Re: [RBW] Re: Hunqapillar (or other riv) as a dirt drop mountain bike?

[Mike Schiller]

I think it depends on where you run your bars in normal drops.  I like mine 
a few cm below the saddle and my dirt drops hook position about the same.   
 When descending rough stuff I like to be stretched out and low, keeping 
the COG as low as possible.  With the new Cowchippers that have the hoods 
more like regular drops I might run the hoods level with the saddle and the 
drops where they fall.  

~mike
Carlsbad Ca

On Monday, October 12, 2015 at 7:44:03 PM UTC-7, cyclot...@gmail.com wrote:
>
> Of the three pictured, Mark R's is the most viable, as the bars are up 
> high enough for singletrack. 
> IMHO drop bar MTB only works if the drop position is at saddle height. 
> Otherwise you're way stretched out and low, which is not good at all 
> for technical downhill singletrack. 
> More than fine for fire roads, but doesn't cut it for singletrack. 
> Moustache bars work great for that BTW, and are much easier to set at 
> seat height. 
> Here's my drop bar 29er: 
> https://www.flickr.com/photos/cyclotourist/20193159021 
>
> On Mon, Oct 12, 2015 at 7:32 PM, Deacon Patrick  > wrote: 
> > Hunqapillar, Thunder Burts, Albastache. Big grin. 
> > 
> https://www.flickr.com/photos/32311885@N07/17188072456/in/album-72157652014701796/
>  
> > 
> > With abandon, 
> > Patrick 
> > 
> > On Monday, October 12, 2015 at 8:05:19 PM UTC-6, brianweee wrote: 
> >> 
> >> Is anyone using their Rivendell Hunqapillar as a dirt drop mountain 
> bike? 
> >> or monster cross bike style? 
> > 
> > -- 
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>
>
> -- 
> Cheers, 
> David 
>
> Member, Supreme Council of Cyberspace 
>
> "it isn't a contest. Just enjoy the ride." - Seth Vidal 
>

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[RBW] Re: Bike Snob Ride Report, NYC

[Montclair BobbyB]

Always worth a read... thanks.  I especially love the after-comments... 
 Enjoy that VT foliage... jealous.

On Tuesday, October 13, 2015 at 8:19:05 PM UTC-4, Michael Hechmer wrote:
>
> I grew up in NYC and used to ride the bridges and the parks, so I greatly 
> enjoyed this ride report.
>
>
> http://blog.brooksengland.com/wps/you-cant-spell-brooklyn-without-brooks-though-you-will-be-stuck-with-a-leftover-s/
>
> Meanwhile I am enjoying less stressful rides during Vermont's foliage 
> season. 
>
> Michael
>

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[RBW] Re: All arounder Handlebar recommendations GO!

[drew]

thanks all. 
im not entirely opposed to drops. if it wasnt a whole other can of worms 
and didnt require a different sized stem and brake levers, i'd probably try 
noodles before anything else.. and may still be convinced that that is the 
way to go.  the jitensa shape makes sense in my mind, and would be a 
cheaper swap. 


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Re: [RBW] Re: Hunqapillar (or other riv) as a dirt drop mountain bike?

[Patrick Moore]

Mike: I'd love to see profile photos of your road and dirt bikes with low
bars. Pretty please?

Thanks.

On Wed, Oct 14, 2015 at 8:32 AM, Mike Schiller 
wrote:

> I think it depends on where you run your bars in normal drops.  I like
> mine a few cm below the saddle and my dirt drops hook position about the
> same.When descending rough stuff I like to be stretched out and low,
> keeping the COG as low as possible.  With the new Cowchippers that have the
> hoods more like regular drops I might run the hoods level with the saddle
> and the drops where they fall.
>
> ~mike
> Carlsbad Ca
>
> On Monday, October 12, 2015 at 7:44:03 PM UTC-7, cyclot...@gmail.com
> wrote:
>>
>> Of the three pictured, Mark R's is the most viable, as the bars are up
>> high enough for singletrack.
>> IMHO drop bar MTB only works if the drop position is at saddle height.
>> Otherwise you're way stretched out and low, which is not good at all
>> for technical downhill singletrack.
>> More than fine for fire roads, but doesn't cut it for singletrack.
>> Moustache bars work great for that BTW, and are much easier to set at
>> seat height.
>> Here's my drop bar 29er:
>> https://www.flickr.com/photos/cyclotourist/20193159021
>>
>> On Mon, Oct 12, 2015 at 7:32 PM, Deacon Patrick 
>> wrote:
>> > Hunqapillar, Thunder Burts, Albastache. Big grin.
>> >
>> https://www.flickr.com/photos/32311885@N07/17188072456/in/album-72157652014701796/
>> >
>> > With abandon,
>> > Patrick
>> >
>> > On Monday, October 12, 2015 at 8:05:19 PM UTC-6, brianweee wrote:
>> >>
>> >> Is anyone using their Rivendell Hunqapillar as a dirt drop mountain
>> bike?
>> >> or monster cross bike style?
>> >
>> > --
>> > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google
>> Groups
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>> an
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>> > For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
>>
>>
>>
>> --
>> Cheers,
>> David
>>
>> Member, Supreme Council of Cyberspace
>>
>> "it isn't a contest. Just enjoy the ride." - Seth Vidal
>>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Hunqapillar (or other riv) as a dirt drop mountain bike?

[Clayton.sf]

Bar height has nothing to do with this. If you are in the drops which is where 
you mostly ride on a drop bar Mtb your teeth are closer to the stem no matter 
the bar height. 

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Re: [RBW] Re: BQ to publish study of pedal retention usefulness in Summer issue

[Patrick Moore]

It was not as big a feature as we had hoped; merely a sidebar to a bike
review where Jan briefly tried MKS Urban pedals with half clips and didn't
like them. His earlier blog post had let us hope that they were going to do
a study.

Study or not, I have to say that I agree with Jan, to the point where I'd
rather walk in SPDs than ride in street shoes. (If I have to put on special
shoes for pedaling, I'd rather wear ones with cleats, and SPDs are my
choice.) I briefly put the Urbans on the Dahon and hated them, which is odd
because 5-10 years ago I used to like MKS GR-9s with clips and straps, and
the Urbans are better than the GR-9s.

On Tue, Oct 13, 2015 at 12:18 PM, George Schick  wrote:

> Now that Summer is long past, does anyone who subscribes to BQ have a
> synopsis of what they found out about pedal retention usefulness that
> they'd like to share?
>
>
> On Friday, May 15, 2015 at 9:23:53 AM UTC-5, Patrick Moore wrote:
>>
>> Doubtless of interest to RBW listers. Quoted from the Compass blog for
>> those who don't read it or BQ.
>>
>> I'll be very interested myself, as someone hitherto convinced that
>> retention is a great help. If tests show that retention doesn't help, I'd
>> probably still keep retention on my fixed gears, for safety, and because
>> they do undoubtedly allow pulling up for more torque when climbing steep
>> hills, but would undoubtedly switch to platforms for my off road derailleur
>> bike.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> *Jayme Frye says:May 15, 2015 at 6:27 amI was with you up until SPD
>> clipless pedals. I am not convinced there is any need for retention systems
>> outside the ultra competitive world of pro cycling (primarily sprints).
>> Perhaps you could use your testing methods on the claims that pedal
>> retention systems are more efficient and allow the rider to produce more
>> power by pulling up. That would make for a great BQ article.CheersReplyJan
>> Heine, Editor, Bicycle Quarterly says:May 15, 2015 at 6:55 amWe did test
>> this. It’s in the Summer issue, which will come out soon…Reply*
>>
>> --
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>> Alburquerque, Nouvelle Mexique,  Vereinigte Staaten
>>
>> *
>> *The point which is the pivot of the norm is the motionless center of a
>> circumference on the rim of which all conditions, distinctions, and
>> individualities revolve. *Chuang Tzu
>>
>> *Kinei hos eromenon. It moves as the being-loved. *Aristotle
>>
>> *The Love that moves the Sun and all the other stars. *Dante
>>
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[RBW] Re: Compass Knickers

[Michael Cinibulk]

Thanks Will for the detailed review. I have the same problem as you with most 
knickers - they're too short for my long femurs. Would you mind measuring the 
inseam length of your pair?

Thanks,

Mike C
Bellbrook O

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Re: [RBW] Darning wool socks

[Patrick Moore]

If you tend to wear holes in good socks, as I do with my big or even longer
2nd toes (heels last forever), and if you want workable but quick results
without having to think much about it, I've long since found that cross
-stitching and crudely reweaving with regular thread and needle works fine,
if it looks crude. The secret is not to pull the gap closed so much as
"cover it up" with thread, though you do in fact pull it together to some
extent. It takes me less than 10 minutes a hole including threading the
needle with my poor nearsight vision and putting the kit back into the
cupbord.

I had several pairs of Rivendell heavy wool socks circa 2008 or so that my
toes wore through in the blink of an eye, and I repeatedly "darned" these
as above until I got tired of doing so and tossed them earlier this year.

But my "method" has allowed up to 9 additional lives for certain nice wool
socks.

A previous owner of the wonderful Cycles Wolfe Biene retro wool jersey I
own (front pockets!!) fixed several moth holes by carefully sewing little
patches of cloth around the perimeter of the patches, inside the holes.
It's neat, though said person did use white cloth, which I camouflaged with
a yellow marker. It's hard to see the repairs.

On Wed, Oct 14, 2015 at 8:13 AM, Eunice Chang  wrote:

> Here you go:
>
> http://www.knitty.com/ISSUEsummer08/FEATsum08TT.html - it tells you all
> the equipment you need, such as a darning egg (or mushroom) and tapestry
> needle.
>
> I don't know how thick the yarn is, but you can probably use sock yarn if
> you go to a yarn shop. They're wool reinforced with a bit of nylon so they
> can stand up to wear and tear. You probably can weave in yarn as many times
> as you want. Avoid short-lived fibers such as merino or angora or cashmere-
> they'll just result in more holes.
>
> The other option is to get thin (but flexible) felt squares and to sew it
> to the heel. The felt will mold to the heel and might last longer than the
> sock yarn, though it may also stretch the existing area it is connected to.
>
> Mostly, though, I just stuff the sock with batting and knot it and give it
> to my dog.
>
> -E.
>
> On Tue, Oct 13, 2015 at 6:47 PM, Aaron Young <1ce...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> The heels of my wool socks I bought from Riv are getting pretty thin. I
>> thought I would try to reinforce them by darning.  Has anyone tried that?
>> Success or failure?  Which type of wool did you use?
>>
>> Please, help me get out of this heel hole. :)
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> Aaron
>>
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[RBW] Re: Groceries and baskets

[Fred Craven]

OK, so far I'm getting the idea that a rear rack/basket/pannier is better 
than front for carrying a few groceries, especially given the fact that my 
bike has more of a road-ish geometry. And that the front basket may do just 
as fine as long as I don't load it up too much. All of the comments are 
quite helpful. Thanks.

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Re: [RBW] Re: Hunqapillar (or other riv) as a dirt drop mountain bike?

[Patrick Moore]

Not if you position the bar high, above the saddle.

On Mon, Oct 12, 2015 at 9:51 PM, Clayton.sf  wrote:

> Drop bars on an mtb will always out your teeth closer to the stem than
> riser, jones, or flat bars. Be aware of this and dress accordingly.
>
> Clayton Scott
> SF, CA
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Hunqapillar (or other riv) as a dirt drop mountain bike?

[Patrick Moore]

True; I was thinking of my Maes Parallels, where off road I generally ride
on the ramps or hoods.

OTOH, there is no grip more secure, off road or on, than in the hooks (I've
tried half a dozen different "off road drop bars" though I didn't like
them). I don't think that one need worry about his teeth.

Patrick Moore, mtbs since 1989, drop bars off road since 2000.

On Wed, Oct 14, 2015 at 8:22 AM, Clayton.sf  wrote:

> Bar height has nothing to do with this. If you are in the drops which is
> where you mostly ride on a drop bar Mtb your teeth are closer to the stem
> no matter the bar height.
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: KATY TRAIL ARTICLE

[Jim Bronson]

I was in Lexington the last week of August getting stepdaughter checked
into her first semester at UK and the weather made me wish I had brought my
Riv!  It was positively glorious!

Perhaps that is atypical for the area, I don't know, but it was really nice
compared to Austin, Texas during any time in August.

-Jim

On Tue, Oct 13, 2015 at 2:54 PM, RJM  wrote:

> Yeah, riding in that area in the summer just isn't fun...heck, riding
> where I live (West Kentucky, isn't fun in the summer...especially August.)
>
> There is a fun town on that trail called Hermann. It has a winery, and
> their Octoberfest is awesome. It is well worth the journey there during
> fall to make it during their Octoberfest.
>
>
> My friend who has ridden both the GAP/ C and the Katy prefers the GAP
> trail. Better scenery.
>
> Are they allowing camping on the Katy trail yet?
>
>
> On Tuesday, October 13, 2015 at 10:42:23 AM UTC-5, Paul Brodek wrote:
>
>> Exec Summary: It's hard for me to recommend the Katy Trail as a
>> destination trip, unless you relish the challenge/experience of riding the
>> 2nd-longest trail in the country (it was still the longest when I rode it).
>> If you're going to be nearby, no reason not to check it out. Avoid summer
>> heat, and do some research into which sections might offer the best
>> scenery. I'd probably enjoy it more today, with more trail riding
>> experience under my belt and nicer tires to ride. But I'd rather try the
>> GAP first, or somewhere else with more topography.
>>
>> I didn't read the article, they wanted me to click on a survey or
>> sumpthin first, and I'm home with a cold and grumpy so NO!
>>
>> I rode the Katy Trail for only a couple of days in the summer of '00,
>> squeezing the riding into a business trip. I rode a steel Fuji Cross with
>> fattish but not-particularly-supple tires. IIRC I rode from east of St.
>> Joseph to St. Joseph, then west from St. Joseph. The first day was kind of
>> a half-day, maybe 20mi. The second day was going to be 40mi or so, but I
>> cut it a little short due to weather. Got a ride from west of St. Joseph
>> back to St. Louis the second day.
>>
>> It was very hot and humid, even for a Jersey boy, and on the second day I
>> was riding between two storm fronts. The hotel weather channel showed the
>> fronts 15mi apart, traveling at 10mph, so I figured if I left just after
>> the first front passed and kept around a 10mph avg, including stops, I'd
>> stay dry. Surprisingly this worked, I didn't get any rain while on the
>> trail, but the humidity kept me pretty damp. I got to the hotel that night
>> just before a third storm hit, which turned into a hellacious hailstorm
>> with golfball-sized chunks of ice that literally (and I'm old enough to
>> understand how to use "literally") left tens of millions of $$ of damage in
>> its wake. Hiding for safety in the empty bathtub while the room windows
>> were being battered by machine-gun ice was more memorable than the ride. I
>> thought the windows were going to shatter and send glass flying through the
>> room, but they held up. My rep's car was in the hail for a minute or so
>> before he got under an overpass, and the insurance company wrote the car
>> off as totaled. Fun.
>>
>> So the weather did not add to my enjoyment. The length of trail I rode
>> was crushed limestone, pretty well surfaced. I found the two days kind of
>> uninspiring. The trail was flat, of course, but so was all the surrounding
>> terrain. The Mississippi River was close by, but far enough away on
>> flatland that I don't remember seeing much of it. I didn't find the ride or
>> surroundings to be particularly scenic. Whatever small towns the trail went
>> through were nice, but the heat/humidity, and the moving storm fronts on
>> the second day, didn't encourage lingering or exploring. This was probably
>> my first time riding a trail, and I kind of felt like I was slogging along.
>> On the second day I noticed there was a small, very well-surfaced road just
>> a few feet away paralleling the trail, so I started riding on the road
>> instead. That was more fun than the trail.
>>
>> Since this sounds kinda negative, I decided to endure the Gazzette's
>> survey and read the article. I most definitely did not travel under a
>> canopy of trees, like it says in the article. Sounds like they had fun,
>> despite riding in August, I kinda didn't. But I was riding alone, first
>> time on a trail, crappy/scary weather, and I can be a Grumpy Gus when I'm
>> riding solo. Maybe when not riding solo, too...
>>
>> Paul Brodek
>> Hillsdale, NJ USA
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> On Sunday, October 11, 2015 at 3:37:54 PM UTC-4, Jon Dukeman in the
>> foothills of Colorado wrote:
>>>
>>> Todays travel section had a great article about the Katy Trail in
>>> Missouri.
>>> There must be some of you who have ridden it.
>>> If so, I'd like to hear about your experience, what time of year you
>>> went etc.etc..
>>> Here's the article:
>>>
>>>

[RBW] Re: BQ to publish study of pedal retention usefulness in Summer issue

[Rod Holland]

Oops, did miss it. It was a short sidebar to a review, "MKS Rinko Pedals". 
Best summary is last paragraph:

Retentionless pedals work great on flat roads. Uphills, especially short 
> rises, are easier when your feet are firmly attached to the pedals.


