Re: 67 Mania infection complete ...

2002-03-30 Thread Bruce Dayton

Brother Bolo,

Welcome to the brotherhood!  The first time I hefted and played with a
67II I fell in love with it.  It does handle great, doesn't it!  Glad
that you had a good experience.


Brother Bruce



Friday, March 29, 2002, 1:22:28 AM, you wrote:

>snip<

B> Thanks all for the info emailed and questions answered, and to the
B> brotherhood for being loud enough that I took the time to look at
B> the 67 instead of ignoring it.  As I said previously, I've been
B> looking for about 2 years, and just didn't like the cost I was
B> seeing in MF gear ... and soon I will have a system that I can
B> actually own multiple lenses for w/out breaking my bank!

B> I have more questions about things, but I'll save them for later --
B> I need some sleep!

B> Thanks!
B> Bolo  -- Josef T. Burger
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Re: LX 250 bulk back w/winder

2002-03-30 Thread Paul Ewins

From: "Len Zedel" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

> Can anywone tell me if the bulk back for the LX needs to be driven by the
> motor drive or can you use the winder.

Motor drive only, same as the MX

> As well, I have happened upon two bulk backs.  One of them includes
> (separately) a little gear coupling device that transfers power from the
> motor drive to the take-up cartridge.  Is this unit an essential component
> of the bulk back?

This is for using the bulk back without a motor drive, i..e. it connects the
bulk back to the rapid wind lever. Absolutlely essential if you don't have
the motor drive.

The instructions for the MX bulk back are available as a PDF on the Pentax
USA site. As you can probably tell there isn't much difference between the
MX back and the LX back. Unfortunately the PDF is a bit hard to understand
in points because the compression has made the diagrams are almost
impossible to see - they seem to be 1 bit rather than grey scale.

I have the instrcutions for the LX bulk film magazine, so if you are really
pressed I could photocopy them and send them to you.

By the way, the acessories (cartrdiges and loader) are the same as the
Nikon, Canon, Minolta etc versions, only the actual camear backs are
different.

Paul Ewins
Melbourne, Australia.
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Re: subscribe pentax-discuss

2002-03-30 Thread T Rittenhouse

Ah, I wondered if anyone would fall for that? If he were not already
subscribed the message would not have appeared on the list.

Ciao,
Graywolf
http://pages.prodigy.net/graywolfphoto



- Original Message -
From: Johan Schoone <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Saturday, March 30, 2002 4:11 PM
Subject: Re: subscribe pentax-discuss


> "Jan van Wijk" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> > subscribe pentax-discuss
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I've put some surplus equipment on eBay

2002-03-30 Thread Peter Spiro

Two very nice bodies:  an MX in superb condition, an MZ-M; and three
lenses, a 28-70 f/4 AL, 50mm F f/1.7 autofocus, and a  28mm f/2.8 A.  The
latter is truly in mint condition.   
URL: http://cgi6.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewListedItems&userid=spirop&include=0&since=-1&sort=2&rows=25



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Re: TMAX 400 processing

2002-03-30 Thread tom

On 30 Mar 2002 at 22:42, William Robb wrote:

> - Original Message -
> From: J. C. O'Connell
> Subject: RE: TMAX 400 processing
> 
> 
> > Thanks for the tips on fixer time everyone.
> > I tried a piece of film in my *used* fixer and
> > it "cleared" ( translucent ) in about 4.5 minutes
> > but the pink tinge lasted till about 8 minutes.
> > Which is the correct "cleartime"??
> 
> 4.5 minutes is the clear time. Twice the clear time takes you
> past the pink tinglies, to there you go.

This is the clearing time with *used* sodium fixer. Unless you know exactly how much 
film went through the fixer, the test is pretty useless. If you know how much film 
went through the fixer, the test is 1/2 useless.

You need to do the test with fresh fix, or else you have no baseline. Fixer exhaustion 
is indicated when the clearing time doubles. I dump long before then.

Again, get some rapid fixer and save yourself a load of time.

tv
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Re: TMAX 400 processing

2002-03-30 Thread William Robb

- Original Message -
From: J. C. O'Connell
Subject: RE: TMAX 400 processing


> Thanks for the tips on fixer time everyone.
> I tried a piece of film in my *used* fixer and
> it "cleared" ( translucent ) in about 4.5 minutes
> but the pink tinge lasted till about 8 minutes.
> Which is the correct "cleartime"??

4.5 minutes is the clear time. Twice the clear time takes you
past the pink tinglies, to there you go.

William Robb
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Re: Microscope Adapter for ZX-5N QD

2002-03-30 Thread William Robb

- Original Message -
From: Paul Heinrich
Subject: Microscope Adapter for ZX-5N QD


> I would like to use it to take pictures through a
> Zeiss Standard 16 microscope with a trinocular
> head, of which the third is a phototude.  Can anyone
> reccommend an adapter that I can to mate the body
> of the ZX-5N with the microscope's phototube?


You want one of these. You will note, I got a good deal. Now, I
just have to find a phototube for my Leitz binocular
microscope..
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1341203267&r=
0&t=0&showTutorial=0&ed=1017406367&indexURL=0&rd=1


William Robb
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Re: Painting muslin

2002-03-30 Thread William Robb

Gettin lots of milage out of this post.
For the third time:
- Original Message -
From: Treena Harp
Subject: OT: Painting muslin


> To my great dismay, I find I didn't save the recent posts on
painting
> backdrops. My question is, do you need to prime the muslin
before painting
> it? And if so, what do you use?


I posted this to the list some time ago. It certainly applies to
what you want to do.

1) Buy a whole bunch of the biggest honkin' muslin you can find.
We buy it in 9 foot (well 3 meters, actually) whole bolts of
fabric. I think a bolt is 10 meters, and we will buy as many as
6 at a time.
2) Sew the suckers together to make as big a background as you
want. The biggest we have made is 3 bolts, which worked out to
26 feet x 29 feet finished size.
3) Get a couple of gallons of latex paint in the colour you want
as a base, and a couple of quarts each in a couple of
complementary colours. You also want a gallon of clear latex
emulsion.
4) Find an area large enough to spread your background out flat
on the ground. We use the park behind one of the partners'
house. You want to start this sort of thing mid morning, when
the weather forecast is for hot, dry conditions.
5) Now it's fun time. A couple of willing assistants are needed.
I prefer skimpily dressed female assistants because I am a pig.
Anyway, pour the base colour into a bucket and mix in about 1/3
of the clear emulsion and a couple of quarts of water. Mix well.
This will be rolled thickly onto 1/2 of the muslin.
6) In a couple of bottles with squirt nozzles (well rinsed dish
detergent bottles work well for this) mix up the complementary
colours, using the same proportions as given above. I realize
the instructions that I have given for mixing the paint is like
a recipe for Scottish baking, but it really doesn't matter a
whole bunch. You can't screw it up.
7) Roll a really heavy layer of base colour onto half the
muslin. Squirt random beads of the base colours onto the same
half. If you find you think you need to add either more water,
or more paint to the mix, then do so.
8) Fold the muslin in half, dry side to wet side.
9) Remember dropping acid and tye dying shirts? Have your
assistants take the muslin at each end and start twisting it up
as hard as they can. This is messy, and gets paint all over
anyone doing it.
Take your camera and photograph the ensuing wet paint T-Shirt
contest.
10) This is work, remember? After the assistants are covered in
paint, flatten out the muslin and do whatever touchups need to
be done. It is acceptable to use paint covered assistants for
touch ups. You may need to add come base coat here, perhaps some
more of one of the trim colours there. If you add paint, you
will want to repeat step 9.
11) After you have the muslin the way you want it, take your
assistants inside and wash them thoroughly.
By the time the assistants are dry, the muslin should be nearly
dry also. Drink beers and barbecue steaks until the muslin is
thoroughly dry and can be folded up. We prefer to bunch the
muslin into a stuff sack rather than folding it. The random
creases are less noticable.
Above all, this should be fun
Please see:
http://pug.komkon.org/01nov/2Rotties.html
for an example of a muslin made in this fashion. William Robb
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Re: First 6x7 experience and more questions

