Re: escaping viruses from the list with netscape 4.6

2002-04-30 Thread Frantisek Vlcek

AR>  From the pasted text, it looks like a Pentax rep monitoring the list has
AR> a nasty little virus.

Damn! It sent the wrong file. I was hoping to glean out the file about
the upcoming digital and LX2 camera, but the damn thing didn't work
properly, just sending some sales blurb 

;-))

Best regards,
   Frantisek Vlcek
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cheap 80-200/3.5

2002-04-30 Thread Frantisek Vlcek

SP>> I have just bought Revuenon 80-200/3.8 with K-mount for my Z1P. I thought I

This posting reminded me that I saw some cheap "Olympia" branded
80-200/3.5 lenses, it's a nice speed, and they were nice out of metal,
BUT from the pics these lenses are all the same, Vivitar sold them too
under their name with 3.8 speed, Revuenon did too with 3.8, some sold
them with 3.5 ... just don't fall for the 3.5 version, IMHO it's all
the same lens which is in fact a f/4... it might be nice lens though,
if cheap enough, as it was well built.

Good light,
 Frantisek Vlcek
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Re: Deal of the century?!

2002-04-30 Thread Frantisek Vlcek

In a local shop here, several years ago, there were two Pentax lenses
for sale, stoshed away in the back of the glass cabinet, as the shop
was moving. Guess what they were?

A* 1.4/85
A* 1.8/135

Guess what they went for?

200$
300$

And no, I was not the lucky fellow... ;-((
The lucky fellow who bought the 1.4/85 didn't even know it's real
price, nor the real price of the 1.8/135, he just liked more the
shorter...

And yes, this is not made up, it really happened.

Good light,
   Frantisek Vlcek
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Re: ME Super (et al) Shutter Speed Buttons

2002-04-30 Thread Frantisek Vlcek

Monday, April 29, 2002, 10:15:05 PM, Fred wrote:
>> If you want to try this, though, be ~very~ careful - use only a
>> ~tiny~ drop of super glue, and, after applying the drop, hold the

I certainly wouldn't do this to my LX ;-)

But if you want to do it to the SuperA, you might look around hobby/RC
models shops for a better superglue (cyanoacrylate glue) than the one
in supermarkets. There are formulations which aren't as quick-flowing
so it won't flow all over the innards, there are also formulations
which cure not in seconds but minutes, etc... Shop around

Good light,
   Frantisek Vlcek
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LX serial 5334xxx?

2002-04-30 Thread Alan Chan

Does anyone know the rough manufacturing date? Thx!

regards,
Alan Chan


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Re: Downloading the PUG

2002-04-30 Thread Nitin Garg

There is an equivalent of wget for windows systems. You basically drop
the URL http://pug.komkon.org/02may/ (for this months thing) into it.
Ask it to fetch everything from it recursively but not to span domains
or ascend directory structure (so it wont goto
http://pug.komkon.org/anyonther_link_not_starting_with_02may ). You can
make it accept only html and jpg files (or only jpg files if you dont
want to see the rest of picture info) etc.

Having said that there is a program for your needs, I dont remember what
it was called :) I think there are a couple of them. I used it long time
ago while doing internship and being forced to use windows based
machine. It was pretty good and free (or was there a trial period?)
although still not as versatile as wget :)

Ofcourse there is a windows executable version of wget itself :)(see
http://www.interlog.com/~tcharron/wgetwin.html )  But it runs only from
the command prompt (ie no gui unless it changed since i last used it on
windows 2 yrs ago) which some find bothersome while others desire.

There is another program called cURL (again has windows version as well
-- http://curl.haxx.se/ ) which has even more features than wget. I
havent used if much tho.

cheers,
nitin


On Wed, May 01, 2002 at 03:43:34PM +1000, Anthony Farr wrote:
> Dear Pugmeisters,
> 
> Is there an easy way to download the whole PUG without clicking through each
> picture individually.  I thought it would be nice if I could start the
> process and then go to lunch, or go and play with my 18 month old boy, while
> the pics downloaded automatically.  Then I could review the lot as a
> slide-show at my leisure.
> 
> If such a process exposes the PUG to image harvesters, then how about being
> able to request the pics as an email with attachments, or split up into
> several emails if attachment sizes or mailbox capacities are a problem.
> 
> Just a suggestion.
> 
> Regards,
> Anthony Farr
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Downloading the PUG

2002-04-30 Thread Anthony Farr

Dear Pugmeisters,

Is there an easy way to download the whole PUG without clicking through each
picture individually.  I thought it would be nice if I could start the
process and then go to lunch, or go and play with my 18 month old boy, while
the pics downloaded automatically.  Then I could review the lot as a
slide-show at my leisure.

If such a process exposes the PUG to image harvesters, then how about being
able to request the pics as an email with attachments, or split up into
several emails if attachment sizes or mailbox capacities are a problem.

Just a suggestion.

Regards,
Anthony Farr
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Re: Cut and sleeved slides and scanning film strips (was: saving slides with water drops on them)

2002-04-30 Thread Nitin Garg

On Tue, Apr 30, 2002 at 10:30:35PM -0600, William Robb wrote:
> 
> >
> > ok, yet another (dumb) question: which is the base side ?
> 
> The side that doesn't have the emulsion on it. If you are
> looking at the slide, and the image is the right way around, you
> are looking at the base.
> 

cool! :) Thanks for all the helpful info.


cheers,
nitin
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Re: Cut and sleeved slides and scanning film strips (was: saving slides with water drops on them)

2002-04-30 Thread William Robb

- Original Message -
From: Nitin Garg
Subject: Re: Cut and sleeved slides and scanning film strips
(was: saving slides with water drops on them)



>
> ok, yet another (dumb) question: which is the base side ?

The side that doesn't have the emulsion on it. If you are
looking at the slide, and the image is the right way around, you
are looking at the base.

William Robb
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Re: Super Multi Coated Tak. 105 F2.8

2002-04-30 Thread andre

>Jim Fellows wrote:
>>
>>  Is this the same as the K version optically?  I have a chance to buy one
>>  very cheaply that is in great shape.  I have been looking for a nice
>>  portrait lens in the 100mm range, and if this one is a good as I hear I will
>  > pick it up.

Paul:
>I'm not sure if it's identical to the K, but it's a great lens in its
>own right. One of my favorites.
>Paul


Most SMC Takumar reached K-mount unchanged.  A few, 17/4, 28/3.5, 
35/2 and 300/4 were optically modified (Camerart july '75) - for the 
wide-angles, maybe to take advantage of the mount's greater diameter. 
Also, the K lenses have multicoating between the elements of a group, 
unlike the SMCT.  So, the 105mm is... almost identical.  SMCT are a 
bit smaller than SMCK.

Note that you can ask a technician to fix on the SMCT lens a K-mount 
adapter with a screw so that the lens will lock on a K body, but it 
will still have to be used at real aperture for metering (very 
precise way of metering by the way).

The rumor says the Takumar and the famous Nikon were the best 105mm 
lenses around.  I don't think it's been said in a Minolta or an 
Olympus discussion group though...  This summer I'll organize a 
little match between a Canon 100mm 2.8 (old FD) and the SMCT.

Andre
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Re: Cut and sleeved slides and scanning film strips (was: saving slides with water drops on them)

2002-04-30 Thread Nitin Garg

On Tue, Apr 30, 2002 at 09:58:48PM -0600, William Robb wrote:
> >
> > If by mistake one gets a fingerprint on a slide (havent done
> that yet
> > but i do it to prints all the time) is there any better way to
> "clean"
> > it than wiping with a soft microfiber cloth ?
> 
> I haven't found one yet. Anything that lands on the base side
> may be removable (including the aformentioned water drop).
> 

ok, yet another (dumb) question: which is the base side ?
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Re: Cut and sleeved slides and scanning film strips (was: saving slides with water drops on them)

2002-04-30 Thread William Robb

- Original Message -
From: Nitin Garg
Subject: Re: Cut and sleeved slides and scanning film strips
(was: saving slides with water drops on them)


> Another slide question :)
>
> If by mistake one gets a fingerprint on a slide (havent done
that yet
> but i do it to prints all the time) is there any better way to
"clean"
> it than wiping with a soft microfiber cloth ?

I haven't found one yet. Anything that lands on the base side
may be removable (including the aformentioned water drop).

William Robb
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Re: saving slides with water drops on them.

2002-04-30 Thread William Robb

- Original Message -
From: Nitin Garg
Subject: Re: saving slides with water drops on them.


> I am sure you have a fix for world's hunger and peace problem
too ;)

It takes a larger candle is all.
WW
>
>
> On Tue, Apr 30, 2002 at 06:23:08PM -0700, Bill D. Casselberry
wrote:
> >  Nitin wrote:
> >
> > > An offending water droplet landed right on my slide today
(thankfully
> > > only a shot of architecture here so can take it again
sometime). How do
> > > I get rid of the spot it formed there ?
> >
> > Holding the slide about a half inch above a candle flame
will
> > fix that offensive water spot for good.
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Re: Super Multi Coated Tak. 105 F2.8

2002-04-30 Thread James Adams

Go get it Jim,
I agree with Paul, it is a great lens. It's also my oldest and by far my
favourite portrait lens.
James
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Re: Super Multi Coated Tak. 105 F2.8

2002-04-30 Thread Paul Stenquist

I'm not sure if it's identical to the K, but it's a great lens in its
own right. One of my favorites.
Paul

Jim Fellows wrote:
> 
> Is this the same as the K version optically?  I have a chance to buy one
> very cheaply that is in great shape.  I have been looking for a nice
> portrait lens in the 100mm range, and if this one is a good as I hear I will
> pick it up.
> 
> Jim Fellows
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Re: 645 vs 645n( or 645nii)?

2002-04-30 Thread Stan Halpin

I don't know of any trouble spots with the original 645. Like any mechanical
toy, they wear with time and use, so newer is better I suppose.
a. The 645 meter is more primitive than the 645n or 645nii. But it is very
good.
b. The original 645 allowed exposure compensation (via a push button on the
top), but only in full stops. There was a wheel thingie that you turn to
select S (= Single) or C (= Continuous). An option was available to have a
factory modification made wherein the wheel thingie becomes a second control
for exposure compensation, now in half stops. When I bought my (modified)
645 from KEH, it cost about $100 more than an unmodified with the same
rating. I don't know if the newer 645n and nii have adopted more
sophisticated exposure comp systems, but I would expect so.
c. I never liked the push button exposure control on my ME Supers. I have no
problem with the buttons on the 645. Go figure. I think it is because the
645 buttons are further apart and not so prone to having both pressed at the
same time by a fat finger.
d. When the 645n first came out, I thought that the data imprinting on the
film was the best thing since sliced bread, and I would have gone for the
645n just for that if the price was at all doable for me. But, since then I
have acquired an MZ-S with similar imprinting and I find that I very seldom
look at the data except to use the roll sequence number to quickly put film
in the order that it was shot.
e. I occasionally use autofocus with my MZ-S, and did with the PZ-1p before
it, but mostly I use older lenses. If I bought a 645n or nii, I would stil
use the manual lenses which are available used at reasonable price. So the
autofocus would be irrelevant for a few years until a large market develops
for FA645 lenses.
f. In my ideal world I would have an assistant to carry stuff for me and
hand me the right things at the right time, one who wouldn't knock over
tripods to which is attached an expensive camera and lens. But meanwhile, I
struggle with the 645 limitation that it is a pain to load the film and it
is hard to carry all that many pre-loaded film inserts and so one really
does need to be more conservative in film use. [See item (b) above. I cannot
imagine using the C setting if I had it!] [Actually, I do have it, as I have
a second 645 body of the unmodified version. And I still cannot imagine
using the C setting.]

Summary: the 645 will be less expensive, but it will have been used to a
greater or lesser extent with unknowable remaining lifespan. It won't have
autofocus, but you may not care. It won't have quite as good a meter, but it
is quite good anyway. It probably has less capable exposure compensation,
but then you can always go to full manual and do as much or as little comp
as you like.

Stan


> From: "Mark Erickson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Date: Tue, 30 Apr 2002 12:40:31 -0400
> To: "pentax-discuss" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: 645 vs 645n( or 645nii)?
> 
> So, I'm pricing out MF options.  Looks like I can score a 645 body in nice
> condition with insert for something like $700 from KEH.  A 645n body with
> insert is closer to, say, $1400.
> 
> I like the 645n user interface better, but autofocus seems pretty optional
> for a landscape camera.  Is there anything about the original 645 that is
> bad or problematic?  Any good reason to stay away?
> 
> --Mark
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Re: saving slides with water drops on them.

