Re: [RBW] Winter travel in Riv country

2012-09-19 Thread Michael Williams
Hey Jim,   again   depending on the weather I put a vote in for Point
Reyes,   the riding out there is great,   some guerilla camping if youre up
to it. And best of all,   I feel like regardless of the weather, god or
bad,  there shouldnt be a ton of car/foot traffic out there.   It doesnt
get as many visitors in the winter from my experience.   -Mike

On Wed, Sep 19, 2012 at 6:38 PM, Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery <
thill@gmail.com> wrote:

> I'm going to visit the SF area this winter. I plan to live mostly outside
> on my bike or in my tent for about 10 days. I'm accustomed to and well
> equipped for (mostly) dry, cold Minnesota winter, but I suppose wool and
> rain gear will keep me comfy enough in the SF area's warmer, moister winter
> weather. Any local knowledge about weather and how to dress for it will be
> appreciated.
>
> Secondly: I have been studying maps of all the lovely places encompassed
> by the GGNRA, and also Mount Diablo. But there's so much that looks great!
> Any must-ride routes? Suggestions for guerilla camping, or even, perish the
> thought, official campsites?
>
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[RBW] Re: Need shoe recommendations for riding.

2012-09-19 Thread Joe Bernard
A list member recommended Gola Harrier to me, and I'm very happy with them. 
I use them with Touring, Grip King, and RMX pedals.
 
Joe Bernard
Vallejo, CA.

On Wednesday, September 19, 2012 11:12:10 PM UTC-7, lungimsam wrote:

> Specifically something that is for regular pedals - not clipless.
> I use MKS Touring Pedals with MKS toe clips - no straps.
> Looking for something that has a harder sole for longer rides.
> My regular, every day shoes are great on commutes, but feel a little soft 
> on standing climbs, and sometimes my toes get squished as they get jammed 
> in the front of the shoe.
>  
> I can put up with it for the short rides, but I think it would get on me 
> nerves on longer rides.
>  
> Any tips are welcome.
>

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[RBW] Need shoe recommendations for riding.

2012-09-19 Thread lungimsam
Specifically something that is for regular pedals - not clipless.
I use MKS Touring Pedals with MKS toe clips - no straps.
Looking for something that has a harder sole for longer rides.
My regular, every day shoes are great on commutes, but feel a little soft 
on standing climbs, and sometimes my toes get squished as they get jammed 
in the front of the shoe.
 
I can put up with it for the short rides, but I think it would get on me 
nerves on longer rides.
 
Any tips are welcome.

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Re: [RBW] Re: Winter travel in Riv country

2012-09-19 Thread Toshi Takeuchi
It usually doesn't get colder than 40 degrees or so and the highs will
usually be in the 50s or low 60s. Depending on your luck it can be
splendidly sunny or cloudy and rainy/misty. I live in Oakland and love
riding in my neighborhood--Skyline/Grizzly Peak/Wildcat/loop through
Orinda/Moraga/Pinehurst. Great views of the San Francisco Bay, redwoods,
fresh air.  Another one of my favorites is Redwood Rd-Palomares-Calaveras
Dam. It's not a loop though. There's camping on Redwood Rd. (Chabot family
campground) and you can go towards Mt. Hamilton from Calaveras or take the
route back on Palomares and branch off towards Rivendell/Mt. Diablo or back
along Redwood Rd. to the Skyline loop mentioned above. If you need a night
off from the elements you are welcome to stay with us and get a roof above
your head.

You'll probably want to ride across the Golden Gate Bridge and climb
Conzelman to a breathtaking view of the bridge and San Francisco (in the
Marin Headlands/GGNRA). Hopefully there'll be a day where it won't be
totally fogged out. Like Manuel mentioned, on a day when it's not all cold
and foggy, climbing Mt. Tam is beautiful. Descending Diablo/Hamilton/Tam
can be very cold. I usually wear my outer layer of ski gloves in addition
to a bunch of layers and a wind/rain shell on top. I attached a view from
Conzelman.



Toshi

On Wed, Sep 19, 2012 at 7:52 PM, Manuel Acosta 
wrote:
> Weather wise you'll be fine.It doesn't get really bad here compared to
other
> parts of the country. Our winter is very mild. At worse you deal with rain
> but never freezing cold rain. (maybe only
>
> In terms of rides I like Tam and the Marin Headlands, but in the winter
> you're pretty much just climbing into the fog. Shell Ridge aka Rivendell
> country is always a good one. If you make you way south of the Bay Area
Mt.
> Hamilton is pretty nice.
>
> Let me know when you make it down I'll make a weekend free for a quick
> overnight or even a ride around somewhere.
>
> -Manny

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[RBW] Re: Rode Stevens Canyon

2012-09-19 Thread Manuel Acosta
Which stevens canyon is this? I can only think of the one near Los Altos.

Pictures are good classy 

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[RBW] Re: Winter travel in Riv country

2012-09-19 Thread dougP
Jim:

Keep us posted on your schedule.  While I'm at the other end of the
state, I'm interested in joining you.  Threat of rain generally makes
us Californians scurry for cover, as 45 degrees & soaking wet is more
difficult to manage than 20 degrees & snow that can be brushed off.
Besides, generally we don't have a long wait for better weather.
Hmmm...after 9+ years, my Atlantis may get fenders!  FWIW, the long
range forecast is for an El Nino winter.

dougP

On Sep 19, 6:38 pm, Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery 
wrote:
> I'm going to visit the SF area this winter. I plan to live mostly outside on 
> my bike or in my tent for about 10 days. I'm accustomed to and well equipped 
> for (mostly) dry, cold Minnesota winter, but I suppose wool and rain gear 
> will keep me comfy enough in the SF area's warmer, moister winter weather. 
> Any local knowledge about weather and how to dress for it will be appreciated.
>
> Secondly: I have been studying maps of all the lovely places encompassed by 
> the GGNRA, and also Mount Diablo. But there's so much that looks great! Any 
> must-ride routes? Suggestions for guerilla camping, or even, perish the 
> thought, official campsites?

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[RBW] Re: FS: TRP Tektro RRL Brake Levers Gum Hoods, Nitto Deluxe Stem 120mm, Davinci couplers

2012-09-19 Thread Zack
all sold!  thanks fellas.

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[RBW] Re: Rain Gear?

2012-09-19 Thread Tony
Me too Liesl for the Carradice poncho. I bought mine at RBW a few years 
ago, before they designed their own. I was using the Carradice spats with 
it, but never liked the way the tops would keep moving below my knees as I 
rode. So, this winter it'll be Splats and ShinShields. One thing about 
capes/ponchos is that they cover handlebar-mounted lights. I have a 
generator light now mounted in front of my Nitto Mini rack and all is right 
with the world.

Tony

On Monday, September 17, 2012 11:08:07 AM UTC-7, Liesl wrote:
>
> I do like my Carradice Poncho even though several miles in hard rain will 
> give me damp shoulders.  The cape is like a bike tent keeping everything 
> under it, bags and all,  relatively dry.  And you can wear anything at all 
> under it.  I particularly like it in sleet and slushy snow.
>
> liesl
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Winter travel in Riv country

2012-09-19 Thread Manuel Acosta

>
> Jim.

Theres a couple of free campsite around Marin Headlands that you can 
register for but you can find plenty of places around to "camp". I haven't 
had the time nor do I have the company to go out and explore some "camping" 
spots but I know plenty people that know a handful of places. Theres a 
facebook group called East Bay Bike Camping that would offer a plethora of 
information. 

I agree with Anne. Bay Area weather is weird.

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Re: [RBW] Re: Winter travel in Riv country

2012-09-19 Thread Anne Paulson
Jim,

Hard to tell about the weather. If it is rainy enough, some of the
dirt trails turn to a sticky clay that clogs up your brakes. And if
you happen to actually be riding on the coast during a winter storm,
you'll get pouring rain and strong winds. One real issue for camping
in this area if you happen to hit a rainy spell, on the coast side of
the Coast Range, is how to dry your clothes. Wool just won't dry. 45
degree weather and being soaking wet is how people get hypothermia.

So I'd suggest a good amount of wool and some good rainwear. I wear
booties and a wool hat through the winter. Bring spare gloves.

Then again, the weather might be gorgeous. I once did a little
overnight from my house to Half Moon Bay between Christmas and New
Years, and ended up riding in shirtsleeves.

-- Anne

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[RBW] Re: Winter travel in Riv country

2012-09-19 Thread Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery
Thanks Manny! I assume it's possible to find out-of-the-way places to camp 
around Mt Tam and Marin Headlands, or is it more of a campground-only kinda 
camping experience?

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Re: [RBW] Re: First-time bicycle assembly advice

2012-09-19 Thread Michael Richters
On Wed, Sep 19, 2012 at 7:47 PM, Doug Magney  wrote:
> Here is a link to Sheldon Brown's classic article on cold setting frame 
> dropouts.  http://sheldonbrown.com/frame-spacing.html
> I've done it as a novice and got excellent results.

