Re: [RBW] FS: Waxed Canvas Bags.

2014-07-23 Thread Chris Chen
No dude, please share.

Bags look nice!


On Tue, Jul 22, 2014 at 8:05 PM, David Banzer daban...@gmail.com wrote:

 Excuse me if this is frowned upon here, just shamelessly plugging my small
 hobby of bagmaking.

 I am finishing up a batch of saddle wedges and rackless front bags.
 Info here: treetop.bigcartel.com

 Any questions you may have? Please contact me offlist. Direct email is
 treetopb...@gmail.com.

 Riv content: started making these bags for my Redwood, which is featured
 in some bag photos.
 Thanks,
 David
 Chicago

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[RBW] Re: FS: Waxed Canvas Bags.

2014-07-23 Thread Michael Hechmer
Tell us more about the size of a medium saddle bag; I never trust 
adjectives.
Michael

On Tuesday, July 22, 2014 11:05:43 PM UTC-4, David Banzer wrote:

 Excuse me if this is frowned upon here, just shamelessly plugging my small 
 hobby of bagmaking.

 I am finishing up a batch of saddle wedges and rackless front bags.
 Info here: treetop.bigcartel.com

 Any questions you may have? Please contact me offlist. Direct email is 
 treet...@gmail.com javascript:.

 Riv content: started making these bags for my Redwood, which is featured 
 in some bag photos.
 Thanks,
 David
 Chicago


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[RBW] Re: Just fixed, or new bike day? - either way, thanks to the nice Riv folks

2014-07-23 Thread Michael Hechmer
Glad your story had such a happy ending, although it seems to have been a 
big disruption.  

Sometimes I get on my 2006 Rambouillet, after I haven't ridden it for 
awhile,  and it feels like a new bike day; and after all the work you did I 
definitely recommend luxuriating in a new bike experience.

BTW, it looks like your ridding buddy is getting too big for his ride, but 
probably not quite big enough for a tag along.

Michael

On Monday, July 21, 2014 4:24:43 PM UTC-4, John Stowe wrote:

 Back in May I was on a group ride with my toddler in the front seat of 
 our Sam Hillborne when I got my first flat ever for that bike. Probably 
 approaching 2000 miles on it, so not too bad, I thought. Walk to a bench, 
 snack and sippy cup for the kid, get out the patch kit. As I pulled the 
 frame pump out from between the double top tubes, though, I noticed a 
 suspiciously rust-looking discoloration along the lug attaching the lower 
 top tube to the seat tube. I'm perfectly comfortable doing my own 
 maintenance, but frame issues are definitely above my pay grade - 
 assuming that 1 1/2 top tubes would still be pretty good, I rode straight 
 home and then the next day I took it by my LBS for diagnosis.

 I was hoping maybe there was just a gap in the paint that allowed water 
 and then rust in, but the shop owner knew better what to look for and 
 showed me that there actually was a crack, about halfway around the joint 
 between the lug and the seat tube. Hard to say how long it was there, or 
 took to develop - It was on the side I lean against the wall when I park 
 it, and opposite the side I usually mount from, so it's not an area I 
 looked at much. So it turns out the flat was a good thing. Once we got it 
 cleaned up, I was able to get an OK picture or two (the little tab on the 
 right is bent out a bit because we were picking at it trying to decide if 
 it was a paint chip or metal).


 https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-jyhjNqQpbFk/U81oZFxg80I/Bcg/M7i258IK7YY/s1600/DSC_0306.jpg
 I got the frame secondhand, so Rivendell had no particular obligation to 
 me (I was concerned about spending that much on a frame at the time, so 
 saving a couple hundred bucks helped make my decision to get a Riv), but I 
 figured I'd give them a call for advice on how to go about getting my frame 
 repaired. Keven told me that while it could be repaired, they were curious 
 to know how/why it failed, and would like for it to go back to the factory 
 for inspection. I'm on the large side at 220ish lb., and I do carry the 
 baby and/or groceries on occasion, but most of my riding is relatively 
 low-stress city riding and commuting, so overall I probably cause much less 
 stress than the other bikes on this list that get to go on off-road 
 adventures/Jamborees/Entmoots/S24Os on a regular basis happily endure. 
 Plus, it had fairly low mileage compared to a typical steel frame's 
 lifetime (it was secondhand, but unbuilt/ridden before me).

 Keven worked with me on a much-more-than-fair deal to swap the frame for a 
 new one, which with the recent sizing change durned out to be a better fit 
 for me - I was between the 56cm and 60cm in the old lineup, so the new 58cm 
 is right on the money. The new frame was on its way to me within a week, 
 and the next weekend I swapped out the parts and sent the cracked frame 
 back in the same box. Aside from the bare cable runs being ever-so-slightly 
 longer, it was a pretty smooth process. The teardown was a lot quicker than 
 the buildup, as expected. I figured I'd put my GoPro (sadly, having such 
 things appears to be necessary with so many grumpy drivers around) on the 
 ceiling fan and see what the top of my head looks like when I'm working on 
 my bikes:

 http://youtu.be/EgTIcVUVnkA

 It's been a while now, but I still want to publicly thank Keven/Riv for 
 going much farther than necessary to make sure I was back on a complete, 
 non-broken Rivendell when there was really no obligation to help me at all. 

 My question for the group is: did I get a second new bike day, or just a 
 fixed bike day? There wasn't a dramatic change in feel between the old 
 and new bikes, though I'd say my position did feel slightly more sensible - 
 which I guess is a sign of a closer fit between the frame and rider size. 
 Regardless, my co-pilot and I have been enjoying the new 58cm frame this 
 summer (This picture also should answer the question: what good are those 
 giant Bosco Bullmoose bars, really? Getting around babies with giant heads, 
 of course!):


 https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-SzummpC179E/U81uEahzALI/Bcw/PYE4LnUrm0w/s1600/IMG_2496.jpg
 Two thoughts on shifting since moving to the new frame: 

 1. I had a bear of a time getting the front derailleur to shift properly 
 when I swapped frames, especially into the smallest chainring (of a Sugino 
 triple). I was using what I think is the same low-profile Shimano MTB 
 derailleur that Riv sells, but I just 

Re: [RBW] Re: Not my day

2014-07-23 Thread Michael Hechmer
Sounds like you were lucky not to go over the HBs!  I have found attaching 
fenders with an L clamp onto the brake bolt to be better than the hanging 
bolts.  More support and less real estate under the fork.  Happy trails.

Michael 

On Wednesday, July 23, 2014 12:22:49 AM UTC-4, Tony DeFilippo wrote:

 Funny how these things come in groups... Glad you made it safely. I get 
 alot of satisfaction from being able to diagnose and fix or at least manage 
 issues.

 Speaking of issues, My commute home was a bit if a mess to.  I dropped a 
 full 'water bottle if the immortals' from Riv at saddle height and the 
 mouth piece knocked off cleanly... Shattered right out if the bottle.  Bad 
 luck I thought, at least I was departing work for a week of vacation 
 though...

  100 yards away from my bike rack my while front end shuddered, snapped 
 and I skidded to a halt. The Berthoud front rack of my Saluki and the front 
 fender both were hanging forward on the wheel.  The fork crown bolt somehow 
 came loose catastrophically ( check your bolts!!)

 The fender was pretty crunched, the fork crown plate
 L plate shared off.  But I managed to find the offending bolt in the 
 street.  I got the fender removed, stowed in my saddlebag and the 
 rack/basket remounted.

 I'm not a big fan of the open bottom Berthoud brwcket for this particular 
 application... So I learned something about my bike and made it home safely.

 Tony



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Re: [RBW] Re: Not my day

2014-07-23 Thread Steve Palincsar


Tony DeFilippo vpi...@gmail.com wrote:

Funny how these things come in groups... Glad you made it safely. I get
alot of satisfaction from being able to diagnose and fix or at least
manage issues.

Speaking of issues, My commute home was a bit if a mess to.  I dropped
a full 'water bottle if the immortals' from Riv at saddle height and
the mouth piece knocked off cleanly... Shattered right out if the
bottle.  Bad luck I thought, at least I was departing work for a week
of vacation though...

100 yards away from my bike rack my while front end shuddered, snapped
and I skidded to a halt. The Berthoud front rack of my Saluki and the
front fender both were hanging forward on the wheel.  The fork crown
bolt somehow came loose catastrophically ( check your bolts!!)

The fender was pretty crunched, the fork crown plate
L plate shared off.  But I managed to find the offending bolt in the
street.  I got the fender removed, stowed in my saddlebag and the
rack/basket remounted.

I'm not a big fan of the open bottom Berthoud brwcket for this
particular application... So I learned something about my bike and made
it home safely.

Tony

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[RBW] Re: Front derailer forever overshifting - need help.

2014-07-23 Thread Michael Hechmer
I use that campy FD on all my bikes, except the tandem which has a campy 
SR.  I find they shift superbly.  I would be very reluctant to bend one, 
since they don't make them any more..

When you wrote that you were at the limit of the set screw I wondered about 
the chain line and if the BB was too long, but then you added that you 
sometimes have trouble lifting the chain up to the big ring, and dropping 
the chain below the small ring.  Starting over from scratch is probably a 
good idea but here are some of the things I've done over the years that 
have improved front end shifting.  

Make sure the chain isn't too long.  The shortest workable chain and the 
shortest workable rear cage seems to produce the best front end shifting.

I now use a chain catcher  on all my bikes to prevent the chain from 
falling inside the inner ring.  I like the ones from Aceco, but there 
certainly are cheaper ones that work as well.  Sooner or later something 
will come just a bit out of alignment and trigger this kind of chain drop,

When replacing big rings I now insist on one with a post between the ring 
and arm for the same reason, because sooner or later a chain will jump 
across and fall onto the arm.  At least with a post, there is no chance of 
wrapping the chain.

New rings shift better than old rings; good rings shift better than budget 
rings; ramped and pinned rings shift better than plain rings.  I know some 
very smart people ( Grant Peterson, Jan Heine,  Peter White) think ramps 
do not help, but I disagree.  I wouldn't have thought so for my first 35 
years of cycling but then I bought a set of ramped TAs and thought OMG. The 
ramped White Ind rings on my Ram also shift superbly.  For the first two 
years of riding our tandem I had all the front end shifting issues you 
describe (plus not being able to drop the chain to the small ring), and 
noticed at tandem rallies that it seemed to be the most common problem 
among riders.  Then I did all of the above and have not missed a shift on 
the tandem since.

I suspect that the ramps simply encourage the chain to drop onto the ring 
when it may otherwise struggle to make good contact.

Lastly, I would try to have the conversation with Grant.  At least his 
thoughts on ST angle and front shifting would be good to know.

Michael

On Tuesday, July 22, 2014 11:13:40 AM UTC-4, Jim Bronson wrote:

 I have had my Rivendell for approximately 9 years now. During this time I 
 have continually had problems with overshifting of the front derailer.  
 This has continued through 4 different cranksets, two or three different 
 front derailers, different brands of chains, different casettes, different 
 LBSs tinkering with it and so forth.  Not to mention my own tinkering.  
 I've theorized that maybe the seat tube angle on my bike is different than 
 others due to the large size of my bike - 69cm, but I don't really know.

 I had given up on the problem and just rode the chain back on to the big 
 ring if it came off that way, or stopped and put it back on the granny if 
 it came off that way.

 I just recently as in last week switched to a Deore SGS derailer, so super 
 long cage.  With so much longer of a cage, it pulls the chain back a lot 
 father now when it comes off the big ring and I am afraid of something 
 catastrophic happening like the chain getting tangled up in the spokes.  So 
 there is a renewed urgency to do something about it.

 The current front derailer is a Campy Racing T, which from what I read on 
 the Internet is supposed to be good at shifting compact triples.  I am 
 currently running a Sugino XD600 46/36/26 crankset and also using Shimano 9 
 speed bar ends.  If it makes a difference.

 I read something on the 650B list about bending in the leading tip of the 
 outer plate to prevent overshifting.  I really don't want to trash a 
 perfectly good front derailer but I'd be willing to try it if there was a 
 reasonable expectation of it being successful.  To quote:

 On my last successful Ritchey crank build I used an NOS first generation 
 Shimano deer head with said alignment and the leading tip of the outer 
 plate bent in to better keep the 9spd chain from over shifting when coming 
 back up onto the big ring.

