Re: [pinhole-discussion] F-stop question

2003-02-22 Thread Bill Erickson
F-stop questionCalculate the area of your aperture (pi x radius squared).
Calculate the area of an f22 aperture at 50mm (50mm divided by 22 =diameter.
Area =(1/2diameter)(1/2diameter) x pi. Divide the area of your aperture into
the area of f22. The result equals 40. Multiply f22 metered exposure by 40
to get metered exposure, and then apply appropriate reciprocity failure
multiplier. It's easier than it sounds. The basic notion is that the amount
of light delivered is equal to the area of the aperture times the time. You
calculate how may times the area of your aperture goes into the area of f22.
This is your multiplier. I was puzzled by how hard this seems to be to
explain until I once asked for a show of hands how many people could
calulate the area of a circle. Three out of fifteen raised their hands.
- Original Message -
From: Jason Edleman
To: pinhole-discussion@p at ???
Sent: Monday, February 17, 2003 11:34 AM
Subject: [pinhole-discussion] F-stop question


All,
I have a 50mm 4x5 pinhole camera with an f-stop of f/138 (perfect for focal
length of 25mm).  The appropriate f/stop for 50mm is f/176.  Does anyone
have a calculation for figuring out the exposure compensation?
Thanks in advance -
Jason
:...:
Jason
:...:





Re: [pinhole-discussion] D'Arcy Power article on-line

2003-02-21 Thread Bill Erickson
Thanks. I remembered that once you mentioned it. Worked fine.
- Original Message -
From: John Yeo jonn...@thegrid.net
To: pinhole-discussion@p at ???
Sent: Friday, February 21, 2003 7:45 PM
Subject: Re: [pinhole-discussion] D'Arcy Power article on-line


 Try going to http://idea.uwosh.edu/nick/pinholephoto.htm and finding the
 link there. Then right click on it, and click on save target as.  That
 will save it to your hard drive, and you should be able to open it with
 acrobat reader from there.

 John

 - Original Message -
 From: Bill Erickson erick...@hickorytech.net
 To: pinhole-discussion@p at ???
 Sent: Friday, February 21, 2003 11:59 AM
 Subject: Re: [pinhole-discussion] D'Arcy Power article on-line


  I can't get the document to open.
  - Original Message -
  From: Nick Dvoracek dvora...@vaxa.cis.uwosh.edu
  To: pinhole-discussion@p at ???
  Sent: Thursday, February 20, 2003 4:45 PM
  Subject: [pinhole-discussion] D'Arcy Power article on-line
 
 
   A while ago there was a thread about an article by H. D'Arcy Power:
   Advanced Pinhole Photography from The Photo Miniature from July
1905.
  
   I got a photocopy through interlibrary loan and created an Adobe
   Acrobat document which I've posted on my website
   http://idea.uwosh.edu/nick/pinholephoto.htm
  
   I looked into the copyright issue and anything published before 1923
is
   in the public domain (http://www.unc.edu/~unclng/public-d.htm) so I'm
   pretty sure I'm not infringing anyone's copyright.
  
   I'm afraid it's kind of big, 3.6 MB, but that's not bad for a 46 page
   article scanned at high resolution (text and line art at 300 dpi,
   images, grey scale at 150 dpi).
  
   I've turned my interlibrary loan wizard loose on the citations he
gives
   to other works and maybe will get those posted also.
   --
   Nick Dvoracek   dvora...@uwosh.edu
   Director of Media Services   Voice: 920-424-7363
   University of Wisconsin OshkoshFax:   920-424-7324
   http://idea.uwosh.edu/media_services/home.html
   http://idea.uwosh.edu/nick/handouts.htm
  
  
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Re: [pinhole-discussion] D'Arcy Power article on-line

2003-02-21 Thread Bill Erickson
I can't get the document to open.
- Original Message - 
From: Nick Dvoracek dvora...@vaxa.cis.uwosh.edu
To: pinhole-discussion@p at ???
Sent: Thursday, February 20, 2003 4:45 PM
Subject: [pinhole-discussion] D'Arcy Power article on-line


 A while ago there was a thread about an article by H. D'Arcy Power: 
 Advanced Pinhole Photography from The Photo Miniature from July 1905.
 
 I got a photocopy through interlibrary loan and created an Adobe 
 Acrobat document which I've posted on my website 
 http://idea.uwosh.edu/nick/pinholephoto.htm
 
 I looked into the copyright issue and anything published before 1923 is 
 in the public domain (http://www.unc.edu/~unclng/public-d.htm) so I'm 
 pretty sure I'm not infringing anyone's copyright.
 
 I'm afraid it's kind of big, 3.6 MB, but that's not bad for a 46 page 
 article scanned at high resolution (text and line art at 300 dpi, 
 images, grey scale at 150 dpi).
 
 I've turned my interlibrary loan wizard loose on the citations he gives 
 to other works and maybe will get those posted also.
 --
 Nick Dvoracek   dvora...@uwosh.edu
 Director of Media Services   Voice: 920-424-7363
 University of Wisconsin OshkoshFax:   920-424-7324
 http://idea.uwosh.edu/media_services/home.html
 http://idea.uwosh.edu/nick/handouts.htm
 
 
 ___
 Post to the list as PLAIN TEXT only - no HTML 
 Pinhole-Discussion mailing list
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Re: [pinhole-discussion] New photo show

2003-01-30 Thread erickson
You're biting off a very big chunk. Taking on a new method, thirty day time
limit and very large prints. I've tried most of them, and I think that the
easiest and most foolproof is cyanotype. you will need large format contact
negs for any of these anyway. Cyanotype exposure can be maddening in northen
climes in winter.
- Original Message -
From: Catherine Just blue_medic...@yahoo.com
To: Pinhole-Discussion@p at ???
Sent: Wednesday, January 29, 2003 3:43 PM
Subject: [pinhole-discussion] New photo show


 Hi Everyone,

 I've bene getting the BEST mail lately - Thank you to
 everyone who is sending images! I hope you enjoy mine
 as well.

 I just spoke with a gallery owner and showed her my
 new series of pinholes I shot while in England. My
 boyfriend shot images with a digital camera and we are
 trying to have a show that has both our work. It's
 actually very interesting to see digital versus
 pinhole. The oldest technique and the newest, of the
 same place.

 He is going to print them in the most recent
 developing practice - like Iris printing, and I want
 to do an old process like platinum palladium, or
 something along those lines and I'm thinking I want to
 print BIG. I want 30x40. But may go 20x24. I think he
 is printing small.

 Curious if you know of any workshops in alternative
 printing practices that you recommend. I've seen some
 - there is one in Yosemite on Platinum.palladium that
 looks amazing.

 I LOVE the collodion look but that's done on the glass
 plate before exposure. ( Can you do collodion with a
 pinhole?? )

 Any workshop experiences or advice will be great.

 I would like to start printing in a month. I just need
 to decide which process would look the best for this
 type of imagery. Since I was holding the camers for 45
 second exposures - the images are pretty soft. and
 have motion to them.

 Sincerely,

 Catherine

 =
 Catherine Just Photography
 Weddings~Portraits~Fine Art
 http://www.catherinejust.com
 619.294.3195


 Don't just state your intent, Live it. ~Jerry Seiner Jr.

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Re: [pinhole-discussion] off topic: photoshop tutorial book?

2003-01-20 Thread erickson
I've never found  a book that I thought told me very much. A friend likes
Photoshop Restoration and Retouching. It's really pretty intuitive, once
you grasp the parallels with the wet darkroom.
- Original Message -
From: Peter Wiklund peter.wikl...@journalistgruppen.se
To: pinhole-discussion@p at ???
Sent: Monday, January 20, 2003 2:55 AM
Subject: [pinhole-discussion] off topic: photoshop tutorial book?



 Sorry off topic, but since there are so many with great knowledge on the
 list

 I want to start doing darkroom work in the computer, and want a tutorial
 book with information on photographic ways of usiung Photoshop.
 What I mean is that I'm _not_ interested in Photoshop-filter-effects, nor
 collageing.
 I like the look that you get from normal darkroom work, but want to do my
 dodging, burning, cropping, contrast adjustments etc in the computer.
 I will mostly work in black-and-white to start with.

 There are plenty of Photoshop-books on the market, but most of them seem
to
 be crappy.

 Is there any good book?
 Or perhaps a good magazine?

 Some of my (color) work can be seen here: http://hem.passagen.se/pinhole

 /peter


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Re: [pinhole-discussion] pinhole cibachrome

2003-01-18 Thread erickson
I found that with incandescent light and no filtration I was quite happy
with the color balance, with a speed of about 2.5 I used an 85A outdoors at
speed of 1.75 but I didn't like the color balance. I developed in  JOBO,
which worked fine. A friend did a lot of these at or near sunset, i.e.,
natural color shift filtration. I didn't see the results. Mark Dungan, if
you are still on board, could you comment?
- Original Message -
From: TIM MIDKIFF ku...@vci.net
To: pinhole-discussion@p at ???
Sent: Saturday, January 18, 2003 8:16 AM
Subject: [pinhole-discussion] pinhole cibachrome



 hello everyone,

   I'm looking for information to research ULF pinhole cibachromes.
 Is anyone aware of any printed material or web-source about this other
than
 all the W.A.Wright images posted on the web. I'm really interested in the
 color correction needed and processing requirements. I'm currently using a
 16x20 maple wood camera that I built.

 many thanks, tim


 TIMOTHY S. MIDKIFF



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Re: [pinhole-discussion] Pinhole vision

2003-01-13 Thread erickson
Well put. I'll briefly share a similar experience.I had wondered what sort
of images I might get with spontaneous pinholes, naturally occuring small
apertures. I took a cardboard box 20 long, taped 8x10 paper inside one end,
cut an opening in the other and attached a Ritz soda cracker over the hole
with peanut butter, light proofed it by putting the whole apparatus in a
black plastic garbage bag with only the tiny hole in the cracker showing,
and made my exposure. Wonderfully sharp and clear view of the houses across
the street. I then proceeded to do a series of images of various vegetables
and fruits with the same setup, photographing food with food. The last
image was of leeks, which I then cooked in a soup and ate. My dog licked the
cracker off the end of the camera. True story. I posted a few of the images
here a year or so ago.
- Original Message -
From: Michael Healy mjhe...@kcnet.com
To: pinhole-discussion@p at ???
Sent: Sunday, January 12, 2003 10:41 PM
Subject: [pinhole-discussion] Pinhole vision


 I've been meaning to post some thoughts in reply to Andy's email of a
couple
 weeks ago, but in the new year I've been dragging my rear end. Sorry.

 Andy, you posted your 12/30 suggestion in reply to my bemused wonderings
 about how one goes about getting 25mm of bellows out of 4x5. Your
suggestion
 intrigued me. So last week I made a pinhole camera out of an empty
25-sheet
 box of 4x5. I felt pretty excited at the prospects. It turned out to be an
 adventure, though not along lines I'd **planned** it to be.

 I went out into the desert here, armed w/ my camera, plus a clamp so I
 could attach it to my tripod, and a #29 filter, and a changing bag, and
some
 additional film. But that was all. No bag of goodies. No Polaroid back.
 Nothing. Strangely, I immediately felt naked, having no authentic
EQUIPMENT
 in hand, not even an actual camera. I felt child-like, too, having a FAKE
 camera in hand. No, not a fake camera but a toy, something as much like a
 true camera as a child's invisible teddy bear is like a real friend. Very
 strange. It also made me appreciate that bona fide equipment pushes the
 spectators aside, quiets them, impresses them or at least chases them
away.
 Suddenly all I was doing was playing Mr. McGoo: only I knew that what I
was
 doing was genuine. Or rather, only I hoped it was. Everyone else would
have
 thought I was a lunatic.

 The changing bag was practically a disaster. Squatting on the desert
floor,
 in the dust, fumbling for pieces of tape inside the bag, so I could make
the
 film hold to the camera back, failing to get the lens cap taped on
 precisely -- all of it made me feel like a kid again. A stupid one. And I
 didn't go there to feel like a kid, I went there to take great photos. I
 went there to express my vision. G.

 After fixing them, I eagerly pulled the sheets out of the developing
tank --
 and discovered that I could see straight through all four of them! They
were
 perfectly clear. I nearly threw them all away. Turned out that at 18mm,
the
 image circle is only about 50mm, which is not very much on a 4x5 sheet of
 film. But they did turn out, all of them. And they are so very magical,
too.
 Two landscapes, an interior, and even a tabletop! Maybe good, maybe bad, I
 don't know. Who cares. They were only an experiment. But I will say this:
 the eye that recorded those images was not my eye. I have no idea whose
 eye that was, or who could ever see like that. If today we lived in the
 Middle Ages, perhaps I would believe that an angel (devil?) guided my
 unknowing hand.

 Then something happened that was like an episode from a Jorges Luis Borges
 story. For it was two days later that I received M. Jean Dabaus'
delightful
 and profoundly timely email about the eye, in which he quoted Evgen
 Bacvar's question. I am not a blind photographer, and I am not going to
try
 to sound as though I comprehend the concept. Of course I do not, I cannot.

 Yet -- yet, I myself did stand out there naked to the world with this
silly
 little cardboard box of a camera. I had an idea, yes, but I had no idea
what
 that clumsy camera would see, what it even was capable of seeing. Truly
 shots in the dark, to borrow a phrase. So when I read Jean's words, I
 thought to myself, how did he know?! Why, I recognize this problem. In a
way
 (respectfully), in a way I realized that when I was out there that day, I
 was indeed a blind photographer. I had no idea what I was seeing. I had no
 idea what image I would achieve, or even whether I would achieve any image
 at all. All I was armed with was a vision (a cloudy one...), and a hope --
 or not even really a hope, but a wish -- that we (my silly camera and I)
 would reach a kind of agreement. If not, then perhaps at least we would
 produce a picture I could live with. But what would happen? I had no idea,
 absolutely none. For me, after all these years of seeing the image follow
so
 closely on the heels of conceived idea, this 

Re: [pinhole-discussion] duplicate messages

2003-01-11 Thread erickson
Thanks. This reply will be a test. 
- Original Message - 
From: James Kellar ja...@kellar.com
To: pinhole-discussion@p at ???
Sent: Saturday, January 11, 2003 1:34 PM
Subject: Re: [pinhole-discussion] duplicate messages


 The address  has been deleted from the database. This should stop any 
 duplicate messages.
 
 
 James
 
 On Saturday, January 11, 2003, at 05:17  AM, erick...@hickorytech.net 
 wrote:
 
  Every message I get or send appears in duplicate. I suspect this is 
  due to
  my having changed e-mail addresses. Please eliminate the
  erick...@ic.mankato.mn.us one. Thank you.
 
 
 
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 James Kellar
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 http://www.???/discussion/
 pinh...@jameskellar.com
 
 
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Re: [pinhole-discussion] duplicate messages

2003-01-11 Thread erickson
Can't do it. Both come back with the current e-mail address.
- Original Message -
From: George L Smyth glsm...@yahoo.com
To: pinhole-discussion@p at ???
Sent: Saturday, January 11, 2003 8:14 AM
Subject: Re: [pinhole-discussion] duplicate messages


 I would think that you should unsubscribe the one you do not wish to use.

 Cheers -

 george


 --- erick...@hickorytech.net wrote:
  Every message I get or send appears in duplicate. I suspect this is due
to
  my having changed e-mail addresses. Please eliminate the
  erick...@ic.mankato.mn.us one. Thank you.
 
 
 
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 =
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 DRiP Investing - http://DRiPInvesting.org

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Re: [pinhole-discussion] Human eye

2003-01-05 Thread erickson
Another thing occurs to me. The camera analogy is also limited by the fact
that camera shutters open and close, while light streams into the human eye
continuously. The operative 'shutter speed would have to be the duration of
exposure to the rod or cone required to trigger nerve conduction. I don't
know whether there is a trasmission period followed by a refractory period,
which would equate to shutter speed, or not.
- Original Message -
From: erick...@hickorytech.net
To: pinhole-discussion@p at ???
Sent: Sunday, January 05, 2003 11:30 AM
Subject: Re: [pinhole-discussion] Human eye


 Here is some information I have. How it applies I'm not sure. The eye is
 only the aperture, lens and sensing apparatus. Because the eye is attached
 to the brain it would make more sense to use a digital camera as a model
 rather than film camera. The mind can read an image and give a response in
 as little as 0.04 seconds- a professional pingpong players response time,
 for instance. Nerve transmission time mind to brain can be measured by
 measuring cortical evoked potential responses to visual stimuli. I might
 have once know the limiting values but I don't recall them. A big name in
 research in this area is Meichenbaum, if you want to look it up. As for
 aperture, the lens to retina distance is roughly 25 mm. Maximum pupil
size,
 i.e. aperture diameter, is maybe 8 mm in an adult, so the maximum F stop
 would be 25/8= 3.1. Minimum aperture would be about 25/2 for 'pinpoint
 pupils, an F stop of 12.5. I think that the eye processes light sensation
 somewhat differently at low light levels, so film speed would be a
guess.
 Remember too that the eye and brain cannot distinguish as separate images
 any sequence more rapid than about 14/second. That is the basis for movies
 and television, sequences of still images projected faster than the eye
can
 distinguish, thus blending them into apparent continuous motion.

 I- Original Message -
 From: George L Smyth glsm...@yahoo.com
 To: pinhole-discussion@p at ???
 Sent: Sunday, January 05, 2003 10:53 AM
 Subject: Re: [pinhole-discussion] Human eye


  On 22 Jul 2002, at 11:16, eco...@aol.com wrote:
 
   I know this is not strictly pinhole, but I wondered if
   anyone had access to the average human eye values for the
   camera variables. ie Respective - film speed, shutter speed,
   aperture, focus range, depth of field etc. Thanks
   Ellis
 
 
  When I looked into shutter speed many years ago, I came upon the
 conclusion
  that the eye's shutter speed is approximately 1/100 second.  You can
 verify
  this by taking successive pictures of a waterfall.  We all know that
 slowing
  down the shutter speed to a second or more will make for silky water,
 which is
  not what we see.  From there, take pictures with faster and faster
speeds
  (don't forget to take notes).  When you get the results, compare the
 pictures
  with what you see and make the decision for yourself.
 