2002-04-30 Thread Nitin Garg

I am sure you have a fix for world's hunger and peace problem too ;)


On Tue, Apr 30, 2002 at 06:23:08PM -0700, Bill D. Casselberry wrote:
>  Nitin wrote:
>  
> > An offending water droplet landed right on my slide today (thankfully
> > only a shot of architecture here so can take it again sometime). How do
> > I get rid of the spot it formed there ?
>  
>   Holding the slide about a half inch above a candle flame will
>   fix that offensive water spot for good.
> 
>   
> -
> Bill D. Casselberry ; Photography on the Oregon Coast
> 
> http://www.orednet.org/~bcasselb
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> -
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Re: Cut and sleeved slides and scanning film strips (was: saving slides with water drops on them)

2002-04-30 Thread Nitin Garg

Another slide question :)

If by mistake one gets a fingerprint on a slide (havent done that yet
but i do it to prints all the time) is there any better way to "clean"
it than wiping with a soft microfiber cloth ?

thanks,
nitin

On Tue, Apr 30, 2002 at 09:22:47PM -0400, Christian Skofteland wrote:
> I just "discovered" that cut and sleeved slides are a much better option for
> scanning.  I've had major dust issues and with no slide mounts it makes it
> easier to clean the strip before it goes in the scanner.  I also think that
> the film strip is flatter and gets a better scan.
> 
> I use an HP photosmart scsi scanner.  It's old and honestly I don't know
> what model it is (I think S20 but the scanner software says S10/S20).  It
> gives me many options as far as film, transparency, or print format is
> concerned.  The past few days it has been handling "color slide strips" at
> 2400dpi beautifully.
> 
> I hope this answers your question about "teaching" your scanner.
> 
> Christian Skofteland
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> 
> 
> - Original Message -
> From: "William Robb" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> 
> 
> > Cut and sleeved is one option. I learned to crop a wee bit loose
> > to make up for the cutoff from slide mounts and printers. I
> > think if you are scanning them, cut and sleeved might be better.
> > It would be intersting to know what a good slide mount's window
> > size is.
> >
> > As an aside question, can the HP S10 be taught to scan reversal
> > film strips correctly?
> >
> > William Robb
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Re: saving slides with water drops on them.

2002-04-30 Thread Bill D. Casselberry

 Nitin wrote:
 
> An offending water droplet landed right on my slide today (thankfully
> only a shot of architecture here so can take it again sometime). How do
> I get rid of the spot it formed there ?
 
Holding the slide about a half inch above a candle flame will
fix that offensive water spot for good.


-
Bill D. Casselberry ; Photography on the Oregon Coast

http://www.orednet.org/~bcasselb
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
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Cut and sleeved slides and scanning film strips (was: saving slides with water drops on them)

2002-04-30 Thread Christian Skofteland

I just "discovered" that cut and sleeved slides are a much better option for
scanning.  I've had major dust issues and with no slide mounts it makes it
easier to clean the strip before it goes in the scanner.  I also think that
the film strip is flatter and gets a better scan.

I use an HP photosmart scsi scanner.  It's old and honestly I don't know
what model it is (I think S20 but the scanner software says S10/S20).  It
gives me many options as far as film, transparency, or print format is
concerned.  The past few days it has been handling "color slide strips" at
2400dpi beautifully.

I hope this answers your question about "teaching" your scanner.

Christian Skofteland
[EMAIL PROTECTED]


- Original Message -
From: "William Robb" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>


> Cut and sleeved is one option. I learned to crop a wee bit loose
> to make up for the cutoff from slide mounts and printers. I
> think if you are scanning them, cut and sleeved might be better.
> It would be intersting to know what a good slide mount's window
> size is.
>
> As an aside question, can the HP S10 be taught to scan reversal
> film strips correctly?
>
> William Robb
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Re: saving slides with water drops on them.

2002-04-30 Thread Nitin Garg

On Tue, Apr 30, 2002 at 06:50:40PM -0600, William Robb wrote:
> >
> > An offending water droplet landed right on my slide today
> (thankfully
> > only a shot of architecture here so can take it again
> sometime). How do
> > I get rid of the spot it formed there ?
> 
> It is there forever. Nothing will remove it.

yikes! I will be more careful with my slides in future :)

> >
> > What about those that do their own mounting ? Or should I
> start just
> > getting them cut and sleeved ?
> 
> Cut and sleeved is one option. I learned to crop a wee bit loose
> to make up for the cutoff from slide mounts and printers. I
> think if you are scanning them, cut and sleeved might be better.
> It would be intersting to know what a good slide mount's window
> size is.

for the present I do scan them. I do intend to get myself a slide
projector sometime in future so will need mounted slides then. How easy
(and more importantly clean) is it to mount the slides yourself ?

> 
> As an aside question, can the HP S10 be taught to scan reversal
> film strips correctly?
> 

you reminded me of this page:
http://www.virtualtraveller.org/epson2450.htm which i had found when
someone (david?) recommended the above scanner to jco. This talks about
getting good scans from xp2 by treating it as color slide. I wonder if
something similar can be done to the scanner you mention ? This is just
a wild theory tho. I dont even know what the HP S10 looks like :)
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Re: LX motor drive - question (fwd)

2002-04-30 Thread andre

>ii) It appears that the LX winder battery packs expire and require
>surgery.  I would love to get one (even one that needs surgery).  Would
>anyone be interested in trading for one of the T handle AA battery packs?
>
>Len.

I'd do it if you want, Len.  You mean the LX motor pack...

Andre
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Re: saving slides with water drops on them.

2002-04-30 Thread William Robb

- Original Message -
From: Nitin Garg
Subject: saving slides with water drops on them.


> Hi,
>
> An offending water droplet landed right on my slide today
(thankfully
> only a shot of architecture here so can take it again
sometime). How do
> I get rid of the spot it formed there ?

It is there forever. Nothing will remove it.
>
> I also noticed the slide mounting eats away into a portion of
the
> shot all around. Is this standard or are there places that
dont do this ?

I am pretty sure that is normal. The only time I see the edge of
a slide is if the good people as Kodachrome mismount it.

> What about those that do their own mounting ? Or should I
start just
> getting them cut and sleeved ?

Cut and sleeved is one option. I learned to crop a wee bit loose
to make up for the cutoff from slide mounts and printers. I
think if you are scanning them, cut and sleeved might be better.
It would be intersting to know what a good slide mount's window
size is.

As an aside question, can the HP S10 be taught to scan reversal
film strips correctly?

William Robb

>
> thanks,
> nitin
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saving slides with water drops on them.

2002-04-30 Thread Nitin Garg

Hi,

An offending water droplet landed right on my slide today (thankfully
only a shot of architecture here so can take it again sometime). How do
I get rid of the spot it formed there ?

I also noticed the slide mounting eats away into a portion of the
shot all around. Is this standard or are there places that dont do this ? 
What about those that do their own mounting ? Or should I start just
getting them cut and sleeved ?

thanks,
nitin
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Re: LX motor drive - question (fwd)

2002-04-30 Thread Len Zedel

Okay, I've been watching this thread on batteries for a while and I do
have some comments/questions.

i) We use ni-cad batteries in a particularly nasty industrial application
(underwater instrumentation) and we found that the panasonic ni-cads are
real survivors.  If I was looking to replace ni-cad batteries I would
recommend panasonic for preference.

ii) It appears that the LX winder battery packs expire and require
surgery.  I would love to get one (even one that needs surgery).  Would
anyone be interested in trading for one of the T handle AA battery packs?

Len.





> 
> -- Forwarded message --
> Date: Sat, 27 Apr 2002 16:58:01 +0200
> From: Frantisek Vlcek <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Subject: LX motor drive - question
> 
> Hi,
>I might get an LX drive soon, but alas, it lacks the charger. I
>have few questions wrt it, please:
> 
>1) how hard the chargers are to get, either from Pentax /or else
>/ (any for sale :) ?
>2) how do they work - it's a dumb charger I presume, without any
>electronics inside to watch the battery...
>3) how hard to get are the "T" aa Grip Ms... any for sale :) ?
>
>
> Good light,
>  Frantisek Vlcek
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RE: LX motor drive - question

2002-04-30 Thread Rob Studdert

On 30 Apr 2002 at 9:37, HUDERER Bernd wrote:

> Hi Rob,
> 
> AA cells have a diameter of 14mm. And also 1/3AA cells have a diameter of
> 14mm.
> A cells have a diameter of 17mm -> 1/3A have also 17mm.
> 
> And here's the point I don't understand which cells you used for your
> repair. You wrote 225mA capacity. But when I searched in the Internet for
> "1/3AA 225mAh" I found nothing. There are only cells with 110mAh ( some
> dealers have special memory cells for computer mainboards with up to 180 mAh but
> maybe these can't deliever bigger currents ) or cells 1/3A 225mAh but these are
> 17x17mm. Can it be that you used the 1/3A ones ? Is there enough space in the
> pack for 2 times 3mm more ? I recently bought a used one and it has several dead
> cells. I had it once open and IIRC there is only space for cells which could be
> a little bit longer but not with bigger diameter ?!? I already ordered new cells
> with 110mAh for my pack, so for me the decision is done. As I'm not a
> professional, I think the capacity will be enough for my tasks.

Hi Bernd,

The cells that I used were definitely Sanyo 1/3AA NiCd cells of 225mAh 
capacity. The AA cells have a diameter of 14.5mm and were very tight to fit in 
the charger cavities. The wholesaler from which I bought the cells no longer 
has the 225mAh cells for sale (they were in the Sanyo High Capacity Cadnica E 
Series), now I can only find the Cadnica N-110AA 1/3AA 110mAh cells, maybe the 
225mAh cells are out of production?

Cheers,

Rob Studdert
HURSTVILLE AUSTRALIA
Tel +61-2-9554-4110
UTC(GMT)  +10 Hours
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://members.ozemail.com.au/~distudio/publications.html
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Re: Canadian Ebayers

2002-04-30 Thread Rob Studdert

On 30 Apr 2002 at 11:47, T Rittenhouse wrote:

> I used to think, wow, these guys are making a fortune on shipping when I saw a
> $15-20 ssh. Now, I know better.

In most part the packing is free for me, however I will charge the buyer should 
I have to buy packing to suite the item. I have to attend the PO every day in 
any case and I even have the postal staff trained to put aside suitable empty 
boxes for me. Whilst I can appreciate that some sellers (particularly those who 
are making a business out of it) need to add a few bucks for their time some 
are out and out crooks.

Take for instance this example, I was the highest bidder for an LX screen at 
auction, the seller was B&H NY. The screen closed at US$15.50 and they wanted 
to charge US$26.00 to ship it to me via USPS Air. After a volley of emails I 
managed to negotiate the shipping cost down to US$16 and when I received the 
package it was post marked US$3.50.

Given the volume of mail that they move per day and the obvious volume 
discounts that would apply on packaging and post handling you can see full well 
that there was a big chunk of raw profit in there?

Cheers,

Rob Studdert
HURSTVILLE AUSTRALIA
Tel +61-2-9554-4110
UTC(GMT)  +10 Hours
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://members.ozemail.com.au/~distudio/publications.html
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RE: Pre-eBay pre-Friday Pentax sale :-)

2002-04-30 Thread Rob Studdert

On 30 Apr 2002 at 10:41, HUDERER Bernd wrote:

> > Pentax SMC A* 100mm/2.8 Macro lens   $625
> 
> Is it really A* ? Would explain the price. Never heard about such type.

There was an error in the listing, it's an A lens, it's a reasonable price, 
want to buy it?

Rob Studdert
HURSTVILLE AUSTRALIA
Tel +61-2-9554-4110
UTC(GMT)  +10 Hours
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://members.ozemail.com.au/~distudio/publications.html
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RE: LX motor drive - question

2002-04-30 Thread Rob Studdert

On 30 Apr 2002 at 12:26, Rupprecht, James R wrote:

> Hey Rob...
> 
> Being the lazy type when possible, I have always had my pack assembled by
> the battery seller. I initially used NiCd cells for my packs. What I found
> was that using the Sanyo 225 mah cells (I think they are same ones you use) my
> battery vendor would first shrink the cell columns, and then shrink the two
> columns together to complete the pack. With that approach, the new cells fit
> rather tightly... in fact, there were times when I had to remove the outer
> shrink just to get them to fit at all.