2002-03-30 Thread William Robb

- Original Message -
From: Mike Ignatiev
Subject: Re: First 6x7 experience and more questions


> Boston, MA, USA
> Since I am still evaluating the camera, I am now curios how
serious this
> problem may be and what is more practical: fixing it or return
this one and
> get another, without these symptoms.

Thats a crap shoot Mike. The film advance is an issue with the
6x7. They didn't get it fixed until the 67. I think the only way
to make sure you don't get one with a problem is to buy a new
one.
If you Ebayed it, maybe you can get the vendor to spring for the
repair.
I can't advise you on a repair depot in the USA, and I won't
advise you on how to spend your money.
I can pretty much guarantee that if you buy a 6x7 with a good
film advance, you will be sending it in eventually to fix the
film advance at some point though.

William Robb
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Re: graphire2

2002-03-30 Thread Alan Chan

Just bought one yesterday. However, I have found the motion of the pen was a 
bit slick on the screen. This is especially noticable when trying to draw 
fast. Is my PC too slow (P3-700), or it's the characteristic of USB?

regards,
Alan Chan

>My intention was to buy a new mouse for the computer my kids use for games,
>but I ended up donating my current mouse to them, and left the shop with
>something else. I discovered a Wacom Graphire2 wireless, battery free Mouse
>and pen set, it comes with a graphical tablet of 9x13cm work area,
>3.5x5inch. It connects into the USB port, £75 ($107). Nice toy, works well
>with PhotoShop.
>
>Any other people who use this kind of product?
>
>Frits Wüthrich


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Re: Schedule of DSLRs

2002-03-30 Thread Bruce Rubenstein

Yes, I know. They speak French in Canada;^ I meant it was interesting that the
D60 would be going on sale in the UK so far after it was available on this
continent.

--- William Robb <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> 
> Canada is NOT part of the United Kingdom.
Yahoo! Greetings - send holiday greetings for Easter, Passover
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Re: OT: Matching Colors in HTML

2002-03-30 Thread Shel Belinkoff

WOW!  Thanks so much.  I tried it and it works, although it's a bit
cumbersome compared to the EyeDropper program Geoff mentioned.  However,
it's nice to have more than one option, and I can see myself using both
at various times.

Jerome Daryl Coombs-Reyes wrote:
> 
> >  Is there a way to do it without Photoshop
> 
> Yes. For Windows user (not sure if that includes you, Shel) windows Paint
> does the exact thing that gabriel discussed in his email, and I'm about
> 99% sure that windows Paint comes with every Windows package (its under
> Accessories).
> 
> Click on the eyedropper, click on the desired color, go to Color on the
> Menu bar, then click on Edit Colors.   From there, click on define custom
> colors.  This last step will give you the RGB value.  I havent used it
> myself but I think that Gabriels email also gave a link to a site that
> will convert it to HEX for you (if necessary).

-- 
Shel Belinkoff
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://home.earthlink.net/~belinkoff/
http://home.earthlink.net/~belinkoff/darkroom-rentals/index.html
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Re: First 6x7 experience and more questions

2002-03-30 Thread Mike Ignatiev

Boston, MA, USA
Since I am still evaluating the camera, I am now curios how serious this
problem may be and what is more practical: fixing it or return this one and
get another, without these symptoms.

> Mike, where are you located?
>
> William Robb
>
> > > Unfortunately, it is all to common with the 6x7, especially if
> > > it has been abused with T-Max film.
> > > Think about getting the film transport overhauled. Eventually,
> > > the frames will start to overlap and you will be into some
> > > parts. Address the problem before it gets to that point.
> >
> > Any idea how much that may cost? Anyone besides Pentax can do it?
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OT: Painting muslin

2002-03-30 Thread Treena Harp

To my great dismay, I find I didn't save the recent posts on painting
backdrops. My question is, do you need to prime the muslin before painting
it? And if so, what do you use?
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Re: First 6x7 experience and more questions

2002-03-30 Thread William Robb

- Original Message -
From: Mike Ignatiev
Subject: Re: First 6x7 experience and more questions

Mike, where are you located?

William Robb



> > > Now the questions.
> > > I found the spacing between the frames varies from 3mm to
7mm
> > > on extremes. Is that normal?
> >
> > Unfortunately, it is all to common with the 6x7, especially
if
> > it has been abused with T-Max film.
> > Think about getting the film transport overhauled.
Eventually,
> > the frames will start to overlap and you will be into some
> > parts. Address the problem before it gets to that point.
>
> Any idea how much that may cost? Anyone besides Pentax can do
it?
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Re: OT: Matching Colors in HTML

2002-03-30 Thread Shel Belinkoff

Hi Geoff,

Yes, that helps a lot.  Although I have Photoshop 6.0, it doesn't run
worth a damn on this machine, nor does Paint Shop Pro.  Plus I love
little utilities that can handle one or two specific tasks simply and
easily, without eating up huge amounts of hard disk space or memory, and
leaving a myriad of files all over my disk. This is perfect. Thanks so
much!

[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> 
> There is a great freeware utility called EyeDropper:
> 
> You can find it at:
> 
> http://tucows.erols.com/preview/194554.html
> 
> or goto www.tucows.com-->Internet-->Web Building Tools-->Color Pickers.
> 
> Hope this helps.

