Re: [RBW] Re: RIV status of 650; and big frames .

2010-08-18 Thread Steve Palincsar
On Tue, 2010-08-17 at 22:51 -0700, Esteban wrote:
 
 If Anthony at Longleaf can pull together reliable deliver of his
 version of the P/R, there should be good, cheap 650B options out
 there. 

Yes, but what, if anything is happening with that effort?  There hasn't
been an update since last year, only questions without answers.  I don't
find Anthony's silence in any way reassuring.



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[RBW] Vitruvian Shoes

2010-08-18 Thread Bruce
I got a pair of these based on a list recommendation and enjoy them for cycling 
as well as walking. I noticed today that they are closing up and offering all 
remaining shoes at $25/pr.

Some might be interested

http://www.vitruvianrunning.com/



  

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[RBW] Re: Want some 700C Hetres or Pari-Motos? Sign up here

2010-08-18 Thread JoelMatthews
At just under 6', I do not think 700 42s would fit as well as that
width does on a 650b frame.

But definitely would be willing to pre-pay for a 700 38 ultra-light.

On Aug 17, 10:13 pm, Earl Grey earlg...@gmail.com wrote:
 Note, I have absolutely no power to make this happen, but if there are
 enough of us who would pre-order such a beast, perhaps someone with
 actual power would make this happen. Please specify if you have a
 preference for a Pari-Moto (38mm, ultra-light) or a Hetre (42mm,
 slightly thicker tread, but still very supple).

 Personally, I'd be happy to prepay $120 for a pair of either of them.

 Cheers,

 Gernot

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[RBW] Re: Vitruvian Shoes

2010-08-18 Thread Mojo
I found that if you supinate, that is your ankles tend to roll outward
as you walk, then Vitruvians are not for you. The inner half of the
heel is more firm, the outer half softer.

On Aug 18, 6:23 am, Bruce fullylug...@yahoo.com wrote:
 I got a pair of these based on a list recommendation and enjoy them for 
 cycling
 as well as walking. I noticed today that they are closing up and offering all
 remaining shoes at $25/pr.

 Some might be interested

 http://www.vitruvianrunning.com/

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[RBW] Re: Want some 700C Hetres or Pari-Motos? Sign up here

2010-08-18 Thread jlvota
I would definately be in for a pair of Hetres.

On Aug 17, 10:13 pm, Earl Grey earlg...@gmail.com wrote:
 Note, I have absolutely no power to make this happen, but if there are
 enough of us who would pre-order such a beast, perhaps someone with
 actual power would make this happen. Please specify if you have a
 preference for a Pari-Moto (38mm, ultra-light) or a Hetre (42mm,
 slightly thicker tread, but still very supple).

 Personally, I'd be happy to prepay $120 for a pair of either of them.

 Cheers,

 Gernot

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[RBW] Re: Want some 700C Hetres or Pari-Motos? Sign up here

2010-08-18 Thread Thomas Lynn Skean

+1 for either, Pari-Moto preferred. But if both were available I'd get
'em as long as the pricing wasn't too out of line with Marathon
Supremes.

Yours,
Thomas Lynn Skean

On Aug 17, 10:13 pm, Earl Grey earlg...@gmail.com wrote:
 Note, I have absolutely no power to make this happen, but if there are
 enough of us who would pre-order such a beast, perhaps someone with
 actual power would make this happen. Please specify if you have a
 preference for a Pari-Moto (38mm, ultra-light) or a Hetre (42mm,
 slightly thicker tread, but still very supple).

 Personally, I'd be happy to prepay $120 for a pair of either of them.

 Cheers,

 Gernot

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[RBW] Re: Western Mass

2010-08-18 Thread Patrick in VT
On Aug 17, 8:14 pm, alford jalfor...@gmail.com wrote:

 I'm moving to Western Mass next month and wanted to know if anyone on
 the list has any tips, insights, whathaveyou to offer to a newbie in
 the area. Especially interested in winter riding and road conditions.
 I know this is a bit OT but I do have a Quickbeam that I hope to
 introduce to the area. Feel free to comment offline if it seems
 appropiate.

it's beautiful, and there's a very strong cycling scene there.  lots
to explore, and you're not far from the Adirondacks, Green Mountains,
and White Mountains when you want to get out of the Berkshires.

depending on where you're coming from, the winter riding and road
conditions might be shocking.  It gets really cold, ice is a real
danger on the road and i've never seen potholes of such magnitude as
those in Mass (and we have some monsters in VT).

there are a number of clubs to reach out to - the folks at New England
Randonneurs (NERds) are very friendly and knowledgeable and could
probably hook you up with some great routes to start exploring.  New
Horizons Bike shop in Westfield, MA also hosts a brevet series - the
owner there, Don Podloski (sp.?), knows his way around the area as
well as anyone.

annual events like D2R2 and the Green River Ride (Westfield brevets)
are very popular, must do rides.

Enjoy!

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[RBW] Re: RIV status of 650; and big frames .

2010-08-18 Thread EricP
And this shows how different folks react to bikes.  I wanted to love
the P/R.  Tried everything possible to get it to work for me.
Unfortunately, there were some issues that were for me
insurmountable.  Have a theory, although it is neither here nor there
at this point. (But will mention it would be interesting to ride that
bike again now that I've lost another 20+ pounds.  If it still handles
the same, then the theory is out the window.)

As for tire choice, the thing I like about 650B is the slightly wider
tires.  Although with 40's on the Hillborne and 50's on my LHT, it's
no longer such an issue.  For wide tires, am pleased with current
choices.

While I would like a tire that would handle like a Hetre, the glass
strewn roads around here would prevent me from actually using it.

Eric Platt
St. Paul, MN


On Aug 18, 12:51 am, Esteban kemm...@gmail.com wrote:
 Eric's old Kogswell really gets me (and the groceries and kids)
 around!  650B city bike, I've found, takes the cake (along with the
 lumps and bumps).

 http://www.flickr.com/photos/25671...@n02/4590765200/

 If Anthony at Longleaf can pull together reliable deliver of his
 version of the P/R, there should be good, cheap 650B options out
 there.  Riv is in the game for good -- just not for the big sizes.

 The Hetres  Pari-Motos have really pushed the discussion of wheel
 size over to discussion of tires.  In my estimation, I think like
 this:

 Harsh = any 23mm race tire
 Fast = (700c) Challenge Parigi-Roubiax; (650B) Pari-Moto; (650B)
 Hetre.  Here, 700c has its own sporty charms, but the volume of the
 650B offerings is an added bonus
 All-rounder = (700c) Jack Brown Greens; (700c) Paselas in 32 or 35;
 (650B0 Col de La Vie or maybe the new Somas.
 Invincible = any Schwalbe tractor tire

 When I ordered my Ebisu randonneuse, I went with 700c. It was a tough
 decision, but I wanted to run skinnier tires for near-excusive road
 riding.  How about everyone just get one of each?

 Esteban
 San Diego, Calif.

 On Aug 17, 8:06 pm, Earl Grey earlg...@gmail.com wrote:



  What a difference 10 months make. Last October I ordered my Sam, and
  being between the 52 and the 56, I ordered the 56, partly because my
  19 year old other bike (Fisher Sphinx monster cross) is decidedly too
  small (17!), and Grant was encouraging me to go big. But I also live
  in Thailand, and while 700C stuff I like is hard to impossible to find
  here (it's either ultra-light racing stuff, or cheap tank-like hybrid
  stuff), I figured that if I did have an emergency, I could find *some*
  700C rim or tire here locally (and I have already had two rims
  destroyed by cars here).

  But at the time, though I would have been interested in 650B, the word
  Hetre did not yet speed up my pulse. I didn't know what it was, or
  how special. I also used to put 28s on my Fisher for road rides, and
  45s for mtn bike rides, and hadn't discovered the immense pleasure of
  mixed-surface rides. Now I have, and for each ride I choose between
  42mm semi knobbies (on the Fisher) and 33mm JBs or 35mm Paselas (on
  the Sam) depending on expected conditions. I'd really like something
  that combines the advantages of both. So I am putting my money where
  my mouth is, and will start a new thread to see how many of us would
  pre-pay for a 700C Pari-Moto or Hetre?

  However, on Monday for our weekly local Rivride, we did one of my
  favorite 50k loops, which involves a lot of pavement, but also at
  least 10k of dirt, some of which is rather steep and technical. I had
  decided before that my 42mm knobbies were better for this ride, and
  had I known we would go this route, I probably would have picked the
  Fisher. But I found that the JBs performed really well. There was one
  steep climb where I momentarily lost traction on the rear wheel, but I
  recovered and made it to the top. I didn't dismount any more often or
  descend more slowly than my companions on fatter tires. Not to say
  that a 700C PariMoto wouldn't have been better, but I found that I do
  enjoy riding a tire that is a bit too skinny for the conditions, as it
  forces me to become fully present in what I am doing, for a zen-like
  cycling experience. :) Here's a 
  photo:http://www.flickr.com/photos/25150...@n08/4903469472/

  Cheers,

  Gernot

  On Aug 18, 7:18 am, EricP ericpl...@aol.com wrote:

   Having been on that ride, I can attest to the bike's beauty.
   Unfortunately, don't have a good photo of it to add.  Yes, a reflector
   would be a nice add on, but the integrated light makes up for that in
   my opinion.

   Part of me wishes for a larger 650B bike again.  (Esteban has the one
   I tried to get to work).  And do have some regrets not buying a 61cm
   Bleriot instead.

   All in all, though am quite content with my other choices.  And
   really, when it comes to being different, my larger frame 26 wheel
   bike is just fine.

  http://www.flickr.com/photos/14126...@n05/4532886734/in/set-721576237...

   Eric 

Re: [RBW] Re: RIV status of 650; and big frames .

2010-08-18 Thread Seth Vidal
On Wed, Aug 18, 2010 at 11:12 AM, EricP ericpl...@aol.com wrote:
 And this shows how different folks react to bikes.  I wanted to love
 the P/R.  Tried everything possible to get it to work for me.
 Unfortunately, there were some issues that were for me
 insurmountable.  Have a theory, although it is neither here nor there
 at this point. (But will mention it would be interesting to ride that
 bike again now that I've lost another 20+ pounds.  If it still handles
 the same, then the theory is out the window.)


I'm with you on the P/R. I wanted to like mine but the quality control
issues were very frustrating to me. Having to limit out the smallest
cog no matter how small it  was b/c the chain rubbed the seat stay was
frustrating. Having to deflate the tire on a fenderless install of
35mm tires in order to get the rear wheel in or out b/c the drop outs
were too long was also just too much irritation.

It rode nicely enough but I didn't like all the misc details that
weren't quite right.

-sv

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[RBW] Re: Friction shifting with Dia Compe bar end “Silver Shifters”

2010-08-18 Thread JLa
Thanks for all the replys.

My bike is quite new and the shifting is fine other than the largest
cogs. If the problem was with derailleur hanger, would it affect all
the gears?

If forgot to say that the cassette is 9 speed (11-34).

Grant Petersen's advice on the Shifting page on rivbike.com sounds
good.

I think I have two different problems. First, it’s really hard for me
to get exact shifts with the biggest cogs with “Silver Shifters” and
secondly I had wrong technique (or no technique at all) on upphills.

I guess I need to go out and practice the shifting with the biggest
cogs and then try Grant Petersen's advice on uphills - to first pedal
hard for a stroke to get up a small bit of speed and the pedal lightly
and shift.

Is there anyone else using the “Silver Shifters” with Shimano 9 speed
11-34. I’m wondering if it’s really so that they don’t work together
well - or is it just about the technique?

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RE: [RBW] Re: Want some 700C Hetres or Pari-Motos? Sign up here

2010-08-18 Thread Allingham II, Thomas J
+1 for either or both 

-Original Message-
From: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com 
[mailto:rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Thomas Lynn Skean
Sent: Wednesday, August 18, 2010 9:51 AM
To: RBW Owners Bunch
Subject: [RBW] Re: Want some 700C Hetres or Pari-Motos? Sign up here


+1 for either, Pari-Moto preferred. But if both were available I'd get
'em as long as the pricing wasn't too out of line with Marathon Supremes.