Hi James,

Thanks for the info, I might try to track down a source of 1/3AA NiMH cells :-)

Cheers,

Rob Studdert
HURSTVILLE AUSTRALIA
Tel +61-2-9554-4110
UTC(GMT)  +10 Hours
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://members.ozemail.com.au/~distudio/publications.html
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Re: Deal of the century?!

2002-04-30 Thread William Kane

I was watching it, but I already have one in K-mount, so didn't really need
the screw mount . . .

IB

Ken Archer wrote:

> This one has to go to work occasionally. ;-(
>
> On Monday 29 April 2002 07:30 pm, ?ukasz Kacperczyk wrote:
> > Even I would have bought it!
> > Damn. Still - it lasted two hours. How come noone of you Ebay addicts
> > got it? ;)
> > Lukasz
> --
> Kenneth Archer, San Antonio, Texas
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
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Re: Canadian Ebayers

2002-04-30 Thread Cotty

Once again Shel comes up with a more considered, a more erudite, a more 
user friendly interpretation of exactly what I am thinking about S and H, 
or P and P as we say in the UK.

What the man said!

Cotty

eBay ID 'macads'


>I agree that charging a lot extra for "handling" may be considered to be
>usurious, but Tom's situation may be different than yours or mine.  If I
>paid $1.50 for a box, 25-cents for packing peanuts, amortized the tape
>needed to seal the package, factored in my time @ $X.00 per hour,
>figured in specific automobile expenses, the cost of the toner used to
>print the address on the label, the cost for the included "Thank You"
>note which I often send along with the item, the time required to enter
>feedback, shoe leather, and all the subtle hidden costs, I might want to
>charge more than I do for shipping and handling.  But I consider that
>part of the service I provide my customers, part of my cost of doing
>business, part of a strategy for repeat business or referrals, and to
>develop a strong, positive feedback, which can help sell my goods.


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http://www.macads.co.uk
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TOTALLY OT (but fricking hilarious)

2002-04-30 Thread David Chang-Sang

I belong to both PDML and LUG (even though I don't own any L*ica equipment
anymore) but someone recently sent this little diddy (sung to the tune of
Madonna's "Like A Virgin") to the LUG -  enjoy..

Cheers,
Dave


Leica Virgin:

I made it through autofocus
Somehow I made it through
Didn't know how bad I was
Until I found Solms

I was tragic automagic
I'd used a crutch, plastic too much
But you made me shoot
Yeah you made me shoot
Shiny and new

Chorus:

Leica virgin
Focused for the very first time
Leica virgin
When your shutter clicks
In my hand

Gonna give you all my cash, Ernst
My accounts are fading fast
Been saving it all for you
'Cause only Leica can last

You're so fine and you're mine
Make me focus, yeah you make me expose
Oh your novelty wore out
Yeah, your novelty wore out
What was strange and new

 (chorus)

 Oooh, oooh, oooh

 You're so fine and you're mine
I'll be in debt 'till the end of time
'Cause you made me feel
Yeah, you made me feel
I've got a red dot to hide

 (chorus)

 Leica virgin, ooh, ooh
Leica virgin
Feels so good in hand
When I hold you, and my heart beats, and I love you


Oh, oh, oh, oh, oh, oh, oh, oh, oh
Ooh, Ernst
Can't you hear my shutter click
For the very first time?
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Free film/Cheap film

2002-04-30 Thread Cotty

>Everybody in the UK buy Amateur Photographer this week.
>
>You get a free roll of 36 exp Kodak EliteChrome Extra Colour.
>
>7dayshop sells it for £2.15 plus p&p
>Jessops selss 10 packs for £22.50 ish (less 10%) ie just over £20
>AP costs 1.95 and gives you a free film
>
>I am going to buy 10 copies this week!

Yeah, but Rob, you can surely only read one copy of AP once?? Or maybe 
you keep a few caged birds??

;-)

Cotty

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Blood & Champagne

2002-04-30 Thread Bob Walkden

Hi,

a new biography of Bob Capa has recently been published with this
title. I've bought it and started reading it today. So far so good.

There's a BBC radio piece here about it:
http://www.bbc.co.uk/radio4/arts/frontrow/frontrow_20020425.shtml
with archive recordings of Henri Cartier-Bresson, Cornel Capa and his
big brother Bob.

While reading the book on the tube this evening I thought how
surprising it is that his life hasn't yet been turned into a film
(unless you count Hitchcock's "Rear Window" - the Jimmy Stewart
character is supposed to be based on Capa), and I was wandering who
would be suitable to play Capa.

Anyway, according to a search I've just done on the global electronic
brain a film exists, or is due to exist, also called 'Blood and
Champagne', starring and produced by Pierce Brosnan.

Does anybody know if this film has ever been made?

Several websites list it as having been made before Brosnan's excellent
'Tailor of Panama', but I've never heard of the film. Straight to video?
Straight to the bin? Never got made?

Cheers,

Bob
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May PUG available

2002-04-30 Thread A.v.Kirschten

Hello all,

due to bad weather I am back on time to open the May PUG myself.

Thanks Bill for taking care about the loose ends during my rainy holiday.
:))

Thanks for submitting of course.

Cheers
Adelheid
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RE: Free film/Cheap film

2002-04-30 Thread Rob Brigham

You must have got a duff batch then.  There is very little difference
between this and E100VS normally.  The difference is so marginal that
EBX (extra colour) is actually a much better buy.  Besides, this version
dont need to be kept in a fridge.

I use EBX interchangeably with Velvia, when I want 100 ASA I use EBX,
otherwise Velvia.  EBX has the same saturation, and very good grain for
a 100 speed film.  EBX leans slightly more on the magenta side, whereas
Vevia leans to the greens in comparison.

> -Original Message-
> From: Patrick White [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]
> Sent: 30 April 2002 17:18
> To: pentaxdiscuss
> Subject: Re: Free film/Cheap film
> 
> 
> "Rob Brigham" writes:
> >Everybody in the UK buy Amateur Photographer this week.
> >You get a free roll of 36 exp Kodak EliteChrome Extra Colour.
> >I am going to buy 10 copies this week!
> 
>   If this is the same consumer-variety extra color 
> Elitechrome that Kodak
> sells over here in the US, you might want to develop the 
> first roll before
> investing in 10 magazines :-)
>   I tried some last summer and found it had a very 
> grainy, almost old
> autochrome look, whereas the professional variety of this film has
> practically no grain in comparison.
> 
> hope that helps,
> patbob ([EMAIL PROTECTED])
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Re: good deal on a non MLU 6x7?

2002-04-30 Thread Len Paris

Thanks Bill.  I needed that. :)

Len
---

- Original Message -
From: "Peifer, William [OCDUS]" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Tuesday, April 30, 2002 3:32 PM
Subject: RE: good deal on a non MLU 6x7?


> gfen asked:
> >Why is it I always assume everyone on the internet is mail?
>
> and Len replied:
> > Perhaps because you are using e-mail.  Then again, you
probably
> > meant "male".  
>
> Hi Len,
>
> In the event that he has to pay a WHOLE lot of money on
postage and
> handling, would that be "fee-mail"?
> 
>
> Bill Peifer
> Rochester, NY
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Favorite Film Survey Results UPDATE 49

2002-04-30 Thread Albano_Garcia

These are the conditions:
1 - You must answer off-list, right to me.
2 - You must choose your favorite emulsion (35 and 120/220 allowed. Color
and b
and w)
3 - You must choose ONLY ONE (color print OR slide OR b and w, etc).
4 - You must have personal experience with it.

WINNER by now: Tri-X with 11 votes.

Members: 111

COLOR Slide:

Kodak Kodachrome 25 (2)
Fuji Velvia (10)
Agfa RSX II 50 (1)
Kodak Kodachrome 64 (6)
Kodak Elitechrome Extra Color 100 (3)
Kodak Ektachrome 100 VS (3)
Kodak Ektachrome 100 SW (2)
Kodak Ektachrome 100 (1)
Fuji Sensia II 100 (3)
Fuji Provia 100F (9)
Kodak Kodachrome 200 (1)
Kodak Ektachrome E200 (2)
Fuji Provia 400F (1)

COLOR Print:

Konica Impressa 50 (1)
Kodak Supra 100 (1)
Kodak Royal 100 (1)
Fuji Reala 100 (2)
Agfa XRG 100 (1)
Kodak Portra 160 NC (1)
Fuji Superia 200 (1)
Agfa HDC Plus 200 (1)
Kodak Max 400 (1)
Kodak Ektapress PJ 400 (1)
Kodak Supra 400 (5)
Kodak Portra 400 NC (2)
Fuji Press 400 (1)
Fuji Superia 400 (2)
Fuji NPH 400 (1)
Kodak Portra 800 (1)
Fuji Press 800 (3)
Kodak PJC 1600 (1)

BLACK AND WHITE:

Agfapan APX 25 (2)
Agfapan APX 100 (1)
Ilford Pan F (4)
Ilford Delta 100 (4)
Kodak Plus-X (2)
Ilford FP4 Plus (3)
Agfa Scala 200x (1)
Kodak Tri-X (11)
Kodak T400 CN (2)
Kodak Porta 400 BW (1)
Fuji Neopan 400 (1)
Agfa APX 400 (1)
Ilford HP5 (1)
Ilford HP5+ (1)
Ilford XP2 (2)
Konica VX 400 (1)
Paterson Acupan 800 (1)

INFRARED:

Kodak HIE (1)
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Favorite Lens Survey Results UPDATE 57

2002-04-30 Thread Albano_Garcia

These are the conditions:
1 - You must answer off-list exclusively. On-list votes will not be
included.
2 - You must choose Your Favorite Pentax Lens. ONLY ONE. Yes, ONLY ONE.
3 - It must be original, no third-party allowed.
4 - Primes and zooms.
5 - You must specifiy: Tak, Super Tak, SMC Tak, K, M, A, F, FA, etc.
6 - You must have personal experience with it, no matter if you have it,
had it,
lost it, sold it, borrowed it, but you must have used it. If not it would
be a wish list.

First Place (11 votes): FA* 24 2

Members: 164


K 15 3.5 (2)
A 15 3.5 (3)
A 20 2.8 (1)
FA 20 2.8 (1)
K 24 2.8 (4)
A 24 2.8 (2)
FA* 24 2 (11)
K 28 3.5 (1)
K 28 3.5 Shift (1)
M 28 2.8 (1)
A 28 2 (1)
A 28 2.8 (1)
K 35 3.5 (1)
M 35 2 (1)
FA 35 2 (2)

M 40 2.8 (4)
FA 43 1.9 Limited (2)
SuperTak 50 1.4 (1)
SMC Tak 50 1.4 (3)
SMC Tak 55 1.8 (2)
K 50 1.2 (1)
K 50 1.4 (1)
M 50 1.4 (7)
M 50 1.7 (3)
M 50 4 Macro (1)
A 50 1.4 (6)
A 50 1.7 (1)
F 50 1.4 (1)
F 50 1.7 (1)
FA 50 1.4 (2)
FA 50 1.7 (1)
K 55 1.8 (2)

FA 77 1.8 Limited (4)
SMC Tak 85 1.8 (3)
SMC Tak 85 1.9 (2)
K 85 1.8 (2)
M 85 2 (2)
A* 85 1.4 (3)
FA* 85 1.4 (2)
SMC Tak 100 4 (1)
M 100 2.8 (2)
M 100 4 Dental Macro (1)
A 100 2.8 (1)
A 100 2.8 Macro (4)
F 100 2.8 (1)
F 100 2.8 Macro (3)
FA 100 2.8 Macro (5)
K 105 2.8 (2)
K 135 2.5 (1)
A* 135 1.8 (1)
A 135 2.8 (1)
Tak 200 3.5 Preset (1)
K 200 4 (1)
A* 200 2.8 (1)
A* 200 4 Macro (5)
A* 300 2.8 (2)
F* 300 4.5 (2)
FA* 300 4.5 (1)
FA* 400 5.6 (1)


FA 20-35 4 (3)
M 24-50 4 (1)
FA 24-90 3.5-4.5 (4)
FA 28-70 4 AL (1)
FA 28-80 3.5-4.7 (1)
F 35-70 3.5-4.5 Macro (3)
FA 28-105 4-5.6 powerzoom (3)
A 35-105 3.5 (8)
K 45-125 4 (1)
M 75-150 4 (3)
A 70-210 4 (2)
A 80-200 4.7-5.6 (1)
FA* 80-200 2.8 (1)


645 35 3.5 (1)
6x7 SMC 45 4 (1)
6x7 SMC Tak 55 3.5 (1)
6x7 SMC 55 4 (1)
67 165 4 LS (1)
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Re: OT: Rollei Xenotar

2002-04-30 Thread Shel Belinkoff

Hi Albano ...