 As some of the folks on this thread have pointed out, there is a degree of 
rider familiarity with the equipment in play here; those of us who do this 
every day have hill climbing strategies, and that wasn't evaluated. This 
looks like an impression, made in good faith, not an exhaustive study.

rod

On Wednesday, October 14, 2015 at 10:20:23 AM UTC-4, Rod Holland wrote:
>
> Just scanned the tables of contents for the Summer and Autumn issues, and 
> didn't see it. Maybe I missed it.
>
> rod
>
> On Tuesday, October 13, 2015 at 2:18:13 PM UTC-4, George Schick wrote:
>>
>> Now that Summer is long past, does anyone who subscribes to BQ have a 
>> synopsis of what they found out about pedal retention usefulness that 
>> they'd like to share? 
>>
>>
>> On Friday, May 15, 2015 at 9:23:53 AM UTC-5, Patrick Moore wrote:
>>>
>>> Doubtless of interest to RBW listers. Quoted from the Compass blog for 
>>> those who don't read it or BQ.
>>>
>>> I'll be very interested myself, as someone hitherto convinced that 
>>> retention is a great help. If tests show that retention doesn't help, I'd 
>>> probably still keep retention on my fixed gears, for safety, and because 
>>> they do undoubtedly allow pulling up for more torque when climbing steep 
>>> hills, but would undoubtedly switch to platforms for my off road derailleur 
>>> bike.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> *Jayme Frye says:May 15, 2015 at 6:27 amI was with you up until SPD 
>>> clipless pedals. I am not convinced there is any need for retention systems 
>>> outside the ultra competitive world of pro cycling (primarily sprints). 
>>> Perhaps you could use your testing methods on the claims that pedal 
>>> retention systems are more efficient and allow the rider to produce more 
>>> power by pulling up. That would make for a great BQ article.CheersReplyJan 
>>> Heine, Editor, Bicycle Quarterly says:May 15, 2015 at 6:55 amWe did test 
>>> this. It’s in the Summer issue, which will come out soon…Reply*
>>>
>>> -- 
>>> Resumes, LinkedIn profiles, bios, and letters that get interviews.
>>> By-the-hour resume and LinkedIn coaching.
>>> Other professional writing services.
>>> http://www.resumespecialties.com/
>>> www.linkedin.com/in/patrickmooreresumespec/
>>> Patrick Moore
>>> Alburquerque, Nouvelle Mexique,  Vereinigte Staaten
>>>
>>> *
>>> *The point which is the pivot of the norm is the motionless center of a 
>>> circumference on the rim of which all conditions, distinctions, and 
>>> individualities revolve. *Chuang Tzu
>>>
>>> *Kinei hos eromenon. It moves as the being-loved. *Aristotle
>>>
>>> *The Love that moves the Sun and all the other stars. *Dante  
>>>
>>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Hunqapillar (or other riv) as a dirt drop mountain bike?

[Patrick Moore]

A related aside: I love drops (again, after a long journey, I've settled on
the Maes Parallel) for dirt, but OTOH, I've come full circle and now
dislike drops for singletrack, largely because "normal" drops put the brake
levers too far away, and "dirt" drops are uncomfortable, for me.

(I also *think* I'll like 26" wheels for technical stuff, tho' a 3" 26"
Knard might be the parrot's toothpaste. We'll see, as I have just traded
resume and LI work for a rather nice 1996 Bontrager Race Lite. Isn't a Race
Lite "rivendell-sh"?)

On Wed, Oct 14, 2015 at 8:30 AM, Patrick Moore  wrote:

> True; I was thinking of my Maes Parallels, where off road I generally ride
> on the ramps or hoods.
>
> OTOH, there is no grip more secure, off road or on, than in the hooks
> (I've tried half a dozen different "off road drop bars" though I didn't
> like them). I don't think that one need worry about his teeth.
>
> Patrick Moore, mtbs since 1989, drop bars off road since 2000.
>
> On Wed, Oct 14, 2015 at 8:22 AM, Clayton.sf  wrote:
>
>> Bar height has nothing to do with this. If you are in the drops which is
>> where you mostly ride on a drop bar Mtb your teeth are closer to the stem
>> no matter the bar height.
>>
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>
>
>
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>
> *
> *The point which is the pivot of the norm is the motionless center of a
> circumference on the rim of which all conditions, distinctions, and
> individualities revolve. *Chuang Tzu
>
> *Stat crux dum volvitur orbis.* Carthusian motto
>
>



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*
*The point which is the pivot of the norm is the motionless center of a
circumference on the rim of which all conditions, distinctions, and
individualities revolve. *Chuang Tzu

*Stat crux dum volvitur orbis.* Carthusian motto

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Re: [RBW] Groceries and baskets

[Montclair BobbyB]

A CB750 block!!! That's gotta be the all-time best!!!  You rock, Mark!!!

On Tuesday, October 13, 2015 at 11:08:12 AM UTC-4, Mark Reimer wrote:
>
> Here's some of my personal best loads - a 40lb bag of wood stove pellets 
> tied down to my Nitto Campee using a wire shelf to distribute the load. A 
> Honda cb750 engine block in a pannier, 24 beers, and a cord of wood. The 
> bike handled quite well all things considered!
>
>
>
> 
>
>
> 
>
>
> 
>
>
> 
>
>
> On Monday, October 12, 2015 at 7:29:44 PM UTC-5, Patrick Moore wrote:
>>
>> I've been carrying heavyish rear grocery loads on Rivendells since 1997 
>> or so. The secret is to use a very stiff rack, and I had very good luck 
>> with the Tubus Fly -- 11 oz, rated to 44 lb, which I've maxed out. The 
>> Cargo model is rated to 80 lb, IIRC.
>>
>> On Mon, Oct 12, 2015 at 3:03 PM, Fred Craven  
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Front or rear?
>>>
>>> Now that I'm able to ride a reasonably short distance without cardiac 
>>> arrest, I desire to go to our local grocery store and pick up a few items 
>>> for dinner (and you can be sure that I will get wine cheese and baguettes 
>>> at least once).
>>>
>>> To facilitate this chore I will need "on bike" storage: most likely a 
>>> basket. But where to put it, front or rear? My Rivendell Road Bike is of 
>>> the generation where extra braze-ons were not standard fare. But that's not 
>>> a problem. I think a front basket looks awesome, but rear storage might be 
>>> more stable. As I'm utterly ignorant on the ramifications of this choice so 
>>> I welcome your opinions.
>>>
>>> The geometry is Riv-road, with a delightfully short top tube (thanks to 
>>> Joel). I'm not sure if that affects things, but that's the situation.
>>>
>>> --
>>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google 
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>>> an email to rbw-owners-bun...@googlegroups.com.
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>>
>>
>>
>> -- 
>> Resumes, LinkedIn profiles, bios, and letters that get interviews.
>> By-the-hour resume and LinkedIn coaching.
>> Other professional writing services.
>> http://www.resumespecialties.com/
>> www.linkedin.com/in/patrickmooreresumespec/
>> Patrick Moore
>> Alburquerque, Nouvelle Mexique,  Vereinigte Staaten
>>
>> *
>> *The point which is the pivot of the norm is the motionless center of a 
>> circumference on the rim of which all conditions, distinctions, and 
>> individualities revolve. *Chuang Tzu
>>
>> *Stat crux dum volvitur orbis.* Carthusian motto
>>  
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: New fat 700 tires! 700x42 ultra light

[lukeheller]

Oh yeah, it shimmys with or without the saddle bag by the way. But I put a 
lot of effort into front loading that bike to reduce shimmy. I only use a 
saddle bag on it for 1200's or unsupported 600kms.

On Wednesday, October 14, 2015 at 12:04:20 PM UTC-4, lukeheller wrote:
>
> This custom 700c NFE shimmys.
> It's about a 60x60.
> Seat tube angle is 71.5.
> Fork rake is ~75
>
> The shimmy isn't a problem unless i let go of the bars *AND* lean 
> backwards. But then, it is a problem.
>
> I use a TOKEN needle bearing headset. That helped but didn't fully remove 
> the issue.
>
> Different tire sizes/suppleness affects shimmy. I run 700x35 kojacks. 
> Shimmys with no hands on bars leaning back.
> If I run it with 700x28 marathon plus, shimmy is significantly reduced. 
> But those tires feel dead so I don't ride them.
> I'd be curious to see what those fat supple beasts would do to my shimmy 
> problem. Probably not help! Yet I'd like to try them.
>
> On Saturday, October 10, 2015 at 6:53:59 PM UTC-4, Mike Schiller wrote:
>>
>> Shimmy on an NFE?... I'd like to see that bike and how it's loaded/built. 
>>  My Matthews uses  similar tubing ( 8/5/8 OS) and geometry as the NFE and I 
>> don't get any shimmy at all. The NFE has a similar tubeset to  a Hilsen 
>> BTW.   So either they have too much weight up high or something else is 
>> going on.
>>
>> back to original  subject... I'd love to try those tires on my Bantam. It 
>> was designed around 44 mm tires and fenders. Wonder it they are tubeless 
>> compatible? 
>>
>> ~mike
>> Carlsbad Ca
>>
>> On Saturday, October 10, 2015 at 11:22:41 AM UTC-7, hsmitham wrote:
>>>
>>> So yes!! I've been thinking on these same lines. I like the Elephant NFE 
>>> but have heard even with the low trail fork there's some shimmy. Never 
>>> ridden one myself. I love the idea of a bike with a light tube set capable 
>>> of running 42mm+  CX & slick tires. I suppose some are calling it a monster 
>>> cross. Just thinking about my ultimate adventure bike.
>>>
>>> ~Hugh 
>>>
>>>


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[RBW] Re: BQ to publish study of pedal retention usefulness in Summer issue

[Rod Holland]

Just scanned the tables of contents for the Summer and Autumn issues, and 
didn't see it. Maybe I missed it.

rod

On Tuesday, October 13, 2015 at 2:18:13 PM UTC-4, George Schick wrote:
>
> Now that Summer is long past, does anyone who subscribes to BQ have a 
> synopsis of what they found out about pedal retention usefulness that 
> they'd like to share? 
>
>
> On Friday, May 15, 2015 at 9:23:53 AM UTC-5, Patrick Moore wrote:
>>
>> Doubtless of interest to RBW listers. Quoted from the Compass blog for 
>> those who don't read it or BQ.
>>
>> I'll be very interested myself, as someone hitherto convinced that 
>> retention is a great help. If tests show that retention doesn't help, I'd 
>> probably still keep retention on my fixed gears, for safety, and because 
>> they do undoubtedly allow pulling up for more torque when climbing steep 
>> hills, but would undoubtedly switch to platforms for my off road derailleur 
>> bike.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> *Jayme Frye says:May 15, 2015 at 6:27 amI was with you up until SPD 
>> clipless pedals. I am not convinced there is any need for retention systems 
>> outside the ultra competitive world of pro cycling (primarily sprints). 
>> Perhaps you could use your testing methods on the claims that pedal 
>> retention systems are more efficient and allow the rider to produce more 
>> power by pulling up. That would make for a great BQ article.CheersReplyJan 
>> Heine, Editor, Bicycle Quarterly says:May 15, 2015 at 6:55 amWe did test 
>> this. It’s in the Summer issue, which will come out soon…Reply*
>>
>> -- 
>> Resumes, LinkedIn profiles, bios, and letters that get interviews.
>> By-the-hour resume and LinkedIn coaching.
>> Other professional writing services.
>> http://www.resumespecialties.com/
>> www.linkedin.com/in/patrickmooreresumespec/
>> Patrick Moore
>> Alburquerque, Nouvelle Mexique,  Vereinigte Staaten
>>
>> *
>> *The point which is the pivot of the norm is the motionless center of a 
>> circumference on the rim of which all conditions, distinctions, and 
>> individualities revolve. *Chuang Tzu
>>
>> *Kinei hos eromenon. It moves as the being-loved. *Aristotle
>>
>> *The Love that moves the Sun and all the other stars. *Dante  
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: All arounder Handlebar recommendations GO!

[RJM]

Well, I personally think drops are where it's at for an all around bar, 
especially on a bike that has canti posts and allows some serious braking. 
Nitto Noodles work well as an all around bar with really comfortable hand 
positions. 
 
Now, I will say I really liked the Nitto mustache bars I used on a Jamis 
Aurora. They gave a few hand positions and you could get yourself down into 
a more aggressive position with holding the bends too. I've had Albatross 
bars and those are good for a bike that I'm not going to try to "perform" 
on. 
 
For mountain biking I still like a flat bar (my mountain bike is a newer 
Trek fuel ex, so it's not rivy at all). The flat bars seem to give enough 
leverage where I can move that front wheel around obstacles with authority. 
I'm not a great, graceful mountain biker, so the extra "authority" is often 
needed. 
 
So...All around I would go with Noodles...my go fast Roadeo has Mark's bars 
which I like a lotgetting more into the dirt and trail riding I would 
opt for something like a mustache bar. 
 

On Tuesday, October 13, 2015 at 9:45:35 PM UTC-5, drew wrote:

> I have a sam and a hunqapillar. sam had mustache bars, hunq had albatross. 
> Then the hunq got albastache and the sam got the old albatross bars because 
> I figured it was silly to have 2 bikes with similar bars. Long story short, 
> the albatross bars on the sam feel way too upright for my liking (and sam 
> is my "roadyish" bike). I'm aware of all the nitto/riv models, but what do 
> people like for an all around bar? 
>
> Looking for a couple hand positions, not fully upright, faster feeling 
> bar, mostly road riding with a little dirt. Solo, all purpose/no purpose 
> rides. 
> I haven't ridden drops since a fixed gear bike got me into bikes (and away 
> from fixed gears). I'm not super excited about drops but am somewhat 
> curious about the low rise dirt drop style bars. What's out there that I 
> should be considering?
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Compass Knickers

[Daniel D.]

Nice, besides length what alterations are you planning?

