date:20200728

Great, thanks

On Tue, Jul 28, 2020 at 10:01 PM 'Eric Norris' via RBW Owners Bunch <
rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com> wrote:

>  Very thin. Benefit for me is that they stop friction between skin and
> bike shorts. Helps a lot on longer rides.
>
> –Eric N
>
>
> On Jul 28, 2020, at 6:59 PM, Joel Stern  wrote:
>
> 
> Thanks Eric.  Are they bulky?  Seems like the new thing in bike shorts is
> massive padding.
>
> I will check these out.
>
>
> On Tue, Jul 28, 2020 at 8:09 PM 'Eric Norris' via RBW Owners Bunch <
> rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com> wrote:
>
>> Joel:
>>
>> I wear I padded spandex liners with my cycling shorts. I find they help
>> cut down on chafing.
>>
>> Adidas and Under Armor both make unpadded liners.
>>
>> 
>>
>>
>> 
>>
>>
>> 
>>
>>
>> –Eric N
>>
>>
>> On Jul 28, 2020, at 4:50 PM, Joel Stern  wrote:
>>
>> 
>> I have been on the hunt for bike shorts or liners that had just that
>> small  chamois like they had about 12 years ago. The only things I can find
>> now have a huge bad in the bottom that make it a very uncomfortable
>> experience to ride in. I would rather just ride in shorts and underwear
>> than those bulky things. I would consider spandex to put under shorts if I
>> could find some with a small chamois but they all see huge.
>>
>> Any suggestions?
>>
>> thanks in advance
>>
>> Joel
>>
>> --
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>> 
>> .
>>
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>> 
>> .
>>
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Re: [RBW] Bike shorts/ Liners

Patrick, I’m kicking myself, I had 2 pair of Kuchariks and purged all of my
shorts when I thought my riding days were over.  I may have even sold them
on the forum I just don’t remember.



On Tue, Jul 28, 2020 at 8:15 PM Patrick Moore  wrote:

> Does anyone still make wool shorts with chamois liners? I also hate the
> huge thick pads in many lycra shorts, but I've worn old Kuchariks under
> Rapha touring shorts and found them very comfortable. But my wool/chamois
> shorts are quite old.
>
>
>
> On Tue, Jul 28, 2020 at 5:50 PM Joel Stern  wrote:
>
>> I have been on the hunt for bike shorts or liners that had just that
>> small  chamois like they had about 12 years ago. The only things I can find
>> now have a huge bad in the bottom that make it a very uncomfortable
>> experience to ride in. I would rather just ride in shorts and underwear
>> than those bulky things. I would consider spandex to put under shorts if I
>> could find some with a small chamois but they all see huge.
>>
>> Any suggestions?
>>
>> thanks in advance
>>
>> Joel
>>
>> --
>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
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>> 
>> .
>>
>
>
> --
>
> ---
> Patrick Moore
> Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum
>
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> .
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Re: [RBW] Bike shorts/ Liners

2020-07-28 Thread 'Eric Norris' via RBW Owners Bunch

 Very thin. Benefit for me is that they stop friction between skin and bike 
shorts. Helps a lot on longer rides. 

–Eric N


> On Jul 28, 2020, at 6:59 PM, Joel Stern  wrote:
> 
> 
> Thanks Eric.  Are they bulky?  Seems like the new thing in bike shorts is 
> massive padding.  
> 
> I will check these out. 
> 
> 
>> On Tue, Jul 28, 2020 at 8:09 PM 'Eric Norris' via RBW Owners Bunch 
>>  wrote:
>> Joel:
>> 
>> I wear I padded spandex liners with my cycling shorts. I find they help cut 
>> down on chafing. 
>> 
>> Adidas and Under Armor both make unpadded liners. 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> –Eric N
>> 
>> 
 On Jul 28, 2020, at 4:50 PM, Joel Stern  wrote:
 
>>> 
>>> I have been on the hunt for bike shorts or liners that had just that small  
>>> chamois like they had about 12 years ago. The only things I can find now 
>>> have a huge bad in the bottom that make it a very uncomfortable experience 
>>> to ride in. I would rather just ride in shorts and underwear than those 
>>> bulky things. I would consider spandex to put under shorts if I could find 
>>> some with a small chamois but they all see huge. 
>>> 
>>> Any suggestions?
>>> 
>>> thanks in advance
>>> 
>>> Joel
>>> -- 
>>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
>>> "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
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>>> email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
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>> 
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Re: [RBW] Bike shorts/ Liners

Steve, I just got a pair of those and like them. A tad mor pad would be ok
but they are nice shorts.  There was a thread on shorts, these were
recommended.  Thanks.

On Tue, Jul 28, 2020 at 8:11 PM Steven Sweedler  wrote:

> Joel, for the most minimal loose shorts take a look at J&G Touring shorts.
> http://www.bicycleclothing.com/Mens-Touring-Shorts.html
> Its all I wear in warmer weather. Steve
>
>
> On Tue, Jul 28, 2020 at 7:50 PM Joel Stern  wrote:
>
>> I have been on the hunt for bike shorts or liners that had just that
>> small  chamois like they had about 12 years ago. The only things I can find
>> now have a huge bad in the bottom that make it a very uncomfortable
>> experience to ride in. I would rather just ride in shorts and underwear
>> than those bulky things. I would consider spandex to put under shorts if I
>> could find some with a small chamois but they all see huge.
>>
>> Any suggestions?
>>
>> thanks in advance
>>
>> Joel
>>
>> --
>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
>> "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
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>> email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
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>> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/4f448329-3ebd-4b77-a84f-8e9b7a9f711fo%40googlegroups.com
>> 
>> .
>>
> --
> Steven Sweedler
> Plymouth, New Hampshire
>
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> 
> .
>
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Re: [RBW] Bike shorts/ Liners

2020-07-28 Thread Fullylugged

Patrick:

 Kucharik still offers genuine leather chamois as a $26.50 upcharge in their 
shorts. Chheck out their wool and Helenca shorts.

To the OP:   Zoic sells a variety of shorts liners with various pad thickness.  
I usually wear an unpadded under layer of lycra with silver ions under an 
unpadded wool short, but sometime on long rides I want a little padding. Then  
use a Zoic liner under my shorts.

Bruce

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[RBW] Re: Suggestions for powerful, silver, light, 57 mm-reach front caliper brake for fixed gear

Sorry, Mitch, the toe strap is too minimalist and idiosyncratic even for
me.

As an aside, I could flip myself over the bar with the (properly set up)
RGCs with salmons, and I very much like the way they feel, so I suppose
they are all I really want.


On Tue, Jul 28, 2020 at 6:37 PM Patrick Moore  wrote:

> Thanks, all. I'm surprised that the response to the Grand Cru sidepulls
> has been so tepid, as they got rave reviews in BQ and by someone on this
> list -- Mark Chandler? -- on his gravel blog. But good warning about the
> aluminum torx nut.
>
> Before I remove these from the top of my list, does anyone else want to
> pipe up in their favor?
>
> I used Tektro 539s on the 2003 Riv, for a while, and was very
> underwhelmed. And I don't care for the extra hardware required for
> centerpulls, at least on this most spare of builds.
>
> Now that I corrected the silly problem that in turn allowed me to adjust
> the brake arm play and lock it in properly, I'm much more inclined just to
> stick with the RGCs, which are suprisingly powerful, modulate very well,
> look very nice and, more, fit the bike's aesthetic, and, well, don't
> require more $ or work. Yes, salmons.
>
> Again, thanks, all.
>
> On Tue, Jul 28, 2020 at 10:56 AM Patrick Moore 
> wrote:
>
>> I'm curious about alternatives to the RG Comp single pivot for the
>> (single, front) brake for my 1999 Riv fixed gear. The RGC stops well and
>> modulates well but has a habit of loosening, and the allen-head locknut is,
>> as I discovered again yesterday, very finicky to tighten correctly -- I
>> don't seem to be able to tighten firmly it against the pivot nut without
>> binding the arms; IOW, I have to leave the allen locknut loose (applied
>> blue Loctite, though).
>>
>> Therefore the question: If you were relying on a single front caliper,
>> and you like old fashioned and silver, what would you install?
>>
>> In particular, the VO G Cru long-reaches:
>> (
>> https://velo-orange.com/collections/brakes/products/grand-cru-long-reach-brakes
>> )
>>
>> Note: Prefer allen head, but nutted will be considered.
>>
>> I do like dual pivots overall for their power and ease of setup, but too
>> many look klunky and bulky. The VOs aren't bad; what do you-plural think of
>> them?
>>
>> And: If you each individually should have a nice such brake to sell,
>> please do tell me. In particular, if you have a front VO G Cru in silver to
>> sell, I'm interested; I don't want to buy a $170 pair if I don't have to.
>>
>> (And: Refresh my memory: Can I use a nutted rear in front with a longish
>> allen nut? I think I can, but please confirm.)
>>
>> Thanks.
>>
>> --
>>
>> ---
>> Patrick Moore
>> Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum
>>
>>
>
> --
>
> ---
> Patrick Moore
> Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum
>
>

-- 

---
Patrick Moore
Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum

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[RBW] Re: Suggestions for powerful, silver, light, 57 mm-reach front caliper brake for fixed gear

Thanks, all. I'm surprised that the response to the Grand Cru sidepulls has
been so tepid, as they got rave reviews in BQ and by someone on this list
-- Mark Chandler? -- on his gravel blog. But good warning about the
aluminum torx nut.

Before I remove these from the top of my list, does anyone else want to
pipe up in their favor?

I used Tektro 539s on the 2003 Riv, for a while, and was very underwhelmed.
And I don't care for the extra hardware required for centerpulls, at least
on this most spare of builds.

Now that I corrected the silly problem that in turn allowed me to adjust
the brake arm play and lock it in properly, I'm much more inclined just to
stick with the RGCs, which are suprisingly powerful, modulate very well,
look very nice and, more, fit the bike's aesthetic, and, well, don't
require more $ or work. Yes, salmons.

Again, thanks, all.

On Tue, Jul 28, 2020 at 10:56 AM Patrick Moore  wrote:

> I'm curious about alternatives to the RG Comp single pivot for the
> (single, front) brake for my 1999 Riv fixed gear. The RGC stops well and
> modulates well but has a habit of loosening, and the allen-head locknut is,
> as I discovered again yesterday, very finicky to tighten correctly -- I
> don't seem to be able to tighten firmly it against the pivot nut without
> binding the arms; IOW, I have to leave the allen locknut loose (applied
> blue Loctite, though).
>
> Therefore the question: If you were relying on a single front caliper, and
> you like old fashioned and silver, what would you install?
>
> In particular, the VO G Cru long-reaches:
> (
> https://velo-orange.com/collections/brakes/products/grand-cru-long-reach-brakes
> )
>
> Note: Prefer allen head, but nutted will be considered.
>
> I do like dual pivots overall for their power and ease of setup, but too
> many look klunky and bulky. The VOs aren't bad; what do you-plural think of
> them?
>
> And: If you each individually should have a nice such brake to sell,
> please do tell me. In particular, if you have a front VO G Cru in silver to
> sell, I'm interested; I don't want to buy a $170 pair if I don't have to.
>
> (And: Refresh my memory: Can I use a nutted rear in front with a longish
> allen nut? I think I can, but please confirm.)
>
> Thanks.
>
> --
>
> ---
> Patrick Moore
> Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum
>
>

-- 

---
Patrick Moore
Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum

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[RBW] Re: Appaloosa & Atlantis Toe Overlap

2020-07-28 Thread Ryan M.

I ride a 51cm Appaloosa and am 5'7" tall on the best of days and have a 
size 9 shoe and ride with platform pedals pretty much ball of the foot. 
I've never experienced toe overlap on that bike. I did experience it on my 
Sam Hillborne, but not the Roadeo I had.