Ed Uses a 1954 Rolleiflex 2.8E with, I believe, a Planar lens.  His
Rolleiflex TLR can be seen here:
http://www.edkrebs.com/linkspage/links.htm

It's almost fifty years old, and still does a great job of assisting Ed
with his portraits.  Even though I've said many times that I prefer
older cameras and more traditional gear and methods, I'm frequently
surprised to see the results these old cameras and lenses can deliver.  

Mike Johnston, in a recent column in Luminous Landscape, commented on
some of what he considers very qualitative differences achieved by using
older lenses and more traditional films and printing techniques
(http://www.luminous-landscape.com/sm-02-04-28.htm).  I think I agree
with him, although more exploration of the concept is in order.

Hey, the price is right.  Don't agonize over it ... if you can afford
it, buy it ... and use it to make your own unique photographic
statement.

[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> 
> Hi, Shel.
> I've visited the site just after you 
> mentioned it some time ago. I really
> like the portraits he does. Do you know 
> exactly which one he uses (planar,
> xenotar, xenar, tessar)?
> In fact, since I asked, I made some 
> surfing and learned some about 'flexes.
> Regards and thanks
> 
> AG
> 
> PS: The guy asks 100 usd for it.

-- 
Shel Belinkoff
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
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Most Used Body Survey Results UPDATE 5

2002-04-30 Thread Albano_Garcia

1- You must choose JUST ONE Pentax brand body of any era and format.
2- It must be the body you use most (time, quantity of shots, whatever...)
3- Again, you must choose JUST ONE.
4- Send the answers OFF-LIST, TO ME, to don't disturb list members. I'll
not count votes sent to list.

DISCLAIMER: For the "winner" category, I'll count all the variants of a
same model (ie all Spotties together), so don't start arguing "hey, you
must put all this or that together". Thanks

Winner (by now):   LX with 8 votes


Members: 44

Screwmount:
- Spotmatic F (1)

K Manual Focus:
- K 1000 (1)
- KM (1)
- KX (1)
- K2 (1)
- MX (3)
- ME Super (3)
- LX (8)
- Super Program (2)
- P 30t (1)
- ZX M (1)


K Autofocus:
- PZ 1 (1)
- Z 1p (1)
- PZ 1p (4)
- PZ 70 (1)
- MZ S (5)
- MZ 5n (1)
- ZX 5n (3)

Medium Format:
- 6x7 (3)
- 67 (1)
- 67II (1)
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Favorite Body Survey Results UPDATE 31

2002-04-30 Thread Albano_Garcia

1- You must choose JUST ONE Pentax brand body of any era and format.
2- You must have personal experience with it, no matter if you own it,
owned it, borrowed it, rented it. You must have used it (it's not a wish
list).
3- Again, you must choose JUST ONE.
4- Send the answers OFF-LIST, TO ME, to don't disturb list members. I'll
not count votes sent to list.
Regards

DISCLAIMER: For the "winner" category, I'll count all the variants of a
same model (ie all Spotties together), so don't start arguing "hey, you
must put all this or that together". Thanks



Winner by now: LX with 24 votes.

Members: 95

M42:
- Spotmatic (1)
- Spotmatic II (1)
- Spotmatic SP (2)
- Spotmatic F (1)
- SP 500 (2)
- ES (1)

K Manual Focus:
- KX (7)
- K2 (2)
- K2 DMD (2)
- K1000 SE (1)
- MX (8)
- ME (1)
- ME Super (1)
- LX (24)
- Super Program (1)
- Program A (1)

K Auto Focus:
- Z1 (1)
- Z1p (2)
- PZ1p (7)
- Z 5 (1)
- MZ S (13)
- ZX5n (2)
- MZ5n (3)

Medium Format:
- 645 (1)
- 6x7 (8)
- 67 (1)
- 67II (1)
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Bodies Survey Results UPDATE 166

2002-04-30 Thread Albano_Garcia

Please send the messages to me directly, to not disturb other
members,thanks.
Also, I've not included 110 and digital cameras, just because I started
this way, and I didn't want to change in the middle of the way.
Also, if you already submited and want to add new items, please put clearly
in your message: this is not my first submission, so I don't put you twice
in
the total answers.
Thanks to all contributors.

TOTAL ANSWERS: 465 members
MANUAL FOCUS:

Screw Mount:
- Asahiflex IIa5
- Asahiflex IIb6
- Asahi Pentax (AP)5
- K4
- S1
- SL...8
- SV..10
- S1...3
- S1a.11
- S2...2
- S3...5
- SP500...14
- SP1000..13
- Spotmatic IIa2
- Spotmatic SP69
- Spotmatic SP II.33
- Spotmatic F.42
- Spotmatic F MD...2
- Spotmatic MD.3
- ES..18
- ES II...25
- ElectroSpotmatic.4
- H1...2
- H1a..5
- H2...5
- H3...7
- H3v..5

Bayonette:

- KM..19
- KX..46
- KX MD1
- K2..45
- K2 DMD..12
- K1000...86
- K1000 SE10
- MX.139
- ME..42
- MF-1.1
- ME SE2
- ME Super...144
- ME Super SE..4
- MV...7
- MV1..2
- MG..14
- LX.163
- Super Program...78
- Super A.49
- Program Plus18
- Program A...10
- A30004
- A3...2
- A3(date).1
- P3...8
- P3n..9
- P30..8
- P30n.1
- P30t13
- P5...8
- P50..4
- ZX M25
- MZ M15

AUTOFOCUS:

- ME F11
- SF 1.5
- SFX..4
- SF 1n8
- SFXn13
- SF 7.2
- SF 108
- PZ 120
- PZ 1 SE..2
- Z1..25
- PZ 1p...74
- Z1p.41
- Z5...2
- Z5p..1
- PZ 105
- Z 10.5
- PZ 20...13
- Z 20.5
- Z 50p2
- PZ 706
- Z 70.1
- MZ S33
- MZ 322
- ZX 511
- MZ 515
- ZX 5n...63
- MZ 5n...43
- MZ 6.1
- ZX 7.9
- MZ 7.8
- ZX 10...11
- MZ 10...14
- ZX 308
- MZ 301
- ZX 509
- MZ 50...12

MEDIUM FORMAT:
- 645.19
- 645n.4
- 6x7.19
- 67...9
- 67 II9
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RE: good deal on a non MLU 6x7?

2002-04-30 Thread Peifer, William [OCDUS]

gfen asked:
>Why is it I always assume everyone on the internet is mail?

and Len replied:
> Perhaps because you are using e-mail.  Then again, you probably
> meant "male".  

Hi Len,

In the event that he has to pay a WHOLE lot of money on postage and
handling, would that be "fee-mail"?


Bill Peifer
Rochester, NY
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Re: OT: Rollei Xenotar

2002-04-30 Thread Len Paris

Sounds to cheap for me.  May have unrevealed problems.  Then
again, could be this person just doesn't know the true value.
For a hundred bucks, I wouldn't wait around for a lot of
answers.  Buy it.

Len
---

- Original Message -
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Tuesday, April 30, 2002 2:35 PM
Subject: Re: OT: Rollei Xenotar


> Hi, Shel.
> I've visited the site just after you mentioned it some time
ago. I really
> like the portraits he does. Do you know exactly which one he
uses (planar,
> xenotar, xenar, tessar)?
> In fact, since I asked, I made some surfing and learned some
about 'flexes.
> Regards and thanks
>
> AG
>
> PS: The guy asks 100 usd for it.
>
>
>
> HA!
> The Xenotar is, indeed, a good lens.  It's the Schneider
version of the
> Planar.  There are arguments amongst the Rolleiflex
aficionados as to
> which is better.  Some say the Planar is a bit sharper, some
say the
> Planar is more prone to light fall off (in the 2.8 versions),
but the
> bottom line is that both lenses are top of the line for
Rolleiflex, and
> the f3.5 is quite nice.  The 3.5 is, iirc, a 75mm lens rather
than an
> 80mm lens, which lends a somewhat different perspective to the
> photographs.
> Go here: http://www.edkrebs.com/ and explore the photos and
the links.
> It'll be well worth your time.
> -
> This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List.  To
unsubscribe,
> go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't
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> visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
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Re: good deal on a non MLU 6x7?

2002-04-30 Thread Len Paris

- Original Message -
From: "gfen" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Tuesday, April 30, 2002 1:54 PM
Subject: RE: good deal on a non MLU 6x7?


> On Tue, 30 Apr 2002, Peifer, William [OCDUS] wrote:
> > Three words: "Jump on it!"  Assuming it's not totally beat
to hell, and that
>
> Well, I emailed him, we'll just have to see what his (why is
it I always
> assume everyone on the internet is mail? but, anyways..)
response is,
> then.

Perhaps because you are using e-mail.  Then again, you probably
meant "male".  

Len
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Re: Super Program buyer

2002-04-30 Thread [EMAIL PROTECTED]

So do I, but to my eyes, the Super Program doesn't do a good job alerting me that I've 
turned the dial. I frequently tune out the exposure compensation flasher by mistake 
and end up shooting several frames at + or -2. I prefer an arrangement where the 
warning flasher is in the same row or column of lights as the exposure LEDs or LCDs.

William in Utah wrote: 
> I almost never use program or shutter priority myself, but I love 
> aperture priority and generally fine tune exposure with a twist of the 
> exposure compensation dial.   

[EMAIL PROTECTED]


mail2web - Check your email from the web at
http://mail2web.com/ .
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Re: Barely sorta on-topic-ish if you squint at it just right: myday

2002-04-30 Thread [EMAIL PROTECTED]

Stephen wrote:
> Hope you weren't anywhere near the huge eye that wasted La Plata 
> on Sunday. Everything OK?

Well, it missed me by several miles[*] _and_ twenty four hours.  
*whew* All I had to deal with on the way home Saturday night was
ordinary rain, and by the time of all the Noise And Destruction
on Sunday night I was safely back in Baltimore.  (We had thunder
& lightning up here, but I was so exhausted from my weekend that
I fell asleep between the first flash of lightning and the first
peal of thunder.  Slept through the storm (which I'm pretty sure
I couldn't have done if I'd still been in the tornado zone).)

[*] For folks who know the geography:  the festival was in St.
Leonard; the ceilidh afterwards was in Prince Frederick; and the
tornados took out downtown La Plata.

-- Glenn
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Re[2]: "Crash Course" in 6X7

2002-04-30 Thread Bruce Dayton

Dan,

The AE Prism II is designated to go with the 67II.  There is no AE
Prism I.  There is a TTL Prism for non 67II bodies.  It is much like
using an old spotmatic.  Match needle full averaging.  All manual
adjustments.

The AE Prism II on the 67II is much like using an LX.  Aperture
Priority or manual with exposure compensation in 1/3 stops.  It also
has center weighted, matrix and spot metering.  In the finder along
the bottom out of the view area it show a meter scale for manual,
shutter speed, meter mode and flash ready signal.  The finder also has
a built in eyepiece blind.


Bruce



Tuesday, April 30, 2002, 11:38:22 AM, you wrote:

>snip<


DK> Back just a few months ago I decided to try my hand at medium format again and 
picked up a Pentax 645NII.  I've been having a ball with that, and so far have the FA 
75mm, FA 200mm, FA 45-80mm,
DK> and FA-80-160mm.  I admit that I've become somewhat spoiled by metering 
capabilities of both the PZ-1P and 645NII.  So I'm not so sure if in the long run I'd 
be happy
DK> without the in-camera metering.  I also know that one thing that I like about both 
of my Pentax is the autofocus -- call that getting older I suppose.

DK> As for finding a good deal on a 6x7 w/MLU (rather than wanting to buy a new 67II), 
let me ask another question -- Bruce mentioned an AE prism II...which sort of matches 
my remembering that I've
DK> seen an AE prism (not II, meaning it's a "I"?).  What does that provide or change 
with the metering capabilities over the TTL -- or is the AE prism what was meant as the
DK> "averaging TTL metered" prism?



DK> Dan
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Re[2]: good deal on a non MLU 6x7?

2002-04-30 Thread Bruce Dayton

gfen,




Bruce



Tuesday, April 30, 2002, 11:54:32 AM, you wrote:

>snip<

g> I realize now I forgot to ensure something I wanted to check on: the 6x7's
g> prism is mountable on a newer 67, right?

