[RBW] Upcoming Analog Cycles Rides and Bike Swap Meet

2022-05-28 Thread James / Analog Cycles
Hi all,

We have 3 events coming up that might be of interest to those within 
driving distance (or riding!) of south west Vermont.

The first one is just two weeks away: the *4x4 ride*.  40 miles, dirt roads 
and (4) Class Four roads, plus a bit of mellow singletrack.  Ultra casual 
pace, fireside hangouts afterward, camping if that's your jam.   That's on 
the June 11th.  On June 12th, we're doing our grand opening at our new 
location in downtown Poultney, so there will be day of sales at the shop, 
food, adult beverages, a turntable spinning weird records, that sort of 
thing.  The ride usually draws riders from about a 10 hour radius, so it's 
a cool way to meet and network with like minded riders in the general 
area.  

The event probably most pertinent is the* Swip Swap and Retro Ride *in 
August.  Day starts with a bike swap (+ music, food, demos)  which runs  
into the mid afternoon.  Then riders pick either a ATB route to go ride / 
optionally race on their vintage (25+ year old) bike, or a vintage road 
bike route, which has paved and dirt roads on it.  Nothing that a 28mm 
can't handle.  

Analog will have a swap booth, as will Portland Gear Hub, who has a ton of 
NOS 90's parts, cool old frames and forks, wheels, and more.  We're signing 
other shops up as well, and of course anyone who wants to have a table to 
sell stuff can do so.  The cost is low, the event will be fun, and there's 
optional camping afterwards if that's your thing. Aug. 27th. 

Lastly in October, peak leaf peeper season, we host the annual Gorey 
Hollows ride / scramble and race.  The ride is 30 miles, mellow, lots of 
breaks.  The Scramble is 40 miles with 8k of climbing, so it's hard.  An 
all day ride.  The Race is nuts, you don't even wanna hear about it.   Oct 
8th.  

Here's a link to all 3: https://www.bikereg.com/events/?ns=analog

Hope you can make it one or all 3!  

-james / analog cycles


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Re: [RBW] For Fans of Alt Bars or Alt bar neophytes

2022-04-11 Thread James / Analog Cycles
The thing with bike fit is that there is always room for improvement and 
more knowledge.  For instance, I recently did a fit with a guy who had been 
fit using the Retul method.  He was complaining of knee pain and lower back 
pain.  The Retul fit had put his saddle height 2.5 cm too high, and he was 
reaching to the bottom of the pedal stroke.  Thing of it is: he thought it 
was good, and he was fast and powerful, and that the pain was just a side 
effect, something he had to work through.  I've fit many riders who thought 
they had a proper fit but had still had pain, and often their set up is 
wildly off, to the point of being damaging to their bodies.  I'm not saying 
I have all the answers, or even most of them.  I am just saying there 
should always be room for a second look, and certainly always a place for 
improvement.  

-james

On Monday, April 11, 2022 at 6:31:38 AM UTC-4 larson@gmail.com wrote:

> Very interesting! Thank you for shedding some light on this. I am ‘wide 
> bar curious’, but 44cm Cowchippers, Jones Loop Bars at 710mm and Sycip JJJ 
> bars seem to work well for me.
>
> On Sunday, April 10, 2022 at 5:53:40 PM UTC-5 rmro...@gmail.com wrote:
>
>> Fascinating! But, does any of this translate to swept back bars - Bosco, 
>> Tosco…? I feel very comfortable riding my 650 wide Tosco’s. However, I am 
>> noticing some inexplicable tension/pain between my shoulder blades. Never 
>> while riding mind you.
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>> On Apr 10, 2022, at 4:43 PM, James / Analog Cycles  
>> wrote:
>>
>> 
>>
>> I know lots of folks on the list use Jones bars or similar.  I thought it 
>> might be useful to have a sizing metric for these bars, as none seems to 
>> formally exist.  We've been using this method for a while, and it seems to 
>> be more or less on point every time.  
>> Analog's internal math we use to cut down / choose alt bars for riders:
>> https://analogcycles.com/pages/alt-bar-picker
>>
>> -James / Analog Cycles / Tanglefoot Cycles / Discord Components / Fifth 
>> Season Canvas
>>
>>
>>
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>> .
>>
>>

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Re: [RBW] For Fans of Alt Bars or Alt bar neophytes

2022-04-11 Thread James / Analog Cycles
Richard,  
I can't really speak to much to off the bike pain, as I am not a doctor of 
any sort, but does the pain happen immediately after riding?  Or do you 
wake up the next day in pain after riding, but *not* in pain on the day 
after *not* riding?  If you wake up in pain only after riding, it's 
probably riding position related.  

The formula is only for swept back bars in the realm of 35-45 degrees.  I 
don't have a formula for Albatross shaped bars, but my rule is if you are 
slight with narrow shoulders, pick the narrower of the two options. Bars 
that are too wide can easily cause a pinching sensation between the 
shoulder blades and at the base of the neck.  Make sure the tips of your 
bars are angled down, at least 12 degrees.  If they are flat or pointed up, 
it will be very unergonomic.  

-james
On Sunday, April 10, 2022 at 6:53:40 PM UTC-4 rmro...@gmail.com wrote:

> Fascinating! But, does any of this translate to swept back bars - Bosco, 
> Tosco…? I feel very comfortable riding my 650 wide Tosco’s. However, I am 
> noticing some inexplicable tension/pain between my shoulder blades. Never 
> while riding mind you.
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Apr 10, 2022, at 4:43 PM, James / Analog Cycles  
> wrote:
>
> 
>
> I know lots of folks on the list use Jones bars or similar.  I thought it 
> might be useful to have a sizing metric for these bars, as none seems to 
> formally exist.  We've been using this method for a while, and it seems to 
> be more or less on point every time.  
> Analog's internal math we use to cut down / choose alt bars for riders:
> https://analogcycles.com/pages/alt-bar-picker
>
> -James / Analog Cycles / Tanglefoot Cycles / Discord Components / Fifth 
> Season Canvas
>
>
>
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> .
>
>

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[RBW] For Fans of Alt Bars or Alt bar neophytes

2022-04-10 Thread James / Analog Cycles
I know lots of folks on the list use Jones bars or similar.  I thought it 
might be useful to have a sizing metric for these bars, as none seems to 
formally exist.  We've been using this method for a while, and it seems to 
be more or less on point every time.  
Analog's internal math we use to cut down / choose alt bars for riders:
https://analogcycles.com/pages/alt-bar-picker

-James / Analog Cycles / Tanglefoot Cycles / Discord Components / Fifth 
Season Canvas



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[RBW] Re: Shortening Stem Length

2022-02-17 Thread James / Analog Cycles
Have someone take 3 pictures of you riding from the side.  Hands on the 
Hoods, Ramps and Tops.   If you have natural elbow bend in the ramps, go 
3cm shorter.  If you only have natural bend on the tops, you need shorter 
reach bars and a shorter stem.  Something on the order of an 80mm reach bar 
and 60mm stem would be my guess without looking at your fit.  

Short stems don't make high or mid trail bikes squirrely.  I rode a 30mm 
stem on my Hillborne for a while, no issues.  I could have ridden a 0mm and 
it would have felt fine.

Best, james / Bike Fitter for 15+. years / Analog Cycles / Tanglefoot 
Cycles / Discord Components / Fifth Season Canvas

On Wednesday, February 16, 2022 at 4:00:26 PM UTC-5 John Bokman wrote:

> I originally had a 10 cm Nitto technomic on my Sam. That was definitely 
> too long for me. I swapped to a 7cm stem and have been much happier. For 
> what it's worth, I ride a 58cm Sam, have long legs relative to my torso, 
> and ride with bars below saddle height. Rivs tend to have long top tubes, 
> so what you might use on a different frame may not work well on the Riv.  
> I'd try to measure when sitting on the bike, in your riding position (have 
> someone else to help do the measurement). What does 2cm (1") shorter feel 
> like? 
>
> John Bokman
> Portland OR
>
> On Wednesday, February 16, 2022 at 11:53:38 AM UTC-8 Sean B. wrote:
>
>> For awhile I've been riding my 2018 51cm AHH on a 9cm stem with the Nitto 
>> Noodles. Last summer I decided over the winter I wanted to shorten the 
>> reach a bit. I feel slightly stretched out when riding in the hoods, so I 
>> tend to ride on the ramps/tops. Shortening it 1cm is too little. So should 
>> I go for a 2cm or 3cm change? It's hard to see without actually riding on 
>> them, but my guess is the 2cm change might be the best for me (I realize 
>> this is super subjective). Does anyone else have experience with this 
>> issue?  
>>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Touring Front, Neo-Retro Back?

2021-12-17 Thread James / Analog Cycles
Neo Retros are not as powerful as Touring cantis, because you can not get 
the straddle wire close to 90 degrees in relation to the brake arm.  That 
angle is the key to high mechanical advantage.  See: V brakes.  The idea 
that they're stronger is simply based on lever feel.  They feel firmer, 
which is an indicator of lower mechanical advantage.  If you have ever set 
up Cantis with V brake levers, you have felt this.  It feels great in the 
stand, barely works out of the stand.  

Neo retros exist currently for two reasons:  Classic cross racing bikes, 
where mud clearance is critical.  High profile canti pads sit further from 
the rim, better for mud to pass by.  And because people like the look.  Not 
because it's a better brake.  

>From Sheldon Brown: 
*"Feel" vs. Function*
*With automobile brakes, a nice "hard" pedal feel is a sign that the brakes 
are in good condition. A soft, "spongy" feel at the brake pedal is a sign 
of trouble, perhaps air in the hydraulic lines. This is not the case with 
bicycle brakes. A hard, crisp feel to the brakes on a bicycle may be a sign 
that the brakes don't have much mechanical advantage. You squeeze them 
until the brake shoes hit the rim, then they stop. Brakes with a high 
mechanical advantage will feel "spongy" by comparison, because the large 
amount of force they deliver to the brake shoes will squash the shoes 
against the rim, deforming them temporarily under pressure. You can feel 
this deformation in your fingers. The brakes with the rock-hard feel may 
seem nice on the work stand or the showroom floor, but when it comes to 
making the bike actually stop, the spongy set-up will do the job better, 
with less finger pressure and greater margin for safety in wet conditions.*
*Definitions*
*For purposes of this article, I have defined 1 distance, 2 arms, and 3 
angles as shown in the illustration. Pivot-Cable distance (PC)The shortest 
distance from the center of the pivot to the line of the transverse 
cable.In the case of low-profile 
<https://www.sheldonbrown.com/cantilever-geometry.html#low> brakes, this is 
the shortest distance from the pivot to the imaginary line extending from 
the transverse cable.*

 

 

*Types of Cantilevers*
*Conventional cantilevers fall into three types, defined by their 
cantilever angle:*
   
   - *Wide-profile cantilevers have a cantilever angle 
   <https://www.sheldonbrown.com/cantilever-geometry.html#definition> much 
   greater than 90 degrees. The best example of this type is the old Mafac 
   cantilevers, in which the anchor arm actually sloped downward from the boss 
   <https://www.sheldonbrown.com/gloss_bo-z.html#boss> in some installations. 
   This design is now pretty much obsolete. Wide-profile cantilevers have 
   rather low mechanical advantage, and work well only with levers with a high 
   mechanical advantage.*
   - *Medium-profile cantilevers have a cantilever angle 
   <https://www.sheldonbrown.com/cantilever-geometry.html#ca> of around 90 
   degrees. Most late-1980's cantilevers belong to this family. Medium-profile 
   cantilevers are very forgiving and give excellent all-around performance 
   with a wide range of set-ups.*

He also talks about low profile cantis, but those are super rare these 
days.  Paul used to make one, the best low profile canti I have used, 
called the stop lite.  

When in doubt, consult Sheldon.  