On Wednesday, October 14, 2015 at 10:06:52 AM UTC-7, Beth H wrote:
>
> I am making my own fall-winter knicks from an old pair of corduroy slacks. 
> I will share pix when they're done.
> I got the slacks out of a "free" box on the curb and I'm quite handy with 
> a needle so my cost for alterations is basically just my time.
> I appreciate companies offering their designs, but the prices are beyond 
> me.
> Consider reworking a garment another form of Made In The USA.
> Beth in PDX
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: All arounder Handlebar recommendations GO!

[Jim Bronson]

On Wed, Oct 14, 2015 at 9:14 AM, Ron Mc  wrote:

> Riveldell Mark's bar,  Nitto 177


177 is the Noodle model number.  Mark's Bar is Nitto 178, and from the
description on Rivendell's page, sounds like it was developed from the 185.

http://www.rivbike.com/product-p/hb6.htm



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Re: [RBW] Darning wool socks

[Aaron Young]

Thanks for the suggestions.  I'm going to try darning.  If I have any
success I'll report back.

-Aaron Young
The Dalles, OR

On Wed, Oct 14, 2015 at 7:45 AM, Patrick Moore  wrote:

> If you tend to wear holes in good socks, as I do with my big or even
> longer 2nd toes (heels last forever), and if you want workable but quick
> results without having to think much about it, I've long since found that
> cross -stitching and crudely reweaving with regular thread and needle works
> fine, if it looks crude. The secret is not to pull the gap closed so much
> as "cover it up" with thread, though you do in fact pull it together to
> some extent. It takes me less than 10 minutes a hole including threading
> the needle with my poor nearsight vision and putting the kit back into the
> cupbord.
>
> I had several pairs of Rivendell heavy wool socks circa 2008 or so that my
> toes wore through in the blink of an eye, and I repeatedly "darned" these
> as above until I got tired of doing so and tossed them earlier this year.
>
> But my "method" has allowed up to 9 additional lives for certain nice wool
> socks.
>
> A previous owner of the wonderful Cycles Wolfe Biene retro wool jersey I
> own (front pockets!!) fixed several moth holes by carefully sewing little
> patches of cloth around the perimeter of the patches, inside the holes.
> It's neat, though said person did use white cloth, which I camouflaged with
> a yellow marker. It's hard to see the repairs.
>
> On Wed, Oct 14, 2015 at 8:13 AM, Eunice Chang 
> wrote:
>
>> Here you go:
>>
>> http://www.knitty.com/ISSUEsummer08/FEATsum08TT.html - it tells you all
>> the equipment you need, such as a darning egg (or mushroom) and tapestry
>> needle.
>>
>> I don't know how thick the yarn is, but you can probably use sock yarn if
>> you go to a yarn shop. They're wool reinforced with a bit of nylon so they
>> can stand up to wear and tear. You probably can weave in yarn as many times
>> as you want. Avoid short-lived fibers such as merino or angora or cashmere-
>> they'll just result in more holes.
>>
>> The other option is to get thin (but flexible) felt squares and to sew it
>> to the heel. The felt will mold to the heel and might last longer than the
>> sock yarn, though it may also stretch the existing area it is connected to.
>>
>> Mostly, though, I just stuff the sock with batting and knot it and give
>> it to my dog.
>>
>> -E.
>>
>> On Tue, Oct 13, 2015 at 6:47 PM, Aaron Young <1ce...@gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>>> The heels of my wool socks I bought from Riv are getting pretty thin. I
>>> thought I would try to reinforce them by darning.  Has anyone tried that?
>>> Success or failure?  Which type of wool did you use?
>>>
>>> Please, help me get out of this heel hole. :)
>>>
>>> Thanks,
>>>
>>> Aaron
>>>
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>>
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>
>
>
> --
> Resumes, LinkedIn profiles, bios, and letters that get interviews.
> By-the-hour resume and LinkedIn coaching.
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> Patrick Moore
> Alburquerque, Nouvelle Mexique,  Vereinigte Staaten
>
> *
> *The point which is the pivot of the norm is the motionless center of a
> circumference on the rim of which all conditions, distinctions, and
> individualities revolve. *Chuang Tzu
>
> *Stat crux dum volvitur orbis.* Carthusian motto
>
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Joe Appaloosa geometry

[EGNolan]

One li'l thing that may also prove to be more Hunq/Atlantis than 
Atlantis/Hillborne is wheel size. Looks like the small J. Appaloosa had 26" 
wheels. Going 26" for small sizes would veer in the direction of 
Hunq/Atlantis & make it even more of a touring bike in the traditional 
sense than the 650b wheels on the smaller Hillbornes . I'm looking forward 
to a bike w/ more clearance & longer stays than the HIllborne that is 
equally affordable. I prefer canti's or V brakes over sidepulls & I think 
the App will be a winner on these accounts and probably many more that I 
don't know about yet. As always, just my  $.02...

Best,
Eric


>

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[RBW] FS: Canvas Bags - Front Bag w/ Pockets, Saddle Wedge, Saddlebag, Front Small Boxy Prototype

[David Banzer]

Clearing out bags that I've made for fun in addition to orders I've had.
All are a little cheaper than normal, and have free shipping - if you'd 
like something else that I have in my webstore, let me know and those items 
will ship free as well.
Follow the provided link to my webstore at treetop.bigcartel.com to order.
Payment can be made with a debit/credit card or via Paypal.
If you have any questions, please contact me offlist if you can.
Thanks,
David
Chicago

1. Saddle Wedge - tan canvas - $45 shipped - 
http://treetop.bigcartel.com/product/medium-saddle-wedge-ready-made

2. Deluxe Saddle Wedges - 3 available - orange, black w/ tan leather, or 
black w/ brown leather - $50 shipped each - 
http://treetop.bigcartel.com/product/deluxe-saddle-wedge-ready-made

3. Front Bar Bag w/ Pockets - rolltop front bag with 2 3d side pockets, 
flaps secure with elastic cord/hooks, fancier leather on this one - $75 
shipped - 
http://treetop.bigcartel.com/product/front-bar-bag-w-pockets-ready-made

4. Saddlebag - gray canvas, traditional saddlebag design - I've been using 
this one, so it's slightly dirty - $65 shipped - 
http://treetop.bigcartel.com/product/saddlebag-gray-canvas-brown-leather

5. Front Boxy Bar Bag - prototype design, side sleeves with flaps that 
secure w/ elastic cord/hooks - $30 shipped - 
http://treetop.bigcartel.com/product/boxy-bar-bag-prototype

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Re: [RBW] Re: Compass Knickers

[Beth H]

I am making my own fall-winter knicks from an old pair of corduroy slacks. I 
will share pix when they're done.
I got the slacks out of a "free" box on the curb and I'm quite handy with a 
needle so my cost for alterations is basically just my time.
I appreciate companies offering their designs, but the prices are beyond me.
Consider reworking a garment another form of Made In The USA.
Beth in PDX

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[RBW] Re: All arounder Handlebar recommendations GO!

[David Banzer]

The Jitensha bar is 26.0mm clamp, so unless you have a 26.0mm stem with a 
shim to 25.4mm for the Albatross bars, you'll need a different stem.
David
Chicago

On Wednesday, October 14, 2015 at 10:47:56 AM UTC-5, drew wrote:
>
> thanks all. 
> im not entirely opposed to drops. if it wasnt a whole other can of worms 
> and didnt require a different sized stem and brake levers, i'd probably try 
> noodles before anything else.. and may still be convinced that that is the 
> way to go.  the jitensa shape makes sense in my mind, and would be a 
> cheaper swap. 
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: All arounder Handlebar recommendations GO!

['Hudson Doerge' via RBW Owners Bunch]

I have jones bend bars on my mtb and really like them. Would definitely 
consider them for an all rounder setup. And the bend bars are cheaper than loop 
or cut jones bars. The map/ahearne bar looks awesome for a more road oriented, 
narrower alternative to the jones and it comes in a quill stem friendly clamp 
diameter. 

Hudson in ATX 

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[RBW] Re: All arounder Handlebar recommendations GO!

[Ron Mc]

Ahearne MAP bar is 25.4 mm clamp, and available in same width as Jitensa 
(575), and wider (615). 
 http://www.ahearnecycles.com/shop/ahearnemap-handlebar

On Wednesday, October 14, 2015 at 11:26:36 AM UTC-5, David Banzer wrote:
>
> The Jitensha bar is 26.0mm clamp, so unless you have a 26.0mm stem with a 
> shim to 25.4mm for the Albatross bars, you'll need a different stem.
> David
> Chicago
>
>>
>>

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Re: [RBW] Re: New fat 700 tires! 700x42 ultra light

[Hugh Smitham]

Thanks for the feedback Luke. Beautiful build. Great to see you did the PR.

Tail Winds,

~Hugh
On Oct 14, 2015 9:06 AM, "lukeheller"  wrote:

> Oh yeah, it shimmys with or without the saddle bag by the way. But I put a
> lot of effort into front loading that bike to reduce shimmy. I only use a
> saddle bag on it for 1200's or unsupported 600kms.
>
> On Wednesday, October 14, 2015 at 12:04:20 PM UTC-4, lukeheller wrote:
>>
>> This custom 700c NFE shimmys.
>> It's about a 60x60.
>> Seat tube angle is 71.5.
>> Fork rake is ~75
>>
>> The shimmy isn't a problem unless i let go of the bars *AND* lean
>> backwards. But then, it is a problem.
>>
>> I use a TOKEN needle bearing headset. That helped but didn't fully remove
>> the issue.
>>
>> Different tire sizes/suppleness affects shimmy. I run 700x35 kojacks.
>> Shimmys with no hands on bars leaning back.
>> If I run it with 700x28 marathon plus, shimmy is significantly reduced.
>> But those tires feel dead so I don't ride them.
>> I'd be curious to see what those fat supple beasts would do to my shimmy
>> problem. Probably not help! Yet I'd like to try them.
>>
>> On Saturday, October 10, 2015 at 6:53:59 PM UTC-4, Mike Schiller wrote:
>>>
>>> Shimmy on an NFE?... I'd like to see that bike and how it's
>>> loaded/built.  My Matthews uses  similar tubing ( 8/5/8 OS) and geometry as
>>> the NFE and I don't get any shimmy at all. The NFE has a similar tubeset to
>>>  a Hilsen BTW.   So either they have too much weight up high or something
>>> else is going on.
>>>
>>> back to original  subject... I'd love to try those tires on my Bantam.
>>> It was designed around 44 mm tires and fenders. Wonder it they are tubeless
>>> compatible?
>>>
>>> ~mike
>>> Carlsbad Ca
>>>
>>> On Saturday, October 10, 2015 at 11:22:41 AM UTC-7, hsmitham wrote:

 So yes!! I've been thinking on these same lines. I like the Elephant
 NFE but have heard even with the low trail fork there's some shimmy. Never
 ridden one myself. I love the idea of a bike with a light tube set capable
 of running 42mm+  CX & slick tires. I suppose some are calling it a monster
 cross. Just thinking about my ultimate adventure bike.

 ~Hugh


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Re: [RBW] Re: KATY TRAIL ARTICLE

[RJM]

Yeah, this year it has been relatively cooler and we are expecting to have 
a bad winter (bad here means snow stays on the ground for over a 
week)I'm on the western end of the state and it has different weather 
than Lexington most times which seems to be a little cooler and less humid 
than us. 
 
I will say that the last three weeks or so the weather has been absolutely 
wonderful. 
 

On Wednesday, October 14, 2015 at 10:59:11 AM UTC-5, Jim Bronson wrote:

> I was in Lexington the last week of August getting stepdaughter checked 
> into her first semester at UK and the weather made me wish I had brought my 
> Riv!  It was positively glorious!   
>
> Perhaps that is atypical for the area, I don't know, but it was really 
> nice compared to Austin, Texas during any time in August.
>
> -Jim
>
> On Tue, Oct 13, 2015 at 2:54 PM, RJM  
> wrote:
>
>> Yeah, riding in that area in the summer just isn't fun...heck, riding 
>> where I live (West Kentucky, isn't fun in the summer...especially August.)  
>>  
>> There is a fun town on that trail called Hermann. It has a winery, and 
>> their Octoberfest is awesome. It is well worth the journey there during 
>> fall to make it during their Octoberfest.
>>  
>>  
>> My friend who has ridden both the GAP/ C and the Katy prefers the GAP 
>> trail. Better scenery. 
>>  
>> Are they allowing camping on the Katy trail yet?
>>  
>>  
>> On Tuesday, October 13, 2015 at 10:42:23 AM UTC-5, Paul Brodek wrote:
>>
>>> Exec Summary: It's hard for me to recommend the Katy Trail as a 
>>> destination trip, unless you relish the challenge/experience of riding the 
>>> 2nd-longest trail in the country (it was still the longest when I rode it). 
>>> If you're going to be nearby, no reason not to check it out. Avoid summer 
>>> heat, and do some research into which sections might offer the best 
>>> scenery. I'd probably enjoy it more today, with more trail riding 
>>> experience under my belt and nicer tires to ride. But I'd rather try the 
>>> GAP first, or somewhere else with more topography.
>>>
>>> I didn't read the article, they wanted me to click on a survey or 
>>> sumpthin first, and I'm home with a cold and grumpy so NO!
>>>
>>> I rode the Katy Trail for only a couple of days in the summer of '00, 
>>> squeezing the riding into a business trip. I rode a steel Fuji Cross with 
>>> fattish but not-particularly-supple tires. IIRC I rode from east of St. 
>>> Joseph to St. Joseph, then west from St. Joseph. The first day was kind of 
>>> a half-day, maybe 20mi. The second day was going to be 40mi or so, but I 
>>> cut it a little short due to weather. Got a ride from west of St. Joseph 
>>> back to St. Louis the second day. 
>>>
>>> It was very hot and humid, even for a Jersey boy, and on the second day 
>>> I was riding between two storm fronts. The hotel weather channel showed the 
>>> fronts 15mi apart, traveling at 10mph, so I figured if I left just after 
>>> the first front passed and kept around a 10mph avg, including stops, I'd 
>>> stay dry. Surprisingly this worked, I didn't get any rain while on the 
>>> trail, but the humidity kept me pretty damp. I got to the hotel that night 
>>> just before a third storm hit, which turned into a hellacious hailstorm 
>>> with golfball-sized chunks of ice that literally (and I'm old enough to 
>>> understand how to use "literally") left tens of millions of $$ of damage in 
>>> its wake. Hiding for safety in the empty bathtub while the room windows 
>>> were being battered by machine-gun ice was more memorable than the ride. I 
>>> thought the windows were going to shatter and send glass flying through the 
>>> room, but they held up. My rep's car was in the hail for a minute or so 
>>> before he got under an overpass, and the insurance company wrote the car 
>>> off as totaled. Fun.
>>>
>>> So the weather did not add to my enjoyment. The length of trail I rode 
>>> was crushed limestone, pretty well surfaced. I found the two days kind of 
>>> uninspiring. The trail was flat, of course, but so was all the surrounding 
>>> terrain. The Mississippi River was close by, but far enough away on 
>>> flatland that I don't remember seeing much of it. I didn't find the ride or 
>>> surroundings to be particularly scenic. Whatever small towns the trail went 
>>> through were nice, but the heat/humidity, and the moving storm fronts on 
>>> the second day, didn't encourage lingering or exploring. This was probably 
>>> my first time riding a trail, and I kind of felt like I was slogging along. 
>>> On the second day I noticed there was a small, very well-surfaced road just 
>>> a few feet away paralleling the trail, so I started riding on the road 
>>> instead. That was more fun than the trail. 
>>>
>>> Since this sounds kinda negative, I decided to endure the Gazzette's 
>>> survey and read the article. I most definitely did not travel under a 
>>> canopy of trees, like it says in the article. Sounds like they had fun, 

[RBW] Re: Joe Appaloosa geometry

[iamkeith]

Man, it's been driving me nuts for quite a while, trying to remember where 
I'd first heard that the new appaloosa was going to have long chainstays.  
But I finally figured it out:  It's in a post by Grant,  in this thread:

https://groups.google.com/forum/#!msg/rbw-owners-bunch/urGzPAzOsj4/LfDsmtn9ccYJ

Another thought I had before locating this:  The Hillbourne used to have 
cantilever brakes, like the Hunquapillar.  The Hunquapillar used to have 
parallel, double top tubes like the Hillbourne, and less tire clearance.   
But both models have longer and more sloped top tubes than the Atlantis.   
If they just increased the clearance of the Hillbourne, *without* also 
lengthening the chainstays, wouldn't it essentially just be a Hunquapillar?