  Cheers -
 
  george
 
  =
  Handmade Photographic Images - http://GLSmyth.com
  DRiP Investing - http://DRiPInvesting.org
 
  __
  Do you Yahoo!?
  Yahoo! Mail Plus - Powerful. Affordable. Sign up now.
  http://mailplus.yahoo.com
 
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Re: [pinhole-discussion] Human eye

2003-01-05 Thread erickson
Here is some information I have. How it applies I'm not sure. The eye is
only the aperture, lens and sensing apparatus. Because the eye is attached
to the brain it would make more sense to use a digital camera as a model
rather than film camera. The mind can read an image and give a response in
as little as 0.04 seconds- a professional pingpong players response time,
for instance. Nerve transmission time mind to brain can be measured by
measuring cortical evoked potential responses to visual stimuli. I might
have once know the limiting values but I don't recall them. A big name in
research in this area is Meichenbaum, if you want to look it up. As for
aperture, the lens to retina distance is roughly 25 mm. Maximum pupil size,
i.e. aperture diameter, is maybe 8 mm in an adult, so the maximum F stop
would be 25/8= 3.1. Minimum aperture would be about 25/2 for 'pinpoint
pupils, an F stop of 12.5. I think that the eye processes light sensation
somewhat differently at low light levels, so film speed would be a guess.
Remember too that the eye and brain cannot distinguish as separate images
any sequence more rapid than about 14/second. That is the basis for movies
and television, sequences of still images projected faster than the eye can
distinguish, thus blending them into apparent continuous motion.

I- Original Message -
From: George L Smyth glsm...@yahoo.com
To: pinhole-discussion@p at ???
Sent: Sunday, January 05, 2003 10:53 AM
Subject: Re: [pinhole-discussion] Human eye


 On 22 Jul 2002, at 11:16, eco...@aol.com wrote:

  I know this is not strictly pinhole, but I wondered if
  anyone had access to the average human eye values for the
  camera variables. ie Respective - film speed, shutter speed,
  aperture, focus range, depth of field etc. Thanks
  Ellis


 When I looked into shutter speed many years ago, I came upon the
conclusion
 that the eye's shutter speed is approximately 1/100 second.  You can
verify
 this by taking successive pictures of a waterfall.  We all know that
slowing
 down the shutter speed to a second or more will make for silky water,
which is
 not what we see.  From there, take pictures with faster and faster speeds
 (don't forget to take notes).  When you get the results, compare the
pictures
 with what you see and make the decision for yourself.

 Cheers -

 george

 =
 Handmade Photographic Images - http://GLSmyth.com
 DRiP Investing - http://DRiPInvesting.org

 __
 Do you Yahoo!?
 Yahoo! Mail Plus - Powerful. Affordable. Sign up now.
 http://mailplus.yahoo.com

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Re: [pinhole-discussion] Still Life Compositions

2002-12-29 Thread erickson
I'll defend a 1 Fl on 4x5. The first camera I ever built had 0.75 Fl and
I've had great fun with it. It has a wonderfully wide acceptance angle and
makes a nice round image on 4x5 film. Placed 0.75 inches away from the
object it gives a life size image.
- Original Message -
From: Michael Healy mjhe...@kcnet.com
To: pinhole-discussion@p at ???
Sent: Saturday, December 28, 2002 10:23 PM
Subject: Re: [pinhole-discussion] Still Life Compositions


 I need to ask you a dumb question. You are able to get 25 mm of focal
length
 on 4x5? What equipment are you employing, that you can do this? That's a
 separation of 1 lousy inch from pinhole to film plane, isn't it? I'd love
to
 try that myself. My monorail and bag bellows **AND** recessed lens board
 allow me a fat, gross, long-length 50 mm. What is your trick?

 Okay, another dumb question. With that kind of coverage on tabletop, it
kind
 of seems like you're going to get the doorway behind you in the image,
plus
 six miles down the length of the hallway, to say nothing of your own
entire
 carcass. So I'm kind of wondering, why are you working with 25 mm? That it
 distorts, would be one good reason. But you'll get distortion with 40-60
mm,
 won't you? Do you have to stick to 25 mm? If I didn't like it that I was
 getting so much into the frame, that probably would be my first point of
 reassessment. Give yourself some bellows. I mean, unless you can position
 your camera so it's a quarter of an inch from your subject matter. I tried
 that recently w/ table top myself. The camera actually cast a shadow onto
my
 subject. Impossible.

 Mike Healy

 - Original Message -
 From: Mark Andrews mandr...@dragonbones.com
 To: pinhole-discussion@p at ???
 Sent: Saturday, December 28, 2002 6:47 PM
 Subject: [pinhole-discussion] Still Life Compositions


 I am novice pinhole photographer looking for some advice regarding
shooting
 still life compositions with my 4X5 Pinhole Camera (25mm focal length).

 My issue is that I am trying to limit the elements in my composition, but
 tend to pick up a significant amount of the surrounding area no mater how
 close I am to the still life composition. Is it possible to limit the
 surrounding area? I've seen other pinhole still lifes with a limited
 composition--perhaps this was accomplished in the darkroom?

 Many thanks in advance for any advice you can offer.


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Re: [pinhole-discussion] Still Life Compositions

2002-12-28 Thread erickson
You can either get closer to your composition, or choose a neutral
background, or selectively light your composition and leave the background
darker. Or you can burn in the background during printing.
- Original Message -
From: Mark Andrews mandr...@dragonbones.com
To: pinhole-discussion@p at ???
Sent: Saturday, December 28, 2002 7:47 PM
Subject: [pinhole-discussion] Still Life Compositions


 I am novice pinhole photographer looking for some advice regarding
shooting
 still life compositions with my 4X5 Pinhole Camera (25mm focal length).

 My issue is that I am trying to limit the elements in my composition, but
 tend to pick up a significant amount of the surrounding area no mater how
 close I am to the still life composition. Is it possible to limit the
 surrounding area? I've seen other pinhole still lifes with a limited
 composition--perhaps this was accomplished in the darkroom?

 Many thanks in advance for any advice you can offer.


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[pinhole-discussion] digital pinhole.

2002-12-22 Thread erickson
Here is another interpretation of digital pinhole. I made this image using a
tiny hole in a cracker served at the artist's reception for a digital
photography show I'm in. Had to keep my priorities straight.
www.???/discussion/upload/gallery2002.php?pic=digital_copy.jp
g
Cracker attached over hole in cardboard lensboard of view camera, 12 inch
extension. Polaroid 53, no manipulation of image.






Re: [pinhole-discussion] What is Diffraction?

2002-12-12 Thread erickson
Thanks for the information. Eric Renner calls people like us techno-nerds.
But I know for a fact that he knows all this stuff too but won't admit it.
- Original Message -
From: Guillermo pen...@rogers.com
To: pinhole-discussion@p at ???
Sent: Wednesday, December 11, 2002 9:43 PM
Subject: Re: [pinhole-discussion] What is Diffraction?



 - Original Message -
 From: erick...@hickorytech.net
 To: pinhole-discussion@p at ???
 Sent: Wednesday, December 11, 2002 9:27 PM
 Subject: Re: [pinhole-discussion] What is Diffraction?


  Here's a question that has troubled me for a long time, since we've
gained
  the attention of the physicists among us. If the optimal image occurs
when
  all light waves are 'in phase, which the Young article says occurs at
the
  junction between the nearfield and farfield diffraction patterns
(whatever
  that is), is there another point further on where the various waves
again
  come into simultaneous phase sync, and thus optimal sharpness?
 Theoretically
  there should be, but how far?

 Physicists analyze diffraction using either near or far field methods.
 Far-field means the source of light is far relative to the aperture size,
 the wave front arriving at the aperture is assumed to be flat.  Near-field
 is the apposite, wave front is assumed to arrive curve shaped.  This, I
 believe, also affects or determines how far from the aperture the
near-field
 diffraction reaches and how far from the aperture the far field
diffraction
 starts.  There is a gray area in between, this area can be assumed to
 separate near and far field diffractions voiding any juncture of them,
and
 as Young's article says: here, the image is not amenable to description
by
 simple arguments.   When you talk about in phase you may be thinking
 about how a zoneplate works, where the aim is carefully position the edges
 of the clear rings so the diffractions caused by all of those edges
 positively interfere at the focal point and therefore add up their
 intensity. Pinhole does not work like that.

 For my view of how zoneplates work, pls read:
 http://members.rogers.com/penate/zoneplate.html
 It talks a bit about the near and far field diffraction, also.

 Don't quote me on all this pls, this is just a layman's view of the topic.

 Guillermo



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Re: [pinhole-discussion] wondering

2002-12-11 Thread erickson
It occurs to me that lack of sharpness in pinhole images is not inherent to
the nature of diffraction photography. It is caused by lack of precision in
matching the diameter of the pinhole to the distance to the film, or in less
than perfect pinholes. Thus it could be said to be a lovable blemish
attributable to the operator rather than an essential characteristic of the
process to be defended against heresy. Or something like that.
- Original Message -
From: Mike Vande Bunt mike.vandeb...@mixcom.com
To: pinhole-discussion@p at ???
Sent: Wednesday, December 11, 2002 1:04 AM
Subject: Re: [pinhole-discussion] wondering


 I understand the sentiment expressed here, but the short answer is
 because you can't.

 There is no practical way to manipulate a lens photo to make it look
 like one shot with a pinhole. You can make it fizzy, but that's not the
 same thing.  (If you stop a lens down to f/125 you can get a pinhol-
 like shot, but you can get the same shot by stopping the lens down to
 f/125 and removing all the glass elements from it...)

 I would say that 95% of the time, sharpening added added to a scanned
 pinhole shot is to correct for problems caused by the scanning process.
  The sharpening is not (usually) being added to make the pinhile shot
 look better, but to make it look more like the original.

 Mike Vande Bunt


 Jean Hanson wrote:

 About the message two days ago; a member took a pinhole image,
 sharpened it in Adobe or a digital method, and printed it out. I
 wonder why we don't just take traditional  lens photographs and smear
 them a little and print them out to look like pinhole work. What is it
 that we are doing?  I love pinhole photography and am retired from
 traditional photo studio work. So my sister asked me recently, why are
 you and your friends intent on taking bad pictures?  I have always felt
 we had a kind of philosophy...we were trying to see the world, or time,
 or light  another way. And I am not down on digitalbut it is hard to
 explain to non- participants that we really are doing something, and
 something important. If we sharpen the images to look like better
 conventional photos, is something being lost? The mystery? The
 understanding of an almost occult medium? An atempt to see what light is
 really doing as it hits and wraps around an object?  What can I tell my
 sister? Jean
 
 
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Re: [pinhole-discussion] digital pinhole?

2002-12-10 Thread erickson
I used a pinhole bodycap on my nikon D1X. You can calibrate the exposures by
just looking at the LCD and trying again. All in all I didn't like the
process or the results. It seemed like too much horsing around with
machinery, and the acceptance angle is pretty narrow.
- Original Message -
From: Fox, Robert r...@aarp.org
To: pinhole-discussion@p at ???
Sent: Tuesday, December 10, 2002 8:36 AM
Subject: [pinhole-discussion] digital pinhole?


 Good discussion on this topic.

 Has anyone tried to convert a digital camera to pinhole?  I'm guessing
that
 the results would be poor since digital ccds do not handle long exposures
 well at all, resulting in a lot of digital noise and artifacts. But who
 knows, it might look interesting..

 I would enjoy tearing open a few of those consumer digital cameras though
 and installing a pinhole!  Surely someone out there has already done
this??

 R.J.


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Re: [pinhole-discussion] wondering

2002-12-10 Thread erickson
I had some of the same thoughts. But one can't be a Luddite about it. The
Luddites invented sabotage, throwing their wooden shoes (sabots) into the
newly invented machinery which they believed would destroy work as they knew
it. The digital darkroom gives much to the process of creativity. It gives
the possibility of printing to those without real darkrooms. The essence
of pinhole will have the strength to stand on its own, and need not be
defended against the advance of science. - Original Message -
From: Jean Hanson jhan...@pon.net
To: pinhole-discussion-request@p at ???
pinhole-discussion@p at ???
Sent: Monday, December 09, 2002 6:53 PM
Subject: [pinhole-discussion] wondering


 About the message two days ago; a member took a pinhole image,
 sharpened it in Adobe or a digital method, and printed it out. I
 wonder why we don't just take traditional  lens photographs and smear
 them a little and print them out to look like pinhole work. What is it
 that we are doing?  I love pinhole photography and am retired from
 traditional photo studio work. So my sister asked me recently, why are
 you and your friends intent on taking bad pictures?  I have always felt
 we had a kind of philosophy...we were trying to see the world, or time,
 or light  another way. And I am not down on digitalbut it is hard to
 explain to non- participants that we really are doing something, and
 something important. If we sharpen the images to look like better
 conventional photos, is something being lost? The mystery? The
 understanding of an almost occult medium? An atempt to see what light is
 really doing as it hits and wraps around an object?  What can I tell my
 sister? Jean


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Re: [pinhole-discussion] ballpark pinhole exposures for a gift pinhole camera?

2002-12-02 Thread erickson
Just an intuitive guess, but the times sound a little on the short side. For
night exposures, I expose from a half hour after sunset until a half hour
before sunrise. Gives decent shadow detail without washing evrything out.
- Original Message -
From: Philip willarney pwillar...@yahoo.com
To: pinhole-discussion@p at ???
Sent: Monday, December 02, 2002 4:30 PM
Subject: [pinhole-discussion] ballpark pinhole exposures for a gift pinhole
camera?


 I'm converting several cheapie 35mm cameras to pinhole
 cameras as gifts for my nieces and nephews (remove
 shutter  lens, poke  sand pinhole in bit of aluminum
 pop can).  I want to put an exposure guide (a variant
 on the old sunny-16 rule) on a sticker on the back to
 get them started, and wondered of this sounded about
 right to folks (I'm basing this on my own dabbling,
 but my records aren't great (my exposure notebook got
 washed!)(the focal length is about 40 mm, and I
 haven't figured out an exact f-stop for the pinholes
 yet).

 pwillar...@yahoo.com

 Use ASA 100 film
 Bright sun: 2-4 seconds
 Partly shaded on sunny day: 4-10 seconds
 Full shade: 10-20 seconds
 Cloudy day: 10-20 seconds
 Night: try 15 minutes, 1 hour, 2 hours, 4 hours,
 (guess, and try a couple of different exposures)
 Inside, lit by bright window: 1-4 minutes
 Inside, lit by light bulbs: 2-10 minutes
 Inside, dim: try 15 minutes, 1 hour, 2 hours, 4 hours


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Re: [pinhole-discussion] cyano on canvas

2002-11-26 Thread erickson
yes, the primer is your problem. There's nothing for the chemical to soak
into. Anybody know of something he can put on it?
- Original Message -
From: dennis vinciguerra vinciguer...@compuserve.com
To: pinhole-discussion@p at ???
Sent: Tuesday, November 26, 2002 8:05 PM
Subject: [pinhole-discussion] cyano on canvas


 Recently picked up a few cheap acrylic primed canvas panels for
 experimentation with cyanotypes. I brushed the chemicals on in the normal
 manner, allowed sufficient time to dry and then proper exposure .
 Immediately after placing the panels in cool water, the entire image
washed
 off. Is the acrylic primer my problem ? Any suggestions ?

 Thanks in advance,
 Dennis

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[pinhole-discussion] digital contact negatives.

2002-11-24 Thread erickson
There's been quite a bit of talk about digitally produced contact negatives
lately. so I thought I would share a strategy that seems to work well. Start
with a grey scale positive. There are two ways to increase contrast and
promote adequate density in the negative. One is to raise the middle portion
of the grey scales curve (image/adjustments/curves). This is a very powerful
method with which it is easy to over shoot. Tweak the curve maybe a little
less than you want as an endpoint. then fine tune with
image/adjustments/brightness-contrast. Then invert the image to a negative
(image/adjustments/invert) and repeat the same steps. Then print on
Pictorico brand overhead transparency material. Of course, you also need to
develop an eye for those images which will translate well to alternative
processes. In my hands, at least, not all do.





Re: [pinhole-discussion] Dan Burkholders Book

2002-11-22 Thread erickson
Burkholters book recommends, and I heartily agree, using Pictorico brand
overhead transparency sheets. They are a good deal more expensive than
ordinary ones, but they seem to be the only ones that hold the ink well
enough to build density. Search for Pictrico on the web and you'll find
it. They ship very promptly. I'm having a harder time with it getting
adequate density for cyanotype han for platinum.
- Original Message -
From: Mike Vande Bunt mike.vandeb...@mixcom.com
To: pinhole-discussion@p at ???
Sent: Thursday, November 21, 2002 9:47 PM
Subject: Re: [pinhole-discussion] Dan Burkholders Book


 Perhaps this is oversimplifying it, but what about inkjet transparency
 paper?  I have never had occasion to use it (I have used the laser
 printer equivalent for non-photo printing), but I am pretty sure that I
 have seen that ink jet transparency sheets are available.  That should
 eliminate the neet to wax or oil the paper.

 Mike Vande Bunt


 Andy Schmitt wrote:

 1. Dan's book is great, everybody I've talked to has used it well..
 2. a .psd is a Photoshop native type file. You'll need a program capable
of
 reading it... Not sure who else does but there may be something a2 their
 site:
 www.adobe.com
 
 have a great day
 andy
 
 -Original Message-
 From: pinhole-discussion-admin@p at ???
 [mailto:pinhole-discussion-admin@p at ???]On Behalf Of
 bendur...@aol.com
 Sent: Thursday, November 21, 2002 8:16 AM
 To: pinhole-discussion@p at ???
 Subject: [pinhole-discussion] Dan Burkholders Book
 
 
 Hello
 Has anyone tried making inkjet negatives using directions from Dan
 Burkholders book? And if so were they succesfull?
 Also Does anyone know how to convert images scanned and/or manipulated in
 photoshop on a mac, so they can be view and manipulated in photoshop on a
 pc, does typing psd on the end of the file work?
 Cheers
 
 
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Re: [pinhole-discussion] new polaroid question

2002-11-19 Thread erickson
I bet it will be Ok. I've used really 'shallow digital negs for platinum,
with good results, requiring very short exposure times.
- Original Message -
From: D. Hill zopp...@yahoo.com
To: pinhole-discussion@p at ???
Sent: Monday, November 18, 2002 10:08 PM
Subject: [pinhole-discussion] new polaroid question


 Hi all,

 Due to the cost difference of type 55, I am
 considering the use of polaroid type 665 for a
 project. Has anyone tried the polaroid neg's with
 printing platinum?  This will be my first attempt with
 the medium and any information will be appreciated.
 My worry is that the neg will not have a strong enough
 density to print acceptable images.

