter O'Byrne's Book
Hey, Peter, was this a ploy to create a run on your book? (grin). It is still available from Amazon.com where it is favorably reviewed by Wolfgang H. Bandisch Martin ___ the OrchidGuide Digest (OGD) orchids@orchidguide.com http://orchidguide.com/mailman/listinfo/orchids_orchidguide.com
[OGD] Huh?
On OGD 266 "Li'l Frog" said: If you can't believe the AOS, who can you believe? Are you kidding? Martin ___ the OrchidGuide Digest (OGD) orchids@orchidguide.com http://orchidguide.com/mailman/listinfo/orchids_orchidguide.com
[OGD] Baiting
Uri, I usually stay out of this kind of thing but your silly baiting of Guido shows a distinct lack of character. We have had enough of this stuff. STOP IT. Martin Epstein ___ the OrchidGuide Digest (OGD) orchids@orchidguide.com http://orchidguide.com/mailman/listinfo/orchids_orchidguide.com
[OGD] Seasons
Title: Seasons From the Wikipedia: The date at which each season begins depends on how it is defined. In the United States, the seasons are often considered to begin at the astronomical solstices and equinoxes: these are sometimes known as the "astronomical seasons". By this reckoning, summer begins at summer solstice, winter at winter solstice, spring at the vernal equinox and autumn at the autumnal equinox. In the United Kingdom, the seasons are traditionally considered to begin about seven weeks earlier: spring begins on Candlemas, summer on May Day, autumn on Lammas, and winter on All Hallows. The Irish calendar uses almost the same reckoning; Spring begins on February 1 / Imbolc, Summer on May 1 / Beltane, Autumn on August 1 / Lughnasadh and Winter on November 1 / Samhain. In meteorology for the Northern hemisphere, spring begins by convention on March 1, summer on June 1, autumn on September 1 and winter on December 1. This definition is also followed in Denmark and former USSR. Conversely, for the Southern hemisphere, meterological summer begins on December 1, autumn on March 1, winter on June 1 and spring on September 1. This definition is also followed in Australia. In the Korean, Chinese, and Japanese calendars are based on a lunisolar calendar where the seasons are defined so that the solstices and equinoxes occur in the middle of each season, which is very close to the meteorological definition of seasons. Martin ___ the OrchidGuide Digest (OGD) orchids@orchidguide.com http://orchidguide.com/mailman/listinfo/orchids_orchidguide.com
[OGD] IOSPE
Title: IOSPE I am sure that most list members are familiar with Jay Pfahl's Internet Orchid Photo Encyclopedia. Over the years he has compiled, for anybody's free use, this magnificent collection of pic yures and information on over 5000 orchid species. If perchance you are not familiar with it go to: http://orchidspecies.com/. I believe that Jay's contributions are of great value to the orchid world and we should all be thankful to him. This is a non-profit venture on his part. Unfortunately, hurricane Wilma has not been kind to him. The details, posted on his web page, are as follows: Hurricane Wilma Report! First off, My wife and children are fine and we still have a roof over our heads, and basically we lost only some of our furniture. Yesterday I ripped out all the walls in the house to 3' high so as to dry out the interior of the walls and get rid of all the wet insulation. Now to the really bad part. I have lost most all my personal orchids, as well as the ones I sell on ebay due to saltwater flooding! The ebay plant sales have been suppling cash to operate the site and buy books. I put them on the floor in my living room so they would not get wind damage, but we had 13" of seawater in the house from the tidal surge. The plants with clay pots fortunately did not float so the medium stayed in as well as the tags but it meant that the pots were fully submerged for the duration of the event. We saved most all the important things and life is getting back to normal. The major problem is now funding the site, until some of the plants recover. For the last few years I sold orchids on ebay to pay for the internet hosting of this site and reference books to make this site as complete as it is. This year alone I bought on ebay over $2000.00 in old books. In the past I had occasionally asked for donations to fund the site and it seems that we are back to that system. Please send any amount to TO PAYPAL PAY TO [EMAIL PROTECTED] Or by Snail Mail to: IOSPE c/o Jay Pfahl/Neptune Designs 301 Duval St Key West Fl 33040 All funds will be used for the page only, I do have flood insurance and it seems that they will pay for all my personal losses over 500.00. I hope to get back to funding by plant sales by the summer. Jay, my check is in the mail. Martin Epstein ___ the OrchidGuide Digest (OGD) orchids@orchidguide.com http://orchidguide.com/mailman/listinfo/orchids_orchidguide.com
[OGD] Are You There?