-- 
Shel Belinkoff
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://home.earthlink.net/~belinkoff/
http://home.earthlink.net/~belinkoff/darkroom-rentals/index.html
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Re: First test sots with sigma APO adaptor on 70-300

2002-03-30 Thread Nitin Garg

hmm.. i gave my 70-300 DL as a gift to someone recently. This adapter
would make a nice think to pass on as well... I will keep my ebay under
watch for this :)


On Sat, Mar 30, 2002 at 08:48:13PM -0500, Brendan wrote:
> Ebay, :-) Thanks to Wendy.
> 
> --- Nitin Garg <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> > pretty cool! Where did u finally find the adapter ?
> > 
> > 
> > On Sat, Mar 30, 2002 at 08:26:26PM -0500, Brendan
> > wrote:
> > > These are scanned from the neg and only reduced in
> > > size, no croping or
> > > sharpening. All were hand held on agfa 160 xps
> > 1/350
> > > F11 from 25
> > > inches away, sunlight only. I'm impressed to say
> > the
> > > least, this is
> > > about 1:1.3 magnifacation and I'm sure if I had
> > time
> > > to setup on a
> > > tripod and take my time to focus I'd do much
> > better,
> > > especially if
> > > the bugger would stay still.
> > > 
> > >
> >
> http://webhome.idirect.com/~trini/flowers2/rockbug1.jpg
> > >
> >
> http://webhome.idirect.com/~trini/flowers2/rockbug2.jpg
> > >
> >
> http://webhome.idirect.com/~trini/flowers2/rockbug3.jpg
> > > 
> > >
> >
> __
> > 
> > > Find, Connect, Date! http://personals.yahoo.ca
> > > -
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> 
> 
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Re: OT: Matching Colors in HTML

2002-03-30 Thread Jerome Daryl Coombs-Reyes

>  Is there a way to do it without Photoshop

Yes. For Windows user (not sure if that includes you, Shel) windows Paint
does the exact thing that gabriel discussed in his email, and I'm about
99% sure that windows Paint comes with every Windows package (its under
Accessories).

Click on the eyedropper, click on the desired color, go to Color on the
Menu bar, then click on Edit Colors.   From there, click on define custom
colors.  This last step will give you the RGB value.  I havent used it
myself but I think that Gabriels email also gave a link to a site that
will convert it to HEX for you (if necessary).

HTH,
  jerome

___
Jerome D. Coombs-Reyes
PhD Candidate, ISyE, Georgia Tech
http://www.isye.gatech.edu/~jerome
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Re: Be Like Bill

2002-03-30 Thread Brendan

I missed that one!!

--- tom <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> I was inspired by Bill's sniping ability, so I
> decided it was time to practice:
> 
>
http://cgi6.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewBids&item=1341916411
> 
> tv
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LX 250 bulk back w/winder

2002-03-30 Thread Len Zedel

Can anywone tell me if the bulk back for the LX needs to be driven by the
motor drive or can you use the winder.

As well, I have happened upon two bulk backs.  One of them includes
(separately) a little gear coupling device that transfers power from the
motor drive to the take-up cartridge.  Is this unit an essential component
of the bulk back?

Many thanks,  Len Zedel.
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Re: TMAX 400 processing

2002-03-30 Thread Edmptx

In a message dated 3/30/2002 8:16:10 PM US Eastern Standard Time, 
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:


> T-Max is very hard to clear completely with sodium fixer. The
> pink stain is pretty tenacious. You will find yourself fixing
> for way longer than you really should to remove the stain with
> fixer.
> 

Fix as normal with regular or rapid fixer. Rinse in five changes of water. 
Rinse 30 seconds in photoflo with constant agitation. Rinse in Orbit Bath or 
equivalent clearing agent for 2-3 minutes with constant agitation. Wash 
normally. Result: no magenta stain. It works; I have used this method for 
years. Recommended in Industrial Photography Magazine a few months after 
T-Max became available. 

Ed Matthew
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Re: First test sots with sigma APO adaptor on 70-300

2002-03-30 Thread Brendan

The APO 70-300 F4-5.6, the adaptor is the APO one
designed for this
lens, it allows a bit better than 1:1 at 22 inches
close focus at
300mm ( according to manual ) . It is no longer made
since not many
people were interested in it but the Adaptor will work
as a 1.6
diopter closeup lens on any 58mm thread as well.

--- Joseph Tainter <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Nice shots. I have a couple of questions:
> 
> Which 70-300? I assume Sigma, but DL or APO?
> 
> What is the APO adapter? Is it the close-up lens
> designed for this lens?
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Joe
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Re: First 6x7 experience and more questions

2002-03-30 Thread Mike Ignatiev

> > Now the questions.
> > I found the spacing between the frames varies from 3mm to 7mm
> > on extremes. Is that normal?
> 
> Unfortunately, it is all to common with the 6x7, especially if
> it has been abused with T-Max film.
> Think about getting the film transport overhauled. Eventually,
> the frames will start to overlap and you will be into some
> parts. Address the problem before it gets to that point.

Any idea how much that may cost? Anyone besides Pentax can do it?
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Re: First test sots with sigma APO adaptor on 70-300

2002-03-30 Thread Brendan

Ebay, :-) Thanks to Wendy.

--- Nitin Garg <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> pretty cool! Where did u finally find the adapter ?
> 
> 
> On Sat, Mar 30, 2002 at 08:26:26PM -0500, Brendan
> wrote:
> > These are scanned from the neg and only reduced in
> > size, no croping or
> > sharpening. All were hand held on agfa 160 xps
> 1/350
> > F11 from 25
> > inches away, sunlight only. I'm impressed to say
> the
> > least, this is
> > about 1:1.3 magnifacation and I'm sure if I had
> time
> > to setup on a
> > tripod and take my time to focus I'd do much
> better,
> > especially if
> > the bugger would stay still.
> > 
> >
>
http://webhome.idirect.com/~trini/flowers2/rockbug1.jpg
> >
>
http://webhome.idirect.com/~trini/flowers2/rockbug2.jpg
> >
>
http://webhome.idirect.com/~trini/flowers2/rockbug3.jpg
> > 
> >
>
__
> 
> > Find, Connect, Date! http://personals.yahoo.ca
> > -
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Re: RE: Re: photolabs

2002-03-30 Thread Brendan

Well I can safely rule out rapid photo and moto photo,
Blacks is
stupid expensive and closed weekends here, I passed by
accent but they
seemed closed ( or at least I didn't see an open sign
), I really need
a lab that can do photo cds from the neg and half
decent prints for
proofing, after that Aaron gets it for any
enlargments. I mean I
myself rather not scan the negs my self ( me the
imfamous neg
destroyer ) and if like walmart or rapid photo they
have purple tints
to the first 3 prints and then decide to correct the
colour it's not
acceptable. You don't want to know how scared I was
after the lady bug
I shot was green in the print, I have to go tomorrow
and kindly ask
for a reprint.


--- David Brooks <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> I have only used them since i received the Y-M 
> as i don't know of anyone else in our area that 
> does 120.I have not done any enlargements with 
> them as of yet.
> Developing prices seem fair.
> Dave
> 
> 
> Pentax User
> Stouffville Ontario Canada
> http://home.ca.inter.net/brooksdj
> 
> Sign up today for your Free E-mail at:
> http://www.canoe.ca/CanoeMail 
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Re: First test sots with sigma APO adaptor on 70-300

2002-03-30 Thread Joseph Tainter

Nice shots. I have a couple of questions:

Which 70-300? I assume Sigma, but DL or APO?

What is the APO adapter? Is it the close-up lens designed for this lens?