On Tuesday, July 28, 2020 at 7:01:37 AM UTC-5 ☆ Paul ☆ wrote:

> Hello All. 
>
> Does anyone have toe overlap issues on a Joe Appaloosa with fat 50-ish 
> tires and fenders?
> How about the first run MIT 650B Atlantis?
>
> I have big Sneakers (13) but am not terribly tall (5’11) and find overlap 
> to be an issue on my 700c Homer with 40c tires and fenders. The tips of all 
> my sneakers have run marks and I find myself hitting the fenders now 
> frequently. So am thinking about switching things around and trying to hunt 
> up a different model frame to use as a fast townie. 
>
> I do ride on the balls of my feet, not my heels. 🙂 
>
> Thank you!
>
>
>
>
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Bike shorts/ Liners

Does anyone still make wool shorts with chamois liners? I also hate the
huge thick pads in many lycra shorts, but I've worn old Kuchariks under
Rapha touring shorts and found them very comfortable. But my wool/chamois
shorts are quite old.



On Tue, Jul 28, 2020 at 5:50 PM Joel Stern  wrote:

> I have been on the hunt for bike shorts or liners that had just that small
>  chamois like they had about 12 years ago. The only things I can find now
> have a huge bad in the bottom that make it a very uncomfortable experience
> to ride in. I would rather just ride in shorts and underwear than those
> bulky things. I would consider spandex to put under shorts if I could find
> some with a small chamois but they all see huge.
>
> Any suggestions?
>
> thanks in advance
>
> Joel
>
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> 
> .
>


-- 

---
Patrick Moore
Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum

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Re: [RBW] Bike shorts/ Liners

2020-07-28 Thread Steven Sweedler

Joel, for the most minimal loose shorts take a look at J&G Touring shorts.
http://www.bicycleclothing.com/Mens-Touring-Shorts.html
Its all I wear in warmer weather. Steve


On Tue, Jul 28, 2020 at 7:50 PM Joel Stern  wrote:

> I have been on the hunt for bike shorts or liners that had just that small
>  chamois like they had about 12 years ago. The only things I can find now
> have a huge bad in the bottom that make it a very uncomfortable experience
> to ride in. I would rather just ride in shorts and underwear than those
> bulky things. I would consider spandex to put under shorts if I could find
> some with a small chamois but they all see huge.
>
> Any suggestions?
>
> thanks in advance
>
> Joel
>
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> .
>
-- 
Steven Sweedler
Plymouth, New Hampshire

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[RBW] Re: Anybody regret their Cheviot sweater?

2020-07-28 Thread Ryan M.

Yeah, these things sell out quicker than Ticketmaster tickets. 



On Tuesday, July 28, 2020 at 4:37:35 PM UTC-5 Matt Beecher wrote:

> I think that vest was sold out before I posted. 

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Re: [RBW] Bike shorts/ Liners

Thanks Jay, I have some very old ones but have found new ones at any of the
places I have looked. I will check it out...

On Tue, Jul 28, 2020 at 8:07 PM Jay Lonner  wrote:

> Have you looked at Andiamos? Riv used to sell them in that approximate
> time frame. I just checked their website and they still appear to be in
> business.
>
> Jay Lonner
> Bellingham, WA
>
> Sent from my Atari 400
>
> On Jul 28, 2020, at 4:50 PM, Joel Stern  wrote:
>
> 
> I have been on the hunt for bike shorts or liners that had just that small
>  chamois like they had about 12 years ago. The only things I can find now
> have a huge bad in the bottom that make it a very uncomfortable experience
> to ride in. I would rather just ride in shorts and underwear than those
> bulky things. I would consider spandex to put under shorts if I could find
> some with a small chamois but they all see huge.
>
> Any suggestions?
>
> thanks in advance
>
> Joel
>
> --
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> 
> .
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Re: [RBW] Bike shorts/ Liners

2020-07-28 Thread Jay Lonner

Have you looked at Andiamos? Riv used to sell them in that approximate time 
frame. I just checked their website and they still appear to be in business.

Jay Lonner
Bellingham, WA

Sent from my Atari 400

> On Jul 28, 2020, at 4:50 PM, Joel Stern  wrote:
> 
> 
> I have been on the hunt for bike shorts or liners that had just that small  
> chamois like they had about 12 years ago. The only things I can find now have 
> a huge bad in the bottom that make it a very uncomfortable experience to ride 
> in. I would rather just ride in shorts and underwear than those bulky things. 
> I would consider spandex to put under shorts if I could find some with a 
> small chamois but they all see huge. 
> 
> Any suggestions?
> 
> thanks in advance
> 
> Joel
> -- 
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[RBW] Bike shorts/ Liners

I have been on the hunt for bike shorts or liners that had just that small 
 chamois like they had about 12 years ago. The only things I can find now 
have a huge bad in the bottom that make it a very uncomfortable experience 
to ride in. I would rather just ride in shorts and underwear than those 
bulky things. I would consider spandex to put under shorts if I could find 
some with a small chamois but they all see huge. 

Any suggestions?

thanks in advance

Joel

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[RBW] Re: Recommendations/WTB: smallish saddlebag

2020-07-28 Thread Kurt Manley

I have a medium Acorn saddlebag in olive that I'd sell for $50 plus actual 
shipping. 

On Thursday, July 23, 2020 at 7:23:17 PM UTC-7, Drw wrote:
>
> I suppose i would've bought a bananasax by now, but they are all sold out. 
> So now im considering other things. I mostly need it to hold a normal sized 
> u-lock, multi-tool and tire levers and an extra tube, but i'd appreciate 
> something with capacity for a jacket or sandwich also. Bonus points if it 
> works on the handlebars as well as the saddle. Top of the list right now is 
> the small ultraromance hip/handlebar pack (which ive already owned and 
> sold), or the VO/roadrunner bananasax-like saddlebag. 
>
> recommendations are great, and if you have something to sell, even better.
>
> thanks
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Ride Photos: We Saw the Comet!

2020-07-28 Thread 'Eric Norris' via RBW Owners Bunch

You can always tell a randonneur by the acres of reflective materials! 

--Eric Norris
campyonly...@me.com
Insta: @CampyOnlyGuy
YouTube: YouTube.com/CampyOnlyGuy 

> On Jul 28, 2020, at 4:27 PM, RichS  wrote:
> 
> Eric,
> 
> That looked like a fun evening. Impressive reflectivity. Your group was a 
> comet on earth:-)
> 
> Best,
> Rich in ATL
> 
> On Monday, July 27, 2020 at 8:15:23 PM UTC-4, Eric Norris wrote:
> Saturday night a small coterie of cyclists set out to get as far away from 
> the city lights of Sacramento as we could in order to get a better view of 
> the comet. We rode to Clarksburg, a small town on the Sacramento River, where 
> a local restaurant/taproom stayed open long enough to give us some leftover 
> food and pour a few beers. 
> 
> We did see the comet (barely), but the best part of the evening was the quiet 
> and scenic road through the delta to Clarksburg and back. We stopped on the 
> way back for the obligatory Tower Bridge photo, which also highlights the 
> vast amount of reflective gear on us and our bikes! The first black-and-white 
> photo shows Tara Flanagan, an Alameda-based randonneuse, and her little dog, 
> Finn, who accompanies her on many of these rides.
> 
> I pulled into home at 1 am after a very nice night out.
> 
> Riv content: I was riding a very Riv-ish Soma (upright bars, twine-wrapped 
> and cork-gripped bars, etc.). 
> 
> The comet returns in 6,800 years. 
> 
> 
> 
> --Eric Norris
> campyo...@me.com <>
> Insta: @CampyOnlyGuy
> YouTube: YouTube.com/CampyOnlyGuy  
> 
> 
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[RBW] Re: Ride Photos: We Saw the Comet!

2020-07-28 Thread RichS

Eric,

That looked like a fun evening. Impressive reflectivity. Your group was a 
comet on earth:-)

Best,
Rich in ATL

On Monday, July 27, 2020 at 8:15:23 PM UTC-4, Eric Norris wrote:
>
> Saturday night a small coterie of cyclists set out to get as far away from 
> the city lights of Sacramento as we could in order to get a better view of 
> the comet. We rode to Clarksburg, a small town on the Sacramento River, 
> where a local restaurant/taproom stayed open long enough to give us some 
> leftover food and pour a few beers. 
>
> We did see the comet (barely), but the best part of the evening was the 
> quiet and scenic road through the delta to Clarksburg and back. We stopped 
> on the way back for the obligatory Tower Bridge photo, which also 
> highlights the vast amount of reflective gear on us and our bikes! The 
> first black-and-white photo shows Tara Flanagan, an Alameda-based 
> randonneuse, and her little dog, Finn, who accompanies her on many of these 
> rides.
>
> I pulled into home at 1 am after a very nice night out.
>
> Riv content: I was riding a very Riv-ish Soma (upright bars, twine-wrapped 
> and cork-gripped bars, etc.). 
>
> The comet returns in 6,800 years. 
>
>
>
> --Eric Norris
> campyo...@me.com 
> Insta: @CampyOnlyGuy
> YouTube: YouTube.com/CampyOnlyGuy  
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Suggestions for powerful, silver, light, 57 mm-reach front caliper brake for fixed gear

2020-07-28 Thread Drw

First time using the new interface. apologies if it's weird. 

Ill concur that the paul racer's are definitely a step above. ive had a 
number of sidepulls, and they were all decent, but the pauls feel much 
grabbier (a good thing for center/sidepulls in my mind) and better at the 
lever. 

I like paul stuff, but try to be realistic about actual performance 
benefits. ex. ive had motolites and deore level shimano v brakes on a 
couple bikes and the differences are minor, for me. The racer centerpull 
definitely felt like a worthy upgrade from tektro sidepulls when i did it.

anecdotally, because the situation wasnt normal braking, the one time i 
almost launched myself over the bars was on a bike with Paul Racers. and i 
have bikes with v brakes and discs. 

On Tuesday, July 28, 2020 at 1:49:59 PM UTC-7 Paul Brodek wrote:

> Reposting from ibob
>
> If you can deal with centerpull, Paul Racer Medium for the win. The 
> caliper itself is as light, or a tad lighter, than some of the dual-pivots, 
> though the extra cabling/stops likely makes it heavier overall. Still, no 
> beating that stopping.
>
> It has been a very long time since I rode with vintage centerpulls, so I 
> can't delve into that species.
>
> After centerpull, comes dual-pivot. My heirarchy for 49-59mm dual-pivot 
> calipers, in order of niceness/performance, is:
>
> 1. VO Grand Cru
> 2. TRP RG957
> 3. Shimano R650
> 4. Shimano R600
> 5. Tektro R539
>
> All of these, with equivalently good brake shoes, will stop better for me 
> than an equivalent single-pivot caliper.
>
> The two Shimano calipers are pretty much identical, the earlier R600 
> doesn't have brake shoe toe-in washers stock. I think maybe the qr mech is 
> a little different? 
>
> VO has the stiffest arms, TRP is close. Shimano not too far behind. Tektro 
> always seem kinda flexy and squishy to me, comparatively. And though the 
> Tektros definitely stop fine, they also feel cheaper overall, have a 
> clunkier/wonkier qr mech as well.
>
> To those who are sensitive to cable pull issues, you may want to explore 
> further which calipers work better with which levers. 
>
> Miche also made, or maybe still makes, a longer-reach dual-pivot caliper. 
> I remember thinking about snagging a set some years back, just to check 'em 
> out, but never did.
>
> Paul Brodek
> Hillsdale, NJ USA
>
> On Tuesday, July 28, 2020 at 12:57:10 PM UTC-4, Patrick Moore wrote:
>
>> I'm curious about alternatives to the RG Comp single pivot for the 
>> (single, front) brake for my 1999 Riv fixed gear. The RGC stops well and 
>> modulates well but has a habit of loosening, and the allen-head locknut is, 
>> as I discovered again yesterday, very finicky to tighten correctly -- I 
>> don't seem to be able to tighten firmly it against the pivot nut without 
>> binding the arms; IOW, I have to leave the allen locknut loose (applied 
>> blue Loctite, though). 
>>
>> Therefore the question: If you were relying on a single front caliper, 
>> and you like old fashioned and silver, what would you install?
>>
>> In particular, the VO G Cru long-reaches:
>> (
>> https://velo-orange.com/collections/brakes/products/grand-cru-long-reach-brakes
>> )
>>
>> Note: Prefer allen head, but nutted will be considered.
>>
>> I do like dual pivots overall for their power and ease of setup, but too 
>> many look klunky and bulky. The VOs aren't bad; what do you-plural think of 
>> them?
>>
>> And: If you each individually should have a nice such brake to sell, 
>> please do tell me. In particular, if you have a front VO G Cru in silver to 
>> sell, I'm interested; I don't want to buy a $170 pair if I don't have to.
>>
>> (And: Refresh my memory: Can I use a nutted rear in front with a longish 
>> allen nut? I think I can, but please confirm.)
>>
>> Thanks.
>>
>> -- 
>>
>> ---
>> Patrick Moore
>> Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum
>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: Website is live featuring beautiful bikes & surroundings

2020-07-28 Thread Andrew Turner

I got that one for a song on eBay. As pictured, that was one of the nicest 
riding bikes I owned and I have a little regret letting it go but it 
definitely had it's drawbacks. Clearances were tight going to 650b. 38mm 
tires were the absolute max and you could forget about fenders. There were 
also no drain holes to be found which made me even more fearful of water 
somehow making its way into the frame with no way back out. 