I haven't received an issue of the OGD since November 29. Could someone reply to me to tell me whether it is still alive? Perhaps my ISP is blocking it? Or maybe I have been inadvertently removed? HELP! Martin ___ the OrchidGuide Digest (OGD) orchids@orchidguide.com http://orchidguide.com/mailman/listinfo/orchids_orchidguide.com
[OGD] List access
I have resolved my problems with my ISP (Comcast) and am receiving the OGD again. My sincerest thanks to all who made suggestions and especially to Dorothy Potter Barnett who has been forwarding the list to me in the interim. Martin ___ the OrchidGuide Digest (OGD) orchids@orchidguide.com http://orchidguide.com/mailman/listinfo/orchids_orchidguide.com
[OGD] Flowering Cymbidiums
Well, I might as well add my two cents to this discussion. I got my firat Cymbidium for Christmas, 1969, Dag. It was followed the following month by C. Mimi. These are lovely 'miniatures' and are supposed to be easier to bloom than standard Cymbidiums, but not for me. I followed the directions prevalent at that time. Quoting from an old Lager and Hurrel catalogue, "Since they require large amounts of water at their roots we recommend a rather heavy mix with good drainage.. A rather sunny location is also necessary for the majority of Cymbidiums regardless of their temperature requirement... (Cymbidiums) are heavy feeders and should be fed with 10-390-20 once a month". Blooming was at best sporadic but improved somewhat when, on the recommendation of a commercial grower I switched to 30-10-10 fertilizer applied once a week from January to June, and 10-30-20 'blossom booster' applied once a week from June to December. The literature had all kinds of recommendations, including putting ice-cubes around the base of the plants in the fall. By now i had a dozen Cymbidiums, both standard and miniature. I needed a lot to gaurantee that I would have some plants blooming that year. Then I noticed that the new growths were generally not mature when Fall arrived, with its shorter days and cooler nights, so I increased my fertilizer concentration, fertilized twice a week and cut out the so-called blossom booster. I also put them outdoors with minimal shade until a light frost threatened. Wow, what a difference. The plants grew a lot more vigorously and threw up multiple spikes (sorry, Iris). My conclusions: Cymbidiums are heavy feeders and require high nitrogen levels all year around; I aim for 200 ppm of nitrogen. The plants grow and bloom best with as much light as possible. The primary signal for the most modern hybrids to bloom is day length, and the growth must be complete by fall. Cool nights, as low as 35 F, are helpful but not absolutely necessary. I have now down-sized and grow under lights, but they hare HID 1000Watt lamps and the tops of the Cymbidiums are exposed to over 6000 fc, with no cloudy days. Night time temperature ranges from 53 to 55 F in September and October, and 60 F or higher for the rest of the year. I have retained only two miniature (Dag and Oriental Lagend 'Enchantress') and a summer blooming species, atropurpureum which has different requirements and they bloom well. The Dag is blooming now and had six spikes at its peak, all well formed an fully flowered. When I sold my plants to downsize my collection I told those who bought them my 'secret', and I have seen a number of my former plants on the local (New Hampshire) orchid society show table I suppose I could grow them just as well in horse manure, but I'd rather not in my basement. Incidentally, some years ago another grower, also European, commented to me that you must dry your Cymbidiums out to get them to bloom reliably. I wonder if this is generally don in Europe? Martin ___ the OrchidGuide Digest (OGD) orchids@orchidguide.com http://orchidguide.com/mailman/listinfo/orchids_orchidguide.com
[OGD] Enstar