Yours,
Thomas Lynn Skean

On Aug 17, 10:13 pm, Earl Grey earlg...@gmail.com wrote:
 Note, I have absolutely no power to make this happen, but if there are 
 enough of us who would pre-order such a beast, perhaps someone with 
 actual power would make this happen. Please specify if you have a 
 preference for a Pari-Moto (38mm, ultra-light) or a Hetre (42mm, 
 slightly thicker tread, but still very supple).

 Personally, I'd be happy to prepay $120 for a pair of either of them.

 Cheers,

 Gernot

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Re: [RBW] Re: Friction shifting with Dia Compe bar e nd ³Silver Shifters²

2010-08-18 Thread CycloFiend
on 8/18/10 8:17 AM, JLa at juhani.lait...@gmail.com wrote:
 Is there anyone else using the ³Silver Shifters² with Shimano 9 speed
 11-34. I¹m wondering if it¹s really so that they don¹t work together
 well - or is it just about the technique?

The main challanges with 9 speed gearing and friction shifting are that (1)
you don't have as much margin for error as fewer rear sprockets (8, 7, 6,
5...), and (2) _everything_ about the design of the sprockets is designed to
let the chain shift smoothly and quickly to a different sprocket.  (In the
olden days, you had to pretty significantly over-shift, then trim back -
now, you kind of nudge it into the next gear).

You can definitely use friction shifting with 9 speed setups. You'll learn
the discrete amount you need to shift and it will become second nature.  It
might also help to find what works for your riding style and hand position.
I find that for me, keeping my thumb and forefinger on the bars supplies a
reference - I shift up with my wrist and the little and ring finger and down
with the heel of my palm. Taking your hand completely off the bar to shift
is a little less specific.

-- 
Jim Edgar
cyclofi...@earthlink.net

³Velvet pillows, safari parks, sunglasses: people have become woolly mice.
They still have bodies that can walk for five days and four nights through a
desert of snow, without food, but they accept praise for having taken a
one-hour bicycle ride.²  - Tim Krabbe, The Rider

Cyclofiend Bicycle Photo Galleries - http://www.cyclofiend.com
Current Classics - Cross Bikes
Singlespeed - Working Bikes

Send In Your Photos! - Here's how: http://www.cyclofiend.com/guidelines

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RE: [RBW] WTT/WTS: Paul Racer Brakes for Racer Medium Brakes

2010-08-18 Thread Allingham II, Thomas J
I'll buy them if they're not already gone. 

-Original Message-
From: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com 
[mailto:rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Steve
Sent: Tuesday, August 17, 2010 4:34 PM
To: RBW Owners Bunch
Subject: [RBW] WTT/WTS: Paul Racer Brakes for Racer Medium Brakes

I realize that this is a long shot, but I figured it's worth a shot...

I've got a pair of NIB Paul Racer Brakes in Silver Anodized that I'd like to 
trade for a pair of the shorter reach Racer Medium brakes in any finish.

Alternatively, I'm willing to sell the pair for $149 + shipping.

Thanks,

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Re: [RBW] Re: RIV status of 650; and big frames .

2010-08-18 Thread Steve Palincsar
On Wed, 2010-08-18 at 11:17 -0400, Seth Vidal wrote:
 On Wed, Aug 18, 2010 at 11:12 AM, EricP ericpl...@aol.com wrote:
  And this shows how different folks react to bikes.  I wanted to love
  the P/R.  Tried everything possible to get it to work for me.
  Unfortunately, there were some issues that were for me
  insurmountable.  Have a theory, although it is neither here nor there
  at this point. (But will mention it would be interesting to ride that
  bike again now that I've lost another 20+ pounds.  If it still handles
  the same, then the theory is out the window.)
 
 
 I'm with you on the P/R. I wanted to like mine but the quality control
 issues were very frustrating to me. Having to limit out the smallest
 cog no matter how small it  was b/c the chain rubbed the seat stay was
 frustrating. Having to deflate the tire on a fenderless install of
 35mm tires in order to get the rear wheel in or out b/c the drop outs
 were too long was also just too much irritation.
 
 It rode nicely enough but I didn't like all the misc details that
 weren't quite right.

Having to deflate the tire wasn't a quality control issue, but rather
the consequence of the decision to go with horizontal dropouts, I
believe.  And that, in turn, is traceable to a desire to accommodate
both internal gear and derailleur drive trains.  As for the chain
rubbing the seat stay, no idea about that - it doesn't happen with
either of my 650B P/Rs.



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Re: [RBW] Re: RIV status of 650; and big frames .

2010-08-18 Thread Seth Vidal
On Wed, Aug 18, 2010 at 12:24 PM, Steve Palincsar palin...@his.com wrote:
 Having to deflate the tire wasn't a quality control issue, but rather
 the consequence of the decision to go with horizontal dropouts, I
 believe.

Making the dropouts a tiny amount shorter would have solved that one.

 And that, in turn, is traceable to a desire to accommodate
 both internal gear and derailleur drive trains.


  As for the chain
 rubbing the seat stay, no idea about that - it doesn't happen with
 either of my 650B P/Rs.

happened, iirc, on all of the 700c P/Rs.

-sv

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[RBW] Re: Friction shifting with Dia Compe bar end “Silver Shifters”

2010-08-18 Thread William
I use 8-speed on all the Rivendells.  Silver shifters with an 8speed
SRAM 11-32 cassette.  I use a normal rise rear derailleur, and I can
absolutely shove it from the second-largest to the largest cog under
load silently.  Shifting to a smaller cog is already lightly loaded,
because I'm shifting to a smaller cog for a reason, so that shift is
great, too.  I do sometimes undershift a hair and get some in between
cog chain noise because the ramped modern cogsets want to shift, but
that's just a trim excercise.

Silver shifters are very cool and very smooth, and friction shifting
is so very easy to maintain, but still, I'd advise Shimano index for
anyone who might get frustrated with any of the technique aspects.  My
Bombadil, with 8 speed index on Paul Thumbies is the best shifting
bike I've ever ridden.  Absolutely flawless.

So if you wanted to try any new parts, I'd put a +1 for possibly
trying an 8-speed cogset, and a +1 for possibly trying Shimano barcon
shifters.  Remember they have the friction option if you want to
grouch-out retro-wise.

On Aug 18, 8:17 am, JLa juhani.lait...@gmail.com wrote:
 Thanks for all the replys.

 My bike is quite new and the shifting is fine other than the largest
 cogs. If the problem was with derailleur hanger, would it affect all
 the gears?

 If forgot to say that the cassette is 9 speed (11-34).

 Grant Petersen's advice on the Shifting page on rivbike.com sounds
 good.

 I think I have two different problems. First, it’s really hard for me
 to get exact shifts with the biggest cogs with “Silver Shifters” and
 secondly I had wrong technique (or no technique at all) on upphills.

 I guess I need to go out and practice the shifting with the biggest
 cogs and then try Grant Petersen's advice on uphills - to first pedal
 hard for a stroke to get up a small bit of speed and the pedal lightly
 and shift.

 Is there anyone else using the “Silver Shifters” with Shimano 9 speed
 11-34. I’m wondering if it’s really so that they don’t work together
 well - or is it just about the technique?

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[RBW] Re: Want some 700C Hetres or Pari-Motos? Sign up here

2010-08-18 Thread stevep33
excellent idea.  +1 for either or both.

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Re: [RBW] Re: Friction shifting with Dia Compe bar e nd “Silver Shifters”

2010-08-18 Thread Brian Hanson
I would also recommend going 8 cog on the back.  I found 9 too touchy with
my Silvers.  8's easy.

Brian

On Wed, Aug 18, 2010 at 9:34 AM, William tapebu...@gmail.com wrote:

 I use 8-speed on all the Rivendells.  Silver shifters with an 8speed
 SRAM 11-32 cassette.  I use a normal rise rear derailleur, and I can
 absolutely shove it from the second-largest to the largest cog under
 load silently.  Shifting to a smaller cog is already lightly loaded,
 because I'm shifting to a smaller cog for a reason, so that shift is
 great, too.  I do sometimes undershift a hair and get some in between
 cog chain noise because the ramped modern cogsets want to shift, but
 that's just a trim excercise.

 Silver shifters are very cool and very smooth, and friction shifting
 is so very easy to maintain, but still, I'd advise Shimano index for
 anyone who might get frustrated with any of the technique aspects.  My
 Bombadil, with 8 speed index on Paul Thumbies is the best shifting
 bike I've ever ridden.  Absolutely flawless.

 So if you wanted to try any new parts, I'd put a +1 for possibly
 trying an 8-speed cogset, and a +1 for possibly trying Shimano barcon
 shifters.  Remember they have the friction option if you want to
 grouch-out retro-wise.

 On Aug 18, 8:17 am, JLa juhani.lait...@gmail.com wrote:
  Thanks for all the replys.
 
  My bike is quite new and the shifting is fine other than the largest
  cogs. If the problem was with derailleur hanger, would it affect all
  the gears?
 
  If forgot to say that the cassette is 9 speed (11-34).
 
  Grant Petersen's advice on the Shifting page on rivbike.com sounds
  good.
 
  I think I have two different problems. First, it’s really hard for me
  to get exact shifts with the biggest cogs with “Silver Shifters” and
  secondly I had wrong technique (or no technique at all) on upphills.
 
  I guess I need to go out and practice the shifting with the biggest
  cogs and then try Grant Petersen's advice on uphills - to first pedal
  hard for a stroke to get up a small bit of speed and the pedal lightly
  and shift.
 
  Is there anyone else using the “Silver Shifters” with Shimano 9 speed
  11-34. I’m wondering if it’s really so that they don’t work together
  well - or is it just about the technique?

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Re: [RBW] Re: RIV status of 650; and big frames .

2010-08-18 Thread Steve Palincsar
On Wed, 2010-08-18 at 12:27 -0400, Seth Vidal wrote:
 On Wed, Aug 18, 2010 at 12:24 PM, Steve Palincsar palin...@his.com wrote:
  Having to deflate the tire wasn't a quality control issue, but rather
  the consequence of the decision to go with horizontal dropouts, I
  believe.
 
 Making the dropouts a tiny amount shorter would have solved that one.

Not really.  I had a frame builder remove as much from the dropouts as
he safely could.  I could get Col de la Vies out without deflating...
and then I switched the bike to Pari Motos, and I'm back to having to
deflate the tire to remove and replace the wheel.



 
  And that, in turn, is traceable to a desire to accommodate
  both internal gear and derailleur drive trains.
 
 
   As for the chain
  rubbing the seat stay, no idea about that - it doesn't happen with
  either of my 650B P/Rs.
 
 happened, iirc, on all of the 700c P/Rs.

I think the 700C P/R was an ill-advised hack.  Matthew should have left
well enough alone and Just Said No.



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Re: [RBW] Re: Friction shifting with Dia Compe bar e nd “Silver Shifters”

2010-08-18 Thread Steve Palincsar
On Wed, 2010-08-18 at 09:48 -0700, Brian Hanson wrote:
 I would also recommend going 8 cog on the back.  I found 9 too touchy
 with my Silvers.  8's easy. 
 

I wasn't successful with 8, but found 7 easy.

Actually, I can't see the point of 8.  In the first place, the selection
of available cassettes in 8 has dwindled to the point there isn't one
I'd be interested in, other than the Harris custom cassettes.

7, by contrast, has a much wider selection of available useful
cassettes, including a 14-32 (you'd be amazed how nice the gearing on a
650B bike is with a 39/53 crank and a 14-32) a 13-30 and a 13-34 for
loaded touring.

What's more, with a 135 hub a 7 speed with a spacer behind it lets you
use all 7 sprockets on the big ring without angularity problems.  With
an 8 speed cassette, you'd be limited to the outer 7 and would be unable
to use the largest sprocket with the big ring.  That doesn't sound like
such a big deal, but until you're able to do it you don't appreciate how
handy it can be to avoid having to do a cross-over shift on a short
moderate grade.

And finally, 7 is -- in my experience, anyway -- much easier to
accurately shift with friction.  That's a good thing, because you won't
find any new indexed 7 speed shifters, although there are usually plenty
of used ones, especially downtube shifters, to be had fairly cheap on
ebay.

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Re: [RBW] Re: Friction shifting with Dia Compe bar e nd “Silver Shifters”

2010-08-18 Thread Seth Vidal
On Wed, Aug 18, 2010 at 12:56 PM, Steve Palincsar palin...@his.com wrote:

 I wasn't successful with 8, but found 7 easy.