Your name sounds familiar, if you're a member of the BCC Slack, you might 
be remembering it from there. I left a while ago because I have 0 self 
control when it comes to social media...hints my private little island of a 
website. haha.

On Tuesday, July 28, 2020 at 3:54:39 PM UTC-5, Paul Brodek wrote:
>
> Very nicely done, lovely pix and bikes!
>
> Aside from the Rivs, where did you get that awesome Stowe frameset? Looks 
> vaguely familiar
>
> And how does she go with 650b?
>
> Paul Brodek
> Hillsdale, NJ USA
>
> On Saturday, July 25, 2020 at 9:05:09 PM UTC-4, Andrew Turner wrote:
>>
>> COVID gave me time to spruce up my website  
>> and it's at a point where I'm comfortable making it public. The majority of 
>> it is dedicated to riding and the surroundings I'm lucky enough to see and 
>> document, so I figured I'd share it here. 
>>
>> Enjoy! 
>> - Andrew
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: Blog post about my Blériot

2020-07-28 Thread Dave Johnston

I love Le Belriot! In lots of ways its my favorite bike. At the very least 
its the baseline bike I compare all others too.

-Dave J

On Tuesday, July 28, 2020 at 11:48:51 AM UTC-4, aaron.e.russell wrote:
>
> Hey there, long-time lurker here. I started a blog about my randonneuring 
> activity late last year, and decided to write a post centered on the 
> Rivendell Blériot that I bought on eBay from a seller in Arizona back in 
> 2009 and have been riding ever since. Thought I'd share it with this list 
> in case anyone wants to check it out. Also if anyone on here happens to 
> have been the original seller, the bike sure worked out great! (The post 
> includes the text of the original listing.)
>
> https://rando12051.com/bleriot/
>
> Cheers, Aaron
>

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[RBW] Re: Appaloosa & Atlantis Toe Overlap

This is super helpful. Explains some of my TO issues!

On Tuesday, July 28, 2020 at 5:32:57 PM UTC-4, Dave Johnston wrote:
>
> Bike Insights will help you visualize and it calculates the distance from 
> the pedal spindle to the tire. You can change tire size with the little 
> wrench tool. Note: I have found mistakes in the Rivendell data for stack, 
> reach and standover, so be wary.
>
> This link should be a 55cm Hilsen vs a 54cm Appaloosa, but play with the 
> search for different sizes and model years.
>
> https://bikeinsights.com/compare?geometries=5a1e69902a0c030014708cac,5e308654dcfe4e001737cc7c
>
> -Dave
>
> On Tuesday, July 28, 2020 at 8:01:37 AM UTC-4, ☆ Paul ☆ wrote:
>>
>> Hello All. 
>>
>> Does anyone have toe overlap issues on a Joe Appaloosa with fat 50-ish 
>> tires and fenders?
>> How about the first run MIT 650B Atlantis?
>>
>> I have big Sneakers (13) but am not terribly tall (5’11) and find overlap 
>> to be an issue on my 700c Homer with 40c tires and fenders. The tips of all 
>> my sneakers have run marks and I find myself hitting the fenders now 
>> frequently. So am thinking about switching things around and trying to hunt 
>> up a different model frame to use as a fast townie. 
>>
>> I do ride on the balls of my feet, not my heels. 🙂 
>>
>> Thank you!
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Anybody regret their Cheviot sweater?

2020-07-28 Thread 'Hetchins52' via RBW Owners Bunch

Hi Lyman,
I have a Medium that I have not worn other than to try it on. 
I'd really need a Small (5'8" and <125 #)
I'll send an email,
David Lipsky

On Tuesday, July 28, 2020 at 9:19:10 AM UTC-7, Tirebiter ATX wrote:
>
> Hi all, if there’s a Medium Size cheviot sweater In good condition 
> available out there, I’d be interested.  Thanks,
> Lyman
>

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[RBW] Re: Anybody regret their Cheviot sweater?

2020-07-28 Thread Matt Beecher

I think that vest was sold out before I posted. 

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Re: [RBW] Re: Paul Netro-Retro Cantilevers & Straddle Cable Height: where is your happy place?

2020-07-28 Thread Jay Lonner

On my Hunq I went from Neo-Retros to Touring to Motolites. Could never get the 
cantis dialed in and I’m much happier with the linear pull brakes. If you’re 
buying new brakes anyway it’s worth thinking about. (Of course you’d have to 
buy a new lever as well.)

Jay Lonner
Bellingham, WA

Sent from my Atari 400

> On Jul 28, 2020, at 2:20 PM, 'John Phillips' via RBW Owners Bunch 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> Thanks Bill, you made me feel a little better in that at least I was 
> understanding the math! 
> 
> Looks like I'm going to have to buy the Touring Canti's and try out some 
> black Kool-Stops.
> 
> Thanks,
> John
> 
> 
> 
>> On Tuesday, July 28, 2020 at 1:54:26 PM UTC-7 Bill Lindsay wrote:
>> The black Shimano slide in inserts that improved the braking on my black 
>> Cliffhangers were that standard Shimano compound.  The compound  almost 
>> looks very dark brown.
>> 
>> You understand the MA math correctly.  there's a steep part of the curve for 
>> wide cantilevers, but it exists inside the volume of the tire, and you can't 
>> get there.   :(
>> 
>> Bill Lindsay
>> El Cerrito, CA
>> 
>>> On Tuesday, July 28, 2020 at 1:35:10 PM UTC-7 John Phillips wrote:
>>> So maybe the question I should be asking is, if you're happy with your Paul 
>>> Neo-Retro's, what rims and brake pads are you using???
>>> 
>>>I could be completely confused by the math, but it looks to me as though 
>>> there is a curve to the response of wider profile canti's to straddle 
>>> height, but that curve in the response is so low, I would have to put the 
>>> straddle cable though the middle of my tire, at least if I'm trying to 
>>> match the braking of my Touring Cant's in the rear. And I don't believe 
>>> this solution would work out for me in my situation. 
>>> 
>>>Thanks Bill, I'm guessing the stock Shimano pads were black compound 
>>> pads? I'm also using Cliffhanger rims, mine are the plain silver ones, but 
>>> I was also thinking about trying out either the black or the dual 
>>> black/salmon Kool-Stops to see if they exorcised the shrieking banshees in 
>>> my bike.
>>>  
>>> John
> 
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[RBW] Re: Appaloosa & Atlantis Toe Overlap

2020-07-28 Thread Dave Johnston

Bike Insights will help you visualize and it calculates the distance from 
the pedal spindle to the tire. You can change tire size with the little 
wrench tool. Note: I have found mistakes in the Rivendell data for stack, 
reach and standover, so be wary.

This link should be a 55cm Hilsen vs a 54cm Appaloosa, but play with the 
search for different sizes and model years.
https://bikeinsights.com/compare?geometries=5a1e69902a0c030014708cac,5e308654dcfe4e001737cc7c

-Dave

On Tuesday, July 28, 2020 at 8:01:37 AM UTC-4, ☆ Paul ☆ wrote:
>
> Hello All. 
>
> Does anyone have toe overlap issues on a Joe Appaloosa with fat 50-ish 
> tires and fenders?
> How about the first run MIT 650B Atlantis?
>
> I have big Sneakers (13) but am not terribly tall (5’11) and find overlap 
> to be an issue on my 700c Homer with 40c tires and fenders. The tips of all 
> my sneakers have run marks and I find myself hitting the fenders now 
> frequently. So am thinking about switching things around and trying to hunt 
> up a different model frame to use as a fast townie. 
>
> I do ride on the balls of my feet, not my heels. 🙂 
>
> Thank you!
>
>
>
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Paul Netro-Retro Cantilevers & Straddle Cable Height: where is your happy place?

2020-07-28 Thread 'John Phillips' via RBW Owners Bunch

Thanks Bill, you made me feel a little better in that at least I was 
understanding the math! 

Looks like I'm going to have to buy the Touring Canti's and try out some 
black Kool-Stops.

Thanks,
John



On Tuesday, July 28, 2020 at 1:54:26 PM UTC-7 Bill Lindsay wrote:

> The black Shimano slide in inserts that improved the braking on my black 
> Cliffhangers were that standard Shimano compound.  The compound  almost 
> looks very dark brown.
>
> You understand the MA math correctly.  there's a steep part of the curve 
> for wide cantilevers, but it exists inside the volume of the tire, and you 
> can't get there.   :(
>
> Bill Lindsay
> El Cerrito, CA
>
> On Tuesday, July 28, 2020 at 1:35:10 PM UTC-7 John Phillips wrote:
>
>> So maybe the question I should be asking is, if you're happy with your 
>> Paul Neo-Retro's, what rims and brake pads are you using???
>>
>>I could be completely confused by the math, but it looks to me as 
>> though there is a curve to the response of wider profile canti's to 
>> straddle height, but that curve in the response is so low, I would have to 
>> put the straddle cable though the middle of my tire, at least if I'm trying 
>> to match the braking of my Touring Cant's in the rear. And I don't believe 
>> this solution would work out for me in my situation. 
>>
>>Thanks Bill, I'm guessing the stock Shimano pads were black compound 
>> pads? I'm also using Cliffhanger rims, mine are the plain silver ones, but 
>> I was also thinking about trying out either the black or the dual 
>> black/salmon Kool-Stops to see if they exorcised the shrieking banshees in 
>> my bike.
>>  
>> John
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: Paul Netro-Retro Cantilevers & Straddle Cable Height: where is your happy place?

2020-07-28 Thread 'John Phillips' via RBW Owners Bunch

Thanks Laing,  I will check out changing the spacers & washers up like you 
suggest. I don't know if I have much more range to move the pads higher to 
make this work. The Touring Canti's on my back wheel look like they may 
have a bit more range for that kind of tweaking, but definitely worth a try.

What everyone's said so far is confirming my nagging suspicion that I need 
to fork out for a set of Touring Cant's for the front wheel. 