 Thanks,
 Don

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Re: [pinhole-discussion] Experiments with pinhole diameter

2002-11-17 Thread erickson
There's a set of llustrations somewhere around page 120 in Eric renner's
book that illustrates the effevct of different pinhole size at the same
distance from the image. Very few people so far as I know  have deliberately
ventured toward the too small size.
- Original Message -
From: John Brownlow li...@johnbrownlow.com
To: pinhole-discussion@p at ???
Sent: Sunday, November 17, 2002 8:20 AM
Subject: [pinhole-discussion] Experiments with pinhole diameter


 The standard formula for optimum pinhole diameter is quoted everywhere,
but
 has anyone actually done some experiments to see if photographic results
 confirm it? I saw a quote by Larry Bullis somewhere to the effect that he
 had not observed any diminishing returns in going smaller. Here it is:

 http://www.???/resources/articles/makingholes.php

 Looking at the derivation of the standard formula it seems to make some
 assumptions that might not reflect the way we actually perceive
photographic
 sharpness. In particular the notion that the outer diffraction rings are
 strong enough to be perceived as lack of sharpness at all pinhole
diameters
 beyond the 'optimum' bears scrutiny.

 Just wondering.

 --
 John Brownlow

 http://www.pinkheadedbug.com


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Re: [pinhole-discussion] ciba/ilfochrome speed ratings

2002-11-14 Thread erickson
I settled on 2.5 indoors an 1.5 outdoors, which turned out to be fairly
satisfactory. The outdoors with 85a filter did,t result in colors I liked.
Mark Dungan has done a lot of this and likes shooting outdoors just before
sunset, which probably improves the color balance.
- Original Message -
From: drew d...@15munroe.com
To: pinhole-discussion@p at ???
Sent: Wednesday, November 13, 2002 9:19 PM
Subject: [pinhole-discussion] ciba/ilfochrome speed ratings


 I plan on making a simple 8x10 single sheet ciba camera this week. I've
 searched high and low (including the archives) and have found almost
 nothing that states the EI of ilfochrome...

 It seems a popular enough pinhole medium to shoot on so im puzzled by
 the lack of info.

 I have seen some references to EI 1 through about EI 100.

 I don't fear the experimentation but even with home processing @ about 5
 minutes a pop it is time consuming and I of course want to spend as much
 time in the light as possible.

 Anyone with ballparks based in actual pinhole exposures?

 Thanks in advance
 -drew



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Re: [pinhole-discussion] Question on image circle and medium format pinhole camera design

2002-11-12 Thread erickson
You should get full coverage of a 6x6 negative with the focal length you
mentioned. I'd agree that the problem is most likely physical
obstruction.- Original Message -
From: Fox, Robert r...@aarp.org
To: pinhole-discussion@p at ???
Sent: Tuesday, November 12, 2002 2:04 PM
Subject: RE: [pinhole-discussion] Question on image circle and medium format
pinhole camera design


 Thanks Phil! It's clearly the first scenario -- the corners are perfectly
 clean and black. I suppose I will need to modify the camera some more to
get
 rid of that slight edge that sticks up.

 Much appreciated,
 R.J.

 -Original Message-
 From: Philip willarney [mailto:pwillar...@yahoo.com]
 Sent: Tuesday, November 12, 2002 3:00 PM
 To: pinhole-discussion@p at ???
 Subject: Re: [pinhole-discussion] Question on image circle and medium
 format pinhole camera design


 --- Fox, Robert r...@aarp.org wrote:
 ..snip..
  Question:  my images are all circular, cutting off
  the corners cleanly of
  the square print. Is this because the image circle
  is too small for the
  film? I'm wondering if the circular edge of the
  front plate is being picked
  up on film, since the edge sticks up about 1/4 inch.

 If the edges of the photos are sharp, hard edges, it's
 probably vignetting -- something in the light path
 from the outside world to the film is blocking the
 light.  So you're getting a nice clean photo of the
 edges of the lens holder, for instance.

 If the edge is a slow fade from picture to dim picture
 to black, then it's falloff.  Pinholes as such don't
 have an image coverage circle -- the edges just get
 dimmer and dimmer as they get farther from the pinhole
 and get less  less light.

 I think.  Any quibbles, anyone?

 -- pwillar...@yahoo.com


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Re: [pinhole-discussion] Paper negative questions

2002-11-05 Thread erickson
Thanks for the comment. I thought it was good too. Most folks like Ilford
paper. No, the kodak printing doesn't always come through, but you never can
tell. most folks use an ISo of 5 for starters. I've always used RC.
- Original Message -
From: Andrew Amundsen a...@tcinternet.net
To: pinhole-discussion@p at ???
Sent: Tuesday, November 05, 2002 1:16 PM
Subject: [pinhole-discussion] Paper negative questions


 Hi everyone, I am freshly inspired after this weekends pinhole forum,
hosted
 by Tom Miller and Bill Erikson, at the pARTs gallery in Minneapolis. Very
 nice job, hope to see more like it.

 I'm interested in trying paper negative work with pinhole. So I have a
 couple quick questions for those with paper negative experience:

 1) What brand of single weight photo paper has NO labeling on it's back?

 2) Does the Kodak name, from the back, show through on the final print
when
 you print with that brand? or is it faint enough not to?

 3) Which is best to use RC or fiber?

 4) Any good starting exposures for brands of paper you might be familiar
 with?

 Well that will give me a good start, thanks for any help you can pass on!

 Sincerly, Andrew Amundsen

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Re: [pinhole-discussion] Silver prints from digital files?

2002-11-04 Thread erickson
Procolor in Minneapol;is will do this for color, I don't know about BW.
it's www.procolor.com

 - Original Message -
From: Nick Dvoracek dvora...@vaxa.cis.uwosh.edu
To: pinhole-discussion@p at ???
Sent: Monday, November 04, 2002 9:07 AM
Subject: [pinhole-discussion] Silver prints from digital files?


 Does anyone know if a vendor exists who outputs digital files to real
 silver prints.  Fiber would be great but I could live with RC.  My
 local camera store didn't know of any. I can't imagine there's a lot
 of market, but you never know what someone might specialize in.

 I know there's been a lot of discussion of inkjet and other computer
 output. We have a Xerox/Tektronix Phaser 7700 color laser printer
 that puts out really good black and white print quality and can do it
 on a wide variety of papers.   Are people exhibiting these inkjet and
 laser print images?  Do juried shows accept them?

 Nick
 --
 --
 Nick Dvoracek   dvora...@uwosh.edu
 Director of Media Services   Voice: 920-424-7363
 University of Wisconsin OshkoshFax:   920-424-7324
 http://idea.uwosh.edu/media_services/home.html
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Re: [pinhole-discussion] authentic space

2002-10-28 Thread erickson
It seems to me that what you are describing is spaces with a history, and a
funky history at that. The remembrance of things past, to steal a phrase.
- Original Message -
From: Steve Bell veracity...@earthlink.net
To: Pinhole List pinhole-discussion@p at ???
Sent: Monday, October 28, 2002 12:00 AM
Subject: Re: [pinhole-discussion] authentic space


 So far i've done a lot of shooting in diners and also in thrift stores. i
 look at thrift stores as a kind of attempt for some people to reclaim this
 idea of the past. friends of mine go to them looking for vintage type
 clothing. i go there to buy every old camera in sight (it's really
 ridiculous, even the broken ones, gotta have those instamatics). i've also
 done some industrial/urban landscapes. i think i've stopped defining
 authentic space by other people's standards, and started defining it by my
 own, which i'm happy about. that was this series of photos becomes
 documentary, but also very personal.

 the one thing i'm really struggling with is the process i'm using. you see
 i'm doing this all for my color photography class, but i think in the end
 it would be better if the prints were something like pt/pd or maybe even
 salt prints or something like that. something that is more on the
 alternative process tip, simply because i think the subject matter would
 lend itself well to such a look.

 whatever are everyone elses thoughts on authentic space?

 steve


  [Original Message]
  From: Gregg Kemp gregg@p at ???
  To: pinhole-discussion@p at ???
   Date: 10/27/2002 7:26:02 PM
  Subject: Re: [pinhole-discussion] authentic space
 
 
  On Sunday, October 27, 2002, at 06:43  PM, Steve Bell wrote:
 
   Hmm, well let's see.
  
   i originally began with the idea of places where people go to reclaim
   the
   past. for example, diners. i go to diners all the time, and a friend
of
   mine started talking to me about the idea of authentic space. like, in
   the
   50's diners were kind of this ideal for the future. all stream lined
   and
   chrome and neon. now diners are this ideal of the past. this space
   where
   people feel like they are part of something authentic. we also talked
   about
   how yuppie artist types get apartments in more urban areas, and
nouveau
   bourgoise people buy industrial type buildings and turn them into
   living
   spaces so they can feel more conntected to the working class that
   they've
   left behind. this is all architectural theory that she had been
   reading.
  
   it got me very interested. so i've been shooting authentic space. i
   started
   off just doing diners and thrift stores, but i've now started relying
   more
   on my instincts, shooting whatever feels like authentic space, rather
   than
   defining it by these specific criteria.
 
  I find this very interesting Steve - the idea of how the perspective of
  a place changes over time.  What places, or types of places have your
  instincts taken you to (if you don't mind my asking)?
 
  And thank you Rosanne, for asking about the meaning of authentic
  places.  I just assumed I had simply missed out on something else.
 
  - Gregg
 
 
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 --- Steve Bell
 --- veracity...@earthlink.net
 --- http://www.unbeknownst.org/~insurrective /
 http://www.angelfire.com/zine2/insurrection
 --- In fact, rock, rather than being an example of how freedom can be
 achieved within the capitalist structure, is
  an example of how capitalism can, almost without a conscious effort,
 deceive those whom it oppresses...So
  effective has the rock industry been in encouraging the spirit of
 optimistic youth take-over that rock's truly
  hard political edge, it's constant exploration of the varieties of
 youthful frustration, has been ignored
  and softened.  --Michael Lydon



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Re: [pinhole-discussion] testing

2002-10-23 Thread erickson
My message went through. Here is my reply. If it goes through, the HTML
clearly comes from someone else.
- Original Message -
From: erick...@hickorytech.net
To: ppinhole discussion pinhole-discussion@p at ???
Sent: Wednesday, October 23, 2002 7:36 AM
Subject: [pinhole-discussion] testing


 My replies to messages has been blocked lately because it contains HTML
 code. I send in plain text only. If this original message ges blocked I
need
 to know about it. If my replies to others is all that gets blocked,
someone
 else is supplying the HTML code. please advise.



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Re: [pinhole-discussion] 4x5 film

2002-10-16 Thread erickson
Readyloads. See at www.calumetphoto.com

- Original Message - 
From: Catherine Just blue_medic...@yahoo.com
To: pinhole-discussion@p at ???
Sent: Wednesday, October 16, 2002 11:56 AM
Subject: [pinhole-discussion] 4x5 film


 hi,
 
 after using 4x5 film holders with my pinhole while
 traveling, I am very interested in the film that is
 already in a holder. I can't remember the name of it. 
 
 does anyone have information about what I am trying to
 describe???
 
 So instead of having to load the film into a holder
 you can buy a pack of film in its own holder.
 
 I am interested in black and white film, 100 speed.
 
 curious where to buy it, and how many come in a pack.
 
 Some people where talking about it a while back, but I
 have deleted the information.
 
 also:
 
 I'm looking through my first pinhole images, and most
 of them were handheld 45 second eposure, so they look
 hazey/ slightly blurred which I love.
 
 I am considering printing sizes as I am planning on
 having a show of these images.
 
 But I am curious about how much more blurred it will
 be if I blow them up really large. I will most likely
 lose alot of the detail, and they may look really
 blown out
 
 But because they are images with castles in them, they
 just scream at me to be bigger. Does anyone have
 experience printing this type of image large? Did you
 lose the image quality so much that it wasn't worth
 the enlargement???
 
 Curious before i get started.
 
 also:
 
 has anyone used alternative methods of printing
 such as kallitype? Or salt printing? Interested in
 creating more depth / and using an old method of
 printing for these castles.
 
 thank you !
 
 Catherine
 
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 http://www.catherinejust.com
 
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Re: [pinhole-discussion] 1: Is This Nuts? 2: A Plug

2002-10-16 Thread erickson
I think I remember that the general technical term for the phenomenon we're
talking about is piezoelectric.
- Original Message -
From: Tom Miller twmil...@mr.net
To: pinhole-discussion@p at ???
Sent: Wednesday, October 16, 2002 8:57 AM
Subject: Re: [pinhole-discussion] 1: Is This Nuts? 2: A Plug


 Dear All,

 Thank you for the reassuring psychiatric evaluation, for a new word
 and the desire for a new experience with wintergreen lifesavers.  If
 the lifesavers came in little tins, this email thread could come full
 circle.

 Tom

 - Original Message -
 From: Achal Pashine Tuesday, October 15, 2002 5:09 PM
 Subject: Re: [pinhole-discussion] 1: Is This Nuts? 2: A Plug


  Do you mean, triboluminescence of Lifesaver??
  achal.
 
   --- Tom Miller twmil...@mr.net wrote:
Dear List Members,
   
1:  I've noticed that when pulling electrician's
tape off the roll in
complete darkness there is a small greenish light at
the spot where
the tape is pulling off the roll.  Recently, I made
   ..snip..
   Oh, I see that too.  I forget the technical name for
   it, but I remember doing an experiment in high school
   where you cracked a wintergreen lifesaver in the dark
   and it created a similar brief light -- imagine 30
   high school students breaking lifesavers in the dark.
   Brave teacher, no?   I think it's the same
   physics/chemistry involved.
  



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Re: [pinhole-discussion] 1: Is This Nuts? 2: A Plug

2002-10-15 Thread erickson
I suspect that this is the same sort of green light one sees when pulling
the tape that holds 120 film to the roll off. For some reason, it never
seems to affect the film. There's a technical name for it, but I don't know
it. Maybe it's something like the green light you can get when biting down
on wintergreen lifesavers.
- Original Message -
From: Tom Miller twmil...@mr.net
To: pinhole-discussion@p at ???
Sent: Tuesday, October 15, 2002 11:36 AM
Subject: [pinhole-discussion] 1: Is This Nuts? 2: A Plug


 Dear List Members,

 1:  I've noticed that when pulling electrician's tape off the roll in
 complete darkness there is a small greenish light at the spot where
 the tape is pulling off the roll.  Recently, I made a number of small
 cameras out of Whitman Sampler tins, which are only slightly bigger
 than Altoids and hold 2.25 x 3.25 sheet film nicely.  I sealed them
 with black tape to make them light-tight.  When taking the tape off of
 the tin, I saw the same green light.  Has anyone else seen this?  Am I
 nuts (not a bad option, really)?  Do you think that this small amount
 of light could fog film if it were within 1/4 inch of the film?  I
 noticed slight fogging on a couple of sheets of film where the last
 bit of black tape pulls off the tin.

 2: Having tried and been frustrated by all of Kodak's Portra films, I
 decided to try Fuji Reala (based on a recommendation from Dieter
 Bublitz).  I like the Reala 100.  For color pinhole photography, it
 sure has vivid, yet natural, color compared to Portra.  The local
 camera stores told me it is not available in the U.S. in 120, so I've
 been ordering it from Canada.

 Tom


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Re: [pinhole-discussion] Laser drilled pinholes from Calumet?

2002-10-14 Thread erickson
They're fine. See also the ones sold by pinhole resource
www.pinholeresource.com. Also fine. - Original Message -
From: Fox, Robert r...@aarp.org
To: pinhole-discussion@p at ???
Sent: Monday, October 14, 2002 8:08 AM
Subject: [pinhole-discussion] Laser drilled pinholes from Calumet?


 Anyone ever bought/used the set of 12 pre-drilled laser pinholes offered
by
 Calumet Photo?


http://www.calumetphoto.com/syrinx/ctl?PAGE=Controllerac.ui.pn=cat.CatItemD
 etailac.item.itemNo=PY3005

 Seems like a really reasonable price for a set of 12. I know laser drilled
 pinholes are not necessary, but I'm one of those types who likes some
 precision :-)  I'm in the process of converting a 1953 German Dacora Digna
 6x6 into a pinhole camera (focal length approximately 36mm), and have been
 looking for some quality pinholes to use.

 R.J.


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Re: [pinhole-discussion] 35 mm pinhole camera

2002-10-12 Thread erickson
Yes, there is a pinhole diameter that will give best sharpness for each
distance from pinhole to film. The simplest version of the formula is
(distance to film in inches)(55) equals the square of the optimal diameter
in thousandths of an inch. In your case (1.12 inches)(55) equals 68.99, the
square root of which is 7.84 thousandths, or 0.00784 inches.- Original
Message -
From: Zami Schwartzman zami...@netvision.net.il
To: pinhole-discussion@p at ???
Sent: Saturday, October 12, 2002 2:28 AM
Subject: [pinhole-discussion] 35 mm pinhole camera


 Anyone has tried converting a 35 mm camera to pinhole ?

 I have modified  an old Pentax  Spotmatics Reflex camera , the idea was
that
 using a 35 mm format will make it easier to experiment with various types
of
 films . film drive , sutter timing , tripod attachement and  release cable
 are already there  and any local photo shop will process the films  for me
.
 I turned a lens boby on my lath that allows the metal foil be located 28
 mm from the film .
 I discovered that  with this camera  I can flip the mirror up permanently
 without disabling other camera functions ( except for the viewfinder that
 obviously is shut off )

 I use 0.02 mm copper foil .The pinhole  was made under a x70 stereo
 microscope by using a very sharp pin ( honed under the microscope  ) on
hard
 back surface .
 the buurs on the oposit side had  to be very carefuly treated with no. 400
 sandpaper to get a perfect hole . Although not a sraight forward job , I
can
 get perfect holes as small as 0.05 mm diameter ( I have scale on the
 microscope )  . there is no chance to get any smaller with manual pin
 puncturing tecniques .