On Tuesday, October 13, 2015 at 10:23:52 AM UTC-6, Garth wrote:

>
>   Exactly !   Proto means prototype , which explains itself .  Riv selling 
> a proto-type frame means nothing as to whether or not that particular frame 
> is what is to come . 
>
>
>
>
> On Tuesday, October 13, 2015 at 12:14:00 PM UTC-4, Joe Bernard wrote:
>>
>> The problem here is the concept for this bike has bounced around a lot 
>> since the original Mystery Bikes were produced, and I'm not convinced the 
>> Protovelos were much more than design exercises. The only thing they nailed 
>> down was a head badge. 
>>
>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: PSA: Cunningham medical fund

[Bill Lindsay]

Even more bump-worthy, you are now Rivendell incentivized to dig deeper (in 
$20 increments)

http://rivbike.tumblr.com/

If you donate again, and this time do so with your Riv customer number in 
your first name, Riv will give you half your donation as a Riv-credit. 
 Their goal is that we as a group give $10,000 in total.  That's a pretty 
good goal.  Rather than thinking of it as a donation-discount, I'm going to 
think about it as matching.  When I donate $100, it's $50 of mine and $50 
is RBW matching my donation.  

On Monday, October 12, 2015 at 3:49:17 PM UTC-7, Bill Lindsay wrote:
>
> Polite but determined bump, just in case some have missed it.  Some news:
>
> 1.  Jan did a very nice blog post about it:  
> https://janheine.wordpress.com/2015/10/09/charlie-cunningham-needs-our-help/
> 2.  They are at nearly 50% of their goal of $100k
> 3.  Here's the URL:  https://www.gofundme.com/w85tn3dg
>
> Consider donating and spreading the word if you haven't already.  Scanning 
> the donors, our friend Harry Hugel has donated 4 times by my count.  
>
>
> On Tuesday, October 6, 2015 at 1:21:32 PM UTC-7, Bill Lindsay wrote:
>>
>> https://www.gofundme.com/w85tn3dg
>>
>> Charlie Cunningham suffered a head injury (among other injuries) in a 
>> bike crash.  If you've ever felt the twang to thank Charlie for his 
>> visionary contributions to cycling (particularly cycling off pavement), 
>> this is a good opportunity to act on that twang.  
>>
>> thoughts, prayers, and a few dollars
>>
>> Bill Lindsay
>> El Cerrito, CA
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: All arounder Handlebar recommendations GO!

[ant ritchey]

my shoulders/anatomy feel a little pinched on the jitensha's, but I see 
where they'd work for folks.  i'm a six foot four broad shouldered bloke.

i just swapped albatross for ahearne maps on my "all rounder" (atlantis), 
the bike on which i'm about to do this oregon outback thing i've heard so 
much about, so we'll see.

i've been comfy and pleased with the albatross for many years, many miles, 
many types of roads and riding.  and i'd never sell them.  get noodles high 
enough and they're pretty all-roundish, especially if yer sam is roady-ish.


On Tuesday, October 13, 2015 at 7:45:35 PM UTC-7, drew wrote:
>
> I have a sam and a hunqapillar. sam had mustache bars, hunq had albatross. 
> Then the hunq got albastache and the sam got the old albatross bars because 
> I figured it was silly to have 2 bikes with similar bars. Long story short, 
> the albatross bars on the sam feel way too upright for my liking (and sam 
> is my "roadyish" bike). I'm aware of all the nitto/riv models, but what do 
> people like for an all around bar?
>
> Looking for a couple hand positions, not fully upright, faster feeling 
> bar, mostly road riding with a little dirt. Solo, all purpose/no purpose 
> rides. 
> I haven't ridden drops since a fixed gear bike got me into bikes (and away 
> from fixed gears). I'm not super excited about drops but am somewhat 
> curious about the low rise dirt drop style bars. What's out there that I 
> should be considering?
>

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[RBW] Re: Best rear support rack for med sadlesack?

[Takashi]

I use Mark's Rack and Saddlesack Medium.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/77318553@N08/15730742765/
https://www.flickr.com/photos/77318553@N08/15887587466/

I cut off the tombstone since I personally prefer the bag to be attached to 
seatpost and not to tombstone, but if you don't like the bag rubbing your 
thighs, just use the rack with tombstone.
I have no issues so far, but if you put too heavy things in your 
saddlesack, the portion of the bag where it is not supported by the rack 
may sag, since surface of Mark's Rack is smaller than Saddlesack Medium.

I think you will have difficulty mounting Nitto NR-21 on Hunq, since the 
hole on seatstay bridge is drilled for fenders, not brakes.

By the way, Bike Friday's Folding Rear Rack works pretty well, though you 
will have to buy couple pieces of metal stays at your local hardware store 
to attach the rack to seatstays.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/77318553@N08/15501647352/

Takashi


2015年10月14日水曜日 7時12分16秒 UTC+9 Daniel Jackson:
>
> This is for use on a Hunq. 
>
> Was thinking about Mark's but may be too short?
> Anybody have any experience with this rack 
> ? Would seat stay bridge 
> accommodate this?
>
> Any other recommendations?
>
> Thanks much,
> D.
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: All arounder Handlebar recommendations GO!

[Ron Mc]

thanks Jim, I knew there was a difference with the Mark's bar having 
shorter reach.  I tried to find it on Alex and picked the wrong one.  

On Wednesday, October 14, 2015 at 1:32:32 PM UTC-5, Jim Bronson wrote:
>
>
> On Wed, Oct 14, 2015 at 9:14 AM, Ron Mc  
> wrote:
>
>> Riveldell Mark's bar,  Nitto 177
>
>
> 177 is the Noodle model number.  Mark's Bar is Nitto 178, and from the 
> description on Rivendell's page, sounds like it was developed from the 185.
>
> http://www.rivbike.com/product-p/hb6.htm
>
>
>
> -- 
> --
> signature goes here
>

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RE: [RBW] Re: BQ to publish study of pedal retention usefulness in Summer issue

[Allingham II, Thomas J]

"My summation is this : there is nothing to gain or lose regardless of any 
choice"

Lack of any consequence to any decision might provide a disincentive to give 
any thought to the decision itself.  Is this really what you meant to say?

From: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com 
[mailto:rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Garth
Sent: Wednesday, October 14, 2015 4:27 PM
To: RBW Owners Bunch
Subject: [RBW] Re: BQ to publish study of pedal retention usefulness in Summer 
issue


   As always of course , everyone decides for themselves !  Just because "j. 
doe" says it is so does not make it so .

I ride up all sorts of short steep hills over hill and dale in Crocs for 
goodness sakes  . .  .. which are essentially foam .  Crocs slides even, not 
the clog style with the strap on back. .  Bacǩ when I thought I was some-body 
with some-thing to prove, I had to have clipless.  Now being no-body there is 
no-thing to prove to any-body .

My summation is this : there is nothing to gain or lose regardless of any choice



On Wednesday, October 14, 2015 at 10:28:41 AM UTC-4, Rod Holland wrote:


Retentionless pedals work great on flat roads. Uphills, especially short rises, 
are easier when your feet are firmly attached to the pedals.

 As some of the folks on this thread have pointed out, there is a degree of 
rider familiarity with the equipment in play here; those of us who do this 
every day have hill climbing strategies, and that wasn't evaluated. This looks 
like an impression, made in good faith, not an exhaustive study.

rod

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delete the original email (and any copy of any email) and any printout thereof.

Further information about the firm, a list of the Partners and their 
professional qualifications will be provided upon request.

==

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Re: [RBW] Re: BQ to publish study of pedal retention usefulness in Summer issue

[ascpgh]

Jan's point rang very true for me too. 

All data aside, my adult cycling experience grew out of self-conducted 
recovery from an injury that made my connection to the bike less Mark 
Cavendish or Keirin racers, more about how to manage my altered 
proprioception and all-around poise that came from a solid connection to 
the bike in all phases of riding, easy or hard. 

If you don't know your foot has floated off the pedal at TDC, 
characteristics of pedals and footwear really fade on your list of 
preferences. I just needed a way to keep that one on the pedal until the 
downstroke. Wore through several shoes' uppers with strap buckles before 
clipless (Patrick has a nice pair of my old cage/strap pedals).

Better now, but I feel how completely, discretely ingrained my snapped-in 
foot connection is to everything involved in my physical act of pedaling 
and the resulting  input it provides being my baseline. I shudder at the 
memory of places I rode my mountain bike in the '80s with clips and straps 
providing that necessary connection. Was a big fan of William Neely's 
illustrations of mountain biking skills, techniques (and consequences). His 
river guides were pretty awesome too. 

Andy Cheatham
Pittsburgh

On Wednesday, October 14, 2015 at 10:27:06 AM UTC-4, Patrick Moore wrote:
>
> It was not as big a feature as we had hoped; merely a sidebar to a bike 
> review where Jan briefly tried MKS Urban pedals with half clips and didn't 
> like them. His earlier blog post had let us hope that they were going to do 
> a study.
>
> Study or not, I have to say that I agree with Jan, to the point where I'd 
> rather walk in SPDs than ride in street shoes. (If I have to put on special 
> shoes for pedaling, I'd rather wear ones with cleats, and SPDs are my 
> choice.) I briefly put the Urbans on the Dahon and hated them, which is odd 
> because 5-10 years ago I used to like MKS GR-9s with clips and straps, and 
> the Urbans are better than the GR-9s.
>
> On Tue, Oct 13, 2015 at 12:18 PM, George Schick  > wrote:
>
>> Now that Summer is long past, does anyone who subscribes to BQ have a 
>> synopsis of what they found out about pedal retention usefulness that 
>> they'd like to share? 
>>
>>
>> On Friday, May 15, 2015 at 9:23:53 AM UTC-5, Patrick Moore wrote:
>>>
>>> Doubtless of interest to RBW listers. Quoted from the Compass blog for 
>>> those who don't read it or BQ.
>>>
>>> I'll be very interested myself, as someone hitherto convinced that 
>>> retention is a great help. If tests show that retention doesn't help, I'd 
>>> probably still keep retention on my fixed gears, for safety, and because 
>>> they do undoubtedly allow pulling up for more torque when climbing steep 
>>> hills, but would undoubtedly switch to platforms for my off road derailleur 
>>> bike.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> *Jayme Frye says:May 15, 2015 at 6:27 amI was with you up until SPD 
>>> clipless pedals. I am not convinced there is any need for retention systems 
>>> outside the ultra competitive world of pro cycling (primarily sprints). 
>>> Perhaps you could use your testing methods on the claims that pedal 
>>> retention systems are more efficient and allow the rider to produce more 
>>> power by pulling up. That would make for a great BQ article.CheersReplyJan 
>>> Heine, Editor, Bicycle Quarterly says:May 15, 2015 at 6:55 amWe did test 
>>> this. It’s in the Summer issue, which will come out soon…Reply*
>>>
>>> -- 
>>> Resumes, LinkedIn profiles, bios, and letters that get interviews.
>>> By-the-hour resume and LinkedIn coaching.
>>> Other professional writing services.
>>> http://www.resumespecialties.com/
>>> www.linkedin.com/in/patrickmooreresumespec/
>>> Patrick Moore
>>> Alburquerque, Nouvelle Mexique,  Vereinigte Staaten
>>>
>>> *
>>> *The point which is the pivot of the norm is the motionless center of a 
>>> circumference on the rim of which all conditions, distinctions, and 
>>> individualities revolve. *Chuang Tzu
>>>
>>> *Kinei hos eromenon. It moves as the being-loved. *Aristotle
>>>
>>> *The Love that moves the Sun and all the other stars. *Dante  
>>>
>> -- 
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>> "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
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>> email to rbw-owners-bun...@googlegroups.com .
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>> .
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>> For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
>>
>
>
>
> -- 
> Resumes, LinkedIn profiles, bios, and letters that get interviews.
> By-the-hour resume and LinkedIn coaching.
> Other professional writing services.
> http://www.resumespecialties.com/
> www.linkedin.com/in/patrickmooreresumespec/
> Patrick Moore
> Alburquerque, Nouvelle Mexique,  Vereinigte Staaten
>
> 

[RBW] Re: PSA: Cunningham medical fund

[Ryan Fleming]

Actually...that's a terrific idea...I'm sure Charlie Cunningham and Jacquie 
Phelan need all the help they can ge;  certainly more than I need a credit. 
Just waiting for RBW to email my customer # cause I can't remember what it 
is. I reread the interview in the RRwhat a tragedy!. I sure hope that 
he'll recover. But it surely must help that so many people are supportive 
and generous. 

Bless them both.

On Wednesday, October 14, 2015 at 1:41:19 PM UTC-5, Bill Lindsay wrote:
>
> Even more bump-worthy, you are now Rivendell incentivized to dig deeper 
> (in $20 increments)
>
> http://rivbike.tumblr.com/
>
> If you donate again, and this time do so with your Riv customer number in 
> your first name, Riv will give you half your donation as a Riv-credit. 
>  Their goal is that we as a group give $10,000 in total.  That's a pretty 
> good goal.  Rather than thinking of it as a donation-discount, I'm going to 
> think about it as matching.  When I donate $100, it's $50 of mine and $50 
> is RBW matching my donation.  
>
> On Monday, October 12, 2015 at 3:49:17 PM UTC-7, Bill Lindsay wrote:
>>
>> Polite but determined bump, just in case some have missed it.  Some news:
>>
>> 1.  Jan did a very nice blog post about it:  
>> https://janheine.wordpress.com/2015/10/09/charlie-cunningham-needs-our-help/
>> 2.  They are at nearly 50% of their goal of $100k
>> 3.  Here's the URL:  https://www.gofundme.com/w85tn3dg
>>
>> Consider donating and spreading the word if you haven't already. 
>>  Scanning the donors, our friend Harry Hugel has donated 4 times by my 
>> count.  
>>
>>
>> On Tuesday, October 6, 2015 at 1:21:32 PM UTC-7, Bill Lindsay wrote:
>>>
>>> https://www.gofundme.com/w85tn3dg
>>>
>>> Charlie Cunningham suffered a head injury (among other injuries) in a 
>>> bike crash.  If you've ever felt the twang to thank Charlie for his 
>>> visionary contributions to cycling (particularly cycling off pavement), 
>>> this is a good opportunity to act on that twang.  
>>>
>>> thoughts, prayers, and a few dollars
>>>
>>> Bill Lindsay
>>> El Cerrito, CA
>>>
>>

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[RBW] Long Shot FT/WTB Nitto Campee Rear 700c

[drew]

thought i would throw this out there before buying new, in case someone is 
on the opposite side of this desire. 

my nitto big rear rack (large size like THIS 
) for your campee rear rack like 
this THIS 
.
 