It's not a great habit to have, but I've braked mostly with the back wheel 
since I was a kid. Where I grew up, our roads were mostly bad asphalt or 
decomposed granite, and covered in pine needles & oak leaves in winter with 
fog or rain all year. If you locked up your front wheel on leaves or gravel 
or wet asphalt, you might hit some dry asphalt and fly over your bars. I've 
tried to break the habit for years, but haven't gotten there yet.
Thanks,
John

On Tuesday, July 28, 2020 at 1:24:59 PM UTC-7 lconley wrote:

> My understanding of the math is that the shorter and straighter the 
> transverse cable, the more mechanical advantage for both wide angle 
> (Neo-Retro) and medium angle (Touring) cantilevers, just more so for the 
> medium angle, but it still helps the wide angle. If you have both, put the 
> Touring cantilevers on the front where most of the braking is done and 
> the Neo-Retros on the rear.
>
> The distance between the arm and the pad is also important, make sure that 
> the narrow spacers are on the inside between the pad and arm and the wide 
> spacers are on the outside of the arm, I believe that this is more 
> important on the Neo-Retro wide angle models. This rotates the wide angle 
> arm up so that its geometry is ever so slightly closer to the medium angle 
> arm geometry.
>
> Laing
> Delray Beach FL
>
>
>>>

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[RBW] Re: Paul Netro-Retro Cantilevers & Straddle Cable Height: where is your happy place?

The black Shimano slide in inserts that improved the braking on my black 
Cliffhangers were that standard Shimano compound.  The compound  almost 
looks very dark brown.

You understand the MA math correctly.  there's a steep part of the curve 
for wide cantilevers, but it exists inside the volume of the tire, and you 
can't get there.   :(

Bill Lindsay
El Cerrito, CA

On Tuesday, July 28, 2020 at 1:35:10 PM UTC-7 John Phillips wrote:

> So maybe the question I should be asking is, if you're happy with your 
> Paul Neo-Retro's, what rims and brake pads are you using???
>
>I could be completely confused by the math, but it looks to me as 
> though there is a curve to the response of wider profile canti's to 
> straddle height, but that curve in the response is so low, I would have to 
> put the straddle cable though the middle of my tire, at least if I'm trying 
> to match the braking of my Touring Cant's in the rear. And I don't believe 
> this solution would work out for me in my situation. 
>
>Thanks Bill, I'm guessing the stock Shimano pads were black compound 
> pads? I'm also using Cliffhanger rims, mine are the plain silver ones, but 
> I was also thinking about trying out either the black or the dual 
> black/salmon Kool-Stops to see if they exorcised the shrieking banshees in 
> my bike.
>  
> John
>

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[RBW] Re: Website is live featuring beautiful bikes & surroundings

2020-07-28 Thread Paul Brodek

Very nicely done, lovely pix and bikes!

Aside from the Rivs, where did you get that awesome Stowe frameset? Looks 
vaguely familiar

And how does she go with 650b?

Paul Brodek
Hillsdale, NJ USA

On Saturday, July 25, 2020 at 9:05:09 PM UTC-4, Andrew Turner wrote:
>
> COVID gave me time to spruce up my website  and 
> it's at a point where I'm comfortable making it public. The majority of it 
> is dedicated to riding and the surroundings I'm lucky enough to see and 
> document, so I figured I'd share it here. 
>
> Enjoy! 
> - Andrew
>

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[RBW] Re: Suggestions for powerful, silver, light, 57 mm-reach front caliper brake for fixed gear

2020-07-28 Thread Paul Brodek

Reposting from ibob

If you can deal with centerpull, Paul Racer Medium for the win. The caliper 
itself is as light, or a tad lighter, than some of the dual-pivots, though 
the extra cabling/stops likely makes it heavier overall. Still, no beating 
that stopping.

It has been a very long time since I rode with vintage centerpulls, so I 
can't delve into that species.

After centerpull, comes dual-pivot. My heirarchy for 49-59mm dual-pivot 
calipers, in order of niceness/performance, is:

1. VO Grand Cru
2. TRP RG957
3. Shimano R650
4. Shimano R600
5. Tektro R539

All of these, with equivalently good brake shoes, will stop better for me 
than an equivalent single-pivot caliper.

The two Shimano calipers are pretty much identical, the earlier R600 
doesn't have brake shoe toe-in washers stock. I think maybe the qr mech is 
a little different? 

VO has the stiffest arms, TRP is close. Shimano not too far behind. Tektro 
always seem kinda flexy and squishy to me, comparatively. And though the 
Tektros definitely stop fine, they also feel cheaper overall, have a 
clunkier/wonkier qr mech as well.

To those who are sensitive to cable pull issues, you may want to explore 
further which calipers work better with which levers. 

Miche also made, or maybe still makes, a longer-reach dual-pivot caliper. I 
remember thinking about snagging a set some years back, just to check 'em 
out, but never did.

Paul Brodek
Hillsdale, NJ USA

On Tuesday, July 28, 2020 at 12:57:10 PM UTC-4, Patrick Moore wrote:
>
> I'm curious about alternatives to the RG Comp single pivot for the 
> (single, front) brake for my 1999 Riv fixed gear. The RGC stops well and 
> modulates well but has a habit of loosening, and the allen-head locknut is, 
> as I discovered again yesterday, very finicky to tighten correctly -- I 
> don't seem to be able to tighten firmly it against the pivot nut without 
> binding the arms; IOW, I have to leave the allen locknut loose (applied 
> blue Loctite, though). 
>
> Therefore the question: If you were relying on a single front caliper, and 
> you like old fashioned and silver, what would you install?
>
> In particular, the VO G Cru long-reaches:
> (
> https://velo-orange.com/collections/brakes/products/grand-cru-long-reach-brakes
> )
>
> Note: Prefer allen head, but nutted will be considered.
>
> I do like dual pivots overall for their power and ease of setup, but too 
> many look klunky and bulky. The VOs aren't bad; what do you-plural think of 
> them?
>
> And: If you each individually should have a nice such brake to sell, 
> please do tell me. In particular, if you have a front VO G Cru in silver to 
> sell, I'm interested; I don't want to buy a $170 pair if I don't have to.
>
> (And: Refresh my memory: Can I use a nutted rear in front with a longish 
> allen nut? I think I can, but please confirm.)
>
> Thanks.
>
> -- 
>
> ---
> Patrick Moore
> Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Paul Netro-Retro Cantilevers & Straddle Cable Height: where is your happy place?

2020-07-28 Thread 'John Phillips' via RBW Owners Bunch

So maybe the question I should be asking is, if you're happy with your Paul 
Neo-Retro's, what rims and brake pads are you using???

   I could be completely confused by the math, but it looks to me as though 
there is a curve to the response of wider profile canti's to straddle 
height, but that curve in the response is so low, I would have to put the 
straddle cable though the middle of my tire, at least if I'm trying to 
match the braking of my Touring Cant's in the rear. And I don't believe 
this solution would work out for me in my situation. 

   Thanks Bill, I'm guessing the stock Shimano pads were black compound 
pads? I'm also using Cliffhanger rims, mine are the plain silver ones, but 
I was also thinking about trying out either the black or the dual 
black/salmon Kool-Stops to see if they exorcised the shrieking banshees in 
my bike.
 
John

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[RBW] Re: Paul Netro-Retro Cantilevers & Straddle Cable Height: where is your happy place?

2020-07-28 Thread lconley

My understanding of the math is that the shorter and straighter the 
transverse cable, the more mechanical advantage for both wide angle 
(Neo-Retro) and medium angle (Touring) cantilevers, just more so for the 
medium angle, but it still helps the wide angle. If you have both, put the 
Touring cantilevers on the front where most of the braking is done and 
the Neo-Retros on the rear.

The distance between the arm and the pad is also important, make sure that 
the narrow spacers are on the inside between the pad and arm and the wide 
spacers are on the outside of the arm, I believe that this is more 
important on the Neo-Retro wide angle models. This rotates the wide angle 
arm up so that its geometry is ever so slightly closer to the medium angle 
arm geometry.

Laing
Delray Beach FL


>>

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[RBW] Re: Paul Netro-Retro Cantilevers & Straddle Cable Height: where is your happy place?

The math indicates that all wide profile cantilevers have a very flat 
response to straddle height.  In other words straddle height doesn't matter 
with Paul Neo-Retros.  If that's the only variable you change you'll 
probably get frustrated because the result won't change much.  If they feel 
great, lucky you because small changes in straddle height will leave them 
feeling great.  If they feel lousy, bummer, because you may feel like you 
are "fiddling" all day and nothing is changing.  

The math indicates that all narrow profile cantilevers have a very steep 
response to straddle height.  In other words straddle height is super 
important with Paul Touring Cantilevers.  If you change straddle height to 
avoid your front rack you may get frustrated because the resulting brake 
feel will change completely.  

I've got lots of set up experience with both, but neither is in my current 
stable.  I also find that the rim/brakepad interaction is terribly 
underrated.  Too many people think koolstop salmon solves all problems, and 
I've found that is not necessarily the case.  Virtually nobody talks about 
the rim as a contributor, save as a consumable wear-item.  I think some 
rims make poor brake rotors, and I know some rim/brakepad combos are not 
good.  

My anectdote, which is no more than an anectdote, is my 650B Atlantis.  I 
chose to run black Cliffhangers (from Riv) because Riv runs them on alot of 
builds and I trust them.  I blindly upgraded the stock Shimano pads in CX70 
brakes to KoolStop salmon inserts and the braking sucked (for lack of a 
better word).  They went from nothing to grabby, and the only thing that 
modulated was the pitch of the howl.  Please take my word for it, I know 
how to set up brakes.  I blamed in part the black anodized non-machined 
sidewalls of the Cliffhanger rims.  Rather than buy new rims to prove my 
own diagnosis, I switched back to the stock Shimano pads and everything was 
remarkably improved.  From howling to silent, from grabby to controllable 
modulation.  Now the braking is among the best I've used.  So for that 
machine, KoolStop salmons were the wrong choice.  Your mileage may vary.  

Bill Lindsay
El Cerrito, CA
On Tuesday, July 28, 2020 at 12:16:27 PM UTC-7 John Phillips wrote:

> Hi, my question is:
>
>   * If, and only if, you are happy with your Paul Neo-Retros, what is the 
> height of your straddle cable / cable carrier in relation to the pivots of 
> your brakes?*
>   
>I'm trying on adjust my Neo-Retro canti's to brake as well, or close to 
> as well, as the Paul Touring cant's I have on the back of my Hunqapillar.  
> I'm using Paul Canti levers with both. I've read through the info on the 
> Black Mountain Cycles blog, and the pdf document Mike Varley has a link to, 
> but I'm still not getting the braking I'm hoping for. I'd like to keep the 
> straddle cable at least high enough to clear the hole in my fork crown, and 
> the Nitto front rack mounted there, if only for safety's sake.
>
>I've read here that some people found Neo-Retro's frustrating, but some 
> people love them. So, I'm hoping your anecdotes and testimonials will point 
> me in the right direction, 'cause I'm puzzled.
>
> Thanks for your help,
> John
>

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[RBW] Paul Netro-Retro Cantilevers & Straddle Cable Height: where is your happy place?

2020-07-28 Thread 'John Phillips' via RBW Owners Bunch

Hi, my question is:

  * If, and only if, you are happy with your Paul Neo-Retros, what is the 
height of your straddle cable / cable carrier in relation to the pivots of 
your brakes?*
  
   I'm trying on adjust my Neo-Retro canti's to brake as well, or close to 
as well, as the Paul Touring cant's I have on the back of my Hunqapillar.  
I'm using Paul Canti levers with both. I've read through the info on the 
Black Mountain Cycles blog, and the pdf document Mike Varley has a link to, 
but I'm still not getting the braking I'm hoping for. I'd like to keep the 
straddle cable at least high enough to clear the hole in my fork crown, and 
the Nitto front rack mounted there, if only for safety's sake.

   I've read here that some people found Neo-Retro's frustrating, but some 
people love them. So, I'm hoping your anecdotes and testimonials will point 
me in the right direction, 'cause I'm puzzled.