 Actually, I can't see the point of 8.  In the first place, the selection
 of available cassettes in 8 has dwindled to the point there isn't one
 I'd be interested in, other than the Harris custom cassettes.

 7, by contrast, has a much wider selection of available useful
 cassettes, including a 14-32 (you'd be amazed how nice the gearing on a
 650B bike is with a 39/53 crank and a 14-32) a 13-30 and a 13-34 for
 loaded touring.

 What's more, with a 135 hub a 7 speed with a spacer behind it lets you
 use all 7 sprockets on the big ring without angularity problems.  With
 an 8 speed cassette, you'd be limited to the outer 7 and would be unable
 to use the largest sprocket with the big ring.  That doesn't sound like
 such a big deal, but until you're able to do it you don't appreciate how
 handy it can be to avoid having to do a cross-over shift on a short
 moderate grade.


okay - so this may be my own ignorance and vanity but:

- where are you finding 7speed silver cassettes?

-sv

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Re: [RBW] Re: Friction shifting with Dia Compe bar e nd “Silver Shifters”

2010-08-18 Thread Steve Palincsar
On Wed, 2010-08-18 at 13:00 -0400, Seth Vidal wrote:
 
 okay - so this may be my own ignorance and vanity but:
 
 - where are you finding 7speed silver cassettes?

Depends what you're looking for.  I googled around just now and found a
bunch of 11-whatevers and a 13-34.  When they first discontinued the
HG70 in 13-30 a few months ago I found a source that had stock and
bought a few.  The HG50s (black) are still widely available.





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Re: [RBW] Re: Friction shifting with Dia Compe bar e nd “Silver Shifters”

2010-08-18 Thread Seth Vidal
On Wed, Aug 18, 2010 at 1:13 PM, Steve Palincsar palin...@his.com wrote:
 On Wed, 2010-08-18 at 13:00 -0400, Seth Vidal wrote:

 okay - so this may be my own ignorance and vanity but:

 - where are you finding 7speed silver cassettes?

 Depends what you're looking for.  I googled around just now and found a
 bunch of 11-whatevers and a 13-34.  When they first discontinued the
 HG70 in 13-30 a few months ago I found a source that had stock and
 bought a few.  The HG50s (black) are still widely available.



An 11-28 doesn't do much for me vs what I have in 8sp and 9sp.

I have an hg50 in black and it pains me to admit it but it looks
awful. It's like having 1 black anodized rim and one silver, it just
kinda stands out. Doesn't effect the ride at all, of course, but there
is something to aesthetics. :)

-sv

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Re: [RBW] Re: Friction shifting with Dia Compe bar e nd ³Silver Shifters²

2010-08-18 Thread Bruce
My Ram came stock with Ultegra 9 speed (12 - 27) and bar ends and as JIm notes, 
I just have only to use a light touch to get them to shift. After over 6,000 
miles it's all still working very well. (chain was replaced but the rest is 
original.) 







From: CycloFiend cyclofi...@earthlink.net


You can definitely use friction shifting with 9 speed setups. You'll learn
the discrete amount you need to shift and it will become second nature. 



  

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Re: [RBW] Re: Friction shifting with Dia Compe bar e nd “Silver Shifters”

2010-08-18 Thread Steve Palincsar
On Wed, 2010-08-18 at 13:17 -0400, Seth Vidal wrote:
 
 An 11-28 doesn't do much for me vs what I have in 8sp and 9sp.
 
 I have an hg50 in black and it pains me to admit it but it looks
 awful. It's like having 1 black anodized rim and one silver, it just
 kinda stands out. Doesn't effect the ride at all, of course, but there
 is something to aesthetics. :)
 


So what do you like?  I found 2 sources for 13-34, and I found 13-30 on
ebay in the first 5 pages of google shopping search results.  I don't
pay attention to the other combinations, because I don't use them


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Re: [RBW] Re: Friction shifting with Dia Compe bar e nd “Silver Shifters”

2010-08-18 Thread Seth Vidal
On Wed, Aug 18, 2010 at 1:39 PM, Steve Palincsar palin...@his.com wrote:
 On Wed, 2010-08-18 at 13:17 -0400, Seth Vidal wrote:

 An 11-28 doesn't do much for me vs what I have in 8sp and 9sp.

 I have an hg50 in black and it pains me to admit it but it looks
 awful. It's like having 1 black anodized rim and one silver, it just
 kinda stands out. Doesn't effect the ride at all, of course, but there
 is something to aesthetics. :)



 So what do you like?  I found 2 sources for 13-34, and I found 13-30 on
 ebay in the first 5 pages of google shopping search results.  I don't
 pay attention to the other combinations, because I don't use them


13-30 works for me. 13-34 is also fine. I was thinking of things less
fly-by-night than ebay but you're right - I could fetch them up from
there.

thanks
-sv

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[RBW] For eBay: B'stone / BOB material, plus update on my For Sale List

2010-08-18 Thread XO-1.org Rough Riders
Hello fellow Rivendell riders:

Thanks for your enthusiasm for helping me clean out my garage!

What's left for sale (but will go eBay by tomorrow if I don't sell it
here first) includes black and gray Brooks B17 Champion Special
saddles with titanium rails, Sidi Cycle Titanium shoes in 44,
Rivendell Hupe, and Rivendell wool dots gloves. Photos and prices
here:

http://www.adventurecorps.com/forsale/index.html

Otherwise, you may be interested in several new auctions which I just
started on eBay. Here are all my auctions (seller name is
AdventureGumby):

http://shop.ebay.com/adventuregumby/m.html?_nkw=_armrs=1_from=_ipg=_trksid=p3686

Items now also for sale include:

Bridgestone Owners Bunch (BOB) postcards: set of 8
Bridgestone Owners Bunch (BOB) coin purses: set of 4
Bridgestone Owners Bunch (BOB) Gazettes #5, 6 and 7
Bridgestone Cycle USA Endangered Species Calendar from 1994
The Data Book photocopy from BOB

Plus my aforementioned complete Rivendell printed materials collection
(from day one to the present), 18 issues of Bicycle Quarterly, and 13
issues of Rouleur.

Thanks again for helping me out. I'm enjoying this mutual back-
scratching fest and I love the new, open space in my garage!

BTW, if there any iBOBs on this list, would you mind letting that
list know, too, about my auctions? Thanks!

I won't post any further auction/sale messages here until I have new
items for sale. Stay tuned, though, as I have a hefty selection of
Campy SR and NR, Suntour Superbe Pro, Dura-Ace AX, and much, much more
to unload!

- Chris Kostman
La Jolla, CA
http://www.adventurecorps.com
http://www.XO-1.org

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[RBW] Re: RIV status of 650; and big frames .

2010-08-18 Thread Esteban
But the Kogswell 700c contribution (note that I did not spell that
with a k) was ultimately for a 3-page report in BQ that provided
some logic for this here discussion.

I don't have it here with me, but I think it went  something like
this:  700c is optimal for tires up to 32/33.3...650B is best for
tires 35-42...26 is fatter tires.

Now, if you read enough of Jan's reviews, you'll know he's writing
about efficiency, speed, comfort + performance -- all the good
properties of a pure rando bike and rider.

If you know enough about Riv, you'll have to agree that the philosophy
is go with what works and enjoy it. If fat tires fit, then have fun
with them.  Albatross bars, mountain gearing...touring, camping,
rambling, ambling.  Its really a fantastic style of riding and
approach to equipment.  That's why, methinks, there is no 650B in big
sizes.

I've spent a lot of time in 35mm Paselas on a Romulus (now my
brother's bike) and ridden the 50mm Big Apples on a Hunquapillar - and
both were a blast on and off road.  When I'm getting ready for a 300K,
I'd probably go with something different in terms of tires, but that
doesn't mean you couldn't ride what-you-got for such a distance.

Esteban
San Diego, Calif.

On Aug 18, 9:50 am, Steve Palincsar palin...@his.com wrote:
 On Wed, 2010-08-18 at 12:27 -0400, Seth Vidal wrote:
  On Wed, Aug 18, 2010 at 12:24 PM, Steve Palincsar palin...@his.com wrote:
   Having to deflate the tire wasn't a quality control issue, but rather
   the consequence of the decision to go with horizontal dropouts, I
   believe.

  Making the dropouts a tiny amount shorter would have solved that one.

 Not really.  I had a frame builder remove as much from the dropouts as
 he safely could.  I could get Col de la Vies out without deflating...
 and then I switched the bike to Pari Motos, and I'm back to having to
 deflate the tire to remove and replace the wheel.



   And that, in turn, is traceable to a desire to accommodate
   both internal gear and derailleur drive trains.

    As for the chain
   rubbing the seat stay, no idea about that - it doesn't happen with
   either of my 650B P/Rs.

  happened, iirc, on all of the 700c P/Rs.

 I think the 700C P/R was an ill-advised hack.  Matthew should have left
 well enough alone and Just Said No.

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[RBW] Re: Riv's Retreat from 650B in Larger Sizes, Optimum Tire Pressures/Sizes

2010-08-18 Thread bfd


On Aug 16, 1:46 pm, Steve Palincsar palin...@his.com wrote:
 On Mon, 2010-08-16 at 13:04 -0700, bfd wrote:
  I don't get it what's with all the randonneur worshipping? I know
  people here consider racing to be a bad word as it represents all
  that is supposedly wrong with bicycling. Yet, randonneur is consider
  good?!

 Yes.  There's very little resemblance between racing and the riding most
 of us do, and almost no correspondence between the values of racing and
 ours.  

 Racing, remember, is a sport where there is one winner and everyone else
 is a loser, and a sport where it seems to be well known that the top
 performers -- elite athletes who have no resemblance to us at all -- all
 cheat.  Randonneuring is done by people just like us, sometimes in fact
 us.  It's riding like we do, taken out to the limits.  It rewards self
 reliance, and everybody's a winner.


 So, which of those two extremes is more worthy of respect?



  What I don't understand is both racing and randonneuring require
  massive amount of time, commitment and training.  You can't do either
  well without putting in the time.

 Yes, but if you put in the time, it's possible for an ordinary rider
 like me (as opposed to naturally gifted athletes) to do it.  In fact,
 I've done it.  I'll do it again.  But on club rides, I ride with the
 CCs.  Faster than the CCs are the Bs, the BBs, and the As.  And this
 isn't a racing club; most of the A riders aren't fast enough or trained
 enough to race, even at the lowest levels.

 Put it another way: anybody here who can do a 100 mile ride could do a
 200K brevet, if they were interested.

Thanks Steve. I think the issue is more of what use and what people
consider comfortable.  Unlike you or many others here, my friends
and I don't do long distance riding. Due to various time constraints,
i.e., family, work, other obligations, we only do short rides of
40-70 miles, and then only on weekends or holidays (if we can get
out.  So, doing a 200K brevet or longer is out.

 But in the context of this discussion, you're confusing the sport with
 the equipment.  When we're discussing bikes, we're discussing the
 equipment.  

 Why the interest in this type of bicycle?  For one thing, bikes of this
 type make it much more comfortable and much easier to do the sort of
 rides we do.  

 A bike that's designed to be comfortable and easily controllable when
 you're very tired is a very pleasant bike to ride on a century.  

I guess that comes down to how you define comfortable.  For many,
like my friends and I, a racing-style bike is all we need. Since we
only do rides under 100 miles, actually closer to 40-60 miles, racing-
style bikes with 700x23/25 sized tires is all we need. I ride 700x25
pumped up to about 80-90psi and find them really comfortable. I do
ride a carbon bike, but we all know frameset material is never a
factor in making a bike comfortable. ;)

 A bike that's designed to be ridden in severe weather is a pleasure to
 ride in the rain.  

We live in the SF Bay Area, so rain is not a big deal. Of course,
people like me who commute, have fenders, but for most rides it is not
needed. We don't need racks and bags as our rides are short enough
that we either carry a few powerbars (yuch!) or can stop somewhere to
get food and drinks.

 A bike that's designed to be able to carry enough to sustain a rider on
 a brevet is equally capable of carrying everything I need to carry on a
 winter's day, when it might be 28 degrees at ride start time but it
 might get up to 45-50 before we're done.