 I have an r-14, as well, that i would be willing to part with, if that is 
more desirable.

i would finally be up for buying one, if you want to sell it for less than 
the 180$ that alexscycle is selling them for. 

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[RBW] Re: BQ to publish study of pedal retention usefulness in Summer issue

[Edwin W]

>
> As I ride without retention, I think of myself JUST like this guy!
>
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5ud5T5I4XcA

Riding free,

Edwin

>   
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Compass Knickers

[Beth H]

Since I sew by hand, I won't be doing anything terrifically fancy.
These are dress slack I got too big for; so some of the leftover will be
used to expand the waistline up a size (see photo for how I recently did
this with a pair of Swrve pants:
https://www.flickr.com/photos/bethness/21799276151/)

I will likely just hem them, gather in an inch or two on each leg and add a
1" wide strip with buttons and buttonholes (and yes, I know how to make
buttonholes by hand as well -- thanks Mom!).

Once I cut down the legs I'll have plenty of material left to make them
into plus-two-and-a-halfs or so.

Beth

On Wed, Oct 14, 2015 at 11:37 AM, Daniel D.  wrote:

> Nice, besides length what alterations are you planning?
>
>
> On Wednesday, October 14, 2015 at 10:06:52 AM UTC-7, Beth H wrote:
>>
>> I am making my own fall-winter knicks from an old pair of corduroy
>> slacks. I will share pix when they're done.
>> I got the slacks out of a "free" box on the curb and I'm quite handy with
>> a needle so my cost for alterations is basically just my time.
>> I appreciate companies offering their designs, but the prices are beyond
>> me.
>> Consider reworking a garment another form of Made In The USA.
>> Beth in PDX
>>
>> --
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-- 
Beth Hamon
Jewish educator, songleader & cantorial soloist
http://www.beth-hamon-music.com

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[RBW] Re: BQ to publish study of pedal retention usefulness in Summer issue

[Garth]

   As always of course , everyone decides for themselves !  Just because 
"j. doe" says it is so does not make it so .  

I ride up all sorts of short steep hills over hill and dale in Crocs for 
goodness sakes  . .  .. which are essentially foam .  Crocs slides even, 
not the clog style with the strap on back. .  Bacǩ when I thought I was 
some-body with some-thing to prove, I had to have clipless.  Now being 
no-body there is no-thing to prove to any-body . 

My summation is this : 
*there is nothing to gain or lose regardless of any choice *


On Wednesday, October 14, 2015 at 10:28:41 AM UTC-4, Rod Holland wrote:
>
>
>
> Retentionless pedals work great on flat roads. Uphills, especially short 
>> rises, are easier when your feet are firmly attached to the pedals.
>
>
>  As some of the folks on this thread have pointed out, there is a degree 
> of rider familiarity with the equipment in play here; those of us who do 
> this every day have hill climbing strategies, and that wasn't evaluated. 
> This looks like an impression, made in good faith, not an exhaustive study.
>
> rod
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: PSA: Cunningham medical fund

[sameness]

Assuming you've made an online purchase from RBW before, you can also 
search your registered email for "www.rivbike.com Order Confirmation".

Your customer ID number will be in the top right corner (HTML version) or 
first line (plain text version) of the email.

Jeff Hagedorn
Los Angeles, CA USA

On Wednesday, October 14, 2015 at 1:51:26 PM UTC-7, Bill Lindsay wrote:
>
> PSA:  How to find your Customer ID #
>
> You need to know: how to log in to your account on Rivbike.com
> You need to have bought something in the last 3 years
>
> 1.  Go to www.rivbike.com
> 2.  Scroll to the bottom, click My Account and log in
> 3.  Click on "Print Invoices"
> 4.  From the drop-down, select some time period in which you bought 
> something, click Go
> 5.  Next to each invoice is a "View or Change Order" button.  Pick one and 
> click it
> 6.  In the upper right you'll see in blue "print an invoice"
> 7.  That pulls up a pop-up showing a pdf preview of that invoice.  Your 
> customer number is in the upper left.
>
> Bill Lindsay
> El Cerrito, CA
>
> On Wednesday, October 14, 2015 at 1:00:57 PM UTC-7, Ryan Fleming wrote:
>>
>> Actually...that's a terrific idea...I'm sure Charlie Cunningham and 
>> Jacquie Phelan need all the help they can ge;  certainly more than I need a 
>> credit. Just waiting for RBW to email my customer # cause I can't remember 
>> what it is. I reread the interview in the RRwhat a tragedy!. I sure 
>> hope that he'll recover. But it surely must help that so many people are 
>> supportive and generous. 
>>
>> Bless them both.
>>
>> On Wednesday, October 14, 2015 at 1:41:19 PM UTC-5, Bill Lindsay wrote:
>>>
>>> Even more bump-worthy, you are now Rivendell incentivized to dig deeper 
>>> (in $20 increments)
>>>
>>> http://rivbike.tumblr.com/
>>>
>>> If you donate again, and this time do so with your Riv customer number 
>>> in your first name, Riv will give you half your donation as a Riv-credit. 
>>>  Their goal is that we as a group give $10,000 in total.  That's a pretty 
>>> good goal.  Rather than thinking of it as a donation-discount, I'm going to 
>>> think about it as matching.  When I donate $100, it's $50 of mine and $50 
>>> is RBW matching my donation.  
>>>
>>> On Monday, October 12, 2015 at 3:49:17 PM UTC-7, Bill Lindsay wrote:

 Polite but determined bump, just in case some have missed it.  Some 
 news:

 1.  Jan did a very nice blog post about it:  
 https://janheine.wordpress.com/2015/10/09/charlie-cunningham-needs-our-help/
 2.  They are at nearly 50% of their goal of $100k
 3.  Here's the URL:  https://www.gofundme.com/w85tn3dg

 Consider donating and spreading the word if you haven't already. 
  Scanning the donors, our friend Harry Hugel has donated 4 times by my 
 count.  


 On Tuesday, October 6, 2015 at 1:21:32 PM UTC-7, Bill Lindsay wrote:
>
> https://www.gofundme.com/w85tn3dg
>
> Charlie Cunningham suffered a head injury (among other injuries) in a 
> bike crash.  If you've ever felt the twang to thank Charlie for his 
> visionary contributions to cycling (particularly cycling off pavement), 
> this is a good opportunity to act on that twang.  
>
> thoughts, prayers, and a few dollars
>
> Bill Lindsay
> El Cerrito, CA
>


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[RBW] Re: PSA: Cunningham medical fund

[Bill Lindsay]

PSA:  How to find your Customer ID #

You need to know: how to log in to your account on Rivbike.com
You need to have bought something in the last 3 years

1.  Go to www.rivbike.com
2.  Scroll to the bottom, click My Account and log in
3.  Click on "Print Invoices"
4.  From the drop-down, select some time period in which you bought 
something, click Go
5.  Next to each invoice is a "View or Change Order" button.  Pick one and 
click it
6.  In the upper right you'll see in blue "print an invoice"
7.  That pulls up a pop-up showing a pdf preview of that invoice.  Your 
customer number is in the upper left.

Bill Lindsay
El Cerrito, CA

On Wednesday, October 14, 2015 at 1:00:57 PM UTC-7, Ryan Fleming wrote:
>
> Actually...that's a terrific idea...I'm sure Charlie Cunningham and 
> Jacquie Phelan need all the help they can ge;  certainly more than I need a 
> credit. Just waiting for RBW to email my customer # cause I can't remember 
> what it is. I reread the interview in the RRwhat a tragedy!. I sure 
> hope that he'll recover. But it surely must help that so many people are 
> supportive and generous. 
>
> Bless them both.
>
> On Wednesday, October 14, 2015 at 1:41:19 PM UTC-5, Bill Lindsay wrote:
>>
>> Even more bump-worthy, you are now Rivendell incentivized to dig deeper 
>> (in $20 increments)
>>
>> http://rivbike.tumblr.com/
>>
>> If you donate again, and this time do so with your Riv customer number in 
>> your first name, Riv will give you half your donation as a Riv-credit. 
>>  Their goal is that we as a group give $10,000 in total.  That's a pretty 
>> good goal.  Rather than thinking of it as a donation-discount, I'm going to 
>> think about it as matching.  When I donate $100, it's $50 of mine and $50 
>> is RBW matching my donation.  
>>
>> On Monday, October 12, 2015 at 3:49:17 PM UTC-7, Bill Lindsay wrote:
>>>
>>> Polite but determined bump, just in case some have missed it.  Some news:
>>>
>>> 1.  Jan did a very nice blog post about it:  
>>> https://janheine.wordpress.com/2015/10/09/charlie-cunningham-needs-our-help/
>>> 2.  They are at nearly 50% of their goal of $100k
>>> 3.  Here's the URL:  https://www.gofundme.com/w85tn3dg
>>>
>>> Consider donating and spreading the word if you haven't already. 
>>>  Scanning the donors, our friend Harry Hugel has donated 4 times by my 
>>> count.  
>>>
>>>
>>> On Tuesday, October 6, 2015 at 1:21:32 PM UTC-7, Bill Lindsay wrote:

 https://www.gofundme.com/w85tn3dg

 Charlie Cunningham suffered a head injury (among other injuries) in a 
 bike crash.  If you've ever felt the twang to thank Charlie for his 
 visionary contributions to cycling (particularly cycling off pavement), 
 this is a good opportunity to act on that twang.  

 thoughts, prayers, and a few dollars

 Bill Lindsay
 El Cerrito, CA

>>>

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Re: [RBW] Sources for wood fenders, particularly bamboo

[Jeff Lesperance]

Ah, I guess I focused on narrow and missed frugal How cheap are you
finding other, too-wide wood fenders? At a price that'd be ok for
experimenting with narrowing them?

On Wednesday, October 14, 2015, Patrick Moore  wrote:

> Jeff: I've talked to Cody (via email) and he is presently at the top of my
> list. My post was meant to ask about cheaper alternatives, as well as to
> raise the other questions I posted.
>
> His fenders, to judge by the photos, are indeed wonderful. If I order from
> him, I will probably choose a simpler design and product, as the most
> elaborate ones are almost too rich for my taste.
>
> A bit of wax twice a year is no problem. Frankly, although I like Honjos
> and Berthouds and VOs, and have used all (not to mention 4 or 5 different
> brands of plastic fenders) I expect that wood and bamboo, well used, are
> even stronger than metal or plastic for this purpose; just a novice's
> guess, but aren't wood or bamboo, with their fibrous elasticity, the best
> materials to stand up to the sort of bashing that you get from shoving your
> bike into racks and the backs of small sedans?
>
> The wooden fenders on the Dahon are obviously cheap relatives. But they
> work, as I had occasion to discover after a recent SW downpour, when I rode
> to the store through 3" deep puddles. You don't have to ride far to learn
> how effective your fenders are.
>
> On Wed, Oct 14, 2015 at 5:47 PM, Jeff Lesperance <
> jeff.lespera...@gmail.com
> > wrote:
>
>> Patrick - I'd recommend that you send a question to Cody via his website (
>> http://www.woodysfenders.com/store/index.php?main_page=contact_us),
>> regarding your width and radius needs. I've bought 2 sets of fenders and 2
>> chop chort fenders, and 3 of the 4 purchases had some customization
>> involved. I bet he'd be happy to make a set of narrower 26" fenders, and
>> you can ask about customizing the hardware options as well. I bought extra
>> hardware from him at a reasonable price, you could likely ask to not have
>> the hardware installed if you'd like to configure it yourself.
>>
>> Regarding finish and durability, I've probably not ridden mine long
>> enough, or, they're just holding up remarkably well. Cody includes some
>> notation suggesting the use of car wax a couple times a year. I've not done
>> so yet, and I've been through some gnarly rain and muddy conditions to no
>> noticeable ill effect. I really probably should do something before winter
>> weather sets in.
>>
>> On Wed, Oct 14, 2015 at 7:22 PM, Patrick Moore > > wrote:
>>
>>> One last question: I think of using a *single* eyelet from a Berthoud
>>> fender on a flat wood fender. I know that such attachment makes metal
>>> liable to crack, but is not wood tougher in this respect? I'd washer it
>>> well front and back.
>>>
>>> Is this a good or a bad idea?
>>>
>>> On Wed, Oct 14, 2015 at 5:20 PM, Patrick Moore >> > wrote:
>>>
 Educate me on wooden fenders. I would prefer metal, but no one makes
 metal fenders that easily fit my particular frame, which needs ~40 mm X 559
 and with a shallow curve profile -- the closest available in the US and
 Britain, to my queries, is the Berthoud 650B X 40, but that has a too tight
 cross section.

 I know about Woody's custom fenders, and Cody is at the top of my list
 right now, but does anyone else make a fender, flat or shallowly-curved,
 that will fit into a tight space over a 26 X 33 mm tire? (There is ample
 space, but only for a road-width fender in the 26" size.)

 I know I can make a 27" X 40 mm SKS longboard work, but I'd rather have
 something with Berthoud-type hardware.

 For pricing reasons -- even my spendthrift soul balks at $200 shipped
 for custom curved fenders -- I think I'll choose flat fenders; customs at
 $135, about what a pair of Honjos cost.

 Are there sources for cheaper, flat wood fenders in 26" but narrower
 than 2+ inches? All I've seen in 26" are these wide ones.

 Next question: can one safely, for the long term, coax a tighter bend
 into a 27" flat fender? If so, I could buy a cheaper 27" X 40 mm and cut
 and shape to fit.

 3d question: are wood fenders durable, without repeated varnishing?
 Here in high desert ABQ, I'd probably have to take the sun as much as water
 into account.

 Last question: is bamboo better than other woods for fenders? I have no
 reason to think it is, except that I've played around with bamboo -- I
 lived as a boy in bamboo countries, India and Kenya -- and I know it is
 pretty darn flexible and strong.

 Any other advice about wood fenders will be welcome.

 Note: I know that flat fenders won't give me 

[RBW] Sources for wood fenders, particularly bamboo

[Patrick Moore]

Educate me on wooden fenders. I would prefer metal, but no one makes metal
fenders that easily fit my particular frame, which needs ~40 mm X 559 and
with a shallow curve profile -- the closest available in the US and
Britain, to my queries, is the Berthoud 650B X 40, but that has a too tight
cross section.

I know about Woody's custom fenders, and Cody is at the top of my list
right now, but does anyone else make a fender, flat or shallowly-curved,
that will fit into a tight space over a 26 X 33 mm tire? (There is ample
space, but only for a road-width fender in the 26" size.)

I know I can make a 27" X 40 mm SKS longboard work, but I'd rather have
something with Berthoud-type hardware.

For pricing reasons -- even my spendthrift soul balks at $200 shipped for
custom curved fenders -- I think I'll choose flat fenders; customs at $135,
about what a pair of Honjos cost.

Are there sources for cheaper, flat wood fenders in 26" but narrower than
2+ inches? All I've seen in 26" are these wide ones.

Next question: can one safely, for the long term, coax a tighter bend into
a 27" flat fender? If so, I could buy a cheaper 27" X 40 mm and cut and
shape to fit.

3d question: are wood fenders durable, without repeated varnishing? Here in
high desert ABQ, I'd probably have to take the sun as much as water into
account.