 Or is there a different derailer model I should be using?  I'm open to it.

 -- 
 Keep the metal side up and the rubber side down! 


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Re: [RBW] Re: Not my day

2014-07-23 Thread Tony DeFilippo
Definitely lucky... I was going slow which was the saving grace and oddly
enough the bike never lurched or came out from under me.

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[RBW] the new Suntour?

2014-07-23 Thread MobileBill
A recent post on a derailer hanger for Simple One referred to this site:

http://sunxcd.net/chaintug/

Ignore, for now, the hanger, and check out the rest of the products. Read 
the About section, and the company's mission. Did I miss a conversation 
about this? Is this the new component manufacturer that Grant hinted at a 
number of months ago?

(By the way, thanks to those who responded to my earlier post re: Hung or 
bomba. Just got back in town and reviewing...) 


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[RBW] Re: Front derailer forever overshifting - need help.

2014-07-23 Thread Andrew Marchant-Shapiro
I don't think the folks you cited think that ramps don't help; rather, that 
for doubles, not using indexed shifting, they help very little.  If you're 
running an STI triple, on the other hand, you essentially cast the chain 
into the wind and hope that the wind catches it--which is precisely what 
the pins and ramps do.  

I have definitely found pinned/ramped shifting to be quicker on a double, 
but it's only *marginally* faster.

OTOH, I had this kind of overshift problem for years with a Sugino XD2 
crank, original rings (48/36/24. iirc), 105 triple FD.  But it was only 
that bike...I never figured it out.  Presently (different bike) I'm running 
TA rings on a Sugino PX crank, 46/30, with an Ultegra double front 
derailer, and since I dialed it in (which also meant replacing the RD with 
a long-cage unit in this case) I haven't had a drop to the inside OR 
outside.  And once I got the limit screws set right,I could just slam it 
into big/small in front, which meant the chain never skated between rings.

On Wednesday, July 23, 2014 8:31:55 AM UTC-4, Michael Hechmer wrote:

 I use that campy FD on all my bikes, except the tandem which has a campy 
 SR.  I find they shift superbly.  I would be very reluctant to bend one, 
 since they don't make them any more..

 When you wrote that you were at the limit of the set screw I wondered 
 about the chain line and if the BB was too long, but then you added that 
 you sometimes have trouble lifting the chain up to the big ring, and 
 dropping the chain below the small ring.  Starting over from scratch is 
 probably a good idea but here are some of the things I've done over the 
 years that have improved front end shifting.  

 Make sure the chain isn't too long.  The shortest workable chain and the 
 shortest workable rear cage seems to produce the best front end shifting.

 I now use a chain catcher  on all my bikes to prevent the chain from 
 falling inside the inner ring.  I like the ones from Aceco, but there 
 certainly are cheaper ones that work as well.  Sooner or later something 
 will come just a bit out of alignment and trigger this kind of chain drop,

 When replacing big rings I now insist on one with a post between the ring 
 and arm for the same reason, because sooner or later a chain will jump 
 across and fall onto the arm.  At least with a post, there is no chance of 
 wrapping the chain.

 New rings shift better than old rings; good rings shift better than budget 
 rings; ramped and pinned rings shift better than plain rings.  I know some 
 very smart people ( Grant Peterson, Jan Heine,  Peter White) think ramps 
 do not help, but I disagree.  I wouldn't have thought so for my first 35 
 years of cycling but then I bought a set of ramped TAs and thought OMG. The 
 ramped White Ind rings on my Ram also shift superbly.  For the first two 
 years of riding our tandem I had all the front end shifting issues you 
 describe (plus not being able to drop the chain to the small ring), and 
 noticed at tandem rallies that it seemed to be the most common problem 
 among riders.  Then I did all of the above and have not missed a shift on 
 the tandem since.

 I suspect that the ramps simply encourage the chain to drop onto the ring 
 when it may otherwise struggle to make good contact.

 Lastly, I would try to have the conversation with Grant.  At least his 
 thoughts on ST angle and front shifting would be good to know.

 Michael

 On Tuesday, July 22, 2014 11:13:40 AM UTC-4, Jim Bronson wrote:

 I have had my Rivendell for approximately 9 years now. During this time I 
 have continually had problems with overshifting of the front derailer.  
 This has continued through 4 different cranksets, two or three different 
 front derailers, different brands of chains, different casettes, different 
 LBSs tinkering with it and so forth.  Not to mention my own tinkering.  
 I've theorized that maybe the seat tube angle on my bike is different than 
 others due to the large size of my bike - 69cm, but I don't really know.

 I had given up on the problem and just rode the chain back on to the big 
 ring if it came off that way, or stopped and put it back on the granny if 
 it came off that way.

 I just recently as in last week switched to a Deore SGS derailer, so 
 super long cage.  With so much longer of a cage, it pulls the chain back a 
 lot father now when it comes off the big ring and I am afraid of something 
 catastrophic happening like the chain getting tangled up in the spokes.  So 
 there is a renewed urgency to do something about it.

 The current front derailer is a Campy Racing T, which from what I read on 
 the Internet is supposed to be good at shifting compact triples.  I am 
 currently running a Sugino XD600 46/36/26 crankset and also using Shimano 9 
 speed bar ends.  If it makes a difference.

 I read something on the 650B list about bending in the leading tip of the 
 outer plate to prevent overshifting.  I really don't want to trash a 
 

Re: [RBW] Re: Front derailer forever overshifting - need help.

2014-07-23 Thread Jim Bronson
Michael,

Good thoughts.

It's not actually at the limit of the set screw, rather, the set screw is
in far enough that (ironically) it's quite difficult at times to shift into
the big ring.  At one point during my after-work ride yesterday, I was not
able to get it to climb into the big ring at all.  It was just grabbing at
the ramps but not jumping up.  Later I tried again and was able to shift
into the big ring without incident.  I tried to leave it in the big ring as
much as possible which is more doable with the 11-34 I recently installed.

I find that it's most likely to settle in under medium pedal pressure.  Too
light, and it doesn't climb at all, too heavy and it jumps right over.

But anyway I will start from scratch as soon as I get some time, which may
be after Saturday.  I have appointments the next three nights and then the
local RUSA group is doing an overnight 300K on Saturday night/Sunday
morning so I am loath go to messing with my front derailer the afternoon
before that.

If re-doing the set screws from scratch doesn't help I will try angling the
cage slightly, I'll come back and read the thread as to which way I am
supposed to angle it at that time.

I don't really relish the thought of bending the front derailer either,
since it seems to work well for other people.  However, if that is a viable
option I'd probably rather pay someone else to do it that has successfully
performed the modification before.

As for chains, with my old rear derailer I was shortening chains two links
out of the box when I installed them with the SRAM or KMC chains that I use
as they come with 116 links. With this new one and the 11-34 I left them
all on.  The front shifting is about the same either way.

I agree that nicer chainrings shift better in general, however, I had a TA
Carmina crankset installed before this and it overshifted with about the
same frequency.  Granted, it did shift better when it wasn't overshifting.
I could get shorter arms for the Carmina now that I have converted to 170mm
but I can get 3 complete XD600s for the cost of the 170 Carmina crankarms.

(yes I know, 170mm cranks seem incongrous with my height but I actually
like them plus there is a ground clearance issue with longer cranks with
the 650b conversion on my bike with 80mm BB drop)

Consulting with Rivendell is something I should do.  I don't probably think
that I would get Grant if I called on the phone, but I have talked to
several of the others before.  I'll be leaving for the Bay Area in a week
for 3CR and would like to visit the Rivendell World HQ anyway.  I have the
early part of the week before the ride available.



On Wed, Jul 23, 2014 at 7:31 AM, Michael Hechmer mhech...@gmail.com wrote:

 I use that campy FD on all my bikes, except the tandem which has a campy
 SR.  I find they shift superbly.  I would be very reluctant to bend one,
 since they don't make them any more..

 When you wrote that you were at the limit of the set screw I wondered
 about the chain line and if the BB was too long, but then you added that
 you sometimes have trouble lifting the chain up to the big ring, and
 dropping the chain below the small ring.  Starting over from scratch is
 probably a good idea but here are some of the things I've done over the
 years that have improved front end shifting.

 Make sure the chain isn't too long.  The shortest workable chain and the
 shortest workable rear cage seems to produce the best front end shifting.

 I now use a chain catcher  on all my bikes to prevent the chain from
 falling inside the inner ring.  I like the ones from Aceco, but there
 certainly are cheaper ones that work as well.  Sooner or later something
 will come just a bit out of alignment and trigger this kind of chain drop,

 When replacing big rings I now insist on one with a post between the ring
 and arm for the same reason, because sooner or later a chain will jump
 across and fall onto the arm.  At least with a post, there is no chance of
 wrapping the chain.

 New rings shift better than old rings; good rings shift better than budget
 rings; ramped and pinned rings shift better than plain rings.  I know some
 very smart people ( Grant Peterson, Jan Heine,  Peter White) think ramps
 do not help, but I disagree.  I wouldn't have thought so for my first 35
 years of cycling but then I bought a set of ramped TAs and thought OMG. The
 ramped White Ind rings on my Ram also shift superbly.  For the first two
 years of riding our tandem I had all the front end shifting issues you
 describe (plus not being able to drop the chain to the small ring), and
 noticed at tandem rallies that it seemed to be the most common problem
 among riders.  Then I did all of the above and have not missed a shift on
 the tandem since.

 I suspect that the ramps simply encourage the chain to drop onto the ring
 when it may otherwise struggle to make good contact.

 Lastly, I would try to have the conversation with Grant.  At least his
 thoughts on ST angle and 

[RBW] Re: the new Suntour?

2014-07-23 Thread M D Smith
The Exceed crank arms look very nice.  I particularly like the idea of an 
adapter to allow the use of 110/74 bcd chainrings.

I'm a big TA Cyclotouriste fan, particularly now that it's easier to source 
chainrings, but it would be nice to be able to use more normal rings.

Cheers- Mike in Htfd, CT


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[RBW] Re: the new Suntour?

2014-07-23 Thread MobileBill
See also the feature bike on their website ...

On Wednesday, July 23, 2014 8:02:23 AM UTC-5, MobileBill wrote:

 A recent post on a derailer hanger for Simple One referred to this site:

 http://sunxcd.net/chaintug/

 Ignore, for now, the hanger, and check out the rest of the products. Read 
 the About section, and the company's mission. Did I miss a conversation 
 about this? Is this the new component manufacturer that Grant hinted at a 
 number of months ago?

 (By the way, thanks to those who responded to my earlier post re: Hung or 
 bomba. Just got back in town and reviewing...) 




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[RBW] Re: the new Suntour?

2014-07-23 Thread Ron Mc
They are very nice.  
After a left arm broke, I replaced my cyclotouriste crank with an Exceed 
set.  Q is small, but the crank arms flare out nicely to give you a cozy 
balance.  

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v728/bulldog1935/Raleigh/700c/aaaP3150005.jpg

I ordered mine through a Japanese broker and saved only a few dollars over 
Jitensa, but $60 over Merry Sales price. 
 http://homepage1.nifty.com/ct-seizan/sub053.html
On Wednesday, July 23, 2014 8:57:28 AM UTC-5, M D Smith wrote:

 The Exceed crank arms look very nice.  I particularly like the idea of 
 an adapter to allow the use of 110/74 bcd chainrings.

 I'm a big TA Cyclotouriste fan, particularly now that it's easier to 
 source chainrings, but it would be nice to be able to use more normal 
 rings.

 Cheers- Mike in Htfd, CT




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[RBW] Re: the new Suntour?

2014-07-23 Thread MobileBill
Sorry, now that I have the right search terms in place, I see this was 
discussed back in April, and that this is somehow an extension of the 
microshift products once offered by Riv. To salvage this conversation, 
maybe I should ask if anyone knows much about what's happening with this 
company (and whether Riv plans to pick them up again).

On Wednesday, July 23, 2014 8:02:23 AM UTC-5, MobileBill wrote:

 A recent post on a derailer hanger for Simple One referred to this site:

 http://sunxcd.net/chaintug/

 Ignore, for now, the hanger, and check out the rest of the products. Read 
 the About section, and the company's mission. Did I miss a conversation 
 about this? Is this the new component manufacturer that Grant hinted at a 
 number of months ago?

 (By the way, thanks to those who responded to my earlier post re: Hung or 
 bomba. Just got back in town and reviewing...) 