The prisms for the non 67II are all interchangeable.  The TTL prism
won't work on the 67II and the AE Prism II won't work on non 67II
bodies.


g> -g.
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Re: For Aaron:OT Re:blocked mail

2002-04-30 Thread Aaron Reynolds

On Tuesday, April 30, 2002, at 12:54  PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
wrote:

> There are instances where sites are "accidentally" blocked or have been
> fixed; it takes a bit of time to get them taken off the lists.  This
> happened to one of my accounts.  But I think it's now up to Aaron's ISP 
> to
> explain why they're blocking rr.com (or why the third-party blacklisting
> site has them on the list).

Passport.ca are not blocking rr.com, they are merely using the blacklist 
at http://dsbl.org .  All rr.com have to do to get off of the blacklist 
is fill in the form at dsbl.org.  THAT'S ALL -- they don't even have to 
prove that they've removed the open relay or the malicious user or the 
formmail or whatever.

If someone from rr.com cannot be bothered to fill in the damn form and 
find out what was wrong that caused them to be blacklisted, well, that 
says a lot about service at rr.com.

http://dsbl.org/faq-listed.html

-Aaron
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Re: Rollei Xenotar

2002-04-30 Thread Len Paris

Albano,

Just call me Mr. Softie.  Here is a link to information from the
Rollei group.  Perhaps you'll find it informative.

  http://www.acecam.com/message/10264.html

Len (Always happy to do another's homework)
---

- Original Message -
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Tuesday, April 30, 2002 12:04 PM
Subject: OT: Rollei Xenotar


> Hi, gang
> A guy offers a Rolleiflex with Xenotar 3.5 lens. Is this lens
good? What's
> the best lens on old Rolleiflexes?
> Thanks
>
> AG
> -
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Re: 645 vs 645n( or 645nii)?

2002-04-30 Thread Jostein

I used the 645 for landscapes/nature for two years (almost), and was
very happy with it. The light meter behaves very much like any other
center-weight meter (eg. SuperA/ProgramA, P30/P50, etc.). Only one
small inconvenience with the interface: The buttons are too small for
operating with gloves on...

Jostein
http://oksne.net
- Original Message -
From: "Mark Erickson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "pentax-discuss" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Tuesday, April 30, 2002 6:40 PM
Subject: 645 vs 645n( or 645nii)?


> So, I'm pricing out MF options.  Looks like I can score a 645 body
in nice
> condition with insert for something like $700 from KEH.  A 645n body
with
> insert is closer to, say, $1400.
>
> I like the 645n user interface better, but autofocus seems pretty
optional
> for a landscape camera.  Is there anything about the original 645
that is
> bad or problematic?  Any good reason to stay away?
>
>  --Mark
> -
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Re: OT: Rollei Xenotar

2002-04-30 Thread Albano_Garcia

Hi, Shel.
I've visited the site just after you mentioned it some time ago. I really
like the portraits he does. Do you know exactly which one he uses (planar,
xenotar, xenar, tessar)?
In fact, since I asked, I made some surfing and learned some about 'flexes.
Regards and thanks

AG

PS: The guy asks 100 usd for it.



HA!
The Xenotar is, indeed, a good lens.  It's the Schneider version of the
Planar.  There are arguments amongst the Rolleiflex aficionados as to
which is better.  Some say the Planar is a bit sharper, some say the
Planar is more prone to light fall off (in the 2.8 versions), but the
bottom line is that both lenses are top of the line for Rolleiflex, and
the f3.5 is quite nice.  The 3.5 is, iirc, a 75mm lens rather than an
80mm lens, which lends a somewhat different perspective to the
photographs.
Go here: http://www.edkrebs.com/ and explore the photos and the links.
It'll be well worth your time.
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Re: OT: Sunny Brighton...

2002-04-30 Thread Bob Walkden

Hi,

that's a pity because my prior engagement has been postponed, so I may
go to Photographica instead (unless Force Majeure decides otherwise) and
I was hoping to bump into you. :o(

What time does it start?

---

 Bob  

mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]

Monday, April 29, 2002, 4:28:21 PM, you wrote:

>>Anyone in for a bigger PDML meet at Photographica?  I might give a PDML
>>discount to anyone who wants to buy my RB67 kit ;)

> Sadly Dave, I don't think I'm going to be able to make it to 
> Photographica. I'm due to work that weekend and I don't think I can get 
> out of it. Probably a blessing, I'm spent up! Well, what I mean is that 
> the credit card is pent up!!

> Cotty
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Re[2]: How Much Film Do You Carry

2002-04-30 Thread Bob Walkden

Hi,

> For example, two or three identical cameras
> with different focal lengths loaded with identical film is an ideal
> method for me, as when I'm photographing I may burn an entire roll or
> more on just one subject, and what I need is not more film choices, but
> more focal lengths, perspectives, and points of view.

this is pretty much the way I shoot too. I only rarely use more than
one speed of film (always the same type, eg K64 and K200) and that's
if I know I'll be in rapidly changing light. If I'm shooting b&w I tend
to use either 200 or 400; outdoors I'll use a yellow/green filter which
slows the film down a bit, and taking it off indoors brings the film up
to speed. Since I use a handheld meter quite a lot having different film
speeds in different cameras can cause more trouble than it's worth.

As for quantity, I've found about 6 rolls/day to be about right for a
day dedicated to photography. For a non-dedicated day then perhaps 2
or 3 rolls. I carry far more, of course - usually at least 10 rolls.

If I'm working on a commission though - eg kiddy portraits for parents
- I'll agree a number of rolls with them first - usually 2, and not
exceed that because of the cost implications.

In a (highly recommended) book I bought recently
http://www.rotovision.com/description.asp?bookid=547
the photojournalist John Downing writes "When I undertake a foreign
assignment I try to find out how long I'm going to be away [...] and
then reckon on using 6 rolls of film a day and estimate it from there.
It's a rough formula but it seems to work, because I've never run out
of film to date. I usually end up shooting more like 10 rolls for the
first 2 days and then become more discerning and shoot far less."

My experience has been the same. I would refine his comments by saying
that I calculate approximately how many *shooting* days I'll have - as
opposed to travelling days - multiply by 5 or 6 and add a few for
contingency. This has worked well for me and it's been a long time
since I ran out of film. Another formula that somebody once told me is
to calculate how many films you'll need, then double it. This is
useful until you've done enough trips to know from experience what
your shooting rate really is. It's always best to overestimate, of
course.

---

 Bob  

mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
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RE: good deal on a non MLU 6x7?

2002-04-30 Thread gfen

On Tue, 30 Apr 2002, gfen wrote:
> assume everyone on the internet is mail? but, anyways..) response is,

...is MAIL?

I've been at this job too long.

-- 
http://www.infotainment.org
 "The destructive character is cheerful."  - Walter Benjamin
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Re: "Crash Course" in 6X7

2002-04-30 Thread gfen

On Tue, 30 Apr 2002, Dan Kirsch wrote:

> Well "G" (gfen), now we'll have to keep an eye on each other as we madly search 
>through eBay;-)

I thought I was about to leave the race, but evidently someone beat me to
it and offered a down payment on the 6x7 nonMLU I brought up before.

-sigh-

I just hope it wasn't another PDML'r beating me to it. :)

BTW, your posts aren't line-wrapping correctly. It makes it tough to
correctly respond...

-g.

-- 
http://www.infotainment.org
 "The destructive character is cheerful."  - Walter Benjamin
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Re: "Crash Course" in 6X7

2002-04-30 Thread Mark Stringer

http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-one-category.tcl?topic_id=35&category=Pentax%2067&topic_id=35&category=Pentax%2067

http://web.mit.edu/dennis/www/pentax67/lens-info.html

Some links that might help
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Re: 645 vs 645n( or 645nii)?

2002-04-30 Thread Nick Wright

I used the 645 for many many months while working for a children's 
portraiture outfit last year. I would shoot on average 10-20 per day of 220
film. It stood up to it very well, after about 6-7 months of my using it in
this fashion the shutter started to exhibit odd behaviour. Mainly, the pix
would come out looking as though the shutter was set higher than the flash
sync speed when it was not. Anyway, while it was being fixed I got to use
one of the newer 645n's. Personally, when shooting landscapes, I like to use
in-camera spot metering in fully manual mode to determine exposure. If you
like it this way too... opposed to say using a handheld meter... then you
need the 645n. The 645 does not have a spot meter or a bar graph exposure
readout. The 645 meter simply reads in +/- stops. To me I like the dial
interface of the 645n verses the ME Super-esque buttons of the 645 for
shutter. If you're conservative with film the 645n will also crank out 2 or
3 extra frames on a roll (I forget which). Also don't forget the fact that
the 645n will print exposure data off to the side of the image. But as far
as actual use, in the studio doing children's portraits... I did not notice
much of a difference. But then, in the studio, I always locked the camera to
it's sync speed and used a handheld meter to determine lighting positions.
Good luck.
--
Nick Wright
http://www.wrightfoto.com/

--
>From: "Mark Erickson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>To: "pentax-discuss" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Subject: 645 vs 645n( or 645nii)?
>Date: Tue, Apr 30, 2002, 11:40 AM
>

> So, I'm pricing out MF options.  Looks like I can score a 645 body in nice
> condition with insert for something like $700 from KEH.  A 645n body with
> insert is closer to, say, $1400.
>
> I like the 645n user interface better, but autofocus seems pretty optional
> for a landscape camera.  Is there anything about the original 645 that is
> bad or problematic?  Any good reason to stay away?
>
>  --Mark
> -
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RE: good deal on a non MLU 6x7?

2002-04-30 Thread gfen

On Tue, 30 Apr 2002, Peifer, William [OCDUS] wrote:
> Three words: "Jump on it!"  Assuming it's not totally beat to hell, and that

Well, I emailed him, we'll just have to see what his (why is it I always
assume everyone on the internet is mail? but, anyways..) response is,
then.

I figured it was a good price since it included the TTL and 90 LS, but I
wanted someone to tell me it was, as well. He rates it as being in good
shape, with some slight brassing and the aforementioned ding. He also says
that the body and meter was refurbished 10/01 by United Camera Repair.

> it functions properly.  From what I've been able to tell, even $450 to $500
> would be a good deal on a working 90 LS and TTL prism finder.  You may want

I realize now I forgot to ensure something I wanted to check on: the 6x7's
prism is mountable on a newer 67, right?

> to actually verify that this is in fact a ~metering~ prism.  I noticed a
> non-metering prism on eBay recently that was listed as a TTL prism finder,
> but the accompanying picture was most definitely the non-metering prism

If not, then I can either break teh deal I'm sure or lower the price.

> finder.  Take a look at the following URL to see what a non-MLU body and TTL
> prism went for a few days ago, despite the missing TTL ring on the shutter

They all look teh same to me, so.. yeah.

> I think that's too high, but I suppose it gives you an upper limit of the
> going rates.

I have the feeling I ccould've argued for less, but you know what... I
don't care. It comes in under my original limit of $700, and that was
money I'm lucky to have at all.

-g.

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Re: Optima II (was Film suggestions needed)

2002-04-30 Thread Stephen Moore

TM wrote:

> For the purpose of shooting motorsports, though, there are no huge
> contrasts like you would see shooting landscapes.
> 
> How about Fuji Superia X-Tra 100? Portra 160?

I've gotten some good results with Superia Reala, depending
on the lighting situation.

Funny you should mention ISO 160. I often have contrast problems
at the track, especially midday: small, brightly colored objects
with numbers on them, trapped between light green grass and highly
reflective asphalt below, and dark green trees above and behind.
Even given the care my minilab takes with their machine, the lighter
areas often seem to get blasted out. (My lab guy used to shoot
NASCAR professionally, and he admitted to having exposure problems 
with the concrete tracks on the circuit.)

This season I'm going to try considering the middle of the day a 
high-contrast situation and try something like NPC or NPS. 

List, is that a dumb idea?

Regards,

Stephen
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Re: "Crash Course" in 6X7

2002-04-30 Thread Dan Kirsch

Well "G" (gfen), now we'll have to keep an eye on each other as we madly search 
through eBay;-)

In general, related to the three posts copied below...I'm not sure what my needs are 
yet -- sort of.  What I'm kicking around is wanting to try larger format.  I'd started 
in photography about 40 years ago doing 6x6, and it wasn't until about 10 years later 
that I even bothered getting a 35mm.  That was a Canon AE1 and it was great fun to 
have the AE when I
wanted it but has long since been replaced by my Pentax PZ-1P.