 I experimented with a 0.1 mm hole , got some good close up pictures well
 exposed with Kodak gold 400 ASA( using f: 120 on the light meter ) but the
 results are  quite  out of focus  on 10x15  prints .

 I wander if going  further to a 0.05 hole will worth the panelty in  the f
 number .
 Is there an  optimun hole size  for best sharpness ?  or is it the smaller
 the better .

 I hear that some people are converting plastic 35 mm cameras  , I wander
 what holes they use  and how sharp is the resultant image  they get .

 Zami




 -Original Message-
 From: pinhole-discussion-admin@p at ???
 [mailto:pinhole-discussion-admin@p at ???]On Behalf Of DAVID WALTERS
 Sent: Friday, October 11, 2002 11:29 AM
 To: pinhole-discussion@p at ???
 Subject: [pinhole-discussion] Re: New to the list and saying hello


 Evening, I apologize for the lag time on answering but
 I had a brief episode of file overload while trying to
 upload some pics (Sorry and thanks, Gregg). I have a
 pinhole from my last roll posted at

http://photos.yahoo.com/bc/wal...@prodigy.net/lst?.dir=/Photo+art.src=ph;.
 order=.view=t.done=http%3a//photos.yahoo.com/
 (badge), along with some other pieces of mine. The
 body cap is on my Canon EOS, I measured the distance
 at 49 mm and I'm using a laser drilled opening of
 .0102, this gives an f/stop of 163, I reckon. Using
 the bulb setting has given me fairly good results with
 Kodak film, although it seems to be able to meter
 through the pinhole. The Polaroid pinholes are from a
 Polaroid 210 with a hand drilled pinhole, I had such a
 bad rolloff because of reciprocity that I have stuck
 with B/W since. I might go back to color with the 210
 and stick to extreme sun in the future, we'll see.
 Thanks for the welcome, David Walters

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Re: [pinhole-discussion] Pinhole enlarging

2002-10-03 Thread erickson
The issue is the degree of enlargement. Enlarging 35mm to 4x6 increases the
image area 16 times. Increasing a 4x5 to 16x20 increases the area only 4
times. You still get best results by contact printing, which is also true
with lens images. - Original Message -
From: Uptown Gallery mur...@uptowngallery.org
To: pinhole-discussion@p at ???
Sent: Thursday, October 03, 2002 10:45 AM
Subject: [pinhole-discussion] Pinhole  enlarging


 Hello:

 If one did MF (4x5 or 5x7) or LF (8x10) sheet film pinhole (and had an
 enlarger large enough), what are the prospects for enlarging?

 I was very unhappy with 4x6 prints from 35mm pinhole.

 Thanks

 Murray


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Re: [pinhole-discussion] Paper or Film?

2002-10-02 Thread erickson
The big advantage of paper is that it can be handled under a safelight.
Don't fret about it's tonal range etc, it's a great learning tool. I'd guess
that the biggest argument in favor of 4x5 ids the greater fariety of films,
film holders, varieties of cameras that can be adapted, etc. Also, not many
folks have access to a 5x7 enlarger. Good luck. you'll do fine and everybody
will have great fun being more creative than they knew they could be.
- Original Message -
From: David Weiss gkar...@yahoo.com
To: Pinhole-Discussion@p at ???
Sent: Wednesday, October 02, 2002 6:04 PM
Subject: [pinhole-discussion] Paper or Film?


 Hi everyone,

 I have been lurking for about a month now, and thought I
 would start to get involved.  I am a rank amateur compared to
 the rest of you, so pardon my ignorance with pinholing.

 I am a high school science teacher, all female catholic
 school.  Some students know my interest in photography and
 have used their feminine powers to persuade me to head a
 photo club.  I though making a pinhole camera would be a nice
 start.  I have seen plans and other details on the web meant
 for 5th graders, but thought that they would enjoy it too.

 My question:  What is the main advantages/disadvantages of
 using film vs paper negatives?  I know that paper would
 normally have a much longer exposure time, but is that the
 only disadvantage of the paper negative?  I am wondering if
 the tonal range is too compressed or something else I am not
 aware of?  ( I am also familiar with the relative
 difficulties in developing paper and film).

 Also, why is 4x5 the preferred size?  I would have thought
 5x7 would be popular, but it does not seem that way from my
 preliminary investigations.  Especially with the paper
 negatives--the paper is very common in this size.

 I have a darkroom at home and am aware of basic techniques so
 share your opinions with confidence!

 BTW, I bought a ROUND Altoid tin the other day (curiously
 sour lemon candy) and am about to try a round paper negative
 for my first crack at this genre.  Seemed like a natural.  I
 am thinking of taking some pinhole photos of things with
 arches, that are basically round, and with the round
 negative, well, it appeals to me.

 I have really enjoyed all of the photos I have seen that
 everyone has taken so far.

 Thanks for your time, folks

 Dave



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Re: [pinhole-discussion] Pintoids revisited

2002-09-16 Thread erickson
Since you are an adventurer re pinholes, I'll pass on an idea I've been
playing with. Spontaneous pinholes. Small apertures like the little holes in
soda crackers, or arrays as in the tops of salt shakers make for wonderfully
rewarding experiments.
- Original Message -
From: Marcy Merrill ma...@merrillphoto.com
To: Pinhole-Discussion@p at ???
Sent: Monday, September 16, 2002 12:19 AM
Subject: [pinhole-discussion] Pintoids revisited


 Hi all: A while back there was a thread about pinhole cameras made from
 Altoid containers. I meant to comment. Later, there was a thread about
 multiple-holed pinhole cameras. I meant to comment. I just finished an
 exhibit of some of my pinhole images. I meant to post about it.
 Anyway, I've spent my afternoon posting Pintoid images to my Pintoid page
 ( www.merrillphoto.com/pintoids.htm ). I've been using acupuncture needles
 to make pinholes and they work well. I'm going to try porcupine quills
next.
 Anyone tried it? Just curious. I'll let you know how it goes. Thanks to
 everyone for such an informative list! -MM

 Marcy Merrill
 Photographer
 www.merrillphoto.com



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Re: [pinhole-discussion] Heading to England

2002-09-16 Thread erickson
The blue haze is what you clear. try it. 
- Original Message - 
From: Catherine Just blue_medic...@yahoo.com
To: pinhole-discussion@p at ???
Sent: Monday, September 16, 2002 12:14 AM
Subject: Re: [pinhole-discussion] Heading to England


 thank you.
 
 I actually have some 4x5 film here that I opened up
 (type 55) and left to dry. It's got a blue haze over
 it. I wasn't sure if I could save them or not.
 
 
 --- erick...@hickorytech.net wrote:
  I never had any trouble just letting the negative
  dry out in the field and
  then clearing it when I got home. Also, one can, if
  desperate, clear the
  negative just with water. It leaves the negative a
  good deal more vulnerable
  to scratching, though.
  - Original Message -
  From: b2myo...@aol.com
  To: pinhole-discussion@p at ???
  Sent: Thursday, September 12, 2002 9:48 AM
  Subject: Re: [pinhole-discussion] Heading to England
  
  
   Hi Catherine,
  
   To clear Type 55 film you can use a regular
  dilution of PermaWash instead
  of
   Sodium Sulfite which is difficult to dilute. Just
  keep the film wet until
  you
   return home for clearing and washing...use
  Photoflo at the end.
  
   For the dreamy effect, you may want to try a zone
  plate pinhole.
  
   Good Luck...keep us informed.
  
   leezy
  
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Re: [pinhole-discussion] Heading to England

2002-09-14 Thread erickson
I never had any trouble just letting the negative dry out in the field and
then clearing it when I got home. Also, one can, if desperate, clear the
negative just with water. It leaves the negative a good deal more vulnerable
to scratching, though.
- Original Message -
From: b2myo...@aol.com
To: pinhole-discussion@p at ???
Sent: Thursday, September 12, 2002 9:48 AM
Subject: Re: [pinhole-discussion] Heading to England


 Hi Catherine,

 To clear Type 55 film you can use a regular dilution of PermaWash instead
of
 Sodium Sulfite which is difficult to dilute. Just keep the film wet until
you
 return home for clearing and washing...use Photoflo at the end.

 For the dreamy effect, you may want to try a zone plate pinhole.

 Good Luck...keep us informed.

 leezy

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Re: [pinhole-discussion] Does anyone use a Jobo for processing

2002-09-01 Thread erickson
No experience with the duolab, but I can sure endorse Jobo. - Original 
Message - 
  From: D. Hill 
  To: pinhole-discussion@p at ??? 
  Sent: Saturday, August 31, 2002 9:34 AM
  Subject: [pinhole-discussion] Does anyone use a Jobo for processing


  Hi everyone, 

  After all this time in the darkroom, I have found it to be a good time to 
simplifly and condense some space with a Jobo Duolab.  Do any of you use this?  
I have a specific question about it's agitation for the film tube, and whether 
it continuously spins in one direction, or if it spins for a revolution in one 
direction then spins back the other way.  The unit seems to be portable enough 
for small darkroom work, and you get the developing slots for paper as well.  
Any stories of darkroom bliss with the Duolab will be appreciated... 

  thanks, 

  Don





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Re: [pinhole-discussion] cyanotypes using paper negatives

2002-08-28 Thread erickson
These are great negs, especially with the pictorico film. Dan Burkholders
book Making Digital negatives for contact printing will tell you how to do
it.
- Original Message -
From: Christian Harkness christianharkn...@hotmail.com
To: pinhole-discussion@p at ???
Sent: Wednesday, August 28, 2002 7:20 AM
Subject: Re: [pinhole-discussion] cyanotypes using paper negatives


 Hi Ben, another 'work-around' would be to make digital negatives on OHP
from
 these folks: http://www.pictorico.com.  For me, the sun exposure for these
 on cyanotype is about 3 - 4 minutes.

 Best - chris

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Re: [pinhole-discussion] 4 questions from a beginner

2002-08-21 Thread erickson
1. The optimal distance for a .013 pinhole is about three inches, and the f
stop would be about 230. You should be able to figure your exposure out with
that, by comparing with a metered f stop. A black cat brand  guide will
help enormously. see it at www.pinholeresource.com
2. Technical answer is that the falloff of light intensity off axis is equal
to the original intensity times the fourth power of the cosine of the angle
off axis. The simple answer is yes. You need a better match between the
distance to the film and the size of the pinhole. Bigger is better.
3. Sounds like old dried up fiberbased paper. Yes a hot press will help. One
used to be able to get print flattener solution, which was basically
glycerine. Don't know if it's available any more.
4. I don't know the ethical answer, but in reality large city sewage systems
can handle the occasional amateur dump. - Original Message -
From: Bre Pettis pett...@yahoo.com
To: pinhole-discussion@p at ???
Sent: Tuesday, August 20, 2002 7:51 PM
Subject: [pinhole-discussion] 4 questions from a beginner


 Hi, I've become obsessed with pinhole photography and
 I've got a bunch of questions that I need help with.
 I'm sorry for so many questions at the same time.

 Question 1

 I've turned an old autographic camera into a pinhole
 camera.  I've got a .013 needle hole and 1#34; from
 the hole to the film.  I've got it loaded with 400
 speed bamp;w film.  So my question is where should I
 start?  In my paper as film pinhole cameras I start at
 about a minute in sunlight.  How long should I try for
 an exposure on a sunny day?  Am I right in gauging the
 f stop at f/77?  I've got a light meter, should I use
 it and should I make any adjustment for using a
 pinhole?


 Question 2

 I've made a 250 sheet photo paper box pinhole camera
 with a .013 hole.  I'm not getting nearly as much
 light around the edges as in the middle.  I thought it
 might be the pinhole, so I made another with the same
 problem.  Is lack of light on the edges normal?

 Question 3

 A friend gave me a box of ilford ilfobrom 4.1P paper.
 It works fine except that the edges are curled up.
 Any way to fix that?  Would putting it in a hot press
 thing help?  Also, does anybody know what the
 qualities of this paper are in relation to other
 papers?

 Question 4

 I'm sure this is a repeat question, but do I take
 developing chemicals to the haz waste pickup place or
 is Seattle's waste division capable of handling the
 chemicals down the sink?

 Thanks,

 Bre Pettis


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Re: [pinhole-discussion] Pinhole mounted in bodycap on EOS cameras

2002-08-16 Thread William Erickson
And the optimal pinhole diamter will be 0.010 inches. 
- Original Message - 
From: Rune Tallaksen tall...@alfanett.no
To: Pinhole-Discussion-Admin pinhole-discussion@p at ???
Sent: Friday, August 16, 2002 1:23 PM
Subject: [pinhole-discussion] Pinhole mounted in bodycap on EOS cameras


 I am wondering if any of you more experienced people on the list can
 help me with this minor challenge. I will like to mount a pinhole on a
 bodycap and put it on one of my EOS bodies.
 I have been searching the net and have found a lot of information for my
 other pinholeprojects (4x5, 6x7) but not on this particular subject.
 
 My questions are:
 
 How do I measure the distance from the filmplane til the pinhole?
 
 What will the optimal pinholediameter be? 
 
 Will my built in exposure be able to measure the light and set a
 correct exposure?
 
 What else should I think of?
 
 Regards
 
 Rune
 Norway
 
 
 
 
 
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Re: [pinhole-discussion] exposure problems

2002-08-16 Thread William Erickson
You must have obstructed the pinhole somehow, or else you are loading your
film backside forward and are exposing through the film. One time I taped
the pinhole inside the camera and only then sprayed the inside with black
paint.
- Original Message -
From: callum moffat callum...@yahoo.com
To: pinhole-discussion@p at ???
Sent: Friday, August 16, 2002 1:56 AM
Subject: [pinhole-discussion] exposure problems


 im having problems with exposure on a pinhole camera
 that im using.it's made from a round sweet tin and has
 a pinhole of  approx 0.35-0.4 mm. Distance from pihole
 to film is 95mm at its furthest point.

 with fast film (iso 400 ilford xp2) my suggested
 exposure times should be reasonably short(in pinhole
 terms) but i find that im having to give massive
 exposures to gat a decent exposure even in bright
 light

 ant ideas

 callum moffat,edinburgh,scotland

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Re: [pinhole-discussion] Strange Problem and I need some help.

2002-08-13 Thread William Erickson
One way to test for unperceived leaks is to cover the whole camera with a
black plastic garbage bag, leaving only the pinhole showing. the repeat the
exposure situation.
- Original Message -
From: ROBERTSON,TRAVIS J is-...@womans.com
To: pinhole-discussion@p at ???
Sent: Tuesday, August 13, 2002 9:50 AM
Subject: [pinhole-discussion] Strange Problem and I need some help.


 My photos are having problems and I posted some example hoping that I can
 find out what is the problem.   Please note that this is my first camera
and
 I have been doing this for about a week.  I'm just trying to work out the
 kinks in my camera design.

 This photo was a 2-min exposure on a very overcast sky about 20 min before
 sunset.  I just wanted to see how a long exposure would turn out.  Can you
 see the two vertical lines down the middle of the photo?  What could cause
 that?

http://www.???/discussion/upload/gallery2002.php?cmd=maxstar
 t=pic=trfarm_lines.jpg

 The photo below was the same shot but was a 1 min and 30 second exposure
and
 now I have a strange light source coming from the bottom.  Could it be
cause
 by a problem with my pinhole?  I sure I don't have any light leaks.   I'm
 using an oatmeal pinhole camera.

http://www.???/discussion/upload/gallery2002.php?cmd=maxstar
 t=pic=trfarm_lightproblem.jpg

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Re: [pinhole-discussion] Newbie Intro. and a few questions

2002-08-12 Thread William Erickson
I just spent a week helping a friend load his new multiformat zero etc. What
a pain! As for 4x5 vs 8x10, 4x5 gives you a lot more choices. 8x10 satisfies
the purist. Look at choices at www.pinholeresource.com.
- Original Message -
From: Fox, Robert r...@aarp.org
To: Pinhole List (E-mail) pinhole-discussion@p at ???
Sent: Monday, August 12, 2002 8:20 AM
Subject: [pinhole-discussion] Newbie Intro. and a few questions


 Short introduction:  I'm an amateur photographer in the Washington DC area
 shooting mostly medium format on-location portraits and architectural
stuff.
 I shoot mostly BW print, but also use transparencies (usually Fuji Provia
 100). I am fascinated by the potential of pinhole photography and am
looking
 to buy a pre-made camera after seeing the beautiful examples on the
resource
 page. I use mostly all-manual cameras, so getting into pinhole feels
pretty
 natural. I hate the way modern electronics can get in the way of the image
 making process.

 Are there any practical reasons to shoot at 4x5 rather than 8x10?  I
suppose
 it would be easy enough to do both, but I'm wondering about people's
 preferences for architectural and portrait work. The multi-format Zero2000
 looks like a good starter as well given the choice of formats for standard
 roll film.

 I must say I am blown away by the quality and creativeness of the images I
 have seen on the April 28 pinhole day gallery -- really inspiring! One of
 the best photographic events I've ever seen -- simple and powerful.

 Anyway, I'm here to learn and am glad to participate.

 R.J.









Re: [pinhole-discussion] Camera Size?

2002-08-10 Thread William Erickson
And you can make the camera narrower than the paper, curving the paper to
fit and thus greatly increasing your angle of view.
- Original Message -
From: George L Smyth glsm...@yahoo.com
To: pinhole-discussion@p at ???
Sent: Wednesday, August 07, 2002 3:18 PM
Subject: RE: [pinhole-discussion] Camera Size?



 --- ROBERTSON,TRAVIS J is-...@womans.com wrote:
  I would like to make 16X20 prints (That is I want to put the paper in
the
  camera) and I'm trying to figure out how large of a pinhole camera I
would
  need.  Any suggestions on how to figure this out?

 Travis -

 I made a 16X20 camera a while back, and it realy depends upon how wide an
angle
 you want.  You can make it pretty much as shallow or as deep as you want.

 Cheers -

 george

 =
 Handmade Photographic Images - http://GLSmyth.com
 DRiP Investing - http://DRiPInvesting.org

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Re: [pinhole-discussion] hello.....