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[RBW] Re: the new Suntour?

2014-07-23 Thread Garth
This post may help :
https://groups.google.com/forum/#!topic/internet-bob/KiIRpteitHc

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Re: [RBW] Re: Front derailer forever overshifting - need help.

2014-07-23 Thread Jim Bronson
Yes strange on how certain problems particular to certain bikes.

I have an STI triple with a mix of 105 and Ultegra parts on my go-fast
bike, a Paul Taylor custom and it's always shifted superb in the front.  I
can only remember dropping the chain once ever, and that was when I shifted
both derailers at once, which I like to do when going from the big ring to
the little ring to better rev-match the chainring changes.  I just hit
both the little buttons at the same time and 99.999% of the time it works
fine.


On Wed, Jul 23, 2014 at 8:37 AM, Andrew Marchant-Shapiro 
marchantshap...@gmail.com wrote:

 I don't think the folks you cited think that ramps don't help; rather,
 that for doubles, not using indexed shifting, they help very little.  If
 you're running an STI triple, on the other hand, you essentially cast the
 chain into the wind and hope that the wind catches it--which is precisely
 what the pins and ramps do.

 I have definitely found pinned/ramped shifting to be quicker on a double,
 but it's only *marginally* faster.

 OTOH, I had this kind of overshift problem for years with a Sugino XD2
 crank, original rings (48/36/24. iirc), 105 triple FD.  But it was only
 that bike...I never figured it out.  Presently (different bike) I'm running
 TA rings on a Sugino PX crank, 46/30, with an Ultegra double front
 derailer, and since I dialed it in (which also meant replacing the RD with
 a long-cage unit in this case) I haven't had a drop to the inside OR
 outside.  And once I got the limit screws set right,I could just slam it
 into big/small in front, which meant the chain never skated between rings.


 On Wednesday, July 23, 2014 8:31:55 AM UTC-4, Michael Hechmer wrote:

 I use that campy FD on all my bikes, except the tandem which has a campy
 SR.  I find they shift superbly.  I would be very reluctant to bend one,
 since they don't make them any more..

 When you wrote that you were at the limit of the set screw I wondered
 about the chain line and if the BB was too long, but then you added that
 you sometimes have trouble lifting the chain up to the big ring, and
 dropping the chain below the small ring.  Starting over from scratch is
 probably a good idea but here are some of the things I've done over the
 years that have improved front end shifting.

 Make sure the chain isn't too long.  The shortest workable chain and the
 shortest workable rear cage seems to produce the best front end shifting.

 I now use a chain catcher  on all my bikes to prevent the chain from
 falling inside the inner ring.  I like the ones from Aceco, but there
 certainly are cheaper ones that work as well.  Sooner or later something
 will come just a bit out of alignment and trigger this kind of chain drop,

 When replacing big rings I now insist on one with a post between the ring
 and arm for the same reason, because sooner or later a chain will jump
 across and fall onto the arm.  At least with a post, there is no chance of
 wrapping the chain.

 New rings shift better than old rings; good rings shift better than
 budget rings; ramped and pinned rings shift better than plain rings.  I
 know some very smart people ( Grant Peterson, Jan Heine,  Peter White)
 think ramps do not help, but I disagree.  I wouldn't have thought so for my
 first 35 years of cycling but then I bought a set of ramped TAs and thought
 OMG. The ramped White Ind rings on my Ram also shift superbly.  For the
 first two years of riding our tandem I had all the front end shifting
 issues you describe (plus not being able to drop the chain to the small
 ring), and noticed at tandem rallies that it seemed to be the most common
 problem among riders.  Then I did all of the above and have not missed a
 shift on the tandem since.

 I suspect that the ramps simply encourage the chain to drop onto the ring
 when it may otherwise struggle to make good contact.

 Lastly, I would try to have the conversation with Grant.  At least his
 thoughts on ST angle and front shifting would be good to know.

 Michael

 On Tuesday, July 22, 2014 11:13:40 AM UTC-4, Jim Bronson wrote:

 I have had my Rivendell for approximately 9 years now. During this time
 I have continually had problems with overshifting of the front derailer.
 This has continued through 4 different cranksets, two or three different
 front derailers, different brands of chains, different casettes, different
 LBSs tinkering with it and so forth.  Not to mention my own tinkering.
 I've theorized that maybe the seat tube angle on my bike is different than
 others due to the large size of my bike - 69cm, but I don't really know.

 I had given up on the problem and just rode the chain back on to the big
 ring if it came off that way, or stopped and put it back on the granny if
 it came off that way.

 I just recently as in last week switched to a Deore SGS derailer, so
 super long cage.  With so much longer of a cage, it pulls the chain back a
 lot father now when it comes off the big ring and I am afraid of 

[RBW] Re: Cover of Bicycle Times Magazine

2014-07-23 Thread Chris in Redding, Ca.


 Hey All,

Anyone know anything about the build specs of the Mr. Gray's Hunq? I'm 
curious in general, but specifically about the bars.
Thanks,
Chris
Redding, Ca. 

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Re: [RBW] the new Suntour?

2014-07-23 Thread Jim Bronson
This has been discussed briefly on the group before.

Now me, I am actually interested in the purpose of the hangar.  When would
this sort of thing be used?  On a bike that didn't have a proper derailer
hanger?


On Wed, Jul 23, 2014 at 8:02 AM, MobileBill zeusande...@gmail.com wrote:

 A recent post on a derailer hanger for Simple One referred to this site:

 http://sunxcd.net/chaintug/

 Ignore, for now, the hanger, and check out the rest of the products. Read
 the About section, and the company's mission. Did I miss a conversation
 about this? Is this the new component manufacturer that Grant hinted at a
 number of months ago?

 (By the way, thanks to those who responded to my earlier post re: Hung or
 bomba. Just got back in town and reviewing...)


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Keep the metal side up and the rubber side down!

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[RBW] Re: FS: Waxed Canvas Bags.

2014-07-23 Thread Ron Mc


http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v728/bulldog1935/Raleigh/F%20Moser/aaaP6140003.jpg
Acorn discontinued their wedge bag, and it looks like you've picked it up - 
good for you.  
On my road bike this is my roadside bag and carries everything I could need 
in a forced stop including a spare tire.  


On Tuesday, July 22, 2014 10:05:43 PM UTC-5, David Banzer wrote:

 Excuse me if this is frowned upon here, just shamelessly plugging my small 
 hobby of bagmaking.

 I am finishing up a batch of saddle wedges and rackless front bags.
 Info here: treetop.bigcartel.com

 Any questions you may have? Please contact me offlist. Direct email is 
 treet...@gmail.com javascript:.

 Riv content: started making these bags for my Redwood, which is featured 
 in some bag photos.
 Thanks,
 David
 Chicago


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Re: [RBW] the new Suntour?

2014-07-23 Thread Patrick Moore
Converting your ss with track ends to a rd? I'm curious how that would work
in practice; seems a bit awkward, while the old-style, bolt-on hangars were
relatively secure if a bit clunky -- though, would they work with track
ends?

The various components would all be on my short list (at least to be
examined closely) were I buying new to build up a bike. Silver, pretty,
light; don't know anything about strong or cheap.


On Wed, Jul 23, 2014 at 8:53 AM, Jim Bronson jim.bron...@gmail.com wrote:

 This has been discussed briefly on the group before.

 Now me, I am actually interested in the purpose of the hangar.  When would
 this sort of thing be used?  On a bike that didn't have a proper derailer
 hanger?


 On Wed, Jul 23, 2014 at 8:02 AM, MobileBill zeusande...@gmail.com wrote:

 A recent post on a derailer hanger for Simple One referred to this site:

 http://sunxcd.net/chaintug/

 Ignore, for now, the hanger, and check out the rest of the products. Read
 the About section, and the company's mission. Did I miss a conversation
 about this? Is this the new component manufacturer that Grant hinted at a
 number of months ago?

 (By the way, thanks to those who responded to my earlier post re: Hung or
 bomba. Just got back in town and reviewing...)


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 Keep the metal side up and the rubber side down!

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-- 
Resumes, LinkedIn profiles, and letters that get interviews.
By-the-hour resume and LinkedIn coaching.
Other professional writing services.
http://www.resumespecialties.com/
Patrick Moore
Albuquerque, Nouvelle Mexique, Etats Unis

*
  * Where you come from is gone, where you thought you were going to never
was there, and where you are is no good unless you can get away from it.
Where is there a place for you to be? No place.*
* Nothing outside you can give you any place, he said. You needn't to
look at the sky because it's not going to open up and show no place behind
it. You needn't to search for any hole in the ground to look through into
somewhere else. You can't go neither forwards nor backwards into your
daddy's time nor your children's if you have them. In yourself right now is
all the place you've got. If there was any Fall, look there, if there was
any Redemption, look there, and if you expect any Judgment, look there,
because they all three will have to be in your time and your body and where
in your time and your body can they be?*
*  Where in your time and your body has Jesus redeemed you? he cried.
Show me where because I don't see the place. If there was a place where
Jesus had redeemed you that would be the place for you to be, but which of
you can find it?” -- Flannery O'Connor, Wise Blood  *

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[RBW] Re: the new Suntour?

2014-07-23 Thread Ryan
Looks like a Hunq. Sweet! I like the look of the components a lot. Nice and 
clean, not too flashy. I'm glad to see Suntour's back
On Wednesday, July 23, 2014 8:59:12 AM UTC-5, MobileBill wrote:

 See also the feature bike on their website ...

 On Wednesday, July 23, 2014 8:02:23 AM UTC-5, MobileBill wrote:

 A recent post on a derailer hanger for Simple One referred to this site:

 http://sunxcd.net/chaintug/

 Ignore, for now, the hanger, and check out the rest of the products. Read 
 the About section, and the company's mission. Did I miss a conversation 
 about this? Is this the new component manufacturer that Grant hinted at a 
 number of months ago?

 (By the way, thanks to those who responded to my earlier post re: Hung or 
 bomba. Just got back in town and reviewing...) 




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[RBW] Re: IRD Retro-shift-like levers

2014-07-23 Thread Ryan
On a related question...does anyone have any experience with their 
freewheels? They look decent and I have a couple of Rivs that may be due 
for freewheel replacement soon. I'm pretty regular about changing chains 
and stuff, but decent quality freewheels are hard to find
On Tuesday, July 22, 2014 6:50:23 PM UTC-5, Tony DeFilippo wrote:

 http://store.interlocracing.com/porabrlepa.html

 Anyone have any experience with these?  Or ordering direct from IRD? 
  Retroshift, now renamed 'gevenall' which seems dumb to me put out this 
 design a couple years ago.  I've been interested in them, but I'm not a fan 
 of the new name engraved all over the levers and I came across this kind of 
 tucked away in the brakes section of IRD's web store. I can't find any 
 other mention of it on the web.  To me it looks like a naked, unbranded 
 version of what Retroshift is calling their 'Audax' lever.


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[RBW] Re: IRD Retro-shift-like levers

2014-07-23 Thread Kevin M
I wonder well these would work on mustache bars?

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[RBW] Re: What 650b hammered aluminum fenders fit a Bleriot?

2014-07-23 Thread Anton Tutter


Here's what you do--

Mark the chainstay exactly 320mm from the axle centerline. That's the 
critical point where you want to measure the clearance between the stays.  
At 320mm is where your Hetres will be at their widest.  You want clearance 
of at least 46mm there.

Most any 650B fenders will work as long as you have 46mm there, as they 
will intersect the stays slightly farther away from the axle, around 
325-330mm. Some dimpling may be required (don't cut!!) but the dimpling 
actually helps secure the fender.  Here's a 650B conversion I did.  I had 
46mm to work with @ 320mm from the axle center, the minimum to fit Hetres 
with fenders.  In this case the fenders were 52mm VO Zeppelins. I used the 
Weigle method published in BQ a few years ago to dimple the fenders.

https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5291/5455249676_17ece0d7cd_z.jpg

https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5291/5429235673_030957b269_z.jpg

Anton



On Tuesday, July 22, 2014 6:06:11 PM UTC-4, lungimsam wrote:

 ...with 40mm wide tires?

 I have a Bleriot with only 45mm space between chainstays, near the fender 
 mount bolt bridge behind the seat tube.

 What fenders work without cutting them to fit?