Back just a few months ago I decided to try my hand at medium format again and picked 
up a Pentax 645NII.  I've been having a ball with that, and so far have the FA 75mm, 
FA 200mm, FA 45-80mm, and FA-80-160mm.  I admit that I've become somewhat spoiled by 
metering capabilities of both the PZ-1P and 645NII.  So I'm not so sure if in the long 
run I'd be happy
without the in-camera metering.  I also know that one thing that I like about both of 
my Pentax is the autofocus -- call that getting older I suppose.

As for finding a good deal on a 6x7 w/MLU (rather than wanting to buy a new 67II), let 
me ask another question -- Bruce mentioned an AE prism II...which sort of matches my 
remembering that I've seen an AE prism (not II, meaning it's a "I"?).  What does that 
provide or change with the metering capabilities over the TTL -- or is the AE prism 
what was meant as the
"averaging TTL metered" prism?


Dan


Many wrote:

> Date: Tue, 30 Apr 2002 09:10:46 -0700
> From: "Bill D. Casselberry" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: Re: "Crash Course" in 6X7
>
>  Dan ...
>
> if you are comfortable w/ early SLR's like the pre-SpotMatics
> a 6x7 will be fine - just be sure it has the Mirror LockUp, as
> only the oldest ones will lack the MLU. If you "need" in-camera
> metering, the metered prism will give you full-frame averaging
> at open aperture, much like a SpotMatic F. If you are comfortable
> w/ an external meter, then the non-metered prism will suffice.
>
> The 67 came several years after the 6x7's and is much the same
> beast w/ some minor changes others can detail. The 67II, from what
> I can gather, seems to be an overgrown SuperProgram, less the
> Shutter Priority. That is to say - more automation along the lines
> of Aperture Priority/AutoExposure. I am less than totally familiar
> w/ the 67II, but being as it is the current model, all info should
> be available at the Pentax WebSite.
>
> MHO - find a good deal on a 6x7 w/ MLU and a prism of either sort
> and use the bulk of your funds for lenses.
> - Standard Operating Procedure
>
> Bill
>
> -
>
>
> Date: Tue, 30 Apr 2002 12:38:11 -0400 (EDT)
> From: gfen <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: Re: "Crash Course" in 6X7
>
> On Tue, 30 Apr 2002, Dan Kirsch wrote:
>
> > I've been considering getting a 6X7, and have started looking at this by not only 
>checking the
>
> This makes two of us, now I have competion for when someone posts the ebay
> finds.. damnit. :)
>
> > Pentax site, but also following some of the things available on eBay.  But I'm 
>having a hard
> > time trying to get a handle on what models are what other than the newest 67II.
>
> Again, that makes two of us.
>
> There appears to be no equivilent to the KMP pages, etc. I suppose I could
> stand up and take the inititive, but not only am I incredibly lazy, but I
> don't think I have the ability to really go into that much detail or do
> that much research... Alright, so I am that lazy.
>
> > For example, I've noticed that first of all some seem to be listed as 6X7 while 
>others are
> > listed as 67's.  Some that are listed as 6X7 have "Asahi Pentax" on the finder, 
>others simply
> > show Pentax.  And some bodies are clearly older models than others.  Add to this 
>the fact that I
>
> The earliest 6x7 had no MLU, the later 6x7s and 67s had MLU. Apparantly,
> the 6x7 is all metal, the 67 replaced some of the metal parts with
> plastics. At some point, the cosmetic changes of 6x7 being replaced with
> 67 and Asahi Pentax being replaced with Pentax happened, as well.
>
> > can't seem to find anything indicating which finders were available for which 
>model, and it's
> > leaving me a bit confused as to what I should be even looking for.
>
> The 6x7 and 67 have non-metered prism finders, averaging TTL metered
> prisms, or waist-level finders available.
>
> > Can anyone point me to a web site or other information source that perhaps has 
>some comparison
> > information as to what the various models were/are?  I'm trying to understand 
>which model is
> > older, which is newer; which offers AE, which doesn't; what features have been 
>added (MLU, etc.)
>
> I was told on the 67ii had AE. Only the earliest 6x7 did not have MLU.
>
> > and to which models.

Re: Canadian Ebayers

2002-04-30 Thread Shel Belinkoff

Hi Bill ...

Here the Post Office will provide much of the packing and shipping
material for free, and they'll deliver it to your door as well. 
Newspaper for wadding and cushioning the item in the box can also be
absolutely free, if not just effectively free.  Styrofoam peanuts are
free, too, if you save them from packages that you receive.  The PO will
also come by and pick up your packages, but there's a charge of $10.25
for that.  However, if you have a number of packages, and your time is
valuable, and the post office is a hassle, it may be a very
cost-effective and stress-free way to ship.  But, here's the thing,
small packages can be placed in pickup boxes, and there's no charge for
that in any case, or they can often (not always) be left for, or given
to, the postal carrier for no charge. Larger packages may require
additionally handling.

I agree that charging a lot extra for "handling" may be considered to be
usurious, but Tom's situation may be different than yours or mine.  If I
paid $1.50 for a box, 25-cents for packing peanuts, amortized the tape
needed to seal the package, factored in my time @ $X.00 per hour,
figured in specific automobile expenses, the cost of the toner used to
print the address on the label, the cost for the included "Thank You"
note which I often send along with the item, the time required to enter
feedback, shoe leather, and all the subtle hidden costs, I might want to
charge more than I do for shipping and handling.  But I consider that
part of the service I provide my customers, part of my cost of doing
business, part of a strategy for repeat business or referrals, and to
develop a strong, positive feedback, which can help sell my goods.


William Robb wrote:
 
> Tom, the cost of a cardboard box 
> is perhaps a dollar, if not
> free, packing material is effectively free, 
> and small packet postage to the USA from 
> Canada is $5.60. Charging $16.50 gives the 
> seller a $9.00 profit on the shipment
> in question.
> Do you really think this is reasonable?

-- 
Shel Belinkoff
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
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Re: OT: Rollei Xenotar

2002-04-30 Thread Len Paris

That is an often asked question on the Rollei list.  If they
can't settle it, how would we be able to settle it?

Len
---

- Original Message -
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Tuesday, April 30, 2002 12:04 PM
Subject: OT: Rollei Xenotar


> Hi, gang
> A guy offers a Rolleiflex with Xenotar 3.5 lens. Is this lens
good? What's
> the best lens on old Rolleiflexes?
> Thanks
>
> AG
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RE: good deal on a non MLU 6x7?

2002-04-30 Thread Peifer, William [OCDUS]

gfen wrote:
> I found an ad for a non-MLU 6x7 with TTL prism (new batteries, as
> well), 90mm 2.8 ls lens, and caps for $650. Is this reasonable? Is
> this, better yet, a good deal?

Three words: "Jump on it!"  Assuming it's not totally beat to hell, and that
it functions properly.  From what I've been able to tell, even $450 to $500
would be a good deal on a working 90 LS and TTL prism finder.  You may want
to actually verify that this is in fact a ~metering~ prism.  I noticed a
non-metering prism on eBay recently that was listed as a TTL prism finder,
but the accompanying picture was most definitely the non-metering prism
finder.  Take a look at the following URL to see what a non-MLU body and TTL
prism went for a few days ago, despite the missing TTL ring on the shutter
speed dial:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1347251635

I think that's too high, but I suppose it gives you an upper limit of the
going rates.

Good luck!

Bill Peifer
Rochester, NY
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RE: Re: 645 vs 645n( or 645nii)?

2002-04-30 Thread [EMAIL PROTECTED]

As having used the 645n but not the 645 I can only comment on the former.

The Autofocus was "ok" but I didn't use it that much.  I never used the 645n for 
landscapes as I would prefer to get a 6x7 or 6x9 to do that plus the fact that I'm not 
a big landscape shooter.  That being said; the autofocus did come in handy once in a 
blue moon when shooting kids or if I spotted something I wanted to catch "right now" 
without having to take too much time to set up.

On Stan Halpin's recent trip he had his 645 along so perhaps he can comment on the 
usuability of the beast.  I know that the 645n was just like the MZ-5N in terms of 
it's function layout so it made the 645n a lot like a bigger 35mm SLR (but not as big 
as the 67). 

Cheers,
Dave



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Re: pentax 24-90

2002-04-30 Thread RDJ92807

I tested the Pentax 24-90 vs the Tamron 24-135.  I'd give a very slight edge 
to the Pentax for optics, but the extra range of the Tamron is nice.  Both 
are very good zooms opticallyboth very consistent over the ranges.  A 
tough choice.

Robert James

In a message dated 4/30/2002 10:11:57 AM Pacific Daylight Time, 
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

<<  5) Finally, anybody compared it to the Tokina 24-135? >>
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Re: Canadian Ebayers

2002-04-30 Thread William Robb

- Original Message -
From: T Rittenhouse
Subject: Re: Canadian Ebayers


> And you are eating the difference, that is nice of you, but it
is not
> realistic to expect others to do so.

Tom, the cost of a cardboard box is perhaps a dollar, if not
free, packing material is effectively free, and small packet
postage to the USA from Canada is $5.60.
Charging $16.50 gives the seller a $9.00 profit on the shipment
in question.
Do you really think this is reasonable?

William Robb
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Re: Super Program buyer

2002-04-30 Thread [EMAIL PROTECTED]

Plucking some message out of my backlog...

William in Utah wrote:
> I almost never use program or shutter priority myself, but I love
> aperture priority and generally fine tune exposure with a twist of the
> exposure compensation dial.  

That's mostly what I do on the Super Program as well.  Once in a
blue moon I find myself deciding to be lazy and use program
mode, usually in "easy" conditions (where the background is such
that deliberately limiting DOF isn't a big issue, and there's
plenty of light but I'm moving between full daylight and
shadow).  

A bit more often than that (but still nowhere near as often as I
use aperture priority), I'll use shutter priority if I'm
handholding a long lens:  I'll set the shutter speed to somehing
hand-holdable and let the camera choose the aperture.  I'm more
likely to do that in low light, where I can't see the LCD
readout very well (and don't want to keep hitting the "drain
battery" button all the time).

What would be better still for me -- both for handholding long
lenses and for the times I wrap the strap around my forearm and
hold the camera out the window of a moving car with a wide lens
on it -- would be a mode where I could specify a _minimum_
shutter speed but let the camera choose speeds higher than that
where apropriate.  But normal shutter priority works well
enough.

I don't often shoot the Super Program in manual mode -- I don't
really like the buttons, and will choose the KX, K2, or a
screwmount body to shoot manual if I have any of those handy.
Once in a while I hit a situation where I want to go manual and
only have the Super Program with me (or that's the only one with
the right kind of film in it); occasionally I'll do the "manual
mode plus exposure compensation plus TTL flash" trick for fill
flash.

> One thing I forgot to mention about the Super Program, is that the film
> speed is a pain in the neck to change.  It takes two hands, and even
> then, isn't particularly easy or quick.  

Uh, I don't find it difficult.  I grab the camera from the
bottom in my right hand, jab what little fingernail I've got on
my left index finger into the little button, and use my left
thumb and middle finger to rotate the dial.  I don't even think
about it -- it just sort of happens.  (It doesn't take much of a
fingernail to do this; my left hand is my fretting hand, and the
nails on that side are trimmed close.)

Now a PITA film-speed change would be the K2, though I think
I've finally gotten the hang of _that_ one...  (It seems that
the speed ring wants to be moved with a fingernail rather than a
fingertip.  Either that or I just got lucky the last couple
times I had to adjust it.)


Shel Belinkoff wrote:
> This begs the question of shooting style.  I'd think that a photographer
> would know what the shutter speed and aperture are set at without having
> to look.  

Unless I'm switching between bodies and lose track of what speed
the Super Program was last set to, maybe.

> Of course, with the old fashioned shutter speed dial, the
> "readout" is there to be easily seen at all times, except in darkness, a
> situation in which very few photographs of the "stealth" type are made
> anyway.

#blink#  Uh ... quietly rest the camera on top of a pewter
goblet (nice steady support), angle it in the direction of the
cutie across the table whose face is lit by candlelight, and
wait for a loud moment in the conversation to press the shutter
button ... "very few" doesn't match my personal experience.  ;-)

(Or rest the camera on the tabletop with a lens cap propping up
the end of the lens to point it up slightly...)

> Using such a dial allows one to change the aperture and feel each change
> with the finger. With practice - and practice is necessary to some
> degree - the photographer can change shutter speeds in the dark and know
> exactly what speed has been selected.  Of course, this assumes
> familiarity with the camera, and assumes that the photographer wants, or
> cares enough to, take the time to learn this skill.