Aha!  I searched for the wrong terms when I went to Sheldon's website,
apparently.  Well, now that I know how it's done, there's no way I'd
want to try this (or have my less-than-confident local bike shop
mechanic try it) on a brand-new $2000 frame.  On an old frame that
isn't useful otherwise, sure...

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[RBW] Re: Winter travel in Riv country

2012-09-19 Thread Manuel Acosta
Weather wise you'll be fine.It doesn't get really bad here compared to 
other parts of the country. Our winter is very mild. At worse you deal with 
rain but never freezing cold rain. (maybe only 

In terms of rides I like Tam and the Marin Headlands, but in the winter 
you're pretty much just climbing into the fog. Shell Ridge aka Rivendell 
country is always a good one. If you make you way south of the Bay Area 
Mt. Hamilton is pretty nice. 

Let me know when you make it down I'll make a weekend free for a quick 
overnight or even a ride around somewhere.

-Manny

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Re: [RBW] New Quickbeam! Pictures!

2012-09-19 Thread Manuel Acosta

>
> Makes me sad that I can't find one my size. I always wanted to be IN with 
> the cool people
>
 

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[RBW] Re: New Quickbeam! Pictures!

2012-09-19 Thread BSWP
Another Orange QuickBeam, looks great! (and I know a small bit of the story 
on the "found in the attic" 64cm QB). Love the Bullmoose bars. It looks 
like you could lose a pair of links on your chain, and still have room for 
the tire.

I would like a low-mounted front cable stop, like yours, but my options are 
limited with the Nitto rack there.

- Andrew, Berkeley
- 66cm QuickBeam
- 66cm LongLow

On Wednesday, September 19, 2012 6:47:14 PM UTC-7, Jeremy Till wrote:
>
> I got my NOS Orange Quickbeam built up a month ago, but only just now got 
> around to taking a posting some photos.  The bike is still in flux, but 
> nonetheless awesome. The full story: 
>
>
> http://handlebarchronicles.blogspot.com/2012/09/bikes-rivendell-quickbeam.html
>
> Posted via my new blogging project, which you are welcome to check out as 
> well.  Comments encouraged!
>
>
>

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[RBW] New Quickbeam! Pictures!

2012-09-19 Thread Jeremy Till
I got my NOS Orange Quickbeam built up a month ago, but only just now got 
around to taking a posting some photos.  The bike is still in flux, but 
nonetheless awesome. The full story: 

http://handlebarchronicles.blogspot.com/2012/09/bikes-rivendell-quickbeam.html

Posted via my new blogging project, which you are welcome to check out as 
well.  Comments encouraged!


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[RBW] Winter travel in Riv country

2012-09-19 Thread Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery
I'm going to visit the SF area this winter. I plan to live mostly outside on my 
bike or in my tent for about 10 days. I'm accustomed to and well equipped for 
(mostly) dry, cold Minnesota winter, but I suppose wool and rain gear will keep 
me comfy enough in the SF area's warmer, moister winter weather. Any local 
knowledge about weather and how to dress for it will be appreciated.

Secondly: I have been studying maps of all the lovely places encompassed by the 
GGNRA, and also Mount Diablo. But there's so much that looks great! Any 
must-ride routes? Suggestions for guerilla camping, or even, perish the 
thought, official campsites?

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[RBW] Frame prep...

2012-09-19 Thread Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery
Probably not necessary to face the BB if you're using a modern cartridge square 
taper BB like Shimano or Tange. If you're using Phil, definitely don't face it. 
If you're using an external bearing BB, especially a really nice one like Chris 
King, then you should face it.

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Re: [RBW] Re: First-time bicycle assembly advice

2012-09-19 Thread Doug Magney
Here is a link to Sheldon Brown's classic article on cold setting frame 
dropouts.  http://sheldonbrown.com/frame-spacing.html
I've done it as a novice and got excellent results.

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Re: [RBW] Frame prep...

2012-09-19 Thread Peter Morgano
I find green is hard to get across in photos. The old Sam green looked
terrible on the Rivendell site but was really nice in person.

On Wed, Sep 19, 2012 at 8:15 PM, soapscum  wrote:

> Hi,
>
> I'm prepping my new Hunqapillar frame for a build and I'm wondering how
> necessary it is to face the bottom bracket shell. Nice to have? Must have?
>
> Also: have to say that the photos I've seen of the green/cream Hunqapillar
> livery don't do it justice. It's VERY nice, and I'm a tough customer when
> it comes to green...
>
>
> Thanks!
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: First-time bicycle assembly advice

2012-09-19 Thread Peter Morgano
Well it is obvious you are frustrated with the list members who are
just trying to help so why dont you take "this" conversation out of "here"
and take it up with Rivendell directly. If you wrote them as acrimonious of
an email as you wrote us I would think they would respond right away...

On Wed, Sep 19, 2012 at 8:36 PM, Michael Richters <
michael.richt...@gmail.com> wrote:

> Thanks for the advice, guys, but you obviously didn't read my
> description of the situation.  It's not a complete bike; it's just a
> frameset with nothing on it, except maybe the front wheel.  There's no
> chain, no derailleur, et cetera.  Since I only have two hands, I can't
> spread the dropouts and simultaneously lift the wheel in.  And I'm not
> the slightest bit interested in how far other people are able to flex
> the frames of other bikes, as this is not at all relevant.  I don't
> doubt that you're able to spread the dropouts of the frames in
> question as you describe.  It would be nice if you would give me the
> same courtesy of accepting the truth of my statement that I have tried
> the same thing on the frame in question, and I cannot accomplish the
> feat.
>
> Before leaning on the frame with all my weight to jam the wheel in the
> dropouts, I tried spreading it with my hands and lowering it onto the
> wheel, but my fingers can only get so close to the dropouts with the
> wheel in there, and whether I grab the seatstays or the chainstays, I
> can't spread it far enough (if I grab it right at the dropouts, I can,
> but that's not at all useful).  I tried several methods, and the only
> one that resulted in a wheel all the way in both dropouts was leaning
> on the frame with most of my weight.  Even after this scraped off
> virtually all the paint on the forward edge of the inside surfaces of
> the dropouts, this was still the only thing that worked.
>
> As for how big 1.5mm is, I know full well.  As I wrote before, I
> measured the space between the dropouts with calipers.
>
> Lest I sound too ungrateful, I do appreciate that you guys are (more
> or less) trying to be helpful.  I just want you all to understand that
> how easy something *should* be in theory -- or even in your own
> experience -- is not relevant.  What is relevant in this case is *my*
> experience with *this* frame.  And in this case, I paid $2000 for a
> frame with 135mm dropouts, and I got one with 132mm dropouts, which I
> would have been willing to put up with if I could have been confident
> that I could get the wheel in and out of on the road without risking
> hurting myself.  Fortunately for me, when I discussed the matter with
> the very excellent people at Rivendell, they decided to replace the
> frame with one that has the correct dimensions.  I am grateful,
> although I have misgivings about how much this is costing them; I
> would have much prefered it if we could have found a less expensive
> way to solve the problem (none of the local bike shops seem to be
> confident that they can spread and align the dropouts on a steel
> frame).  Alas, this was not to be.
>
> Now, since I am not a three-armed Arnold Swarzenegger, I would
> appreciate it if people would stop telling me what I "should" be able
> to accomplish.
>
>   --MR
>
> On Wed, Sep 19, 2012 at 6:50 PM, Jim M.  wrote:
> > Agreed. You should stand behind the bike to spread the dropouts and pull
> the
> > wheel up into them. I put a 130 in 126, and a 126 in a 122 all the time.
> You
> > won't damage the frame -- another benefit of steel.
> >
> > jim
> >
> >
> > On Wednesday, September 19, 2012 4:40:47 PM UTC-7, ttoshi wrote:
> >>
> >> You don't put the wheel on the frame by pushing down on it with your
> >> weight.  You need to spread the frame with your hands and then slide
> >> the wheel in.
> >>
> >> 3 mm means you just need to spread the frame by 1.5 mm on each side.
> >> It shouldn't require much force. You can see this by flexing the frame
> >> with your hands (with no wheel). Check with a ruler to see how small
> >> 1.5 mm is.
> >>
> >> The wheel may not go on the drive side too easily because your rear
> >> derailer (RD) is not aligned properly.  Put your RD in the smallest
> >> cog in the rear cassette and put the chain onto the smallest cog
> >> before you try to slide it into the dropouts. If you don't do this
> >> already, then it's a great method for fixing flats.
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: First-time bicycle assembly advice

2012-09-19 Thread Michael Richters
Thanks for the advice, guys, but you obviously didn't read my
description of the situation.  It's not a complete bike; it's just a
frameset with nothing on it, except maybe the front wheel.  There's no
chain, no derailleur, et cetera.  Since I only have two hands, I can't
spread the dropouts and simultaneously lift the wheel in.  And I'm not
the slightest bit interested in how far other people are able to flex
the frames of other bikes, as this is not at all relevant.  I don't
doubt that you're able to spread the dropouts of the frames in
question as you describe.  It would be nice if you would give me the
same courtesy of accepting the truth of my statement that I have tried
the same thing on the frame in question, and I cannot accomplish the
feat.