 If I can't find anything I might just go with the ole' trusty Longboards 
 as I know they fit.


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Re: [RBW] the new Suntour?

2014-07-23 Thread Ron Mc
also, old road bikes (and most mountain bikes) - this is a Raleigh steel 
derailleur hanger  

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v728/bulldog1935/Raleigh/700c/aP1170010.jpg


On Wednesday, July 23, 2014 10:05:59 AM UTC-5, Patrick Moore wrote:

 Converting your ss with track ends to a rd? I'm curious how that would 
 work in practice; seems a bit awkward, while the old-style, bolt-on hangars 
 were relatively secure if a bit clunky -- though, would they work with 
 track ends?

 The various components would all be on my short list (at least to be 
 examined closely) were I buying new to build up a bike. Silver, pretty, 
 light; don't know anything about strong or cheap.


 On Wed, Jul 23, 2014 at 8:53 AM, Jim Bronson jim.b...@gmail.com 
 javascript: wrote:

 This has been discussed briefly on the group before.

 Now me, I am actually interested in the purpose of the hangar.  When 
 would this sort of thing be used?  On a bike that didn't have a proper 
 derailer hanger?


 On Wed, Jul 23, 2014 at 8:02 AM, MobileBill zeusa...@gmail.com 
 javascript: wrote:

 A recent post on a derailer hanger for Simple One referred to this site:

 http://sunxcd.net/chaintug/

 Ignore, for now, the hanger, and check out the rest of the products. 
 Read the About section, and the company's mission. Did I miss a 
 conversation about this? Is this the new component manufacturer that Grant 
 hinted at a number of months ago?

 (By the way, thanks to those who responded to my earlier post re: Hung 
 or bomba. Just got back in town and reviewing...) 


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 You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google 
 Groups RBW Owners Bunch group.
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 javascript:.
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 -- 
 Keep the metal side up and the rubber side down! 

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 -- 
 Resumes, LinkedIn profiles, and letters that get interviews.
 By-the-hour resume and LinkedIn coaching.
 Other professional writing services.
 http://www.resumespecialties.com/
 Patrick Moore
 Albuquerque, Nouvelle Mexique, Etats Unis

 *
   * Where you come from is gone, where you thought you were going to 
 never was there, and where you are is no good unless you can get away from 
 it. Where is there a place for you to be? No place.*
 * Nothing outside you can give you any place, he said. You needn't to 
 look at the sky because it's not going to open up and show no place behind 
 it. You needn't to search for any hole in the ground to look through into 
 somewhere else. You can't go neither forwards nor backwards into your 
 daddy's time nor your children's if you have them. In yourself right now is 
 all the place you've got. If there was any Fall, look there, if there was 
 any Redemption, look there, and if you expect any Judgment, look there, 
 because they all three will have to be in your time and your body and where 
 in your time and your body can they be?*
 *  Where in your time and your body has Jesus redeemed you? he cried. 
 Show me where because I don't see the place. If there was a place where 
 Jesus had redeemed you that would be the place for you to be, but which of 
 you can find it?” -- Flannery O'Connor, Wise Blood  *
  

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Re: [RBW] the new Suntour?

2014-07-23 Thread Jim Bronson
The Suntour XCD rear derailer is definitely not cheap, it's over $100
online whereas a plain jane silver Deore goes for less than $50 online and
works really well on two of my bikes.

When I changed to 11-34 I considered the XCD, then chose the latter option.

What's really galling is that the equivalent Microshift to the Suntour XCD
sold for under $50 online, although now that Suntour XCD released their
model, it appears that supplies of the Microshift equivalent have dried up.

http://www.microshift.com.tw/RD-R51M_rd.html



On Wed, Jul 23, 2014 at 10:05 AM, Patrick Moore bertin...@gmail.com wrote:

 Converting your ss with track ends to a rd? I'm curious how that would
 work in practice; seems a bit awkward, while the old-style, bolt-on hangars
 were relatively secure if a bit clunky -- though, would they work with
 track ends?

 The various components would all be on my short list (at least to be
 examined closely) were I buying new to build up a bike. Silver, pretty,
 light; don't know anything about strong or cheap.


 On Wed, Jul 23, 2014 at 8:53 AM, Jim Bronson jim.bron...@gmail.com
 wrote:

 This has been discussed briefly on the group before.

 Now me, I am actually interested in the purpose of the hangar.  When
 would this sort of thing be used?  On a bike that didn't have a proper
 derailer hanger?


 On Wed, Jul 23, 2014 at 8:02 AM, MobileBill zeusande...@gmail.com
 wrote:

 A recent post on a derailer hanger for Simple One referred to this site:

 http://sunxcd.net/chaintug/

 Ignore, for now, the hanger, and check out the rest of the products.
 Read the About section, and the company's mission. Did I miss a
 conversation about this? Is this the new component manufacturer that Grant
 hinted at a number of months ago?

 (By the way, thanks to those who responded to my earlier post re: Hung
 or bomba. Just got back in town and reviewing...)


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 Resumes, LinkedIn profiles, and letters that get interviews.
 By-the-hour resume and LinkedIn coaching.
 Other professional writing services.
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 Albuquerque, Nouvelle Mexique, Etats Unis

 *
   * Where you come from is gone, where you thought you were going to
 never was there, and where you are is no good unless you can get away from
 it. Where is there a place for you to be? No place.*
 * Nothing outside you can give you any place, he said. You needn't to
 look at the sky because it's not going to open up and show no place behind
 it. You needn't to search for any hole in the ground to look through into
 somewhere else. You can't go neither forwards nor backwards into your
 daddy's time nor your children's if you have them. In yourself right now is
 all the place you've got. If there was any Fall, look there, if there was
 any Redemption, look there, and if you expect any Judgment, look there,
 because they all three will have to be in your time and your body and where
 in your time and your body can they be?*
 *  Where in your time and your body has Jesus redeemed you? he cried.
 Show me where because I don't see the place. If there was a place where
 Jesus had redeemed you that would be the place for you to be, but which of
 you can find it?” -- Flannery O'Connor, Wise Blood  *

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[RBW] Re: FS: Waxed Canvas Bags.

2014-07-23 Thread David Banzer
On Wednesday, July 23, 2014 6:38:34 AM UTC-5, Michael Hechmer wrote:

 Tell us more about the size of a medium saddle bag; I never trust 
 adjectives.
 Michael


The medium is:
Dimensions: 12 length unrolled, about 9 length when closed 
3 height 
2-1/2 tapered to 4-1/2 width  

These are wedges and not a typical saddlebag. They are smaller than what I 
would consider a saddlebag. Semantics I suppose.
I have made a smaller wedge, which fits less, and larger ones which fit 
more, which is what Patrick was referring to.
As Ron has said, the medium is similar to the Acorn tubular bag that they 
stopped making.
The medium fits more than just a spare tube and tools, which is why I 
called it medium I suppose. It's best for a bike for day rides where the 
riding is the emphasis, and you're not needing to carry a rando load or 
camping equipment. My Redwood fits this category. Add a small handlebar bag 
(like this guy: 
http://treetop.bigcartel.com/product/rolltop-handlebar-bag-gray-waxed-canvas-ready-to-ship)
 
and I can commute and carry a light rando load.
As I'm just starting out at this, I'm still working on new designs, but 
will continue to make and offer designs that I know work well. That being 
said, rolltop designs really help and allow bags to be overstuffed, if 
packed correctly.
Thanks to all for the kind words on  off list.
David
Chicago

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Re: [RBW] the new Suntour?

2014-07-23 Thread Garth

How 'bout this one Jim :) 
All silver too 

http://www.microshift.com.tw/RD-R47S_r10.html
http://www.ebikestop.com/microshift_r10_long_cage_10_speed_rear_derailleur-RD0103.php

https://www.google.com/search?q=MicroShift+R10+Long+Cage+10+speed+Rear+Derailleurgws_rd=ssl#q=MicroShift+Rd+r47+Long+Cage+10+speed+Rear+Derailleursafe=off

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[RBW] Re: Just fixed, or new bike day? - either way, thanks to the nice Riv folks

2014-07-23 Thread John Stowe
Yes, dynamo wire, using clear racer/helicopter tape 
http://www.amazon.com/ISC-Racerstape-com-Paint-surface-guard/dp/B000TPC7HU 
- the most secure and unobtrusive way I've found.

On Tuesday, July 22, 2014 6:53:13 PM UTC-4, Tom Harrop wrote:

 Oh yeah, and was that the dynamo wire you were taping to the frame right 
 at the start?


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[RBW] Re: IRD Retro-shift-like levers

2014-07-23 Thread Brian Campbell
Ryan, I have used IRD freewheels for about 4 years now. They work great. I 
know there were some quality control issues with the early models but I 
have never had a problem. Many thousands of miles, no issues. Exactly what 
you want from a freewheel.
 
 

On Wednesday, July 23, 2014 11:48:10 AM UTC-4, Ryan wrote:

 On a related question...does anyone have any experience with their 
 freewheels? They look decent and I have a couple of Rivs that may be due 
 for freewheel replacement soon. I'm pretty regular about changing chains 
 and stuff, but decent quality freewheels are hard to find
 On Tuesday, July 22, 2014 6:50:23 PM UTC-5, Tony DeFilippo wrote:

 http://store.interlocracing.com/porabrlepa.html

 Anyone have any experience with these?  Or ordering direct from IRD? 
  Retroshift, now renamed 'gevenall' which seems dumb to me put out this 
 design a couple years ago.  I've been interested in them, but I'm not a fan 
 of the new name engraved all over the levers and I came across this kind of 
 tucked away in the brakes section of IRD's web store. I can't find any 
 other mention of it on the web.  To me it looks like a naked, unbranded 
 version of what Retroshift is calling their 'Audax' lever.



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Re: [RBW] the new Suntour?

2014-07-23 Thread Garth

Oh... I guess it says 28t max cog .  Hmmm. the wrap is the same though, and 
the cage looks just as long .  . . .idk.  lol  ! 



On Wednesday, July 23, 2014 1:04:23 PM UTC-4, Garth wrote:


 How 'bout this one Jim :) 
 All silver too 

 http://www.microshift.com.tw/RD-R47S_r10.html

 http://www.ebikestop.com/microshift_r10_long_cage_10_speed_rear_derailleur-RD0103.php


 https://www.google.com/search?q=MicroShift+R10+Long+Cage+10+speed+Rear+Derailleurgws_rd=ssl#q=MicroShift+Rd+r47+Long+Cage+10+speed+Rear+Derailleursafe=off


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Re: [RBW] the new Suntour?

2014-07-23 Thread Jim Bronson
I've got an old Nishiki that has one of those derailers with an integrated
hanger.  I was wondering if that piece could replace it.


On Wed, Jul 23, 2014 at 11:26 AM, Ron Mc bulldog...@gmail.com wrote:

 also, old road bikes (and most mountain bikes) - this is a Raleigh steel
 derailleur hanger


 http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v728/bulldog1935/Raleigh/700c/aP1170010.jpg


 On Wednesday, July 23, 2014 10:05:59 AM UTC-5, Patrick Moore wrote:

 Converting your ss with track ends to a rd? I'm curious how that would
 work in practice; seems a bit awkward, while the old-style, bolt-on hangars
 were relatively secure if a bit clunky -- though, would they work with
 track ends?

 The various components would all be on my short list (at least to be
 examined closely) were I buying new to build up a bike. Silver, pretty,
 light; don't know anything about strong or cheap.


 On Wed, Jul 23, 2014 at 8:53 AM, Jim Bronson jim.b...@gmail.com wrote:

 This has been discussed briefly on the group before.

 Now me, I am actually interested in the purpose of the hangar.  When
 would this sort of thing be used?  On a bike that didn't have a proper
 derailer hanger?


 On Wed, Jul 23, 2014 at 8:02 AM, MobileBill zeusa...@gmail.com wrote:

 A recent post on a derailer hanger for Simple One referred to this site:

 http://sunxcd.net/chaintug/

 Ignore, for now, the hanger, and check out the rest of the products.
 Read the About section, and the company's mission. Did I miss a
 conversation about this? Is this the new component manufacturer that Grant
 hinted at a number of months ago?

 (By the way, thanks to those who responded to my earlier post re: Hung
 or bomba. Just got back in town and reviewing...)