Again, we don't do brevets or the distance you do, so carrying
enough to sustain a rider is not an issue.

 What is there to not like about all that?

Agree. Nothing. I like all kind of bikes, so rando style works as well
as commuters, racers, cross, touring or any other bike. (OK, I don't
really care for those flying pigeon chinese bikes...

 And for another, these bikes actually look like a bicycle.  Unlike just
 about everything you find in a LBS today.  

You haven't been to my LBS where there are all kind of bikes and
styles - from the latest Euro carbon to classic steel framesets from
builders like Ron Cooper:

http://www.classicrendezvous.com/Bike_Shops/A-Bicycle-Odyssey.htm

In fact, Tony's shop iwas the US importer of Ron Cooper framesets, at
least until Ron retires!


  Further, it also appears to require bikes that can be costly.

 There are quite a few Kogswell P/Rs - configured with drop bars, the R
 in the name means Randonneur - that have been ridden on brevets.  Even
 fully tricked out with a top of the line lighting system and the best
 handmade wheels money can buy, a P/R cost less to outfit than the
 cheapest Madone.  So too will a hand-made custom from most of the
 builders you see over at the VSalon.  

Agree, Kogwell was a nice frameset. Are they still in business? I
haven't heard too much about them recently.

  *True*
  racing bikes can cost in excess of $5K to 10K or more, i.e., 

[RBW] Re: WTT/WTS: Paul Racer Brakes for Racer Medium Brakes

2010-08-18 Thread Andrew
Sold!

On Aug 18, 9:22 am, Allingham II, Thomas J
thomas.alling...@skadden.com wrote:
 I'll buy them if they're not already gone.



 -Original Message-
 From: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com 
 [mailto:rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Steve
 Sent: Tuesday, August 17, 2010 4:34 PM
 To: RBW Owners Bunch
 Subject: [RBW] WTT/WTS: Paul Racer Brakes for Racer Medium Brakes

 I realize that this is a long shot, but I figured it's worth a shot...

 I've got a pair of NIB Paul Racer Brakes in Silver Anodized that I'd like to 
 trade for a pair of the shorter reach Racer Medium brakes in any finish.

 Alternatively, I'm willing to sell the pair for $149 + shipping.

 Thanks,

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Re: [RBW] Re: Riv's Retreat from 650B in Larger Sizes, Optimum Tire Pressures/Sizes

2010-08-18 Thread Steve Palincsar
On Wed, 2010-08-18 at 10:55 -0700, bfd wrote:
 
 On Aug 16, 1:46 pm, Steve Palincsar palin...@his.com wrote:
  On Mon, 2010-08-16 at 13:04 -0700, bfd wrote:
   I don't get it what's with all the randonneur worshipping? I know
   people here consider racing to be a bad word as it represents all
   that is supposedly wrong with bicycling. Yet, randonneur is consider
   good?!
 
  Yes.  There's very little resemblance between racing and the riding most
  of us do, and almost no correspondence between the values of racing and
  ours.  
 
  Racing, remember, is a sport where there is one winner and everyone else
  is a loser, and a sport where it seems to be well known that the top
  performers -- elite athletes who have no resemblance to us at all -- all
  cheat.  Randonneuring is done by people just like us, sometimes in fact
  us.  It's riding like we do, taken out to the limits.  It rewards self
  reliance, and everybody's a winner.
 
 
  So, which of those two extremes is more worthy of respect?
 
 
 
   What I don't understand is both racing and randonneuring require
   massive amount of time, commitment and training.  You can't do either
   well without putting in the time.
 
  Yes, but if you put in the time, it's possible for an ordinary rider
  like me (as opposed to naturally gifted athletes) to do it.  In fact,
  I've done it.  I'll do it again.  But on club rides, I ride with the
  CCs.  Faster than the CCs are the Bs, the BBs, and the As.  And this
  isn't a racing club; most of the A riders aren't fast enough or trained
  enough to race, even at the lowest levels.
 
  Put it another way: anybody here who can do a 100 mile ride could do a
  200K brevet, if they were interested.
 

 Thanks Steve. I think the issue is more of what use and what people
 consider comfortable.  Unlike you or many others here, my friends
 and I don't do long distance riding. Due to various time constraints,
 i.e., family, work, other obligations, we only do short rides of
 40-70 miles, and then only on weekends or holidays (if we can get
 out.  So, doing a 200K brevet or longer is out.

If you regularly do 60-70 mile rides, a September century is probably a
nice stretch ride but not an insurmountable obstacle.  I'm not saying
you should or you must, but many club cyclists enjoy doing September
centuries and find them the highlight of the cycling year.

And if you've done 4 or 5 centuries in September, as many of us will do,
an additional 25%, bring the ride up to 200K is not out of the question.
It does bring some additional features or complications, which may be
attractions or detractions, depending on your state of mind, such as a
few hours of riding at night -- which, believe it or not, many of us
have found enjoyable -- and the whole structure around controles and
brevet cards.

Note, I'm absolutely NOT saying you must or you should do so.  All I am
saying is, many club cyclists who enjoy doing September centuries may
find the additional distance and different structure of a brevet
interesting -- especially as an answer to the question now that I've
done centuries, what's next?


  A bike that's designed to be comfortable and easily controllable when
  you're very tired is a very pleasant bike to ride on a century.  
 

 I guess that comes down to how you define comfortable.  For many,
 like my friends and I, a racing-style bike is all we need. Since we
 only do rides under 100 miles, actually closer to 40-60 miles, racing-
 style bikes with 700x23/25 sized tires is all we need. I ride 700x25
 pumped up to about 80-90psi and find them really comfortable. I do
 ride a carbon bike, but we all know frameset material is never a
 factor in making a bike comfortable. ;)

Do you stop riding in November?  I find some of the most sublime riding
I do all year happens in the winter, especially very shortly after it
snows.  Around here, snow seldom lingers very long (last year's
blizzards were a strong exception) so 2 days after a snow you'll find a
sunny, bright day with temperatures in the low 40s, golden sun sparking
on the white snow, and you feel as though you're riding through a
Currier and Ives lithograph or a New England picture postcard.

Trouble is, those 40 degree temps are causing that crisp white snow to
melt and rivulets of snow melt run across the road everywhere.  To ride
down such a road without fenders invites a brown stripe up the back,
specks of dirt on your glasses, and a filthy bike.

No bfd, right?  Just put fenders on the bike.  Hell, racing bikes used
to have plenty of clearance for fenders, and eyelets, too.  But not any
more.  Now, with some carbon racing frames there isn't even clearance
for a 25mm tire, never mind for full coverage fenders.  So what do you
do, give up riding when the roads - oh my god - are WET?  

As for the rest, comfort isn't a huge issue if all you ride are 40-60
miles.  Back when I was having problems, they didn't happen until I'd
crossed the 75 mile barrier.  Then, I'd 

Re: [RBW] Re: RIV status of 650; and big frames .

2010-08-18 Thread Steve Palincsar
On Wed, 2010-08-18 at 10:54 -0700, Esteban wrote:
 But the Kogswell 700c contribution (note that I did not spell that
 with a k) was ultimately for a 3-page report in BQ that provided
 some logic for this here discussion.

Yes, I do have to give you that.



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[RBW] Re: WTT/WTS: Paul Racer Brakes for Racer Medium Brakes

2010-08-18 Thread Steve
Thanks for the interest.  Brakes have been sold.

On Aug 18, 11:22 am, Allingham II, Thomas J
thomas.alling...@skadden.com wrote:
 I'll buy them if they're not already gone.

 -Original Message-
 From: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com 
 [mailto:rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Steve
 Sent: Tuesday, August 17, 2010 4:34 PM
 To: RBW Owners Bunch
 Subject: [RBW] WTT/WTS: Paul Racer Brakes for Racer Medium Brakes

 I realize that this is a long shot, but I figured it's worth a shot...

 I've got a pair of NIB Paul Racer Brakes in Silver Anodized that I'd like to 
 trade for a pair of the shorter reach Racer Medium brakes in any finish.

 Alternatively, I'm willing to sell the pair for $149 + shipping.

 Thanks,

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 To ensure compliance with Treasury Department regulations, we advise you 
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 in this message was not intended or written to be used, and cannot be used, 
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[RBW] You Say It'

2010-08-18 Thread John Bennett
http://www.rivbike.com/blogs/news_post/270

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[RBW] Re: Friction shifting with Dia Compe bar end “Silver Shifters”

2010-08-18 Thread rob markwardt
I ride a 9 speed/11-32 and an 8 speed12/30 with barend Silvers.  Both
work flawlessly.  Disclaimer...I live on a big hill, and most of my
riding includes big hills. I get a lot of practice.  Also, I've been
using friction shifting pretty much my whole life so it seems second
nature.  Not sure I could describe my method but I do recommend
letting up a little when shifting under load. Small shifts are fine
going up steep hills (1-2 cogs) but don't expect to jump from the
little rings to the biggies (3 or more cogs) without some clanking. If
I get caught on a really steep hill without getting in the proper gear
(does happen occassionally) I'll do a little circle or stop and lift
the rear wheel shifting into the big cogs rather than try force it.



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[RBW] Re: Riv's Retreat from 650B in Larger Sizes, Optimum Tire Pressures/Sizes

2010-08-18 Thread bfd


On Aug 18, 12:01 pm, JoelMatthews joelmatth...@mac.com wrote:
  I guess that comes down to how you define comfortable.  For many,
  like my friends and I, a racing-style bike is all we need. Since we
  only do rides under 100 miles, actually closer to 40-60 miles, racing-
  style bikes with 700x23/25 sized tires is all we need. I ride 700x25
  pumped up to about 80-90psi and find them really comfortable. I do
  ride a carbon bike, but we all know frameset material is never a
  factor in making a bike comfortable. ;)

 Unless you and your friends actually race, why do you need a race
 style bike at all?  If your primary reason to have a bike is to get
 around with the occasional short fun ride, general use wide tire
 comfort bike seems a whole lot more appropriate than a bike designed
 for the sole purpose of getting from point a to point b as fast as
 possible.  Although I do acknowledge that many in your state appear to
 view BMW 3-series as shopping carts,

Good question. Around here there are alot of hills. The belief that
a lighter bike will climb better is paramount. Further, many riders,
my friends included (but not necessarily me), make very good money, so
buying what the *pros* use is also important because if they can climb
fast using those types of bikes, so can weFinally, there's also a
preception that fat tires, i.e., anything wider than say 32mm is going
to slow you down. This may not necessarily be the case, but most
people are going to watch Lance, Alberto and Andy and say they ride
fast uphill on skinny tire racing bikes, so can we! Let's not consider
things like fitness, fit (bike) and training. Racers or racing-style
bikes go up hill fast, that's what I got to get!!!

Reality, wide tire comfort bikes are not in, so it is going to be a
hard sell. You can see this with 650b. Many here swear by it and won't
ride anything else. Yet, the general public, my friends included,
would just laugh and consider those bikes for those old, slow, fat
guys. Of course, many also need to look in the mirror.

As for BMWs, hey, I got one (older 1990 535i, 5spd, 125k miles) and
yes, they are as common as shopping carts. It is sort of like seeing a
Ferrari, Lamborgini or Tesla in the Beverly Hills/Hollywood
areaGood Luck!

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Re: [RBW] Re: Riv's Retreat from 650B in Larger Sizes, Optimum Tire Pressures/Sizes

2010-08-18 Thread Steve Palincsar
On Wed, 2010-08-18 at 12:47 -0700, bfd wrote:
 
 On Aug 18, 12:01 pm, JoelMatthews joelmatth...@mac.com wrote:

  Unless you and your friends actually race, why do you need a race
  style bike at all?  If your primary reason to have a bike is to get
  around with the occasional short fun ride, general use wide tire
  comfort bike seems a whole lot more appropriate than a bike designed
  for the sole purpose of getting from point a to point b as fast as
  possible.  Although I do acknowledge that many in your state appear to
  view BMW 3-series as shopping carts,
 
 Good question. Around here there are alot of hills. The belief that
 a lighter bike will climb better is paramount. Further, many riders,
 my friends included (but not necessarily me), make very good money, so
 buying what the *pros* use is also important because if they can climb
 fast using those types of bikes, so can we

Even though they weigh a lot less and produce a lot more power?  