2002-08-10 Thread William Erickson
If you look on page 120 in Eric Renner's first edition or 128 in the second
edition you will see an array of progressively more blurred images of the
same object along with the f stop of the pinhole. The pinhole in the lower
right corner seems optimal. The pinhole directly above it is more than four
times wider, and the blurriest one is nearly ten times wider. To get the
precise size relationships among the several pinholes used, pick an
arbitrary focal length and divide each f stop into it. I just spent a week
at Eric Renner's place, where he referred to people like me who try to solve
problems like this as techno-twits. He would just try something and see
what it looks like. Maybe he's right.
- Original Message -
From: Mark Interrante m...@interwalk.com
To: pinhole-discussion@p at ???
Sent: Monday, August 05, 2002 7:21 PM
Subject: Re: [pinhole-discussion] hello.


 Ok, I've a question.  I recently saw Martha Casanave's Lenin photos
(http://marthacasanave.com/lenin.html)
 and I think they are beautiful.  She uses a non-optimial pinhole, and I'd
 like to know if people have any idea how much larger I would need to make
 a pinhole to achieve this effect?

 Mark


 -- Original Message --
 Subject: Re: [pinhole-discussion] hello.
 From: gleh...@mac.com
 To: pinhole-discussion@p at ???
 Reply-To: pinhole-discussion@p at ???
 Date: Mon, 5 Aug 2002 22:52:58 +0100
 
 
 hello
 anyone there
 
 
 I guess everyone's too busy pinholing to post...
 
 I have to say this is the friendliest and least antagonistic mailing
 list I've been on...
 
 Cheers.
 
 Gordon Lehany
 
 
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Re: [pinhole-discussion] I have a question.

2002-07-25 Thread William Erickson
Go gett'em! Go buy Eric Renner's book Pinhole Photography, second edition.
It'll get you started and then some.
- Original Message -
From: ROBERTSON,TRAVIS J is-...@womans.com
To: pinhole-discussion@p at ???
Sent: Thursday, July 25, 2002 4:30 PM
Subject: [pinhole-discussion] I have a question.


 I have a passion for photography, but the cost of large format cameras and
 enlargers prevent me from doing the work I want to.   Today I found your
web
 site and I have that excited feeling about pinhole photography.   You see
I
 want to create very large photos, but I have a question.   Can you create
a
 very large pinhole camera and just use photo-paper instead of film?  Are
 their limitations to this?  I have a dark room and I can make the prints.
 Thanks.
 Travis.


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Re: [pinhole-discussion] pinhole and strobe?

2002-07-24 Thread William Erickson
You can, but most strobes don't put out enough light to give adequate
exposure with just one shot. Using a flash meter, find the distance from the
object that gives you an F22 reading, then find the multiple of f22 your
pinhole needs and give that many shots with the strobe.
- Original Message -
From: Margaret Crowe winr...@hotmail.com
To: pinhole-discussion@p at ???
Sent: Wednesday, July 24, 2002 8:30 AM
Subject: [pinhole-discussion] pinhole and strobe?


 Hi all, I hope I'm posting this in the right place!! Just wondering if
 anyone can explain to me why it's not possible to take photos with my
 pinhole using flashes (strobe)?  MARGARET


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Re: [pinhole-discussion] pinhole size

2002-07-21 Thread William Erickson
One simple way is to photograph the pinhole over a light box with a ruler
beside it, then enlarge the negative as big as you can and compare the
diamter of.the aperture with distance on the ruler. Comparators for threads
are said to work fairly well. I bought a set of pre-drilled pinholes and use
them for eyeball comparison.

- Original Message -
From: Jean Hanson jhan...@pon.net
To: pinhole-discussion@p at ???
Sent: Sunday, July 21, 2002 5:53 PM
Subject: [pinhole-discussion] pinhole size


 I have the math on how to figure the ideal size of the pinholes but how
 do you actually measure them. Does everyone but me have a microscope, a
 micrometer? what?  Jean


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Re: [pinhole-discussion] HP5, Delta films and reciprocity

2002-07-20 Thread William Erickson
I use the same formula as I do for TMAX. The other forgiving factor is that 
when you correct for reciprocity failure, the failure itself buffers 
overexposure risk. Don't try to hit a mark too closely. Overexposure may be a 
wrong, but it's only a misdemeanor. Underexposure is a felony. 
  - Original Message - 
  From: bwphoto4...@aol.com 
  To: pinhole-discussion@p at ??? 
  Sent: Friday, July 19, 2002 10:26 PM
  Subject: [pinhole-discussion] HP5, Delta films and reciprocity


  OK,

  This has probably been discussed recently, but can anyone out there recommend 
a good formula/rule of thumb for adjusting exposure for reciprocity in Ilford 
films?  The technical data on their webpage is merely a chart, and I am hoping 
to get more specific information, based on the experience of the other pinhole 
photographers on the list.

  I normally use Delta 400, but occasionally use HP5 and Delta 100. I process 
in Ilfotec DDX (although I also occasionally use Ilfosol). Anyone out there 
with experience with these films? My camera is the Zero Image multiformat 
(which is at f235).

  Thanks!

  M Billingslea 


Re: [pinhole-discussion] pinhole size

2002-07-19 Thread William Erickson
Measure the distance from the pinhole to the back. Multiply the distance (in
inches) by 55. The result is the square of the optimal diameter, in
thousandths of an inch. If an altoid can is 3/4 of an inch deep, the optimal
diamter is .0064 inches.
- Original Message -
From: Steve Shapiro sgsh...@redshift.com
To: pinhole-discussion@p at ???
Sent: Friday, July 19, 2002 4:07 PM
Subject: Re: [pinhole-discussion] pinhole size


 I never got a definitive answer to my questioon about the best advisable
 pinhole size for the sharp image with an Altoid can pinhole camera.

 S
 - Original Message -
 From: William Erickson erick...@hickorytech.net
 To: ppinhole discussion pinhole-discussion@p at ???
 Sent: Friday, July 19, 2002 1:52 PM
 Subject: [pinhole-discussion] pinhole size


  I misspoke this morning when i sent a comment about the relationship
 between
  pinhole size and sharpness. I indicted that exposure doubles with every
 40%
  increase in diamter. It should have been the area of the aperture
doubles,
  and thus time halves.
 
 
 
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[pinhole-discussion] pinhole size

2002-07-19 Thread William Erickson
I misspoke this morning when i sent a comment about the relationship between
pinhole size and sharpness. I indicted that exposure doubles with every 40%
increase in diamter. It should have been the area of the aperture doubles,
and thus time halves.





[pinhole-discussion] pinhole size and sharpness.

2002-07-18 Thread William Erickson
I am attempting to recover from a deep seated addiction to commercially
drilled pinholes. My research yields the following, which I will share
because I have never seen it written anywhere before. Exposure time for any
given pinhole doubles with each 40% increase in diameter, but sharpness of
image with changes in pinhole diameter  degrades much more slowly, and
requires quite drastic increases in pinhole diameter to give significant
changes in sharpness. I've done some testing to confirm this, but the best
example of this is on page 128 of Eric Renner's book. You can see some
increased softness of the image with a pinhole twice as wide as optimal, but
you really don't begin to lose detail until the pinhole is between three and
four times as wide as optimal. Even a pinhole ten times as wide as optimal
will yiled a very readable image. In Eric's example pick an arbitrary focal
length and divide the various fstops shown in the illustration into it. You
will see the ratios of aperture diameter associated with different degrees
of sharpness. Thus the error associated with using one size needle or
another, over a wide range of focal lengths, is negligable (sp?). One will
get surprisingly uniform sharpness and clarity of the image with any
pinhole, because the difference in pin diameters for different numbers of
needle is far less than 100%. Many of you have taken this for granted but
here is a way for the precision technonerds to see a way to loose their
chains.





Re: [pinhole-discussion] (OT) Scanning Slides

2002-07-13 Thread William Erickson
I have a Nikon Coolscan and could scan them for you and put the files on a
CD. You'ld have to trust me with the slides. erick...@hickorytech.net
- Original Message -
From: Chris Peregoy pere...@umbc.edu
To: pinhole-discussion pinhole-discussion@p at ???
Sent: Saturday, July 13, 2002 5:49 PM
Subject: RE: [pinhole-discussion] (OT) Scanning Slides


 = Original Message From Steve Bell veracity...@earthlink.net
 =
 Going digital is a great idea, unfortunately i've not got $5000 to spare
to
 pick up a nice camera. I've already purchased the slide film, though i do
 have a bunch of negative film too. hopefully i will be able to persuade
the
 security people to hand check my bag. i do plan on using the slide film,
 so
 the question remains, where can i get it scanned?
 

 I can help you out. When you get back and have developed and sorted
 your slides, email me off list and I'll let you use the slide scanner I
have
 at
 our school.

 Chris Peregoy
 pere...@umbc.edu
 http://userpages.umbc.edu/~peregoy


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Re: [pinhole-discussion] Why is paper contrasty?

2002-07-13 Thread William Erickson
Thanks. I'll try it.
- Original Message -
From: Steve Shapiro sgsh...@redshift.com
To: pinhole-discussion@p at ???
Sent: Saturday, July 13, 2002 2:02 AM
Subject: Re: [pinhole-discussion] Why is paper contrasty?


 To improve local contrast, extend range; you might try a half tsp of
Shap's
 Bal. Bitzper liter of working developer.  It's now available through the
 Photographers' Formulary.

 S
 - Original Message -
 From: William Erickson erick...@hickorytech.net
 To: pinhole-discussion@p at ???
 Sent: Friday, July 12, 2002 7:29 AM
 Subject: Re: [pinhole-discussion] Why is paper contrasty?


  I understand the behavior of VC paper, but my comments intended to deal
 with
  the fact that the tonal range of brightly lit scenes exceeded the tonal
  range of any paper. Ratcheting down the exposure time in such
situations
  would bring the highlights more into the tonal  range of the paper, at
the
  cost of shadow detail, advantage being that you at least don't lose both
  highlights and shadow. Thanks for your thoughts.
  - Original Message -
  From: Guy Glorieux guy.glori...@sympatico.ca
  To: pinhole-discussion@p at ???
  Sent: Friday, July 12, 2002 8:05 AM
  Subject: Re: [pinhole-discussion] Why is paper contrasty?
 
 
   William,
  
   If you go to the Ilford web site, on the BW products page,
   http://www.ilford.com/html/us_english/bw.html
   you will find hiding somewhere towards the center of the page an
Acrobat
   document called CONTRAST CONTROL that deals with your question.
  
   Basically, contrast on BW variable-contrast paper is determined by
the
   amount of blue that hits the paper.  Under the enlarger, low contrast
is
   achieved by reducing the amount of blue from the enlarger lamp with a
   yellow filter.
  
   VC paper is calibrated for tungsten, which is yellow in color,
compared
   to daylight which is much more blue.  So, it's only natural that paper
   exposed to blue daylight will be more contrasty.
  
   To reduce contrast, use a yellow filter similar to the 00 that you
would
   use under the enlarger for minimum contrast: it works very well.  It
   will block some light, compared to not using a filter.  But, if you
use
   Ilford paper, its speed is higher at lower contrast grades than at
   higher contrast.  As for me, I use ISO 4 when I shoot paper negatives
   and it works well for me.
  
   Hope this helps,
  
   Guy
  
   - Original Message -
   From: William Erickson erick...@hickorytech.net
   To: ppinhole discussion pinhole-discussion@p at ???
   Sent: Thursday, July 11, 2002 8:45 PM
   Subject: [pinhole-discussion] Why is paper contrasty?
  
  
I've thought this through but haven't completely verified it yet,
but
   I
wanted to see what others reaction is. BW paper used as a negative
is
   said
to be contrasty. What does this mean? BW paper has a sensitivity
   range of
a little more than four stops for any given exposure. Burning and
   dodging
increase tonal range by shortening or lengthening the exposure. If
you
   meter
a scene that has an eight stop tonal range and give the average
   exposure for
the scene using a paper negative, you risk having the highlights
blown
   out
because they are more than two stops above average, and shadows go
   black
because they are more than two stops below average. If the scene has
a
   tonal
range of only four or five stops, your negative won't be contrasty
   because
all the tones lie within the range of the paper. What, then, to do
in
sunshiney scenes, for instance, where the tonal range might be eight
   or nine
stops? If you place the highlight tones of the main object of your
composition about two stops above average, you will get good
tonality
   in
important spots, no blown out highlights, even though you may get
lots
   of
black shadows. The implication is, much shorter exposure times (read
   higher
ISO) in bright scenes than in shadowiy scenes (effctively lower
ISO),
   using
the same paper. My first tests suggest that a good ISO for Ilford
   multigrade
in bright sunlight might be as high as 15, while 5 works well in
   shaded
scenes. Any comments?
   
   
   
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Re: [pinhole-discussion] Why is paper contrasty?

2002-07-12 Thread William Erickson
I understand the behavior of VC paper, but my comments intended to deal with
the fact that the tonal range of brightly lit scenes exceeded the tonal
range of any paper. Ratcheting down the exposure time in such situations
would bring the highlights more into the tonal  range of the paper, at the
cost of shadow detail, advantage being that you at least don't lose both
highlights and shadow. Thanks for your thoughts.
- Original Message -
From: Guy Glorieux guy.glori...@sympatico.ca
To: pinhole-discussion@p at ???
Sent: Friday, July 12, 2002 8:05 AM
Subject: Re: [pinhole-discussion] Why is paper contrasty?


 William,

 If you go to the Ilford web site, on the BW products page,
 http://www.ilford.com/html/us_english/bw.html
 you will find hiding somewhere towards the center of the page an Acrobat
 document called CONTRAST CONTROL that deals with your question.

 Basically, contrast on BW variable-contrast paper is determined by the
 amount of blue that hits the paper.  Under the enlarger, low contrast is
 achieved by reducing the amount of blue from the enlarger lamp with a
 yellow filter.

 VC paper is calibrated for tungsten, which is yellow in color, compared
 to daylight which is much more blue.  So, it's only natural that paper
 exposed to blue daylight will be more contrasty.

 To reduce contrast, use a yellow filter similar to the 00 that you would
 use under the enlarger for minimum contrast: it works very well.  It
 will block some light, compared to not using a filter.  But, if you use
 Ilford paper, its speed is higher at lower contrast grades than at
 higher contrast.  As for me, I use ISO 4 when I shoot paper negatives
 and it works well for me.

 Hope this helps,

 Guy

 - Original Message -
 From: William Erickson erick...@hickorytech.net
 To: ppinhole discussion pinhole-discussion@p at ???
 Sent: Thursday, July 11, 2002 8:45 PM
 Subject: [pinhole-discussion] Why is paper contrasty?


  I've thought this through but haven't completely verified it yet, but
 I
  wanted to see what others reaction is. BW paper used as a negative is
 said
  to be contrasty. What does this mean? BW paper has a sensitivity
 range of
  a little more than four stops for any given exposure. Burning and
 dodging
  increase tonal range by shortening or lengthening the exposure. If you
 meter
  a scene that has an eight stop tonal range and give the average
 exposure for
  the scene using a paper negative, you risk having the highlights blown
 out
  because they are more than two stops above average, and shadows go
 black
  because they are more than two stops below average. If the scene has a
 tonal
  range of only four or five stops, your negative won't be contrasty
 because
  all the tones lie within the range of the paper. What, then, to do in
  sunshiney scenes, for instance, where the tonal range might be eight
 or nine
  stops? If you place the highlight tones of the main object of your
  composition about two stops above average, you will get good tonality
 in
  important spots, no blown out highlights, even though you may get lots
 of
  black shadows. The implication is, much shorter exposure times (read
 higher
  ISO) in bright scenes than in shadowiy scenes (effctively lower ISO),
 using
  the same paper. My first tests suggest that a good ISO for Ilford
 multigrade
  in bright sunlight might be as high as 15, while 5 works well in
 shaded
  scenes. Any comments?
 
 
 
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[pinhole-discussion] Why is paper contrasty?

2002-07-11 Thread William Erickson
I've thought this through but haven't completely verified it yet, but I
wanted to see what others reaction is. BW paper used as a negative is said
to be contrasty. What does this mean? BW paper has a sensitivity range of
a little more than four stops for any given exposure. Burning and dodging
increase tonal range by shortening or lengthening the exposure. If you meter
a scene that has an eight stop tonal range and give the average exposure for
the scene using a paper negative, you risk having the highlights blown out
because they are more than two stops above average, and shadows go black
because they are more than two stops below average. If the scene has a tonal
range of only four or five stops, your negative won't be contrasty because
all the tones lie within the range of the paper. What, then, to do in
sunshiney scenes, for instance, where the tonal range might be eight or nine
stops? If you place the highlight tones of the main object of your
composition about two stops above average, you will get good tonality in
important spots, no blown out highlights, even though you may get lots of
black shadows. The implication is, much shorter exposure times (read higher
ISO) in bright scenes than in shadowiy scenes (effctively lower ISO), using
the same paper. My first tests suggest that a good ISO for Ilford multigrade
in bright sunlight might be as high as 15, while 5 works well in shaded
scenes. Any comments?





Re: [pinhole-discussion] fogging in half-cylinder cameras.

2002-07-11 Thread William Erickson
Thanks.
- Original Message -
From: Andy Schmitt aschm...@warwick.net
To: pinhole-discussion@p at ???
Sent: Thursday, July 11, 2002 12:08 PM
Subject: RE: [pinhole-discussion] fogging in half-cylinder cameras.


 The regular matte paper should solve it. Also make sure the back of the
 metal that you made the PH out of is covered. Glossy paper is a nightmare
in
 cylindrical cameras
 andy

 -Original Message-
 From: pinhole-discussion-admin@p at ???
 [mailto:pinhole-discussion-admin@p at ???]On Behalf Of William
 Erickson
 Sent: Thursday, July 11, 2002 7:47 AM
 To: ppinhole discussion
 Subject: [pinhole-discussion] fogging in half-cylinder cameras.


 I have made a half cylinder camera for 8x10 negatives. I find that I have
 far more trouble with fogging due to interior reflection than I have ever
 seen with cylindrical cameras where the negative takes up only the back
half
 of the cylinder. In this camera, the angle of view approaches 180 degrees,
 with the edges of the neg butted right up against the front of the camera.
I
 haven't had fully matte paper to use, and haven't tried film yet, but I
 will. Has anyone used the polymax fine art paper that is double matte? I
 sent for some. has anyone tried some sort of a baffle system that might
 quench some of the random bouncing around of light?