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 Resumes, LinkedIn profiles, and letters that get interviews.
 By-the-hour resume and LinkedIn coaching.
 Other professional writing services.
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 Patrick Moore
 Albuquerque, Nouvelle Mexique, Etats Unis

 *
   * Where you come from is gone, where you thought you were going to
 never was there, and where you are is no good unless you can get away from
 it. Where is there a place for you to be? No place.*
 * Nothing outside you can give you any place, he said. You needn't to
 look at the sky because it's not going to open up and show no place behind
 it. You needn't to search for any hole in the ground to look through into
 somewhere else. You can't go neither forwards nor backwards into your
 daddy's time nor your children's if you have them. In yourself right now is
 all the place you've got. If there was any Fall, look there, if there was
 any Redemption, look there, and if you expect any Judgment, look there,
 because they all three will have to be in your time and your body and where
 in your time and your body can they be?*
 *  Where in your time and your body has Jesus redeemed you? he cried.
 Show me where because I don't see the place. If there was a place where
 Jesus had redeemed you that would be the place for you to be, but which of
 you can find it?” -- Flannery O'Connor, Wise Blood  *

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Re: [RBW] the new Suntour?

2014-07-23 Thread Jim Bronson
I looked at the silver long cage R10, it looks nice but the rating for the
biggest cog is 28.  The silver Chorus that I had before was rated to 29,
and was handling 30. So I would say it was at best equivalent to what I had
already.  I wanted to run something that was officially rated to handle 34,
so that's how I ended up where I did.


On Wed, Jul 23, 2014 at 12:04 PM, Garth garth...@gmail.com wrote:


 How 'bout this one Jim :)
 All silver too

 http://www.microshift.com.tw/RD-R47S_r10.html

 http://www.ebikestop.com/microshift_r10_long_cage_10_speed_rear_derailleur-RD0103.php


 https://www.google.com/search?q=MicroShift+R10+Long+Cage+10+speed+Rear+Derailleurgws_rd=ssl#q=MicroShift+Rd+r47+Long+Cage+10+speed+Rear+Derailleursafe=off

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Re: [RBW] the new Suntour?

2014-07-23 Thread Joe Bunik
Am pretty sure this widget is intended for reverse-fork (track) ends
(Sheldon wouldn'tve want you calling them dropouts!), e.g.
Quickbeam. Or perhaps your ex-keirin fixie. ;-)
=- Joe Bunik
Walnut Creek, CA

On 7/23/14, Jim Bronson jim.bron...@gmail.com wrote:
 I've got an old Nishiki that has one of those derailers with an integrated
 hanger.  I was wondering if that piece could replace it.


 On Wed, Jul 23, 2014 at 11:26 AM, Ron Mc bulldog...@gmail.com wrote:

 also, old road bikes (and most mountain bikes) - this is a Raleigh steel
 derailleur hanger


 http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v728/bulldog1935/Raleigh/700c/aP1170010.jpg


 On Wednesday, July 23, 2014 10:05:59 AM UTC-5, Patrick Moore wrote:

 Converting your ss with track ends to a rd? I'm curious how that would
 work in practice; seems a bit awkward, while the old-style, bolt-on
 hangars
 were relatively secure if a bit clunky -- though, would they work with
 track ends?

 The various components would all be on my short list (at least to be
 examined closely) were I buying new to build up a bike. Silver, pretty,
 light; don't know anything about strong or cheap.


 On Wed, Jul 23, 2014 at 8:53 AM, Jim Bronson jim.b...@gmail.com wrote:

 This has been discussed briefly on the group before.

 Now me, I am actually interested in the purpose of the hangar.  When
 would this sort of thing be used?  On a bike that didn't have a proper
 derailer hanger?


 On Wed, Jul 23, 2014 at 8:02 AM, MobileBill zeusa...@gmail.com wrote:

 A recent post on a derailer hanger for Simple One referred to this
 site:

 http://sunxcd.net/chaintug/

 Ignore, for now, the hanger, and check out the rest of the products.
 Read the About section, and the company's mission. Did I miss a
 conversation about this? Is this the new component manufacturer that
 Grant
 hinted at a number of months ago?

 (By the way, thanks to those who responded to my earlier post re: Hung
 or bomba. Just got back in town and reviewing...)


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 --
 Resumes, LinkedIn profiles, and letters that get interviews.
 By-the-hour resume and LinkedIn coaching.
 Other professional writing services.
 http://www.resumespecialties.com/
 Patrick Moore
 Albuquerque, Nouvelle Mexique, Etats Unis

 *
   * Where you come from is gone, where you thought you were going to
 never was there, and where you are is no good unless you can get away
 from
 it. Where is there a place for you to be? No place.*
 * Nothing outside you can give you any place, he said. You needn't to
 look at the sky because it's not going to open up and show no place
 behind
 it. You needn't to search for any hole in the ground to look through
 into
 somewhere else. You can't go neither forwards nor backwards into your
 daddy's time nor your children's if you have them. In yourself right now
 is
 all the place you've got. If there was any Fall, look there, if there
 was
 any Redemption, look there, and if you expect any Judgment, look there,
 because they all three will have to be in your time and your body and
 where
 in your time and your body can they be?*
 *  Where in your time and your body has Jesus redeemed you? he cried.
 Show me where because I don't see the place. If there was a place where
 Jesus had redeemed you that would be the place for you to be, but which
 of
 you can find it? -- Flannery O'Connor, Wise Blood  *

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Re: [RBW] the new Suntour?

2014-07-23 Thread Jim Bronson
Yeah, it might have worked, but I judged the comfort of knowing it will
work as being more important than aesthetics because I use my Rivendell as
a brevet bike.


On Wed, Jul 23, 2014 at 12:09 PM, Garth garth...@gmail.com wrote:


 Oh... I guess it says 28t max cog .  Hmmm. the wrap is the same though,
 and the cage looks just as long .  . . .idk.  lol  !



 On Wednesday, July 23, 2014 1:04:23 PM UTC-4, Garth wrote:


 How 'bout this one Jim :)
 All silver too

 http://www.microshift.com.tw/RD-R47S_r10.html
 http://www.ebikestop.com/microshift_r10_long_cage_10_
 speed_rear_derailleur-RD0103.php

 https://www.google.com/search?q=MicroShift+R10+Long+Cage+10+
 speed+Rear+Derailleurgws_rd=ssl#q=MicroShift+Rd+r47+Long+
 Cage+10+speed+Rear+Derailleursafe=off

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[RBW] Re: Just fixed, or new bike day? - either way, thanks to the nice Riv folks

2014-07-23 Thread John Stowe
I suppose I should clarify that I did pay for the new frame - but full 
price, which they certainly could have asked for, since as you say, I 
wasn't the customer (though several parts did come from them, most visibly 
the Bosco Bullmoose's). Wouldn't want to set up anyone else to expect (or 
demand) free stuff, especially since every situation is different.

I told Keven I was curious, so hopefully he'll let me know what they find 
out about the problem. My uneducated guess would have been that something 
wasn't right with the brazing process, wrong temperature or some such 
thing, except it looks like the crack is in the tube and not actually 
inside the joint - of course that could also be a side effect of my riding 
on it loose, when the problem started elsewhere.


On Wednesday, July 23, 2014 1:14:34 AM UTC-4, lungimsam wrote:


 Wow! That's what I call amazing customer service - and you weren't even 
 the customer!
 Compliments to RBW for going above and beyond. That goes a long way in 
 goodwill, I'd say.

 I look forward to a Blug post about this frame and how they figure it 
 happened.


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[RBW] Re: Just fixed, or new bike day? - either way, thanks to the nice Riv folks

2014-07-23 Thread John Stowe
My riding buddy has 6 pounds to go before he's officially too big, but 
the foot rests are starting to feel a bit short. Funny, you'd think a Dutch 
baby seat would allow for long legs. He's almost tall enough for his first 
balance bike - non-Riv, unless that's what the Clem Smith turns out to be!

5th floor apartment means no tagalongs, trailers or other things that won't 
fit in the elevator Probably just as well, considering the amount of 
riding we do in city traffic.

-John

On Wednesday, July 23, 2014 7:53:17 AM UTC-4, Michael Hechmer wrote:

 Glad your story had such a happy ending, although it seems to have been a 
 big disruption.  

 Sometimes I get on my 2006 Rambouillet, after I haven't ridden it for 
 awhile,  and it feels like a new bike day; and after all the work you did I 
 definitely recommend luxuriating in a new bike experience.

 BTW, it looks like your ridding buddy is getting too big for his ride, but 
 probably not quite big enough for a tag along.

 Michael

 On Monday, July 21, 2014 4:24:43 PM UTC-4, John Stowe wrote:

 Back in May I was on a group ride with my toddler in the front seat of 
 our Sam Hillborne when I got my first flat ever for that bike. Probably 
 approaching 2000 miles on it, so not too bad, I thought. Walk to a bench, 
 snack and sippy cup for the kid, get out the patch kit. As I pulled the 
 frame pump out from between the double top tubes, though, I noticed a 
 suspiciously rust-looking discoloration along the lug attaching the lower 
 top tube to the seat tube. I'm perfectly comfortable doing my own 
 maintenance, but frame issues are definitely above my pay grade - 
 assuming that 1 1/2 top tubes would still be pretty good, I rode straight 
 home and then the next day I took it by my LBS for diagnosis.

 I was hoping maybe there was just a gap in the paint that allowed water 
 and then rust in, but the shop owner knew better what to look for and 
 showed me that there actually was a crack, about halfway around the joint 
 between the lug and the seat tube. Hard to say how long it was there, or 
 took to develop - It was on the side I lean against the wall when I park 
 it, and opposite the side I usually mount from, so it's not an area I 
 looked at much. So it turns out the flat was a good thing. Once we got it 
 cleaned up, I was able to get an OK picture or two (the little tab on the 
 right is bent out a bit because we were picking at it trying to decide if 
 it was a paint chip or metal).


 https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-jyhjNqQpbFk/U81oZFxg80I/Bcg/M7i258IK7YY/s1600/DSC_0306.jpg
 I got the frame secondhand, so Rivendell had no particular obligation to 
 me (I was concerned about spending that much on a frame at the time, so 
 saving a couple hundred bucks helped make my decision to get a Riv), but I 
 figured I'd give them a call for advice on how to go about getting my frame 
 repaired. Keven told me that while it could be repaired, they were curious 
 to know how/why it failed, and would like for it to go back to the factory 
 for inspection. I'm on the large side at 220ish lb., and I do carry the 
 baby and/or groceries on occasion, but most of my riding is relatively 
 low-stress city riding and commuting, so overall I probably cause much less 
 stress than the other bikes on this list that get to go on off-road 
 adventures/Jamborees/Entmoots/S24Os on a regular basis happily endure. 
 Plus, it had fairly low mileage compared to a typical steel frame's 
 lifetime (it was secondhand, but unbuilt/ridden before me).

 Keven worked with me on a much-more-than-fair deal to swap the frame for 
 a new one, which with the recent sizing change durned out to be a better 
 fit for me - I was between the 56cm and 60cm in the old lineup, so the new 
 58cm is right on the money. The new frame was on its way to me within a 
 week, and the next weekend I swapped out the parts and sent the cracked 
 frame back in the same box. Aside from the bare cable runs being 
 ever-so-slightly longer, it was a pretty smooth process. The teardown was a 
 lot quicker than the buildup, as expected. I figured I'd put my GoPro 
 (sadly, having such things appears to be necessary with so many grumpy 
 drivers around) on the ceiling fan and see what the top of my head looks 
 like when I'm working on my bikes:

 http://youtu.be/EgTIcVUVnkA

 It's been a while now, but I still want to publicly thank Keven/Riv for 
 going much farther than necessary to make sure I was back on a complete, 
 non-broken Rivendell when there was really no obligation to help me at all. 

 My question for the group is: did I get a second new bike day, or just 
 a fixed bike day? There wasn't a dramatic change in feel between the old 
 and new bikes, though I'd say my position did feel slightly more sensible - 
 which I guess is a sign of a closer fit between the frame and rider size. 
 Regardless, my co-pilot and I have been enjoying the new 58cm frame this 
 summer (This picture also 

[RBW] Re: Just fixed, or new bike day? - either way, thanks to the nice Riv folks

2014-07-23 Thread John Stowe
My riding buddy has 6 pounds to go before he's officially too big, but 
the foot rests are starting to feel a bit short. Funny, you'd think a Dutch 
baby seat would allow for long legs. He's almost tall enough for his first 
balance bike - non-Riv, unless that's what the Clem Smith turns out to be! 