 Finally, there's also a
 preception that fat tires, i.e., anything wider than say 32mm is going
 to slow you down. This may not necessarily be the case, but most
 people are going to watch Lance, Alberto and Andy and say they ride
 fast uphill on skinny tire racing bikes, so can we! Let's not consider
 things like fitness, fit (bike) and training. Racers or racing-style
 bikes go up hill fast, that's what I got to get!!!

Chicks look good in bras.  You should get one, too!

 
 Reality, wide tire comfort bikes are not in, so it is going to be a
 hard sell. You can see this with 650b. Many here swear by it and won't
 ride anything else. Yet, the general public, my friends included,
 would just laugh and consider those bikes for those old, slow, fat
 guys. Of course, many also need to look in the mirror.

I'd say your friends are uninformed and immature, and to be honest, I'm
not even slightly interested in attempting to educate them or to change
their minds.



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[RBW] Re: Riv's Retreat from 650B in Larger Sizes, Optimum Tire Pressures/Sizes

2010-08-18 Thread Patrick in VT
On Aug 18, 3:01 pm, JoelMatthews joelmatth...@mac.com wrote:

 Unless you and your friends actually race, why do you need a race
 style bike at all?

just like it's fun to go bombing around on a country bike, some folks
find it fun to go fast on a road bike whether they race or not.  light
bikes are fun to ride, and if people are having fun - why not have a
race style bike?  for the some, the occasional short fun ride is 50
miles at 20+mph - a road bike seems like a good choice there.




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Re: [RBW] Re: Riv's Retreat from 650B in Larger Sizes, Optimum Tire Pressures/Sizes

2010-08-18 Thread Steve Palincsar
On Wed, 2010-08-18 at 12:59 -0700, Patrick in VT wrote:
 On Aug 18, 3:01 pm, JoelMatthews joelmatth...@mac.com wrote:
 
  Unless you and your friends actually race, why do you need a race
  style bike at all?
 
 just like it's fun to go bombing around on a country bike, some folks
 find it fun to go fast on a road bike whether they race or not.  light
 bikes are fun to ride, and if people are having fun - why not have a
 race style bike?  for the some, the occasional short fun ride is 50
 miles at 20+mph - a road bike seems like a good choice there.

To me, the real question is, other than styling and the whole fantasy
wannabee pro racer let's play pretend, what real advantage does
something like a Madone give you for precisely that kind of riding over
a racing bike that Eddy Merckx might have ridden?





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[RBW] Re: Riv's Retreat from 650B in Larger Sizes, Optimum Tire Pressures/Sizes

2010-08-18 Thread JoelMatthews
 just like it's fun to go bombing around on a country bike, some folks
 find it fun to go fast on a road bike whether they race or not.  light
 bikes are fun to ride, and if people are having fun - why not have a
 race style bike?  for the some, the occasional short fun ride is 50
 miles at 20+mph - a road bike seems like a good choice there.

I am not aganst them, and indeed Tom Kellogg of Specturm Bikes is in
the process of making me a 30th Anniversary racer.  If you only have
one bike, however, a Hilsen or a well thought out Rando would probably
serve you better.  That is, if you ride as much and for as many
different reasons I am guessing BFD (and you, Steve and most everyone
else posting here).

Granted, San Francisco has some unique terrain and plenty of mass
transit and walking options.

On Aug 18, 2:59 pm, Patrick in VT swing4...@gmail.com wrote:
 On Aug 18, 3:01 pm, JoelMatthews joelmatth...@mac.com wrote:

  Unless you and your friends actually race, why do you need a race
  style bike at all?

 just like it's fun to go bombing around on a country bike, some folks
 find it fun to go fast on a road bike whether they race or not.  light
 bikes are fun to ride, and if people are having fun - why not have a
 race style bike?  for the some, the occasional short fun ride is 50
 miles at 20+mph - a road bike seems like a good choice there.

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[RBW] Re: Riv's Retreat from 650B in Larger Sizes, Optimum Tire Pressures/Sizes

2010-08-18 Thread bfd


On Aug 18, 1:10 pm, Steve Palincsar palin...@his.com wrote:
 On Wed, 2010-08-18 at 12:59 -0700, Patrick in VT wrote:
  On Aug 18, 3:01 pm, JoelMatthews joelmatth...@mac.com wrote:

   Unless you and your friends actually race, why do you need a race
   style bike at all?

  just like it's fun to go bombing around on a country bike, some folks
  find it fun to go fast on a road bike whether they race or not.  light
  bikes are fun to ride, and if people are having fun - why not have a
  race style bike?  for the some, the occasional short fun ride is 50
  miles at 20+mph - a road bike seems like a good choice there.

 To me, the real question is, other than styling and the whole fantasy
 wannabee pro racer let's play pretend, what real advantage does
 something like a Madone give you for precisely that kind of riding over
 a racing bike that Eddy Merckx might have ridden?

Well, if you look at today's Eddy Merckx bikes, probably not much.
Compared to the bikes he used when he raced, quite a bit of
difference. For example, Madone are carbon, use integrated shifters
and clipless pedals. The bikes definitely weigh a lot less too.
Assuming Eddy used a bike that weighed 18-20lbs, today's bikes are
limited to something like 6.8kg or about 14.9lbs. That 3 to 5 lb
difference is pretty big. It may mean more to a racer than an average
overweight weekend warrior.

But, as Patrick stated if it gets someone out on a bike than what's
not to like?! The bad thing is that because racing style bikes are so
prevalent, they dominate the market and make it harder for good,
reliable equipment to be available at a reasonable price. The big
example of that is Mavic removing its MA2 rim from the market.
Arguably one of the best clincher rims ever made.

Similarly, back in 2008, when  I was building up my steel cross/
commuter bike, Paul Taylor breakaway, I wanted silver parts to match
my black with gold paneled frameset. It may sound funny, but silver
parts were not that easy to find! On my own, I was able to find most
parts used or NOS and my LBS luckily sold Nitto bars and threadless
stem. Of course, this was before VO started carrying more silver
parts. Still, it was harder than sourcing black components which seem
to be abundant in all price ranges. Good Luck!

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Re: [RBW] Re: Want some 700C Hetres or Pari-Motos? Sign up here

2010-08-18 Thread Stonehog
Definitely sign me up. 

Brian


On Aug 18, 2010, at 9:34 AM, stevep33 steve...@gmail.com wrote:

 excellent idea.  +1 for either or both.
 
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Re: [RBW] Re: Want some 700C Hetres or Pari-Motos? Sign up here

2010-08-18 Thread Clayton Scott
I'd at least take one set of either and possibly both.

On Wed, Aug 18, 2010 at 1:50 PM, Stonehog stone...@gmail.com wrote:

 Definitely sign me up.

 Brian


 On Aug 18, 2010, at 9:34 AM, stevep33 steve...@gmail.com wrote:

  excellent idea.  +1 for either or both.
 
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Re: [RBW] Re: Riv's Retreat from 650B in Larger Sizes, Optimum Tire Pressures/Sizes

2010-08-18 Thread Steve Palincsar
On Wed, 2010-08-18 at 13:47 -0700, bfd wrote:
 
   just like it's fun to go bombing around on a country bike, some folks
   find it fun to go fast on a road bike whether they race or not.  light
   bikes are fun to ride, and if people are having fun - why not have a
   race style bike?  for the some, the occasional short fun ride is 50
   miles at 20+mph - a road bike seems like a good choice there.
 
  To me, the real question is, other than styling and the whole fantasy
  wannabee pro racer let's play pretend, what real advantage does
  something like a Madone give you for precisely that kind of riding over
  a racing bike that Eddy Merckx might have ridden?
 
 Well, if you look at today's Eddy Merckx bikes, probably not much.

No, I'm not talking about the Merckx brand, I'm talking about bikes he
might have actually raced on back in the 1970s.


 Compared to the bikes he used when he raced, quite a bit of
 difference. For example, Madone are carbon, use integrated shifters
 and clipless pedals. The bikes definitely weigh a lot less too.

And I'm not talking about what are the differences between today's race
bikes and those of the early 1970s.

The question is, what REAL ADVANTAGE does a bike like a Madone give you,
the rider, over a racing bike of the 1970s?  Differences in frame
materials do not constitute an advantage in and of themselves. 


 Assuming Eddy used a bike that weighed 18-20lbs, today's bikes are
 limited to something like 6.8kg or about 14.9lbs. That 3 to 5 lb
 difference is pretty big. It may mean more to a racer than an average
 overweight weekend warrior.

OK, let's say a five pounds lighter bike for a rider who might well be
10 KG overweight or more.  How much of an actual advantage is that?
What does it translate to in terms of performance, as opposed to
bragging rights?  If you and your pals ride primarily for fun and
fitness, do those missing 3-5 pounds enhance your enjoyment?  (It's
certainly hard to see how they enhance your fitness -- that would be
improved by adding weight, not subtracting it.)  Will you go faster?  If
so, how much faster?  And how much difference would that make?


 But, as Patrick stated if it gets someone out on a bike than what's
 not to like?! The bad thing is that because racing style bikes are so
 prevalent, they dominate the market and make it harder for good,
 reliable equipment to be available at a reasonable price. 

So you're saying racing equipment is less expensive?  Balderdash.  

Let's just pick on wheels, shall we?  Two thousand for a set of low
spoke count racing wheels, and if you break a spoke you're done, the
wheel isn't turning in the rear triangle.  Compare that with a handmade
wheel like what Rich at Riv builds, or what Peter White builds - let's
say, Dura Ace hubs and Open Pro rims, 32 or 36 spokes.  Dead reliable
wheels that would still turn if you did break a spoke.

Racing brakes, perhaps?  $875 or more for a set of brakes?  Yeah, you
shave a few grams.  What's a set of Shimano brakes go for?  Or Tektros?

Or maybe let's talk cranks.  A thousand bucks for a crankset that maybe
(or maybe not) includes the bottom bracket bearings.  How's that compare
with the Sugino Alpina, for example?

I was at a rest stop at our club century 2 years ago and I overheard a
guy behind me talking about the upgrade he'd just made to his bike:
carbon handlebars and a carbon stem.  It cost him a thousand bucks, but
man, look at how many grams he saved!  A thousand bucks for a handlebar
and a stem?  As they say in Dublin, Jesus wept.





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[RBW] Re: Riv's Retreat from 650B in Larger Sizes, Optimum Tire Pressures/Sizes

2010-08-18 Thread William
Life under the big tent of CYCLING.  There's still plenty of room for
all of us.

I hope we don't revert down to the reverse snobbery of dismissing
things just because they are expensive.  It's possible to find a
sandwich that costs $20, a cocktail that costs $35, socks that cost
$80, a wallet that costs $750, a jacket that costs $900, shoes that
cost $1500, a bike that costs $18k, a car that costs $300k, a house
that costs $20M.  Who cares?  If I choose to buy an $80 pair of socks
and you get in a big wad over the waste of it, that's all on you.

For every Riv owner who thinks it's stupid to buy a $1000 crankset,
there are 1000 'normal' people who think it's stupid to buy a $1000
bicycle.  The fact is that 95% of the rides that 95% of riders do are
under 50 miles, and almost anybody could do a 50 mile ride on almost
any bike.  I did a 50 mile ride on my BMX bike when I was 9.  Over the
years, I did the same 50 mile ride on a $200 Univega, a $800
Cannondale, and a $1400 Schwinn Paramount.  I got tired each time.  It
has almost nothing to do with what equipment you NEED.  It has almost
everything to do with the equipment you WANT.  If that dude wants a
$10k carbo-rocket and you want a $2800 Atlantis, you are both
overspending your real needs, and indulging your wants.  Many would
say you are both conspicuously indulging.  I say God bless you both.

Now sure there's a lot not to like about people who buy exactly what
their buddies buy and dress just like their buddies and then as a
group mock an individual riding in Samba's and Grip Kings.  But what
if it was a bunch of us in Samba's and Grip Kings making fun of a 50-
something 25lb overweight guy riding a Madone in a Team Kit?  Wouldn't
we be just as conformist and just as clique-ish and lame?  I'm sure a
lot of us here on the site genuinely feel bad for people who want to
ride, and buy the only thing available to them at their LBS, a pseudo-
racing bike, and then live with the discomfort, displeasure and
downright pain of not having a more all-rounderish bike.  They are
suffering unnecessarily, we think, and we may be right.  But going
right to the punchline that those people are dumb or immature or
conformists or something else that is bad is going a little too far, a
little too fast.