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Re: [pinhole-discussion] close up flower shots

2002-07-11 Thread William Erickson
Mysterious!
- Original Message -
From: Tim Rawling pin_...@hotmail.com
To: pinhole-discussion@p at ???
Sent: Thursday, July 11, 2002 6:56 AM
Subject: [pinhole-discussion] close up flower shots


 Hi all,

 I just uploaded some close up pinhole images from a series that I have
 been working on for a little while now.  If you are interested plese check
 them out at:


http://www.???/discussion/upload/gallery2002.php?pic=timr_pin
tryp.jpg

 (paste the two lines together if they have wrapped)

 Cheers,

 Tim R

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Re: [pinhole-discussion] rings on photos. What could be the cause?

2002-07-05 Thread William Erickson
I see these sometimes, but not always. They usually seem to be related to a
light source, so i'd guess it's diffraction. try a shot away from any light
source and see if they're still there.
- Original Message -
From: Justin Bell j.b...@paradise.net.nz
To: Pinhole-Discussion@p at ???
Sent: Thursday, July 04, 2002 12:36 AM
Subject: [pinhole-discussion] rings on photos. What could be the cause?


 Hi. I've been playing around with pinhole photography, and I'm still in
the
 mode of figuring it all out.

 Recently, I decided to change the focal length from 110mm to about 35mm. I
 have an old Agfa Bily, and just removed the entire front end except for
the
 'accordian' part, the pinhole lines up with the front of the camera.

 In doing so, I made another pinhole. But now I have tried 2 pinholes with
 the new modified focal length, and I'm getting 'rings' on the photo
 (http://soupisgoodfood.net/temp/pinhole.jpg, sorry for the poor photo, I
had
 to take a digi of it using my monitor as a lightbox :).

 I'm guessing I didn't see the rings before I changed the focal length
 because it fell outside the frame.

 What do you think is causing it? Pinhole too small/refaction of light? The
 fact that I made it from heavy aluminium foil (one of those pie trays that
 comes with frozen pies to be exact). The drill method?


 Thanks for any input.
 Justin.


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Re: [pinhole-discussion] Paper Negative Questions

2002-06-21 Thread William Erickson
Ilford multigrade is best. If you are going to use paper flat, then the surface 
doesn't matter. if you are going to curve the paper, as around the inside of a 
can, use the flattest surface you can get. I think peal is as dull as Iolford 
gets. The usual rule of thumb for any paper is ISo of 5 or 6. the other thing 
about paper negatives is that the results tend to be very contrasty. If you 
don't like that, use a yellow filter and double the exposure time. Is the new 
e-mail address the ofical one?   
  - Original Message - 
  From: David 
  To: pinhole-discussion@p at ??? 
  Sent: Friday, June 21, 2002 11:44 AM
  Subject: [pinhole-discussion] Paper Negative Questions


  Hi,

  I have a couple of questions concerning paper negatives:

  1.What brand and type of paper makes the best paper negatives?  I have 
heard that the Kodak logo on the back will show up in prints made from paper 
negatives.

  2.What is the ISO rating of various papers?

  Any other comments or recommendations would be greatly appreciated.

  Thanks, 
  David
  d...@ix.netcom.com



[pinhole-discussion] digital pinhole

2002-06-19 Thread William Erickson
Here is an image from a pinhole bodycap on a Nikon D1X digital camera.
www://???/discussion/upload/gallery2002.php?pic=digital_pinho
le.jpg
The camera allows exposure times up to 30 seconds. Compose and meter for F22
(you can pre-set ISO and just use what you were otherwise using). Multiply
exposure time at F22 by 40, take the lens off, put on pinhole, change mode
setting to manual, set the calulated exposure time and shoot. Other than the
stunt of doing digital pinhole, it's kind of a nothing experience. Because
the CCP is smaller than a 35mm negative, you compound the effective focal
length by 50%, in effect you are shooting with a 75mm lens on 35 mm format.
On the other hand the D1X is an absolutely wonderful tool.





Re: [pinhole-discussion] new but not a newbie , kinda but not really

2002-06-04 Thread Bill Erickson
Try the Black Cat thing. I can't remember the rest of the name. You can find
it under Black cat at pinhole resource and other camera places. It's not a
meter but it will translate from f22 to the higher Fstops. It's a $20
carboard dial with a long list of exposure by condition suggestions too.
- Original Message -
From: chad white chadwh...@mac.com
To: pinhole-discussion@p at ???
Sent: Tuesday, June 04, 2002 1:05 AM
Subject: [pinhole-discussion] new but not a newbie , kinda but not really




 what is a good light meter for pinhole  f-stops ? i am lurking e-bay ,i
 what to buy a light meter that can be used practically for pinhole. i
 don't want to use the math. i just want a simple light meter so i can
 spend my energy taking pinhole images. i noticed that most light-meters
 stop about f-16. f-225 or higher is better for me.


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Re: [pinhole-discussion] Covering Power of Pinholes

2002-05-31 Thread Bill Erickson
Covering Power of PinholesSimple answer is that covering power generally is 1 
1/2 times the focal length either side of the axis. Erics book has both complex 
and simple formulae. The simple formula is the diameter of the aperture in 
thosandths of an inch (for example 0.010= 10) divided by 55 equals the optimal 
focal length in inches. On the other hand, the whole thing is very forgiving. 
You have to be off on the diamerter by 40% to get one stop exposure change. 
Sharpness is even more forgiving. there's a series of pictures somewher in 
erics book that illustrates this. Take it from a semi-reformed critical 
standards guy. You don't need critical standards. 
  - Original Message - 
  From: Joe Tait 
  To: pinhole-discussion@p at ??? 
  Sent: Thursday, May 30, 2002 10:49 PM
  Subject: [pinhole-discussion] Covering Power of Pinholes


  Hello!

  New to the list and this is my first post. 

  A little background.

  I have been doing photography for 6 years, and currently shoot 4x5 w/ a 
Cambo Legend monorail and 6x7 with a Koni Rapid 200. Most of my experience has 
been with conventional silver printing, but I have tried cyanotype  gum 
bichromate in the last 6 months, and am going to plunge forward into various 
alt processes as I can.

  I really want to try pinhole next, and want larger negatives for contact 
printing. I've found some interesting info on the web and will build my own 
camera  pinhole very soon. One thing that I am confused about is  determining 
how much covering power a given pinhole has.  Is it just relative to the 
distance of the pinhole to film/pinhole dia., which then determines the focal 
length? Forgive me, I struggle with comprehending even the most basic concepts 
of optics generally, and am no better with pinhole.

  I'd like to try say an 11x14 format, or perhaps a panoramic 8x16. The 
wide-angle possibilities  (both the really wide  moderate) are in my sights 
first and I like distortion, but not to the point of monotony. I am looking to 
use sheet Lith film developed in dilute developer, or pyro; and will be making 
my own film holders and back to be able to do multiple exposures.

  Could someone enlighten me how to figure out the proper pinhole size  
lens-to-film distance for the aforementioned formats? I understand  that a 
curved film plane is employed to compensate for light fall-off. Is the optimum 
curve determined by experience, or are there known combinations?

  I haven't found any books that focus on specifics. Eric Renner's book 
apparently focuses on the history more than construction, which is the opposite 
of what I want to learn first. Perhaps someone could recommend more literature 
because the web only seems to offer an overview of pinhole.

  Lastly, Larry Bullis' excellent article on pinhole construction mentioned 
using silver sheeting  a microscope to make pinholes. I'd actually like to try 
both of these methods. Does anyone work in this way? Where do you get the 
silver sheeting and what kind of microscope do you use? Precision pinholes seem 
to really effect the resolution, quite appropriate for certain shots (although 
the softness is perfect for others).

  Thanks.

  -Joe 


Re: [pinhole-discussion] Cutting oatmeal box

2002-05-24 Thread Bill Erickson
Any power tool will shred the cardboard. I'd use either an xacto knife or a
single edger razor blade.
- Original Message -
From: Chris Harris cpharrisph...@hotmail.com
To: pinhole-discussion@p at ???
Sent: Thursday, May 23, 2002 7:58 PM
Subject: [pinhole-discussion] Cutting oatmeal box


 I'll be teaching a pinhole class, constructing cameras from Quaker oatmeal
 canisters. I'd like to avoid using knives to cut the opening for the
 pinhole.

 I've seen suggestions for using a Dremel drill, which I don't own. A trip
to
 my local hardware store wasn't helpful; the tool guy said a Dremel
wouldn't
 cut a clean hole in cardboard and pointed out the cost of the drill.

 Is a Dremel the best alternative to a knife? If so, what Dremel bit should
I
 buy for this job?

 Thanks,

 Chris

 _
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[pinhole-discussion] how to say It's just a camera in Italian.

2002-04-24 Thread Bill Erickson
I'm about to leave for two weeks of pinholing in Italy. I feel rather self
conscious about digging in a changing bag and putting out suspicious looking
cannisters on the Ponte Veccio. Can some one tell me how to say It's just
an home made camera, or I am harmless, though eccentric in Italian?




Re: Thanks Re: [pinhole-discussion] best viewfinders for close-up work

2002-04-20 Thread Bill Erickson
If the essence of a child is movement, then a pinhole is the ideal method to
desribe it. My experience is that you can captue quiet movement easily
enough in bright sun. Anything moving throughout an exposure of more than
ten seconds will simply disappear. I enjoy playing with overnight exposures,
which might capture the still environment and the child moving in her sleep.
- Original Message -
From: dalf...@aol.com
To: pinhole-discussion@p at ???
Sent: Saturday, April 20, 2002 12:12 AM
Subject: Re: Thanks Re: [pinhole-discussion] best viewfinders for close-up
work


 In a message dated 4/19/02 11:50:35 PM Central Daylight Time,
 heidtsa...@hotmail.com writes:

   The other night I tried to do an exposure of my
   older child while she was sleeping.  She stayed in exactly the same
 position
 
   for such a long time.  I'm wondering if it will turn out...
 
   I hate to admit how difficult it is for me to find what I consider to
be
   suitable subject-matter for a photograph.  My children are significant
to
 me
 
   in a way that a tree or a building can never be.  But I love the long
   exposures with the pinhole camera because I feel I am capturing more
time.

   I love standing around counting to myself and taking a picture while
not
   looking through a viewfinder.  This is a challenge that I am enjoying
very
   much, and I appreciate the help.
 
   Sarah

 Sarah, before your very eyes , lies a  wealth waiting to be goldmined ,
your
 daughters that is . They are always available, although maybe not always
 willing subjects before your camera(s) Worry not , that there is movement
 during the pinhole exposure, some really nice images come out of people
 moving within the frame , Serendipity plays here :-)

 I forget ( I do that a lot :-) but it seems to me  someone on this list
 photographs their kids/daughters, as I have seen their work online ,  one
was
 a longg exposure , something like several hours, focused upon a
 child/daughter as she slept in her bed, and another image, am not sure if
by
 the same person who made images of their daughter(s) while on a picnic,
 perhaps during the World Wide Pinhole Day last year , I am thinking ? Some
 one else on the list kindly chime in here , about this please ?

 Sarah,  aside from pinhole images and a bit off topic .. Sally Mann
who
 is a well known photographer has photographed her family with large 8X10
 format cameras, with glass lenses of course, and the images she produces
seem
 to emote a warmth that subject (family ) knew the photographer well.

 Bottom line, Sarah, play or give yourself permission to play, your kids
will
 see this, and have fun too, and should you produce images out of this
play, I
 can bet they will be powerful ones . Good Luck, you are on your way .

 Dennis Alfrey
 dalf...@aol.com

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Re: [pinhole-discussion] getting somewhere (and a new question)

2002-04-16 Thread Bill Erickson
I find that if you leave the dark slide in, it tends to wobble or catch the
breeze and move the camera. I pull it out and then throw my jacket or a
black plastic bag over the back of the camera. that's what dark cloths are
for in large format lens photography.
- Original Message -
From: Matti Koskinen mjkos...@koti.soon.fi
To: pinhole-discussion@p at ???
Sent: Tuesday, April 16, 2002 6:21 AM
Subject: [pinhole-discussion] getting somewhere (and a new question)


 First, a warm thank to everybody. With your help I'm getting somewhere
 with this pinhole business, and getting results that are more and more
 better. Last evening I shot a picture from a rapid and as I was under a
 bridge and light conditions were not the best, approximating the effect
 of #0 filter, I came up to one hour exposure (which turned out to be bit
 too long). But as the exposure was so long, there's a light leak from
 the filmholder. Now the question is: is it better to remove the slider
 totally or leave it in the open position in the filmholder? The leak has
 come from the opening, it's not too bad (clone tools are invented), but
 the white edge of the negative has two dark dots from which two dark,
 but narrower stripes go diagonally over the entire negative. As I have
 never actually used large-size films, there are many things I need to
 ask or explore.
 Using low-contrast filter is now more than enough, so I don't have that
 hurry to move to use film. I even got some clouds visible :-)
 Main thing I'm pleased with using filter is, that the sky doesn't look
 totally burnt. Eg. trees seen against the sky have a distinct contour,
 not like without the filter when smaller branches just disappeared.
 And yesterday pinhole-camera showed it's superiority. I had a SLR and a
 digital camera too with me, but both run out of batteries, but with
 pinhole-cam, no problem :-)

 thanks

 -matti
 mjkos...@koti.soon.fi


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Re: [pinhole-discussion] pinhole coverage issue

2002-04-16 Thread Bill Erickson
A 0.44 mm aperture placed 145mm from the film will cover about 500 mm. The
formulas is that the coverage equals about 1 1/2 times the focal length
either side of center. Focal length is just the distance from the pinhole to
the film. It's really a misnomer because nothing focusses, it's just the
distance at which the light waves mesh best, for the optimally sharp image.
- Original Message -
From: Achal Pashine ac...@stanford.edu
To: pinhole-discussion@p at ???
Sent: Monday, April 15, 2002 6:31 PM
Subject: [pinhole-discussion] pinhole coverage issue


 Hello all,
 I am working with 4X5 film format (at 145mm length) with 0.44mm pinhole
 (~f/300). How do I find out what is the coverage of the 'lens' (is it
 equivalent to 50mm, 100mm 35mm camera lens?). How to make pinholes which
 will give wider angle coverage? I have seen shots taken with extreme wide
 angle pinholes. How does one do that?
 Does formula Pinhole diameter = 0.0073 * SQR(focal length) give some
known
 coverage?
 thanks,

 Achal


 - Original Message -
 From: Ray Esposito brassr...@brassring.org
 To: pinhole-discussion@p at ???
 Sent: Monday, April 15, 2002 7:58 AM
 Subject: Re: [pinhole-discussion] developing tanks/pinhole cam [was paper
 negative tricks]


  Jim - there is no pricing on the XD. Ray
 
  - Original Message -
  From: Jim Kosinski mer...@paintcancamera.com
  To: pinhole-discussion@p at ???
  Sent: Monday, April 15, 2002 8:12 AM
  Subject: Re: [pinhole-discussion] developing tanks/pinhole cam [was
  paper negative tricks]
 
 
   The Merlin-XD pinhole camera is made from a film developing
   tank. Check the website for details,
   www.paintcancamera.com
  
   Jim K
  
 
 
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Re: [pinhole-discussion] Source for 8x10 film holders

2002-04-08 Thread Bill Erickson
I've seen a number of wooden ones on Ebay.
- Original Message - 
From: Greg Newberry grnewbe...@qwest.net
To: Pinhole-Discussion pinhole-discussion@p at ???
Sent: Monday, April 08, 2002 8:10 PM
Subject: [pinhole-discussion] Source for 8x10 film holders


 Hi, I want to buy a few used (but good) 8x10 film holders for my pinhole
 photos. Is there a good source you know of?
 
 
 Thanks
 Greg
 
 
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[pinhole-discussion] scanners

2002-03-21 Thread Bill Erickson
This seems like an opportune time for a variation on the scaner topic. I
have negative scanners but my flatbed scanner is older and not too adequate.
Any advice on choice of flatbed scanner for prints, not negs?




Re: [pinhole-discussion] Epson Perfection 1250 Photo Flatbed Scanner

2002-03-21 Thread Bill Erickson
Are these good scanners for opaque material or are they just attractive
because they offer the opportunity to scan negatives?
- Original Message -
From: dalf...@aol.com
To: pinhole-discussion@p at ???
Sent: Thursday, March 21, 2002 12:08 AM
Subject: Re: [pinhole-discussion] Epson Perfection 1250 Photo Flatbed
Scanner


 In a message dated 3/20/02 11:35:35 PM Central Standard Time,
 pinholeren...@netscape.net writes:

  the epson 2450 is a great scanner costing around $375.00 . It has 35mm
  ,120mm  4x5 capabilities . several photo magazines have given it rave
  revues . If you can save up for it you will not be disappointed . I feel
  it is a very good value for your money .
  chip renner 
 Following this thread, I have seen the Canon1240 U advertised in several
 photo mags, and supposedly , I say with some degree of caution, you can
scan
 ANY neg sizes up to 4X5, plus whatever flat print work you would like ,
price
 is about $299.00, saw it in BH photo catlogue I think, just FWIW

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Re: [pinhole-discussion] Pinhole Calculations

2002-03-11 Thread Bill Erickson
Well, actually, the angle of view depends on there being a flat film plane
interposed on the hemispheric optimal image distance. The average 'angle of
view' is 1.5FL either side of the axis. Light falloff is a function of the
different distance from the pinhole at different points on the flat film
plane, plus the changing apparent shape of the pinhole as you move off-axis.
Film configurations that approximate the chape of the optimal image,. i.e.
half cylinder cameras, have only the light fall off due to the change in
apparent shape of the pinhole, but no falloff due to change in pinhole-film
distance since theat is the same for the full 180 degrees. They give good
exposure through all 180 degrees.
- Original Message -
From: Richard M. Koolish kool...@bbn.com
To: pinhole-discussion@p at ???
Sent: Monday, March 11, 2002 9:30 AM
Subject: Re: [pinhole-discussion] Pinhole Calculations


 photo...@earthlink.net writes:

  Query to Larry Bullis:
 
 
   I have experimented with a set of 12 pinholes obtained fromCalumet,
ranging
  from 0.0059 to
  0.032 inches in diameter, on a 4x5 view camera.
   It quickly became apparent that angle of view is dependent only only on
  lens to film plane
  distance.  Any of the 12 varying pinhole sizes give the same angle of
view
  at a given bellows extension.
  The difference is in the amount of light admitted by the pinhole
aperture.
  Thus it makes sense that, as
  the pinhole aperture becomes smaller , admitting less light, the bellows
  extension  must decrease, to
  maintain the same amount of light,  which means the focal length gets
  smaller. You've given a formula
  to calculate the optimum pinhole size for a given focal length to give
the
  sharpest image.
  The formula is pinhole(in) = square root FL x 0.0073 or pinhole(mm)=
square
  root FL x 0.03679.
 