Best, James 
Analog Cycles / Tanglefoot Cycles / Discord Components / Fifth Season Canvas

On Friday, December 17, 2021 at 1:25:00 PM UTC-5 Sam Perez wrote:

> A local mechanic reasoned that the touring canti has the same mechanical 
> advantage as the neo retros that were modeled after vintage canti’s , the 
> implication is they are equal. Something about the neo’s being more 
> sensitive to brake ware.   Can anyone verify  this?
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Dec 17, 2021, at 9:43 AM, iamkeith  wrote:
>
> I have that setup on a bike.   Like others have said, heel clearance was 
> the original consideration.  But the wide profile neo retro has more 
> modulation/subtlety to it, which is good for a front wheel.  The low 
> profile touring is more on/off binary, which is ok for a rear wheel.  But, 
> as others have said, the neo retro is quite strong and I HAVE done an 
> over-the-bars endo on that bike as a result.
>
>
>
> On Friday, December 17, 2021 at 10:17:23 AM UTC-7 lconley wrote:
>
>> I have the same arrangement on my Bombadil. It was for pannier clearance 
>> as much as heel/leg clearance - my Bombadil is a later, longer chainstay 
>> version with less heel/leg clearance issues. I had originally bought the 
>> brakes for the Hubbuhubbuh, but changed it to Paul V-brakes and moved the 
>> Paul Cantis to the Bombadil.
>>
>> Laing
>>
>> On Friday, December 17, 2021 at 11:23:44 AM UTC-5 Matthew 

[RBW] Re: Appaloosa drive train guidance

2021-10-16 Thread James / Analog Cycles
The Appaloosa doesn't climb more slowly than a road bike because of it's 
length, it climbs more slowly because your body can not generate the same 
amount of speed per watt with the riding position.  This could be easily 
demonstrated by riding the same slope 3 times with a power meter at a 
constant wattage.  One time ride it with the bars high, one time lower them 
1 inch, and one more time an inch further still. The speed will go up as 
the wattage stays the same.  Chains don't flex, except side to side, if 
they did they'd snap.  Chainstays flex side to side, but not in 
compression.  As to unusably low gearing, for 7+ years I've been specing 
bikes with 24 granny gears and 40t large cogs, with gear inches between 16 
and 17, depending on tire size.  It's perfectly usable, and helpful on 
loose terrain with a load.  We've experimented with gearing as low as 
14.45, with a 20t ring on a 94 /58 triple and a 36 out back.  Again, 
perfectly useful.  Walking up a steep scree covered slope with a load is 
much harder than pedaling, even if you are moving slower than a walker.  As 
to the OP's idea, I would recommend a wolf tooth road link, a longer chain, 
and an 11-40 9 speed cassette, which will not seriously mess with the 
derailleurs capacity.  Shifting is fine in the smaller cogs, you simply 
have to dial the b screw out a bit.  I've set up hundreds of bikes like 
this, with many repeat customers asking for the same thing, again.  Works 
fine.  

-James / Analog Cycles 


On Saturday, October 16, 2021 at 12:07:01 AM UTC-4 Drw wrote:

> I know of a number of people who don't mind friction shifting 10 or 11 
> speed. For me, i got tons of ghost shifting when i tried 10 speed with bar 
> ends. Especially in the little cogs, the chain really wanted to jump around 
> and the tweaking between gears was so minor that i went back to 9 speed. 
> Wide range 9 speeds are readily available these days and unless it's a 1x 
> system, i don't really see much need for 10+.  I feel like im a pretty weak 
> rider on prolonged inclines as well, so i definitely understand the desire 
> to find a gear that will work on hills. 
> FWIW i have a 1x bike with a 38t chainring and an 11-40 (i think) 
> cassette, and another bike thats a 2x with a low of 24-42 and that is so 
> low, it is a little hard to keep the bike balanced for me, or exhaust 
> myself by spinning so fast. 
> On Friday, October 15, 2021 at 8:55:29 PM UTC-7 Kushan wrote:
>
>> All - This has been a highly educational discussion.
>>
>> My intention is to have a cope out gear for those long rides when I am 
>> already on mile 60-70 and then hit a an incline of 8%+. With my current 
>> 11-36 set up, I do find myself "maxed up" quite often on such a ride and 
>> wishing for an extra gear that can take me over the next edge.
>>
>> Here is what I am thinking about the options discussed here:
>> - Mountain tamer and changing the front chainring: This is definitely an 
>> out-of-the-box option. However, having tried to fiddle with front derailers 
>> on other bikes, I too share the hatred for them (but continue to use them 
>> out of the need for a wide gear range). My current drive train is set up by 
>> RBW, works perfectly, and I am just afraid to mess with it.
>>
>> - Wide range cassette: In addition to what brizbarn mentioned above, I 
>> got another data point on this front. A friend just recently got an 11-40 
>> 11-speed cassette with 8-speed Nexave derailer and Silver thumbies in 
>> friction mode. He is using this with 34-24 in front. I haven't tried this 
>> myself but he swears that it works like a dream. Plus RBW did this whole 
>> set up for him and I am inclined to believe that they wouldn't do it if it 
>> wasn't working well. So I am most likely going to try out this option of 
>> using a 11-40 or 11-42 cassette (9 or 10 speed) with my existing derailer. 
>> I am going to try it out without an extender since it seems to work for 
>> others. 
>>
>> - Hike-a-bike: You guys make a valid point on this one. Logistically, 
>> this option is no slower than what I am proposing with a wide-range 
>> cassette. The biggest hurdle though is the mental pain of admitting that 
>> certain hills at certain times are beyond your abilities. There is also 
>> that "poor you" look you get from others as they pass you :) . But 
>> nonetheless, this is a fine option indeed and I might just stick to it in 
>> the short run until my current components wear out and need changing. 
>> On Friday, October 15, 2021 at 8:00:30 PM UTC-7 brizbarn wrote:
>>
>>> Kushan, I think a lot of these things people are mentioning are 
>>> unnecessary.  Get the 10 speed wider-range cassette, put it on and ride it. 

[RBW] Re: Analog's Secret Summer Sale

2021-07-30 Thread James / Analog Cycles
Dorothy, they are derailleur specific.  Garbaruk has good directions on 
their site.  We have a few left for SRAM 11 speed 1x rear mechs, and a 
number for GRX mechs, which are not on the sale list.  They let you easily 
shift to a 50t (or 51t) cog.

-james

On Friday, July 30, 2021 at 9:18:13 AM UTC-4 Dorothy C wrote:

> Joe, how do those Garbaruk pieces work? Do you just install them on a 
> Shimano rear derailleur body?
>
> On Wednesday, July 28, 2021 at 9:41:52 PM UTC-7 Joe Bernard wrote:
>
>> I hit em up for a Garbaruk cage and pulleys, and some chainring bolts.  
>> That's bling, baby 
>>
>> On Sunday, July 25, 2021 at 12:18:33 PM UTC-7 James / Analog Cycles wrote:
>>
>>> If you are into stuff from Honjo, Unior, Park, Wera, Velo Orange, Riv, 
>>> Surly, All City, Bassi, Brooks, Topo Designs, Velocity, etc, this 
>>> <https://analogcycles.com/secret-summer-sale-2021/> is the list of sale 
>>> parts for you.
>>>
>>> Details in the link.
>>>
>>> -James / Analog Cycles
>>>
>>>
>>>

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[RBW] Analog's Secret Summer Sale

2021-07-25 Thread James / Analog Cycles
If you are into stuff from Honjo, Unior, Park, Wera, Velo Orange, Riv, 
Surly, All City, Bassi, Brooks, Topo Designs, Velocity, etc, this 
<https://analogcycles.com/secret-summer-sale-2021/> is the list of sale 
parts for you.

Details in the link.

-James / Analog Cycles


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[RBW] Re: 2021 Appaloosa thread

2021-06-16 Thread James / Analog Cycles
Here at Analog we have a few frames in stock:  

Rivendell Appaloosa 46cm
Bliver (1)

54 Bliver (2)

54cm  Dark Orange (1)

57 cm Bliver (1)

57cm Dark Orange (1)

60cm Dark Orange (1)

They're 1650 + at least 500 in parts or as a complete build.  

Best, james / Analog Cycles
On Friday, June 4, 2021 at 1:01:43 PM UTC-4 Jason Fuller wrote:

> Now that the new Joe Appa's are hitting shelves (everywhere but at 
> Rivendell, as is becoming the norm!) I reckon it's time for a central place 
> to chat about them, a la the Platy thread! 
>
> Crust has their inventory live for purchase at $1650:  
> https://crustbikes.com/collections/frames/products/rivendell-joe-appaloosa
>
> I will be abstaining because there is no line of reason that could 
> possibly justify my buying one, but I look forward to living vicariously 
> through others! 
>
> [image: DSC07418-2_1800x1800.jpg]
>

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[RBW] FS: Assortment of NOS goodies (Skewers, derailleurs, headsets)

2021-05-05 Thread James / Analog Cycles


Certain parts are exceedingly hard to source right now.  Good quick 
releases are pretty much non-existent.  Good being internal cam, steel 
axle, nice design.  Front derailleurs useful for touring wide range doubles 
and triples is another.  9 or 10 speed rear derailleurs with a silver 
finish, these are basically vapor ware.   1” threaded headsets with 
replaceable bearings (IE not that Chris King no-replacement bearings 
nonsense) is of course another.  Are these prices high?  No, they are not.  
They’re reflective of the fact that this stuff is NOS, has been in a 
warehouse for years, and every year someone had to pay inventory tax on 
it.  If anything, the prices are low.  There’s no combo deals, or free 
shipping, the price is the listed price + whatever shipping costs to get to 
you.  Probably 9 bucks if you are in the states.  

I’ve got a pretty good stash of the following New Old Stock stuff, some in 
original boxes, some not, like the XT skewers: 

Early 90’s XT skewers, silver with black rubber on the QR lever, and a 
black o ring on the acorn nut, which is steel.  The nice finish.  Probably 
the beefiest QR pair ever made by Shimano.  This is way before everything 
Shimano made was black or grey.  $85 a pair.  

Early-Mid 90’s XTR Skewers.  Anodized silver, elegant as all get out.  Best 
XTR skewer ever made.  This was before everything went all grey.  1st or 
2nd gen.  Elegant enough for the nicest road bike, just cut off 5mm from 
the end of the rear skewer.  $100 a pair.

Shimano 6500 Ultegra headsets:  Silver, classic.  What Riv’s used to come 
standard with.  1” threaded, 26.4 crown race.  $100

Campagnolo Athena headsets: Silver, one of the nicest looking Campy 
headsets in my opinion.  $140

American Classic Skewers:  Black with silver lever.  Ultra light for the 
time, about as light as a skewer can get and still be internal cam.  
Aluminum acorn nut and cam nut.  That makes them fine for any rim brake set 
up, but less than ideal for discs, as they can’t bite into the drop outs.  
$45 a pair.  

Campagnolo Centaur braze on front derailleurs:  Will index for 9 or 10 
speeds, friction for 7-11 speeds.  Ideal for a wide range double, like a 
46/26 or a 50/30.  In some circumstances it will work for a triple.   $90

XTR M952/953 front derailleurs:  28.6 clamp, bottom pull.  Classic, 
gorgeous XTR triple front mech for rings up to 46t.  One of the best triple 
derailleurs ever made.  8 speed index, 7-11 speed friction.  $65

Shimano CX70 braze on front derailleurs:  Best front derailleurs shimano 
made in the 2000’s.  Stiff, nice looking, Ultegra level.  Triple or Double, 
up to a 48t big ring.  I’ve had these shift through a 46/20 range before.  
Worked great, even without a middle ring.  $100

Campagnolo Touring Triple Rear Derailleurs, mid 2000s.  39t capacity.  
Beautiful polished silver.  You can do a 28t rear cassette with no mods, or 
a 34 with a wolf tooth road link.  $210

Holler if you want any of this stuff!  Transactions thru paypal only.  
-James james(at)analogcycles(dot)com



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Re: [RBW] WTB: Nitto S84 Lugged Seatpost

2021-04-24 Thread James / Analog Cycles
I stock these.  Just email me.  James at analogcycles dot com

On Saturday, April 24, 2021 at 8:03:00 AM UTC-4 Tirebiter ATX wrote:

> Hello,
> I am also want to buy this seat-post.  Size 27.2mm for a Homer.
> Thanks
> Lyman in Austin
>
> On Thu, Apr 22, 2021 at 3:12 PM Robert Dowtin  wrote:
>
>> I got what I needed! Thanks everyone for the speedy replies and stellar 
>> results.
>>
>> On Thursday, April 22, 2021 at 11:48:59 AM UTC-5 jmanw...@gmail.com 
>> wrote:
>>
>>> What post size? 
>>>
>>> On Sat, Apr 17, 2021 at 2:12 PM Robert Dowtin  
>>> wrote:
>>>
 I totally understand that this is a long shot and I apologize for the 
 cross posting with Riv and the subsequent forcing of your reading this 
 twice.