Thanks for your help,
John

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[RBW] Re: Suggestions for powerful, silver, light, 57 mm-reach front caliper brake for fixed gear

2020-07-28 Thread Shoji Takahashi

Hi Patrick,
For my AHH, I've used Tektro/Silver long reach from Riv and Paul Racer 
(Center Pull). I really like the Pauls for brake feel and setup... but 
those are even $$$pendier(?) than VO Gran Cru!

Good luck,
Shoji



On Tuesday, July 28, 2020 at 12:57:10 PM UTC-4, Patrick Moore wrote:
>
> I'm curious about alternatives to the RG Comp single pivot for the 
> (single, front) brake for my 1999 Riv fixed gear. The RGC stops well and 
> modulates well but has a habit of loosening, and the allen-head locknut is, 
> as I discovered again yesterday, very finicky to tighten correctly -- I 
> don't seem to be able to tighten firmly it against the pivot nut without 
> binding the arms; IOW, I have to leave the allen locknut loose (applied 
> blue Loctite, though). 
>
> Therefore the question: If you were relying on a single front caliper, and 
> you like old fashioned and silver, what would you install?
>
> In particular, the VO G Cru long-reaches:
> (
> https://velo-orange.com/collections/brakes/products/grand-cru-long-reach-brakes
>  
> 
> )
>
> Note: Prefer allen head, but nutted will be considered.
>
> I do like dual pivots overall for their power and ease of setup, but too 
> many look klunky and bulky. The VOs aren't bad; what do you-plural think of 
> them?
>
> And: If you each individually should have a nice such brake to sell, 
> please do tell me. In particular, if you have a front VO G Cru in silver to 
> sell, I'm interested; I don't want to buy a $170 pair if I don't have to.
>
> (And: Refresh my memory: Can I use a nutted rear in front with a longish 
> allen nut? I think I can, but please confirm.)
>
> Thanks.
>
> -- 
>
> ---
> Patrick Moore
> Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Suggestions for powerful, silver, light, 57 mm-reach front caliper brake for fixed gear

2020-07-28 Thread Brian Campbell

These look to be in ballpark

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Tektro-R737-Long-Reach-Road-Caliper-Set-47-57mm-Silver/174333486467?epid=1137973691&hash=item289715e583:g:NUMAAOSwelhe-1or

If
On Tuesday, July 28, 2020 at 1:37:13 PM UTC-4 Patrick Moore wrote:

> This just in: Fixed loosening locknut problem by fixing another. What it 
> is I am ashamed to reveal on list. But the RGC caliper seems to be back to 
> design normal.
>
> But, still interested in hearing your opinions about your favorite front 
> calipers, and about the VO GC dual pivot in particular.
>
> Thanks.
>
> Patrick "Learning about his mistakes again, and again, and again, and 
> again, and again ..." Moore
>
> On Tue, Jul 28, 2020 at 10:56 AM Patrick Moore  wrote:
>
>> I'm curious about alternatives to the RG Comp single pivot for the 
>> (single, front) brake for my 1999 Riv fixed gear. The RGC stops well and 
>> modulates well but has a habit of loosening, and the allen-head locknut is, 
>> as I discovered again yesterday, very finicky to tighten correctly -- I 
>> don't seem to be able to tighten firmly it against the pivot nut without 
>> binding the arms; IOW, I have to leave the allen locknut loose (applied 
>> blue Loctite, though). 
>>
>> Therefore the question: If you were relying on a single front caliper, 
>> and you like old fashioned and silver, what would you install?
>>
>> In particular, the VO G Cru long-reaches:
>> (
>> https://velo-orange.com/collections/brakes/products/grand-cru-long-reach-brakes
>> )
>>
>> Note: Prefer allen head, but nutted will be considered.
>>
>> I do like dual pivots overall for their power and ease of setup, but too 
>> many look klunky and bulky. The VOs aren't bad; what do you-plural think of 
>> them?
>>
>> And: If you each individually should have a nice such brake to sell, 
>> please do tell me. In particular, if you have a front VO G Cru in silver to 
>> sell, I'm interested; I don't want to buy a $170 pair if I don't have to.
>>
>> (And: Refresh my memory: Can I use a nutted rear in front with a longish 
>> allen nut? I think I can, but please confirm.)
>>
>> Thanks.
>>
>> -- 
>>
>> ---
>> Patrick Moore
>> Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum
>>
>>
>
> -- 
>
> ---
> Patrick Moore
> Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Suggestions for powerful, silver, light, 57 mm-reach front caliper brake for fixed gear

This just in: Fixed loosening locknut problem by fixing another. What it is
I am ashamed to reveal on list. But the RGC caliper seems to be back to
design normal.

But, still interested in hearing your opinions about your favorite front
calipers, and about the VO GC dual pivot in particular.

Thanks.

Patrick "Learning about his mistakes again, and again, and again, and
again, and again ..." Moore

On Tue, Jul 28, 2020 at 10:56 AM Patrick Moore  wrote:

> I'm curious about alternatives to the RG Comp single pivot for the
> (single, front) brake for my 1999 Riv fixed gear. The RGC stops well and
> modulates well but has a habit of loosening, and the allen-head locknut is,
> as I discovered again yesterday, very finicky to tighten correctly -- I
> don't seem to be able to tighten firmly it against the pivot nut without
> binding the arms; IOW, I have to leave the allen locknut loose (applied
> blue Loctite, though).
>
> Therefore the question: If you were relying on a single front caliper, and
> you like old fashioned and silver, what would you install?
>
> In particular, the VO G Cru long-reaches:
> (
> https://velo-orange.com/collections/brakes/products/grand-cru-long-reach-brakes
> )
>
> Note: Prefer allen head, but nutted will be considered.
>
> I do like dual pivots overall for their power and ease of setup, but too
> many look klunky and bulky. The VOs aren't bad; what do you-plural think of
> them?
>
> And: If you each individually should have a nice such brake to sell,
> please do tell me. In particular, if you have a front VO G Cru in silver to
> sell, I'm interested; I don't want to buy a $170 pair if I don't have to.
>
> (And: Refresh my memory: Can I use a nutted rear in front with a longish
> allen nut? I think I can, but please confirm.)
>
> Thanks.
>
> --
>
> ---
> Patrick Moore
> Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum
>
>

-- 

---
Patrick Moore
Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum

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Re: [RBW] Re: Can you safely convert a 126/130 hub to 135?

I only did the card in the spokes one but that orange bike has a seat like
my first bike, a Columbia fat tire by today's standards, or I guess we
could call that a Newsboy bike, I did deliver papers on it for a friend
from time to time.

On Tue, Jul 28, 2020 at 1:10 PM Garth  wrote:

>
> I know what you mean about the freehub thing, as just last year I finally
> decided to own rear wheel with a Deore freehub. I was and am still using
> Sachs 7-speed freewheels and Phil hubs. I have plenty of FW's but I wanted
> to try the 12-36 9-speed cassette. How is it ? Brand new they lacked much
> grease and were badly overtightened, but a good bunch of grease in there
> and proper adjustment it works perfectly, *and it's quiet*, just like my
> Sachs hubs. What I dislike of most freehubs is the noise that almost all
> but the Shimano and I believe the Velocity ATB hubs exhibit. Putting cards
> in the spokes was alright for about 1 minute as a kid, then off they went.
> Sheesh what was I thinking ?!! Maybe those kids that thought the noise was
> cool grew up and are designing the freehubs of today  hah !  How about
> a "stealth" version, if you're so smart !
>
> Here's some trivia for all us kids from back in the day  and science
> fiction for all the rest !  There's a Bombastic surprise in there
> somewhere, when I saw it I did a double take  "Hey I have one of those
> !"
>
>
> https://www.mentalfloss.com/article/58191/11-ways-kids-used-soup-their-bikes
>
>
> On Tuesday, July 28, 2020 at 11:05:05 AM UTC-4, Joel Stern wrote:
>>
>> Thanks Rich.  I really am fighting doing to a freehub.
>>
>>
>> --
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> .
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Re: [RBW] Re: Can you safely convert a 126/130 hub to 135?

I know what you mean about the freehub thing, as just last year I finally 
decided to own rear wheel with a Deore freehub. I was and am still using 
Sachs 7-speed freewheels and Phil hubs. I have plenty of FW's but I wanted 
to try the 12-36 9-speed cassette. How is it ? Brand new they lacked much 
grease and were badly overtightened, but a good bunch of grease in there 
and proper adjustment it works perfectly, *and it's quiet*, just like my 
Sachs hubs. What I dislike of most freehubs is the noise that almost all 
but the Shimano and I believe the Velocity ATB hubs exhibit. Putting cards 
in the spokes was alright for about 1 minute as a kid, then off they went. 
Sheesh what was I thinking ?!! Maybe those kids that thought the noise was 
cool grew up and are designing the freehubs of today  hah !  How about 
a "stealth" version, if you're so smart ! 

Here's some trivia for all us kids from back in the day  and science 
fiction for all the rest !  There's a Bombastic surprise in there 
somewhere, when I saw it I did a double take  "Hey I have one of those 
!" 

https://www.mentalfloss.com/article/58191/11-ways-kids-used-soup-their-bikes

On Tuesday, July 28, 2020 at 11:05:05 AM UTC-4, Joel Stern wrote:
>
> Thanks Rich.  I really am fighting doing to a freehub.  
>
>
>

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[RBW] Suggestions for powerful, silver, light, 57 mm-reach front caliper brake for fixed gear

I'm curious about alternatives to the RG Comp single pivot for the (single,
front) brake for my 1999 Riv fixed gear. The RGC stops well and modulates
well but has a habit of loosening, and the allen-head locknut is, as I
discovered again yesterday, very finicky to tighten correctly -- I don't
seem to be able to tighten firmly it against the pivot nut without binding
the arms; IOW, I have to leave the allen locknut loose (applied blue
Loctite, though).

Therefore the question: If you were relying on a single front caliper, and
you like old fashioned and silver, what would you install?

In particular, the VO G Cru long-reaches:
(
https://velo-orange.com/collections/brakes/products/grand-cru-long-reach-brakes
)

Note: Prefer allen head, but nutted will be considered.

I do like dual pivots overall for their power and ease of setup, but too
many look klunky and bulky. The VOs aren't bad; what do you-plural think of
them?

And: If you each individually should have a nice such brake to sell, please
do tell me. In particular, if you have a front VO G Cru in silver to sell,
I'm interested; I don't want to buy a $170 pair if I don't have to.

(And: Refresh my memory: Can I use a nutted rear in front with a longish
allen nut? I think I can, but please confirm.)

Thanks.

---
Patrick Moore
Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum

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[RBW] Re: Appaloosa & Atlantis Toe Overlap

Hello Bill.

This is incredibly helpful, thank you. I love the overlap photos. I just 
went out to my bikes and did some measuring, and comparing with your images 
is helpful. From what I can see the new 54 Appaloosa has almost identical 
front-center as your older 55. So it may have the same issue as yours for 
me, too. Actually the specs are identical except the TT is a smidge lower.

Atlantis is way out there!

Best.