I have had remarkable success with Enstar II. Theoretically insects can become resistant to it, however. Consider a population of an insect species. Perhaps there are a few that are more resistant (less affected) than others, and that in the course of events they get a lower exposure to the IGR and mature. There may only be a few, and for this reason they may have trouble finding mates, but if they do their progeny will probably have increased resistance. Consequently I, too, would not bet the farm (and certainly not my orchids!) on the postulate that Enstar resistant strains are impossible. Martin ___ the OrchidGuide Digest (OGD) orchids@orchidguide.com http://orchidguide.com/mailman/listinfo/orchids_orchidguide.com
[OGD] Chlorine in Water and RO Units
Chlorine in Municipal water bad for orchids? Another myth. If you are having problems look to your culture. Perhaps tou need a higher nitrogen level or more light. There are many growers who routinely spray their greenhouse glass with 1 or 2 per cent chlorine bleach to get rid of algae, with the liquid dripping on the plants; no problems. I did this myself when i grew in a greenhouse. Indeed I am told that there are many excellent growers who regularly spray their plants with this solution to combat fungal and bacterial diseases, and I ask list members who do so to comment. RO units: SpectraPure sells an excellent 90 gpd unit for about $120. Martin ___ the OrchidGuide Digest (OGD) orchids@orchidguide.com http://orchidguide.com/mailman/listinfo/orchids_orchidguide.com
[OGD] Blooming Phals
Title: Blooming Phals To quote Yin-Tung Wang, "The ideal day/night temperature range for spiking is 77F/68F. (snip) It takes three to six weeks for Phalaenopsis to spike under inductive temperatures. Well established clonal plants spike more uniformly. My research shows that during this period an adequate light level must be maintained or plants will not spike." At 12:00 PM +0100 3/16/06, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Message: 5 Date: Wed, 15 Mar 2006 22:56:28 -0600 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [OGD] chilling phals To: Orchids@orchidguide.com Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 quoting Iris: "The conventional wisdom is that if you chill most Phals for a period of two weeks, they will bloom 120 days later. According to this, if I want my Phals to bloom for our orchid show in mid-October, I have to put them on a chilling regimen around Memorial Day. Now there may be no natural chilling available at that time, unless we have some cool weather. I understand it has to go below 59 deg. F. I can't turn on the air conditioning in just one room. If it doesn't go below 59 outdoors, can I put my Phals in the refrigerator overnight (34-40)? Put ice cubes in the pot? Any other ideas?" Dr. Wang did some phal chilling tests. Indication of testing was a drop in night temps some 25 degrees F lower than daytime temps, as my poor mem recalls. Lower temp of 50-55 with daytime around 80. Chill time limited to around 12 hours in dark, then warm in daylight period. But your 34-40 seems a bit too cool. Doug -- ___ the OrchidGuide Digest (OGD) orchids@orchidguide.com http://orchidguide.com/mailman/listinfo/orchids_orchidguide.com
[OGD] Blooming Phalaenopsis
Charles Ufford said: >My small phal species often have problems getting buds, >and since I use warm water and keep the temps up, try to keep them in >a humid spot and don't overfeed, I'm assuming the water is to blame! I think you have the wrong diagnosis. Look to your culture. I suggest you read the papers of Yin Tung-Wang at: http://primera.tamu.edu/orchids/articles.htm STUDY THEM. And why warm water? As along as your water is above 60F it is OK for orchids. Martin ___ the OrchidGuide Digest (OGD) orchids@orchidguide.com http://orchidguide.com/mailman/listinfo/orchids_orchidguide.com
[OGD] Charles Ufford's Water