 I desire a Nitto S84 Lugged Seatpost. Does anyone have one that they 
 might be graciously willing to come up off of? I promise to put it on a 
 beautiful bike!

 ~Rob in NW Ar

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[RBW] How to Video for First Time Cloth Bar wrappers

2021-02-16 Thread James / Analog Cycles
We put together a cloth bar wrapping primer for first timers.  It's a bit 
different than the Riv method, and involves Fizik Gel.  I'd say it's 
easier, but more involved, than most methods, just cause we use glue.  New 
to the shop gal Tikko put the vid together, Candice does the wrapping.  


https://youtu.be/vFwLiWboeBk

-James / Analog Cycles

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Re: [RBW] The joy of winter riding, and how do you keep your toes warm?

2021-02-01 Thread James / Analog Cycles
Keen winter boots with 400 grams of insulation, wool thigh high socks are 
good for down to say 20.  After that, you need muck boots, wool felt 
insoles, thick tall wool socks.  At zero or below add toe warmers.  
https://www.muckbootcompany.com/collections/women/products/womens-arctic-sport-ii-mid-navy

-James / Vermont / riding around in 0 degree temps 
On Monday, February 1, 2021 at 8:59:44 AM UTC-5 Robert Blunt wrote:

> Roberta,
> Hoka makes a pair of gore tex lined winter trainers that are black. I use 
> those with smartwool socks and that covers it for anything in the 30s and 
> above.
> -Robert Blunt
> Pennington, NJ
>
> On Mon, Feb 1, 2021, 1:27 AM Roberta  wrote:
>
>> Inspired by the wonderful cold weather rides and pics recently (and 
>> others, too, on Instagram), I decided I should not stop riding just because 
>> the temperature is below 60*.  Yes, you read that right.  Pre-Riv, when 
>> the weather got below 60*, I’d stop riding because it was “too cold.”
>>
>> Well, I’ve learned a lot here in the last 3 ½ years.  Last year, I rode 
>> when it was in the 40’s.  Yesterday and today, I was out in 32* and 27* 
>> temperatures, respectively, and it was glorious!  I finally learned how 
>> to dress properly for cold weather riding.  There were less crowds on 
>> the trail and I was more comfortable than when it’s in the 90’s.
>>
>> I highly recommend it!
>> Also, how do you keep your toes warm?  It was the only cold part of my 
>> body.  I was wearing leather sneakers and cotton socks (only because I 
>> couldn't find my wool ones).  Winter temps usually don't often go below 30*.
>>
>> Roberta
>>
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>> 
>> .
>>
>

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Re: [RBW] Leah’s Rivendell Raspberry Platypus

2020-12-04 Thread James / Analog Cycles
Sure Paul!  All I know is that almost all of my CD's from the 1990's are 
shot, but I am still listening the Bach on an Vox LP from the 1950s that 
sounds great.  

Leah's bike represents a Riv that looks fun to ride, and I think that's 
great.  A good looking tool, like a hand plane with scroll work on the 
handles, or a guitar with nice inlays.  

-james
On Friday, December 4, 2020 at 3:24:31 PM UTC-5 Paul Clifton wrote:

> I finally took a minute to look at these photos on a big screen, and heck 
> yes, Leah, that bike is so nice! I agree with Joe, the 700c wheels somehow 
> give it something extra, elegance, I don't know, aesthetic perfection. It's 
> beautiful. And the color makes me really miss my sparkly burgandy Trek 720. 
> I'm glad you finally got your red Riv mixte!
>
> Bravo, James! Can I start a thread to disagree with you about CDs and 
> agree with you about color?
>
> Paul in AR
> On Friday, December 4, 2020 at 1:24:41 PM UTC-6 James / Analog Cycles 
> wrote:
>
>> I'm late to the party with this, but here's something I wrote about pink, 
>> rose, and such, in 2012.  It's about bikes, sorta.  It's about embracing 
>> color, which is to borrow an over used phrase, is a spice of life.  Classic 
>> bikes look nice, for sure, but there's a reason that folks collect 90's mtn 
>> bikes, and a reason modernist furniture has never gone away, a reason why 
>> people don't just wear white T shirts or natural undyed jeans.  Sure, they 
>> won't fade... but no one except painters in early 90's sitcoms wear off 
>> white jeans.  Everything that exists is by nature temporary, from haircuts 
>> to trees to paintings to anodized parts.  How many here have a vast 
>> collection of CDs, or had the same of tapes?  A temporary medium.  Shoulda 
>> stuck with records.  Empires fade, cities crumble.  Nothing lasts forever, 
>> even time itself.  
>>
>> Ok, if that hasn't got ya too riled up, read on:
>>
>> *On PinkPink, rose, rosa, pienk, vaaleanpunainen, pinc.   America’s pink 
>> is for girls and golden age non-existent princesses, the pink flush and 
>> blush at your first school dance, pink for breast cancer awareness, pink as 
>> a marketing ploy by clothing companies, written across the seat of sweat 
>> pants in frosted coral letterman jacket font, pink as the opposite of 
>> manliness, pinko commies are the anti-Americans, the haters of freedom, 
>> pink walls in a jail cell to calm the nerves of those wrongfully 
>> imprisoned, dull pink cotton socks washed with a new red sweater, Elvis’s 
>> pink Caddy, the symbol of all that is right and wrong with American 
>> culture, memorialized in Springsteen’s song ‘Pink Cadillac’.  Bruce’s 
>> double entendre was lost on FM radio culture and Mary Kay, who had her car 
>> painted ‘Mountain Laurel Blush’ to match a color of makeup she had in her 
>> purse.  Top Mary Kay sales personnel still channel the Boss and the King to 
>> this day, driving a cultural burden with the aplomb of a color blind man 
>> sporting red and green socks.French Rosé is for pink macaroons, which, 
>> let’s face it, are just crispy whoopie pies with a beret, French rosé clay 
>> for spa facials and skin restoration, the mildest of all the clays, 
>> debutante pink, also know as La France pink, is a moderate rosé that “is 
>> yellower and darker than arbutus pink and bluer and deeper than hydrangea 
>> pink.”  But what of course, is hydrangea pink?  And the most prog  of 
>> Pinks, that of Floyd, the pink in Pink Floyd coming from Pink Anderson, who 
>> in turn hailed from South Carolina, where the roads are lined with Eastern 
>> Rosebud trees, rubicund pedals dancing in the flames of the southern sun.  
>> Pink’s guitar pacing echoing the sanguine musical sunset that wraps your 
>> ears in Pink Floyd’s San Tropez.  Let us not forget the Pink Panther, a 
>> series of slapstick detective movies featuring (and only watchable because 
>> of his presence) Peter Sellers, in a roll he came to despise so completely 
>> that his last movies as Inspector Clouseau are memorable more for his 
>> unrestrained loathing than any semblance of plot line.  In the psychedelic 
>> opening of the series, the seemingly flawless diamond has a tiny 
>> imperfection at its core: a tiny leaping pink panther.This was 1964, so the 
>> tiny panther needed be animated and have a top hat and a Henry Mancini song 
>> to dance to.  Spanish rosado, Italian rosato, regional names for a style of 
>> wine popularized in the late 70’s, a time of growing taste for wine 
>> redolent of Hi-C.  Fittingly the wine is often created through Saignée, 
>> French for ‘bleeding’, where the pink 

Re: [RBW] Leah’s Rivendell Raspberry Platypus

2020-12-04 Thread James / Analog Cycles
I'm late to the party with this, but here's something I wrote about pink, 
rose, and such, in 2012.  It's about bikes, sorta.  It's about embracing 
color, which is to borrow an over used phrase, is a spice of life.  Classic 
bikes look nice, for sure, but there's a reason that folks collect 90's mtn 
bikes, and a reason modernist furniture has never gone away, a reason why 
people don't just wear white T shirts or natural undyed jeans.  Sure, they 
won't fade... but no one except painters in early 90's sitcoms wear off 
white jeans.  Everything that exists is by nature temporary, from haircuts 
to trees to paintings to anodized parts.  How many here have a vast 
collection of CDs, or had the same of tapes?  A temporary medium.  Shoulda 
stuck with records.  Empires fade, cities crumble.  Nothing lasts forever, 
even time itself.  

Ok, if that hasn't got ya too riled up, read on:

*On PinkPink, rose, rosa, pienk, vaaleanpunainen, pinc.   America’s pink is 
for girls and golden age non-existent princesses, the pink flush and blush 
at your first school dance, pink for breast cancer awareness, pink as a 
marketing ploy by clothing companies, written across the seat of sweat 
pants in frosted coral letterman jacket font, pink as the opposite of 
manliness, pinko commies are the anti-Americans, the haters of freedom, 
pink walls in a jail cell to calm the nerves of those wrongfully 
imprisoned, dull pink cotton socks washed with a new red sweater, Elvis’s 
pink Caddy, the symbol of all that is right and wrong with American 
culture, memorialized in Springsteen’s song ‘Pink Cadillac’.  Bruce’s 
double entendre was lost on FM radio culture and Mary Kay, who had her car 
painted ‘Mountain Laurel Blush’ to match a color of makeup she had in her 
purse.  Top Mary Kay sales personnel still channel the Boss and the King to 
this day, driving a cultural burden with the aplomb of a color blind man 
sporting red and green socks.French Rosé is for pink macaroons, which, 
let’s face it, are just crispy whoopie pies with a beret, French rosé clay 
for spa facials and skin restoration, the mildest of all the clays, 
debutante pink, also know as La France pink, is a moderate rosé that “is 
yellower and darker than arbutus pink and bluer and deeper than hydrangea 
pink.”  But what of course, is hydrangea pink?  And the most prog  of 
Pinks, that of Floyd, the pink in Pink Floyd coming from Pink Anderson, who 
in turn hailed from South Carolina, where the roads are lined with Eastern 
Rosebud trees, rubicund pedals dancing in the flames of the southern sun.  
Pink’s guitar pacing echoing the sanguine musical sunset that wraps your 
ears in Pink Floyd’s San Tropez.  Let us not forget the Pink Panther, a 
series of slapstick detective movies featuring (and only watchable because 
of his presence) Peter Sellers, in a roll he came to despise so completely 
that his last movies as Inspector Clouseau are memorable more for his 
unrestrained loathing than any semblance of plot line.  In the psychedelic 
opening of the series, the seemingly flawless diamond has a tiny 
imperfection at its core: a tiny leaping pink panther.This was 1964, so the 
tiny panther needed be animated and have a top hat and a Henry Mancini song 
to dance to.  Spanish rosado, Italian rosato, regional names for a style of 
wine popularized in the late 70’s, a time of growing taste for wine 
redolent of Hi-C.  Fittingly the wine is often created through Saignée, 
French for ‘bleeding’, where the pink juice is left over from the creation 
of real red wine.  The name ‘Blush’ was coined, and became synonymous with 
cut rate California table wine.Rosa is the pink of Italians.  Parma’s 
Baptistery, an strangely proportioned octagonal Medieval folly, constructed 
in the sunset of Romanesque architecture, is clad in Verona pink marble and 
houses a beautiful series of fraudulent frescoes, which modern science has 
been forced to restore using state of the art technology.  Historians armed 
with syringes and spatulas add to the culture of God, graft and craft that 
created the building.  Parma Ham, aka prosciutto crudo, thin sliced 
translucent meat, quinacridone pink, is cured on huge curved hooks.  Parma 
hosted the Giro d’Italia in 2011.  The regions other famous food 
caustically commemorated by BikesnobNYC: “…one rider became three, and 
three became eight, and soon a breakaway was thrumming along like an 
eight-cylinder engine—until it sort of threw a rod in the form of a Katusha 
rider, who touched wheels with the rider in front of him, careened out of 
the break, and did his best Parmesan cheese imitation on the abrasive road 
surface.”  The raw salmon color of the La Galletia Della Sport newspaper 
gives the pink hue to the winner’s jersey of the Giro.  The winner has worn 
the pink Maglia Rosa since 1931, a tradition as venerated as the yellow 
jersey of the Tour de France.The 1946 bid for the Maglia Rosa: interrupted 
by pinko communists throwing sticks and 