Thanks,

Joe
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RE: TMAX 400 processing

2002-03-30 Thread J. C. O'Connell

Thanks for the tips on fixer time everyone.
I tried a piece of film in my *used* fixer and
it "cleared" ( translucent ) in about 4.5 minutes
but the pink tinge lasted till about 8 minutes.
Which is the correct "cleartime"??
JCO
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Re: Hey, you frequent Ebay SELLERS

2002-03-30 Thread Collin Brendemuehl

At 02:11 PM 3/30/02 -0500, you wrote:
>Date: Sat, 30 Mar 2002 12:03:24 -0600
>From: Tiger Moses <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Subject: Hey, you frequent Ebay SELLERS



YES!

SELLING:
Always start and end Sun. evening.
The later in the evening, the better.

BUYING:
Look for the best bargains mid-day Monday and Fri. evenings.

Collin

*
"Get over it."
  Dr. Laura

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K30/2.8

2002-03-30 Thread William Johnson

Hi,

Went to the local photo swap meet today and picked up one of these
jewels.  This is my first pentax prime wide angle besides my 35/3.5
super tak.  I'm kind of a moderate tele kind of guy, but I can't wait to
try it out!

William in Utah.
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RE: TMAX 400 processing

2002-03-30 Thread J. C. O'Connell

I just checked Kodak's web site and they 
recommend 5-10 minutes using REGULAR fixer
which is what I use. So 15 minutes wasnt
that far off. They also recommend using
twice the film clear time and checking it
at 5 minutes. maybe next time I will.
I'll probably use 10 minutes as my fix
time not 15. I will also switch to constant
agitation (roller) fixing as thats what they
recommend, I was using intermittant.
They also state if theres a light pink stain
to fix some more ( I knew that).

Other than checking clearing time, is there
another way to tell if fixer is exausted?
I reuse my fixer for many rolls.

JCO

> -Original Message-
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Shel Belinkoff
> Sent: Saturday, March 30, 2002 4:09 PM
> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Subject: Re: TMAX 400 processing
> 
> 
> No, don't do that.  You can use the same fixing time for similar
> emulsions.  Over fixing can degrade the image.  BTW, you can always
> check the various film spec sheets for recommended fixing time.  In many
> cases the information is on line.
> 
> "J. C. O'Connell" wrote:
> > 
> > Now I get it.
> > I usually cut off the leader when doing 35mm
> > so that will work (THANKS). But when I do
> > 120, I use all the film in the tank so I'll
> > stick with 15 min. to be safe.
> > JCO
> 
> -- 
> Shel Belinkoff
> mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> http://home.earthlink.net/~belinkoff/
> http://home.earthlink.net/~belinkoff/darkroom-rentals/index.html
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RE: TMAX 400 processing

2002-03-30 Thread tom

On 30 Mar 2002 at 15:58, J. C. O'Connell wrote:

> Now I get it.
> I usually cut off the leader when doing 35mm
> so that will work (THANKS). But when I do
> 120, I use all the film in the tank so I'll
> stick with 15 min. to be safe.

Like I said, you just need to do this *once*, not each time you develop...you just 
need to figure out the correct time for your fixer/film combo.

Honestly, if you get some rapid fixer and mix it at film strength you could probably 
use 5 minutes as your time and you'd be ok.

One more thing...there are 2 types of fixer: regular, and rapid. 15 minutes with rapid 
fixer is probably way too long...you might actually bleach the film.

The active ingredient in rapid fixer is ammonium thiosulphate. Regular fixer uses 
sodium thiosulphate.

tv
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Re: TMAX 400 processing

2002-03-30 Thread Shel Belinkoff

No, don't do that.  You can use the same fixing time for similar
emulsions.  Over fixing can degrade the image.  BTW, you can always
check the various film spec sheets for recommended fixing time.  In many
cases the information is on line.

"J. C. O'Connell" wrote:
> 
> Now I get it.
> I usually cut off the leader when doing 35mm
> so that will work (THANKS). But when I do
> 120, I use all the film in the tank so I'll
> stick with 15 min. to be safe.
> JCO

-- 
Shel Belinkoff
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://home.earthlink.net/~belinkoff/
http://home.earthlink.net/~belinkoff/darkroom-rentals/index.html
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RE: TMAX 400 processing

2002-03-30 Thread J. C. O'Connell

Now I get it.
I usually cut off the leader when doing 35mm
so that will work (THANKS). But when I do
120, I use all the film in the tank so I'll
stick with 15 min. to be safe.
JCO
> On 30 Mar 2002 at 15:37, J. C. O'Connell wrote:
> 
> > you mean, you have to pull the film out
> > of the tank/reel and check it? That sounds
> > like more of a hassle than just let it
> > fix a long time.
> 
> You should have some film tails lying around...the little left 
> over pieces you cut off the leader when you're loading reels. You 
> just need an inch or 2 of film.
> 
> Take that piece of film, dunk it in the fixer you plan to use, 
> and take a peek at your timer.  Swish it around a bit. In a 
> minute or 2 it'll turn clear. Take another peek at your 
> timer...that's your clearing time. Multiply your clearing time 
> times 2 to get your fixing time.
> 
> Some folks, me included, recommend 3 times the clearing time.
> 
> So, if you take your film tail, swish it around the fixer and it 
> clears out in 1 minute, then you'd use 2 minutes as your fixing 
> time, 3 if you do the 3x method.
> 
> You just need to do this once to figure out your fixing time, not 
> each time you develop. 
> 
> If you reuse your fixer you might want to do some further testing 
> to see how much your fixing times increase with each batch.
> 
> This varies a bit by film and fixer brand.
> 
> tv
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SV: Pentax WILL produce a digital SLR!

2002-03-30 Thread Jens Bladt

Doesn't Kyocera make a new MF Contax camera?
Jens

-Oprindelig meddelelse-
Fra: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]På vegne af Bob Rapp
Sendt: 30. marts 2002 20:56
Til: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Emne: Re: Pentax WILL produce a digital SLR!


- Original Message -
From: "Creature's Comfort"   For me, there doesn't seem to be any new 35mm, SLR camera that
> would satisfy me.  In fact, there are very few new cameras of any
> configuration or brand that I'd want to rush down to the store and buy.
> I might consider the MZ-S and a set of Limited lenses, but that still
> leaves an awful big gap to fill.  My guess is that I'd buy some more
> Leica gear and some MedFo equipment.
>
> The problem for me is that new 35mm SLR gear is auto focus, and loaded
> with a lot of features that I don't want to deal with, regardless of
> whether they can be "turned off" or not.  And many of the new cameras
> incorporate built-in winders and smaller view finders, or are
> substantially larger and bulkier than what I want in a 35mm camera.  I'd
> be in a real quandary.
>

Hmmm,
I'm looking at my new (to me) "SV" that I just purchased. It looks as
new and new can be. Gee, its all I really need - I'll put some film in it
and give it a go.
Where is my light meter?
Found it.