The level of fluoride does not seem to be excessive, especially if the water is alkaline. See http://www.schundler.com/florides.htm for more information. Adding calcium helps if the fluoride level is high. The amount of chlorine is negligible. It is a myth, often repeated, that chlorinated water is bad for orchids. I surmise that this comes from the perception that chlorination is an artificial process and anything artificial is bad. It is a practice of many excellent growers to spray their growing areas with 1 or 2% chlorine bleach, inevitably getting some on the plants. I did this regularly when I grew in a greenhouse. No ill effects. Some growers tell me that they actually spray their plants with 1% bleach to combat rot. Likewise sodium at this level is not a problem. When I grew in a greenhouse the sodium level started out at 15 ppm (mg/l) in 1981, and reached 37 ppm in 2000. I started to see leaf tip burn in some thin leafed orchids in 1990. Of course this does not mean that sodium was the cause. BTW, sea water contains about 33,000 ppm sodium. In his studies of the effect of salinity on Phalaenopsis hybrids, Yin-Tung Wang found that much higher concentrations of sodium were not detrimental. See http://primera.tamu.edu/orchids/paper3pg1.htm Of course hybrid Phalaenopsis are not thin leafed orchids. In a private communication to me he indicated that high levels of calcium help overcome the effects of sodium. pH is another issue. The EPA recommends raising the pH of municipal water to about 8 (if memory serves me correctly). This reduces the amount of dissolved lead and copper in drinking water. At least one overzealous community that I know of raised it to 9.3. They used potassium hydroxide, though I am told that many communities use soda ash. A pH of 9 can cause problems in absorption of trace minerals. So, Charles, what is your pH? In short, I don't believe that the quality of your water is the cause of the deterioration of your mounted plants. Mounted plants dry out more quickly than those in pots, and low humidity could aggravate this. Perhaps watering the mounts more often would help, as would placing a pad of sphagnum moss around the roots. Try misting them at least once a day. Martin ___ the OrchidGuide Digest (OGD) orchids@orchidguide.com http://orchidguide.com/mailman/listinfo/orchids_orchidguide.com
[OGD] Phragmipedium caudatum and wallisii
Can anyone tell me how to distinguish between these tow species? Martin ___ the OrchidGuide Digest (OGD) orchids@orchidguide.com http://orchidguide.com/mailman/listinfo/orchids_orchidguide.com
[OGD] Leaf Sheen
In OGD Vol 8 Issue 192, Barbara wrote: >Funny you should ask this question. I have been observing the same thing >and was about to write in about it. > >I can answer this as it relates to phalaenopsis. I recently purchased in >several phals that were obviously grown in the perfect conditions. The >leaves were big, deep green, glossy, with a tiny reddish tinge. They >compare favorably with others that I have that need to be moved to a >shadier location. My old ones have dull, faded leaves. I moved about a >dozen of them about 4 weeks ago to a shady place. They are glossing up >and the leaves are regaining their deep green color and the new growth >that is starting is like that of my "new" phals. Does glossing up mean that they are healthier? The reddish tinge on the plants you purchased usually indicates a higher light level. Hmmm. Martin ___ the OrchidGuide Digest (OGD) orchids@orchidguide.com http://orchidguide.com/mailman/listinfo/orchids_orchidguide.com
[OGD] Phragmopedium Differentiation
In OGD Vol 8, Issue 194, Stephen Manza kindly answered my question on the differentiation of P. caudatum and P. wallisii. They can be differentiated on the basis of color. I am curious as to what significant morphological differences there are (if any). Martin ___ the OrchidGuide Digest (OGD) orchids@orchidguide.com http://orchidguide.com/mailman/listinfo/orchids_orchidguide.com
[OGD] Chloramine and Chloramine T