[RBW] Re: WTB 45 Clem L: Leah’s Friend

2020-11-30 Thread James / Analog Cycles
We have a new, just built blue one.  -James / Analog

On Monday, November 30, 2020 at 8:06:52 AM UTC-5 Bicycle Belle Ding Ding! 
wrote:

> My bikes have generated interest from friends from my real life. These are 
> not bikey people, they are regular folks who see me riding in the community 
> and think, “That looks fun; I’d like a bike like that.” I both love and 
> dread this, because I know the price tag will shock people and because 
> there will be no test riding the bike, AND if they’re stayed with me that 
> far, there will likely be a lengthy wait for a bike.
>
> My friend Anna asked me about my Clem last night, and decided that would 
> be the bike she’d like. She asked me, “Where is Rivendell’s Las Vegas 
> storefront?” 
>
> Oh boy. 
>
> Rivendell won’t have Clems for months, and this is prime riding weather 
> here in Vegas. I told her I would look for one online. 
>
> Does anyone have a 45 Clem L they would like to sell? Let me know and I 
> will put you in touch with Anna.
>
> Thanks!
> Leah
>

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Re: [RBW] Meet Analog: Shop tour and interviews for an off the grid Riv Dealer

2020-11-28 Thread James / Analog Cycles
The tape is an unreleased (maybe one day!) wool bar tape we are working on.
The bike is a Tanglefoot Bull Thistle, which is a roadfat bike made for 26 
x 4 tires on 65mm wide rims, or 27.5 x 3.5 or 29 x 3 tires.  Quill stem, 
mostly lugged, made to order by Alex Meade in Mass, painted by Hot Tubes.  
No custom geo, but it does have custom paint included.   Tough enough for 
loaded touring, but mainly geared toward overnights or long rides where the 
road is bad, or really muddy, or loose.  83mm wide BB so the Q factor is 
not nearly as bad as a standard fat bike.  Go wide and go low!  You could 
run these tires around 7 psi when not in the snow, 5 or less in the snow.

-James


On Saturday, November 28, 2020 at 2:10:44 PM UTC-5 Patrick Moore wrote:

> Interesting video.
>
> What bar tape is this? https://youtu.be/MaruFJYwJ8Y?t=15
>
> And, after the nice Atlantis, what make and model is the drop-barred, 
> down-tube-shiftered (!) fat bike?
>
> After riding 70 mm wide, 30 1/2" tall WTB Rangers, the 61 mm, 29.3/5" tall 
> Big Ones seem skinny and hard. I'd like to try 80 mm.
>
> On Sat, Nov 28, 2020 at 9:21 AM James / Analog Cycles  
> wrote:
>
>> We finally put a video together that gives some flavor of the shop, what 
>> we do, what it's like to walk into Analog Cycles.  
>>
>> Here's the final cut, a good way to kill 3 minutes.  You'll spot lots of 
>> Riv bits in the vid, as well as Tanglefoot stuff, Fifth Season stuff, and 
>> loads of steel frames.  
>>
>> https://youtu.be/MaruFJYwJ8Y
>>
>> Enjoy!
>>
>> james / Analog Cycles / Tanglefoot Cycles / Fifth Season Canvas / Discord 
>> Components
>>
>> -- 
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>> "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
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>>  
>> <https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/90fd197f-7dfc-438b-94b6-62b76c357b79n%40googlegroups.com?utm_medium=email_source=footer>
>> .
>>
>
>
> -- 
>
> ---
> Patrick Moore
> Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Meet Analog: Shop tour and interviews for an off the grid Riv Dealer

2020-11-28 Thread James / Analog Cycles
You're welcome, David.

-James

On Saturday, November 28, 2020 at 1:44:51 PM UTC-5 David Person wrote:

> Thanks for posting this, James.
>
> On Saturday, November 28, 2020 at 8:21:47 AM UTC-8 James / Analog Cycles 
> wrote:
>
>> We finally put a video together that gives some flavor of the shop, what 
>> we do, what it's like to walk into Analog Cycles.  
>>
>> Here's the final cut, a good way to kill 3 minutes.  You'll spot lots of 
>> Riv bits in the vid, as well as Tanglefoot stuff, Fifth Season stuff, and 
>> loads of steel frames.  
>>
>> https://youtu.be/MaruFJYwJ8Y
>>
>> Enjoy!
>>
>> james / Analog Cycles / Tanglefoot Cycles / Fifth Season Canvas / Discord 
>> Components
>>
>

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Re: [RBW] Leah’s Rivendell Raspberry Platypus

2020-11-28 Thread James / Analog Cycles
That light is a Schmidt fender tail light.  They're designed to be mounted 
higher than normal.  Very robust, well sealed light.  Dynamo powered.
-james / analog cycles

On Saturday, November 28, 2020 at 3:24:50 PM UTC-5 Patrick Moore wrote:

> *And,* one more question: What top-of-rear-fender light is that? Is it a 
> dynamo light or battery? I might be interested in one that mounts 
> top-center of fender; I dislike rear-of-fender lights because I'm always 
> backing them into walls.
>
> On Sat, Nov 28, 2020 at 1:22 PM Patrick Moore  wrote:
>
>> Oh, and after you've put on a few more miles, tell us in endless, 
>> excruciating detail (I'm serious) how the ride of the Platypus differs from 
>> that of the Clementine and of the Betty (I forget what the Betty Foy is; 
>> mixte?)
>>
>> On Sat, Nov 28, 2020 at 1:20 PM Patrick Moore  wrote:
>>
>>> It's shaping up nicely. Please post some high-resolution photos when 
>>> it's all done (I'm sure you will!) You'll get it sorted, don't worry. I'm 
>>> sorry you couldn't get the rose rims; I think that would have set off the 
>>> frame very nicely.
>>>
>>> FWIW, I've often spliced my lighting wires simply by twisting ends and 
>>> covering with heat-shrink tubing; it looks fine. I've not yet learned how 
>>> to solder wire. But if you can get someone to solder the ends, I daresay 
>>> this will look even better.
>>>
>>> And congratulations on the mileage!
>>>
>>
>>
>> -- 
>>
>> ---
>> Patrick Moore
>> Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum
>>
>>
>
> -- 
>
> ---
> Patrick Moore
> Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum
>
>

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[RBW] Meet Analog: Shop tour and interviews for an off the grid Riv Dealer

2020-11-28 Thread James / Analog Cycles
We finally put a video together that gives some flavor of the shop, what we 
do, what it's like to walk into Analog Cycles.  

Here's the final cut, a good way to kill 3 minutes.  You'll spot lots of 
Riv bits in the vid, as well as Tanglefoot stuff, Fifth Season stuff, and 
loads of steel frames.  

https://youtu.be/MaruFJYwJ8Y

Enjoy!

james / Analog Cycles / Tanglefoot Cycles / Fifth Season Canvas / Discord 
Components

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Re: [RBW] Re: Any particular grease cleaner you would recommend!

2020-10-08 Thread James / Analog Cycles
Hi Patrick,

Between Rock n Roll and Prolink, I'd recommend Prolink.  No PTFE.  Read up 
on it if you have never done so.  Rock N Roll Gold is just teflon solids 
suspended in solvent, more or less.

I'd have to look at the sludge that falls off the chain.  The crud you are 
trying to get rid of isn't dirt per se, it's the metal filing the chain 
produces in the course of use.  Those, when trapped in the rollers, are a 
bigger source of chain wear than anything else I can think of.  If there is 
no metal in the sludge, it's just a superficial cleaning.  

Best, james

On Wednesday, October 7, 2020 at 12:47:41 PM UTC-4 Patrick Moore wrote:

> Thanks, James. I've recently applied "Rock 'n' Roll Gold" which I guess is 
> a "dry" lube to a chain and wiped and wiped; was surprised to see how dry 
> the outside of the chain felt the next morning. I'll have to test this 
> again with a little more attention to see if it holds the squeaks at bay 
> for 400 miles (road bike) and to see if the outside of the chain remains 
> clean. If it works, I may switch to this or to Pro Link again.
>
> The wax method does clean the chain, btw; first, there's very little dirt 
> that accumulates on the chain, and second, what does falls off in the 
> melted wax and forms a sludge on the bottom of the crockpot.
>
> But easy as waxing is, you are right, applying Pro Link, etc to the chain 
> while it is on the bike, and wiping half a dozen times is easier yet.
>
> Aside: Long ago -- 2010? -- I used White Lightning, supposed to be dry and 
> clean. It didn't attract sand, but it built up thick coils of grunge on the 
> cogs that you had to scrape off. I'm still finishing up the last 8 oz 
> bottle, probably a good 8-10 years old, by putting a bit on my pedals' clip 
> mechanism every so often; not sure it does much good ...
>
> On Wed, Oct 7, 2020 at 8:10 AM James / Analog Cycles  
> wrote:
>
>> Hi Patrick,
>>
>> By your own writing, you have the same maintenance interval with prolink 
>> as you do with wax.  400 miles on road, 200 off.  I'd say the difference is 
>> ease of use with prolink.  It's faster, and all you need is a rag and 
>> prolink.  It's less expensive.  It cleans the chain, which wax does not.  
>> It has no PTFE, which is just about the worst thing you can use on your 
>> bike if you are fond of the outdoors.  Ski resorts are ahead of the game on 
>> this, banning PTFE from ski waxes on their slopes.  
>>
>> So, really, I'd recommend the same thing we use up here in the wet.  
>> Prolink and a rag.  I wouldn't apply the prolink sparingly, it only works 
>> as a cleaner if you get it dripping wet.  Let it sit for a just a few 
>> minutes, then wipe 95% of it off.  Done.  10 minutes, tops, with the post 
>> lube rim cleaning.
>>
>> Obviously, everyone is gunna have their own best method.  I want mine to 
>> be fast, effective, affordable and relatively eco friendly.  BTW, if anyone 
>> has used a GOOD actual eco lube, I'm all ears.  I've tried many, been 
>> impressed by none.  Requirements: has to be available stateside.  Not very 
>> eco friendly to fly lube over from England.
>>
>> -James
>>
>> On Tuesday, October 6, 2020 at 8:48:16 PM UTC-4 Patrick Moore wrote:
>>
>>> Sheesh: More clearly and accurately: the main criteria are: chain and 
>>> cog longevity; shifting performance; time between lubes; ease of lubing and 
>>> cleaning; and distant fourth, a clean chain exterior. 
>>>
>>> On Tue, Oct 6, 2020 at 6:44 PM Patrick Moore  wrote:
>>>
>>>> ... But the main criterion is chain and cog and ring longevity. 
>>>> Actually, my rings last forever, so let's say cog and chain longevity; and 
>>>> also shifting performance, tho' I presently have onlhy 1 derailleur bike.
>>>>
>>>> Thoughts and suggestions?
>>>>
>>>> Thanks.
>>>>
>>>
>>> -- 
>>>
>>> ---
>>> Patrick Moore
>>> Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum
>>>
>>> -- 
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Re: [RBW] Re: Any particular grease cleaner you would recommend!

2020-10-08 Thread James / Analog Cycles
Hi Joel, 

I'd say for everyone who values their time, and wants a functional 
drivetrain, a bottle of prolink is the current best bet on the market. If 
you have wet conditions, use prolink to clean, and finish line wet lube to 
lube.  