  My question is; does this formula really give the sharpest image?
 
  First, you've said  that depth of field  is essentially uniform from
near to
  far and somewhat soft
  because of diffraction. Since, for a given focal length,
aperture(pinhole)
  varies inversly with f-stop, the
  formula must be designed to balance pinhole against f-stop, one
admitting
  more light and the other
  admitting less light. The constant (.oo73 or .03679) is what determines
the
  answer.  So, now the
  question is; How is the constant determined? Does it give the sharpest
  image or is it just a trade off
  between exposure time and pinhole size? Do smaller pinholes give more
  diffraction and thus less sharp
  images? Using a different constant will gives different answers; what is
  unique about the given
  constants?
 


 1.  You are right in observing that the angle of view depends only on
the
 distance from pinhole to film, and has nothing to do with the size of
 the pinhole.  The easiest way to visualize what is happening is to
make
 a scale drawing of the camera, showing the film plane and the pinhole
 at the desired distance from the film.  Straight lines drawn from the
 edge of the film through the pinhole show you the angle of view.  Note
 that the intensity of light from the pinhole does fall off as you move
 from the center of the film toward the edge of the film, both because
 the film get farther from the pinhole, and because when viewed from an
 angle, the circular pinhole looks more and more elliptical and has a
 smaller effective area.

 2.  The calculation for 'optimal' pinhole usually starts with some
 assumption about the physics of light going through a small hole.
 Since every aperture, hole or lens, produces a diffraction pattern, one
 'rule' is:

 The size of the optimal pinhole for a given focal length is the
 size of the diffraction disk it produces.

 The theory behind this rule is that a larger hole would produce a
 larger geometrical beam of light coming through, and therefore a
less
 sharp image, while a smaller hole would produce a larger diffraction
 spot, and therefore also produces a less sharp image.

 Note that the size of the diffraction disk depends on the wavelength
 (color) of light.  One common assumption is to assume a wavelength of
 500 or 550 nanometers (nm).  This is a green color.  If you use
 panchromatic film, red light coming through the pinhole will make a
 slightly larger diffraction spot.  But nothing is is very critical
 here.

 Nothing in this rule takes into account the f number of the pinhole.
 The f number is just something that results from computing the optimal
 pinhole for a desired focal distance.  Because the optimal pinhole size
 increases only as the square root of the focal distance, the f number
 gets larger and larger as the focal distance increases.

 3.  Since you have a number of pinholes, you can try some of them at a
 fixed focal distance and what happens.  Please report on your
findings.

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Re: [pinhole-discussion] Zero 6x9 pinhole

2002-03-10 Thread Bill Erickson
There are at least two different formulas for the pinhole to film plane
distance question. There are lots of different tables already calculated
that have been referred to before. See Eric Renner's book for a long
detailed description. Also, since you can be off from the right distance
by a factor of 10 and still get usable images, just try something and see
what you get.

 - Original Message -
From: cfowler cfowl...@tampabay.rr.com
To: pinhole-discussion@p at ???
Sent: Saturday, March 09, 2002 7:49 AM
Subject: [pinhole-discussion] Zero 6x9 pinhole


 Hi all,

 How about different subject than photoflo !

 I am getting ready to order the zero 6x9 multiformat pinhole
 camera, has anybody used this camera's ? is it worth 200 Bucks ?
 I have mostly used large format camera's, I have a big 5x7 view
 camera, I dont think it be hard to convert to pinhole but how do
 select the distance of the bellows ( pinhole to film plane ) ?
 is there certain rule ?

 C.H. Fowler


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Re: [pinhole-discussion] Photo-flo

2002-03-06 Thread Bill Erickson
Don't know about the photo-flo, but I have dried film in all sorts of
configurations. One time I left a roll of film hanging for ayear to see how
much dust it accumulated (surprisingly little, probaby because it was
vertical and in a protected corner with no airflow.). If the film is in an
area where there is little airflow it will dry without dust. I made a drying
cabinet, just a vertical box with no fan, which works well also. I'd worry
about dust if you just used a fan.
- Original Message -
From: Tim Midkiff ku...@vci.net
To: pinhole-discussion@p at ???
Sent: Wednesday, March 06, 2002 10:56 AM
Subject: [pinhole-discussion] Photo-flo


 Hi all,

 This may be a bit off topic but, is there a readily available
 subsitute for kodak photo-flo? I happen to be at home today and need to
 develop some images, both pinhole and otherwise, and i'm being plagued
 with spots and such. please send and ideas!!!

 Also what do you folks with darkrooms at home do about drying film?
 Has anyone build a small film drying cabinet? Or seen plans or worthy
 ideas? since I do both 120 and 35roll at home some, I would like
 something small and cheap(!) would it be feasible to construct
 something to dry a few rolls (2-4) of 120? maybe use muffin fans? maybe
 this is just wishful thinking and not practical. could 35mm film be
 held by both ends up in a U shape to conserve space? there I go
 dreaming again.

   Most importantly, the photo-flo.

 thanks, tim

 Timothy S. Midkiff

 Photographers get a Click out of life!

 ku...@vci.net
 psycho_...@excite.com


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Re: [pinhole-discussion] Favorite Cameras?

2002-03-04 Thread Bill Erickson
The first rule of pinhole is Play!. Try what you said and see if you like
it. My impression is that a lot of the pinholers here use converted lens
cameras or the Zero series. Next favorite is the curved film plane ones,
with the oatmeal carton being the prototype. Figuring out what you yourself
like is half the fun. - Original Message -
From: Steve Bell veracity...@earthlink.net
To: pinhole-discussion@p at ???
Sent: Sunday, March 03, 2002 9:20 PM
Subject: [pinhole-discussion] Favorite Cameras?


 Hey Everyone,

 I haven't yet begun to construct my first pinhole camera. I'm so busy with
 school work and everything. I have a question for you all. What is your
 favorite type of pinhole camera? i know that there are tons of ways to
 construct one, so i'm interested in hearing what you all use. I've got an
 old Minolta XG-1 and i've been thinking about maybe converting it into a
 little pinhole camera, any tips? Sorry for the relatively general
 questions.

 thanks,

 Steve


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Re: [pinhole-discussion] New photo: Rome double exposure

2002-03-04 Thread Bill Erickson
Very nice. I have played around with double exposures, pinhole and
otherwise. I find that including sky in the first exposure tends to
eliminate the second exposure appearing there.
- Original Message -
From: Mark Interrante m...@interwalk.com
To: pinhole-discussion@p at ???
Sent: Sunday, March 03, 2002 9:02 PM
Subject: [pinhole-discussion] New photo: Rome double exposure


 Here is a recent double exposure:


http://www.???/discussion/upload/gallery2002.php?pic=mark_int
errante_rome.jpg

 Mark

 Ps. technical details: Zeroimage 6x9 pinhole
 Photo1 - Santa Maria Degli Angeli Church (remodeled by Michelangelo)
originally
 the Baths of Diocletian with myself standing in the church
 Photo2 - View overlooking Rome from the Castle Saint Angelo in rome.





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Re: [pinhole-discussion] Hand made darkslides

2002-03-03 Thread Bill Erickson
I changed it to plain text the last time this went around. I looked at it in
Outlook Express again. It says it's sending in plain text, but the settings
for sending mail and sending news were different. I made themthe same. the
format options thing on this message says it's plain text. let me know what
you get.
- Original Message -
From: Guy Glorieux guy.glori...@sympatico.ca
To: pinhole-discussion@p at ???
Sent: Sunday, March 03, 2002 9:01 AM
Subject: Re: [pinhole-discussion] Hand made darkslides


 Hi Bill,

 May I also kindly ask that you turn your HTML (Rich-text) email to Plain
 text.
 I you are using Outlook Express, go to Format on the options on the top
 and then down the column, click on Plain Text.  You can also go to
 your address book and mark the pinhole list address as always send in
 Plain text when you go to the name tab.
 Thnaks for your attention,
 Guy Glorieux

 - Original Message -
 From: Bill Erickson erick...@hickorytech.net
 To: pinhole-discussion@p at ???
 Sent: Sunday, March 03, 2002 8:55 AM
 Subject: Re: [pinhole-discussion] Hand made darkslides


 I've tried it, can't say with much success. I was making a film holder
 for a daguerreotype plate by laminating succesive layers of model
 airplane plywood, using one of the thinner pieces for the dark slide. it
 worked OK for the dag because the plate is so slow', but for film or
 photographic paper I think you'd need to add felt or something to make
 the slot more light tight. You'll also need to pay close attention to
 light tightness around the film holder and at the closed end.
   - Original Message -
   From: Myisp
   To: pinhole-discussion@p at ???
   Sent: Sunday, March 03, 2002 4:02 AM
   Subject: [pinhole-discussion] Hand made darkslides


   Has anyone tried making their own darkslides?  I am thinking of making
 a 10x8 camera and would like to be able to take more than one photo
 before returning to the darkroom.



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Re: [pinhole-discussion] Hand made darkslides

2002-03-03 Thread Bill Erickson
I've tried it, can't say with much success. I was making a film holder for a 
daguerreotype plate by laminating succesive layers of model airplane plywood, 
using one of the thinner pieces for the dark slide. it worked OK for the dag 
because the plate is so slow', but for film or photographic paper I think 
you'd need to add felt or something to make the slot more light tight. You'll 
also need to pay close attention to light tightness around the film holder and 
at the closed end.
  - Original Message - 
  From: Myisp 
  To: pinhole-discussion@p at ??? 
  Sent: Sunday, March 03, 2002 4:02 AM
  Subject: [pinhole-discussion] Hand made darkslides


  Has anyone tried making their own darkslides?  I am thinking of making a 10x8 
camera and would like to be able to take more than one photo before returning 
to the darkroom.


Re: [pinhole-discussion] question and website

2002-03-01 Thread Bill Erickson
That's some sort of diffraction pattern, I assume from internal reflections.
if you figure it out let me know. i made one camera that did the same thing
and i could never isolate the source.
- Original Message -
From: Daniel Donnelly danieldonne...@yahoo.com
To: pinhole-discussion@p at ???
Sent: Friday, March 01, 2002 11:09 AM
Subject: [pinhole-discussion] question and website


 hello, have recently taken a load of photos (about 40)
 out in Egypt. The problem is though is that there
 seems to be a mark in the centre of the print. It was
 a home made pinhole camera. The photos can be viewed
 at
 http://www.picturetrail.com/danieldonnelly
 if you click on random stuff. They r called me and
 water. Hope u can tell em what it is from, Daniel

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Re: [pinhole-discussion] New Pictures uploaded!

2002-02-25 Thread Bill Erickson
Very nice. I like the kalotype best. I think it's neat to have the whole
process be handmade.
- Original Message -
From: Ingo Guenther ingoguent...@web.de
To: pinhole-discussion@p at ???
Sent: Friday, January 25, 2002 6:02 PM
Subject: [pinhole-discussion] New Pictures uploaded!


 Hi all!

 I added two images to the upload gallery at


http://www.???/discussion/upload/gallery2002.php?pic=ingo_gue
 nther_cyanotypie_1.jpg

http://www.???/discussion/upload/gallery2002.php?pic=ingo_gue
 nther_kalotypie_1.jpg

 The cyanotypie was made in a home-made wooden camera on 4x5 inch sheet
 film at a cloister near Hude, Germany printed on self-coated aquarell
paper
 in a cyanotypie process.

 The kalotypie was made in a home-made Coffee Canister in the center of
my
 home town Oldenburg, Germany on a sheet film printed on self coated
aquarell
 paper in a kalotypie process.

 Thanks for looking, Ingo


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Re: [pinhole-discussion] New image saloon uploaded on behalf of Pete Eckert

2002-02-25 Thread Bill Erickson
Thanks for the response. I was looking at the picture and realizing that one
could sense the space by feel, heat, noise and the warmth from sunlight.
- Original Message -
From: pete eckert peteeck...@mindspring.com
To: pinhole-discussion@p at ???
Sent: Monday, February 25, 2002 1:54 PM
Subject: Re: [pinhole-discussion] New image saloon uploaded on behalf of
Pete Eckert


 You are correct. I have only been totally blind for a few years. I still
 dream in full vision. I've been learning how to take pictures for about a
 year.

 I was a sculptor. I lost my vision slowly. I adapted and got an MBA. Four
 years ago I left my job as a business consultant. I spent a while
 considering what to do next. First I was a martial arts instructor.
Martial
 arts have been one of my methods of adaptation. That job made me realize
 that the senses could be pushed much further than I assumed. Now I am
 returning to art to apply what I learned from the last job.

 Vision takes up an enormous amount of nerve bundles in the brain. It is
 possible to rewire all of that to be of use to the other senses, as long
as
 you have a understanding of the data coming in. Like a baby learning to
 see, sight is meaningless until the mind can grasp the information. I am
 working on learning how to translate the other senses to a minds eye view.

 enough background info, on to responding to your post.

 I would still have some interest in light if I was blind from birth: like
a
 astronomer viewing objects in space using radio waves. I use sighted folks
 descriptions of my finished photos to confirm or disprove what I
envisioned
 in my minds eye. The process of taking photos is an event for me not a
 product. Once the product has been manufactured I involve sighted people
in
 the art process. Their descriptions of my finished photos help me sharpen
 my senses to go out and apply what I have learned. I avoid asking for any
 help in taking the actual picture because that would alter the photos by
 making them from a sighted perspective.

 I have learned to question my own assumptions and those of others. I focus
 on exploring the range of my senses. this makes what I am up to more
 conceptual art rather than photography. While trying to teach sighted
 fighters to spar blind folded I learned that sight masks the other senses.
 It is as if there is only a set amount of attention available. When sight
 is removed the other senses don't become stronger. The brain just has that
 area once used by sight available. actively attempting to rewire that area
 results in a better ability to translate the other senses to minds eye
 sight. I suspect the areas in my brain once used by sight would still show
 up as active if studied with medical devices: (as if sight was stimulated
 in a dream.
 Conceiving this particular photo involved stepping in from the warm sun
 into a cool bar. Sound gave a clear impression of the dimensions of the
 room. I could hear the people at the bar. So they were easy to track. I
can
 track about 6-8peoples movements  at once before I become a little
 overwhelmed. I like a complete range of black to white in most of my
images
 so I went to the coolest area knowing that would be the darkest. There was
 no air conditioning running. Once in the back of the bar I listened for
all
 of the window openings and doors to the out side. Knowing where the
 openings are allows me to know about the lighting. getting a drink was a
 good excuse to investigate the bar area by touch. I returned to my seat by
 a different rout to explore the area further. I moved to a lower seat to
 listen for the reflected sound bouncing off lower objects. the people were
 coming and going a little to quickly for what I thought was a pin hole
 shot. I am still blushing the borrowed camera was zone plate. I waited for
 some heavy drinkers to settle in at the bar. I setup slowly taking in as
 much information as I could. as I was told by  a wise old Grandfather 
 anything worth doing is worth doing slow. using slow speed film gives me
a
 wider range of reciprocity failure. It is more forgiving to errors in
light
 estimation.


 Hopefully the above was of interest and answered your questions..

 Pete

 P.S.

 In response to Andy's post-- If I drink to much I tend to forget to
advance
 the film


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Re: [pinhole-discussion] New image saloon uploaded on behalf of Pete Eckert

2002-02-25 Thread Bill Erickson
As ithink about your image, i have a question which I think pertains to our
art and is not just ersonal poking around. I have had experience with
hearing impaired people, and I have the impression that those who have been
deaf since birth and do not experience sound except as a sense of vibration
are not much interested in subtleties of sound. I wonder if the same applies
to visual impariment, and, if so, from your image I would predict that at
one time you had useful vision. If not, could you talk a bit about how you
conceived the composition?
- Original Message -
From: pete eckert peteeck...@mindspring.com
To: pinhole-discussion@p at ???
Sent: Sunday, February 24, 2002 8:41 PM
Subject: Re: [pinhole-discussion] New image saloon uploaded on behalf of
Pete Eckert


 Guy,

 sorry for the silly question. But can't a camera be both pin hole and zone
 plate?

 The shot I sent in was from a zero 2000Pin hole camera I was testing out.
 the shop told me it had a zone plate in it.

 as I understand it the image is formed on the plate after coming through
 the pin hole. I don't know much about zone plates and view them something
 like filters.

 Pete



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Re: [pinhole-discussion] New image saloon uploaded on behalf of Pete Eckert

2002-02-24 Thread Bill Erickson
Amazing!
- Original Message -
From: Steve Wilson steve.wil...@eyeconcur.com
To: pinhole-discussion@p at ???
Cc: peteeck...@mindspring.com
Sent: Sunday, February 24, 2002 9:26 AM
Subject: [pinhole-discussion] New image saloon uploaded on behalf of Pete
Eckert


 A new image, Saloon, has been uploaded in the 2002 gallery.  The image
 was taken by Pete Eckert. I am posting for him since scanners 
 photos editing software tend to play havoc with his speech recognition
 software.  Pete is the contributor to the group who is blind.  Here are
 Pete's words describing the image capture process.