On Aug 18, 2:23 pm, Steve Palincsar palin...@his.com wrote:
 On Wed, 2010-08-18 at 13:47 -0700, bfd wrote:

just like it's fun to go bombing around on a country bike, some folks
find it fun to go fast on a road bike whether they race or not.  light
bikes are fun to ride, and if people are having fun - why not have a
race style bike?  for the some, the occasional short fun ride is 50
miles at 20+mph - a road bike seems like a good choice there.

   To me, the real question is, other than styling and the whole fantasy
   wannabee pro racer let's play pretend, what real advantage does
   something like a Madone give you for precisely that kind of riding over
   a racing bike that Eddy Merckx might have ridden?

  Well, if you look at today's Eddy Merckx bikes, probably not much.

 No, I'm not talking about the Merckx brand, I'm talking about bikes he
 might have actually raced on back in the 1970s.

  Compared to the bikes he used when he raced, quite a bit of
  difference. For example, Madone are carbon, use integrated shifters
  and clipless pedals. The bikes definitely weigh a lot less too.

 And I'm not talking about what are the differences between today's race
 bikes and those of the early 1970s.

 The question is, what REAL ADVANTAGE does a bike like a Madone give you,
 the rider, over a racing bike of the 1970s?  Differences in frame
 materials do not constitute an advantage in and of themselves.

  Assuming Eddy used a bike that weighed 18-20lbs, today's bikes are
  limited to something like 6.8kg or about 14.9lbs. That 3 to 5 lb
  difference is pretty big. It may mean more to a racer than an average
  overweight weekend warrior.

 OK, let's say a five pounds lighter bike for a rider who might well be
 10 KG overweight or more.  How much of an actual advantage is that?
 What does it translate to in terms of performance, as opposed to
 bragging rights?  If you and your pals ride primarily for fun and
 fitness, do those missing 3-5 pounds enhance your enjoyment?  (It's
 certainly hard to see how they enhance your fitness -- that would be
 improved by adding weight, not subtracting it.)  Will you go faster?  If
 so, how much faster?  And how much difference would that make?

  But, as Patrick stated if it gets someone out on a bike than what's
  not to like?! The bad thing is that because racing style bikes are so
  prevalent, they dominate the market and make it harder for good,
  reliable equipment to be available at a reasonable price.

 So you're saying racing equipment is less expensive?  Balderdash.  

 Let's just pick on wheels, shall we?  Two thousand for a set of low
 spoke count racing wheels, and if you break a spoke you're done, the
 

[RBW] Re: Want some 700C Hetres or Pari-Motos? Sign up here

2010-08-18 Thread Frankwurst
Yup. I'm in for a pair of both.

On Aug 18, 12:24 am, XO-1.org Rough Riders
adventureco...@gmail.com wrote:
 Two of each!

 - Chris Kostman

 On Aug 17, 9:38 pm, rperks perks@gmail.com wrote:



  I would be in for a set of both, the catch is being the one to make it
  happen.  The current candidates are either focused on other tire sizes
  or content with the current offerings where durability trumps supple
  speedy tires.  I will go out an a limb and say I would like to be the
  one to bring these to market, but the learning curve is steep, and I
  am still at the bottom of the hill.  And it may be, well it is, bad
  form to talk about that in this arena.

  More later, hopefully
  Rob

  On Aug 17, 8:13 pm, Earl Grey earlg...@gmail.com wrote:

   Note, I have absolutely no power to make this happen, but if there are
   enough of us who would pre-order such a beast, perhaps someone with
   actual power would make this happen. Please specify if you have a
   preference for a Pari-Moto (38mm, ultra-light) or a Hetre (42mm,
   slightly thicker tread, but still very supple).

   Personally, I'd be happy to prepay $120 for a pair of either of them.

   Cheers,

   Gernot- Hide quoted text -

 - Show quoted text -

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[RBW] FS: Paul Touring Cantilevers plus extra

2010-08-18 Thread William
My Bombadil has Paul Touring Cantilevers on it.  The brakes are great,
mechanically perfecto, except they ride tall on the posts.  The
consequence is that my Nitto Mini front rack doesn't fit without
hitting the cable hanger.  I checked out a spacer fix, but have
decided that I'm just going to run the Tektro CR750s that I have
laying around.  So, now you can have the Paul's.

1 caliper - Paul Touring Cantilever Silver
1 caliper - Paul Touring Cantilever Black (anodization getting kind of
brownish, I confess)
The brake pads are Avid Rim Wrangler metal with those pin things, so
you can slide in whomever's shoes.  The shoes in there are koolstop
black, nearly new.
I have a set of new koolstop one piece pads too, like the ones you get
with the Paul brakes when you buy them new
Finally, I'll include a Paul front Brake Booster in black.  I tried to
remedy front brake chatter on my cross bike with that before I learned
what front brake chatter really is.
The carriers are generic triangular aluminum, with the name Curve on
them.

All of the above, $110 shipped anywhere in Con US.  Every penny will
go directly to my 650B 58cm A.H.Hilsen fund.  I run these brakes one
silver arm and one black.  It looks kind of harlequin, which I think
is cool.  You might not agree.  There are pictures of them on the bike
in my flickr:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/45758...@n04/4474034900/in/set-72157623611013487/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/45758...@n04/4474032576/in/photostream/

Contact off-list please if you want them.


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Re: [RBW] Re: Riv's Retreat from 650B in Larger Sizes, Optimum Tire Pressures/Sizes

2010-08-18 Thread Tim McNamara


On Aug 18, 2010, at 3:47 PM, bfd wrote:


On Aug 18, 1:10 pm, Steve Palincsar palin...@his.com wrote:

On Wed, 2010-08-18 at 12:59 -0700, Patrick in VT wrote:

On Aug 18, 3:01 pm, JoelMatthews joelmatth...@mac.com wrote:



Unless you and your friends actually race, why do you need a race
style bike at all?


just like it's fun to go bombing around on a country bike, some  
folks
find it fun to go fast on a road bike whether they race or not.   
light

bikes are fun to ride, and if people are having fun - why not have a
race style bike?  for the some, the occasional short fun ride  
is 50

miles at 20+mph - a road bike seems like a good choice there.


To me, the real question is, other than styling and the whole fantasy
wannabee pro racer let's play pretend, what real advantage does
something like a Madone give you for precisely that kind of riding  
over

a racing bike that Eddy Merckx might have ridden?


Similar questions can be fairly asked about mountain bikes,  
randonneur bikes, fixed gear bikes, 29ers, country bikes, etc.  It's  
just a matter of preferences.


snip


But, as Patrick stated if it gets someone out on a bike than what's
not to like?!


Bingo!

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Re: [RBW] Re: Riv's Retreat from 650B in Larger Sizes, Optimum Tire Pressures/Sizes

2010-08-18 Thread Steve Palincsar
On Wed, 2010-08-18 at 18:24 -0500, Tim McNamara wrote:
  To me, the real question is, other than styling and the whole
 fantasy
  wannabee pro racer let's play pretend, what real advantage does
  something like a Madone give you for precisely that kind of
 riding  
  over
  a racing bike that Eddy Merckx might have ridden?
 
 Similar questions can be fairly asked about mountain bikes,  
 randonneur bikes, fixed gear bikes, 29ers, country bikes, etc.  It's  
 just a matter of preferences.

Not quite sure what you mean, but I would have no difficulty finding a
real advantage for certain kinds of riding comparing a mountain bike
with a 1972 road racer, never mind a Madone; and I could easily show you
how a randonneur bike might provide you with advantages in certain
situations compared to a Madone.  

It's not just preferences, it is also a matter of some tools being more
suitable for certain jobs and certain users than others.  For the
particular users in the original discussion, I'm not sure I would find
many, or even any, meaningful advantage in a Madone vs a 1972 road
racer, and I could easily find some situations where the 1972 road racer
would be superior due to its greater versatility (because of its greater
clearances and its ability to mount fenders).

You will recall, in the original posting, bfd's friends wanted Madones
so they could be just like the pros because whatever the pros use must
be best for them.  My point has been all along that it ain't
necessarily so.


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[RBW] Re: Riv's Retreat from 650B in Larger Sizes, Optimum Tire Pressures/Sizes

2010-08-18 Thread Earl Grey


On Aug 19, 3:47 am, bfd bfd...@yahoo.com wrote:
 On Aug 18, 1:10 pm, Steve Palincsar palin...@his.com wrote:

 But, as Patrick stated if it gets someone out on a bike than what's
 not to like?!

I am not sure it's all that fabulous getting a person on a bike that
cannot serve as functional transportation (functional meaning even
when it rains or it's dark or you need to carry stuff), especially if
it reinforces the perception (in his/her mind, and in folks watching
him/her zip down the road) that a bike is nothing more than an
expensive toy for a rich person's sport, who is frivolously taking
road space away from people who *need* to go somewhere in their cars.
Maybe that road racer will eventually realize that a bike can be used
for transportation, and will go out of his/her way (as s/he must
today) to find a bike that fulfills those needs. But unfortunately I
think it is equally likely that the limitations of the bike they own
(and the bikes they see on the road) will lead them to believe that
all bikes are toys.

Granted, I see little problem with having a few racing bikes on the
road. But when that is the vast majority of the road bikes out there,
and the vast majority of the road bikes in the shops, then not only is
bicycling the poorer for it, but we as a society are.

Imagine for a moment that the car industry offered us nothing but
trunk- and top-less Formula 1 cars (racing bikes), military spec
Hummers (mtn bikes) oh, and a few Yugos (today's standard hybrids) and
a few Jeep Wranglers (low-end mountain bikes). A ludicrous proposition
(though sensible cars *are* few and far between), yet that is what the
mainstream bike industry looks like today.

So, thanks, Grant and everyone who is dedicated to showing there is an
alternative.

Gernot


The bad thing is that because racing style bikes are so
 prevalent, they dominate the market and make it harder for good,
 reliable equipment to be available at a reasonable price. The big
 example of that is Mavic removing its MA2 rim from the market.
 Arguably one of the best clincher rims ever made.

 Similarly, back in 2008, when  I was building up my steel cross/
 commuter bike, Paul Taylor breakaway, I wanted silver parts to match
 my black with gold paneled frameset. It may sound funny, but silver
 parts were not that easy to find! On my own, I was able to find most
 parts used or NOS and my LBS luckily sold Nitto bars and threadless
 stem. Of course, this was before VO started carrying more silver
 parts. Still, it was harder than sourcing black components which seem
 to be abundant in all price ranges. Good Luck!

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[RBW] Re: Friction shifting with Dia Compe bar end ³Silver Shifters²

2010-08-18 Thread Earl Grey
For what it's worth, I have silver shifters and a Shimano 12-27
cassette on my Sam, and it shifts exceedingly well. Because of it I
have fallen in love with friction shifting, and have turned off the
indexing on my Fisher monster cross (Shimano 9 speed barcons, custom
12-32 cassette). On the Fisher, I regularly get unintentional shifts,
especially in the big cogs. Both cassettes are reasonably new, both
chains are reasonably new SRAM. Haven't swapped things around to
isolate the culprit, but my suspicion is that the Shimano shifter in
friction can't be adjusted in similarly small increments.

Gernot


On Aug 18, 11:21 pm, CycloFiend cyclofi...@earthlink.net wrote:
 on 8/18/10 8:17 AM, JLa at juhani.lait...@gmail.com wrote:

  Is there anyone else using the ³Silver Shifters² with Shimano 9 speed
  11-34. I¹m wondering if it¹s really so that they don¹t work together
  well - or is it just about the technique?

 The main challanges with 9 speed gearing and friction shifting are that (1)
 you don't have as much margin for error as fewer rear sprockets (8, 7, 6,
 5...), and (2) _everything_ about the design of the sprockets is designed to
 let the chain shift smoothly and quickly to a different sprocket.  (In the
 olden days, you had to pretty significantly over-shift, then trim back -
 now, you kind of nudge it into the next gear).