Before leaning on the frame with all my weight to jam the wheel in the
dropouts, I tried spreading it with my hands and lowering it onto the
wheel, but my fingers can only get so close to the dropouts with the
wheel in there, and whether I grab the seatstays or the chainstays, I
can't spread it far enough (if I grab it right at the dropouts, I can,
but that's not at all useful).  I tried several methods, and the only
one that resulted in a wheel all the way in both dropouts was leaning
on the frame with most of my weight.  Even after this scraped off
virtually all the paint on the forward edge of the inside surfaces of
the dropouts, this was still the only thing that worked.

As for how big 1.5mm is, I know full well.  As I wrote before, I
measured the space between the dropouts with calipers.

Lest I sound too ungrateful, I do appreciate that you guys are (more
or less) trying to be helpful.  I just want you all to understand that
how easy something *should* be in theory -- or even in your own
experience -- is not relevant.  What is relevant in this case is *my*
experience with *this* frame.  And in this case, I paid $2000 for a
frame with 135mm dropouts, and I got one with 132mm dropouts, which I
would have been willing to put up with if I could have been confident
that I could get the wheel in and out of on the road without risking
hurting myself.  Fortunately for me, when I discussed the matter with
the very excellent people at Rivendell, they decided to replace the
frame with one that has the correct dimensions.  I am grateful,
although I have misgivings about how much this is costing them; I
would have much prefered it if we could have found a less expensive
way to solve the problem (none of the local bike shops seem to be
confident that they can spread and align the dropouts on a steel
frame).  Alas, this was not to be.

Now, since I am not a three-armed Arnold Swarzenegger, I would
appreciate it if people would stop telling me what I "should" be able
to accomplish.

  --MR

On Wed, Sep 19, 2012 at 6:50 PM, Jim M.  wrote:
> Agreed. You should stand behind the bike to spread the dropouts and pull the
> wheel up into them. I put a 130 in 126, and a 126 in a 122 all the time. You
> won't damage the frame -- another benefit of steel.
>
> jim
>
>
> On Wednesday, September 19, 2012 4:40:47 PM UTC-7, ttoshi wrote:
>>
>> You don't put the wheel on the frame by pushing down on it with your
>> weight.  You need to spread the frame with your hands and then slide
>> the wheel in.
>>
>> 3 mm means you just need to spread the frame by 1.5 mm on each side.
>> It shouldn't require much force. You can see this by flexing the frame
>> with your hands (with no wheel). Check with a ruler to see how small
>> 1.5 mm is.
>>
>> The wheel may not go on the drive side too easily because your rear
>> derailer (RD) is not aligned properly.  Put your RD in the smallest
>> cog in the rear cassette and put the chain onto the smallest cog
>> before you try to slide it into the dropouts. If you don't do this
>> already, then it's a great method for fixing flats.

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[RBW] Frame prep...

2012-09-19 Thread soapscum
Hi,

I'm prepping my new Hunqapillar frame for a build and I'm wondering how 
necessary it is to face the bottom bracket shell. Nice to have? Must have?

Also: have to say that the photos I've seen of the green/cream Hunqapillar 
livery don't do it justice. It's VERY nice, and I'm a tough customer when 
it comes to green...


Thanks!

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Re: [RBW] Re: First-time bicycle assembly advice

2012-09-19 Thread Joe Bernard
This is getting out of hand. My Saluki rebranded as a Hilsen was a true 
135, and the site claims 135. The buyer needs to work this out with Grant. 
Us telling him "it's not a problem" is not helping.
 
Joe Bernard
Vallejo, CA.

On Wednesday, September 19, 2012 4:50:13 PM UTC-7, Jim M. wrote:

> Agreed. You should stand behind the bike to spread the dropouts and pull 
> the wheel up into them. I put a 130 in 126, and a 126 in a 122 all the 
> time. You won't damage the frame -- another benefit of steel.
>
> jim
>
> On Wednesday, September 19, 2012 4:40:47 PM UTC-7, ttoshi wrote:
>>
>> You don't put the wheel on the frame by pushing down on it with your 
>> weight.  You need to spread the frame with your hands and then slide 
>> the wheel in. 
>> > 
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: Hand Numbness, an observation

2012-09-19 Thread bwphoto
Back in the 70s I would experience some hand numbness after about 50-60 
miles, for quite a few years the standard fix was to put the effected hand 
behind my back, squeeze my fingers several times and the problem would be 
gone. At the same time I started playing around with both saddle and brake 
position and found that a slight upward tilt of the nose took care of most 
of the of the problem. After getting saddle tilt correct I started moving 
the brake hoods slightly up and down until my wrist was straight when on 
the hood. Both adjustments pretty much took care of the issue.

A few years ago I mentioned the issue to my neurologist...the issue of hand 
and finger numbness stems mostly from pinching the nerve canal that takes 
the nerves through the wrist into the hand and fingers. Keeping that 
channel open by not riding long with the wrists bent helps to reduce the 
numbness. However, as we age and get more arthritic those channels 
naturally narrow making it easier for the nerves to be effected.

I spent a lot of time this year on my mountain bike this year using it as 
my main errand vehicle and nothing seemed to reduce the hand and finger 
numbness. I tried the Ergo bar ends changed handle bars saddle height etc. 
nothing made a difference. I don't have that problem with my Sam or my 
other road bikes. the straight handlebars combined with frame geometry 
would not allow me to decrease the wrist bend enough to keep the wrist 
nerve channel open. 

Apparently the problem is similar to other repetitive injuries caused by 
joint position.

So maybe play round with both saddle and handlebar positioning, and because 
we each have unique anatomic issues works for one may not work for another.

On Tuesday, September 18, 2012 3:03:57 PM UTC-5, Mojo wrote:
>
> Recently over on the Surly Long Haul Trucker list, there was a thread on 
> bike setup and comfort. The original poster was complaining about hand 
> numbness and most folks wrote in with the advice to raise the bars and move 
> the saddle aft to take pressure off the hands. I didn't have any good 
> further advice for the OP. But I do have an associated observation. 
> After riding low-handlebar racing type bikes from 1976-2001, I have been 
> riding more Rivendell-influenced bikes ever since, with my handlebars very 
> near saddle height and saddle now set back 1-2cm behind KOPS. I have always 
> had very minor numb hand issues. I just usually shake them out and they are 
> fine for several more miles or even hours. But I have observed over the 
> last few years that my numb hands seem to occur most often when climbing, 
> less so riding the flats, and never descending. This observation seems to 
> run counter to the idea that it is the extra weight on the hands that 
> creates numbness. 
>  
> Again its just a minor problem for me. I nearly always wear gloves. My 
> bars are all thinly wrapped in cork/fake cork. My reach is fairly generous. 
> Now of course on a loop ride I will be spending much more time climbing 
> than descending and maybe the most amout of time overall riding on mostly 
> flat roads. But if the theory that more weight on the hands leads to 
> numbness, why am I not feeling it at the bottom of my descents instead of 
> on the climbs? I really don't even have an hypothesis at this point. 
> Thoughts? 
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: First-time bicycle assembly advice

2012-09-19 Thread Jim M.
Agreed. You should stand behind the bike to spread the dropouts and pull 
the wheel up into them. I put a 130 in 126, and a 126 in a 122 all the 
time. You won't damage the frame -- another benefit of steel.

jim

On Wednesday, September 19, 2012 4:40:47 PM UTC-7, ttoshi wrote:
>
> You don't put the wheel on the frame by pushing down on it with your 
> weight.  You need to spread the frame with your hands and then slide 
> the wheel in. 
> > 
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: First-time bicycle assembly advice

2012-09-19 Thread Toshi Takeuchi
You don't put the wheel on the frame by pushing down on it with your
weight.  You need to spread the frame with your hands and then slide
the wheel in.

3 mm means you just need to spread the frame by 1.5 mm on each side.
It shouldn't require much force. You can see this by flexing the frame
with your hands (with no wheel). Check with a ruler to see how small
1.5 mm is.

The wheel may not go on the drive side too easily because your rear
derailer (RD) is not aligned properly.  Put your RD in the smallest
cog in the rear cassette and put the chain onto the smallest cog
before you try to slide it into the dropouts. If you don't do this
already, then it's a great method for fixing flats.

Toshi


On Sat, Sep 15, 2012 at 10:17 AM, Michael Richters
 wrote:

[...]

> I won't file it.  But you're not listening.  It is not okay.  I can't
> even get the wheel in by putting my weight on the bike.  In order to
> apply enough force to get it in there, I am likely to hurt myself
> and/or drop the bike.  It's not about damaging the dropouts.
>

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[RBW] Re: FS: TRP Tektro RRL Brake Levers Gum Hoods, Nitto Deluxe Stem 120mm, Davinci couplers

2012-09-19 Thread The Cripler
Zack...it was ugly box. But quite functional! :) Love the A-bars BTW. 