Paul

On Tuesday, July 28, 2020 at 11:55:16 AM UTC-4 Bill Lindsay wrote:

> Paul
>
> I had a 55 first run Appaloosa.  The only major shortcoming of the 55 
> Appaloosa for me was the TCO, and my opinion that it should have been a 
> 650B bike.  My every day commute involved two spots where I would have to 
> execute a tight weave through the access gate to a bike path, and at both 
> spots I'd kick the fender hard.  
>
> I have the first run MIT 650B Atlantis.  My test-ride with Grant was 
> immortalized in a Blagh post 
> https://www.rivbike.com/blogs/peeking-through-the-knothole/post-holiday
>
> The first run 56cm 650B Atlantis does not have TCO for me.  I actually did 
> a small photo-essay of the TCO situation of my entire stable:  
> https://www.flickr.com/photos/45758191@N04/albums/72157713520401717  
>
> I think the even-more-current Atlantis and Appaloosa may avoid TCO as 
> well, with an even longer front-center.  Those bikes will require some sort 
> of swept back bar for most riders.  My Atlantis is that brief combo that 
> has a short enough top tube to run drop bars, and 650B wheels to avoid 
> TCO.  For those reasons, it's my perfect Atlantis.  I wouldn't change a 
> thing.
>
> Bill Lindsay
> El Cerrito, CA
> On Tuesday, July 28, 2020 at 5:01:37 AM UTC-7 ☆ Paul ☆ wrote:
>
>> Hello All. 
>>
>> Does anyone have toe overlap issues on a Joe Appaloosa with fat 50-ish 
>> tires and fenders?
>> How about the first run MIT 650B Atlantis?
>>
>> I have big Sneakers (13) but am not terribly tall (5’11) and find overlap 
>> to be an issue on my 700c Homer with 40c tires and fenders. The tips of all 
>> my sneakers have run marks and I find myself hitting the fenders now 
>> frequently. So am thinking about switching things around and trying to hunt 
>> up a different model frame to use as a fast townie. 
>>
>> I do ride on the balls of my feet, not my heels. 🙂 
>>
>> Thank you!
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: Website is live featuring beautiful bikes & surroundings

2020-07-28 Thread somervillebikes

Well done. Nice photos. Bikes and beautiful landscapes have always had a 
special place in my heart. Thanks for posting!

Anton
velolumino.com


On Saturday, July 25, 2020 at 9:05:09 PM UTC-4, Andrew Turner wrote:
>
> COVID gave me time to spruce up my website  and 
> it's at a point where I'm comfortable making it public. The majority of it 
> is dedicated to riding and the surroundings I'm lucky enough to see and 
> document, so I figured I'd share it here. 
>
> Enjoy! 
> - Andrew
>

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[RBW] Re: Want to Buy Albastache handlebar

2020-07-28 Thread James Perryman

I have a like new pair (~20 miles) I will not be using.

Reach out if you are still looking. handicapjoe at  gmail

On Tuesday, July 28, 2020 at 8:48:51 AM UTC-7 Irv Hoffman wrote:

> Store at RBW is out of stock, so if anyone wants to sell, I'm the buyer
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Anybody regret their Cheviot sweater?

2020-07-28 Thread Lyman Labry

Hi all, if there’s a Medium Size cheviot sweater In good condition
available out there, I’d be interested.  Thanks,
Lyman

On Tue, Jul 28, 2020 at 10:48 AM MTR  wrote:

> how much to big? i'm interested in buying it
>
>
>
> On Friday, July 24, 2020 at 2:52:54 PM UTC-7, Mike Packard wrote:
>>
>> I ordered an XXL (5-11, 230) and it seems too big. Only wore it a couple
>> times. I'd trade mine for an XL or sell it if no one wants to trade. It is
>> a great sweater.
>>
>> Mike
>>
>>
>> On Thursday, July 23, 2020 at 7:11:52 PM UTC-7 Matt Beecher wrote:
>>
>>> I saw that Rivendell offered a sweater vest recently, but as someone
>>> with unusually long arms, I regretted not buying one of the sleeved variety
>>> last year. I have such a hard time finding long enough sleeves that I never
>>> expected the Riv sweater to fit.
>>>
>>> What did people think of them? Does anyone regret their purchase?
>>>
>>> Does anyone have an XL available? I might also consider a L.
>>>
>>> Thanks,
>>> Matt B
>>> Oswego, IL
>>>
>> --
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> 
> .
>

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[RBW] Re: for sale Romulus 59 frame, 46" Noodle 177 from original owner.

I'd get in line also...

Bill

On Tuesday, July 28, 2020 at 9:04:09 AM UTC-7 WETH wrote:

> Irv,
> I might be interested. Any photos? What’s your price? And to clarify, when 
> you say brake posts do you mean it is the canti Romulus? 
> Thanks,
> Erl
> Kensington, MD

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[RBW] for sale Romulus 59 frame, 46" Noodle 177 from original owner.

2020-07-28 Thread WETH

Irv,
I might be interested. Any photos? What’s your price? And to clarify, when you 
say brake posts do you mean it is the canti Romulus?  
Thanks,
Erl
Kensington, MD

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[RBW] for sale Romulus 59 frame, 46" Noodle 177 from original owner.

2020-07-28 Thread Matt Beecher

Price?  Location? Photos?

Best regards,
Matt B
Oswego, IL

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[RBW] Re: Bike Racks, non hitch recommendations.

2020-07-28 Thread Jack K

Hi all,

Likely not a good choice for Joel, since he's mentioned only needing 
occasional use, but I thought I'd mention a rack that appears to fill a 
unique niche in the marketplace and was the only cost effective solution I 
found for my rack needs ...  The Thule Raceway Platform PRO 2 is a bumper 
mount rack that uses trays to carry 2 bikes, like many hitch racks do; this 
thing:
https://www.thule.com/en-us/bike-rack/trunk-bike-racks/thule-raceway-platform-pro-2-_-1685475

I wanted a hitch mount rack, but the cheapest hitch I could find for my 
vehicle was $800+, then another $300+ for the rack, which doesn't seem like 
a prudent investment on a 15 year old car. Supporting the weight of a bike 
on it's wheels makes a lot more sense to me than creating a couple of point 
loads not far from the center of the bike's top tube, which most trunk 
mount racks do. In my case the bike I wanted to transport doesn't have a 
top tube, so trays were preferred, if not required. I'm not aware of 
another tray style rack that's also bumper mount, so I was pretty excited 
to find this model Thule. Not cheap, but I found mine for $300 brand new, 
in the box, so there are deals out there. 

I also have a Saris Bones 2 rack that I've had for 15-ish years and still 
use to transport my tandem occasionally. People seem to love the Bones and 
it was state of the art 20 years ago, but if you compare the methods and 
materials it uses to secure the bicycle(s) to the rack and the rack to the 
car it's apparent that rack technology has continued to advance and racks 
like my Thule Raceway Pro Platform or other premium models are in a 
different league. They'll cost more than a Bones, even used, but after 
having my prized Bridgestone RB-1's top-tube damaged on a older "hang by 
the top-tube" rack a couple of years ago I'm willing to spend a bit for a 
rack that better protects my bike, my car and my nerves. 

-Jack

On Sunday, July 19, 2020 at 6:34:41 PM UTC-4, Joel Stern wrote:
>
> I used to use a Thule then I went roof rack.  Can’t do that now due to 
> lifting.  I have a sedan and my wife has a Crosstrek, would like a rack for 
> 2 bikes I can use on both.  What are you using and/or recommending?  
>
> Thanks. 
>
> Joel 
>

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[RBW] Re: Appaloosa & Atlantis Toe Overlap

Paul

I had a 55 first run Appaloosa.  The only major shortcoming of the 55 
Appaloosa for me was the TCO, and my opinion that it should have been a 
650B bike.  My every day commute involved two spots where I would have to 
execute a tight weave through the access gate to a bike path, and at both 
spots I'd kick the fender hard.  

I have the first run MIT 650B Atlantis.  My test-ride with Grant was 
immortalized in a Blagh post 
https://www.rivbike.com/blogs/peeking-through-the-knothole/post-holiday

The first run 56cm 650B Atlantis does not have TCO for me.  I actually did 
a small photo-essay of the TCO situation of my entire stable:  
https://www.flickr.com/photos/45758191@N04/albums/72157713520401717  

I think the even-more-current Atlantis and Appaloosa may avoid TCO as well, 
with an even longer front-center.  Those bikes will require some sort of 
swept back bar for most riders.  My Atlantis is that brief combo that has a 
short enough top tube to run drop bars, and 650B wheels to avoid TCO.  For 
those reasons, it's my perfect Atlantis.  I wouldn't change a thing.

Bill Lindsay
El Cerrito, CA
On Tuesday, July 28, 2020 at 5:01:37 AM UTC-7 ☆ Paul ☆ wrote:

> Hello All. 
>
> Does anyone have toe overlap issues on a Joe Appaloosa with fat 50-ish 
> tires and fenders?
> How about the first run MIT 650B Atlantis?
>
> I have big Sneakers (13) but am not terribly tall (5’11) and find overlap 
> to be an issue on my 700c Homer with 40c tires and fenders. The tips of all 
> my sneakers have run marks and I find myself hitting the fenders now 
> frequently. So am thinking about switching things around and trying to hunt 
> up a different model frame to use as a fast townie. 
>
> I do ride on the balls of my feet, not my heels. 🙂 
>
> Thank you!
>
>
>
>
>
>

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[RBW] WTB: Clem H 52

2020-07-28 Thread Doug H.

I thought I had snagged a Clem H 52 but the seller has gone radio silent. 
If you have one I'm wanting to work on a bike build while I contemplate the 
upcoming Platypus.
Doug Hansford

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[RBW] Re: Anybody regret their Cheviot sweater?

2020-07-28 Thread Robert Sharp

It looks like Rivendell's latest sweater is designed with you in mind: no 
sleeves! Get in on the pre-sale now

https://www.rivbike.com/collections/clothing/products/cheviot-woolywarm-vest


Bob


On Thursday, July 23, 2020 at 10:11:52 PM UTC-4, Matt Beecher wrote:
>
> I saw that Rivendell offered a sweater vest recently, but as someone with 
> unusually long arms, I regretted not buying one of the sleeved variety last 
> year.  I have such a hard time finding long enough sleeves that I never 
> expected the Riv sweater to fit. 
>
> What did people think of them?  Does anyone regret their purchase?
>
> Does anyone have an XL available?  I might also consider a L.
>
> Thanks,
> Matt B
> Oswego, IL
>
>

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[RBW] Re: For sale: brazed, Ni-plated Nitto goodies

2020-07-28 Thread Zach A

R-14 and bullmoose are sold.


On Tuesday, July 21, 2020 at 7:55:30 PM UTC-6 diekaiser wrote:

>
> Interested in the bars and r14! 
>
> Give me a holler at ursasveritas@gmail
> On Monday, July 20, 2020 at 7:16:23 AM UTC-7 Zach A wrote:
>
>> Hi all,
>>
>> I need money so I'm selling some old favorites I've been hoarding.  
>> Prices include shipping in continental US:
>>
>> dull-bright Bullmoose (short reach version) - $100
>> R-14 rear rack  - $100
>> 34F Big Front Rack -  $150
>>
>> All are in good condition but not flawless.  E.g. there's a bit of rust 
>> on one end of the handlebar where a wee bit of nickel flaked off (inside's 
>> good--treated with T9), the front aluminum struts/stays on the R-14 are a 
>> little haggard from bending to fit my old bombadil... oh and the 
>> blotches  on the 34F and bullmoose are bar tape residue, not scuffs or 
>> dents :)
>>
>> PM me if you're interested in more pics.
>>
>> Cheers,
>>
>> Zach
>>
>> [image: IMG_0141.JPG]
>>
>>
>>
>>

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[RBW] Blog post about my Blériot

2020-07-28 Thread Aaron Russell

Hey there, long-time lurker here. I started a blog about my randonneuring
activity late last year, and decided to write a post centered on the
Rivendell Blériot that I bought on eBay from a seller in Arizona back in
2009 and have been riding ever since. Thought I'd share it with this list
in case anyone wants to check it out. Also if anyone on here happens to
have been the original seller, the bike sure worked out great! (The post
includes the text of the original listing.)

https://rando12051.com/bleriot/

Cheers, Aaron

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Re: [RBW] Re: Website is live featuring beautiful bikes & surroundings

2020-07-28 Thread Vincent Tamer

Beautiful pics man! You've inspired me to do the same! 