Title: Chloramine and Chloramine T In a recent post, Peter Fowler used the terms Chloramine and Chloramine T interchangeably. Chloramine and Chloramine T are different chemical compounds. Chloramine is NH2Cl, a small mokecuke use for disinfecting water and is widely used by municipalities as a substitute for chlorine in water supplies. It is widely reported as being toxic to fish. For information on whether charcoal and RO units remove it see: http://www.reefkeeping.com/issues/2003-11/rhf/feature/index.php Chloramine T is N-Chloro-4-methylbenzenesulfonamide sodium salt and is a large molecule; as such it should be easily removed by an RO unit. It is also a disinfectant. "Chloramine T kills bacteria which infect and kill fish. Bacterial gill disease and infectious trematodes (FLUKES) are eradicated." See: http://www.pondrx.com/store/customer/product.php?productid=16 and: http://www.umesc.usgs.gov/aquatic/drug_research/chloramine-t.html In a brief search I can find no reference to using it in drinking water. Martin ___ the OrchidGuide Digest (OGD) orchids@orchidguide.com http://orchidguide.com/mailman/listinfo/orchids_orchidguide.com
[OGD] Spider Mites
Neil Paur wrote [EMAIL PROTECTED]: >I am having a major problem with Spider mites. I have tried Mavrik >and frankly I don't see that it does much. Since I have about 500 >plants in a greenhouse so spraying the individual underside of each >plant is not realistic. I use Mavrik in conjunction with Enstar II regularly and had good control of various bugs until I was blasted by mites last winter. The Phalaenopsis was particularly hit. Sandoz used to make a great miticide called Pentac which was designed to be used in combination with Mavrik and Enstar II but withdrew it from the market (I know not why.) I tried a product called Ortho Systemic Insect Killer which contains Orthene (insecticide) and Fenbutatin-oxide (miticide). It worked well. I used 3 applications a week apart, and another a month later. Martin ___ the OrchidGuide Digest (OGD) orchids@orchidguide.com http://orchidguide.com/mailman/listinfo/orchids_orchidguide.com
[OGD] Slugs, Snails and Caffeine
Title: Slugs, Snails and Caffeine The definitive study on the use of caffeine to rid orchids was published in Nature, 27 June, 2002 (www.nature.com/nature) The work was carried out by Robert G. Hollingsworth, John W. Armstrong and Earl Campbell, US Pacific Basin Agricultural Research Center USDA Agricultural Research Service PO Box 4459, Hilo, Hawaii 96720 USA e-mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To quote in part: We then carried out two greenhouse tests in which caffeine solutions were applied to the growing medium of potted orchids infested with Z. arboreus. In the first test, 1 and 2% solutions of caffeine were associated with 60 and 95% mortality, respectively (control mortality averaged 10%). In the second, larger test, a 2% solution of caffeine proved to be more effective in reducing the presence of snails than a solution of 0.195% metaldehyde, the commercial standard for orchid-snail treat- ment. Over 30 days, 5 snails were extracted from the medium treated with caffeine, whereas 43 and 35 snails were collected from media treated with water (control) and metaldehyde, respectively. For reference, strong coffee contains about 0.5% caffeine (see http://wilstar.com/caffeine.htm) Caffeine is, of course, water soluble, so I don't believe they would be at all effective. I make no representations of the actual effectiveness of the treatment, or its not being toxic to orchids but remember caffeine can be toxic to people if OD'd. A source of 'pure white crystalline powder' caffeine: http://www.aonevitamins.com/caffeine.htm ___ the OrchidGuide Digest (OGD) orchids@orchidguide.com http://orchidguide.com/mailman/listinfo/orchids_orchidguide.com
[OGD] Caffeine
OOps! In my post on this subject I said: Caffeine is, of course, water soluble, so I don't believe they would be at all effective. The sentence should have read: With regard to coffee grounds, caffeine is, of course, water soluble, so I don't believe they would be at all effective. Sorry. Martin ___ the OrchidGuide Digest (OGD) orchids@orchidguide.com http://orchidguide.com/mailman/listinfo/orchids_orchidguide.com
[OGD] Missing issues
I haven't receive an Orchidguide digest since Saturday, September 16. Is the list inactive or is my ISL blocking it again? Martin ___ the OrchidGuide Digest (OGD) orchids@orchidguide.com http://orchidguide.com/mailman/listinfo/orchids_orchidguide.com
[OGD] Phragmipedium Name Question.