On Wednesday, September 19, 2012 4:02:19 PM UTC-7, Zack wrote:
>
> Yep, that is what I did when I sold a pair of albas (make a box).  Was 
> ugly, but got the job done.
>
> This stuff is all still available.  Would do the whole shebang for $225.
>

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[RBW] Re: Grant Peterson (Rivendell) book event + ride! 9/23 ~ Naperville, IL

2012-09-19 Thread Marty

>
> May be able to make this one, and if all goes well will have my Bombadil 
> along. 


Marty 

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[RBW] Re: FS: TRP Tektro RRL Brake Levers Gum Hoods, Nitto Deluxe Stem 120mm, Davinci couplers

2012-09-19 Thread Zack
Yep, that is what I did when I sold a pair of albas (make a box).  Was 
ugly, but got the job done.

This stuff is all still available.  Would do the whole shebang for $225.

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Re: [RBW] Nice Lugged frame on ebay

2012-09-19 Thread Peter Morgano
If it was so nice why did you sell it? Just curious since it seems like not
a lot of original owners still have this.
On Sep 19, 2012 6:45 PM, "numbnuts"  wrote:

> I had a P56 for a few years. It was one of the nicest frames I have ever
> ridden, and pretty too. I liked it better than my Rom. It was noticeably
> smoother. And the price seems very good.
>
> Regards,
> Chris
> Redding, Ca.
>
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Re: [RBW] Cycling in the Economist

2012-09-19 Thread Michael Richters
On Wed, Sep 12, 2012 at 8:57 PM, PATRICK MOORE  wrote:
> And in the US and in London.
>
> http://www.economist.com/node/21562252

>From the first article:

"Yet while the future looks bright, America will struggle to catch up
with northern Europe, where the proportion of local trips done by bike
can be as high as 30%. One reason for this is that car ownership
remains far cheaper in America. Another is the absence of restrictions
on car use, which would greatly improve cycle safety. Europeans are
far keener on traffic-calming measures, car-free zones, fewer parking
spaces and road 'diets'—where cars are allocated a narrower piece of
road."

The author(s) don't even mention the single biggest reason for the
normalcy of transport cycling in the Netherlands: separated cycle
paths (not "mulit-use paths"), with junctions designed to eliminate
conflict between different modes of transport.  Disappointingly sloppy
analysis from the Economist.

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Re: [RBW] Cycling in the Economist

2012-09-19 Thread bwphoto
Almost daily I see more and more old guys like me out doing the same thing I'm 
doing on a bike...running errands and just using a bike for getting around. 
This is something I hardly saw 10 to 15 years ago, there were very few of us 
riding for transportation let alone year around. Each time i  ride through 
Minneapolis it feels more and more like Eugene OR felt in the late 
'70s...people riding and bikes parked every where.

I think Jim is right about the trails in Mpls it is nice to have streets 
already scouted for route suitability, something we are lacking just across the 
river in St. Paul. 

As to the weather I see signs in the industry that will probably lead to more 
gear & clothing designed to make it easier for more people to venture out in 
winter here regardless of snow. That's one of the factors that helped increase 
winter bike use in Portland.

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[RBW] Re: Rain Gear?

2012-09-19 Thread john
In my opinion, keeping warm while riding in the wet is more important than 
keeping dry. In fact, keeping dry, in really wet weather (be it from 
perspiration or leaks in fabric) is impossible, regardless of what any 
manufacturers say. That's why wool is such a great fabric: one tends to 
stay warm, even when wet. Therefore, I try to think of the temperature, 
rather than the moisture content in the sky, when choosing my apparel. (I 
live in Portland, OR, where it can be colder than many people imagine it to 
be! Winter time riding could be as balmy as 50 degrees F. or as cold as 20 
degrees F. Quite a difference! Usually, this means layers of wool, combined 
with "waterproof" shell material. I have been very impressed with two 
jacket manufacturers: Burley (alas, no longer made) and Showers Pass. 

Since my legs seldom get cold while riding, I don't often wear rain pants. 
When I do, any cheap old pair will do. The cheaper, the better, actually. 
If it's wet enough to wear rain pants, overheating doesn't much matter.

Hands, head, and feet are important considerations, also. I ride clipless, 
so my feet get wet. Keeping them warm is a challenge. I use either old wool 
stocks with cleat holes cut out, which I wear over my shoes, or neoprene 
booties over my shoes. Both do a good job of keeping my feet warmer. 
Nothing will keep them dry. Why bother?

Hands: wool gloves with half finger cycling gloves over them for snug fit 
and grip on the bars. It's got to be really cold and wet before I wish for 
more protection.

Head: a wool bike cap or wood beanie under my helmet. I don't use a helmet 
cover. I do use a rain jacket hood when it's really wet, but I prefer not 
to most often, because it hinders my visibility and hearing.

In the end, Iust embrace the wet season, realize it may be uncomfortable, 
and relish the days when it is not.

On Thursday, September 13, 2012 11:55:57 AM UTC-7, tragicallyaverage wrote:
>
> As the rainy season approaches, I've been motivated to keep myself dry. My 
> former method of riding in the rain was to ride a fendered bike, and then 
> simply get soaked on my commutes. 
> I'd like to attempt to stay as dry and comfy as the fall season 
> approaches. Any suggestions or products that have worked well for anyone?
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: A little OT: Swift Industries interview

2012-09-19 Thread John Bokman
This bag is really meant to be attatched to a decaleur, or mounting  
system which makes the bag quick release. That is to say, one can use  
it by attatching it to the platform of the front rack without a  
decaleur, but it will be most stable when using a decaleur. This type  
of bag is meant to be resting on the front rack, but secured by the  
decaleur. That said, Martina has placed her velcro straps on the  
bottom of the bag very nicely, and there is a strong bond to the rack  
just using the straps. Still, if  you are riding on rough roads, I  
would recommend using this bag with a decaleur.

On Sep 15, 2012, at 10:55 AM, Allingham II, Thomas J wrote:

Does this attach securely to, say, a Mark's Rack?  How much does it  
wobble, unloaded and loaded?


From: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com [mailto:rbw-owners- 
bu...@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of john

Sent: Friday, September 14, 2012 10:27 AM
To: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
Subject: [RBW] Re: A little OT: Swift Industries interview

I've got a Swift Cycles Rando bag for sale. New, never used.  
Gorgeous. $225, shipped.Check out their website.


On Monday, September 10, 2012 10:06:32 AM UTC-7, Scot Brooks wrote:
I got to interview Martina from Swift this weekend. They make super  
nice bags for bicycles, and the waxed canvas option is excellent  
and quite Riv-ish. Check it out if you like. http:// 
cyclingillustrated.com/local-maker-interview-vol-1-swift-industries- 
by-scot-hinckley/


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[RBW] Re: FS: Rare Nitto rack, new

2012-09-19 Thread Bill
sold!

On Saturday, September 15, 2012 10:51:11 AM UTC-5, Bill wrote:
>
> For Sale:
>
> A Nitto RN201 saddlebag support rack.
>
> Only available to Japanese domestic market.  I have never seen these 
> anywhere besides Japan. 
>
> Attaches to rear cantilever brakes and bridge boss for fender. 
> This rack is essentially the saddlebag equivalent of the Nitto M12 or M13. 
> Same finish (nickel plated) and construction quality, black & silver Nitto 
> decal. 
>
> This rack will work best with rear brakes that have a high profile/yoke 
> (i.e. Tektro CR720, Paul Neo-Retro, Mafac, etc). 
>
> Brand-new, never installed. 
>
> Example of rack installed: 
>
> http://i.imgur.com/dBtOs.jpg
> http://i.imgur.com/U5WMg.jpg
>
> Pictures of actual rack (large):
>
> http://i.imgur.com/3YLma.jpg
> http://i.imgur.com/Z8UYc.jpg
> http://i.imgur.com/ktzcX.jpg
> http://i.imgur.com/oZNjd.jpg
> http://i.imgur.com/toLGk.jpg
>
> $110 shipped USPS Priority.

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[RBW] FS: Ostrich Handlebar Bag

2012-09-19 Thread tragicallyaverage
Impulsively bought this Ostrich handlebar bag, thought it was smaller than 
it is. It'll mount on a Nitto F-15 h-bag support, or similar support 
system. 7x7x9.5
Map sleeve on top. Zippers for main compartment and front, side pockets are 
velcro tabs, mesh rear pocket. A boxy bag, I'd say it's a cross between a 
Barsack and a vintage Cannondale or similar h-bag.

$30 shipped. Paypal personal.

Photos here: http://s821.photobucket.com/albums/zz136/dabanzer/For%20sale/

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[RBW] Re: Rain Gear?

2012-09-19 Thread Hoffsta
I am the type to ride very vigorously everywhere I go. I have yet to find 
rain gear that doesn't leave me overheated and soaked in sweat no matter 
the outside temps. I'd love to hear from other high output riders who have 
found success.