Bye

Bob
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RE: TMAX 400 processing

2002-03-30 Thread tom

On 30 Mar 2002 at 15:37, J. C. O'Connell wrote:

> you mean, you have to pull the film out
> of the tank/reel and check it? That sounds
> like more of a hassle than just let it
> fix a long time.

You should have some film tails lying around...the little left over pieces you cut off 
the leader when you're loading reels. You just need an inch or 2 of film.

Take that piece of film, dunk it in the fixer you plan to use, and take a peek at your 
timer.  Swish it around a bit. In a minute or 2 it'll turn clear. Take another peek at 
your 
timer...that's your clearing time. Multiply your clearing time times 2 to get your 
fixing time.

Some folks, me included, recommend 3 times the clearing time.

So, if you take your film tail, swish it around the fixer and it clears out in 1 
minute, then you'd use 2 minutes as your fixing time, 3 if you do the 3x method.

You just need to do this once to figure out your fixing time, not each time you 
develop. 

If you reuse your fixer you might want to do some further testing to see how much your 
fixing times increase with each batch.

This varies a bit by film and fixer brand.

tv
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SV: Why Didn't This Sell for More???

2002-03-30 Thread Jens Bladt

...you lucky b..!
Jens

-Oprindelig meddelelse-
Fra: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]På vegne af Graham Lyth
Sendt: 30. marts 2002 20:23
Til: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Emne: Re: Why Didn't This Sell for More???


Steve wrote:

> Look at this:
>
> I thought the body was worth approx. $400 & the lens
> was worth approx. $300?  I guess I'm way off on the
> lens, or else someone got a really good deal?

Not a bad deal. I recently got a better bargain on this:

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1332575016

I only really wanted the body. I've since sold (on eBay) the lens for GBP125
and the flash for GBP160, which means I got an 'as new' Z-1p body for GBP65
:-))


Graham
--
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RE: TMAX 400 processing

2002-03-30 Thread J. C. O'Connell

you mean, you have to pull the film out
of the tank/reel and check it? That sounds
like more of a hassle than just let it
fix a long time.
JCO


> 
> 
> > Have you tested the clearing time?
> > Fix for twice the clearing time.
> 
> No. Please explain.
> Thanks,
> JCO
> 
> It's a good old "Rule of Thumb", that film (all B/W film) must 
> remain in fix
> twice the time it takes the unexposed film (edges etc.) to get clear =
> transparent.
> Jens
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Re: Hey, you frequent Ebay SELLERS

2002-03-30 Thread Rfsindg

Tiger,

I think Bob (B?) had it most right.  Sunday night, 9-midnight central time or 
10-1AM eastern time zone and 7-10PM on the Left coast.

Regards,  Bob S.

[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

<< Has anyone determined a good day of the week or time of day to end 
auctions? >>
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Re: Hey, you frequent Ebay SELLERS

2002-03-30 Thread Mark Roberts

Seems there's a lot of agreement on 6:30 Pacific (9:30 Eastern) on Sunday
evening.

"Steve Larson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

>Pacific Standard Time ;)
>9:30 is to late, all the sickos like me who get up at an ungodly hour are
>already
>sawing logs.
>Steve Larson
>Redondo Beach, California
>- Original Message -
>From: "Mark Roberts" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Sent: Saturday, March 30, 2002 11:22 AM
>Subject: Re: Hey, you frequent Ebay SELLERS
>
>
>> What time zone? :)
>> I usually time mine to end on a weekend evening (usually Sunday) at 9:30
>p.m.
>> Eastern time (so it's 6:30 p.m. West coast time).
>>
>> "Steve Larson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>>
>> >Sunday evening at 6:30PM
>> >Steve Larson
>> >Redondo Beach, California
>> >- Original Message -
>> >From: "Tiger Moses" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>> >To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>> >Sent: Saturday, March 30, 2002 10:03 AM
>> >Subject: Hey, you frequent Ebay SELLERS
>> >
>> >
>> >> Has anyone determined a good day of the week or time of day to end
>> >auctions?
>> >>
>> >> Got some stuff gettign ready to unload and was wondering when to post
>(as
>> >> that affects ending time),
>> >> and was wondering if anyone had learned anything!
>> >> -
>> >> This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List.  To unsubscribe,
>> >> go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to
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>>
>> --
>> Mark Roberts
>> www.robertstech.com
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-- 
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Re: Ebay snipers might appreciate this one.

2002-03-30 Thread Ann Sanfedele

We will have to change your nickname from "wheatfield" to
"fast-fingers" now 
ann

William Robb wrote:
> 
> Compare the time ended to the time the last bid (mine) was
> placed.
> HAR!!!
> 
> William Robb
> 
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1341203267&r=
> 0&t=0&showTutorial=0&ed=1017406367&indexURL=0&rd=1
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Re: Hey, you frequent Ebay SELLERS

2002-03-30 Thread Ann Sanfedele

Well, I try to list _most_ things so they end up closing late in the
evening on Sundays, E.S.T.  but I have to admit I scatter them
throughout the week and haven't noticed any real difference between
those that end on Sunday or during the week in the evening.  I think
MOnday nights during football season is good for my clothing sales to
other women :)  and Thursday evenings seem ok also.  The trouble with
following
the Sunday evening trend is that if everyone is on ebay at the same time
it gets
a little slow.  

And I use "buy it now" a lot so the timing isn't so critical there.

annsan

[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> 
> In a message dated 3/30/2002 1:07:15 PM Eastern Standard Time,
> [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
> 
> > Has anyone determined a good day of the week or time of day to end auctions?
> >
> 
>Best day to sell on e-Bay: Sunday preferably 8 to 10PM eastern time
>Best day to buy: Wednesday early evening 6:30 to 8PM eastern.
> 
>  Just my personal observations as a
> buyer/seller
>  Bob
> -
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subscribe pentax-discuss

2002-03-30 Thread Jan van Wijk

subscribe pentax-discuss
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Jan van Wijk;   www.fsys.demon.nl
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Re: Pentax WILL produce a digital SLR!

2002-03-30 Thread Bob Rapp

- Original Message -
From: "Creature's Comfort"   For me, there doesn't seem to be any new 35mm, SLR camera that
> would satisfy me.  In fact, there are very few new cameras of any
> configuration or brand that I'd want to rush down to the store and buy.
> I might consider the MZ-S and a set of Limited lenses, but that still
> leaves an awful big gap to fill.  My guess is that I'd buy some more
> Leica gear and some MedFo equipment.
>
> The problem for me is that new 35mm SLR gear is auto focus, and loaded
> with a lot of features that I don't want to deal with, regardless of
> whether they can be "turned off" or not.  And many of the new cameras
> incorporate built-in winders and smaller view finders, or are
> substantially larger and bulkier than what I want in a 35mm camera.  I'd
> be in a real quandary.
>

Hmmm,
I'm looking at my new (to me) "SV" that I just purchased. It looks as
new and new can be. Gee, its all I really need - I'll put some film in it
and give it a go.
Where is my light meter?
Found it.