The RHS Online lists: P. richteri = P. boissierianum X pearcei (natural hybrid) P. Taras = P. boisserianum X pearcei P. Franz Glanz = P richteri X bssseae So, what is P. (boissierianum X pearcei) X besseae? Presumably this cross was made with P. Taras. Thanks ___ the OrchidGuide Digest (OGD) orchids@orchidguide.com http://orchidguide.com/mailman/listinfo/orchids_orchidguide.com
[OGD] Phragmipedium Name Question
Doug: P. Taras is registered as boissierianum X pearcei, not ecuadorense. The RHS recognizes ecuadorense as a valid name (e.g. P. Ecua-Bess). If Tetzlaff actually used ecuadorense in his cross then it appears that he mis-registered it. Why not call the man-made cross P. Richteri (note the capital L)? This would be analogous to Cattleya Hardyana (C. warscewiczii X dowiana) vis-a-vis Cattleya hardyana? Iris, I tend to agree with you on P. Franz Glanz but I would like to hear from an accepted taxonomist. Guido, where are you when I need you Martin ___ the OrchidGuide Digest (OGD) orchids@orchidguide.com http://orchidguide.com/mailman/listinfo/orchids_orchidguide.com
[OGD] Membership Drop
In August, 2004 I posted the following: At 10:09 PM -0400 8/25/04, Martin Epstein wrote: >According to the forms 990 the AOS membership total receipts from >dues and assessments has remained fairly constant from 1998 to 2001. >This is in spite of regular increases in dues. I paid, for a two >year membership, $65 in 1998, $72 in 2000 and 2002, and $84 in 2004. >Over the same period pledges have dropped every year, from $860,000 >at the beginning of 1998 to $246,000 at the end of 2002. The liquid >assets have dropped from $7,200,000 to $3,100,000. while the fixed >assets (largely the new building, I presume) rose from $200,000 to >$6,100,000 over the same period of time. > >Building the new facility is clearly a strain on the organization. >Services have been cut and dues and fees have been raised. A less >ambitious undertaking would have been more prudent. > >The organization is still solvent but is sliding down hill from a >financial point of view. The rapid changes in information >technology have brought into question the nature of the future of >the society. The elected and managerial leadership must take a hard >look at where the organization is going and how it conducts its >business. > >After a long career in industry I spent a number of years doing pro >bono consulting work, largely in planning, for non-profit >organizations. In both venues I have seen organizations get in >trouble by running on momentum in a changing world. > >I have felt for a long time that the AOS leadership is not totally >in touch with the realities of the situation. From my point of view >they seem to have adopted a bunker mentality. Too bad. I suspect >that the real reason for passing over Howard Bronstein has to do >more with disagreements on the new building and the society's >financial situation than anything else. > > Martin Epstein Continued in the next message ___ the OrchidGuide Digest (OGD) orchids@orchidguide.com http://orchidguide.com/mailman/listinfo/orchids_orchidguide.com
[OGD] Membership Drop (Continued)
I received many responses to the previous post. In OGD 358, Bill Bergstrom said: At 3:01 PM -0400 8/28/04, Martin Epstein wrote: In response to Epstein's remarks..though well intended perhaps..not nearly complete enough to spark any more conflict in regards to the status of the AOS...Here is the message from Lee Cooke to me this morning..." Simply put, werr1,049 members better than where we stood a year ago. At August 1, wehad 26,394 members. We have seen a net gain it membership in 13 of the last 19 months. These are the facts" Lee Cooke. (Emphasis mine) To which I responded: I am delighted to hear this; I want the AOS to succeed. I believe that the new format of Orchids (which I like but some revile) is largely responsible for this. However, the long term trend has been down, not because the leadership of the AOS has done something wrong but because their response to changes in information technology is inadequate. The AOS no longer has a monopoly on information for the average orchid grower. As some have pointed out, this is not unique to the AOS; other organizations are feeling the same pinch. Though the short term trend may be re-assuring, I am far from convinced that the long term trend has been reversed. I still believe the size and scope of the new headquarters and greenhouse is ill advised. I don't believe we need a greenhouse to showcase orchids in southern Florida. Of course it could be used to propagate plants for sale in competition with the local growers; or it could be used for