Sean
Eugene, OR

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[RBW] WTT: Acorn Large Saddlebag for Nitto Mark's Rack

2012-09-19 Thread Shifty
I have a 6 month-old Acorn Large Saddlebag that just got supplanted by Erik 
P's old Nigel Smythe bag. I'd like to trade the Acorn straight up for a 
Nitto Mark's Rack. If interested, contact me off-list please. I'm happy to 
provide some photos, it's Ranger Tan waxed canvas.

Cheers,
Sean (Shifty)

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Re: [RBW] Re: First-time bicycle assembly advice

2012-09-19 Thread Michael Richters
On Sat, Sep 15, 2012 at 11:41 AM, James Warren  wrote:
> I would not file it. Maybe you should call Rivendell.

I will.  Unfortunately, Keven seems to be out for the next week and a half.

> Is it possible that your frame was tweaked in transit somewhere? You should 
> call them and not take my word on the following speculation which is that I'd 
> be surprised if they let a frame get sold to a customer that is not 135 
> without telling the customer. Rivendell is consistently good about that kind 
> of detail. It makes me wonder if something accidental happened somewhere with 
> yours.

Very doubtful that it was damaged in transit.  The box was in good condition.

> But still, if the frame's fully straight and aligned and rides well, 132.1 is 
> a good dimension to have back there. To put in a 135 hub, you're only moving 
> things 1.45 mm per side.

I have no idea how it rides yet, because I haven't built it up yet.
When I jam the wheel in, it appears to be straight, but that's hardly
proof of anything.  And I may be only moving things 1.45mm per side,
but that requires a tremendous effort on my part.  With the front
wheel mounted and the dropouts lined up with the rear axle, I can lean
pretty hard on the frame and only one side of the axle will slide into
the dropout.  I'm not very heavy, but this is just not acceptable.

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Re: [RBW] Re: First-time bicycle assembly advice

2012-09-19 Thread Michael Richters
On Sat, Sep 15, 2012 at 12:09 PM, Leslie  wrote:
> Don't file.Bending it out by less than 3mm (about 1.5mm per side) is not
> a problem;  removing metal is.
>
> Look at how the rear triangle is made:  a pair of chainstay tubes from the
> bottom bracket shell coming back, a pair of seatstay tubes coming from the
> top of the seattube down; each side meeting on a dropout.   When W'ford
> built these, there's a jig that holds the tubing as the brazing is done;
> yours just has a little snap that, out of the jig, it's a hair tighter.
> It's not a problem.You won't damage the frame putting a hub in there.
> Given the length of the stays, to move out by less than 2mm each side over
> that length, is not bending them much at all;  that's why it snaps back,
> you're not bending it enough to pass the elastic point of the metal.
>
> Please, call Rivendell if you want;  get it straight from G, it's okay.

I won't file it.  But you're not listening.  It is not okay.  I can't
even get the wheel in by putting my weight on the bike.  In order to
apply enough force to get it in there, I am likely to hurt myself
and/or drop the bike.  It's not about damaging the dropouts.

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Re: [RBW] Re: First-time bicycle assembly advice

2012-09-19 Thread Michael Richters
On Sat, Sep 15, 2012 at 11:37 AM, Peter Morgano  wrote:
> Any decent bike shop will have tools to spread it that small amount and
> realign dropouts. Cost me 40 bucks in nyc which is top of the market.

Sure, any decent bike shop might.  If only there were such a thing
anywhere near where I live...

I just called the two best bike shops in town, and one wouldn't give
me a price, the other said "50 bucks and up" for spreading the
dropouts.  This is making me rather unhappy.

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[RBW] Re: What do you use for saddle/seatpost security on your Rivendell?

2012-09-19 Thread HKett
My personal system is a Kryptonite cable run through both the rear wheel 
and the saddle rails and then attached to a u-lock. This is if I am locking 
my bike up in the city, or leaving it somewhere for more than 15 minutes or 
so (I know a bike can be stolen in much less time, but if I'm only stopping 
briefly I don't bother with the extra locking procedure since it does take 
an extra minute or so to lock up the bike). I also use a spandex saddle 
cover to disguise my Brooks to look like an inexpensive plastic saddle at a 
quick glance.

I've eyed the Pitlock system for a locking seat post collar and will likely 
buy a set in the next weeks. Still, it leaves the saddle vulnerable at the 
saddle rail clamp. An approach of preventing the unauthorized loosening of 
the bolt is to fill the recessed hex of the allen bolt head with wax or 
glueing a ball bearing in it or something that is easy to remove with 
proper tools that you have at home, but that a potential saddle thief is 
unlikely to have on them. In the case of wax, a heat source, or the ball 
bearing a little pick tool. I think a solution that is likely as secure as 
blocking the bolt is to use an uncommon bolt type like security Torx (Torx 
bolt with pin in the middle), and this approach makes service easier. Some 
companies also sell steel bands or thin cables that are designed to mount 
permanently (like into a gap in the seatpost collar, through which a 
locking bolt secures the metal band). I don't like this solution so much as 
it is unaesthetic (a 3/4" wide steel band running the length of the 
seatpost, no thanks), prevents easy saddle height adjustment (unless you 
leave a lot of ugly looking slack in the cable), adds an extra step to the 
removal of the seatpost for servicing, and most importantly, I don't think 
a 1/8" thick steel cable provides much security as these can be cut with 
relatively small bolt cutters.

So while there is no way to lock the saddle and seatpost in a 100% secure 
manner, a locking seatpost collar and uncommon saddle rail clamp bolt would 
be my solution.

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[RBW] Re: Hey I know this guy. He built my wheels!

2012-09-19 Thread Chris Lampe
I noticed the video a couple of days ago when I ordered my front wheel.  
Very nice!
 

On Monday, September 17, 2012 9:17:43 PM UTC-5, Manuel Acosta wrote:

> Gah! So awesome! Thanks for Will for pointing this out. Amazing film by 
> Jay about Rich!
> http://vimeo.com/49212143
>
> SOO cool!
>

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[RBW] FS: Acorn L bag, Ergon pedals, Nitto Stuff, MKS pedals

2012-09-19 Thread Shifty
I acquired a second hand Smythe bag and am parting with my awesome Acorn 
bag as a result. It holds everything and then some more. All in excellent 
or mint condition except one of the Nitto handlebars that has scratches on 
the wrap area from frequent stem swaps. All prices include shipping to 48 
states. Will discount shipping for multiple parts to same address.

Acorn Large Saddlebag - less than one year old. $115. 
Ergon PC2 Pedals - 3 months old $60.
Nitto Technomic Deluxe - 100mm, unused, unopened package $60.
Nitto Santana Handlebars - 44cm width, selling as pair only. $65 for both 
or $75 with stoker pegs.
MKS Sylvan pedals - less than one year old, one scrape as shown. $30.

Photos here: http://www.flickr.com/photos/66219337@N06/

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[RBW] Rode Stevens Canyon

2012-09-19 Thread jimD
Took a nice ride up Stevens Canyon.

It felt very fall-like.  The new bridges that have been recently completed
change the 'riding in New Hampshire while actually in northern Calif.' vibe.
Hope the improved bridges don't attract more cars.

and per Manny, pictures prove it happened.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/rasterdogs/

-JimD

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[RBW] Grant in Chicago (Naperville) this Sunday

2012-09-19 Thread Eric Peterson
He will be at Anderson Books this Sunday, 11AM, followed by a bike ride:
http://www.andersonsbookshop.com/
This is in Naperville, 30 miles west of Chicago

Eric Peterson

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Re: [RBW] Nice Lugged frame on ebay

2012-09-19 Thread numbnuts
I had a P56 for a few years. It was one of the nicest frames I have ever 
ridden, and pretty too. I liked it better than my Rom. It was noticeably 
smoother. And the price seems very good.

Regards,
Chris
Redding, Ca.

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Re: [RBW] Re: What do you use for saddle/seatpost security on your Rivendell?

2012-09-19 Thread Ron Mc
I like the Abus 210 multi-loop cable lock.  Yes, my bike lives indoors, but 
many times out riding may want to stop somewhere and go inside.  It's a 
reasonable compromise between short-term security and weight.  

On Tuesday, September 18, 2012 12:54:10 PM UTC-5, Peter M wrote:
>
> I use these things called doors, I lock my bike behind them where bad 
> people cant reach them.  :) 
>
> On Tue, Sep 18, 2012 at 1:43 PM, Robert F. Harrison 
> 
> > wrote:
>
>> Not that I've noticed, but I haven't had it off since I put it on - well 
>> I do loosen it a wee bit every so often and turn the seat a bit to make 
>> sure the post hasn't welded to the frame. 
>>
>> To be honest though, even if it did a little damage I probably wouldn't 
>> worry much. I do enough damage to the finish everywhere else. I'm 
>> definitely not a pristine frame guy. I usually scrape something on my first 
>> ride on a new bike. 
>>
>> Aloha, 
>>
>> Bob
>>
>> On Tue, Sep 18, 2012 at 6:35 AM, lungimsam 
>> > wrote:
>>
>>> The pitlock bolt head doesn't go into the seatpost clamp recess for the 
 bolt head, I think, from a pic I have seen online.