-James

On Wednesday, October 7, 2020 at 10:43:46 AM UTC-4 Joel S wrote:

> I ride on dry Conditions only and was steered to Fastline dry lube.  I 
> also read about Rock and Roll gold.  For my riding are you saying Prolink, 
> and no degreaser? 
>
> Thanks
> On Wed, Oct 7, 2020 at 10:10 AM James / Analog Cycles  
> wrote:
>
>> Hi Patrick,
>>
>> By your own writing, you have the same maintenance interval with prolink 
>> as you do with wax.  400 miles on road, 200 off.  I'd say the difference is 
>> ease of use with prolink.  It's faster, and all you need is a rag and 
>> prolink.  It's less expensive.  It cleans the chain, which wax does not.  
>> It has no PTFE, which is just about the worst thing you can use on your 
>> bike if you are fond of the outdoors.  Ski resorts are ahead of the game on 
>> this, banning PTFE from ski waxes on their slopes.  
>>
>> So, really, I'd recommend the same thing we use up here in the wet.  
>> Prolink and a rag.  I wouldn't apply the prolink sparingly, it only works 
>> as a cleaner if you get it dripping wet.  Let it sit for a just a few 
>> minutes, then wipe 95% of it off.  Done.  10 minutes, tops, with the post 
>> lube rim cleaning.
>>
>> Obviously, everyone is gunna have their own best method.  I want mine to 
>> be fast, effective, affordable and relatively eco friendly.  BTW, if anyone 
>> has used a GOOD actual eco lube, I'm all ears.  I've tried many, been 
>> impressed by none.  Requirements: has to be available stateside.  Not very 
>> eco friendly to fly lube over from England.
>>
>> -James
>>
>> On Tuesday, October 6, 2020 at 8:48:16 PM UTC-4 Patrick Moore wrote:
>>
>>> Sheesh: More clearly and accurately: the main criteria are: chain and 
>>> cog longevity; shifting performance; time between lubes; ease of lubing and 
>>> cleaning; and distant fourth, a clean chain exterior. 
>>>
>>> On Tue, Oct 6, 2020 at 6:44 PM Patrick Moore  wrote:
>>>
>>>> ... But the main criterion is chain and cog and ring longevity. 
>>>> Actually, my rings last forever, so let's say cog and chain longevity; and 
>>>> also shifting performance, tho' I presently have onlhy 1 derailleur bike.
>>>>
>>>> Thoughts and suggestions?
>>>>
>>>> Thanks.
>>>>
>>>
>>> -- 
>>>
>>> ---
>>> Patrick Moore
>>> Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum
>>>
>>> -- 
>>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Any particular grease cleaner you would recommend!

2020-10-07 Thread James / Analog Cycles
Hi Patrick,

By your own writing, you have the same maintenance interval with prolink as 
you do with wax.  400 miles on road, 200 off.  I'd say the difference is 
ease of use with prolink.  It's faster, and all you need is a rag and 
prolink.  It's less expensive.  It cleans the chain, which wax does not.  
It has no PTFE, which is just about the worst thing you can use on your 
bike if you are fond of the outdoors.  Ski resorts are ahead of the game on 
this, banning PTFE from ski waxes on their slopes.  

So, really, I'd recommend the same thing we use up here in the wet.  
Prolink and a rag.  I wouldn't apply the prolink sparingly, it only works 
as a cleaner if you get it dripping wet.  Let it sit for a just a few 
minutes, then wipe 95% of it off.  Done.  10 minutes, tops, with the post 
lube rim cleaning.

Obviously, everyone is gunna have their own best method.  I want mine to be 
fast, effective, affordable and relatively eco friendly.  BTW, if anyone 
has used a GOOD actual eco lube, I'm all ears.  I've tried many, been 
impressed by none.  Requirements: has to be available stateside.  Not very 
eco friendly to fly lube over from England.

-James

On Tuesday, October 6, 2020 at 8:48:16 PM UTC-4 Patrick Moore wrote:

> Sheesh: More clearly and accurately: the main criteria are: chain and cog 
> longevity; shifting performance; time between lubes; ease of lubing and 
> cleaning; and distant fourth, a clean chain exterior. 
>
> On Tue, Oct 6, 2020 at 6:44 PM Patrick Moore  wrote:
>
>> ... But the main criterion is chain and cog and ring longevity. Actually, 
>> my rings last forever, so let's say cog and chain longevity; and also 
>> shifting performance, tho' I presently have onlhy 1 derailleur bike.
>>
>> Thoughts and suggestions?
>>
>> Thanks.
>>
>
> -- 
>
> ---
> Patrick Moore
> Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Any particular grease cleaner you would recommend!

2020-10-04 Thread James / Analog Cycles
 until the chain is coated and wet looking but not black with oil. 
 If you are riding in nice dry weather, boom, that’s it, you are done. If 
you are riding in the rain, or mud, or snow, etc, you are not done. Leave 
the chain alone and go buy a hat from us.  When you come back in five 
minutes, most of the solvents will have evaporated out.  You can skip this 
step if you are in a hurry.*

*Now, grab your other bottle of lube, Finish Line’s wet chain lube (Phil’s 
oil also works fine but it’s double the cost with no noticeable benefit) 
and apply a thin stream of that to the chain.  Get it fully coated, but you 
don’t need a gallon of the stuff. Just make sure the rollers and side 
plates are covered with a thin layer.  Wipe off the excess, good to go.*

*Prolink is the only lube I have used that pulls bits of metal out of the 
chain’s rollers.  The chain gets grit in the rollers, and that grit acts 
like sand paper and wears the chain down.  The little bits of metal that 
flake off further wear the chain down. Removing those is muy bueno. 
 Prolink does that. Finish line wet lube is just a cheap, goopy lube that 
keeps the chain running quietly and does well with wet weather.  It’s 
sticky and dark green and gross, which are all good traits in a heavy duty 
bad conditions lube. It comes off easily with Prolink. Reapply when the 
chain is either noisy, has some surface rust, or because you are about to 
go on a big bike trip.  Clean it with Prolink a few times a year, or when 
it’s really mucked up and gross.*

*Now go throw out that silly chain cleaner, and use that Simple Green on 
what it was intended for: pizza stains on your favorite concert Tee. 
 Actually, use Miracle Red for that, it’s better. *

- James / Analog Cycles / Tanglefoot Cycles / Fifth Season Canvas / Discord 
Components
On Sunday, October 4, 2020 at 12:01:30 AM UTC-4 Joel S wrote:

> Thanks Ray.  I ordered some the other day but always good to get another 
> endorsement. 
>
> Joel
> On Sat, Oct 3, 2020 at 6:10 PM Ray Varella  wrote:
>
>>
>> I also use simple green. 
>> I use diesel fuel for my parts cleaning. I find it works very well as a 
>> solvent and even if you leave it uncovered, the evaporation rate is 
>> extremely slow. 
>>
>> Back to simple green, you can adjust the ratio of cleaner to water if you 
>> buy the concentrate. 
>>
>> Here’s my endorsement: I drive rigs and occasionally someone will drag 
>> the air lines and power cord across the 5th wheel skid plate. 
>> These skid plates are covered with the thickest, dirtiest most tenacious 
>> grease you’ve ever gotten on yourself. 
>> A couple applications of simple green and a shop rag will wipe away a 
>> thick coating of this greasy mess. 
>> No part on any bicycle will ever accumulate this sort of grease. 
>> It’s also safe to use on many other household chores. 
>>
>> Ray
>> On Thursday, October 1, 2020 at 10:38:24 AM UTC-7, Joel S wrote:
>>>
>>> I used the finish line product but it goes very fast, then greased with 
>>> finis line.  Have hear talk of using a citrus based product.  Will use with 
>>> the park chain cleaning tank.  Any recommendations?
>>>
>>> Thank you
>>>
>>> Joel 
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> -- 
>>
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[RBW] Re: Advice on Onyx Hubs

2020-09-30 Thread James / Analog Cycles
The Vesper has a single sprag clutch, the classic hub has two.  If you ride 
hard, weigh more than 170, ride loaded, etc, just get the heavier one.  
We've had no durability issues with either hub, but then, we spec the hubs 
to the riders.  They are the best engineered hubs on the market.  Silent, 
actual instant engagement, but more importantly the drive mechanism is 
behind a set of sealed bearings and a labyrinth seal, not behind some 
little rubber o ring.  DT hubs have fine engagement, but they have a 
critical flaw.  The smallest, fastest wearing bearing in the hub is in the 
freehub body, and it's not supposed to be user serviceable.  If you do get 
it out, (which is possible) you will spend loads of time swearing.  Yes, DT 
covers it under warranty, but they do so. just by sending you a whole new 
freehub body.  That's kinda nuts.  I bet that most DT hub riders stick 
their finger in their hub, feel the outer bearings, think: that feels fine, 
and go on riding with a crummy, crushed, little freehub bearing.  I've 
never taken one apart that was more than 2 years old and had actually been 
ridden, that didn't have a bad freehub bearing.  

The best hub out there is the Onyx IMO, followed by the under rated Bitex 
touring hub, which is as good as any hub is going to get for under 150 
bucks.  

-James / Analog Cycles / Wheel Builder for the past 20+ years.  





On Tuesday, September 29, 2020 at 11:45:26 PM UTC-4 Philip Williamson wrote:

> Funny, I just ordered a 135 QR Vesper for rim brakes. The Vesper is the 
> only 135 rim brake option, according to the person I talked to on the 
> phone. That option is not on their website, which stumped me for years. I 
> just told them today, "Take it off the secret menu and put it on the 
> website, so Rivendell riders can buy them." 
>
> I don't imagine the Vesper gives anything up in durability, since Peter 
> Verdone buys them for his mountain bikes, and if he broke one the whole 
> world would know. I like the looks of the classic ones a little more, but 
> the Vesper isn't any weirder looking than a SON Wide Body. I chose Onyx 
> over any other hub, because I want the quiet running and the high 
> engagement. I rode one a little bit, and liked it a lot. It's unique. 
>
> Philip
> Santa Rosa, CA 
>
>
> On Tuesday, September 29, 2020 at 9:07:14 AM UTC-7 Elijah Bernstein-Cooper 
> wrote:
>
>> I would like to build a rear wheel for my 2020 Atlantis with an Onyx hub. 
>> I am debating between their newer Vesper model and older model. My priority 
>> is a durability over weight, within reason.
>>
>> Onyx has a new model out, Vesper, which is apparently lighter than their 
>> older model by 200g. However I don't mind a little extra weight and I'd 
>> prefer to have a more sturdy hub. 
>>
>> Does anyone have insight into if the reduced weight in the newer Vesper 
>> model sacrificed any durability?
>>
>> Vesper: 
>> https://onyxrp.com/store/mtb-hubs/onyx-vesper-mtb-cl-hg-11spd-135-qr-rear-hub/
>> Older model: 
>> https://onyxrp.com/store/mtb-hubs/mtb-cl-hg-qr/mtb-cl-hg-135-qr/
>>
>>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Looking for in house bike stand/holder

2020-09-26 Thread James / Analog Cycles
Best I've used (and I have used Delta, Minoura, Feedback):  
https://uniorusa.com/products/floor-stand-1693h?_pos=1&_sid=57a1e46ee&_ss=r

Here's our test:  we elevate expensive bikes on pedestals in the shop.  
They need to stay upright, more or less no matter what.  Kids, dogs, bikes 
bump into them.  These Unior stands are heavy, stable, easy to use, pretty 
affordable.  Highly adaptable: fat bikes, thru axles, it doesn't matter, 
that fork thing just works.   Stable without screwing it down, really 
insanely stable if you screw it to the floor or a board.

-James / Analog Cycles
On Friday, September 25, 2020 at 10:44:18 PM UTC-4 Joel wrote:

> Thanks Robert.  I’d love to use a wall but I don’t have a clear one.  I do 
> have floor space.  
>
> On Fri, Sep 25, 2020 at 10:39 PM Robert Hakim  
> wrote:
>
>> I know you stated that you prefer a floor stand but I believe these Velo 
>> hinges are worth consideration if you are able to lift your bike up. 
>> Here <https://www.feedbacksports.com/product/velo-hinge/>
>>
>> I live in a moderate size apartment and keep 6 bicycles reasonably 
>> accessible between a floor stand and 2 hinges. I was concerned with the 
>> weight of my off-road touring bike and was comforted by installing it so 
>> the hook would flex and allow the rear wheel to rest on the floor, while 
>> still able to pivot easily.  
>>
>> I do recommend mounting hook for the rear wheel to a small piece of wood 
>> to protect the paint from tire marks. 
>>
>> Robert,
>> SLC, Ut
>>
>> On Thursday, September 24, 2020 at 11:36:28 AM UTC-6 Joel wrote:
>>
>>> Cross posted on Bob.  
>>>
>>> I have the very old stands that Rivendell sold years ago, not very 
>>> stable.  I’d like either 1 double or 2 single bike holders, floor style to 
>>> keep my bikes safe. Recommendations appreciated.  I’ve seen a few on eBay 
>>> and Amazon but thought it wise to check here before buying.
>>>
>>> Thanks
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> -- 
>>
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[RBW] Re: Thoughts on albastach bars

2020-08-15 Thread James / Analog Cycles
This runs contrary to most opinions here, but I've fit and then removed a 
number of mustache and albastache bars over the years.  To clarify: I 
warned riders about the limits, but they were enticed by the looks.  
Limited hand positions, awkward wrist angle.  A dirt drop bar, up high, has 
a better wrist angle when riding in the hoods and in the drops.  With the 
current crop of 46- 52cm dirt drop bars out there, I think it's a more 
ergonomic, functional way to go.  