Last question: is bamboo better than other woods for fenders? I have no
reason to think it is, except that I've played around with bamboo -- I
lived as a boy in bamboo countries, India and Kenya -- and I know it is
pretty darn flexible and strong.

Any other advice about wood fenders will be welcome.

Note: I know that flat fenders won't give me protection as good as deeper
profile fenders, but I've used flat ones enough to know that they're
certainly better than nothing: when puddles are shallow, they work fine;
and when they're deep, even Honjos or Berthouds don't protect you fully. A
40 mm wide flat fender will be very useful.

-- 
Resumes, LinkedIn profiles, bios, and letters that get interviews.
By-the-hour resume and LinkedIn coaching.
Other professional writing services.
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www.linkedin.com/in/patrickmooreresumespec/
Patrick Moore
Alburquerque, Nouvelle Mexique,  Vereinigte Staaten

*
*The point which is the pivot of the norm is the motionless center of a
circumference on the rim of which all conditions, distinctions, and
individualities revolve. *Chuang Tzu

*Stat crux dum volvitur orbis.* Carthusian motto

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Re: [RBW] Re: Sources for wood fenders, particularly bamboo

[Jeff Lesperance]

Patrick - I'd recommend that you send a question to Cody via his website (
http://www.woodysfenders.com/store/index.php?main_page=contact_us),
regarding your width and radius needs. I've bought 2 sets of fenders and 2
chop chort fenders, and 3 of the 4 purchases had some customization
involved. I bet he'd be happy to make a set of narrower 26" fenders, and
you can ask about customizing the hardware options as well. I bought extra
hardware from him at a reasonable price, you could likely ask to not have
the hardware installed if you'd like to configure it yourself.

Regarding finish and durability, I've probably not ridden mine long enough,
or, they're just holding up remarkably well. Cody includes some notation
suggesting the use of car wax a couple times a year. I've not done so yet,
and I've been through some gnarly rain and muddy conditions to no
noticeable ill effect. I really probably should do something before winter
weather sets in.

On Wed, Oct 14, 2015 at 7:22 PM, Patrick Moore  wrote:

> One last question: I think of using a *single* eyelet from a Berthoud
> fender on a flat wood fender. I know that such attachment makes metal
> liable to crack, but is not wood tougher in this respect? I'd washer it
> well front and back.
>
> Is this a good or a bad idea?
>
> On Wed, Oct 14, 2015 at 5:20 PM, Patrick Moore 
> wrote:
>
>> Educate me on wooden fenders. I would prefer metal, but no one makes
>> metal fenders that easily fit my particular frame, which needs ~40 mm X 559
>> and with a shallow curve profile -- the closest available in the US and
>> Britain, to my queries, is the Berthoud 650B X 40, but that has a too tight
>> cross section.
>>
>> I know about Woody's custom fenders, and Cody is at the top of my list
>> right now, but does anyone else make a fender, flat or shallowly-curved,
>> that will fit into a tight space over a 26 X 33 mm tire? (There is ample
>> space, but only for a road-width fender in the 26" size.)
>>
>> I know I can make a 27" X 40 mm SKS longboard work, but I'd rather have
>> something with Berthoud-type hardware.
>>
>> For pricing reasons -- even my spendthrift soul balks at $200 shipped for
>> custom curved fenders -- I think I'll choose flat fenders; customs at $135,
>> about what a pair of Honjos cost.
>>
>> Are there sources for cheaper, flat wood fenders in 26" but narrower than
>> 2+ inches? All I've seen in 26" are these wide ones.
>>
>> Next question: can one safely, for the long term, coax a tighter bend
>> into a 27" flat fender? If so, I could buy a cheaper 27" X 40 mm and cut
>> and shape to fit.
>>
>> 3d question: are wood fenders durable, without repeated varnishing? Here
>> in high desert ABQ, I'd probably have to take the sun as much as water into
>> account.
>>
>> Last question: is bamboo better than other woods for fenders? I have no
>> reason to think it is, except that I've played around with bamboo -- I
>> lived as a boy in bamboo countries, India and Kenya -- and I know it is
>> pretty darn flexible and strong.
>>
>> Any other advice about wood fenders will be welcome.
>>
>> Note: I know that flat fenders won't give me protection as good as deeper
>> profile fenders, but I've used flat ones enough to know that they're
>> certainly better than nothing: when puddles are shallow, they work fine;
>> and when they're deep, even Honjos or Berthouds don't protect you fully. A
>> 40 mm wide flat fender will be very useful.
>>
>> --
>> Resumes, LinkedIn profiles, bios, and letters that get interviews.
>> By-the-hour resume and LinkedIn coaching.
>> Other professional writing services.
>> http://www.resumespecialties.com/
>> www.linkedin.com/in/patrickmooreresumespec/
>> Patrick Moore
>> Alburquerque, Nouvelle Mexique,  Vereinigte Staaten
>>
>> *
>> *The point which is the pivot of the norm is the motionless center of a
>> circumference on the rim of which all conditions, distinctions, and
>> individualities revolve. *Chuang Tzu
>>
>> *Stat crux dum volvitur orbis.* Carthusian motto
>>
>>
>
>
>
> --
> Resumes, LinkedIn profiles, bios, and letters that get interviews.
> By-the-hour resume and LinkedIn coaching.
> Other professional writing services.
> http://www.resumespecialties.com/
> www.linkedin.com/in/patrickmooreresumespec/
> Patrick Moore
> Alburquerque, Nouvelle Mexique,  Vereinigte Staaten
>
> *
> *The point which is the pivot of the norm is the motionless center of a
> circumference on the rim of which all conditions, distinctions, and
> individualities revolve. *Chuang Tzu
>
> *Stat crux dum volvitur orbis.* Carthusian motto
>
>
> --
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
> "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an
> email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
> To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com.

Re: [RBW] Re: Sources for wood fenders, particularly bamboo

[Patrick Moore]

Jeff: I've talked to Cody (via email) and he is presently at the top of my
list. My post was meant to ask about cheaper alternatives, as well as to
raise the other questions I posted.

His fenders, to judge by the photos, are indeed wonderful. If I order from
him, I will probably choose a simpler design and product, as the most
elaborate ones are almost too rich for my taste.

A bit of wax twice a year is no problem. Frankly, although I like Honjos
and Berthouds and VOs, and have used all (not to mention 4 or 5 different
brands of plastic fenders) I expect that wood and bamboo, well used, are
even stronger than metal or plastic for this purpose; just a novice's
guess, but aren't wood or bamboo, with their fibrous elasticity, the best
materials to stand up to the sort of bashing that you get from shoving your
bike into racks and the backs of small sedans?

The wooden fenders on the Dahon are obviously cheap relatives. But they
work, as I had occasion to discover after a recent SW downpour, when I rode
to the store through 3" deep puddles. You don't have to ride far to learn
how effective your fenders are.

On Wed, Oct 14, 2015 at 5:47 PM, Jeff Lesperance 
wrote:

> Patrick - I'd recommend that you send a question to Cody via his website (
> http://www.woodysfenders.com/store/index.php?main_page=contact_us),
> regarding your width and radius needs. I've bought 2 sets of fenders and 2
> chop chort fenders, and 3 of the 4 purchases had some customization
> involved. I bet he'd be happy to make a set of narrower 26" fenders, and
> you can ask about customizing the hardware options as well. I bought extra
> hardware from him at a reasonable price, you could likely ask to not have
> the hardware installed if you'd like to configure it yourself.
>
> Regarding finish and durability, I've probably not ridden mine long
> enough, or, they're just holding up remarkably well. Cody includes some
> notation suggesting the use of car wax a couple times a year. I've not done
> so yet, and I've been through some gnarly rain and muddy conditions to no
> noticeable ill effect. I really probably should do something before winter
> weather sets in.
>
> On Wed, Oct 14, 2015 at 7:22 PM, Patrick Moore 
> wrote:
>
>> One last question: I think of using a *single* eyelet from a Berthoud
>> fender on a flat wood fender. I know that such attachment makes metal
>> liable to crack, but is not wood tougher in this respect? I'd washer it
>> well front and back.
>>
>> Is this a good or a bad idea?
>>
>> On Wed, Oct 14, 2015 at 5:20 PM, Patrick Moore 
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Educate me on wooden fenders. I would prefer metal, but no one makes
>>> metal fenders that easily fit my particular frame, which needs ~40 mm X 559
>>> and with a shallow curve profile -- the closest available in the US and
>>> Britain, to my queries, is the Berthoud 650B X 40, but that has a too tight
>>> cross section.
>>>
>>> I know about Woody's custom fenders, and Cody is at the top of my list
>>> right now, but does anyone else make a fender, flat or shallowly-curved,
>>> that will fit into a tight space over a 26 X 33 mm tire? (There is ample
>>> space, but only for a road-width fender in the 26" size.)
>>>
>>> I know I can make a 27" X 40 mm SKS longboard work, but I'd rather have
>>> something with Berthoud-type hardware.
>>>
>>> For pricing reasons -- even my spendthrift soul balks at $200 shipped
>>> for custom curved fenders -- I think I'll choose flat fenders; customs at
>>> $135, about what a pair of Honjos cost.
>>>
>>> Are there sources for cheaper, flat wood fenders in 26" but narrower
>>> than 2+ inches? All I've seen in 26" are these wide ones.
>>>
>>> Next question: can one safely, for the long term, coax a tighter bend
>>> into a 27" flat fender? If so, I could buy a cheaper 27" X 40 mm and cut
>>> and shape to fit.
>>>
>>> 3d question: are wood fenders durable, without repeated varnishing? Here
>>> in high desert ABQ, I'd probably have to take the sun as much as water into
>>> account.
>>>
>>> Last question: is bamboo better than other woods for fenders? I have no
>>> reason to think it is, except that I've played around with bamboo -- I
>>> lived as a boy in bamboo countries, India and Kenya -- and I know it is
>>> pretty darn flexible and strong.
>>>
>>> Any other advice about wood fenders will be welcome.
>>>
>>> Note: I know that flat fenders won't give me protection as good as
>>> deeper profile fenders, but I've used flat ones enough to know that they're
>>> certainly better than nothing: when puddles are shallow, they work fine;
>>> and when they're deep, even Honjos or Berthouds don't protect you fully. A
>>> 40 mm wide flat fender will be very useful.
>>>
>>> --
>>> Resumes, LinkedIn profiles, bios, and letters that get interviews.
>>> By-the-hour resume and LinkedIn coaching.
>>> Other professional writing services.
>>> http://www.resumespecialties.com/
>>> 

[RBW] Re: Sources for wood fenders, particularly bamboo

[Patrick Moore]

One last question: I think of using a *single* eyelet from a Berthoud
fender on a flat wood fender. I know that such attachment makes metal
liable to crack, but is not wood tougher in this respect? I'd washer it
well front and back.

Is this a good or a bad idea?

On Wed, Oct 14, 2015 at 5:20 PM, Patrick Moore  wrote:

> Educate me on wooden fenders. I would prefer metal, but no one makes metal
> fenders that easily fit my particular frame, which needs ~40 mm X 559 and
> with a shallow curve profile -- the closest available in the US and
> Britain, to my queries, is the Berthoud 650B X 40, but that has a too tight
> cross section.
>
> I know about Woody's custom fenders, and Cody is at the top of my list
> right now, but does anyone else make a fender, flat or shallowly-curved,
> that will fit into a tight space over a 26 X 33 mm tire? (There is ample
> space, but only for a road-width fender in the 26" size.)
>
> I know I can make a 27" X 40 mm SKS longboard work, but I'd rather have
> something with Berthoud-type hardware.
>
> For pricing reasons -- even my spendthrift soul balks at $200 shipped for
> custom curved fenders -- I think I'll choose flat fenders; customs at $135,
> about what a pair of Honjos cost.
>
> Are there sources for cheaper, flat wood fenders in 26" but narrower than
> 2+ inches? All I've seen in 26" are these wide ones.
>
> Next question: can one safely, for the long term, coax a tighter bend into
> a 27" flat fender? If so, I could buy a cheaper 27" X 40 mm and cut and
> shape to fit.
>
> 3d question: are wood fenders durable, without repeated varnishing? Here
> in high desert ABQ, I'd probably have to take the sun as much as water into
> account.
>
> Last question: is bamboo better than other woods for fenders? I have no
> reason to think it is, except that I've played around with bamboo -- I
> lived as a boy in bamboo countries, India and Kenya -- and I know it is
> pretty darn flexible and strong.
>
> Any other advice about wood fenders will be welcome.
>
> Note: I know that flat fenders won't give me protection as good as deeper
> profile fenders, but I've used flat ones enough to know that they're
> certainly better than nothing: when puddles are shallow, they work fine;
> and when they're deep, even Honjos or Berthouds don't protect you fully. A
> 40 mm wide flat fender will be very useful.
>
> --
> Resumes, LinkedIn profiles, bios, and letters that get interviews.
> By-the-hour resume and LinkedIn coaching.
> Other professional writing services.
> http://www.resumespecialties.com/
> www.linkedin.com/in/patrickmooreresumespec/
> Patrick Moore
> Alburquerque, Nouvelle Mexique,  Vereinigte Staaten
>
> *
> *The point which is the pivot of the norm is the motionless center of a
> circumference on the rim of which all conditions, distinctions, and
> individualities revolve. *Chuang Tzu
>
> *Stat crux dum volvitur orbis.* Carthusian motto
>
>



-- 
Resumes, LinkedIn profiles, bios, and letters that get interviews.
By-the-hour resume and LinkedIn coaching.
Other professional writing services.
http://www.resumespecialties.com/
www.linkedin.com/in/patrickmooreresumespec/
Patrick Moore
Alburquerque, Nouvelle Mexique,  Vereinigte Staaten

*
*The point which is the pivot of the norm is the motionless center of a
circumference on the rim of which all conditions, distinctions, and
individualities revolve. *Chuang Tzu

*Stat crux dum volvitur orbis.* Carthusian motto

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[RBW] Re: PSA: Cunningham medical fund

[Evan E.]

It's great that Grant and Riv are, as usual, being generous and awesome. So 
dig deep for Charlie, everybody. (I just made a second donation.)

Evan

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[RBW] The Tao of the Bosco Bar

[Daniel Jackson]

Tell me, friends, of all the wondrous ways there are to set up a Bosco Bar. 
Photos of setups would be much help. 

Thanks folks,
D.

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[RBW] Re: PSA: Cunningham medical fund

['Tim' via RBW Owners Bunch]

I just donated. Although it is great and generous (as always) of Riv, I will 
not take a credit from them for the donation. I don't want to profit from this. 
In return for foregoing the credit, I feel entitled to give my OT 2 cents that 
this is why we should vote for Bernie Sanders. So that we might no longer be 
the only developed country that considers healthcare a privilege instead of a 
right. This has been a public service announcement. Thank you.

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[RBW] Re: All arounder Handlebar recommendations GO!

[Ron Mc]

Since it came up, I'll throw in here.  The Jitensa (Nitto B2522), Ahearne 
MAP bar, and One One Mary are all the shape bar (based on the Jones H-bar), 
listed from narrowest to widest.  My Ahearne MAP bars are 615 mm.  Jitensa, 
575mm; MAP available in 615mm and also 575mm; and Mary bar 645mm.  
http://oldglorymtb.com/round-up-alternative-or-alt-mountain-bike-handlebars/ 
 

 




 

I built a very upright bike, though I can certainly lean into it.  Even 
though I used grips with no wrap, I do have two grip positions, hooking 
just inside the cork with knuckles against the shifter (my normal), and a 
rest position by reaching out wider on the grips.  
I don't need more - I regularly ride up to 50 mi, and have been over 65.  
While we have a tendency to lean on the bars, we're really not supposed to 
- that's what creates cervical strain/injury and at least part of hand 
numbness.  
Should be supporting our torso with our core muscles.  
That said, the shape of these bars makes for very natural hand position, 
though it did take me about 200 mi to dial in the tilt just right.  But 
after that, no hand numbness on any ride of any length.  