On Sunday, July 26, 2020 at 8:19:46 PM UTC-7 Clark Fitzgerald wrote:

> Nice pics, thanks for sharing. Your bikes look immaculate!
>
> On Sunday, July 26, 2020 at 7:19:41 PM UTC-7 Patrick Moore wrote:
>
>> Andrew: Thanks for those *apercus*. I am corrected about the Roadini, 
>> and am happy to be so corrected because, if the Roadini is more "spritely" 
>> (technical term) than the Ram, and since the Ram was a decently performing, 
>> if not orgasmically wonderful bike, the Roadini wil indeed be something 
>> desirable to ride.
>>
>>
>> On Sun, Jul 26, 2020 at 6:21 PM Andrew Turner  
>> wrote:
>>
>>> So the Ram actually belongs to my father but I've snuck in enough rides 
>>> to still form a decent opinion despite different saddle preferences. 
>>>
>>> Between the Ram and the Roadini unloaded, I would say the Roadini is a 
>>> more lively, springy ride, most notably in the front end. I only weigh 
>>> 130lbs so all this 'frame flex' shenanigans usually means bupkis to me but 
>>> that's not the case on the Roadini. Both are superb handlers but the 
>>> Roadini adds a new spice to the dish. 
>>>
>>> Now as far as ease of pedaling is concerned, that's a bit tricky because 
>>> I think the two bikes want two different things to perform at their best. 
>>> To get the most out of a Roadini would mean packing as few things as 
>>> possible and riding it as a dedicated road bike. The Ram, I feel wants just 
>>> a little bit more weight on it's back, but again that's coming from Mr. 
>>> Twig. From my perspective then, I'd say the Roadini was the easier pedaler. 
>>>
>>> So if you're looking for a more spirited yet comfortable ride, I'd 
>>> choose the Roadini, but if you're like me and want to pack more than you 
>>> need for rides, I'd go with the Ram. At the end of the day though, both 
>>> would get you to where you need to be with energy to spare. 
>>>
>>> - Andrew
>>>
>>> On Sunday, July 26, 2020 at 5:55:17 PM UTC-5 Patrick Moore wrote:
>>>
 On Sun, Jul 26, 2020 at 4:25 PM RichS  wrote:

> ...
>
 Are the ride characteristics of your Roadini and Ram similar? 
> Appearance wise the Ram looks a touch more stout than the Roadini.
>

 I'd be interested in hearing about the differences, too. I owned a 
 blue-era Ram; nice bike. For some reason I got the impression that the 
 Roadini had rather stout tubing, like that of the Sam Hillborne, for 
 example, but I can't back up that opinion. My 2 questions:

 How does handling differ, if it does?

 How does "ease of pedaling"* differ, if it does?

 *This is how I judge which bikes I like to ride: the "nice" ones feel 
 easier to pedal, as measured by the desire to shift to a smaller cog in 
 given conditions.

  

> Looking forward to seeing more of your landscape images down the road. 
> Thanks again.
>

 +1 

 Patrick Moore, who was just this morning once again surprised by the 
 "easy to pedal" quality of his 1999 Riv Road fixed gofast after 21 years 
 of 
 such surprises.

 ---
 Patrick Moore
 Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum

 -- 
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>>> 
>>> .
>>>
>>
>>
>> -- 
>>
>> ---
>> Patrick Moore
>> Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum
>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: Paul Mini Moto brakes

2020-07-28 Thread C.McMann

Do you have any pictures? I’m looking to run the exact same setup.

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[RBW] WTB Brooks Titanium B17

2020-07-28 Thread Alex K

Looking for a saddle for my Clem H.Brown or Black will work, but not the 
Honey colorjust seeing what’s out there.  Thanks!

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[RBW] Re: daily post ur riv

Joe out on the town. 

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[RBW] for sale Romulus 59 frame, 46" Noodle 177 from original owner.

2020-07-28 Thread Irv Hoffman

This spring received new Appaloosa frame and moved all components from my 
Romulus. The Romulus is a 59 cm frame with brake posts, bought new the year 
they were available. It came with a 46 cm Noodle bar that was never used. I 
want to sell the Romulus frame and the noodle bar.

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[RBW] WTB pavement-oriented Riv (78 PBH)

2020-07-28 Thread zem...@gmail.com

I've been looking into getting a new Roadini, but before I'm do, I'm 
curious if anyone has anything they'd like to part with

My PBH is 78, so I'd be a 50cm in the Roadinis or 47.5cm in the MIT AHHs. 
Not sure about the older models. 

Thanks all!

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[RBW] Re: daily post ur riv

2020-07-28 Thread Doug H.

That looks so nice J Imler. That shade of green is just about perfect and 
the silver components and wheels look good with the color. So, what are 
your components, etc?
Doug Hansford

On Thursday, July 23, 2020 at 4:19:38 PM UTC-4, J Imler wrote:
>
> 59 Clem L. Happy medium build
>
>

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[RBW] Weird handlebar idea

2020-07-28 Thread Zack Medow

Ok so for me the perfect road handlebar would allow me to run drop bar break 
levers in the typical way for “endurance” riding, then with back sweep to allow 
me to sit up and change my back angle. Basically I’m visualizing this as an 
albastache bar but with the break levers vertical instead of horizontal. Or 
like a dirt drop, but with all the hand positions existing on the same plane. 

I could see how you’d do this by bending the tubes down in the way you 
typically would on a drop bar, and then sideways and back for the sit-up 
position. Has anyone ever seen a bar like this? Is this a very stupid idea? 

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[RBW] Want to Buy Albastache handlebar

2020-07-28 Thread Irv Hoffman

Store at RBW is out of stock, so if anyone wants to sell, I'm the buyer

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[RBW] Re: FS: Bikes on eBay, CraigsLIst, and Other Sites

2020-07-28 Thread Kelly Mulholland

That 64 cm Quickbeam in the DC area is mine! I am the second owner and got it 
from another list member. I’d love to keep it in the group, let me know if you 
have any questions

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[RBW] Re: Shoe recommendations for wet fall

2020-07-28 Thread Adam Lyon

Patrick--I was looking at these boiled socks and gloves that you rep and 
wondered what thickness you use in the winter. What're the differences in 
warmth / dexterity / etc. between the 3- and 4-ply styles? I emailed the 
company but got a mangled, jargon-y nonanswer in reply...

Thanks!
Adam

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[RBW] WTB Nitto Bosco Moose bars

2020-07-28 Thread Greg Murphy

Preferably in 540mm. 

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Re: [RBW] Re: daily post ur riv

2020-07-28 Thread Brendan McLaughlin

Looks great! Can I ask what wheel size you used? I'm about to build up a 59
Clem H. Thanks and congrats!

On Thu, Jul 23, 2020 at 4:19 PM J Imler  wrote:

>  59 Clem L. Happy medium build
>
> --
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> .
>

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[RBW] Re: Bike Racks, non hitch recommendations.

I too use and like the saris bones on my wife’s car. I like it just fine. I’ve 
never had an issue. I got it used for next to nothing.  My only recommendation 
with any of these types of racks would be to use a few pieces of clear bra, or 
helicopter tape to protect the car paint. 

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[RBW] Re: Appaloosa & Atlantis Toe Overlap

I have a Joe Appaloosa with 50mm soma Cazadero tires on it, Fenders, and no to 
overlap at all. My bike is a 59 cm, I’m 6 foot 2. Toe overlap becomes more of 
an issue in smaller sized frames however.

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[RBW] WTB Clem Smith Jr. 59cm

I would like to obtain a Clem in 59. I’d prefer mustard or green as I’ve got a 
silver bike already.  I’m in Indianapolis but would pay for shipping. 

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[RBW] Re: Anybody regret their Cheviot sweater?

2020-07-28 Thread MTR

how much to big? i'm interested in buying it



On Friday, July 24, 2020 at 2:52:54 PM UTC-7, Mike Packard wrote:
>
> I ordered an XXL (5-11, 230) and it seems too big. Only wore it a couple 
> times. I'd trade mine for an XL or sell it if no one wants to trade. It is 
> a great sweater.
>
> Mike
>
>
> On Thursday, July 23, 2020 at 7:11:52 PM UTC-7 Matt Beecher wrote:
>
>> I saw that Rivendell offered a sweater vest recently, but as someone with 
>> unusually long arms, I regretted not buying one of the sleeved variety last 
>> year. I have such a hard time finding long enough sleeves that I never 
>> expected the Riv sweater to fit. 
>>
>> What did people think of them? Does anyone regret their purchase?
>>
>> Does anyone have an XL available? I might also consider a L.
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Matt B
>> Oswego, IL
>>
>>

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Re: [RBW] Appaloosa & Atlantis Toe Overlap

Ah, understood.

On Tue, Jul 28, 2020 at 9:11 AM ☆ Paul ☆  wrote:

> Hi Patrick.
>
> Thanks for the suggestion.
>
> I generally don't mind toe overlap either, especially on bikes I'm using
> for ore aggressive rides. However this is a city bike that has Bosco bars
> on it and I sit straight up, and in this position there is just a tendency
> to have your feet move further forward some of the time. I think it's just
> the posture that makes TO a bit more of an issue than it would otherwise.
>
> The frame is slightly big on me as well, which is the main reason I'm
> considering replacing it anyway. Just wondering if people generally find TO
> an issue on either of those other models?
>
> Thanks.
>
> On Tuesday, July 28, 2020 at 10:53:25 AM UTC-4 Patrick Moore wrote:
>
>> Just a suggestion, and fwiw: You might try living and riding with TO and
>> see if you adapt. I've been riding bikes with TO/TCO for decades with no
>> problems, even for years commuting on fixed gears with TO and with fenders
>> making even more TO, this often in busy urban traffic, and never had an
>> accident; and currently have a dirt road bike that, with 60 mm tires almost
>> 30" tall and wide fenders over those give almost 3" of TO; again, never
>> fallen due to TO even on sketchy sandy surfaces. Note that I don't do
>> technical singletrack on any bike with TO/TCO.
>>
>> There was TO on my Ram, too even before I added fenders.
>>
>> All this FWIW.
>>
>> On Tue, Jul 28, 2020 at 6:01 AM ☆ Paul ☆  wrote:
>>
>>> Hello All.
>>>
>>> Does anyone have toe overlap issues on a Joe Appaloosa with fat 50-ish
>>> tires and fenders?
>>> How about the first run MIT 650B Atlantis?
>>>
>>> I have big Sneakers (13) but am not terribly tall (5’11) and find
>>> overlap to be an issue on my 700c Homer with 40c tires and fenders. The
>>> tips of all my sneakers have run marks and I find myself hitting the
>>> fenders now frequently. So am thinking about switching things around and
>>> trying to hunt up a different model frame to use as a fast townie.
>>>
>>> I do ride on the balls of my feet, not my heels. 🙂
>>>
>>> Thank you!
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> --
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>>> Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
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>>> 
>>> .
>>>
>>
>>
>> --
>>
>> ---
>> Patrick Moore
>> Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum
>>
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> .
>


-- 

---
Patrick Moore
Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum

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Re: [RBW] Appaloosa & Atlantis Toe Overlap

Hi Patrick.

Thanks for the suggestion. 

I generally don't mind toe overlap either, especially on bikes I'm using 
for ore aggressive rides. However this is a city bike that has Bosco bars 
on it and I sit straight up, and in this position there is just a tendency 
to have your feet move further forward some of the time. I think it's just 
the posture that makes TO a bit more of an issue than it would otherwise.

The frame is slightly big on me as well, which is the main reason I'm 
considering replacing it anyway. Just wondering if people generally find TO 
an issue on either of those other models?

Thanks.