5th floor apartment means no tagalongs, trailers or other things that won't 
fit in the elevator

-John

On Wednesday, July 23, 2014 7:53:17 AM UTC-4, Michael Hechmer wrote:

 Glad your story had such a happy ending, although it seems to have been a 
 big disruption.  

 Sometimes I get on my 2006 Rambouillet, after I haven't ridden it for 
 awhile,  and it feels like a new bike day; and after all the work you did I 
 definitely recommend luxuriating in a new bike experience.

 BTW, it looks like your ridding buddy is getting too big for his ride, but 
 probably not quite big enough for a tag along.

 Michael




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Re: [RBW] Re: FS - White Industries, Chris King -

2014-07-23 Thread Philip Williamson
That was pretty fun, laying out parts to swap. The aluminum is always 
shinier on the other side of the keyboard!

Philip
www.biketinker.com

On Tuesday, July 22, 2014 4:47:07 PM UTC-7, Tony DeFilippo wrote:

 Well what do you know the BUMP worked!  Off to a happy home in return for 
 an equally eclectic selection of useful parts!  

 Just to be clear, all items are 'SOLD'.


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[RBW] Re: IRD Retro-shift-like levers

2014-07-23 Thread Ryan
Thanks, Brian, for the info
 
I have an elderly Sachs 14-28 7-speed  from the 90's on my 97 A/R and a 
cheapy Shimano 7-speed (OK, Clem Smith quality)  14-28 on my Riv 
road...they aren't causing too much grief yet, but they're due for 
replacement soon. From the little I can tell, these IRDS look really  good, 
and yes, I remember reading a few years back that there were some issues as 
you say. 
On Wednesday, July 23, 2014 12:07:53 PM UTC-5, Brian Campbell wrote:

 Ryan, I have used IRD freewheels for about 4 years now. They work great. I 
 know there were some quality control issues with the early models but I 
 have never had a problem. Many thousands of miles, no issues. Exactly what 
 you want from a freewheel.
  
  

 On Wednesday, July 23, 2014 11:48:10 AM UTC-4, Ryan wrote:

 On a related question...does anyone have any experience with their 
 freewheels? They look decent and I have a couple of Rivs that may be due 
 for freewheel replacement soon. I'm pretty regular about changing chains 
 and stuff, but decent quality freewheels are hard to find
 On Tuesday, July 22, 2014 6:50:23 PM UTC-5, Tony DeFilippo wrote:

 http://store.interlocracing.com/porabrlepa.html

 Anyone have any experience with these?  Or ordering direct from IRD? 
  Retroshift, now renamed 'gevenall' which seems dumb to me put out this 
 design a couple years ago.  I've been interested in them, but I'm not a fan 
 of the new name engraved all over the levers and I came across this kind of 
 tucked away in the brakes section of IRD's web store. I can't find any 
 other mention of it on the web.  To me it looks like a naked, unbranded 
 version of what Retroshift is calling their 'Audax' lever.



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[RBW] Re: Front derailer forever overshifting - need help.

2014-07-23 Thread Michael Hechmer
I don't think ramps make dbl or trpl friction shifting faster or slower; I 
just think they greatly minimize the chance of a miss shift.
Michael

On Wednesday, July 23, 2014 9:37:22 AM UTC-4, Andrew Marchant-Shapiro wrote:

 I don't think the folks you cited think that ramps don't help; rather, 
 that for doubles, not using indexed shifting, they help very little.  If 
 you're running an STI triple, on the other hand, you essentially cast the 
 chain into the wind and hope that the wind catches it--which is precisely 
 what the pins and ramps do.  

 I have definitely found pinned/ramped shifting to be quicker on a double, 
 but it's only *marginally* faster.

 OTOH, I had this kind of overshift problem for years with a Sugino XD2 
 crank, original rings (48/36/24. iirc), 105 triple FD.  But it was only 
 that bike...I never figured it out.  Presently (different bike) I'm running 
 TA rings on a Sugino PX crank, 46/30, with an Ultegra double front 
 derailer, and since I dialed it in (which also meant replacing the RD with 
 a long-cage unit in this case) I haven't had a drop to the inside OR 
 outside.  And once I got the limit screws set right,I could just slam it 
 into big/small in front, which meant the chain never skated between rings.

 On Wednesday, July 23, 2014 8:31:55 AM UTC-4, Michael Hechmer wrote:

 I use that campy FD on all my bikes, except the tandem which has a campy 
 SR.  I find they shift superbly.  I would be very reluctant to bend one, 
 since they don't make them any more..

 When you wrote that you were at the limit of the set screw I wondered 
 about the chain line and if the BB was too long, but then you added that 
 you sometimes have trouble lifting the chain up to the big ring, and 
 dropping the chain below the small ring.  Starting over from scratch is 
 probably a good idea but here are some of the things I've done over the 
 years that have improved front end shifting.  

 Make sure the chain isn't too long.  The shortest workable chain and the 
 shortest workable rear cage seems to produce the best front end shifting.

 I now use a chain catcher  on all my bikes to prevent the chain from 
 falling inside the inner ring.  I like the ones from Aceco, but there 
 certainly are cheaper ones that work as well.  Sooner or later something 
 will come just a bit out of alignment and trigger this kind of chain drop,

 When replacing big rings I now insist on one with a post between the ring 
 and arm for the same reason, because sooner or later a chain will jump 
 across and fall onto the arm.  At least with a post, there is no chance of 
 wrapping the chain.

 New rings shift better than old rings; good rings shift better than 
 budget rings; ramped and pinned rings shift better than plain rings.  I 
 know some very smart people ( Grant Peterson, Jan Heine,  Peter White) 
 think ramps do not help, but I disagree.  I wouldn't have thought so for my 
 first 35 years of cycling but then I bought a set of ramped TAs and thought 
 OMG. The ramped White Ind rings on my Ram also shift superbly.  For the 
 first two years of riding our tandem I had all the front end shifting 
 issues you describe (plus not being able to drop the chain to the small 
 ring), and noticed at tandem rallies that it seemed to be the most common 
 problem among riders.  Then I did all of the above and have not missed a 
 shift on the tandem since.

 I suspect that the ramps simply encourage the chain to drop onto the ring 
 when it may otherwise struggle to make good contact.

 Lastly, I would try to have the conversation with Grant.  At least his 
 thoughts on ST angle and front shifting would be good to know.

 Michael

 On Tuesday, July 22, 2014 11:13:40 AM UTC-4, Jim Bronson wrote:

 I have had my Rivendell for approximately 9 years now. During this time 
 I have continually had problems with overshifting of the front derailer.  
 This has continued through 4 different cranksets, two or three different 
 front derailers, different brands of chains, different casettes, different 
 LBSs tinkering with it and so forth.  Not to mention my own tinkering.  
 I've theorized that maybe the seat tube angle on my bike is different than 
 others due to the large size of my bike - 69cm, but I don't really know.

 I had given up on the problem and just rode the chain back on to the big 
 ring if it came off that way, or stopped and put it back on the granny if 
 it came off that way.

 I just recently as in last week switched to a Deore SGS derailer, so 
 super long cage.  With so much longer of a cage, it pulls the chain back a 
 lot father now when it comes off the big ring and I am afraid of something 
 catastrophic happening like the chain getting tangled up in the spokes.  So 
 there is a renewed urgency to do something about it.

 The current front derailer is a Campy Racing T, which from what I read 
 on the Internet is supposed to be good at shifting compact triples.  I am 
 currently running a Sugino XD600 

Re: [RBW] Re: Cover of Bicycle Times Magazine

2014-07-23 Thread Matthew J
 While I like Bicycle Times, too, and subscribe to it electronically, if 
you're looking for a magazine worthy of it's paper, and your time, and one 
that repays additional study, I recommend Bicycle Quarterly, in case you 
 haven't seen it or haven't read it lately!

I will not subscribe to BQ as it has no digital option.  It is just as easy 
(actually easier, IMO) to save a digital copy as it is to save hard.

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[RBW] Re: Cover of Bicycle Times Magazine

2014-07-23 Thread Matthew J
Looks like a cool Euro trip set up, except no fenders?!?

Been a rainy 2014 in much of Europe this year.

On Thursday, July 17, 2014 5:33:40 PM UTC-5, blakcloud wrote:

 Received my digital version of the magazine and on the cover is a 
 Hunqapillar. 


 Check out the cover here http://bicycletimesmag.com/. 


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[RBW] Two last questions before going to 8-speed on my Sam.

2014-07-23 Thread lungimsam
So, I know that I can use an 8-speed cassette with an 8-speed chain on my 
Sam with Xt FD and Deore rear derailer. They all will work together.

1. Will going to an 11-32 8 speed from my current 12-34 9 speed cassette 
make me have to lose a link, or use the same link count?

2. Also, will going to the 8-speed mess up chainline since I am going to 8 
from a 9-speed cassette? I don't really understand chainline. But I was 
wondering if this would be an issue.

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[RBW] Re: Two last questions before going to 8-speed on my Sam.

2014-07-23 Thread Deacon Patrick
1: Too many variables combined with my too little knowledge to answer this 
one, but I went form 8 speed to 9 with a wider tooth gap than yours without 
changing chain length.
2: Mine shift from 8 to 9 speed did not shift chain line at all.

With abandon,
Patrick

On Wednesday, July 23, 2014 3:51:31 PM UTC-6, lungimsam wrote:

 So, I know that I can use an 8-speed cassette with an 8-speed chain on my 
 Sam with Xt FD and Deore rear derailer. They all will work together.

 1. Will going to an 11-32 8 speed from my current 12-34 9 speed cassette 
 make me have to lose a link, or use the same link count?

 2. Also, will going to the 8-speed mess up chainline since I am going to 8 
 from a 9-speed cassette? I don't really understand chainline. But I was 
 wondering if this would be an issue.


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Re: [RBW] Re: Cover of Bicycle Times Magazine

2014-07-23 Thread Steve Palincsar
Right, you'll just save it to floppy disk.  Oh, no, wait...

- Original Message -
From: Matthew J matthewj...@gmail.com
To: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, July 23, 2014 5:02:31 PM
Subject: Re: [RBW] Re: Cover of Bicycle Times Magazine



I will not subscribe to BQ as it has no digital option. It is just as easy 
(actually easier, IMO) to save a digital copy as it is to save hard. 

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[RBW] Re: Two last questions before going to 8-speed on my Sam.

2014-07-23 Thread Garth

No and No !

As far as chainline, it's really only a big deal to whom it's a big deal 
;)  

To keep it simple, it's not a good idea to ride on the smallest ring and 
smallest cog, or the largest ring and the largest cog . 

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[RBW] Re: Cover of Bicycle Times Magazine

2014-07-23 Thread Mike Schiller
That cover shot is from New Mexico. Nick Carmen, the author, spent last 
fall there and posted very similar pictures on his blog. That's what the BT 
website lists as the location.

~mike

On Wednesday, July 23, 2014 2:04:35 PM UTC-7, Matthew J wrote:

 Looks like a cool Euro trip set up, except no fenders?!?

 Been a rainy 2014 in much of Europe this year.

 On Thursday, July 17, 2014 5:33:40 PM UTC-5, blakcloud wrote:

 Received my digital version of the magazine and on the cover is a 
 Hunqapillar. 


 Check out the cover here http://bicycletimesmag.com/. 



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[RBW] Re: Cover of Bicycle Times Magazine

2014-07-23 Thread Mike Schiller
They are bullmoose bars.

~mike

On Wednesday, July 23, 2014 7:52:36 AM UTC-7, Chris in Redding, Ca. wrote:

 Hey All,

 Anyone know anything about the build specs of the Mr. Gray's Hunq? I'm 
 curious in general, but specifically about the bars.
 Thanks,
 Chris
 Redding, Ca. 


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[RBW] Re: Minneapolis country bike rally

2014-07-23 Thread Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery
http://hiawathacyclery.blogspot.com/2014/07/minneapolis-country-bike-rally.html

On Tuesday, July 22, 2014 1:08:11 PM UTC-5, Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery 
wrote:

 I'm hoping to offer rides that hit off-road and on-road cycling 
 attractions. So ideally you all bring bikes with bigger tires. 