-James / Analog Cycles

On Thursday, August 13, 2020 at 4:19:27 PM UTC-4, Sam Perez wrote:
>
> Hi everyone I'm new to the group and absolutely enjoy riv bikes and 
> components. Any thoughts on albastach? Does it go as far back as the 
> albatross?

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[RBW] Re: 31.8 quill stems now available in 0, 30, 50 and 70mm

2020-08-10 Thread James / Analog Cycles
Hi Ash,  I don't think our website has the ability to add that feature.  
I'll ask our web person though.  In the meantime, if something is outta 
stock, just email us, it might secretly be in stock.  There's just 3 of us, 
so updating the website sometimes gets lost between other tasks.  

-james

On Monday, August 10, 2020 at 12:06:36 PM UTC-4, Ash wrote:
>
> James,
>
> Good to know they will be back someday!   Website feature request: it 
> would be nice if I could type my email id on the product page (similar to 
> Riv website) so I can get notified when the product is available for 
> ordering...
>
> Thanks!
> ash
>
> On Monday, 10 August 2020 at 05:48:25 UTC-7 James / Analog Cycles wrote:
>
>> Hi Ash,
>>
>> We will have black Mark's racks as soon as Nitto makes more!  The factory 
>> is maxed for the year, so I don't know when exactly that will be.  Once we 
>> receive them, they usually spend a month at the cerakoter's.
>>
>> -James
>>
>>
>> On Sunday, August 9, 2020 at 6:14:43 PM UTC-4, Ash wrote:
>>>
>>> James,  they look really lovely.  
>>>
>>> Q: when are you bringing back black Mark's rack?  (or F32)
>>>
>>> On Sunday, 9 August 2020 at 12:07:14 UTC-7 Weston Hein wrote:
>>>
>>>> Just wanted to chime in and say that the fit and finish on these stems 
>>>> is phenomenal. I ordered a 30mm to run drops on my Clem and was really 
>>>> impressed with the craftsmanship- the expander wedge snugs easily and 
>>>> there 
>>>> is no play or "rocking" back in forth felt with the stem run at full 
>>>> extension. 
>>>>
>>>> I really think the design gives you the best of both worlds: clamping 
>>>> force and removable faceplate of threadless along with the ease of height 
>>>> adjustment of a quill.
>>>>
>>>

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[RBW] Re: 31.8 quill stems now available in 0, 30, 50 and 70mm

2020-08-10 Thread James / Analog Cycles
The cerakote is made to minimize rust in harsh environments: exhaust 
systems, parts on boats, sand.  It's thin but very hard.  It has a better 
chance of not rusting than any other clear coat, as it does not require a 
primer.  That said, if it's scratched, that would be a point of rust 
egress.  

I am not saying rust can never happen with these, but I will say we have 
not seen rust on the cerakote stems yet.  The version of the stem that you 
have had a clear coat enamel, which, lacking a primer, was going to 
eventually rust underneath.  

If you would like, send your old stem, and I'll send it with our next batch 
to the cerakoter.  We can do satin black or clear.

Best, James

On Sunday, August 9, 2020 at 10:25:20 PM UTC-4, Drw wrote:
>
> Hey James, 
> Could you elaborate on the cerakote. I have one of the previous 2 bolt 
> stems, and love it, but it has developed rust under the coating. Does the 
> cerakote minimize this? I know it’s used on guns and stuff. Curious about 
> differences in the previous finishes and this new version. 

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[RBW] Re: 31.8 quill stems now available in 0, 30, 50 and 70mm

2020-08-10 Thread James / Analog Cycles
Thank you Kieran!  Glad you like them.

On Sunday, August 9, 2020 at 8:28:24 PM UTC-4, Kieran J wrote:
>
> Lovely!
>
> KJ
>
>
> On Sunday, August 9, 2020 at 8:11:39 AM UTC-7, James / Analog Cycles wrote:
>>
>> [image: DSC08805.JPG]
>> Discord Components now has a range of quill stems that might be of 
>> interest to the group.  In fact, we specifically developed these for 
>> Rivendell riders who wanted to run drop bars.  There are a bunch of great 
>> bars available in 31.8 clamp diameters, and a decreasing number of good 
>> bars in 25.4 or 26mm.  We've found the added stiffness of the larger bar 
>> helps with tracking over rough terrain, feels more solid with a loaded 
>> bike.  Add in steel as the stem material, stiffness is further increased.  
>> 4 bolt faceplate means you can run alt bars or drops, and have plenty of 
>> clamping force. 
>>
>> Made in Massachusetts by Alex Meade of Alex Meade Bikeworks for Discord.  
>> Cerakoted gloss clear or satin black in Mass.  Designed in Vermont by 
>> Discord.  
>>
>> 200mm quill.  22.2 diameter quill.  
>>
>> These are available at a few Riv dealers: Analog Cycles, the Psychic 
>> Derailleur.  Also available at a few Riv friendly but not Riv specific 
>> shops: C+L cycles in Montreal, Crumbworks in Japan.  
>>
>> -James / Discord Components 
>>
>> [image: DSC08830.JPG]
>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: 31.8 quill stems now available in 0, 30, 50 and 70mm

2020-08-10 Thread James / Analog Cycles
Ted, I'm happy to hear she likes her new fit!  Shorter stems are great for 
short torso riders, and that's about 50% of the population!

-James

On Sunday, August 9, 2020 at 7:15:20 PM UTC-4, ted wrote:
>
> My wife's pbh is long for her torso (relative to many folks), and she's 
> prone to neck and shoulder pain if too stretched out on a bike for more 
> than a few miles.
> The other week I finally swapped out the 50mm stem on her Roadini with a 0 
> offset stem I bought from James/Analog a looong time go.
> (I rationalize my inexcusable delinquency by observing her upright bared 
> Sam H serves her fine, so really she doesn't need the Roadini.)
> She came back from the first round the block test with a big smile on her 
> face. The bike finally fits her the way she wants, and we're both much 
> happier.
>
> Thanks James. Real nice stem.
>
>
> On Sunday, August 9, 2020 at 8:11:39 AM UTC-7, James / Analog Cycles wrote:
>>
>> [image: DSC08805.JPG]
>> Discord Components now has a range of quill stems that might be of 
>> interest to the group.  In fact, we specifically developed these for 
>> Rivendell riders who wanted to run drop bars.  There are a bunch of great 
>> bars available in 31.8 clamp diameters, and a decreasing number of good 
>> bars in 25.4 or 26mm.  We've found the added stiffness of the larger bar 
>> helps with tracking over rough terrain, feels more solid with a loaded 
>> bike.  Add in steel as the stem material, stiffness is further increased.  
>> 4 bolt faceplate means you can run alt bars or drops, and have plenty of 
>> clamping force. 
>>
>> Made in Massachusetts by Alex Meade of Alex Meade Bikeworks for Discord.  
>> Cerakoted gloss clear or satin black in Mass.  Designed in Vermont by 
>> Discord.  
>>
>> 200mm quill.  22.2 diameter quill.  
>>
>> These are available at a few Riv dealers: Analog Cycles, the Psychic 
>> Derailleur.  Also available at a few Riv friendly but not Riv specific 
>> shops: C+L cycles in Montreal, Crumbworks in Japan.  
>>
>> -James / Discord Components 
>>
>> [image: DSC08830.JPG]
>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: 31.8 quill stems now available in 0, 30, 50 and 70mm

2020-08-10 Thread James / Analog Cycles
Hi Ash,

We will have black Mark's racks as soon as Nitto makes more!  The factory 
is maxed for the year, so I don't know when exactly that will be.  Once we 
receive them, they usually spend a month at the cerakoter's.

-James

On Sunday, August 9, 2020 at 6:14:43 PM UTC-4, Ash wrote:
>
> James,  they look really lovely.  
>
> Q: when are you bringing back black Mark's rack?  (or F32)
>
> On Sunday, 9 August 2020 at 12:07:14 UTC-7 Weston Hein wrote:
>
>> Just wanted to chime in and say that the fit and finish on these stems is 
>> phenomenal. I ordered a 30mm to run drops on my Clem and was really 
>> impressed with the craftsmanship- the expander wedge snugs easily and there 
>> is no play or "rocking" back in forth felt with the stem run at full 
>> extension. 
>>
>> I really think the design gives you the best of both worlds: clamping 
>> force and removable faceplate of threadless along with the ease of height 
>> adjustment of a quill.
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: 31.8 quill stems now available in 0, 30, 50 and 70mm

2020-08-10 Thread James / Analog Cycles
Thanks Weston!  We're glad you like your stem!  It took a few years of 
development, so we're glad you think we got the details right!

-james

On Sunday, August 9, 2020 at 3:07:14 PM UTC-4, Weston Hein wrote:
>
> Just wanted to chime in and say that the fit and finish on these stems is 
> phenomenal. I ordered a 30mm to run drops on my Clem and was really 
> impressed with the craftsmanship- the expander wedge snugs easily and there 
> is no play or "rocking" back in forth felt with the stem run at full 
> extension. 
>
> I really think the design gives you the best of both worlds: clamping 
> force and removable faceplate of threadless along with the ease of height 
> adjustment of a quill.
>

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[RBW] Re: Your Favorite Adhesive for Riv Cork Grips???

2020-07-14 Thread James / Analog Cycles
Super 77 spray glue.   Way less expansive than Gorilla Glue.  Wait for it 
to set up for 30 seconds then slip on.  Some will squirt out, just have a 
rag handy.  You need a good coating, but that's any glue.  We have glued 
hundreds of grips on using that spray glue.  Never slips.  

-James / Analog Cycles



On Monday, July 13, 2020 at 1:19:26 PM UTC-4, John Phillips wrote:
>
>   Do you have a favorite adhesive you use to keep them from rotating?
>
> Thanks,
>
> John
>

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[RBW] Re: This is second time this happened and I am seriously annoyed. And I would like help to see this doesn't happen again.

2020-07-14 Thread James / Analog Cycles
Looks to me like an aftermarket hardware store bolt, which would have 
dubious strength.  Also 1 bolt posts are known for failure.  The fix is 
expensive but simple.  A Nitto Jaguar or S83 seatpost, with original 
bolts.  I've sold hundreds, never seen a failure.  
Also make sure the saddle is centered on the clamp.  Pushing it back adds 
leverage, and can lead to failure.  

-James / Analog Cycles 

On Monday, July 13, 2020 at 9:07:28 PM UTC-4, Ann L wrote:
>
> So I am minding my own business, out for my evening ride on my Appaloosa, 
> when the saddle came off.  I didn't crash but it was not fun.  The bolt was 
> completely sheared off.  But the weird thing is, the same thing happened to 
> me a year ago.  Any idea as to why this keeps happening?  The saddle is a 
> Brooks 67.
>

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[RBW] Re: New batch of Sam Hillbornes this fall.

2020-05-18 Thread James / Analog Cycles
New MIT Atlantis frames worth fine with shorter reach drop bars and 30mm or 
0mm stems.  No need to size down.  -James / Analog Cycles / Discord 
Components / Etc etc
https://www.instagram.com/p/Bk8H2AKhPiD/

[image: DSC07236-1.jpg]


On Sunday, May 17, 2020 at 10:56:07 PM UTC-4, Eamon Nordquist wrote:
>
> The newest MIT Atlantis models do seem to have gotten even longer than the 
> first round. I personally wouldn’t be able to fit dropbars to one without 
> it going a size too small, and having way more stem and seat post than I 
> would be happy with (short stem notwithstanding). I do hope the new 
> Hillbornes haven’t gotten longer. The roster is pretty chock full of long 
> bikes. Could be what others want, though. Who knows? 
>
> Eamon 
> Seattle 

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[RBW] Bike Trivia Night at Analog Cycles: Tonight on Instagram Live

2020-05-07 Thread James / Analog Cycles
Tonight (5/7) at 8 EST! Test your bike trivia prowess at our first Trivia 
night. Prizes of dubious quality! Bragging rights around the virtual water 
cooler! Hard questions! Easy questions! Learn something. Or don't, who 
cares! Join up at 8pm on Instagram Live, we'll register ya between 8-8:10, 
and then trivia begins. First second and third place prizes, plus bonus 
point prizes. Instagram.com/analogcycles

Questions will range from mtn bike to touring to racing to parts trivia, 
and other stuff further afield. 