On Tuesday, July 28, 2020 at 10:53:25 AM UTC-4 Patrick Moore wrote:

> Just a suggestion, and fwiw: You might try living and riding with TO and 
> see if you adapt. I've been riding bikes with TO/TCO for decades with no 
> problems, even for years commuting on fixed gears with TO and with fenders 
> making even more TO, this often in busy urban traffic, and never had an 
> accident; and currently have a dirt road bike that, with 60 mm tires almost 
> 30" tall and wide fenders over those give almost 3" of TO; again, never 
> fallen due to TO even on sketchy sandy surfaces. Note that I don't do 
> technical singletrack on any bike with TO/TCO.
>
> There was TO on my Ram, too even before I added fenders.
>
> All this FWIW.
>
> On Tue, Jul 28, 2020 at 6:01 AM ☆ Paul ☆  wrote:
>
>> Hello All. 
>>
>> Does anyone have toe overlap issues on a Joe Appaloosa with fat 50-ish 
>> tires and fenders?
>> How about the first run MIT 650B Atlantis?
>>
>> I have big Sneakers (13) but am not terribly tall (5’11) and find overlap 
>> to be an issue on my 700c Homer with 40c tires and fenders. The tips of all 
>> my sneakers have run marks and I find myself hitting the fenders now 
>> frequently. So am thinking about switching things around and trying to hunt 
>> up a different model frame to use as a fast townie. 
>>
>> I do ride on the balls of my feet, not my heels. 🙂 
>>
>> Thank you!
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> -- 
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>> "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
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>> email to rbw-owners-bun...@googlegroups.com.
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>> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/932627a3-3bc7-49e0-947e-fc836c25164cn%40googlegroups.com
>>  
>> 
>> .
>>
>
>
> -- 
>
> ---
> Patrick Moore
> Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Can you safely convert a 126/130 hub to 135?

But I do see them on the Riv site.

On Tue, Jul 28, 2020 at 10:55 AM Joel Stern  wrote:

> Paul, sounds great.  I never see these hubs come up on eBay.
>
> On Tue, Jul 28, 2020 at 10:36 AM ☆ Paul ☆  wrote:
>
>> Joel:
>>
>> I just converted an old White Industries MI5 hub from 130 to 135 so it'd
>> fit on my Atlantis. White gave me a little end cap that I screwed in on the
>> non-drive side. It took about 3 minutes!
>>
>> Then I had to relish my wheels (or else it wasn't centered)!
>>
>> On Tuesday, July 28, 2020 at 10:12:55 AM UTC-4 RichS wrote:
>>
>>> Joel: thank you for raising this topic. I have a 126 Campy rear hub that
>>> I’ve considered using in 130 spaced dropouts.
>>>
>>> Garth: thank you for relating your experience and providing the Wheels
>>> Mfg. reference.
>>>
>>> Best,
>>> Rich in ATL
>>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Can you safely convert a 126/130 hub to 135?

Paul, sounds great.  I never see these hubs come up on eBay.

On Tue, Jul 28, 2020 at 10:36 AM ☆ Paul ☆  wrote:

> Joel:
>
> I just converted an old White Industries MI5 hub from 130 to 135 so it'd
> fit on my Atlantis. White gave me a little end cap that I screwed in on the
> non-drive side. It took about 3 minutes!
>
> Then I had to relish my wheels (or else it wasn't centered)!
>
> On Tuesday, July 28, 2020 at 10:12:55 AM UTC-4 RichS wrote:
>
>> Joel: thank you for raising this topic. I have a 126 Campy rear hub that
>> I’ve considered using in 130 spaced dropouts.
>>
>> Garth: thank you for relating your experience and providing the Wheels
>> Mfg. reference.
>>
>> Best,
>> Rich in ATL
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Can you safely convert a 126/130 hub to 135?

Thanks Rich.  I really am fighting doing to a freehub.


On Tue, Jul 28, 2020 at 10:13 AM RichS  wrote:

> Joel: thank you for raising this topic. I have a 126 Campy rear hub that
> I’ve considered using in 130 spaced dropouts.
>
> Garth: thank you for relating your experience and providing the Wheels
> Mfg. reference.
>
> Best,
> Rich in ATL
>
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Re: [RBW] Appaloosa & Atlantis Toe Overlap

Just a suggestion, and fwiw: You might try living and riding with TO and
see if you adapt. I've been riding bikes with TO/TCO for decades with no
problems, even for years commuting on fixed gears with TO and with fenders
making even more TO, this often in busy urban traffic, and never had an
accident; and currently have a dirt road bike that, with 60 mm tires almost
30" tall and wide fenders over those give almost 3" of TO; again, never
fallen due to TO even on sketchy sandy surfaces. Note that I don't do
technical singletrack on any bike with TO/TCO.

There was TO on my Ram, too even before I added fenders.

All this FWIW.

On Tue, Jul 28, 2020 at 6:01 AM ☆ Paul ☆  wrote:

> Hello All.
>
> Does anyone have toe overlap issues on a Joe Appaloosa with fat 50-ish
> tires and fenders?
> How about the first run MIT 650B Atlantis?
>
> I have big Sneakers (13) but am not terribly tall (5’11) and find overlap
> to be an issue on my 700c Homer with 40c tires and fenders. The tips of all
> my sneakers have run marks and I find myself hitting the fenders now
> frequently. So am thinking about switching things around and trying to hunt
> up a different model frame to use as a fast townie.
>
> I do ride on the balls of my feet, not my heels. 🙂
>
> Thank you!
>
>
>
>
>
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> .
>


-- 

---
Patrick Moore
Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum

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Re: [RBW] Re: Can you safely convert a 126/130 hub to 135?

I use 6 speeds.  I may have one 7 speed in my stash but have not been
tempted to use it.  I have old (NOS) Suntour in a drawer.  I also have 1
Sachs also a 6 speed.  13-26 on the 6 speeds.

On Tue, Jul 28, 2020 at 10:37 AM Garth  wrote:

>
> Yes Joel, it's self-centering in that you're adding equal amount of
> space on both sides. If all of this had required a re-dish I'd have never
> done it as that is not something I'd EVER do to an already well built
> wheel.
>
>I'm assuming you are using a similar freewheel in width to the one that
> was there, yes ? A 7-speed ?  I'm mentioning this as nowadays with the
> E-bike craze I see 8,9 and 10 speed FW's all of which I'm assuming would be
> wider than the 7, hence there may not be enough room to clear the dropout
> on an assembly like this. I've never seen those mega FW's in person though
> to measure so I can't say for sure.
>
>
> On Tuesday, July 28, 2020 at 8:56:13 AM UTC-4, Joel Stern wrote:
>>
>>
>> Thanks again Garth, I thought it had to be centered.
>>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Can you safely convert a 126/130 hub to 135?


  You're welcome Rich, Wheels Mfg. is a terrific source for all sorts of 
small parts, they're usually the main provider for bike shops too.  



On Tuesday, July 28, 2020 at 10:12:55 AM UTC-4, RichS wrote:
>
> Joel: thank you for raising this topic. I have a 126 Campy rear hub that 
> I’ve considered using in 130 spaced dropouts. Isn't that cool that they 
> sell Campy 10x26 axles ?  Their axles are heat treated so they ought to be 
> stronger than the originals. I still have a couple sets of Campy hubs that 
> I tended to break, but that was when I weighed more and rode high pressure 
> 25mm tires too. 
>

  Cycle Clinic UK gives a good reference for what axle lengths and 
threading for what .  
https://thecycleclinic.co.uk/collections/hub-axles/products/wheels-manufacturing-qr-hub-axle-front-rear-137-141-146-9mm-10mm-9-5x26-10x26


 

> Garth: thank you for relating your experience and providing the Wheels 
> Mfg. reference. 
>
> Best, 
> Rich in ATL

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Re: [RBW] Re: Can you safely convert a 126/130 hub to 135?

PS: I mean "re-dish" my wheels, not "relish". Relishing my wheels would 
have been awkward in that the pickles and whatnot would have got stuck in 
the drivetrain. 

On Tuesday, July 28, 2020 at 10:35:50 AM UTC-4 ☆ Paul ☆ wrote:

> Joel:
>
> I just converted an old White Industries MI5 hub from 130 to 135 so it'd 
> fit on my Atlantis. White gave me a little end cap that I screwed in on the 
> non-drive side. It took about 3 minutes!
>
> Then I had to relish my wheels (or else it wasn't centered)!
>
> On Tuesday, July 28, 2020 at 10:12:55 AM UTC-4 RichS wrote:
>
>> Joel: thank you for raising this topic. I have a 126 Campy rear hub that 
>> I’ve considered using in 130 spaced dropouts. 
>>
>> Garth: thank you for relating your experience and providing the Wheels 
>> Mfg. reference. 
>>
>> Best, 
>> Rich in ATL
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Can you safely convert a 126/130 hub to 135?

Yes Joel, it's self-centering in that you're adding equal amount of 
space on both sides. If all of this had required a re-dish I'd have never 
done it as that is not something I'd EVER do to an already well built 
wheel. 

   I'm assuming you are using a similar freewheel in width to the one that 
was there, yes ? A 7-speed ?  I'm mentioning this as nowadays with the 
E-bike craze I see 8,9 and 10 speed FW's all of which I'm assuming would be 
wider than the 7, hence there may not be enough room to clear the dropout 
on an assembly like this. I've never seen those mega FW's in person though 
to measure so I can't say for sure.

On Tuesday, July 28, 2020 at 8:56:13 AM UTC-4, Joel Stern wrote:
>
>
> Thanks again Garth, I thought it had to be centered.  
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Can you safely convert a 126/130 hub to 135?

Joel:

I just converted an old White Industries MI5 hub from 130 to 135 so it'd 
fit on my Atlantis. White gave me a little end cap that I screwed in on the 
non-drive side. It took about 3 minutes!

Then I had to relish my wheels (or else it wasn't centered)!

On Tuesday, July 28, 2020 at 10:12:55 AM UTC-4 RichS wrote:

> Joel: thank you for raising this topic. I have a 126 Campy rear hub that 
> I’ve considered using in 130 spaced dropouts.
>
> Garth: thank you for relating your experience and providing the Wheels 
> Mfg. reference. 
>
> Best,
> Rich in ATL

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Re: [RBW] Re: Can you safely convert a 126/130 hub to 135?

2020-07-28 Thread RichS

Joel: thank you for raising this topic. I have a 126 Campy rear hub that I’ve 
considered using in 130 spaced dropouts.

Garth: thank you for relating your experience and providing the Wheels Mfg. 
reference. 

Best,
Rich in ATL

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Re: [RBW] Re: Can you safely convert a 126/130 hub to 135?

Thanks again Garth, I thought it had to be centered.

On Tue, Jul 28, 2020 at 4:42 AM Garth  wrote:

>
> Joel, yes you have a spacer between the lock nut and cone on the left,
> but *also on the right*, under where the FW is placed. To lengthen the
> inside width of the assembly from lock nut to lock nut equidistantly, you
> need the longer axle(in this case solid), an extra 4.5mm of spacers added
> to *both sides, *and the bolt-on nuts. The spacer(s) need not be one
> solid unit, you can mix and match.
>
>
>
>
>
>
> On Monday, July 27, 2020 at 5:07:18 PM UTC-4, Joel Stern wrote:
>>
>> Garth, my Bleriot wheels were built up with a Superbe Pro rear hub, what
>> could that have been, 126mm?  I measured spacers on the left side and it
>> seems to be 5mm,
>>
>
>
>> *so what am I not seeing?*
>>
>>>
>>>
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[RBW] Appaloosa & Atlantis Toe Overlap

Hello All. 

Does anyone have toe overlap issues on a Joe Appaloosa with fat 50-ish 
tires and fenders?
How about the first run MIT 650B Atlantis?

I have big Sneakers (13) but am not terribly tall (5’11) and find overlap 
to be an issue on my 700c Homer with 40c tires and fenders. The tips of all 
my sneakers have run marks and I find myself hitting the fenders now 
frequently. So am thinking about switching things around and trying to hunt 
up a different model frame to use as a fast townie. 

I do ride on the balls of my feet, not my heels. 🙂 

Thank you!





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Re: [RBW] Re: Can you safely convert a 126/130 hub to 135?