Bye

Bob
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Re: Hey, you frequent Ebay SELLERS

2002-03-30 Thread Bgpentax

In a message dated 3/30/2002 1:07:15 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:


> Has anyone determined a good day of the week or time of day to end auctions?
> 

   Best day to sell on e-Bay: Sunday preferably 8 to 10PM eastern time
   Best day to buy: Wednesday early evening 6:30 to 8PM eastern.

 Just my personal observations as a 
buyer/seller
 Bob
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Re: ???: Soligor 90/2,5 Macro

2002-03-30 Thread Bojidar Dimitrov

Hi All,

I was away for a few days, so sorry for the alte reply.

>From the pictures and descriptions that I received, the lens seems to be
the same as the Vivitar 90/2,8 Macro.  The thing about this one, is that
it has the "A" aperture setting.

I still have not had time to test out the lens, but I will compare it
with my A100/2,8 Macro, and will report here.

Cheers and thanks to all,
Boz
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SV: M42 to K mount question

2002-03-30 Thread Jens Bladt

Hi
Hi Dave
I'm quite sure that the meter is normally not affected by the mount used.
Provided that the lens/camera works correctly. The "movement", as you
describe it, is only affected by the way (the speed) the changes of the
light, that hits the meter - the changing light at the scene or by the way
you turn the dials on the K1000. Are you sure that the aperture simulator is
activated properly by the lens/aperture?
Jens

-Oprindelig meddelelse-
Fra: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]På vegne af David Brooks
Sendt: 30. marts 2002 20:19
Til: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Emne: M42 to K mount question


Hi all.I tried out my new adaptor
yesterday,using a Super Tak 200 f4 on the
K1000.One thing i noticed was the light meter
was noticably slower moving with the 200 that
if the 35-80 or 80-200 was attached.
Is this a common thing.
Mind you the weather has been really cloudy and
windy lately.

Thanks
Dave


Pentax User
Stouffville Ontario Canada
http://home.ca.inter.net/brooksdj

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RE: Looking for UK hook-ups!

2002-03-30 Thread Frits J. Wüthrich

I think you got it mixed up a bit. We are not across the Atlantic, you are!

Frits Wüthrich


Tiger Moses wrote:
> Ok, my Pentax cousins across the Atlantic,
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Re: Kentucky Fried Chicken (was)Re: Pentax WILL produce adigital SLR!

2002-03-30 Thread Aaron Reynolds

On Thursday, March 28, 2002, at 03:05  PM, William Johnson wrote:

> So, I guess in a way, both could be right.  Certainly, the first place
> to serve what would be called Kentucky Fried Chicken would be the
> original restaurant in Corbin.  But the first restaurant to be called
> Kentucky Fried Chicken (and I think the first franchisee) is in Salt
> Lake City.
>
> Anyway, that's the way I heard it.

[photo.net response]
Who cares?  KFC sucks.
[/photo.net response]

:)

-Aaron
who just couldn't help himself
and who craves the Colonel's chicken fortnightly
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Re: Any experience with Fuji NPC?

2002-03-30 Thread Aaron Reynolds

On Thursday, March 28, 2002, at 02:32  PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

> I've never shot it at anything other than 160 unfortunately but I have 
> heard people state 100 or 125 maximum rating.

I've always thought that people who say that don't really know how to 
use their meter to its fullest and are getting smacked by the film's 
relatively narrow exposure latitude.  This stuff ain't Kodak Max: you 
actually have to be well within the exposure ballpark to make a 
printable neg.

If I am using my Sekonic, I meter at 160 for NPS and NPC.  If I am using 
the LX and paying attention, I set the meter to 160.  If I'm setting a 
camera to 'auto' and running around grabbing shots, I'll give it an 
extra half stop to be safe. ;)

-Aaron
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Re: Any experience with Fuji NPC?

2002-03-30 Thread Aaron Reynolds

On Thursday, March 28, 2002, at 02:16  PM, Delano Mireles wrote:

> Hi all,
>
> Just picked a 5 pack of this film to try out but I'm just curious if 
> anyone
> has had any experiences they would like to share.  I'll be taking my 
> kids
> out for some pictures with the Bluebonnets so I was looking for a little
> more contrast/pop than what I've experienced with NPS.

Well, that's exactly what you've got.  It has the smoothness of NPS, 
with a bunch more saturation, especially in the reds, though skin tones 
still look good -- not as natural as NPS, mind you, but still good.

I was very pleased with some detail photos of a fire-engine red truck 
with blue sky reflected in its side view mirror that I shot on NPC.

-Aaron
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Re: Hey, you frequent Ebay SELLERS

2002-03-30 Thread Steve Larson

Pacific Standard Time ;)
9:30 is to late, all the sickos like me who get up at an ungodly hour are
already
sawing logs.
Steve Larson
Redondo Beach, California
- Original Message -
From: "Mark Roberts" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Saturday, March 30, 2002 11:22 AM
Subject: Re: Hey, you frequent Ebay SELLERS


> What time zone? :)
> I usually time mine to end on a weekend evening (usually Sunday) at 9:30
p.m.
> Eastern time (so it's 6:30 p.m. West coast time).
>
> "Steve Larson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> >Sunday evening at 6:30PM
> >Steve Larson
> >Redondo Beach, California
> >- Original Message -
> >From: "Tiger Moses" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> >To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> >Sent: Saturday, March 30, 2002 10:03 AM
> >Subject: Hey, you frequent Ebay SELLERS
> >
> >
> >> Has anyone determined a good day of the week or time of day to end
> >auctions?
> >>
> >> Got some stuff gettign ready to unload and was wondering when to post
(as
> >> that affects ending time),
> >> and was wondering if anyone had learned anything!
> >> -
> >> This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List.  To unsubscribe,
> >> go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to
> >> visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
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>
> --
> Mark Roberts
> www.robertstech.com
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RE: TMAX 400 processing

2002-03-30 Thread Jens Bladt

> Have you tested the clearing time?
> Fix for twice the clearing time.

No. Please explain.
Thanks,
JCO

It's a good old "Rule of Thumb", that film (all B/W film) must remain in fix
twice the time it takes the unexposed film (edges etc.) to get clear =
transparent.
Jens
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Re: Results of "Zapped" Mail

2002-03-30 Thread Bob Walkden

Hi,

gee thanks, Shel. Just when I'm expecting 67 rolls back from Kodak...

---

 Bob  

mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]

Saturday, March 30, 2002, 7:23:30 PM, you wrote:

> From the current Smithsonian Magazine... 

> Sending slides and other "meltables" through the mail:
> 
>http://www.smithsonianmag.si.edu/smithsonian/issues02/apr02/images/lines_slides_jpg.html
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Re[2]: Hey, you frequent Ebay SELLERS

2002-03-30 Thread Bob Walkden

Hi,

> This study done by a Professor of Marketing the University at Buffalo:
> [...]
> talks about "herd-behavior bias"

why aren't I surprised that somebody from Buffalo is interested in
herd behaviour? 