research on orchid culture to further knowledge in the field. Let's see what happens as funds get tighter. On a positive note here is a suggestion. I would be pleased to receive Orchids on the Internet and skip the hard copy. This would cut costs. Of course I would expect some reduction in my membership fee in return. On another note, the largest single expense listed in the latest form 990 filing is "Other" at $883,859 (total expenses $3,523,641). The next two largest expenses are Other Salaries and Wages (i.e, those for non-management personnel) at $788,106, and Printing and Publications at $723,826. "Other" is detailed in Statement 9 as awards, $32,489, Services and Professional Fees, $392,068, and "Miscellaneous" $459,302. Huh? I sure would like to know what that is. The "Miscellaneous" is higher than any previous number by far. In fact, it is higher that the Other line in any of the previous returns I could find. This lack of specificity is worrisome. It makes me distrust the management. Are they covering something up? I believe it is a duty of any non-profit organization tell their members how they are spending their money. Frankly, profit making corporations do a better job... Bill also said: No one is going to be making ANY decisions on their own for the AOS...It is all done with agreement between ALL twenty five of the Exec Board and Trustees. To which I replied: (This)...does not reassure me. Too many management organizations become like-minded, recruiting only those who agree with them, right or wrong, and that is exactly what I fear the AOS is doing. So, What's new? Martin___ the OrchidGuide Digest (OGD) orchids@orchidguide.com http://orchidguide.com/mailman/listinfo/orchids_orchidguide.com
[OGD] The decline of the AOS
The AOS is in decline. Membership is dropping, and they are spending more money than they are taking in. Although its demise is not imminent, it is gradually bleeding to death. I, for one, believe that a strong, national orchid society is a good thing, so it is worth doing something about it. How did we get into this position, and what can we do about it? A prime purpose of the AOS is the dissemination of information about orchids to growers at all levels. The AOS took their eye off the ball. Fifteen years ago easy access to the Internet made it possible for all growers to get information. Thus the need for the Bulletin, AKA Orchids diminished. Even the Orchid Digest has a lesser place in the world today. I urge to AOS to put Orchids on their web site, free to all members. Also, they should archive all prior issues to make them available to all. Further, members should have the option of receiving the magazine via the net and eschewing hard copy, a clear cost saving. There was a time that most orchid books were available only through the AOS, a very lucrative situation. Amazon.com has put an and to that. I don't even look at the AOS bookstore any more. Yes, I know about the AOS partnership with Amazon. Then there is the rest of the orchid emporium. I suspect that this is not a money maker and should be closed. I wonder how much obsolete inventory there is? How about the Taj Mahal? Perhaps we could sell some of the property. It's time to give up the delusion that this was a smart thing to do. I think the judging program is great, and the support the judges give to the shows of local orchid societies is generally outstanding, although I could do without some of the egos that show up from time to time. Actually I suspect that the judging program could run independently of the AOS. It would be nice to see the AOS generating a profit. They could use this to support conservation efforts, and it sure would be nice to see some meaningful research done in those greenhouses. Oh, well. I keep paying my dues but frankly I view it as a charitable contribution. Raise the dues one more time and I am out of here. Martin Epstein ___ the OrchidGuide Digest (OGD) orchids@orchidguide.com http://orchidguide.com/mailman/listinfo/orchids_orchidguide.com
[OGD] Missing Digests
A few days ago, Mark Sullivan (PainterArt) asked if I was missing Digests. I was. Comcast, my ISP provider, had the OGD IP address blocked. I have since called them and they have un-blocked it. They said that the reason it was blocked was that Spam was coming from their IP address. The person I spoke to said the cause was probably a virus, and that if it wasn't remedied it probably would be blocked again. Kenneth, please note. So if Comcast was/is your provider, that's why. Martin ___ the OrchidGuide Digest (OGD) orchids@orchidguide.com http://orchidguide.com/mailman/listinfo/orchids_orchidguide.com