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[RBW] FS: SKF bottom bracket 110 mm spindle, Schwalbe Marathon Duremes, Nitto M12 rack

2014-07-23 Thread gordo
The great parts purge continues.  There are a few items left over that 
folks here might want.  All prices include shipping within the continental 
U.S.  Local pick-up in SF encouraged.  

Looking to put the proceeds into my Hunqapillar savings fund!

1) SKF 110 mm JIS square taper bottom bracket - very low mileage (less than 
300 miles), comes with red non-drive side cup and Park Tools BBT-18 tool 
for installation/removal.  - $100 

more info here: http://www.compasscycle.com/bb_SKFBAS_jis.html

2) a pair of Schwalbe Marathon Dureme tires - marked 700x50 (measure closer 
to 700x45 on Dyads) and have less than 100 miles on them.  I no longer own 
a frame that will fit these. - $50

3) Nitto M12 front rack with acorn bolts - very little use and no scratches 
to be found.  This is the one that mounts directly to cantilever bosses. - 
$50 


Thanks,

gordo

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Re: [RBW] Re: the new Suntour?

2014-07-23 Thread Mark Chandler
The derailleurs are made by microSHIFT. I've ridden a number of
microSHIFT-produced derailleurs, and the SunXCD-branded ones have worked
well.


On Wed, Jul 23, 2014 at 7:57 AM, M D Smith bee...@gmail.com wrote:

 The Exceed crank arms look very nice.  I particularly like the idea of
 an adapter to allow the use of 110/74 bcd chainrings.

 I'm a big TA Cyclotouriste fan, particularly now that it's easier to
 source chainrings, but it would be nice to be able to use more normal
 rings.

 Cheers- Mike in Htfd, CT


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[RBW] Re: SimpleOne Rohloff Conversion

2014-07-23 Thread oceanofsound
It's been working out quite well. I currently have a 48x18 drivetrain which 
is more than adequate 95% of the time. When heavily loaded down and 
climbing hills steeper than a 10% grade 
(http://www.strava.com/segments/609531) I occasionally long for something a 
little lower, but the plan was always to keep the bike as a commuter and 
only do overnights with it, not to tour. The hub itself has been rock 
solid. Changed the oil once, and brought it back to Cycle Monkey once to 
deal with a leak - apparently a seal had failed, but it was covered under 
warranty. 

At one point I had a Grand Bois Cypres tire on the rear which was not a 
great idea. Way too many flats. Changing a rear tire flat with a Rohloff 
takes me 25 min. at best so I switched to a Pasela PT and that basically 
fixed the problem. 

On Monday, July 21, 2014 12:12:44 PM UTC-7, BSWP wrote:

 Say, after 10 months, how's the Rohloff/SO combo working out? I'm thinking 
 about my next frame, and how to gear it...

 - Andrew, Berkeley

 On Thursday, September 5, 2013 2:39:41 PM UTC-7, oceano...@gmail.com 
 wrote:

 For a little more context, I live at the top of 84 in Woodside and I 
 commute to work everyday (was Palo Alto, now Redwood City). This SimpleOne 
 was my first Rivendell, but when I moved to Woodside I largely stopped 
 riding it and purchased an Atlantis. A single speed in the mountains isn't 
 exactly the greatest commuting option. I biked up Old La Honda once, it 
 wasn't terribly fun. Back in early August I messed up the fork of my 
 Atlantis so I needed a way to continue commuting. Given that I live in a 
 tiny place, buying a third bike wasn't really enticing. This SimpleOne has 
 lots of sentimental value at this point so selling it never really crossed 
 my mind. I had been intrigued with a Rohloff conversion for quite some time 
 though, and this was the perfect opportunity to try it. The past few weeks 
 have been really great, plus I noticed my commute times have improved by 
 2-3 minutes. For what it's worth, my SimpleOne has a wider gearing range 
 than my Atlantis. Crazy. Anyway, I won't be going back to a single speed 
 anytime soon, that's for sure. 

 - Geoff

 On Thursday, September 5, 2013 8:23:14 AM UTC-7, Ron Mc wrote:

 the cold-set itself is only 1/3-inch on each side - the trick to it is 
 keeping the alignment.  Great-looking bikes and I'm jealous - thanks for 
 showing them.  

 On Thursday, September 5, 2013 9:56:43 AM UTC-5, Montclair BobbyB wrote:

 First, congratulations; that's an ambitious mod.  The basic concept is 
 cool (i.e. being able to switch between single-speed and internal-geared), 
 except cold-setting a 120mm spaced-frame to 135mm to me is pretty extreme. 
 A big part of the appeal of the S1/QB is that it IS a single speed and it 
 has 120mm rear spacing.  If you want gears (let alone a 14-speed Rohloff), 
 why are you starting with a 120mm SS frame and (forever) altering its 
 genetic structure? And how can you ever go back to SS (in good conscience) 
 as a 135mm-spaced SS???  Besides, there are other gearing options without 
 having to cold set.  For example, you can get creative with a dual-speed 
 freewheel and double crankset to at least stretch your SS into a 4-speed. 
  Or you can choose a 126mm internal-geared hub (like a SRAM/Spectro P5 or 
 S7; granted not a Rohloff, but a nice durable hub).  I use a Patterson 
 2-speed crankset which extends my S1 to climb moderate hills. Add an S7 
 hub, and you've got formidable gear range.

 OK, blah blah blah... fact remains you've already created a Simple-14.. 
 at the very least that's audacious, diabolical and totally Frankenbikish, 
 worthy of props... so I'll give that a big Dr Evil MBWAAAHH!!!

 Peace,
 BB



 On Wednesday, September 4, 2013 5:55:53 PM UTC-4, Daniel Molloy wrote:

 Hi group,

 I thought I would share this Rohloff conversion we just finished at 
 Cycle Monkey. As a former Rivendell employee and current Rohloff user I'm 
 a 
 little biased, but I think it turned out great. We cold-set the rear 
 triangle without any problems. Alex Wetmore converted his Quickbeam to a 
 Rohloff a while back, but there doesn't seem to be much info online about 
 it anymore. Fair Disclosure: I currently work at Cycle Monkey, and am 
 only 
 posting here since I believe it counts as relevant and interesting Riv 
 Content.


 http://cyclemonkeylab.blogspot.com/2013/09/rivendell-simpleone-rohloff-speedhub.html

 Thanks!



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Re: [RBW] the new Suntour?

2014-07-23 Thread Mark Chandler
The lower-end microSHIFT derailleurs don't shift as well as the similarly
priced Shimano units. The former have more slop, and are less tolerant of
dirt and/or poor setup. microSHIFT's higher-end derailleurs do function
quite nicely. Their non-sealed pulleys, however, aren't as smooth as the
ones found on Shimano or SRAM units.


On Wed, Jul 23, 2014 at 11:09 AM, Garth garth...@gmail.com wrote:


 Oh... I guess it says 28t max cog .  Hmmm. the wrap is the same though,
 and the cage looks just as long .  . . .idk.  lol  !



 On Wednesday, July 23, 2014 1:04:23 PM UTC-4, Garth wrote:


 How 'bout this one Jim :)
 All silver too

 http://www.microshift.com.tw/RD-R47S_r10.html
 http://www.ebikestop.com/microshift_r10_long_cage_10_
 speed_rear_derailleur-RD0103.php

 https://www.google.com/search?q=MicroShift+R10+Long+Cage+10+
 speed+Rear+Derailleurgws_rd=ssl#q=MicroShift+Rd+r47+Long+
 Cage+10+speed+Rear+Derailleursafe=off

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[RBW] fs- saddles, bags, brakes

2014-07-23 Thread dylan alverson
Hi I am clearing out the basement prices are negotiable shipping is 
included on everything but the wheels unless you want to pick up in 
Minneapolis.  Private message me for pictures


1.  Honey brooks b66 saddle with clamp 70 
2.  TA Alize Crankset 170  53/39 chainrings, with a 50 tooth alize track 
1/8 inch chainring This Crank can be a track crank, double, or triple. $100
3   Tektro cr720  complete set silver $30
4   Tektro r538 brake set front and rear  $40
5   Tektro r556 brake set front and rear   $40
6   Jitensha Bars by nitto  $45 
7   Nigel Smith Big Loafer  $80
8   Nitto  M-18 front rack  $90 
9   Nitto 46mm Noodle bars $50
10 Rear Phil wood flip flop hub 32 hole 650b velo orange diagonale wheel 
 $150 plus shipping
11 Rear Phil hi low touring hub laced to weinman zac 19 650b rear wheel 135 
spacing.  $100 plus shipping
12 nitto pearl 13 26.0 stem $30
13 Sugino 75 Road Double crankset 170mm $80 144 bcd 48/38
14 Honey Brooks Team professional $80
 

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[RBW] Re: FS: The Hunq. But I'm keeping the Atlantis!

2014-07-23 Thread SS
Bump. Looking for someone who will give me 70%, comes out to around $3500.  

On Saturday, July 12, 2014 5:44:41 AM UTC-7, SS wrote:

 If there is zero interest in my used 58cm Hunq then I have to admit I'd be 
 pretty glad, deep down.  However.  I have a family, and have been laid off, 
 and have an Atlantis who won the coin toss fair and square, so I 
 halfheartedly offer my extra bike for sale.  I've pictures and can go on 
 for days about the components and all, but I won't bore anyone.  Feel free 
 to ask though. I'd like $6k, but, well, that's pretty optimistic, and we'll 
 hammer out vulgar discussions of that nature when appropriate.


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[RBW] Re: Riv headset spacer bell mount outside diameter in line with your spacers, or wider?

2014-07-23 Thread Larry H
I run this mount from Velo Orange.  Its the same OD as 1 spacers.  I don't 
know if it works with a hammer strike bell.

http://store.velo-orange.com/index.php/accessories/bells/spacer-bell-mount.html

BTW, with a spring hammer bell (aka Bell 26), I prefer it facing forward 
rather than to the side.  Like a nice shiny headlight.

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[RBW] Re: My Sam Hillborne is literally BOMBPROOF

2014-07-23 Thread Cyclofiend Jim
Jay, just stay safe for us, matey!  

all good thoughts your way.

- Jim / cyclofiend.com

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[RBW] Re: What do Rivenell Riders use for iPhone mounts on their stems?

2014-07-23 Thread Cyclofiend Jim
Of no help.  Mine is in my pocket.  I've always operated under the 
impression that unless the electronic device is specifically designed for 
the kind of shock and vibration which comes up through the frame, using my 
patented Flesh Damping System™ is a better bet.  

- Jim

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Re: [RBW] FS: Frost River Caribou Saddle bag

2014-07-23 Thread Chris Chen
Still for sale? I'll take it.


On Tue, Jul 22, 2014 at 7:40 AM, Don Genovese dgen...@gmail.com wrote:

 Practically new. No flaws whatsoever. $50.00 plus shipping. CONUS only.

 Don Genovese
 Montara, CA 94037 U.S.A.

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[RBW] Re: Cover of Bicycle Times Magazine

2014-07-23 Thread Chris in Redding, Ca.
The bend just doesn't look like Bullmoose to me. Maybe I'm wrong.
Chris

On Wednesday, July 23, 2014 4:01:26 PM UTC-7, Mike Schiller wrote:

 They are bullmoose bars.

 ~mike

 On Wednesday, July 23, 2014 7:52:36 AM UTC-7, Chris in Redding, Ca. wrote:

 Hey All,

 Anyone know anything about the build specs of the Mr. Gray's Hunq? I'm 
 curious in general, but specifically about the bars.
 Thanks,
 Chris
 Redding, Ca. 



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[RBW] New bike day n+0 for now

2014-07-23 Thread Trevor saxton
So over the past few years I have bought, sold and given away many bikes, 
including many ribs, with the idea that I could get down to one bike which led 
to ordering a MAP custom rando which combined my love of 650b and low trail 
handling

however one bike just wasn't going to cut it and I had also accumulated quite a 
parts stash and so I then ordered an ANT single speed 700cx lightweight road 
bike for commuting and short training rides. 

But I still had parts to hang and wanted to try and go car free and really 
wanted a rivendell again as I wished that I had not sold at least two of them, 
so I ordered the ultimate car replacement  A semi custom 52cm single top 
tube, flat black Bombadil, which just arrived today!  The price on a single top 
tube is in the Hilsen range. 

https://www.flickr.com/photos/78462625@N07/14749097493/

Build kit has been assembeld, a 40/26 sugino crank,
 phil wood freewheel hub 6sp Regina freewhell laced to a synergy rim (zero 
dish), dyno front hub and vintage suntour touring derailleurs. 