Hope to see you there! 

-James / analog cycles

[image: 2006.0260.001-Little-Girl-o-1.jpg]
-James / Analog Cycles

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[RBW] Derailleur Clinic tonight, 5/4 on Instagram live. Thursday: Bike Trivia Night with prizes!

2020-05-04 Thread James / Analog Cycles
Free Clinic Tonight at instagram.com/analogcycles via Instagram live.  
We'll cover adjusting normal front and rear derailleurs, basic trouble 
shooting, that sorta thing.
8pm EST

On Thursday, May 7th, we'll be doing our first Instagram live mostly* bike 
theme'd trivia night*.  There will be a mix of esoteric and normal 
questions, plus some totally left field stuff.  

1st place gets 15% off one order of in stock mech on our website, not 
including completes or frames
2nd place gets 10% off
3rd gets 5%

Join the live stream to register at 8pm, there will be some logistics as we 
get everyone's name on a white board.  Game play will start at 8.10 or so.  
No late sign in's!  

Rules are simple:  first person to type a correct response that appears on 
our screen gets the point.  Probably best to play on a lap top rather than 
a phone, for faster typing.

Compete against your nerdy bike friends and see who will come out on top!  

-James / Analog Cycles

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[RBW] Tonight (4/27) Instagram Live Clinic on Headset and BB installation

2020-04-27 Thread James / Analog Cycles

Monday Evening, 8pm EST:  Instagram Live Clinic at 8pm. James will be 
covering headset install, headtube prep, crown race prep, bottom bracket 
install and bottom bracket shell prep.  Plus basic adjustments.   Good 
stuff to know even if you never do it yourself.  
instagram.com/analogcycles

Wednesday, Same Time Same Place, we'll do normal derailleur adjustments.  

-james / analog cycles

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[RBW] Re: Introduction with ulterior motive

2020-04-22 Thread James / Analog Cycles
You can have ultra low gears (lower than any stock bike) and keep decently 
high gears.  You just need to be willing to operate outside the box a bit.  
You can even use a double... but you need a specific kinda double, a wide 
range one, like the White Industries VBC road cranks.  A 44/24 combo up 
front and a 11-40 cassette in the back let you ride really low low gears, 
but still keep your high gears.  I have it on my Sam, works great.  I could 
blather on about it, but if you want to know specifics, IE what you'd have 
to change, let me know, I'm happy to help.

-James 'Turkey Vulture gearing' Johnson

On Wednesday, April 22, 2020 at 4:04:50 PM UTC-4, JP wrote:
>
> Yes i'm learning about options with regard to new gearing - i have a few 
> technical questions about it.  I don't mind coasting a bit downhill as well 
> if that's a limitation of a double that requires less torque from me.
>
> On Wednesday, April 22, 2020 at 9:14:13 AM UTC-7, Dorothy C wrote:
>>
>> Why sell the Sam and not just put a new crank and cassette on it?
>
>

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[RBW] Free Drivetrain Cleaning Clinic on Instagram Live, Wed. at 8pm EST

2020-04-21 Thread James / Analog Cycles
Free Drivetrain cleaning / lubing / rim care / disc care clinic on 
Wednesday, 8pm EST.  instagram.com/analogcycles live stream.  
We have a simple, non-traditional way to clean your drivetrain that works 
well.  Come check it out!  Monday's bar wrap clinic had about 60 viewers, 
so come join in the fun.  You can ask questions, make comments, tell jokes, 
share what your favorite Melvins album is, reminisce about Crystal Pepsi...

 It's like hanging out in a bike shop but without the smell of burritos, 
rubber and stale beer. 

Hope to see you there.  

-James  

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[RBW] Free Drivetrain cleaning / lubing clinic on Wednesday

2020-04-21 Thread James / Analog Cycles
Free Drivetrain cleaning / lubing / rim care / disc care clinic on 
Wednesday, 8pm EST.  instagram.com/analogcycles live stream.  
We have a simple, non-traditional way to clean your drivetrain that works 
well.  Come check it out!  Monday's bar wrap clinic had about 60 viewers, 
so come join in the fun.  You can ask questions, make comments, tell jokes, 
share what your favorite Melvins album is, reminisce about Crystal Pepsi...

 It's like hanging out in a bike shop but without the smell of burritos, 
rubber and stale beer. 

Hope to see you there.  

-James  

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[RBW] Re: Camping bikes

2020-04-20 Thread James / Analog Cycles
Should have added:  Low gears for exploring, wide tires for taking the road 
less traveled, fenders if it's gross out, good tool kit, good first aid 
kit.  

On Monday, April 20, 2020 at 12:00:19 PM UTC-4, James / Analog Cycles wrote:
>
> I find it's pretty easy (ok really easy) to overpack panniers.  I like a 
> Carradice camper sized saddle bag, 3 water bottles cages, one of which can 
> handle a 48oz nalgene if it's dry out or I won't be camping near a creek, 
> and a basket up front with a decent sized roll top bag.  Plenty of space 
> for luxury minimalist camping.  Not an oxymoron, if you pack well.  
>
> -James / Analog Cycles
>
> On Sunday, April 19, 2020 at 9:41:08 PM UTC-4, J L wrote:
>>
>> Hello all, 
>>
>> I would love to hear how folks have set up a bike for camping duty. Any 
>> sage advice? I am looking forward to a time where I can ride out from the 
>> house, do one or two overnights, and ride home. 
>>
>> Let’s say in this scenario I am doing more than putting stuff in a 
>> backpack or bike basket and going. 
>>
>> Jason 
>> SF, CA
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Camping bikes

2020-04-20 Thread James / Analog Cycles
I find it's pretty easy (ok really easy) to overpack panniers.  I like a 
Carradice camper sized saddle bag, 3 water bottles cages, one of which can 
handle a 48oz nalgene if it's dry out or I won't be camping near a creek, 
and a basket up front with a decent sized roll top bag.  Plenty of space 
for luxury minimalist camping.  Not an oxymoron, if you pack well.  

-James / Analog Cycles

On Sunday, April 19, 2020 at 9:41:08 PM UTC-4, J L wrote:
>
> Hello all, 
>
> I would love to hear how folks have set up a bike for camping duty. Any 
> sage advice? I am looking forward to a time where I can ride out from the 
> house, do one or two overnights, and ride home. 
>
> Let’s say in this scenario I am doing more than putting stuff in a 
> backpack or bike basket and going. 
>
> Jason 
> SF, CA

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[RBW] Tonite, 4/20 at 8pm EST, Handlebar Wrap Clinic

2020-04-20 Thread James / Analog Cycles
Monday 4/20, at 8pm:  Candice will be holding a clinic on wrapping bar tape 
the Analog way.  The clinic will be on Instagram live, and you can type 
questions real time for her to answer.  Check out the image below for an 
example of Candice's work: a stumpjumper she taped up yesterday.  
On Wedneday, Analog will be hosting a drivetrain cleaning and lubing 
clinic, same time same place.  Most folks over or under do it on drivetrain 
cleaning, but really, it can be super simple and effective with just a few 
basic steps.  Hint... No degreaser!  

All the clinics are free.

Tune in at instagram.com/analogcycles

[image: 94400051_1072645723106673_7946021893708972032_o.jpg]
-James / Analog Cycles / Tanglefoot Cycles / Discord Components / Fifth 
Season Canvas

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[RBW] Re: Free Clinic Schedule on Instagram Live

2020-04-17 Thread James / Analog Cycles
Hi Leah, 

Submissions in advance are the way to go.  We have to gather materials, 
ruminate on best presentation, pick out our outfits... 

I'll cover all of that stuff in the 1x clinic, but, nut shell is this:  if 
you don't use one extreme of your gears or another, IE the easiest or very 
hardest gears, 1x is simple, light and effective.  People who run 11-28 
cassettes and worry about percent differences between gear jumps need not 
apply.  So next time you do a normal ride, with some hills, see what gears 
you use and don't use.  Then you can determine what will work best for your 
Chev.  

-James

On Friday, April 17, 2020 at 11:19:14 AM UTC-4, Bicycle Belle Ding Ding! 
wrote:
>
> Can we submit questions early? Maybe it’s helpful to know them ahead of 
> time so you can prepare? 
>
> I’m interested in 1x video as well. You mentioned to me that I might 
> consider that for my upcoming Cheviot. I don’t know what makes a rider a 
> good candidate for 1x, but I’d like to know. I don’t shift a ton with my 
> rear derailleur, but I do use that front derailleur every time I climb the 
> mile-long hill to my house. Would I be able to grab an easy enough gear 
> with a 1x? What does it mean “don’t settle for stock gearing”? 
>
> I’m really looking forward to these clinics. Thanks so much, James and 
> Candice!

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[RBW] Re: steps to mount a tire / tubeless is easy?

2020-04-17 Thread James / Analog Cycles
Tom, you could ride around on granite tires and be fine.  You're super fit 
and probably think stumps make good pillows!  

I hope to see you this summer, I'll start carving some new tires for you.

-james

On Friday, April 17, 2020 at 10:56:54 AM UTC-4, Tom Horton wrote:
>
> all this tubeless talk, fascinating, but cannot resist putting in my two 
> cents for the Luddite end of the spectrum. I have equipped my big ole MIT 
> atlantis with big ole heavy schwalbe marathon plus mtb tires, 2.25 inches, 
> and have spent months happily, flatlessly riding briary, brushy woodland 
> trails. I live in level country, and I'm certain that if I were to set up 
> tubeless I'd see a difference. but I'm happy enough with the schwalbes 
> (which just put 5 mm of latex under the tread, not rocket science), that I 
> plan to take the atlantis on a d.c. to pittsburgh ride this summer.  to 
> keep things in perspective, I've made my living writing since 1972 and 
> continue to do it all with my 1984 DOS word processor (thank god for usb 
> floppy drives!).
>
> tom h
>
>
>
> On Thursday, April 16, 2020 at 10:29:15 PM UTC-4, ted wrote:
>>
>> Someone I won't name, because he should be gratefully honored for his 
>> contributions and definitely never hectored about such trivia, wrote he 
>> could think of at least 11 steps to mounting a tube in a tire off the top 
>> of his head.
>>
>> I only think of 10.
>>Put a layer of rim tape on the rim
>>Put one bead of the tire on the rim down in the well
>>Put talc on the tube or the inside surface of the tire.
>>Put just enough air in the tube to give it some shape
>>Put the tube inside the tire and around the rim (with the valve 
>> through the hole of course)
>>Push the other bead of the tire onto the rim and down into the well
>>Make sure the tube isn't stuck under a tire bead anyplace
>>Inflate to seat the beads
>>Make sure the beads are seated
>>Reduce pressure to what you ride
>>
>> What am I missing?
>>
>> Now for tubeless its (assuming no difficulties/hiccups)
>>Put n layers of tubeless rim tape on the rim
>>Install the valve stem, pull the core 
>>Slather soapy water al over the place
>>Put the tire on the rim
>>Use a compressor to blow air through the valve body to seat the tire 
>> (may spray soapy water about doing this)
>>Put sealant in through the valve
>>Put the valve core back in
>>Inflate the tire (may have sealant spraying about doing this)
>>Check that sealant isn't coming out around the bead 
>>Spin the wheel a few times
>>Let it sit overnight (reminds me of gluing tubulars)
>>Re-inflate to riding pressure because it probably got soft overnight
>>
>> Now I'll agree that that doesn't sound too bad, only a dozen steps. I 
>> also agree that anyone who works on stuff, and has a shop or a garage, 
>> should get a compressor. Well worth the investment (can you say air tools, 
>> fun). But with the potential for spraying soapy water and/or sealant about, 
>> and the risk of significant difficulty seating/sealing the beads etc, I 
>> don't see how an honest appraisal can really conclude its not significantly 
>> more trouble than installing tires with tubes. Kinda like gluing tubulars. 
>> Now I can't quote anybody saying tubeless setup is trivial and as easy as 
>> using tubes, but I feel like some proponents sort of imply something close 
>> to that. Am I wrong?
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: Quickbeam skewer question

2020-04-17 Thread James / Analog Cycles
Here's a guess, and this is only a legit guess if you can partly but not 
fully insert the skewer.  The axle is bent, near the drop out, on the fixed 
side.  When inserting the skewer, if it goes in maybe a centimeter but then 
stops, that would be my guess.  It would work the other way because... I 
don't actually know the mechanical reason, but let's just say I've seen it 
a number of times.  I think it's cause you can get a run at it, a longer 
shove before it hits the bend.  Someone smarter than me can tell us the 
real reason. 