 It is of a dive bar in San Francisco called the Saloon. It was shot
 by sound,heat, and touch. There was also a single dry Manhattan involved
 as I recall which approximated the exposure time.


 www.???/discussion/upload/gallery2002.php?cmd=maxstart=
 pic=saloon.jpg

 ***
 Steve Wilson
 Bainbridge Island, WA
 Email: steve.wil...@eyeconcur.com




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Re: [pinhole-discussion] Type 55 reciprocity adjustments

2002-02-21 Thread Bill Erickson
All suggestions will work, but just letting it dry and then re-wetting it
when you want to clear it worked OK for me.
- Original Message -
From: dalf...@aol.com
To: pinhole-discussion@p at ???
Sent: Thursday, February 21, 2002 12:09 AM
Subject: Re: [pinhole-discussion] Type 55 reciprocity adjustments


 While the focus is on discussion of Typ55 Polaroid films, I have a
question.
 Once I press the  process lever on my 4X5 film holder and pull and  wait
 the amount of time needed to develop correctly , I then peel apart the
 'pod(?) and seperate the negative from the positive print , and wash in
Hypo
 Clearing Agent , then hang to dry, and print from there , once the neg is
dry
 .This is easily done at home , but
 My question to those of you who use Type 55 in the field is this, How do
you
 keep the negative moist until you get home and can process the neg with
HCA ?
  A holding tank of some sort, a bucket of water, zip lock baggie filled
with
 water, ? Any suggestions . ?

 Thanks
 dalf...@aol.com

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Re: [pinhole-discussion] umm (ortho-litho development)

2002-02-21 Thread Bill Erickson
If you use lith developer, you will get only blacks and whites. If you use
dektol1:2 you will get some shades of grey. It's easy to try other film or
paper developers since you can develop by inspection, just deelop until it
stops changing. I think you'll get more pleasing results using Dektol. More
poster-like with kodalith developer.
- Original Message -
From: R Duarte ra...@rahji.com
To: pinhole-discussion@p at ???
Sent: Wednesday, February 20, 2002 8:26 PM
Subject: [pinhole-discussion] umm (ortho-litho development)


 ummm, sorry.. i also wanted to ask if anyone has sort of a summary of
 developing techniques for that ortho-litho stuff (eg which chemicals in
 which dilutions).  i wish there was an easier way to search the archives.
 :-/

 thanks again,
 rob


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Re: [pinhole-discussion] ASA for ortho-litho film (again)

2002-02-20 Thread Bill Erickson
Try 5 or 10. Instead of under or over exposure what you get is more or less
black areas. it's alsmost a matter of personal taste.
- Original Message -
From: ra...@rahji.com
To: pinhole-discussion@p at ???
Cc: ra...@rahji.com
Sent: Wednesday, February 20, 2002 2:44 PM
Subject: [pinhole-discussion] ASA for ortho-litho film (again)



 Hey everyone,
 I'm sorry, but I've searched the archives all morning - I even downloaded
 the 18MB file and searched it that way - and I can't find the answers to
the
 question that I asked last year about the ASA of the ortho-litho film that
I
 got from photo warehouse (i think) last spring.  They're 35mm rolls and I
 remember being surprised at the low ASA number someone suggested.
 Thanks again if anyone remembers what it was.

 Rob.


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Re: [pinhole-discussion] Type 55 reciprocity adjustments

2002-02-20 Thread Bill Erickson
My memory of my work with type 55 is that the reciprocity corrections used
for other film worked fine with type 55. I exposed for negative, not
positive, ASA 25.
- Original Message -
From: Markus Birsfelder b...@freesurf.ch
To: pinhole-discussion@p at ???
Sent: Wednesday, February 20, 2002 11:12 AM
Subject: AW: [pinhole-discussion] Type 55 reciprocity adjustments


 I am not sure you refer to this post, but here is what I have saved:

 ==
 Guy,

 Back in the 1974 Jim Shull published The Hole Thing, a pinhole
photography
 book which includes a table of
 reciprocity corrections for enlarging paper used in pinhole cameras.
 (Apparently he was using Luminos
 Industrial F which he rated at an ASA of 10.)

 Using Shull as a starting point and gathering a few other data points from
 web sites such as those of George
 Smyth, Airtime, and Penate and adding in my own experience, I have
 constructed a reciprocity table that works
 for orthochromatic BW paper in pinhole cameras in sunlight:

 Indicated Exposure  Corrected exposure
 32 secs   1 min 15 secs
 45 secs   1 min 50 secs
 64 secs   3 mins
 91 secs   4 mins 40 secs
 128 secs 7 mins
 181 secs10 mins 50 secs
 256 secs16 mins 40 secs
 362 secs25 mins
 512 secs40 mins
 724 secs64 mins
 1024 secs  104 mins

 Using this table, I can consistently get good shadow detail (an indication
 of proper exposure) with Agfa
 Multicontrast Premium and Ilford Multigrade IV RC papers.  Although these
 papers have different published
 paper speeds, I have found that assigning them the same daylight ASA of
6
 works in practice.

 In the darkroom under enlarger light, BW paper does not seem to exhibit
 much reciprocity departure up to
 times around two minutes.  Possibly the fact that in sunshine the light
 meter is measuring a good deal of
 light to which the paper is not sensitive may account for some of the
 variation from indicated time.  My
 pinhole cameras have had f/stops ranging from about 180 to about 360, so
 most of my work has been in the 4 to
 40 minutes range.

 Bob

 p.s.  I have also found that using a yellow filter on the camera with
these
 papers lowers the contrast and
 yields a paper negative that is much easier to print, but of course still
 results in that orthochromatic
 look.  The filter blocks UV and allows you to optimize the camera for the
 wave lengths to which the paper
 responds, i.e., about 500nm.

 ==
 -Ursprungliche Nachricht-
 Von: pinhole-discussion-admin@p at ???
 [mailto:pinhole-discussion-admin@p at ???]Im Auftrag von Howard Wells
 Gesendet: Mittwoch, 20. Februar 2002 16:44
 An: pinhole-discussion@p at ???
 Betreff: [pinhole-discussion] Type 55 reciprocity adjustments


 Late last year a list member published a chart of reciprocity
 adjustments with Type 55 Polaroid. I printed it out, lost it, and now
 can't find it in the archives. Some interior work has taken me into
 uncharted (to me) realms with this wonderful material. Help and thanks.
 Howard Wells

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Re: [pinhole-discussion] 120 slide film?

2002-02-19 Thread Bill Erickson
No. They're bigger and you will need a different, and much more expensive,
slide projector. Sorry.
- Original Message -
From: R Duarte ra...@rahji.com
To: pinhole-discussion@p at ???
Sent: Tuesday, February 19, 2002 7:18 PM
Subject: [pinhole-discussion] 120 slide film?


 Hi.  Stupid question.. if I buy and shoot 120 slide film in my Zero2000,
are
 the slides the same size as the ones I get from 35mm film?  ie: can I use
 them in an ordinary slide projector or viewer?

 Thanks for any info,
 Rob


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Re: [pinhole-discussion] Pinhole Planet new cameras

2002-02-17 Thread Bill Erickson
I've seen the prototype and talked to the fellow, but i haven't seen any
pictures. It seems to be well thought out.
- Original Message -
From: Tom Harvey harv...@aracnet.com
To: pinhole-discussion@p at ???
Sent: Saturday, February 16, 2002 8:41 PM
Subject: [pinhole-discussion] Pinhole Planet new cameras


 http://www.pinholeplanet.com/Home/home.html

 I just ran across a new pinhole camera listed on eBay.  The
 manufacturer's website is listed above.  It is under construction, so
 not much to learn yet.

 You can actually see the camera on the eBay listing at:

 http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemitem=1333483183

 This wonderful thing is a hand made pinhole camera produced by
 pinhole planet. It's a 4x5 dual focal length pinhole. This camera has
 both wide and super wide modes, 12mm and 24mm. The body is hand
 crafted in solid oak. Designed around a laser-drilled pinhole lens
 and integrated shutter slide for maximum exposure control. The camera
 accepts all 4x5 backs but can be used without one with a little more
 hassle.



 That is all I know.  I am not affiliated in any way with the maker or
 the seller.  It does look interesting.

 Tom


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Re: [pinhole-discussion] new AOL tins; limits on wide-angle pinhole?

2002-02-17 Thread Bill Erickson
If the focal distance is 1/3 inch, you could expect a visible image cone
of about 1 inch. The rule of thumb is one and a half focal lengths either
side of the axis.
- Original Message -
From: J.E. Patterson pinh...@lightjunkie.org
To: pinhole-discussion@p at ???
Sent: Saturday, February 16, 2002 8:41 PM
Subject: [pinhole-discussion] new AOL tins; limits on wide-angle pinhole?



 The ubiquitous AOL trial CDs have begun appearing in a different
 packaging in our neighborhood; a metal tin slightly larger than a CD
 and about 1/3 inch in height.  From this sprang several questions: if
 this was made into a pinhole, how wide angle of a pinhole would
 it be (I can do the calculation if given the formula, I think) and is it
 going to cover the whole area of the back? I guess what I mean to
 ask is what are the limits of the image cone?

 Cheers,
 Jane
 --
 J.E. Patterson
 www.lightjunkie.org | www.luxumbradei.com

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Re: [pinhole-discussion] contast

2002-02-14 Thread Bill Erickson
You might be getting some flare from shooting toward the sun. this flattens
out contrast. Also maybe some fogging? It is said to be very difficult to
boost contrast with Ilford film. try tmax.
- Original Message -
From: Liav Koren yu257...@yorku.ca
To: pinhole-discussion@p at ???
Sent: Wednesday, February 13, 2002 8:39 PM
Subject: [pinhole-discussion] contast


 I've been working with a small pinhole that I made from a disposable
 camera. I've been using 35mm delta100, developed in D76, per ilford's
 recommendations, and I've been finding the negatives to be very flat -
 I've been pretty much using #3 and higher filters. Anyone have any
 recommendations for better contrast, other then push development?


  -Liav Koren.


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Re: [pinhole-discussion] Angle of ligh

2002-02-12 Thread Bill Erickson
Since you brought this up, there are two factors influencing the intensity
of light at the film plane, the distance from the pinhole and the angle off
axis. As you move off axis of a flat film plane, the distance from the
pinhole to the film grows, and the apparent shape of the pinhole changes
from round to narrower and narrower. The so called fourth power of the
cosine law governs. The intensity at any point on a flat film plane equals
the intensity at the axis point times the cosine, to the fourth power,  of
the angle off axis. When you curve the film around the pinhole you
counteract half of it because the film is always the same distance, and the
only darkening you get at the edges is due to the change in the apparent
shape of the pinhole.
 - Original Message -
From: ragowaring ragowar...@btinternet.com
To: pinhole-discussion@p at ???
Sent: Tuesday, February 12, 2002 2:33 PM
Subject: Re: [pinhole-discussion] Angle of ligh


 Dear Joao

 I'm no mathematician but I think you will find that the parts of the film
 nearest the pinhole will receive a greater amount of light for a given
area
 than parts of the film further away

 This is because of the inverse square law, which states simply that the
 radiation falling on a surface from a point source will decrease inversely
 proportinally with distance by 1/xsquared where x is the distance.

 This means that for every doubling of the distance from the source, the
 amount of radiation reaching a given area is quartered (that is because
the
 same radiation has to cover four times the area  covered at half the
 distance).

 Imagine the area covered by a cone (of radiation if you like) - it is
 actually easier to imagine this as a four sided pyramid, so I shall
continue
 with this visualisation.  The square at the base of the pyramid is 1
square
 unit. The point of the pyramid is the source.  Radiation will reach the
base
 at a given rate, say one unit of radiation per second.

 If you double the height of the pyramid, which is equivalent to doubling
the
 distance from the source of radiation, you will find that the base of the
 pyramid is now four times the area of the first pyramid - four squares of
 one unit each or one big square four times the area.

 Now come the fun part.  The radiation reaching this larger square in a
given
 time is the same as that reaching the 1 unit square at half the distance.
 That is to say, one unit of radiation per second.  But this time that one
 unit has to cover four times the area as the radiation spreads out.

 Therefore each square unit at double the distance recieves a quarter of
the
 radiation per second.  Therefore a doubling in the distance from a point
 source of radiation results in one quarter of the radiation falling on one
 unit area!

 This explains why on wide angle pinhole photographs, the sides of the
 negative come out less dense - because they are further away from the
 pinhole and therefore less light reaches them per given time.  It is this
 per given time that is all important when calculating exposures with focal
 lengths etc.

 Now, when the film is parallel to the plane of the pinhole, i.e. at the
back
 of the camera, normally the inverse square law has a small effect,
 particularly if the angle of acceptance or vision is small.

 However, if you put the film on the camera side walls, the effect becomes
 very significant indeed.  The parts nearer the pinhole will need a
 considerably shorter exposure that those further away.

 This however, can be compensated for if the side wall of the camera are
 short, that is to say, the camera has a short focal length.


 Enough of theory, the thing is to EXPERIMEMT!

 It is so much easier with pictures

 By the way, the above explanation is an approximation because in real life
 the base of the pyramid would be curved and not flat, but it is close
 enought to get the picture - sorry no pun intended

 Alexis









 on 12/2/02 5:40 pm, Joao Ribeiro at jribe...@greco.com.br wrote:

  Thanks Bill and Guillermo for your answers.
 
  But ...
 
  Geometrically/mathematically speaking, the angle changes when the
  pinhole diameter changes, the change is so small tho, that in practice
you
  can dismiss it.  Since you want to calculate the cone angle,
otherwise
  known as angle of view, here is a formula I just derived that takes
the
  pinhole diameter into consideration:
 
  Cone angle = ArcTan [ (D+P) / (2 * B) ]
 
  Where
  D = Diagonal of your film format
  P = Pinhole diameter
  B = Bellows extension (or focal length)
 
  As you can see, the effect of adding P to D is very small, i.e., for
8x10,
  D would be equal to about 325mm if you add to that a P of 0.5mm,
you get
  325.5mm, again, not a big change.  The same happens if you change the
  pinhole diameter.
 
  I'm not sure this is the answer to my question. If I could send a
drawing
  attached to the list it would be easier, but this is what I want:
 
  I imagine a light entering the box/camera and 

Re: [pinhole-discussion] Angle of ligh

2002-02-11 Thread Bill Erickson
When you increase the focal length but leave the negative size the same all
you do is decrease the angle of acceptance of the light beam. You sample a
smaller portion of the potential image. I can't see how the size of the
pinhole would make a difference, except that it casts an optimal potential
image that is greater in radius. I figure out these things by drawing them
out. I suspect Trigonometry would work but to me that's a dark science, one
to which I have not been admitted.
- Original Message -
From: Joao Ribeiro jribe...@greco.com.br
To: pinhole-discussion@p at ???
Sent: Monday, February 11, 2002 6:51 PM
Subject: [pinhole-discussion] Angle of ligh


 Hi folks,

 I have a question, but I'm not sure I'll be able to put it properly.
 Here it goes:

 When the light enters the camera, it enters in an angle the depends on
 the pinhole diameter or this angle is constant?
 Imagine I have a pinhole of 0.5 mm. If I make a bellows camera and set
 it to say 50 mm focal distance using an 8x10 film I'll have a very wide
 angle image. But if I enlarge the bellows distance to 500 mm I'll then
 have a telephoto image. Well, actually the image cone will be the
 same, I'm just choosing a section of the cone farther away from the
 pinhole or origin, and I am also selecting part of this cone to be
 recorded. How can I calculate the cone angle? Will changes in the
 pinhole diameter make any difference in this angle or it will always be
 constant?

 I hope I could make myself clear!
 Thanks in advance for any info,

 Joao


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Re: [pinhole-discussion] Lull in the conversation

2002-02-10 Thread Bill Erickson
Great image. I'm reminded of some postings here a while ago of trafic and
people in times square. I don't care much for zone plate still lifes, but it
gives an interesting sort of surrealism to people.
- Original Message -
From: Mark Interrante m...@interwalk.com
To: pinhole-discussion@p at ???
Sent: Saturday, February 09, 2002 9:19 PM
Subject: [pinhole-discussion] Lull in the conversation


 Hi,

 Here is something to toss into the lull in our conversation

 Last year I came across some portraits at the Fraenkel Gallery in SF and
 was quite moved by them.  In the same vein I recently took some Zone Plate
 photos:

http://www.???/discussion/upload/gallery2002.php?cmd=maxstar
t=pic=markinterranteclown.jpg

 Here are the Portraits from the Gallery along with some discussion:
http://www.culturevulture.net/ArtandArch/Sugimoto.htm


 Mark
 http://www.interwalk.com/pinhole.htm




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Re: [pinhole-discussion] list is fine (?)

2002-02-09 Thread Bill Erickson
I noticed the lapse also. I think it's happened before on weekends. I
thought maybe I'd done something wrong and was being shunned. Nice to know
it's not so.
- Original Message -
From: Ricardo Wildberger Lisboa wildber...@svn.com.br
To: pinhole-discussion@p at ???
Sent: Saturday, February 09, 2002 7:00 PM
Subject: Re: [pinhole-discussion] list is fine (?)


 Gregg,

 As you see I got your message, but nobody else's. Isn't that strange ?
God,
 where's the others ? On 08/02/02 I got no messages. Never saw this
 happens. Did you receive any ? If the whole list took a nap you shouldn't
 have received any either; if you had, so the problem maybe was in my
 provider or a momentary comunication gap between only us, since I received
 messages from other folks. The feeling now is that the whole cyberspace is
 only ours !

 So, as the night is beautiful here, think I go outside a take some very
long
 exposure shots in old colonial narrow stone paved streets.

 Ricardo.


 - Original Message -
 From: Gregg Kemp gregg.kemp@???
 To: pinhole-discussion@p at ???
 Sent: Saturday, February 09, 2002 7:38 PM
 Subject: [pinhole-discussion] list is fine (?)


  Hi Ricardo,
 
  The list is fine, as far as I know.  Sometimes everyone takes a nap
around
  here.  :)
 
  Maybe you can wake things up?
 
  - Gregg
 
  At 07:14 PM 2/9/02 -0200, you wrote:
  Gregg,
  
  I don't receive new messages for two days, what's very unusual. Could
you
  please tell me if there's something wrong going on and why ? Indeed I
 can't
  live without the list news anymore ! Thanks for your help,
  
  Ricardo.
 
  _
  Pinhole Visions at http://www.???
  Worldwide Pinhole Photograhy Day at http://www.pinholeday.org
 
 
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[pinhole-discussion] ilfochrome speed etc.

2002-02-06 Thread Bill Erickson
The addresses I wrote only take you to the gallery page. the images are in
the 2002 gallery.




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