>>>  
>>> Does it mar the finish when tightened onto the lug?
>>>  
>>>
>>> -- 
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>>
>>
>>
>> -- 
>> Robert Harrison
>> rfhar...@gmail.com 
>> statrix.com
>>
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>
>

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[RBW] Re: Hand Numbness, an observation

2012-09-19 Thread bwphoto
 A slight upward tilt of the saddle nose also takes pressure off both hands and 
shoulders that in combination with using the hoods more than the bar tops helps 
to straighten the nerve channel that runs trough your wrist. This has worked 
for me fot over 50 years.

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[RBW] Re: Rain Gear?

2012-09-19 Thread Nathan Lee
To add to this:
I have a Mission Workshop and have used it pretty successfully for 2 rainy 
seasons or so. Recently took it on a tour from SF to LA riding solo/ultra 
light/motel camping. I caught 1 day of 4 hours of rain and had no soak 
through. I was also much happier at times using the jacket as an extra 
layer - March riding was not the warmest along the coast and some of the 
winds were chilling. I got into a really fantastic habit of unzipping the 
jacket while riding uphill, pausing at the top for a few seconds to zip up 
the vents for extra aero-ness and descending down.

A few things to note:
The jacket is NOT MUSA. It is however, Canadian made, and in the old 
Arc'Teryx factory which I've heard, doesn't see much Arc'Teryx gear 
nowadays (as with many companies, they shifted production to China). The 
finishing/detailing is fantastic on the jacket - it is both sewn then seam 
taped. The material is some rather costly stuff, Schoeller C_Change, which 
is marketed wind/waterproof and is a semi permeable membrane that opens its 
pores to regulate temperature (i.e. if it's cold inside the jacket, it'll 
close the pores, if it's warm, then it'll open up the pores.) The jacket 
doesn't seem to bead off water as easily as it used to, however it doesn't 
soak through at all (and it dries at a decently fast rate.)

High high marks for this jacket - wear it on a day to day basis for my city 
commute and am more than happy to throw it in my handlebar bag for long 
rainy rides. Wish it packed down smaller, but most ultralight/rain jackets 
don't have the breathability/vent zips I need to be comfortable anyway.

Another jacket + pants system I'd recommend checking out is Cadence 
Cycling's collaboration with 686. They did a pretty fantastic job thinking 
about a cyclists' needs and how to design some great gear. I was VERY close 
to buying one but opted to just stick with my MW jacket:
http://cadencecollection.myshopify.com/collections/products/products/barrier-jacket



On Saturday, September 15, 2012 5:04:36 AM UTC-7, Matthew J wrote:
>
> Mission Work shop makes a very nice if expensive rain jacket.  The regular 
> is very light.  They make one ultra-light for extra dollars.  The jacket is 
> made out of a water proof fabric that moves well with the body.  Three 
> pockets in front, one well hidden pocket inback.  It has vent zips. 
>  MUSAtoo.

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[RBW] Re: Hey I know this guy. He built my wheels!

2012-09-19 Thread Dave

Definitely intrigued by all the wheel choices , and welcome any good 
educational resources you may have.  I'm interested in a dyno hub wheel for a 
general commuting, around town, weekend ride kind of thing.   Bianchi volpe all 
riv'd out.   Live in the bay area and would love to give business locally.  How 
much should I be budgeting?  I don't need the world's best...

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[RBW] FS: Berthoud steel fenders

2012-09-19 Thread john
I bought 60mm Berthoud stainless steel fenders a year or so ago for my Sam 
Hillborne. They fit (barely) between my fork blades and chainstays, but I 
disapprove of the look - they are a bit too wide for this bike, at least to 
my taste. Optimally, I'd probably need the 50 mm version.

However, the fenders would be perfect for a 700C fat tire bike, like a 
Hunqa, Atlantis, Bomba...or even someone who has a Hillborne and doesn't 
mind the extra fat look of the fender.

At any rate, as the picture shows, I bent the front fender at the fork 
crown to get the fender in. Easily bent back out, if desired - though not 
necessary. These fenders have all the original hardware: leather washers, 
daruma bolt for under the fork crown, etc. bought them from peter White 
cycles. Take a look at his website if you're interested.

$50 shipped. Pay pal please. 

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[RBW] Re: Hey I know this guy. He built my wheels!

2012-09-19 Thread Dave
Cool video and seemingly fantastic products.  Any good resources out there 
to learn more about rim and hub choices?  I'm interested in upgrading my 
wheel set to something with a dyno hub, and living in the bay area it seems 
like an easy decision to buy locally as well.  I ride a (riv'd out) bianchi 
volpe and use it for commuting, around-town, and weekend casual rides. 
 Racks on front and back, so carry some weightin addition to myself :)

What budget should I start saving?

On Tuesday, September 18, 2012 4:35:42 PM UTC-7, RJM wrote:
>
> Well, I tell ya. I have two sets of wheels built by Rich and both are 
> great. My favorite set is a pair of Velocity Dyad hoops laced to Phil Rivy 
> hubs. That set absolutely rocks, I can't complain at all about them. 
>  
> Thanks for sharing this!
>  
>
> On Monday, September 17, 2012 9:17:43 PM UTC-5, Manuel Acosta wrote:
>
>> Gah! So awesome! Thanks for Will for pointing this out. Amazing film by 
>> Jay about Rich! 
>> http://vimeo.com/49212143
>>
>> SOO cool!
>>
>

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[RBW] Grant Peterson (Rivendell) book event + ride! 9/23 ~ Naperville, IL

2012-09-19 Thread Eric
Sunday the 23rd in Naperville!

GRANT PETERSON

We’re wheely happy to present Grant Petersen, who visits with his
practical guide to riding your bike. In Just Ride, Petersen celebrates
the pure joy of riding. Simple, safe and fun-for-all is his theme.
Come meet the author, and follow the event with a group ride, headed
by the author himself!

SUNDAY, SEPTEMBER 23 at 11:00 a.m.
Anderson's Bookshop Naperville
Location:

Anderson's Bookshop Naperville
123 W Jefferson Ave
Naperville,
Illinois
60540

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Re: [RBW] Re: Hand Numbness, an observation

2012-09-19 Thread Joe Broach
On Wed, Sep 19, 2012 at 1:39 PM, pb  wrote:
>
> FWIW, I get less hand numbness when riding without gloves than with.  I
> don't like that fact, because I went down hard without gloves once.  Palms
> take a long time to heal.

I've had the same experience--comfier without, except when I crash. I
ride mostly without (in warm season) but maybe should look for
something non-padded. Winter gloves are better but still bother my
hands.

Best,
joe broach
portland, or

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[RBW] Re: Hand Numbness, an observation

2012-09-19 Thread pb
 
FWIW, I get less hand numbness when riding without gloves than with.  I 
don't like that fact, because I went down hard without gloves once.  Palms 
take a long time to heal.  
 
I just picked up a pair of the Specialized "74" gloves, which are made 
of thin, unpadded leather.  Haven't ridden with them yet, but I'm hoping 
that the lack of padding will give me the same result as riding without.
 
~pb

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[RBW] Re: Nice Lugged frame on ebay

2012-09-19 Thread Montclair BobbyB
That was a Model P (Kogswell historians, please keep me honest).  I rode a 
Kogswell P/R (Porteur/Randonneur designed by Jan Heine) for about a year or 
so.  Mine was part of the "Gen 2" production run, which used slightly 
thinner tubing than the "Gen 1" P/R.  Mine had a very cushy and compliant 
ride and I really loved the feel of it... although in the end I realized it 
was just too compliant (flexy).  It would shimmy under minor load, even at 
low speeds.  Apparently this issue was reported by other Gen 2 P/R owners. 
 I had the pleasure of riding Steve Palincsar's Gen 1 Kogs at Riv Rally 
East this year.  Beautiful feel to it, and no shimmy.

Matthew Grimm was the founder of Kogswell, and I always enjoyed talking to 
him.  He took the time to listen to his customers, he had a very positive 
vibe, and really seemed to enjoy what he was doing in creating Kogswell; 
too bad Kogswell is no longer in business (hopefully just laying dormant). 
 I hope Matthew will return to the bicycling industry (Matthew, if you're 
out there reading this...)

The gent I sold mine to (who lives on the FL panhandle) was still raving 
about this bike a year after I sold it to him... It apparently had found 
its rightful owner.