If all else fails, on a camera with a dial (i.e. K2, KX), I'll
just rotate it to the shortest or longest speed and count the
clicks from there in the dark.



Bolo wrote:
> > One problem with some of the electronic designs is that you can't "feel"
> > the shutter speed settings change.  
>
> That is true of some "electronic" interfaces, typically on AF bodies.
> However: The buttons on the SP give you definite ideas of the shutter
> speed.  For every click you get a one-stop change in speed, no more,
> no less.  

If you remember where you started from...

> Reliably time after time.  

*If* the way your fingers fit the buttons gives you a reliable
button-press each time you poke at it.  Note that there's no
"tactile keyclick" to let you know whether you've _really_
pressed the button.  And goodness help you if you're wearing
Winter gloves!

Sorry; I've gotten used to _coping_ with the buttons, but I
don't find them anywhere as easy to use as the dial. 

Re: RE: Optima II (was Film suggestions needed)

2002-04-30 Thread David Brooks

Taka.
I'm just starting to use the Portra 160 and will
try the 400 soon.My main colours shot are browns,whites and 
reds.The Portra seems to handle quite well.Gives a more
natural sky colour,were i found the Optima II gave it a very
deep sea colour.

Dave
 Begin Original Message 

From: "TM" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>


How about Fuji Superia X-Tra 100? Portra 160?




Pentax User
Stouffville Ontario Canada
http://home.ca.inter.net/brooksdj

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good deal on a non MLU 6x7?

2002-04-30 Thread gfen

I found an ad for a non-MLU 6x7 with TTL prism (new batteries, as well),
90mm 2.8 ls lens, and caps for $650. Is this reasonable? Is this, better
yet, a good deal? While its a non MLU, it also gets me started down the
path with a leaf shutter lens, as well. He does say there is a ding in the
apex of the housing.



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Re: OT: Rollei Xenotar

2002-04-30 Thread Collin Brendemuehl

It will be a very good unit.
You will not be disappointed, unless you pay
too much.  What vintage is it? 
A, B, C ... ?

Collin


From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
Subject: OT: Rollei Xenotar 

Hi, gang 
A guy offers a Rolleiflex with Xenotar 3.5 lens. Is this lens good? What's 
the best lens on old Rolleiflexes? 
Thanks 

AG 



--

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RE: LX motor drive - question

2002-04-30 Thread Rupprecht, James R

Hey Rob...

Being the lazy type when possible, I have always had my pack assembled by
the battery seller. I initially used NiCd cells for my packs. What I found
was that using the Sanyo 225 mah cells (I think they are same ones you use)
my battery vendor would first shrink the cell columns, and then shrink the
two columns together to complete the pack. With that approach, the new cells
fit rather tightly... in fact, there were times when I had to remove the
outer shrink just to get them to fit at all.

When I went to NiMH AA cells using the same construction, the replacement
packs were  about the same size as the originals, making the rebuild easier.

FWIW, in the 80's and early 90's when I was working as a photojournalist, I
owned 6 or 7 packs and recelled them on average about ever 18 months... but
only one at a time. I found every pack I ordered was slightly different in
size depending on the brand of the cells in it. I have always just added or
removed foam depending on how big the cell packs were in fact, I have an
NiCd pack M that currently has no foam in it because the 225 mah NiCd cells
in it were a bit larger this time. As far as tripod and pack stability,
everything "feels" ok. Though I use my monopod and tripod a lot, it is
usually with a lens that has a mounting collar... I do use a copy stand at
times, though, and it seems to be no less stable screwed into a rebuilt
pack.

Regards,

James Rupprecht



-Original Message-
From: Rob Studdert [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]
Sent: Monday, April 29, 2002 7:01 PM
To: Rupprecht, James R; [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: RE: LX motor drive - question


On 29 Apr 2002 at 12:57, Rupprecht, James R wrote:

> The huge plus of NiMH packs is that they are less succeptable to memory
> issues so you can charge partially discharged packs w/o worry. If you use
> NiMH packs, you can build them from 1/3 AA cells. They range from 225 mah
to 300
> mah. The NiCd cells suggested by the article are 1/3 A cells with a 225
mah
> rating. NiMH cells are also a bit more environmentally friendly.

Hi James,

Thanks for the info, the 1/3A cells are a different diameter to the 1/3AA 
cells, smaller I believe, they would have to have been padded so as to fit?
Is 
there any loss of mechanical stability in the pack? Would it be as stable as

the original pack when the LX, Motor and BP are tripod mounted?

Cheers,

Rob Studdert
HURSTVILLE AUSTRALIA
Tel +61-2-9554-4110
UTC(GMT)  +10 Hours
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://members.ozemail.com.au/~distudio/publications.html
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RE: Optima II (was Film suggestions needed)

2002-04-30 Thread TM

Alin, Bruce, David-
Thanks all for the info on Agfa Optima II.

For the purpose of shooting motorsports, though, there are no huge
contrasts like you would see shooting landscapes.

How about Fuji Superia X-Tra 100? Portra 160?

I'd like to find a print film with a very fine grain and isn't so
critical
if I screw up my exposure by a stop or two.

Coming from using P&S cameras for so long, it's kind of hard to get away
from
using 400 and 800 speed films, which are necessary with the crappy
lenses on
a P&S.

Taka
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Re: 645 vs 645n( or 645nii)?

2002-04-30 Thread Bruce Dayton

Mark,

>From my understanding, if you don't need or want AF, you could get
alot more glass for the 645.  I am not aware of any major advantages
of the N version.  Perhaps Tom or one of the other owners could chime
in.


Bruce



Tuesday, April 30, 2002, 9:40:31 AM, you wrote:

ME> So, I'm pricing out MF options.  Looks like I can score a 645 body in nice 
ME> condition with insert for something like $700 from KEH.  A 645n body with 
ME> insert is closer to, say, $1400. 

ME> I like the 645n user interface better, but autofocus seems pretty optional 
ME> for a landscape camera.  Is there anything about the original 645 that is 
ME> bad or problematic?  Any good reason to stay away? 

ME>  --Mark
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Re: Optima II (was Film suggestions needed)

2002-04-30 Thread Bruce Dayton

Alin,

Thanks for the lesson.  In viewing the image, I can see a softness on
the edge of the mountain, especially near the sun.  Do you have any of
the Gold shots for comparison?

I'll go back through my shots (lots of Bryce Canyon) and look for
similar problems and let you know what I find out.

BTW, where did you learn about anti-halation effects and how to spot
them?

Thanks,


Bruce



Tuesday, April 30, 2002, 9:13:11 AM, you wrote:

AF>   Hi Bruce,

AF>   It's from my own experience (I never speak on this list otherwise
AF>   without an explicit statement). I do most of my photography in the
AF>   high mountains and it's not rare that I have to deal with extreme
AF>   contrasts. In my quest of a film with good saturation yet capable
AF>   of an acceptable tonal range I gave Optima II 100 a try. I shot
AF>   several rolls in a hike during last year springtime and I was very
AF>   upset with its halation problems that compromised the apparent
AF>   sharpness. It looked far worse than the Gold 100 I had in the camera
AF>   before loading Optima. Its great colours only made for bitter
AF>   regrets. Unfortunately I haven't scanned the biggest offenders, but
AF>   in order to see a sample of local halation you may look for the sky
AF>   line in the following shot (be warned it has 258 KB):

AF>   http://213.157.187.142/esf2/temp/ApusBucsoi.jpg

AF>   Anyway, I don't want to be misunderstood: I find Optima II delivers
AF>   great colours within a pretty long tonal range, but sometimes
AF>   sharpness can be altered by local high contrasts.
  
AF>   Servus, Alin
  

BD>> I'm curious to know how you found that out.  Is it due to what you
BD>> have seen in your own images or was that information available
BD>> somewhere?  I realize that it is hard to tell in small scans the
BD>> problem you are describing, but I haven't really noticed it in my
BD>> shots.

BD>> Do you have some comparisons so that I would recognize the issue in my
BD>> own images?  Could you show us the images that were unsatisfatory and
BD>> caused you to quit using this film?  I'm really curious because I am
BD>> having great results with this film.
AF> -
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Re[3]: Update on 'dead' 6x7

2002-04-30 Thread Bruce Dayton

David,

Yes it does.  There are prisms available for eye level viewing, eye
level viewing with metering or waist level viewing.


Bruce



Tuesday, April 30, 2002, 8:23:20 AM, you wrote:

DB> Dumb MF quiry.Does this(prisim) change the camera from
DB> a top view to a '35mm type' of view?
DB> Dave
DB> Subject: Re: Update on 'dead' 6x7


DB> > opt for a prisim and maybe a handheld meter.  


DB> Pentax User
DB> Stouffville Ontario Canada
DB> http://home.ca.inter.net/brooksdj

DB> Sign up today for your Free E-mail at: http://www.canoe.ca/CanoeMail 
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Re: Pre-eBay pre-Friday Pentax sale :-)

2002-04-30 Thread Shel Belinkoff

It's a very fine lens, no doubt about it, however, unless there is a
model I'm not familiar with, the lens is an A100/2.8, not an A*.

William Robb wrote:
> 
> - Original Message -
> From: HUDERER Bernd
 
> > > Pentax SMC A* 100mm/2.8 Macro lens   $625
> >
> > Is it really A* ? Would explain the price. Never heard about
> > such type.
> 
> I have one. Worth every penny that Rob is asking...
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Re: Re: Update on 'dead' 6x7

2002-04-30 Thread David Brooks

Dumb MF quiry.Does this(prisim) change the camera from
a top view to a '35mm type' of view?
Dave
Subject: Re: Update on 'dead' 6x7


 opt for a prisim and maybe a handheld meter.  


Pentax User
Stouffville Ontario Canada
http://home.ca.inter.net/brooksdj

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Poor thing...

2002-04-30 Thread mike wilson

Hi,

My LX is suffering from "knackered shutter magnets" in the argot
of the local technician and must visit Pentax UK for a while.

Never heard of shutter magnet problems with the LX, unlike the
T90 Canon where it is a well known problem.  Anyone got an
opinion?

mike
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Re[4]: Film suggestions needed

2002-04-30 Thread Bruce Dayton

Alin,

I'm curious to know how you found that out.  Is it due to what you
have seen in your own images or was that information available
somewhere?  I realize that it is hard to tell in small scans the
problem you are describing, but I haven't really noticed it in my
shots.

Do you have some comparisons so that I would recognize the issue in my
own images?  Could you show us the images that were unsatisfatory and
caused you to quit using this film?  I'm really curious because I am
having great results with this film.

Thanks,

Bruce



Tuesday, April 30, 2002, 6:40:40 AM, you wrote:

AF>   Optima II is significantly more saturated than the average film on
AF>   the blue and red ends of the spectrum. Check:

AF>   http://pug.komkon.org/01jul/HereComesTheSun.html

AF>   Despite it's good colour balance and fine grain, beware of the poor
AF>   antihalation protection of the film. Sharp edges between lights and
AF>   shadows are fuzzier than on most other 100 ASAs. Sadly, I had to
AF>   part with it just for this reason.

T>> About that Agfa Optima II- when you say the blues are vivid,
T>> does the film have a bluish cast to it overall or is it just that
T>> the color saturation is excellent?

AF>   Servus, Alin
AF> -
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Re: Re[2]: The old digital/film debate

2002-04-30 Thread Aaron Reynolds

On Sunday, April 28, 2002, at 09:06  PM, Bruce Dayton wrote:

>  Because of the ease of duplication
> (scanning) and the acceptance of crap by the customer, once they get
> their prints, you will rarely see any more orders.  So it might be
> better to charge an hourly rate or at least charge for your time
> separate from the print prices.

Ask me how many requests for reprints from wedding proofs we get in a 
week.  And they get so pissed when you ask for a letter from the 
photographer and even more pissed when you tell them what the fines are 
to the lab for each infraction.  Then they try to plead.

One guy yelled at me over it yesterday.  Sheesh.

-Aaron
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Re: Update on 'dead' 6x7

2002-04-30 Thread Len Paris

Just read the manual that comes with the meter.  They usually
cover the basics pretty well.