---

 Bob  

mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
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Re: Why Didn't This Sell for More???

2002-03-30 Thread Graham Lyth

Steve wrote:

> Look at this:
>
> I thought the body was worth approx. $400 & the lens
> was worth approx. $300?  I guess I'm way off on the
> lens, or else someone got a really good deal?

Not a bad deal. I recently got a better bargain on this:

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1332575016

I only really wanted the body. I've since sold (on eBay) the lens for GBP125
and the flash for GBP160, which means I got an 'as new' Z-1p body for GBP65
:-))


Graham
--
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
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Results of "Zapped" Mail

2002-03-30 Thread Shel Belinkoff

>From the current Smithsonian Magazine... 

Sending slides and other "meltables" through the mail:
http://www.smithsonianmag.si.edu/smithsonian/issues02/apr02/images/lines_slides_jpg.html

Shel Belinkoff
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
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M42 to K mount question

2002-03-30 Thread David Brooks

Hi all.I tried out my new adaptor 
yesterday,using a Super Tak 200 f4 on the 
K1000.One thing i noticed was the light meter 
was noticably slower moving with the 200 that 
if the 35-80 or 80-200 was attached.
Is this a common thing.
Mind you the weather has been really cloudy and 
windy lately.

Thanks
Dave


Pentax User
Stouffville Ontario Canada
http://home.ca.inter.net/brooksdj

Sign up today for your Free E-mail at: http://www.canoe.ca/CanoeMail 
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Re: Hey, you frequent Ebay SELLERS

2002-03-30 Thread Mark Roberts

What time zone? :)
I usually time mine to end on a weekend evening (usually Sunday) at 9:30 p.m.
Eastern time (so it's 6:30 p.m. West coast time).

"Steve Larson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

>Sunday evening at 6:30PM
>Steve Larson
>Redondo Beach, California
>- Original Message -
>From: "Tiger Moses" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Sent: Saturday, March 30, 2002 10:03 AM
>Subject: Hey, you frequent Ebay SELLERS
>
>
>> Has anyone determined a good day of the week or time of day to end
>auctions?
>>
>> Got some stuff gettign ready to unload and was wondering when to post (as
>> that affects ending time),
>> and was wondering if anyone had learned anything!
>> -
>> This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List.  To unsubscribe,
>> go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to
>> visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
>-
>This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List.  To unsubscribe,
>go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to
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-- 
Mark Roberts
www.robertstech.com
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Re: Hey, you frequent Ebay SELLERS

2002-03-30 Thread Graham Lyth

Tiger Moses wrote:

> Has anyone determined a good day of the week or time of day to end
auctions?

I usually try to do a 10 day auction starting on Thursday evening, and
therefore ending on Sunday evening when people are likely to be at home and
may be prone to a bit of sniping ;-)


Graham
--
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Re: Hey, you frequent Ebay SELLERS

2002-03-30 Thread Chris Webster

Tiger Moses wrote:
> 
> Has anyone determined a good day of the week or time of day to end auctions?
> 
> Got some stuff gettign ready to unload and was wondering when to post (as
> that affects ending time),
> and was wondering if anyone had learned anything!

I thought that I had once saw a study that indicated that stuff that closed on
weekends sold higher, but darned if I could remember where or find a link to
it... but, if true, that would confirm what the other posters have said.

This study done by a Professor of Marketing the University at Buffalo:
http://www.buffalo.edu/reporter/vol32/vol32n24/briefly.html
(scroll down, it is the 6th headline on the page)

talks about "herd-behavior bias", which is described as a form of online peer
pressure.

-- 

--Chris Webster, P.E.   www.speakeasy.org/~cwebster
--
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Re: Kodak's problems

2002-03-30 Thread Mark Roberts

Paul Stenquist <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

>But if thinning out the product line worries you in regard to Kodak, it
>must terrify you in regard to all the rest. Kodak is still the only
>company that provides films of all varieties in large format, infrared
>film, high contrast BW transparency film, and numerous other products.
>Where are the other guys? 
>Paul

Very true. I was (selfishly) considering the only films that I use on a regular
basis.

-- 
Mark Roberts
www.robertstech.com
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RE: OT: Matching Colors in HTML

2002-03-30 Thread J. C. O'Connell

Then get paint shop pro ( look for version 4) 
free off the web, it has the same eyedropper function
and a pallette to pick from. It gives values for
RGB in decimal so you'll have to convert to hex.
(excel has that function)
JCO
> -Original Message-
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Shel Belinkoff
> Sent: Saturday, March 30, 2002 1:52 PM
> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Subject: Re: OT: Matching Colors in HTML
> 
> 
> Several answers have suggested that this is possible in Photoshop.  Is
> there a way to do it without Photoshop.  I don't have access to the
> program now, and, I suppose, others might not, either.
> 
> gabriel bovino wrote:
> > 
> > I think if you click on the eyedropper in photoshop and then 
> click on the
> > portion of the drawing you want to match it will give you 
> the RGB value.
> > Then enter in the RGB value in this website and it will convert 
> it to HEX.
> > 
> > Have fun!
> > 
> > http://www.lne.com/rgb.html
> > 
> > Gabe
> > 
> > - Original Message -
> 
> > > I'd like to make and HTML frame for a photo with a border 
> that matches a
> > > color in the JPEG.  Is there a program that will allow me to put the
> > > cursor on the color I want to match which will then give me 
> the hex code
> > > for that color?  Is there some other way to match a particular color?
> 
> -- 
> Shel Belinkoff
> mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> http://home.earthlink.net/~belinkoff/
> http://home.earthlink.net/~belinkoff/darkroom-rentals/index.html
> -
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Re: OT: Matching Colors in HTML

2002-03-30 Thread Shel Belinkoff

Several answers have suggested that this is possible in Photoshop.  Is
there a way to do it without Photoshop.  I don't have access to the
program now, and, I suppose, others might not, either.

gabriel bovino wrote:
> 
> I think if you click on the eyedropper in photoshop and then click on the
> portion of the drawing you want to match it will give you the RGB value.
> Then enter in the RGB value in this website and it will convert it to HEX.
> 
> Have fun!
> 
> http://www.lne.com/rgb.html
> 
> Gabe
> 
> - Original Message -

> > I'd like to make and HTML frame for a photo with a border that matches a
> > color in the JPEG.  Is there a program that will allow me to put the
> > cursor on the color I want to match which will then give me the hex code
> > for that color?  Is there some other way to match a particular color?

-- 
Shel Belinkoff
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://home.earthlink.net/~belinkoff/
http://home.earthlink.net/~belinkoff/darkroom-rentals/index.html
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RE: TMAX 400 processing

2002-03-30 Thread J. C. O'Connell

> -Original Message-
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of William Robb
> Sent: Saturday, March 30, 2002 7:40 AM
> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Subject: Re: TMAX 400 processing
> 
> 
> - Original Message -
> From: J. C. O'Connell
> Subject: TMAX 400 processing
> 
> If you start using an ammonium based fixer, you can cut your
> fixing times to about 5 minutes. I think 15 minutes is too long
> for Kodak fixer.