 You can definitely use friction shifting with 9 speed setups. You'll learn
 the discrete amount you need to shift and it will become second nature.  It
 might also help to find what works for your riding style and hand position.
 I find that for me, keeping my thumb and forefinger on the bars supplies a
 reference - I shift up with my wrist and the little and ring finger and down
 with the heel of my palm. Taking your hand completely off the bar to shift
 is a little less specific.

 --
 Jim Edgar
 cyclofi...@earthlink.net

 ³Velvet pillows, safari parks, sunglasses: people have become woolly mice.
 They still have bodies that can walk for five days and four nights through a
 desert of snow, without food, but they accept praise for having taken a
 one-hour bicycle ride.²  - Tim Krabbe, The Rider

 Cyclofiend Bicycle Photo Galleries -http://www.cyclofiend.com
 Current Classics - Cross Bikes
 Singlespeed - Working Bikes

 Send In Your Photos! - Here's how:http://www.cyclofiend.com/guidelines

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Re: [RBW] Heron riders might be interested

2010-08-18 Thread andrew hill
looks like it didn't meet the reserve price.   i was the 2nd highest bidder, at 
$956.78

while that Heron was super-attractive to me with it's long top tube and 
horizontal dropouts (i'm trying to get a singslespeed together w/o chain 
tensioners and w long tt), i just couldn't bring myself to pay over $1K for it, 
or even up to that, with the $65 shipping.  

i came to the game late, however - got into Rivs after the Heron had moved on / 
been EOL'd.
what was the original retail price of a Heron Touring frame - anyone remember?

and on a similar note.. anyone have a rivish frame with standover in the low to 
mid 80s, horizontal dropouts, and a long top tube they might want to get out of 
their garage?   or.. a  58cm Quickbeam?  :D

cheers,
andrew


On Aug 13, 2010, at 12:37 AM, James Warren wrote:

 
 http://cgi.ebay.com/Vintage-Raleigh-Headlamp-bracket-Stem-Mount-Heron-/350383260715?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0
 
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Re: [RBW] Heron riders might be interested

2010-08-18 Thread andrew hill
ya Seth, that SO 56 is still available.. i just think it's a hair too small 
(and Grant agreed when I called :)

-a

On Aug 18, 2010, at 7:47 PM, Seth Vidal wrote:

 On Wed, Aug 18, 2010 at 10:40 PM, andrew hill neurod...@gmail.com wrote:
 looks like it didn't meet the reserve price.   i was the 2nd highest bidder, 
 at $956.78
 
 while that Heron was super-attractive to me with it's long top tube and 
 horizontal dropouts (i'm trying to get a singslespeed together w/o chain 
 tensioners and w long tt), i just couldn't bring myself to pay over $1K for 
 it, or even up to that, with the $65 shipping.
 
 i came to the game late, however - got into Rivs after the Heron had moved 
 on / been EOL'd.
 what was the original retail price of a Heron Touring frame - anyone 
 remember?
 
 and on a similar note.. anyone have a rivish frame with standover in the low 
 to mid 80s, horizontal dropouts, and a long top tube they might want to get 
 out of their garage?   or.. a  58cm Quickbeam?  :D
 
 
 so close - isn't that 56 simple one still up on rivbike?
 
 -sv
 
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[RBW] Re: Friction shifting with Dia Compe bar end “Silver Shifters”

2010-08-18 Thread JLa
I read from Paul's web site that the Thumbies have 26mm clamp size and
fit standard stem-clamp sleeves. But in the picture at rivbike.com
they are mounted on Nitto bars that should be 24mm diameter:

http://www.rivbike.com/images/products/full//0701/17-124a.jpg

Is it possible to fit them to Nitto Noodle bars like that? I'd like to
save the clamp area for my bell and speedometer.

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[RBW] Re: Friction shifting with Dia Compe bar end “Silver Shifters”

2010-08-18 Thread JLa
Thanks for all the help and advice! :)

I went for a ride and practiced shifting the 4 largest cogs. Then I
rode over a hill few times and pedaled harder for few strokes and then
pedaled lighter and shifted. The shifting was really a lot better than
before. It’s still not perfect though. It’s especially hard to shift
from the biggest cog to second and third biggest when pedaling uphill.

Anyways, now I hopefully won’t completely mess up my new cassette and
chains. I hope I’ll learn to shift even better.

Otherwise I’ll probably get myself some indexed shifters. Being wiser
now, I should have built either 8 speed with friction or 9 speed with
indexed.

I was looking at some Dura-Ace 9 speed down tube shifters in a web
shop. I would be happy to hear opinions about bar-end vs down tube
shifters. I don’t really like the long cables of bar end shifters, but
I’m not sure how it would be to always reach all the way down for
shifting - especially when shifting both front and rear “at the same
time”.

Other option would be Paul Thumbies. Any opinions about Dura-Ace
downtube shifters vs bar end shifters with Paul Thumbies?

By the way, is it possible to convert Dia Compe bar end shifters to
down tube shifters?

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Re: [RBW] Heron riders might be interested

2010-08-18 Thread Stuart Fletcher
Hi Andrew,

On Wed, Aug 18, 2010 at 19:40, andrew hill neurod...@gmail.com wrote:
 i came to the game late, however - got into Rivs after the Heron had moved on 
 / been EOL'd.
 what was the original retail price of a Heron Touring frame - anyone remember?


I don't know what the Herons retailed for, but recently on some
mailing list or other Alex Wetmore posted a link to his Heron Touring
from when he was selling it.  It seems to be from 2006 and he was
asking $1275 for a nearly complete bike.

So... bit of a mismatch in the price of the recent ebay frame and what
Alex thought his bike was worth.  I think part of it is that Alex gave
some lucky person a really good deal.

Maybe you've already seen this come to think of it...  Anyway, here's
the link.  There are photos, it's a nice looking bicycle:

http://phred.org/~alex/pictures/bikes/heron-touring/

Stuart Fletcher
Seattle, WA

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Re: [RBW] Re: Riv's Retreat from 650B in Larger Sizes, Optimum Tire Pressures/Sizes

2010-08-18 Thread cyclotourist
Did it just become February all of a sudden?


On Wed, Aug 18, 2010 at 7:02 PM, Earl Grey earlg...@gmail.com wrote:



 On Aug 19, 3:47 am, bfd bfd...@yahoo.com wrote:
  On Aug 18, 1:10 pm, Steve Palincsar palin...@his.com wrote:
 
  But, as Patrick stated if it gets someone out on a bike than what's
  not to like?!

 I am not sure it's all that fabulous getting a person on a bike that
 cannot serve as functional transportation (functional meaning even
 when it rains or it's dark or you need to carry stuff), especially if
 it reinforces the perception (in his/her mind, and in folks watching
 him/her zip down the road) that a bike is nothing more than an
 expensive toy for a rich person's sport, who is frivolously taking
 road space away from people who *need* to go somewhere in their cars.
 Maybe that road racer will eventually realize that a bike can be used
 for transportation, and will go out of his/her way (as s/he must
 today) to find a bike that fulfills those needs. But unfortunately I
 think it is equally likely that the limitations of the bike they own
 (and the bikes they see on the road) will lead them to believe that
 all bikes are toys.

 Granted, I see little problem with having a few racing bikes on the
 road. But when that is the vast majority of the road bikes out there,
 and the vast majority of the road bikes in the shops, then not only is
 bicycling the poorer for it, but we as a society are.

 Imagine for a moment that the car industry offered us nothing but
 trunk- and top-less Formula 1 cars (racing bikes), military spec
 Hummers (mtn bikes) oh, and a few Yugos (today's standard hybrids) and
 a few Jeep Wranglers (low-end mountain bikes). A ludicrous proposition
 (though sensible cars *are* few and far between), yet that is what the
 mainstream bike industry looks like today.

 So, thanks, Grant and everyone who is dedicated to showing there is an
 alternative.

 Gernot


 The bad thing is that because racing style bikes are so
  prevalent, they dominate the market and make it harder for good,
  reliable equipment to be available at a reasonable price. The big
  example of that is Mavic removing its MA2 rim from the market.
  Arguably one of the best clincher rims ever made.
 
  Similarly, back in 2008, when  I was building up my steel cross/
  commuter bike, Paul Taylor breakaway, I wanted silver parts to match
  my black with gold paneled frameset. It may sound funny, but silver
  parts were not that easy to find! On my own, I was able to find most
  parts used or NOS and my LBS luckily sold Nitto bars and threadless
  stem. Of course, this was before VO started carrying more silver
  parts. Still, it was harder than sourcing black components which seem
  to be abundant in all price ranges. Good Luck!

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Cheers,
David
Redlands, CA

One man's religion is another man's belly laugh.
--Robert A. Heinlein

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[RBW] Basic crank+cassette question

2010-08-18 Thread Adam Kimball
Hi all,

I'm hoping to cannibalize some parts from an old bike, but have a
question about matching cranks with rear cassette (and derailleurs if
they matter).  The drivetrain in question is a Shimano Ultegra compact
double.  The parts are quite new and would be great on a different
frame, but the style of the cranks (carbon) would look pretty silly on
a country-ish bike.  My very basic research tells me that I don't have
many choices for a cheaper ($200) set of cranks to match up with the
Shimano 10 speed cassette.  Hopefully I am wrong, thats why I've come
here.. can anyone help me understand compatibility between drivetrain
components?  I know this isn't riv specific, but I like the group and
trust the writers.

Thanks,
Adam

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Re: [RBW] Re: Riv's Retreat from 650B in Larger Sizes, Optimum Tire Pressures/Sizes

2010-08-18 Thread Ken Mattina
maybe they broke their ankles or something

On Wed, Aug 18, 2010 at 8:33 PM, cyclotourist cyclotour...@gmail.comwrote:

 Did it just become February all of a sudden?


 On Wed, Aug 18, 2010 at 7:02 PM, Earl Grey earlg...@gmail.com wrote:



 On Aug 19, 3:47 am, bfd bfd...@yahoo.com wrote:
  On Aug 18, 1:10 pm, Steve Palincsar palin...@his.com wrote:
 
  But, as Patrick stated if it gets someone out on a bike than what's
  not to like?!

 I am not sure it's all that fabulous getting a person on a bike that
 cannot serve as functional transportation (functional meaning even
 when it rains or it's dark or you need to carry stuff), especially if
 it reinforces the perception (in his/her mind, and in folks watching
 him/her zip down the road) that a bike is nothing more than an
 expensive toy for a rich person's sport, who is frivolously taking
 road space away from people who *need* to go somewhere in their cars.
 Maybe that road racer will eventually realize that a bike can be used
 for transportation, and will go out of his/her way (as s/he must
 today) to find a bike that fulfills those needs. But unfortunately I
 think it is equally likely that the limitations of the bike they own
 (and the bikes they see on the road) will lead them to believe that
 all bikes are toys.

 Granted, I see little problem with having a few racing bikes on the
 road. But when that is the vast majority of the road bikes out there,
 and the vast majority of the road bikes in the shops, then not only is
 bicycling the poorer for it, but we as a society are.

 Imagine for a moment that the car industry offered us nothing but
 trunk- and top-less Formula 1 cars (racing bikes), military spec
 Hummers (mtn bikes) oh, and a few Yugos (today's standard hybrids) and
 a few Jeep Wranglers (low-end mountain bikes). A ludicrous proposition
 (though sensible cars *are* few and far between), yet that is what the
 mainstream bike industry looks like today.

 So, thanks, Grant and everyone who is dedicated to showing there is an
 alternative.

 Gernot


 The bad thing is that because racing style bikes are so
  prevalent, they dominate the market and make it harder for good,
  reliable equipment to be available at a reasonable price. The big
  example of that is Mavic removing its MA2 rim from the market.
  Arguably one of the best clincher rims ever made.
 
  Similarly, back in 2008, when  I was building up my steel cross/
  commuter bike, Paul Taylor breakaway, I wanted silver parts to match
  my black with gold paneled frameset. It may sound funny, but silver
  parts were not that easy to find! On my own, I was able to find most
  parts used or NOS and my LBS luckily sold Nitto bars and threadless
  stem. Of course, this was before VO started carrying more silver
  parts. Still, it was harder than sourcing black components which seem
  to be abundant in all price ranges. Good Luck!