BB

On Wednesday, September 19, 2012 12:43:09 PM UTC-4, hobie wrote:
>
> How do they handle or ride?
> On Wednesday, September 19, 2012 12:24:46 PM UTC-4, Jim Thill - Hiawatha 
> Cyclery wrote:
>>
>> Maybe 6 or 7 years ago, Matthew from Kogswell gave me one of these in the 
>> same size for free. I think the MSRP was $750 or $800 then, sort of a 
>> budget Rambouillet. It's not my size, but I hung it on the wall of my shop 
>> for a couple years. Finally I took it to a swap meet in Madison with every 
>> intention of selling it, even if the selling price was way low (since it 
>> was free for me...). I had one guy hovering over it for several hours. He 
>> offered $350. I said yes. He got nervous and retracted his offer. Later he 
>> came and offered $250. I told him that I didn't care for his price 
>> negotiation style, but that I would take $250 if he was serious this time. 
>> Then he got nervous again and started questioning why I'd sell it so cheap. 
>> I told the guy to eff off, and returned home with the frameset. I put it on 
>> ebay the next day and it went for close to $600. It's all about finding the 
>> right buyer. Kogswell has been out of biz for several years now, so 
>> whatever marketing they did back in the day has a limited effect now. I 
>> doubt there are many people actively looking for the older models of 
>> Kogswell.
>>
>> On Tuesday, September 18, 2012 8:32:57 AM UTC-5, hobie wrote:
>>>
>>> Cheap Kogswell frame on the bay.  
>>> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Kogswell-P62-Frame-/271062004651?pt=Road_Bikes&hash=item3f1c8df3ab
>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: Hand Numbness, an observation

2012-09-19 Thread Marc Irwin
I have experienced no,none, nada numbness on the Bosco Bars 
I 
use with stoker knobs.  I've had a problem with hand numbness on everything 
else for years.

Marc

On Tuesday, September 18, 2012 4:03:57 PM UTC-4, Mojo wrote:
>
> Recently over on the Surly Long Haul Trucker list, there was a thread on 
> bike setup and comfort. The original poster was complaining about hand 
> numbness and most folks wrote in with the advice to raise the bars and move 
> the saddle aft to take pressure off the hands. I didn't have any good 
> further advice for the OP. But I do have an associated observation. 
> After riding low-handlebar racing type bikes from 1976-2001, I have been 
> riding more Rivendell-influenced bikes ever since, with my handlebars very 
> near saddle height and saddle now set back 1-2cm behind KOPS. I have always 
> had very minor numb hand issues. I just usually shake them out and they are 
> fine for several more miles or even hours. But I have observed over the 
> last few years that my numb hands seem to occur most often when climbing, 
> less so riding the flats, and never descending. This observation seems to 
> run counter to the idea that it is the extra weight on the hands that 
> creates numbness. 
>  
> Again its just a minor problem for me. I nearly always wear gloves. My 
> bars are all thinly wrapped in cork/fake cork. My reach is fairly generous. 
> Now of course on a loop ride I will be spending much more time climbing 
> than descending and maybe the most amout of time overall riding on mostly 
> flat roads. But if the theory that more weight on the hands leads to 
> numbness, why am I not feeling it at the bottom of my descents instead of 
> on the climbs? I really don't even have an hypothesis at this point. 
> Thoughts? 
>

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[RBW] Re: Hand Numbness, an observation

2012-09-19 Thread Mojo
Interesting ideas Jim, thanks. Yes, I have been trying to climb at a higher 
rpm, more like 75-85 instead of 55-65. I will try one cog smaller on the 
next climb and see if it changes things. And related, this morning's dirt 
ride was most often grunting at rather low rpm up dirt climbs and no hand 
numbness then.
 
Another data point, all of my drop bars are now Nitto Noodles, 44 or 46cm. 
 
And if anyone wants some used 26.0 handlebars for cheap, let me know: 
2 Nitto Dream Bars 44cm, 
2 Nitto 115 (38top/45drop wide), 
a creaky 46cm Nitto Noodle, 
Cinelli Campione del Mundo 44cm; 
or 26.0 stems: 
Technomic long 19cm quill 11cm extension, 
Cinelli 1A rare 14cm extension
 

On Wednesday, September 19, 2012 11:39:38 AM UTC-6, Jim Thill - Hiawatha 
Cyclery wrote:

> I also experience most or my hand and crotch discomfort/numbness on 
> prolonged climbs, with various bars.
>
> A number of years ago, I built up my first fixed gear. I intended to ride 
> off-road on it, so I geared it pretty low, like 50 inches. I had a heckuva 
> time riding that bike without hand (and butt) numbness and discomfort, even 
> after various riser stems/bars were installed, and I'd screwed around with 
> saddle position. Nothing seemed to work. Then one of my friends invited me 
> on a more road-oriented ride, and I knew I'd need a taller gear to keep up. 
> I screwed on a smaller cog, which geared me up to maybe 65 inches. 
> Suddenly, and with no other changes, the bike became amazingly comfortable. 
> I attributed this to the weight offset of simply pressing harder on the 
> pedals. Later I did back to back centuries on that bike, and lots of 
> commuting, with no comfort issues. I also experimented with different stems 
> and bars and positions, and all worked great with the slightly higher 
> gearing.
>
> To bring this back to the topic at hand, perhaps having LOW gears on your 
> bike allows you to spin too easily up hills. If your knees allow it, try to 
> pedal a somewhat higher gear when climbing to see if that keeps the 
> numbness away.
>
> Or consider a quote attributed to GP:
> “On steep hills, you have to get off. This is good for you. Rather than 
> grunt like an overgeared fool, you get off and hoof it. It’s almost, but 
> not exactly, like being a duathlete!”
>
>
>
>
> On Wednesday, September 19, 2012 12:26:51 PM UTC-5, Mojo wrote:
>>
>> Thanks for the replies guys. So this is an observation unique to me, not 
>> others?
>>  
>> My saddle position is now fixed after years of experimentation, and then 
>> stems/bars adjusted to that. So I am not moving the saddle. 
>>  
>> I typically climb on the ramps or hoods but at times in the drops (one of 
>> the revelations of higher bars- climbing in the hooks!). I climb out the 
>> saddle - 10-20% of the time. Descent hand positions are similarly varied, 
>> most often on the hoods. I don't think I grip the bars differently when I 
>> climb unless its a super hard, short effort. 
>>  
>> I just went for a nice dirt ride with my son on flat bar fat bikes with 
>> plenty of climbing. No hand numbness noted. Hmmm
>>
>

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RE: [RBW] Re: Hey I know this guy. He built my wheels!

2012-09-19 Thread Allingham II, Thomas J
That's a great post, Jim; you are justifiably proud!  Even for those of us just 
starting out on wheelbuilding, it is a great source of pride to see and use 
wheels you built yourself.


From: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com 
[mailto:rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Jim Thill - Hiawatha 
Cyclery
Sent: Wednesday, September 19, 2012 1:57 PM
To: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
Subject: [RBW] Re: Hey I know this guy. He built my wheels!

I probably don't build as many wheels as Rich, but I have built at least 2000 
of them in the past 7 years or so. Very often, when I ride with a group of 8 or 
10 friends, I realize that most or all of the group is rolling on "my" wheels. 
I feel proud of my work when I see that. Likewise, I'm sure Rich feels proud of 
his work when reading threads like this.

On Tuesday, September 18, 2012 6:35:42 PM UTC-5, RJM wrote:
Well, I tell ya. I have two sets of wheels built by Rich and both are great. My 
favorite set is a pair of Velocity Dyad hoops laced to Phil Rivy hubs. That set 
absolutely rocks, I can't complain at all about them.

Thanks for sharing this!


On Monday, September 17, 2012 9:17:43 PM UTC-5, Manuel Acosta wrote:
Gah! So awesome! Thanks for Will for pointing this out. Amazing film by Jay 
about Rich!
http://vimeo.com/49212143

SOO cool!

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[RBW] Re: Hey I know this guy. He built my wheels!

2012-09-19 Thread Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery
I probably don't build as many wheels as Rich, but I have built at least 
2000 of them in the past 7 years or so. Very often, when I ride with a 
group of 8 or 10 friends, I realize that most or all of the group is 
rolling on "my" wheels. I feel proud of my work when I see that. Likewise, 
I'm sure Rich feels proud of his work when reading threads like this.

On Tuesday, September 18, 2012 6:35:42 PM UTC-5, RJM wrote:
>
> Well, I tell ya. I have two sets of wheels built by Rich and both are 
> great. My favorite set is a pair of Velocity Dyad hoops laced to Phil Rivy 
> hubs. That set absolutely rocks, I can't complain at all about them. 
>  
> Thanks for sharing this!
>  
>
> On Monday, September 17, 2012 9:17:43 PM UTC-5, Manuel Acosta wrote:
>
>> Gah! So awesome! Thanks for Will for pointing this out. Amazing film by 
>> Jay about Rich! 
>> http://vimeo.com/49212143
>>
>> SOO cool!
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: Nice Lugged frame on ebay

2012-09-19 Thread Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery
I've never ridden one. I doubt that very many actually exist. At the time, 
Kogswell had numerous models listed, none of which seemed to actually be 
obtainable. I would guess that he had maybe 50 or 100 of each model, 
distributed across various sizes, before he moved on to the next model 
(i.e. the P/R). Perhaps Matthew reads this list and will chime in to add 
his much more credible input.