> Have you tested the clearing time?
> Fix for twice the clearing time.

No. Please explain.
Thanks,
JCO
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Re: Hey, you frequent Ebay SELLERS

2002-03-30 Thread Angel Ramos

Tiger:
I always list my auctions in a way that they will close on a Sunday night.
Angel
Arecibo, Puerto Rico

Tiger Moses wrote:

> Has anyone determined a good day of the week or time of day to end 
> auctions?
>
> Got some stuff gettign ready to unload and was wondering when to post 
> (as that affects ending time),
> and was wondering if anyone had learned anything!
> -
> This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List.  To unsubscribe,
> go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to
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Re: Hey, you frequent Ebay SELLERS

2002-03-30 Thread Steve Larson

Sunday evening at 6:30PM
Steve Larson
Redondo Beach, California
- Original Message -
From: "Tiger Moses" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Saturday, March 30, 2002 10:03 AM
Subject: Hey, you frequent Ebay SELLERS


> Has anyone determined a good day of the week or time of day to end
auctions?
>
> Got some stuff gettign ready to unload and was wondering when to post (as
> that affects ending time),
> and was wondering if anyone had learned anything!
> -
> This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List.  To unsubscribe,
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Hey, you frequent Ebay SELLERS

2002-03-30 Thread Tiger Moses

Has anyone determined a good day of the week or time of day to end auctions?

Got some stuff gettign ready to unload and was wondering when to post (as 
that affects ending time),
and was wondering if anyone had learned anything!
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Be Like Bill

2002-03-30 Thread tom

I was inspired by Bill's sniping ability, so I decided it was time to practice:

http://cgi6.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewBids&item=1341916411

tv
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Re: SMC-M 150/3.5, Vivitar 135/2.8

2002-03-30 Thread Ryan Smith

Thanks for all the replies. The M 150 is sold, but the Vivitar 135mm is
still available.

Ryan Smith

- Original Message -
From: "Ryan Smith" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Friday, 29 March, 2002 12:35
Subject: FSoT: SMC-M 150/3.5, Vivitar 135/2.8


> For sale or trade:
>
> SMC Pentax-M 150mm f3.5. A sharp lens which seems to be somewhat rare. I'm
> selling this because I'm mainly using Spotmatics now, and I just bought an
> SMCT 150/4. Only defect is minor paint loss around the front of the
built-in
> hood and on the aperture ring. Glass is perfect, focus and aperture rings
> operate smoothly. Includes both caps, rear is Asahi, front is generic. I
> would like to trade this for one of the following screw-mount lenses:
>
> SMC Takumar 28/3.5 w/ hood
> or
> Super or SMC Takumar 105/2.8 w/ hood
>
> I don't really care about the cosmetic condition of these lenses, as long
as
> the glass is clean and everything works.
>
> Or I sell for it US$100 plus shipping ($5 in the US).
>
> Also I have a BGN-condition Auto Vivitar 135/2.8, M42 mount. Glass has no
> scratches, fungus, etc., but some minor internal dust. No caps. US$15 plus
> shipping.
>
> If interested in either of these items please contact me directly at
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
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Re: OT: Matching Colors in HTML

2002-03-30 Thread gabriel bovino

I think if you click on the eyedropper in photoshop and then click on the
portion of the drawing you want to match it will give you the RGB value.
Then enter in the RGB value in this website and it will convert it to HEX.

Have fun!

http://www.lne.com/rgb.html

Gabe

- Original Message -
From: "Evan Hanson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Friday, March 29, 2002 8:31 PM
Subject: Re: OT: Matching Colors in HTML


> Shel please let me know if you find a program to do this.  I was trying to
do something just like this and had to use trial and error and my hex chart.
>
> Evan
>
> home.earthlink.net/~enhanson
>
>
>
> -Original Message-
> From: Shel Belinkoff <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: Pentax List <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Date: Fri, 29 Mar 2002 14:40:42 -0800
> Subject: OT: Matching Colors in HTML
>
> I'd like to make and HTML frame for a photo with a border that matches a
> color in the JPEG.  Is there a program that will allow me to put the
> cursor on the color I want to match which will then give me the hex code
> for that color?  Is there some other way to match a particular color?
> --
> Shel Belinkoff
> mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> http://home.earthlink.net/~belinkoff/
> http://home.earthlink.net/~belinkoff/darkroom-rentals/index.html
> -
> This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List.  To unsubscribe,
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Re: Why Didn't This Sell for More???

2002-03-30 Thread tom

On 30 Mar 2002 at 7:51, Steve Pearson wrote:

> Can you tell me a little more about the condition of
> the cameras?  

One is well-used, and has a cracked lcd. It works fine, but looks worn.

One is practically new, and is currently getting a check-up at Pentax.

> How old are they?  

The beat-up one was bought used about 3 years ago.

The newer one was bought new 2 years ago.

> I assume every
> function works on them?  

Yes.

> Does it come with a manual? 

Yes.

> What is the Grip Strap?  

It's the accessory you have to have. ;)

It's like a battery grip, except it's only function is to improve the ergonomics. The 
strap goes around you hand. It's a nice combo, though the beat up one is missing the 
actual strap.

I personally only ever used the grip.

> Why do you have 2 and why are
> you selling them?  

Now you're getting personal...I'm a full-time photographer, and have replaced them 
with 2 MZ-S's.

> Would it be shipping from within
> the US?  

Yes.

tv
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Re: Why Didn't This Sell for More???

2002-03-30 Thread Steve Pearson

Can you tell me a little more about the condition of
the cameras?  How old are they?  I assume every
function works on them?  Does it come with a manual? 
What is the Grip Strap?  Why do you have 2 and why are
you selling them?  Would it be shipping from within
the US?  

Thanks very much for your offer.


--- tom <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> On 29 Mar 2002 at 20:21, Steve Pearson wrote:
> > 
> > Just curious.  Too bad I was on the road
> travelling
> > when the auction ended.  I need a PZ 1P!!!
> 
> I've got 2 for sale, and they both have grips.
> 
> tv
> -
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Re: Why Didn't This Sell for More???

2002-03-30 Thread Bruce Rubenstein

A reasonable rule of thumb, for items that you can still buy new, is %25 - %30
off new discount price. Bundles (camera and lens) also go for less than if the
two items were sold seperatly. That lens would have had a hard time selling for
much more than $150. Mid, and high end Pentax AF lenses do not hold their value
very well. I saw a PZ-1, 70-200/2.8, 28-70/2.8 and some other stuff in one
auction only hit a price of about $1500; a small fraction of what it would cost
to replace.
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Re: Re[2]: Pentax WILL produce a digital SLR! (long rant)

2002-03-30 Thread Bruce Rubenstein

I remembered your unfortunate incident, and its outcome, and that's what
prompted my question.


--- Bob Walkden <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> as many of the people here know, I was in almost exactly this position
> a couple of years ago after most of my equipment was burgled. ...
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