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 Cheers,
 David
 Redlands, CA

 One man's religion is another man's belly laugh.
 --Robert A. Heinlein

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-- 
Where did the spring go?
Where did my hormones go?
Where did my energy go?
Where did my go go?
Where did the pleasure go?
Where did my hair go?

-- Ray Davies

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[RBW] 61cm Atlantis FS

2010-08-18 Thread rcnute
Saw this just now on Seattle CL if anyone's looking:
http://seattle.craigslist.org/see/bik/1906811876.html

Ryan

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Re: [RBW] 61cm Atlantis FS

2010-08-18 Thread Seth Vidal
On Wed, Aug 18, 2010 at 11:53 PM, rcnute rcn...@hotmail.com wrote:
 Saw this just now on Seattle CL if anyone's looking:
 http://seattle.craigslist.org/see/bik/1906811876.html


heh. I have a 58cm atlantis that is probably just a touch too small
for me, but I still love it - just with slightly more seat post
showing than is seemly. :)

-sv

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[RBW] Re: Riv's Retreat from 650B in Larger Sizes, Optimum Tire Pressures/Sizes

2010-08-18 Thread rcnute
I was out riding.  What'd I miss?

Ryan

On Aug 18, 8:44 pm, Ken Mattina ken.matt...@gmail.com wrote:
 maybe they broke their ankles or something

 On Wed, Aug 18, 2010 at 8:33 PM, cyclotourist cyclotour...@gmail.comwrote:



  Did it just become February all of a sudden?

  On Wed, Aug 18, 2010 at 7:02 PM, Earl Grey earlg...@gmail.com wrote:

  On Aug 19, 3:47 am, bfd bfd...@yahoo.com wrote:
   On Aug 18, 1:10 pm, Steve Palincsar palin...@his.com wrote:

   But, as Patrick stated if it gets someone out on a bike than what's
   not to like?!

  I am not sure it's all that fabulous getting a person on a bike that
  cannot serve as functional transportation (functional meaning even
  when it rains or it's dark or you need to carry stuff), especially if
  it reinforces the perception (in his/her mind, and in folks watching
  him/her zip down the road) that a bike is nothing more than an
  expensive toy for a rich person's sport, who is frivolously taking
  road space away from people who *need* to go somewhere in their cars.
  Maybe that road racer will eventually realize that a bike can be used
  for transportation, and will go out of his/her way (as s/he must
  today) to find a bike that fulfills those needs. But unfortunately I
  think it is equally likely that the limitations of the bike they own
  (and the bikes they see on the road) will lead them to believe that
  all bikes are toys.

  Granted, I see little problem with having a few racing bikes on the
  road. But when that is the vast majority of the road bikes out there,
  and the vast majority of the road bikes in the shops, then not only is
  bicycling the poorer for it, but we as a society are.

  Imagine for a moment that the car industry offered us nothing but
  trunk- and top-less Formula 1 cars (racing bikes), military spec
  Hummers (mtn bikes) oh, and a few Yugos (today's standard hybrids) and
  a few Jeep Wranglers (low-end mountain bikes). A ludicrous proposition
  (though sensible cars *are* few and far between), yet that is what the
  mainstream bike industry looks like today.

  So, thanks, Grant and everyone who is dedicated to showing there is an
  alternative.

  Gernot

  The bad thing is that because racing style bikes are so
   prevalent, they dominate the market and make it harder for good,
   reliable equipment to be available at a reasonable price. The big
   example of that is Mavic removing its MA2 rim from the market.
   Arguably one of the best clincher rims ever made.

   Similarly, back in 2008, when  I was building up my steel cross/
   commuter bike, Paul Taylor breakaway, I wanted silver parts to match
   my black with gold paneled frameset. It may sound funny, but silver
   parts were not that easy to find! On my own, I was able to find most
   parts used or NOS and my LBS luckily sold Nitto bars and threadless
   stem. Of course, this was before VO started carrying more silver
   parts. Still, it was harder than sourcing black components which seem
   to be abundant in all price ranges. Good Luck!

  --
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  Cheers,
  David
  Redlands, CA

  One man's religion is another man's belly laugh.
  --Robert A. Heinlein

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 --
 Where did the spring go?
 Where did my hormones go?
 Where did my energy go?
 Where did my go go?
 Where did the pleasure go?
 Where did my hair go?

 -- Ray Davies

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[RBW] Re: Riv's Retreat from 650B in Larger Sizes, Optimum Tire Pressures/Sizes

2010-08-18 Thread rob markwardt
I sure hope you weren't on a racing bike.

On Aug 18, 9:09 pm, rcnute rcn...@hotmail.com wrote:
 I was out riding.  What'd I miss?

 Ryan

 On Aug 18, 8:44 pm, Ken Mattina ken.matt...@gmail.com wrote:



  maybe they broke their ankles or something

  On Wed, Aug 18, 2010 at 8:33 PM, cyclotourist cyclotour...@gmail.comwrote:

   Did it just become February all of a sudden?

   On Wed, Aug 18, 2010 at 7:02 PM, Earl Grey earlg...@gmail.com wrote:

   On Aug 19, 3:47 am, bfd bfd...@yahoo.com wrote:
On Aug 18, 1:10 pm, Steve Palincsar palin...@his.com wrote:

But, as Patrick stated if it gets someone out on a bike than what's
not to like?!

   I am not sure it's all that fabulous getting a person on a bike that
   cannot serve as functional transportation (functional meaning even
   when it rains or it's dark or you need to carry stuff), especially if
   it reinforces the perception (in his/her mind, and in folks watching
   him/her zip down the road) that a bike is nothing more than an
   expensive toy for a rich person's sport, who is frivolously taking
   road space away from people who *need* to go somewhere in their cars.
   Maybe that road racer will eventually realize that a bike can be used
   for transportation, and will go out of his/her way (as s/he must
   today) to find a bike that fulfills those needs. But unfortunately I
   think it is equally likely that the limitations of the bike they own
   (and the bikes they see on the road) will lead them to believe that
   all bikes are toys.

   Granted, I see little problem with having a few racing bikes on the
   road. But when that is the vast majority of the road bikes out there,
   and the vast majority of the road bikes in the shops, then not only is
   bicycling the poorer for it, but we as a society are.

   Imagine for a moment that the car industry offered us nothing but
   trunk- and top-less Formula 1 cars (racing bikes), military spec
   Hummers (mtn bikes) oh, and a few Yugos (today's standard hybrids) and
   a few Jeep Wranglers (low-end mountain bikes). A ludicrous proposition
   (though sensible cars *are* few and far between), yet that is what the
   mainstream bike industry looks like today.

   So, thanks, Grant and everyone who is dedicated to showing there is an
   alternative.

   Gernot

   The bad thing is that because racing style bikes are so
prevalent, they dominate the market and make it harder for good,
reliable equipment to be available at a reasonable price. The big
example of that is Mavic removing its MA2 rim from the market.
Arguably one of the best clincher rims ever made.

Similarly, back in 2008, when  I was building up my steel cross/
commuter bike, Paul Taylor breakaway, I wanted silver parts to match
my black with gold paneled frameset. It may sound funny, but silver
parts were not that easy to find! On my own, I was able to find most
parts used or NOS and my LBS luckily sold Nitto bars and threadless
stem. Of course, this was before VO started carrying more silver
parts. Still, it was harder than sourcing black components which seem
to be abundant in all price ranges. Good Luck!

   --
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   Cheers,
   David
   Redlands, CA

   One man's religion is another man's belly laugh.
   --Robert A. Heinlein

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  Where did the spring go?
  Where did my hormones go?
  Where did my energy go?
  Where did my go go?
  Where did the pleasure go?
  Where did my hair go?

  -- Ray Davies- Hide quoted text -

 - Show quoted text -

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[RBW] For Sale: Atlantis 61 cm frameset

2010-08-18 Thread mojo
I have it up on the Seattle Craigslist, along with a couple pictures.
I'd like to find a local buyer rather than deal with packing and
shipping. I had it built up for a summer, and liked it but it was a
bit too large for me. Asking $1500.

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[RBW] Sugino XD2 triple with 10 speed system

2010-08-18 Thread Jan RBW
Has anyone tried 10 speed systems with Sugino XD2 cranks?

Rivendell's web page says: Works with everything but 10 (or more--nice one
campy) speed cassette drive trains.

Why wouldn't it work with 10 speed? Is the 10 speed chain too narrow?

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Re: [RBW] Sugino XD2 triple with 10 speed system

2010-08-18 Thread Seth Vidal
On Wed, Aug 18, 2010 at 11:59 PM, Jan RBW jan@gmail.com wrote:

 Has anyone tried 10 speed systems with Sugino XD2 cranks?
 Rivendell's web page says: Works with everything but 10 (or more--nice one
 campy) speed cassette drive trains.
 Why wouldn't it work with 10 speed? Is the 10 speed chain too narrow?


Maybe  change the question around a bit:

why do you want 10spd? What about 7,8, or 9? They should all fit on
the same hub body, I think.

-sv

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[RBW] Re: Sugino XD2 triple with 10 speed system

2010-08-18 Thread Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery
The spacing between the chainrings on the XD is for 7/8sp chain. If
you are using indexed shifting for 10sp with 10sp chain, then the
front derailleur won't push the chain far enough to make the shift.
You could get around this if your front shifter is friction, but I
imagine there is a risk of the skinnier chain getting wedged between
the chainrings.

In my experience, if you are using 10sp, especially with STI, you
really want to make sure your drivetrain components match. Actually,
come to think of it, 9sp STI is pretty bad on the XD cranks, too, but
friction makes it better. Speaking of STI, the latest versions are,
IMO, much better than earlier ones. Uglier, too, but they work great.

You could brush off this topic and say 7-speed is plenty good for
me, which is true for most of us, but SRAM and Shimano are pushing
hard to make 10sp the standard for their mountain groups. There will
soon be many more gearing and shifter/derailleur options for 10sp than
there will be for 7/8/9sp. Personally, I run whatever I have lying
around, and have no preference as long as I can make it work on my
bike. I imagine I'll be using something 10sp in the not-too-distant
future.



On Aug 18, 10:59 pm, Jan RBW jan@gmail.com wrote:
 Has anyone tried 10 speed systems with Sugino XD2 cranks?

 Rivendell's web page says: Works with everything but 10 (or more--nice one
 campy) speed cassette drive trains.

 Why wouldn't it work with 10 speed? Is the 10 speed chain too narrow?

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Re: [RBW] Re: Riv's Retreat from 650B in Larger Sizes, Optimum Tire Pressures/Sizes

2010-08-18 Thread Tim McNamara


On Aug 18, 2010, at 6:33 PM, Steve Palincsar wrote:


On Wed, 2010-08-18 at 18:24 -0500, Tim McNamara wrote:

To me, the real question is, other than styling and the whole

fantasy

wannabee pro racer let's play pretend, what real advantage does
something like a Madone give you for precisely that kind of riding
over a racing bike that Eddy Merckx might have ridden?


Similar questions can be fairly asked about mountain bikes,
randonneur bikes, fixed gear bikes, 29ers, country bikes, etc.  It's
just a matter of preferences.


Not quite sure what you mean, but I would have no difficulty finding a
real advantage for certain kinds of riding comparing a mountain bike
with a 1972 road racer, never mind a Madone; and I could easily  
show you

how a randonneur bike might provide you with advantages in certain
situations compared to a Madone.

It's not just preferences, it is also a matter of some tools being  
more

suitable for certain jobs and certain users than others.  For the
particular users in the original discussion, I'm not sure I would find
many, or even any, meaningful advantage in a Madone vs a 1972 road
racer, and I could easily find some situations where the 1972 road  
racer
would be superior due to its greater versatility (because of its  
greater

clearances and its ability to mount fenders)


And some find a real advantage in the Madone- you might not, but they  
do.  Horses for courses.  It's not really any business of mine what  
someone else wants to ride, I figure.  My choices in bikes are what I  
think is best for me (and, given the mailing list in which I  
participate, you can guess pretty accurately what my preferences  
are.  I got no Madones.).



You will recall, in the original posting, bfd's friends wanted Madones
so they could be just like the pros because whatever the pros use  
must

be best for them.  My point has been all along that it ain't
necessarily so.


And it ain't necessarily so that it ain't necessarily so.  ;-)

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