Len
---

- Original Message -
From: "William Kane" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Monday, April 29, 2002 10:19 PM
Subject: Re: Update on 'dead' 6x7


>Shutter speeds SOUND as if they are working correctly, so
my next
> step is obtaining a lens and some film.  If I like this, I'll
probably
> opt for a prisim and maybe a handheld meter.  (Guess that
means I'll
> need to actually read a book on metering too!)
>
>Anyhow, I'm off to do some more work, there may be time to
work on
> this over the weekend.
>
> Illinois Bill
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RE: Was film suggestions now OT

2002-04-30 Thread TM

Summit is a bit far for me, a friend of mine was down there recently,
mentioned something
like a 7 hr. drive.

Most of my photos are static paddock photos, I didn't (and still don't)
have a long
enough lens to really take trackside photos- if I had seen that 500mm
screwmount Takumar,
I would have bought it. :-)

Taka
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Re: RE: Re: Film suggestions needed

2002-04-30 Thread David Brooks

Hi Taka.No i found the blues(sky) were very vivid,no hue
or colour cast ovet the print.(I found the Fuji Superia
had this about 50% of the time)I also took a few indoor
shots of one of our cats on a blue/red throw rug.The 
blue was very deep. There is one outdoor
horse show that is up on a hill,with a lot of
sky as background.I plan on shooting  a couple there.

Dave


 Begin Original Message 

From: "TM" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Tue, 30 Apr 2002 09:00:08 -0400
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: RE: Re: Film suggestions needed


Dave-
About that Agfa Optima II- when you say the blues are vivid,
does the film have a bluish cast to it overall or is it just that
the color saturation is excellent?

Next week, I'll have time to actually go out and shoot some photos
rather than just talking about it over email. :-)

Taka
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 End Original Message 




Pentax User
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Re: Update on 'dead' 6x7

2002-04-30 Thread Bill D. Casselberry

William Kane wrote:
 
> You're my new best friend!!  Wahoo!  That did the trick. 
> I couldn't figure out how to advance the frames, and had some
> idea that that might be why it wasn't working properly.

Cool - sounds like it may be a good, albeit beat-up, one   :^)
 
> Shutter speeds SOUND as if they are working correctly, so my
> next step is obtaining a lens and some film.  

The shutter is electronicly controlled, so it may be fine.
The non-metering prism is fine - see below for incident metering.
That said, I as often as not remove the prism and use the full
screen below it - especially when I have the body stabilized.

> If I like this, I'll probably opt for a prisim and maybe a handheld 
> meter. (Guess I'll need to actually read a book on metering too!)
 
I picked up (at a rediculous bargain!) a Minolta AutoMeter III,
my first incident meter. Using it makes things so simple! Just
hold it up into the light and transfer the settings to the 6x7.
I wnet for a short jaunt down the Coast to Florence on Sunday
and finished off my last roll of Lumiere down thru the Cape
Perpetua area. Used the tripod on some, but most were either
handheld (f8ish @ 1/250th) or w/ the 6x7 nestled into the
"rice-bag" from some solid support surface like the stone walls
supposed to keep errant autos from plunging over the edge to th
sea far below - anti-pollution controls, I suppose.

It is uncanny how the mass of the 6x7 makes for easy handheld
shooting - 1/125th  thru 1/1000th. It will certainly be w/ me
next weekend (11/12 May) at the 3rd Glastonbury Faire here,
Probably E-100vs and the Fuji 400F slide films, though (to add
to another thread) I'll have a few Portra 400NC's as well. But,
the inability to get decent color prints here and the time-lag
for my outlab have me using E-6 in the 6x7 for the vast majority
of what I shoot w/ it - Nine transparancies fit nicely into some
"baseball card" pages available in the department stores.

Bill
 
-
Bill D. Casselberry ; Photography on the Oregon Coast

http://www.orednet.org/~bcasselb
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
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Re: Was film suggestions now OT

2002-04-30 Thread Stephen Moore

CBWaters wrote:

> You were AT the Rennsport reunion?!!  I felt fortunate 
> to have seen it on SPEED :) Would LOVE to see your pictures.

Ditto on the pictures!

Been kicking myself for a year not making that one. So many
historic Porsches at one venue! Speedvision Online (as it
was then called) led with a photo of Jacky Ickx in the
cockpit of a Porsche F2, looking pensive and kinda...well, old.
(He's one of those drivers I'll always visualize as the fresh-
faced kid he was in the 1970s.)

Brian Redman seems to be able to step over vintage-racing 
politics like few others; he's done a great job with the
Jefferson 500 (Summit Point WV) for going on 11 years now.
For all you Mid-Atlantic gearheads (self included), it's
coming up again May 16th-19th. Maybe it won't rain this year. :-)

Best regards,
Stephen
__ 
"You got a Zarg in here? Are you *nuts*???
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Re[3]: Film suggestions needed

2002-04-30 Thread Bruce Dayton

Taka,

If processed correctly, it does not have any bluish cast.  In fact, I
find that it handles warm, earthy colors very well - reds and browns.
For me, it is probably the closest print film to Velvia.  Not quite as
saturated (could be a good thing), but handles contrast much better
and has reasonable skin tones.  For portraits and weddings I wouldn't
use it, but for most other things, it is a great print film.


Bruce



Tuesday, April 30, 2002, 6:00:08 AM, you wrote:

T> Dave-
T> About that Agfa Optima II- when you say the blues are vivid,
T> does the film have a bluish cast to it overall or is it just that
T> the color saturation is excellent?

T> Next week, I'll have time to actually go out and shoot some photos
T> rather than just talking about it over email. :-)

T> Taka
T> -
T> This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List.  To unsubscribe,
T> go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to
T> visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
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Re: Can anyone recommend a lab for large prints from slides? Please help!

2002-04-30 Thread Jose R. Rodriguez

Sid,

You may want to contact Holland Photo ( http://www.hollandphoto.com/ ) here in Austin, 
TX.  I use them for my Portrait/Wedding photos (negative prints), but they are known 
for their Ilfochrome (formerly known as Cibachrome) prints.  They do very good work, 
but charge accordingly ($$$).

Regards,

Jose R. Rodriguez

> 
> From: Sid Barras <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Date: 2002/05/02 Thu AM 03:30:42 CDT
> To: "[EMAIL PROTECTED]" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: Can anyone recommend a lab for large prints from slides? Please
>   help!
> 
> Hi all,
> 
> I've got several slides I want to blow up into large (20x30 perhaps) 
> prints for an upcoming exhibition. The lab (th only one) here in town 
> has disappointed me on the results of a series I did for a set of 
> posters a Nursing college here in town has lined their entrance hallway 
> with. The dean was happy with them, but I knew  they were poor 
> enlargements compared to  the original slides I provided.
> 
> Now, can anyone suggest a lab? preferably nearby, say Houston, New 
> Orleans  or perhaps Dallas, Baton Rouge or Shreveport?
> 
> Would I want to have "cibachromes" made, or do they not do that very 
> much anymore? I know that my hometown lab will either make a digital 
> file from the slide and enlarge that (poor results) or make an 
> internegative and enlarge that (even worse results)
> 
> So, what would be the better option, considering that I have found a 
> good lab that can do either method, or a cibachrome as well?  (I would 
> like to spend not more than say $75 per photo.)
> 
> If you are a pdmler and have a lab or work at one, i would be happy to 
> work with a fellow pentaxian.
> 
> I have also considered making an internegative myself. I have some of 
> the Kodak comercial  internegative film left  from a project a couple of 
> years ago, but I no longer have the old dichroic enlarger for an 
> adjustable light source...
> 
> I do have some portra 160 fim I could  use to copy the slides with-- 
> would that be perhaps my most cost effective solution, and still get 
> great results on the large print?
> 
> Whoo boy, I've asked to many questions. I stop now, or no one will offer 
> advice without charging by the hour for this extensive a list of "how 
> bout this" stuff.
> 
> anyway, thanks to all who take a crack at this post.
> Sid
> -
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Re: Re: Film suggestions needed

2002-04-30 Thread Bill Owens

IMO Agfa films have excellent color saturation and the most neutral palette
available

Bill  KG4LOV
[EMAIL PROTECTED]


- Original Message -
From: "TM" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Tuesday, April 30, 2002 9:00 AM
Subject: RE: Re: Film suggestions needed


> Dave-
> About that Agfa Optima II- when you say the blues are vivid,
> does the film have a bluish cast to it overall or is it just that
> the color saturation is excellent?
>
> Next week, I'll have time to actually go out and shoot some photos
> rather than just talking about it over email. :-)
>
> Taka
> -
> This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List.  To unsubscribe,
> go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to
> visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
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Rikenon 28-100/4, Chinon pancake, Pentax 85/1.8 M42 in Denver

2002-04-30 Thread [EMAIL PROTECTED]

http://www.jerryscamera.com/cameras.html

Other goodies, too, but the lenses in the title are the less common finds.

[EMAIL PROTECTED]


mail2web - Check your email from the web at
http://mail2web.com/ .
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Re[3]: Film suggestions needed

2002-04-30 Thread Alin Flaider

  Optima II is significantly more saturated than the average film on
  the blue and red ends of the spectrum. Check:

  http://pug.komkon.org/01jul/HereComesTheSun.html

  Despite it's good colour balance and fine grain, beware of the poor
  antihalation protection of the film. Sharp edges between lights and
  shadows are fuzzier than on most other 100 ASAs. Sadly, I had to
  part with it just for this reason.

T> About that Agfa Optima II- when you say the blues are vivid,
T> does the film have a bluish cast to it overall or is it just that
T> the color saturation is excellent?

  Servus, Alin
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Free film/Cheap film

2002-04-30 Thread Rob Brigham

Everybody in the UK buy Amateur Photographer this week.

You get a free roll of 36 exp Kodak EliteChrome Extra Colour.

7dayshop sells it for £2.15 plus p&p
Jessops selss 10 packs for £22.50 ish (less 10%) ie just over £20
AP costs 1.95 and gives you a free film

I am going to buy 10 copies this week!
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Re: How Much Film Do You Carry

2002-04-30 Thread Pål Audun Jensen

Enough
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Re: 10 Things I've learned over the past 4 days

2002-04-30 Thread Christian Skofteland

I can't believe I was lied to by my geeky friends!

Christian

On Tuesday 30 April 2002 02:43, Kevin Waterson wrote:
> On Mon, 29 Apr 2002 23:23:31 -0400
>
> "Christian Skofteland" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> > 8a. "racecar" is the longest single word palindrome in the English
> > language.
>
> hmm, I thought is was DETARTRATED or The Oxford English Dictionary lists
> the word 'TATTARRATTAT' which it says is the work of James Joyce in
> Ulysses: "I knew his tattarrattat at the door."
>
> Kevin
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For Aaron:OT Re:blocked mail

2002-04-30 Thread David . Mann

Bill Owens wrote:

> Here is an email a received from my ISP regarding mail blocked by
> passport.ca
[snip]

Bill,

It sounds like your ISP is running an open mail relay (spammers use these
to hide their identity but I won't go into the details), and they've been
blacklisted as a result - as they should be, in my opinion.  I can't test
it for sure because the PDML archives don't give the sender's email address
(which prevents spam harvesting)... which is why I can't reply to you
privately :)

Not all ISPs use the blacklisting services which is why mail to most people
(eg Hotmail) gets through.  I couldn't believe that your ISP had the nerve
to suggest you get your friends to change ISP's!  If I were you I'd dump
them and go elsewhere.

Cheers,

- Dave.
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Bizarre swap

2002-04-30 Thread mike wilson

Hi,

I have a friend who has a Sinclair Spectrum+ 128 (in its box)
plus a bin bag (i.e. at least 100, maybe more than double that)
of games.

Any masochists want to swap it for Pentax gear?  If interested,
contact offlist for fuller details.

Ta muchly,

mike
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Re: Lens Coatings

2002-04-30 Thread Camdir

In a message dated 30/04/02 12:47:29 GMT Daylight Time, 
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

<< At 14:22 30.4.2002 +0800, you wrote:
 >SMC for Pentax
 >T* for Carl Zeiss
 >
 >Why do N, C or M not use similar name for their lenses?
 
 Just because they are embarassed and would be happier if
 everyone would just forget to ask about their coatings ? ;-)
  >>
Nikon Integrated Coating (7layers)
Canon Super Spectral Coating
Minolta - they're all uncoated aren't they? :)

Peter
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RE: Re: Film suggestions needed

2002-04-30 Thread TM

Dave-
About that Agfa Optima II- when you say the blues are vivid,
does the film have a bluish cast to it overall or is it just that
the color saturation is excellent?

Next week, I'll have time to actually go out and shoot some photos
rather than just talking about it over email. :-)

Taka
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  1   2   >