On Wednesday, September 19, 2012 11:43:09 AM UTC-5, hobie wrote:
>
> How do they handle or ride?
> On Wednesday, September 19, 2012 12:24:46 PM UTC-4, Jim Thill - Hiawatha 
> Cyclery wrote:
>>
>> Maybe 6 or 7 years ago, Matthew from Kogswell gave me one of these in the 
>> same size for free. I think the MSRP was $750 or $800 then, sort of a 
>> budget Rambouillet. It's not my size, but I hung it on the wall of my shop 
>> for a couple years. Finally I took it to a swap meet in Madison with every 
>> intention of selling it, even if the selling price was way low (since it 
>> was free for me...). I had one guy hovering over it for several hours. He 
>> offered $350. I said yes. He got nervous and retracted his offer. Later he 
>> came and offered $250. I told him that I didn't care for his price 
>> negotiation style, but that I would take $250 if he was serious this time. 
>> Then he got nervous again and started questioning why I'd sell it so cheap. 
>> I told the guy to eff off, and returned home with the frameset. I put it on 
>> ebay the next day and it went for close to $600. It's all about finding the 
>> right buyer. Kogswell has been out of biz for several years now, so 
>> whatever marketing they did back in the day has a limited effect now. I 
>> doubt there are many people actively looking for the older models of 
>> Kogswell.
>>
>> On Tuesday, September 18, 2012 8:32:57 AM UTC-5, hobie wrote:
>>>
>>> Cheap Kogswell frame on the bay.  
>>> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Kogswell-P62-Frame-/271062004651?pt=Road_Bikes&hash=item3f1c8df3ab
>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: Hand Numbness, an observation

2012-09-19 Thread Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery
I also experience most or my hand and crotch discomfort/numbness on 
prolonged climbs, with various bars.

A number of years ago, I built up my first fixed gear. I intended to ride 
off-road on it, so I geared it pretty low, like 50 inches. I had a heckuva 
time riding that bike without hand (and butt) numbness and discomfort, even 
after various riser stems/bars were installed, and I'd screwed around with 
saddle position. Nothing seemed to work. Then one of my friends invited me 
on a more road-oriented ride, and I knew I'd need a taller gear to keep up. 
I screwed on a smaller cog, which geared me up to maybe 65 inches. 
Suddenly, and with no other changes, the bike became amazingly comfortable. 
I attributed this to the weight offset of simply pressing harder on the 
pedals. Later I did back to back centuries on that bike, and lots of 
commuting, with no comfort issues. I also experimented with different stems 
and bars and positions, and all worked great with the slightly higher 
gearing.

To bring this back to the topic at hand, perhaps having LOW gears on your 
bike allows you to spin too easily up hills. If your knees allow it, try to 
pedal a somewhat higher gear when climbing to see if that keeps the 
numbness away.

Or consider a quote attributed to GP:
“On steep hills, you have to get off. This is good for you. Rather than 
grunt like an overgeared fool, you get off and hoof it. It’s almost, but 
not exactly, like being a duathlete!”




On Wednesday, September 19, 2012 12:26:51 PM UTC-5, Mojo wrote:
>
> Thanks for the replies guys. So this is an observation unique to me, not 
> others?
>  
> My saddle position is now fixed after years of experimentation, and then 
> stems/bars adjusted to that. So I am not moving the saddle. 
>  
> I typically climb on the ramps or hoods but at times in the drops (one of 
> the revelations of higher bars- climbing in the hooks!). I climb out the 
> saddle - 10-20% of the time. Descent hand positions are similarly varied, 
> most often on the hoods. I don't think I grip the bars differently when I 
> climb unless its a super hard, short effort. 
>  
> I just went for a nice dirt ride with my son on flat bar fat bikes with 
> plenty of climbing. No hand numbness noted. Hmmm
>

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[RBW] Re: Hand Numbness, an observation

2012-09-19 Thread Mojo
Thanks for the replies guys. So this is an observation unique to me, not 
others?
 
My saddle position is now fixed after years of experimentation, and then 
stems/bars adjusted to that. So I am not moving the saddle. 
 
I typically climb on the ramps or hoods but at times in the drops (one of 
the revelations of higher bars- climbing in the hooks!). I climb out the 
saddle - 10-20% of the time. Descent hand positions are similarly varied, 
most often on the hoods. I don't think I grip the bars differently when I 
climb unless its a super hard, short effort. 
 
I just went for a nice dirt ride with my son on flat bar fat bikes with 
plenty of climbing. No hand numbness noted. Hmmm

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[RBW] Re: Nice Lugged frame on ebay

2012-09-19 Thread hobie
How do they handle or ride?
On Wednesday, September 19, 2012 12:24:46 PM UTC-4, Jim Thill - Hiawatha 
Cyclery wrote:
>
> Maybe 6 or 7 years ago, Matthew from Kogswell gave me one of these in the 
> same size for free. I think the MSRP was $750 or $800 then, sort of a 
> budget Rambouillet. It's not my size, but I hung it on the wall of my shop 
> for a couple years. Finally I took it to a swap meet in Madison with every 
> intention of selling it, even if the selling price was way low (since it 
> was free for me...). I had one guy hovering over it for several hours. He 
> offered $350. I said yes. He got nervous and retracted his offer. Later he 
> came and offered $250. I told him that I didn't care for his price 
> negotiation style, but that I would take $250 if he was serious this time. 
> Then he got nervous again and started questioning why I'd sell it so cheap. 
> I told the guy to eff off, and returned home with the frameset. I put it on 
> ebay the next day and it went for close to $600. It's all about finding the 
> right buyer. Kogswell has been out of biz for several years now, so 
> whatever marketing they did back in the day has a limited effect now. I 
> doubt there are many people actively looking for the older models of 
> Kogswell.
>
> On Tuesday, September 18, 2012 8:32:57 AM UTC-5, hobie wrote:
>>
>> Cheap Kogswell frame on the bay.  
>> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Kogswell-P62-Frame-/271062004651?pt=Road_Bikes&hash=item3f1c8df3ab
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Nice Lugged frame on ebay

2012-09-19 Thread Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery
Maybe 6 or 7 years ago, Matthew from Kogswell gave me one of these in the 
same size for free. I think the MSRP was $750 or $800 then, sort of a 
budget Rambouillet. It's not my size, but I hung it on the wall of my shop 
for a couple years. Finally I took it to a swap meet in Madison with every 
intention of selling it, even if the selling price was way low (since it 
was free for me...). I had one guy hovering over it for several hours. He 
offered $350. I said yes. He got nervous and retracted his offer. Later he 
came and offered $250. I told him that I didn't care for his price 
negotiation style, but that I would take $250 if he was serious this time. 
Then he got nervous again and started questioning why I'd sell it so cheap. 
I told the guy to eff off, and returned home with the frameset. I put it on 
ebay the next day and it went for close to $600. It's all about finding the 
right buyer. Kogswell has been out of biz for several years now, so 
whatever marketing they did back in the day has a limited effect now. I 
doubt there are many people actively looking for the older models of 
Kogswell.

On Tuesday, September 18, 2012 8:32:57 AM UTC-5, hobie wrote:
>
> Cheap Kogswell frame on the bay.  
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Kogswell-P62-Frame-/271062004651?pt=Road_Bikes&hash=item3f1c8df3ab

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[RBW] Re: Rain Gear?

2012-09-19 Thread pam
I like the 02 jacket.  I like the one with the hood.  My old one got stolen 
out of my pannier then I got a North Face jacket with DWR but I sweat too 
much and I'm just wet from the inside even with pit zips.  Now I'm going to 
wear my husband's 02 jacket.  Light, cheap and it works.  

On Thursday, September 13, 2012 2:55:57 PM UTC-4, tragicallyaverage wrote:
>
> As the rainy season approaches, I've been motivated to keep myself dry. My 
> former method of riding in the rain was to ride a fendered bike, and then 
> simply get soaked on my commutes. 
> I'd like to attempt to stay as dry and comfy as the fall season 
> approaches. Any suggestions or products that have worked well for anyone?
>

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[RBW] Re: What do you use for saddle/seatpost security on your Rivendell?

2012-09-19 Thread pam
I use an old Gap bag with the drawstring.  I pull the string taut so that 
it doesn't fly off - which is why I don't use old grocery bag.  I 
intentionally do not want to look like I have a great saddle and buy a 
saddle cover.  I think the thief will go to the bike with the nice saddle 
cover.  And won't take the time to remove my bag to see.  I have a friend 
who has a steel cable that goes through the saddle and is looped around the 
rear rack and bolted on.  My way is lighter and more of a deterrent.

On Tuesday, September 18, 2012 12:56:01 AM UTC-4, lungimsam wrote:
>
>  
>  
> I was wondering what you all use to secure the seatpost and saddle on your 
> bike from theft?
> I appreciate any siggestions. Thanks.
>

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