On Tuesday, October 13, 2015 at 10:28:47 PM UTC-5, dstein wrote:
>
> Oooh, this is gonna get a lot of responses I bet. 
>
> Honestly, the albastache's for me have been the overall best so far, for 
> multipurpose riding as they give an upright position *and* aggressive 
> aero position (with the big drawback being that the brake levers are not in 
> your hands for the upright bar end position). But like drop bars, 
> albastaches are pretty dependent on stem length and height (whereas 
> abatross, bosco's, and other upright bars are less so).  That being said, I 
> no longer have the albastache's on any of my bikes. 
>
> I still like drop bars for fast road riding and run them on my main road 
> bike: nothing beats the flat parts and brake hoods for cruising. I'm 
> currently running Jones Loop bars on my mountain bike and like them a lot 
> more than albastache and bullmoose for trail riding, and am really getting 
> into them for road riding too, but they are 31.8 so if you have a threaded 
> steerer you need an adapter which isn't ideal. 
>
> I hear the Ahearne Map bars are a really good all rounder. I may end up 
> replacing my jones with map bars next. 
>
> Handlebars are the cheaper and more fun way to change your bike without 
> having to pay for a new bike. I like experimenting with different setups.
>

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[RBW] Re: All arounder Handlebar recommendations GO!

[Matthew J]

I'm with Ron.  That bike is as all round as it gets for me.

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Re: [RBW] 2016 RAGBRAI

[Tim Gavin]

I will definitely ride part of RAGBRAI, but probably not the whole thing.
It will depend on the route.

Now a ride across southern Wisconsin would be more interesting to me.
There are lots of trails

and the countryside is gorgeous, with lots of serious climbing.

The Great River Trail starts north of La Crosse, so that trail would be
more practical if RAGBRAI ends in Northeastern Iowa next year.  But it
connects to the La Crosse River, Elroy-Sparta, and 400 trails
, which gets you
almost halfway across the state.  I rode the Elroy-Sparta as a young Boy
Scout and the tunnels were really cool (literally).

It sounds like the Ice Age Trail is primarily intended for hikers, but
bikes are tolerated in some sections.


Tim

On Wed, Oct 14, 2015 at 9:14 PM, Robert F. Harrison 
wrote:

> Aloha all,
>
> I'm thinking of doing my 3rd RAGBAI in 2016 and have a couple of questions
> - one not so important, but one a bit more interesting (to me).
>
> First, anyone else contemplating RAGBRAI 2016. There's no route yet, so
> it's just a thought for most.
>
> Second, has anyone ridden from eastern Iowa to Milwaukee?
>
> You see it's my 40th high school reunion next summer (Shorewood, WI - Go
> Greyhounds). I've suggested the first weekend in August as that would allow
> me to double dip by riding RAGBRAI across Iowa and then riding from there
> to Milwaukee. In fact, I pretty talked folks into the first weekend in
> August by saying I would ride across Iowa and Wisconsin.
>
> Of course as we don't know the terminus for RAGBRAI 2016 (nor will we till
> mid-January) so it's all up in the air, but it's not too early to start
> thinking about it.
>
> Some of it can be done on the Great River Trail (and that's on my list of
> things to do so this would be a nice taste).
>
> Other bits (in WI) can apparently be done on the Ice Age Scenic Trail.
>
> If anyone has any ideas, let me know, it's all in the initial planning
> stage right now.
>
> Inquiring minds want to know.
>
> Mahalo in advance,
>
> Bob
>
> --
> Robert Harrison
> Honolulu, HI
> rfharri...@gmail.com
> statrix.com
> Wu Name: Tha Eurythmic King of Nowhere
>
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>

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[RBW] Re: PSA: Cunningham medical fund

[Wayne Naha]

Walter White nods knowingly.

On Wednesday, October 14, 2015 at 9:19:30 PM UTC-4, Tim wrote:
>
> I just donated. Although it is great and generous (as always) of Riv, I 
> will not take a credit from them for the donation. I don't want to profit 
> from this. In return for foregoing the credit, I feel entitled to give my 
> OT 2 cents that this is why we should vote for Bernie Sanders. So that we 
> might no longer be the only developed country that considers healthcare a 
> privilege instead of a right. This has been a public service announcement. 
> Thank you.

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[RBW] Re: PSA: Cunningham medical fund

[Wayne Naha]

One thing I don't understand is why saving someone's life costs more than a

regular person can pay. And why some doctor's (usually the best ones) don't
take insurance.  I think that's wrong.  I mean, one of the big reasons why
my dad didn't want to get treatment at all in the first place was because he
didn't want to leave us behind with a huge debt. That's the thing about my
dad - he loves us more than anything. More than himself.  But we want him
around and we want him to try everything he can to stay with us as long as
possible. This surgery is the one chance there is to save his life.  And we
can't afford it. And every day that goes by is one less day I'll have with
him. And I don't want to tell my little sister about my dad.  I want her to
know him for herself.
On Wednesday, October 14, 2015 at 9:19:30 PM UTC-4, Tim wrote:
>
> I just donated. Although it is great and generous (as always) of Riv, I 
> will not take a credit from them for the donation. I don't want to profit 
> from this. In return for foregoing the credit, I feel entitled to give my 
> OT 2 cents that this is why we should vote for Bernie Sanders. So that we 
> might no longer be the only developed country that considers healthcare a 
> privilege instead of a right. This has been a public service announcement. 
> Thank you.

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Re: [RBW] Sources for wood fenders, particularly bamboo

[Patrick Moore]

Not too much cheaper! $99 seems to be a price point for stock 700C and 26 X
2/14" ready mades.

On Wed, Oct 14, 2015 at 7:14 PM, Jeff Lesperance 
wrote:

> Ah, I guess I focused on narrow and missed frugal How cheap are you
> finding other, too-wide wood fenders? At a price that'd be ok for
> experimenting with narrowing them?
>
>
> On Wednesday, October 14, 2015, Patrick Moore  wrote:
>
>> Jeff: I've talked to Cody (via email) and he is presently at the top of
>> my list. My post was meant to ask about cheaper alternatives, as well as to
>> raise the other questions I posted.
>>
>> His fenders, to judge by the photos, are indeed wonderful. If I order
>> from him, I will probably choose a simpler design and product, as the most
>> elaborate ones are almost too rich for my taste.
>>
>> A bit of wax twice a year is no problem. Frankly, although I like Honjos
>> and Berthouds and VOs, and have used all (not to mention 4 or 5 different
>> brands of plastic fenders) I expect that wood and bamboo, well used, are
>> even stronger than metal or plastic for this purpose; just a novice's
>> guess, but aren't wood or bamboo, with their fibrous elasticity, the best
>> materials to stand up to the sort of bashing that you get from shoving your
>> bike into racks and the backs of small sedans?
>>
>> The wooden fenders on the Dahon are obviously cheap relatives. But they
>> work, as I had occasion to discover after a recent SW downpour, when I rode
>> to the store through 3" deep puddles. You don't have to ride far to learn
>> how effective your fenders are.
>>
>> On Wed, Oct 14, 2015 at 5:47 PM, Jeff Lesperance <
>> jeff.lespera...@gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>>> Patrick - I'd recommend that you send a question to Cody via his website
>>> (http://www.woodysfenders.com/store/index.php?main_page=contact_us),
>>> regarding your width and radius needs. I've bought 2 sets of fenders and 2
>>> chop chort fenders, and 3 of the 4 purchases had some customization
>>> involved. I bet he'd be happy to make a set of narrower 26" fenders, and
>>> you can ask about customizing the hardware options as well. I bought extra
>>> hardware from him at a reasonable price, you could likely ask to not have
>>> the hardware installed if you'd like to configure it yourself.
>>>
>>> Regarding finish and durability, I've probably not ridden mine long
>>> enough, or, they're just holding up remarkably well. Cody includes some
>>> notation suggesting the use of car wax a couple times a year. I've not done
>>> so yet, and I've been through some gnarly rain and muddy conditions to no
>>> noticeable ill effect. I really probably should do something before winter
>>> weather sets in.
>>>
>>> On Wed, Oct 14, 2015 at 7:22 PM, Patrick Moore 
>>> wrote:
>>>
 One last question: I think of using a *single* eyelet from a Berthoud
 fender on a flat wood fender. I know that such attachment makes metal
 liable to crack, but is not wood tougher in this respect? I'd washer it
 well front and back.

 Is this a good or a bad idea?

 On Wed, Oct 14, 2015 at 5:20 PM, Patrick Moore 
 wrote:

> Educate me on wooden fenders. I would prefer metal, but no one makes
> metal fenders that easily fit my particular frame, which needs ~40 mm X 
> 559
> and with a shallow curve profile -- the closest available in the US and
> Britain, to my queries, is the Berthoud 650B X 40, but that has a too 
> tight
> cross section.
>
> I know about Woody's custom fenders, and Cody is at the top of my list
> right now, but does anyone else make a fender, flat or shallowly-curved,
> that will fit into a tight space over a 26 X 33 mm tire? (There is ample
> space, but only for a road-width fender in the 26" size.)
>
> I know I can make a 27" X 40 mm SKS longboard work, but I'd rather
> have something with Berthoud-type hardware.
>
> For pricing reasons -- even my spendthrift soul balks at $200 shipped
> for custom curved fenders -- I think I'll choose flat fenders; customs at
> $135, about what a pair of Honjos cost.
>
> Are there sources for cheaper, flat wood fenders in 26" but narrower
> than 2+ inches? All I've seen in 26" are these wide ones.
>
> Next question: can one safely, for the long term, coax a tighter bend
> into a 27" flat fender? If so, I could buy a cheaper 27" X 40 mm and cut
> and shape to fit.
>
> 3d question: are wood fenders durable, without repeated varnishing?
> Here in high desert ABQ, I'd probably have to take the sun as much as 
> water
> into account.
>
> Last question: is bamboo better than other woods for fenders? I have
> no reason to think it is, except that I've played around with bamboo -- I
> lived as a boy in bamboo countries, India and Kenya -- and I know it is
> pretty darn flexible and 

[RBW] 2016 RAGBRAI

[Robert F. Harrison]

Aloha all,

I'm thinking of doing my 3rd RAGBAI in 2016 and have a couple of questions
- one not so important, but one a bit more interesting (to me).

First, anyone else contemplating RAGBRAI 2016. There's no route yet, so
it's just a thought for most.

Second, has anyone ridden from eastern Iowa to Milwaukee?

You see it's my 40th high school reunion next summer (Shorewood, WI - Go
Greyhounds). I've suggested the first weekend in August as that would allow
me to double dip by riding RAGBRAI across Iowa and then riding from there
to Milwaukee. In fact, I pretty talked folks into the first weekend in
August by saying I would ride across Iowa and Wisconsin.

Of course as we don't know the terminus for RAGBRAI 2016 (nor will we till
mid-January) so it's all up in the air, but it's not too early to start
thinking about it.

Some of it can be done on the Great River Trail (and that's on my list of
things to do so this would be a nice taste).

Other bits (in WI) can apparently be done on the Ice Age Scenic Trail.

If anyone has any ideas, let me know, it's all in the initial planning
stage right now.

Inquiring minds want to know.

Mahalo in advance,

Bob

-- 
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Honolulu, HI
rfharri...@gmail.com
statrix.com
Wu Name: Tha Eurythmic King of Nowhere

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Re: [RBW] Darning wool socks

[cyclotourist]

BTW, what's the wool repair technique where you use a fluff ball of
wool and and needle to re-fill a hole?

On Wed, Oct 14, 2015 at 11:39 AM, Aaron Young <1ce...@gmail.com> wrote:
> Thanks for the suggestions.  I'm going to try darning.  If I have any
> success I'll report back.
>
> -Aaron Young
> The Dalles, OR
>
> On Wed, Oct 14, 2015 at 7:45 AM, Patrick Moore  wrote:
>>
>> If you tend to wear holes in good socks, as I do with my big or even
>> longer 2nd toes (heels last forever), and if you want workable but quick
>> results without having to think much about it, I've long since found that
>> cross -stitching and crudely reweaving with regular thread and needle works
>> fine, if it looks crude. The secret is not to pull the gap closed so much as
>> "cover it up" with thread, though you do in fact pull it together to some
>> extent. It takes me less than 10 minutes a hole including threading the
>> needle with my poor nearsight vision and putting the kit back into the
>> cupbord.
>>
>> I had several pairs of Rivendell heavy wool socks circa 2008 or so that my
>> toes wore through in the blink of an eye, and I repeatedly "darned" these as
>> above until I got tired of doing so and tossed them earlier this year.
>>
>> But my "method" has allowed up to 9 additional lives for certain nice wool
>> socks.
>>
>> A previous owner of the wonderful Cycles Wolfe Biene retro wool jersey I
>> own (front pockets!!) fixed several moth holes by carefully sewing little
>> patches of cloth around the perimeter of the patches, inside the holes. It's
>> neat, though said person did use white cloth, which I camouflaged with a
>> yellow marker. It's hard to see the repairs.
>>
>> On Wed, Oct 14, 2015 at 8:13 AM, Eunice Chang 
>> wrote:
>>>
>>> Here you go:
>>>
>>> http://www.knitty.com/ISSUEsummer08/FEATsum08TT.html - it tells you all
>>> the equipment you need, such as a darning egg (or mushroom) and tapestry
>>> needle.
>>>
>>> I don't know how thick the yarn is, but you can probably use sock yarn if
>>> you go to a yarn shop. They're wool reinforced with a bit of nylon so they
>>> can stand up to wear and tear. You probably can weave in yarn as many times
>>> as you want. Avoid short-lived fibers such as merino or angora or cashmere-
>>> they'll just result in more holes.
>>>
>>> The other option is to get thin (but flexible) felt squares and to sew it
>>> to the heel. The felt will mold to the heel and might last longer than the
>>> sock yarn, though it may also stretch the existing area it is connected to.
>>>
>>> Mostly, though, I just stuff the sock with batting and knot it and give
>>> it to my dog.
>>>
>>> -E.
>>>
>>> On Tue, Oct 13, 2015 at 6:47 PM, Aaron Young <1ce...@gmail.com> wrote:

 The heels of my wool socks I bought from Riv are getting pretty thin. I
 thought I would try to reinforce them by darning.  Has anyone tried that?
 Success or failure?  Which type of wool did you use?

 Please, help me get out of this heel hole. :)

 Thanks,

 Aaron

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>>
>>
>>
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>> Alburquerque, Nouvelle Mexique,  Vereinigte Staaten
>>
>> *
>> The point which is the pivot of the norm is the motionless center of a
>> circumference on the rim of which all conditions, distinctions, and
>> individualities revolve. Chuang Tzu
>>
>> Stat crux dum volvitur orbis. Carthusian motto
>>
>>
>>
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[RBW] The Tao of the Bosco Bar

[Dave]

Cork grips, Paul thumbies(installed reverse), some bar tape. Will dig up a photo

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[RBW] Re: All arounder Handlebar recommendations GO!