 I also have two cockpits, albas and noodles, with davinci cable splitters, I 
also have a moustache cockpit but not sure I'm crazy about those. 

I feel completefor nowI have multiple frames boxed and ready for sale, 
(let me know if you are interested in a double top tube 56cm Hillborne)  Parts 
ready to post on ebay, an auto share program to join and a car to sell, 
hopefully I'll raise enough money to fund a frame building class without 
resorting to selling any of my now 3 beloved bikes which I hope to keep for a 
very long time.   First bike trip is in 3 weeks and will be a multi model train 
s48 20 (sub 48hr 2 overnight) trip. 



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Re: [RBW] New bike day n+0 for now

2014-07-23 Thread cyclotourist
Should be a great bike when built up!

Cheers,
David

it isn't a contest. Just enjoy the ride. - Seth Vidal





On Wed, Jul 23, 2014 at 5:19 PM, Trevor saxton saxton...@gmail.com wrote:

 So over the past few years I have bought, sold and given away many bikes,
 including many ribs, with the idea that I could get down to one bike which
 led to ordering a MAP custom rando which combined my love of 650b and low
 trail handling

 however one bike just wasn't going to cut it and I had also accumulated
 quite a parts stash and so I then ordered an ANT single speed 700cx
 lightweight road bike for commuting and short training rides.

 But I still had parts to hang and wanted to try and go car free and really
 wanted a rivendell again as I wished that I had not sold at least two of
 them, so I ordered the ultimate car replacement  A semi custom 52cm
 single top tube, flat black Bombadil, which just arrived today!  The price
 on a single top tube is in the Hilsen range.

 https://www.flickr.com/photos/78462625@N07/14749097493/

 Build kit has been assembeld, a 40/26 sugino crank,
  phil wood freewheel hub 6sp Regina freewhell laced to a synergy rim (zero
 dish), dyno front hub and vintage suntour touring derailleurs.

  I also have two cockpits, albas and noodles, with davinci cable
 splitters, I also have a moustache cockpit but not sure I'm crazy about
 those.

 I feel completefor nowI have multiple frames boxed and ready for
 sale, (let me know if you are interested in a double top tube 56cm
 Hillborne)  Parts ready to post on ebay, an auto share program to join and
 a car to sell, hopefully I'll raise enough money to fund a frame building
 class without resorting to selling any of my now 3 beloved bikes which I
 hope to keep for a very long time.   First bike trip is in 3 weeks and will
 be a multi model train s48 20 (sub 48hr 2 overnight) trip.



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Re: [RBW] New bike day n+0 for now

2014-07-23 Thread Dan McNamara
That 52 looks pretty sweet! Past pics when you get it built. 

Dan

 On Jul 23, 2014, at 5:19 PM, Trevor saxton saxton...@gmail.com wrote:
 
 So over the past few years I have bought, sold and given away many bikes, 
 including many ribs, with the idea that I could get down to one bike which 
 led to ordering a MAP custom rando which combined my love of 650b and low 
 trail handling
 
 however one bike just wasn't going to cut it and I had also accumulated quite 
 a parts stash and so I then ordered an ANT single speed 700cx lightweight 
 road bike for commuting and short training rides. 
 
 But I still had parts to hang and wanted to try and go car free and really 
 wanted a rivendell again as I wished that I had not sold at least two of 
 them, so I ordered the ultimate car replacement  A semi custom 52cm 
 single top tube, flat black Bombadil, which just arrived today!  The price on 
 a single top tube is in the Hilsen range. 
 
 https://www.flickr.com/photos/78462625@N07/14749097493/
 
 Build kit has been assembeld, a 40/26 sugino crank,
 phil wood freewheel hub 6sp Regina freewhell laced to a synergy rim (zero 
 dish), dyno front hub and vintage suntour touring derailleurs. 
 
 I also have two cockpits, albas and noodles, with davinci cable splitters, I 
 also have a moustache cockpit but not sure I'm crazy about those. 
 
 I feel completefor nowI have multiple frames boxed and ready for 
 sale, (let me know if you are interested in a double top tube 56cm Hillborne) 
  Parts ready to post on ebay, an auto share program to join and a car to 
 sell, hopefully I'll raise enough money to fund a frame building class 
 without resorting to selling any of my now 3 beloved bikes which I hope to 
 keep for a very long time.   First bike trip is in 3 weeks and will be a 
 multi model train s48 20 (sub 48hr 2 overnight) trip. 
 
 
 
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Re: [RBW] Re: What do Rivenell Riders use for iPhone mounts on their stems?

2014-07-23 Thread Patrick Moore
Left rear pocket when I wear jerseys (which I do, largely, to hold my
iPhone in the left rear pocket). Otherwise, in the left side pocket of my
(khaki cotton twill) shorts.

I have some sort of rain proof device that clamps to the bar and holds
the phone in a plastic case with roll-up tip, but I've used it exactly
twice in the 2-3 years I've owned it.


On Wed, Jul 23, 2014 at 5:27 PM, Cyclofiend Jim cyclofi...@earthlink.net
wrote:

 Of no help.  Mine is in my pocket.  I've always operated under the
 impression that unless the electronic device is specifically designed for
 the kind of shock and vibration which comes up through the frame, using my
 patented Flesh Damping System™ is a better bet.

 - Jim

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By-the-hour resume and LinkedIn coaching.
Other professional writing services.
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Albuquerque, Nouvelle Mexique, Etats Unis

*
  * Where you come from is gone, where you thought you were going to never
was there, and where you are is no good unless you can get away from it.
Where is there a place for you to be? No place.*
* Nothing outside you can give you any place, he said. You needn't to
look at the sky because it's not going to open up and show no place behind
it. You needn't to search for any hole in the ground to look through into
somewhere else. You can't go neither forwards nor backwards into your
daddy's time nor your children's if you have them. In yourself right now is
all the place you've got. If there was any Fall, look there, if there was
any Redemption, look there, and if you expect any Judgment, look there,
because they all three will have to be in your time and your body and where
in your time and your body can they be?*
*  Where in your time and your body has Jesus redeemed you? he cried.
Show me where because I don't see the place. If there was a place where
Jesus had redeemed you that would be the place for you to be, but which of
you can find it?” -- Flannery O'Connor, Wise Blood  *

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[RBW] Re: Cover of Bicycle Times Magazine

2014-07-23 Thread Shoji Takahashi
I don't think they're bullmoose. Here's a pic from another angle:
https://www.flickr.com/photos/cassgilbert/8645418341/in/set-72157633238653348

Maybe priest-like bars?
http://boxdogbikes-3.myshopify.com/products/handlebar-atb-nitto-jitensha-b2522-26-1

BTW: I love that a Hunqapillar is on the cover (in the wild!), and that 
photo is awesome. 
--shoji



On Wednesday, July 23, 2014 8:18:42 PM UTC-4, Chris in Redding, Ca. wrote:

 The bend just doesn't look like Bullmoose to me. Maybe I'm wrong.
 Chris

 On Wednesday, July 23, 2014 4:01:26 PM UTC-7, Mike Schiller wrote:

 They are bullmoose bars.

 ~mike

 On Wednesday, July 23, 2014 7:52:36 AM UTC-7, Chris in Redding, Ca. wrote:

 Hey All,

 Anyone know anything about the build specs of the Mr. Gray's Hunq? I'm 
 curious in general, but specifically about the bars.
 Thanks,
 Chris
 Redding, Ca. 



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Re: [RBW] Re: Cover of Bicycle Times Magazine

2014-07-23 Thread Eric Daume
I think it's a Jones Loop bar:

http://www.jonesbikes.com/h-bar/

Eric Daume
Dublin, OH


On Wed, Jul 23, 2014 at 10:52 AM, Chris in Redding, Ca. 
campredd...@gmail.com wrote:

 Hey All,

 Anyone know anything about the build specs of the Mr. Gray's Hunq? I'm
 curious in general, but specifically about the bars.
 Thanks,
 Chris
 Redding, Ca.

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Re: [RBW] Re: IRD Retro-shift-like levers

2014-07-23 Thread Tony DeFilippo
Kevin I've wondered the same thing... I suspect if like them quite a bit on
a moustache setup.  Then again I also like bar ends for mbars, and single
speed... I just like mbars!

Tony
On Jul 23, 2014 11:54 AM, Kevin M kpmulc...@gmail.com wrote:

 I wonder well these would work on mustache bars?

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Re: [RBW] New bike day n+0 for now

2014-07-23 Thread Tony DeFilippo
Pretty sweet n=3 setup! :).  

What will your first self built frame be?

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[RBW] Re: Two last questions before going to 8-speed on my Sam.

2014-07-23 Thread dougP
I doubt you need to be concerned about link count, but Sheldon has a 
procedure on his site for determine correct chain length, if that is a 
concern.  Re: chainline - 8 speed cassettes occupy the same space as 9 
speed so your chainline doesn't change.  If it worked fine as a 9, it'll 
work as an 8.  FWIW, modern chains are flexible enough that chainline isn't 
a huge issue within reasonable limits.  

dougP

On Wednesday, July 23, 2014 2:51:31 PM UTC-7, lungimsam wrote:

 So, I know that I can use an 8-speed cassette with an 8-speed chain on my 
 Sam with Xt FD and Deore rear derailer. They all will work together.

 1. Will going to an 11-32 8 speed from my current 12-34 9 speed cassette 
 make me have to lose a link, or use the same link count?

 2. Also, will going to the 8-speed mess up chainline since I am going to 8 
 from a 9-speed cassette? I don't really understand chainline. But I was 
 wondering if this would be an issue.


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Re: [RBW] New bike day n+0 for now

2014-07-23 Thread Trevor saxton
I am thinking a 650b single speed cyclocross style bike would be super fun

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Re: [RBW] Re: Cover of Bicycle Times Magazine

2014-07-23 Thread Ginz
I agree. It looks like an upside down jones loop bar. 

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Re: [RBW] New bike day n+0 for now

2014-07-23 Thread Tony DeFilippo
That's cool!  Kind of a Rawland-surly rough stuff SS... Disc brakes?
On Jul 23, 2014 10:37 PM, Trevor saxton saxton...@gmail.com wrote:

 I am thinking a 650b single speed cyclocross style bike would be super fun

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[RBW] Re: Cover of Bicycle Times Magazine

2014-07-23 Thread Mike Schiller
 I swear I've seen bullmooose bars on his bike.  He did have Noodles at one 
point but those look like Jitensha bars.  Definitely not Loop bars.

~mike

On Wednesday, July 23, 2014 4:01:26 PM UTC-7, Mike Schiller wrote:

 They are bullmoose bars.

 ~mike

 On Wednesday, July 23, 2014 7:52:36 AM UTC-7, Chris in Redding, Ca. wrote:

 Hey All,

 Anyone know anything about the build specs of the Mr. Gray's Hunq? I'm 
 curious in general, but specifically about the bars.
 Thanks,
 Chris
 Redding, Ca. 



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[RBW] Observed in passing ...

2014-07-23 Thread Patrick Moore
http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-COcrnM7i4dg/UuKtfMjui5I/xKU/Qt9Y4FNb8J4/s1600/just+kidding.jpg

... in the usual place.


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Patrick Moore
Albuquerque, Nouvelle Mexique, Etats Unis

*
  * Where you come from is gone, where you thought you were going to never
was there, and where you are is no good unless you can get away from it.
Where is there a place for you to be? No place.*
* Nothing outside you can give you any place, he said. You needn't to
look at the sky because it's not going to open up and show no place behind
it. You needn't to search for any hole in the ground to look through into
somewhere else. You can't go neither forwards nor backwards into your
daddy's time nor your children's if you have them. In yourself right now is
all the place you've got. If there was any Fall, look there, if there was
any Redemption, look there, and if you expect any Judgment, look there,
because they all three will have to be in your time and your body and where
in your time and your body can they be?*
*  Where in your time and your body has Jesus redeemed you? he cried.
Show me where because I don't see the place. If there was a place where
Jesus had redeemed you that would be the place for you to be, but which of
you can find it?” -- Flannery O'Connor, Wise Blood  *

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