['hangtownmatt' via RBW Owners Bunch]

Drew,

Take a look at the Surly Open Bar:

http://surlybikes.com/parts/handlebars/open_bar

I choose the "zero rise" version for my Sam.  It has three solid hand 
positions which allow me to ride both upright and stretched out.  I 
installed this bar as a temporary solution and haven't looked back.  It's 
been over two years and the Noodles are just hanging up in the garage.  If  
black doesn't float your boat than just wrap them with the tape and color 
of your choice.

Matt

On Tuesday, October 13, 2015 at 7:45:35 PM UTC-7, drew wrote:
>
> I have a sam and a hunqapillar. sam had mustache bars, hunq had albatross. 
> Then the hunq got albastache and the sam got the old albatross bars because 
> I figured it was silly to have 2 bikes with similar bars. Long story short, 
> the albatross bars on the sam feel way too upright for my liking (and sam 
> is my "roadyish" bike). I'm aware of all the nitto/riv models, but what do 
> people like for an all around bar?
>
> Looking for a couple hand positions, not fully upright, faster feeling 
> bar, mostly road riding with a little dirt. Solo, all purpose/no purpose 
> rides. 
> I haven't ridden drops since a fixed gear bike got me into bikes (and away 
> from fixed gears). I'm not super excited about drops but am somewhat 
> curious about the low rise dirt drop style bars. What's out there that I 
> should be considering?
>

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[RBW] Re: All arounder Handlebar recommendations GO!

[Ron Mc]

Thanks Matthew - I built this bike for a 10-20 mi city greenway ride, but I 
can't leave it alone and my other bikes are getting lonely.  

On Wednesday, October 14, 2015 at 8:36:41 AM UTC-5, Matthew J wrote:
>
> I'm with Ron.  That bike is as all round as it gets for me.
>

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[RBW] Re: All arounder Handlebar recommendations GO!

[Rod Holland]

Just to be contrary, I'll through Noodles into the mix. I find they give me 
a very comfortable range of upright positions, as well as some very useful 
more aggressive ones.

rod

On Tuesday, October 13, 2015 at 10:45:35 PM UTC-4, drew wrote:
>
> I have a sam and a hunqapillar. sam had mustache bars, hunq had albatross. 
> Then the hunq got albastache and the sam got the old albatross bars because 
> I figured it was silly to have 2 bikes with similar bars. Long story short, 
> the albatross bars on the sam feel way too upright for my liking (and sam 
> is my "roadyish" bike). I'm aware of all the nitto/riv models, but what do 
> people like for an all around bar?
>
> Looking for a couple hand positions, not fully upright, faster feeling 
> bar, mostly road riding with a little dirt. Solo, all purpose/no purpose 
> rides. 
> I haven't ridden drops since a fixed gear bike got me into bikes (and away 
> from fixed gears). I'm not super excited about drops but am somewhat 
> curious about the low rise dirt drop style bars. What's out there that I 
> should be considering?
>

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Re: [RBW] All arounder Handlebar recommendations GO!

[Patrick Moore]

Maes Parallel. The Compass ones are the best but VO ones are half the
price. I have them on both Rivs and on the Fargo. Long reach, low rise,
excellent for firm dirt, beautiful ramps.

On Tue, Oct 13, 2015 at 8:45 PM, drew  wrote:

> I have a sam and a hunqapillar. sam had mustache bars, hunq had albatross.
> Then the hunq got albastache and the sam got the old albatross bars because
> I figured it was silly to have 2 bikes with similar bars. Long story short,
> the albatross bars on the sam feel way too upright for my liking (and sam
> is my "roadyish" bike). I'm aware of all the nitto/riv models, but what do
> people like for an all around bar?
>
> Looking for a couple hand positions, not fully upright, faster feeling
> bar, mostly road riding with a little dirt. Solo, all purpose/no purpose
> rides.
> I haven't ridden drops since a fixed gear bike got me into bikes (and away
> from fixed gears). I'm not super excited about drops but am somewhat
> curious about the low rise dirt drop style bars. What's out there that I
> should be considering?
>
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*
*The point which is the pivot of the norm is the motionless center of a
circumference on the rim of which all conditions, distinctions, and
individualities revolve. *Chuang Tzu

*Stat crux dum volvitur orbis.* Carthusian motto

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[RBW] Re: Best rear support rack for med sadlesack?

[Justin August]

Isn't there a version of that rear rack that is made for attaching to the 
fender boss under the brake bridge?

-J

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[RBW] Re: Best rear support rack for med sadlesack?

[Shoji Takahashi]

Hi Daniel,
I have the R-14 (older version with tombstone) on my AHH with a medium 
saddlesack. It fits the medium the entire length and a few inches past. It 
will fit a large saddlesack, too. 
https://www.flickr.com/photos/stakx/21478641440/in/datetaken/

It's highly adjustable-- which is good for fit, but that could mean less 
stiffness. Others have advised me not to overload the rack. If you're going 
to do so, go with a big back rack (or similar) and don't worry about it. 

Good luck!
shoji


On Tuesday, October 13, 2015 at 7:07:42 PM UTC-4, dougP wrote:
>
> See about the dimensions on that.  I adapted a small Nitto front rack to 
> the rear by making an angle piece that fastened to the stay bridge with the 
> fender hole & drilling a hole in the angle for the mounting pin.  
>
> For a couple of bucks more, Rivendell has the R-14 which is arguably one 
> of the nicer looking racks around, and has a built in tail light mounting 
> plate:
>
> http://www.rivbike.com/product-p/r14.htm
>
> Ask Riv but I think it will be big enough for at least the medium & maybe 
> even the large saddlesack.
>
> dougP
>
> On Tuesday, October 13, 2015 at 3:12:16 PM UTC-7, Daniel Jackson wrote:
>>
>> This is for use on a Hunq. 
>>
>> Was thinking about Mark's but may be too short?
>> Anybody have any experience with this rack 
>> ? Would seat stay bridge 
>> accommodate this?
>>
>> Any other recommendations?
>>
>> Thanks much,
>> D.
>>
>

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Re: [RBW] Groceries and baskets

[Mark Reimer]

And my mistake for saying a cord of wood, I had always thought a cord was a 
bundle like in the photo. I see know that I was a wee bit off!

On Tuesday, October 13, 2015 at 1:31:42 PM UTC-5, Tim Gavin wrote:
>
> My mistake, thanks for the clarification.  I glanced at it instead of 
> looking carefully.  I really like the Campee Classic (with removable 
> lowrider) front racks.
>
> On Tue, Oct 13, 2015 at 1:27 PM, Mark Reimer  > wrote:
>
>> My rack actually isn't the big rack! It's the smaller more elegant campee 
>> model
>>
>

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Re: [RBW] Darning wool socks

[Eunice Chang]

Here you go:

http://www.knitty.com/ISSUEsummer08/FEATsum08TT.html - it tells you all the
equipment you need, such as a darning egg (or mushroom) and tapestry needle.

I don't know how thick the yarn is, but you can probably use sock yarn if
you go to a yarn shop. They're wool reinforced with a bit of nylon so they
can stand up to wear and tear. You probably can weave in yarn as many times
as you want. Avoid short-lived fibers such as merino or angora or cashmere-
they'll just result in more holes.

The other option is to get thin (but flexible) felt squares and to sew it
to the heel. The felt will mold to the heel and might last longer than the
sock yarn, though it may also stretch the existing area it is connected to.

Mostly, though, I just stuff the sock with batting and knot it and give it
to my dog.

-E.

On Tue, Oct 13, 2015 at 6:47 PM, Aaron Young <1ce...@gmail.com> wrote:

> The heels of my wool socks I bought from Riv are getting pretty thin. I
> thought I would try to reinforce them by darning.  Has anyone tried that?
> Success or failure?  Which type of wool did you use?
>
> Please, help me get out of this heel hole. :)
>
> Thanks,
>
> Aaron
>
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[RBW] Re: All arounder Handlebar recommendations GO!

[Ron Mc]

the (former?) Riveldell Mark's bar,  Nitto 177,  is a shorter-reach noodle. 
 My daughter has noodles with cross brakes (interruptors) on her road bike, 
and the downward slope, opposite of a rando bar, makes for a perfect cross 
grip position.  




On Wednesday, October 14, 2015 at 8:58:30 AM UTC-5, Rod Holland wrote:
>
> Just to be contrary, I'll through Noodles into the mix. I find they give 
> me a very comfortable range of upright positions, as well as some very 
> useful more aggressive ones.
>
> rod
>
> On Tuesday, October 13, 2015 at 10:45:35 PM UTC-4, drew wrote:
>>
>> I have a sam and a hunqapillar. sam had mustache bars, hunq had 
>> albatross. Then the hunq got albastache and the sam got the old albatross 
>> bars because I figured it was silly to have 2 bikes with similar bars. Long 
>> story short, the albatross bars on the sam feel way too upright for my 
>> liking (and sam is my "roadyish" bike). I'm aware of all the nitto/riv 
>> models, but what do people like for an all around bar?
>>
>> Looking for a couple hand positions, not fully upright, faster feeling 
>> bar, mostly road riding with a little dirt. Solo, all purpose/no purpose 
>> rides. 
>> I haven't ridden drops since a fixed gear bike got me into bikes (and 
>> away from fixed gears). I'm not super excited about drops but am somewhat 
>> curious about the low rise dirt drop style bars. What's out there that I 
>> should be considering?
>>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Sources for wood fenders, particularly bamboo

[Jeff Lesperance]

... If you go to the custom flat fenders page and pick a style, you can
select width down to 1-1/2 inches with a variety of wheel sizes, including
26" - example:
http://www.woodysfenders.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info=1_id=427
- you should probably still hit Cody up for your hardware questions

On Wed, Oct 14, 2015 at 7:47 PM, Jeff Lesperance 
wrote:

> Patrick - I'd recommend that you send a question to Cody via his website (
> http://www.woodysfenders.com/store/index.php?main_page=contact_us),
> regarding your width and radius needs. I've bought 2 sets of fenders and 2
> chop chort fenders, and 3 of the 4 purchases had some customization
> involved. I bet he'd be happy to make a set of narrower 26" fenders, and
> you can ask about customizing the hardware options as well. I bought extra
> hardware from him at a reasonable price, you could likely ask to not have
> the hardware installed if you'd like to configure it yourself.
>
> Regarding finish and durability, I've probably not ridden mine long
> enough, or, they're just holding up remarkably well. Cody includes some
> notation suggesting the use of car wax a couple times a year. I've not done
> so yet, and I've been through some gnarly rain and muddy conditions to no
> noticeable ill effect. I really probably should do something before winter
> weather sets in.
>
> On Wed, Oct 14, 2015 at 7:22 PM, Patrick Moore 
> wrote:
>
>> One last question: I think of using a *single* eyelet from a Berthoud
>> fender on a flat wood fender. I know that such attachment makes metal
>> liable to crack, but is not wood tougher in this respect? I'd washer it
>> well front and back.
>>
>> Is this a good or a bad idea?
>>
>> On Wed, Oct 14, 2015 at 5:20 PM, Patrick Moore 
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Educate me on wooden fenders. I would prefer metal, but no one makes
>>> metal fenders that easily fit my particular frame, which needs ~40 mm X 559
>>> and with a shallow curve profile -- the closest available in the US and
>>> Britain, to my queries, is the Berthoud 650B X 40, but that has a too tight
>>> cross section.
>>>
>>> I know about Woody's custom fenders, and Cody is at the top of my list
>>> right now, but does anyone else make a fender, flat or shallowly-curved,
>>> that will fit into a tight space over a 26 X 33 mm tire? (There is ample
>>> space, but only for a road-width fender in the 26" size.)
>>>
>>> I know I can make a 27" X 40 mm SKS longboard work, but I'd rather have
>>> something with Berthoud-type hardware.
>>>
>>> For pricing reasons -- even my spendthrift soul balks at $200 shipped
>>> for custom curved fenders -- I think I'll choose flat fenders; customs at
>>> $135, about what a pair of Honjos cost.
>>>
>>> Are there sources for cheaper, flat wood fenders in 26" but narrower
>>> than 2+ inches? All I've seen in 26" are these wide ones.
>>>
>>> Next question: can one safely, for the long term, coax a tighter bend
>>> into a 27" flat fender? If so, I could buy a cheaper 27" X 40 mm and cut
>>> and shape to fit.
>>>
>>> 3d question: are wood fenders durable, without repeated varnishing? Here
>>> in high desert ABQ, I'd probably have to take the sun as much as water into
>>> account.
>>>
>>> Last question: is bamboo better than other woods for fenders? I have no
>>> reason to think it is, except that I've played around with bamboo -- I
>>> lived as a boy in bamboo countries, India and Kenya -- and I know it is
>>> pretty darn flexible and strong.
>>>
>>> Any other advice about wood fenders will be welcome.
>>>
>>> Note: I know that flat fenders won't give me protection as good as
>>> deeper profile fenders, but I've used flat ones enough to know that they're
>>> certainly better than nothing: when puddles are shallow, they work fine;
>>> and when they're deep, even Honjos or Berthouds don't protect you fully. A
>>> 40 mm wide flat fender will be very useful.
>>>
>>> --
>>> Resumes, LinkedIn profiles, bios, and letters that get interviews.
>>> By-the-hour resume and LinkedIn coaching.
>>> Other professional writing services.
>>> http://www.resumespecialties.com/
>>> www.linkedin.com/in/patrickmooreresumespec/
>>> Patrick Moore
>>> Alburquerque, Nouvelle Mexique,  Vereinigte Staaten
>>>
>>> *
>>> *The point which is the pivot of the norm is the motionless center of a
>>> circumference on the rim of which all conditions, distinctions, and
>>> individualities revolve. *Chuang Tzu
>>>
>>> *Stat crux dum volvitur orbis.* Carthusian motto
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>> --
>> Resumes, LinkedIn profiles, bios, and letters that get interviews.
>> By-the-hour resume and LinkedIn coaching.
>> Other professional writing services.
>> http://www.resumespecialties.com/
>> www.linkedin.com/in/patrickmooreresumespec/
>> Patrick Moore
>> Alburquerque, Nouvelle Mexique,  Vereinigte Staaten
>>
>> *
>> *The point which is the pivot of the norm 

Re: [RBW] Re: Joe Appaloosa geometry

[BenG]

I ride one of those Mystery Bike protovelos on 50mm Big Bens. Grant once wrote 
that it was especially designed for flat-landish commuting. That's my modus 
operandi, and we get along quite well. He wrote extensively in the Blug on what 
he was up to while designing his own prototype long bike, the first one. I also 
enjoy a 60cm dtt Hillborne on 38mm little Bens.  The prospect of a Hillborne on 
fatties sounds about perfect to me.

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[RBW] Re: The Tao of the Bosco Bar

[Bill Lindsay]

Here's a photo of mine.

BOSCO 

Ritchey True Grips, Vintage Suntour XC9000 brakelevers, red Newbaums, and 
pretty rare black Suntour Sprint retro-friction DT shifters mounted on 
thumbies.   The odd-ball part is I put the shifters inside the bullmoose 
triangle, in part to keep them out of the way of any of my other hand 
positions on the Boscos.  I have to reach to shift, not unlike the reach I 
have to make for DT shifters.  


On Wednesday, October 14, 2015 at 5:33:38 PM UTC-7, Daniel Jackson wrote:
>
> Tell me, friends, of all the wondrous ways there are to set up a Bosco 
> Bar. Photos of setups would be much help. 
>
> Thanks folks,
> D.
>

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