Just run your QR backward and give people dirty looks if they call you out 
for it.  Seems pretty easy.

-james

On Friday, April 17, 2020 at 9:11:59 AM UTC-4, Ted Shwartz wrote:
>
> Hello
>   
> My QB has been running fixed since I bought it. Yesterday I flopped the 
> rear wheel to the freewheel side.
>
> When I tried to reinsert the skewer from the other side I find that it 
> will not insert from the fixed side, but only on the freewheel side.
>
> Am I doing something wrong, is my skewer damaged, or is this just another 
> idiosyncrasy of a very idiosyncratic bicycle?
>
> Regards
> Ted S
>
>

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[RBW] Re: steps to mount a tire / tubeless is easy?

2020-04-17 Thread James / Analog Cycles
Both lists are missing rim prep, which is a few steps, but none of this is 
about numbers, really.  

Watch that tutorial, it can be really mess or it can be really clean.  I'd 
say on the whole, cleaning your chain is messier than setting up tubeless, 
and you have to do it about 52 times more often, if you are going thru a 
set of tires in a year.  104 times more often if you are going thru tires 
every two years.  

I've fixed flats with tubes in pouring rain, covered in mud filled with 
mica, and put the new tube in and had it immediately flat.  When your tire 
is filled with mud, there is no way to clean it out in the field.  I've had 
to fix flats in heavily mosquito infested areas, which, even for a fast 
tube changes (I've been a bike shop nerd since I was 15 and I'm 38 now... 
probably have changed a few thousand tubes), means you are gunna get 
covered in bites.  With tubeless you probably wouldn't get the flat in the 
first place, but if you did, you could plug it with out even getting your 
hands dirty.  You don't even take the wheel off.  On one trip in relatively 
recent memory, I was riding RTP tires on some bad roads and ripped a 2 inch 
hole in the sidewall.  Fixed it without wheel removal.  A few minutes 
later, a 1 inch rip, again fixed without wheel removal.  Then a big sharp 
rock took a chunk out of the tread.  Plugged it.  No tire removal.  Sure 
there was some sealant around, but sealant is easier to get off your hands 
than black chain oil any day.  

Having worked in shops at this point longer than I have not worked in 
shops, I've seen the best mechanics accidentally puncture a tube before 
it's even inflated, or have the tire not seat properly and blow the tire 
off the rim, often leading to completely trashed tires as the casing blows 
off the bead.  

No system is perfect, that's for sure.  I wish tubeless didn't use a goo, 
but I'd rather deal with the goo and the ease of fixing flats than a bunch 
of tubes any day.  For the record, up until about 5 years ago, I was 
staunchly anti tubeless.  I had to prove it's utility with a bunch of tests 
before I adopted it.  

I do that with every new technology that our shop adopts.  Be it 1x, disc 
brakes, tubeless.  It goes through a vetting process.  Not everything makes 
it.  Hydraulic brakes don't have me convinced.  Electric shifting certainly 
doesn't.  I built a really nice front suspension bike last summer, it was 
so boring to ride that I have parted it out already.  

Certain new things are actually empirically better than old things.  That 
doesn't mean you have to adopt them or like them.  I love my wood stove.  
But after going a year with out refridgeration and using a cold spring to 
keep things cool, I can say I'm stoked on my DC solar powered fridge.  I 
love film cameras, but what I really like is the quality of their lenses.  
So I put 60 year old lenses on my Sony Digital camera.  Point is, it's ok 
to be on different sides of an issue, but I think it's important to know 
why you are on that side.  My job as a bike builder is to make sure people 
have the easiest to maintain and most reliable bike possible.  Extensive 
field testing has shown me that 99% of tubeless flats can be fixed without 
a tube, faster, and easier than with a tube.  To me that's a win for my 
customers.  Add in the lighter weight, lower tire pressures and ability to 
run softer tubes, and you have a recipe for a good idea.  

By the way, soapy water spraying around is the only time my shop gets such 
a luxury...

-james

On Thursday, April 16, 2020 at 10:29:15 PM UTC-4, ted wrote:
>
> Someone I won't name, because he should be gratefully honored for his 
> contributions and definitely never hectored about such trivia, wrote he 
> could think of at least 11 steps to mounting a tube in a tire off the top 
> of his head.
>
> I only think of 10.
>Put a layer of rim tape on the rim
>Put one bead of the tire on the rim down in the well
>Put talc on the tube or the inside surface of the tire.
>Put just enough air in the tube to give it some shape
>Put the tube inside the tire and around the rim (with the valve through 
> the hole of course)
>Push the other bead of the tire onto the rim and down into the well
>Make sure the tube isn't stuck under a tire bead anyplace
>Inflate to seat the beads
>Make sure the beads are seated
>Reduce pressure to what you ride
>
> What am I missing?
>
> Now for tubeless its (assuming no difficulties/hiccups)
>Put n layers of tubeless rim tape on the rim
>Install the valve stem, pull the core 
>Slather soapy water al over the place
>Put the tire on the rim
>Use a compressor to blow air through the valve body to seat the tire 
> (may spray soapy water about doing this)
>Put sealant in through the valve
>Put the valve core back in
>Inflate the tire (may have sealant spraying about doing this)
>Check that sealant isn't coming out around the bead 

[RBW] Re: Analog Cycles: Free Tubeless Clinic on Instagram Live

2020-04-17 Thread James / Analog Cycles
I'll put the top five randomly in a clinic!  

On Friday, April 17, 2020 at 2:01:40 AM UTC-4, Ian Terry wrote:
>
> Please, please, top five Melvins albums.
>
> On Monday, April 13, 2020 at 4:59:03 PM UTC-4, Bicycle Belle Ding Ding! 
> wrote:
>>
>> ***Posted on behalf of James and Candice, whose posts are delayed on the 
>> List*** 
>>
>> Analog Cycles, a Rivendell dealer out of rural Vermont has mounted 500 
>> tubeless tires and counting. They have honed their technique and are 
>> willing to share their tips on all things tubeless. James and Candice are 
>> offering us a FREE tubeless clinic. They will cover tubeless mounting, 
>> maintenance, and flat-fixing via an Instagram Live session. You will be 
>> able to ask your questions via text during the video and get your answers, 
>> straight from Analog. 
>>
>> If you’ve been considering going tubeless or if you have just wanted to 
>> know how it all works, join us Wednesday, April 15 at 5 pm EASTERN time. 
>> Most folks are working from home, so hope those from other time zones can 
>> hop on. Follow Analog Cycles on Instagram and look for them to go live 4.15 
>> at 5pm EST. 
>>
>> Thanks so much, James and Candice - I can’t wait to tune in. 
>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: Free Clinic Schedule on Instagram Live

2020-04-17 Thread James / Analog Cycles
*Adding: 5/6 Handlebar tape customization: different finishes to make your 
tape unique*
*5/13:  Drivetrain hacks:  Turkey Vulture, Turkey Vulture Supreme, 1x 
friction shifting.  Don't settle for stock gearing!  *



On Thursday, April 16, 2020 at 8:37:52 PM UTC-4, James / Analog Cycles 
wrote:
>
> Join the fun.  Our first clinic had about 160 different people stop in, 
> and I learned that I shouldn't repeat questions!  Joining the clinics is 
> super easy.  Follow @analogcycles on instagram, and in the stories section, 
> you'll see our name with a glowy glowy ring around it when the clinic goes 
> live.   You can ask ?s by typing them out, and we'll answer them as best we 
> can.  You can only do a live feed for 30 minutes, but if we're not 
> finished, we'll pause while we restart, and wait a few for folks to 
> rejoin.  
>
> Please feel free to offer suggestions for clinics or talks.  All clinics 
> will start at 8pm EST so more folks can watch.  
>
> 4/20/2020:  We don't smoke weed, so why not have a clinic on 4/20?  
> Candice will show you how to wrap handlebar tape.  She's demo it on a tape 
> that requires a bit more from the person wrapping it, so if you get this 
> technique, you can do ANY tape.  She'll also cover twining the end, 
> benefits of different types of tape, and the mysteries of GEL... This was a 
> submitted idea.
>
> 4/22:  Drivetrain cleaning and lubing, the Analog way.  I'd say most folks 
> are either doing it wrong or are trying to hard, or both.  Come watch our 
> simple presentation on drivetrain cleaning and lubing.  We'll also cover 
> cleaning rims and rotors.  Notice: our way to do it is fast, simple and 
> affordable.  No tricks, no special tools.
>
> 4/27:  Headset and bottom bracket installation.  We'll do a few different 
> types, and talk about bear preload and maintenance and why Chris King 
> headsets are over rated.  Submitted idea.
>
> 4/29:  Normal derailleur adjustment.  Front and Rear.  We'll also talk 
> about cables and housing, installation.
>
> 5/4:  1x derailleur adjustment.  Also talk about chain tension, chain 
> length, quick links.  
>
> 5/6:  Open!  Who wants to come up with something
>
> 5/11:  What goes into frame prep?  A talk by Candice about how she preps 
> frames before building them.  Not a clinic so much as a, hey look this is a 
> lot of work but it's important, talk.
>
> We'll keep going as long as people are stuck indoors, or if it just stays 
> popular.  Maybe go back to one a week once COVID lets people get outside 
> more.  
>
> Let us know what you want to see!  
>
> James / Analog Cycles / Tanglefoot Cycles / Discord Components / Fifth 
> Season Canvas.
>

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[RBW] Re: Free Clinic Schedule on Instagram Live

2020-04-17 Thread James / Analog Cycles
I'll add a tape customization clinic.  There are a bunch of things you can 
do, glitter is the easiest, but the others are fun as well.

-james

On Thursday, April 16, 2020 at 8:58:41 PM UTC-4, Joe Bernard wrote:
>
> I want to see how Candice adds sparkle to the tape! 

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[RBW] Re: Free Clinic Schedule on Instagram Live

2020-04-17 Thread James / Analog Cycles
Sure.  We can do that.  We have a number of bikes here with it set up.  

On Friday, April 17, 2020 at 1:02:05 AM UTC-4, J Imler wrote:
>
> Turkey vulture demo. Component meshing...with smooth results.

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[RBW] Free Clinic Schedule on Instagram Live

2020-04-16 Thread James / Analog Cycles
Join the fun.  Our first clinic had about 160 different people stop in, and 
I learned that I shouldn't repeat questions!  Joining the clinics is super 
easy.  Follow @analogcycles on instagram, and in the stories section, 
you'll see our name with a glowy glowy ring around it when the clinic goes 
live.   You can ask ?s by typing them out, and we'll answer them as best we 
can.  You can only do a live feed for 30 minutes, but if we're not 
finished, we'll pause while we restart, and wait a few for folks to 
rejoin.  

Please feel free to offer suggestions for clinics or talks.  All clinics 
will start at 8pm EST so more folks can watch.  

4/20/2020:  We don't smoke weed, so why not have a clinic on 4/20?  Candice 
will show you how to wrap handlebar tape.  She's demo it on a tape that 
requires a bit more from the person wrapping it, so if you get this 
technique, you can do ANY tape.  She'll also cover twining the end, 
benefits of different types of tape, and the mysteries of GEL... This was a 
submitted idea.

4/22:  Drivetrain cleaning and lubing, the Analog way.  I'd say most folks 
are either doing it wrong or are trying to hard, or both.  Come watch our 
simple presentation on drivetrain cleaning and lubing.  We'll also cover 
cleaning rims and rotors.  Notice: our way to do it is fast, simple and 
affordable.  No tricks, no special tools.

4/27:  Headset and bottom bracket installation.  We'll do a few different 
types, and talk about bear preload and maintenance and why Chris King 
headsets are over rated.  Submitted idea.

4/29:  Normal derailleur adjustment.  Front and Rear.  We'll also talk 
about cables and housing, installation.

5/4:  1x derailleur adjustment.  Also talk about chain tension, chain 
length, quick links.  

5/6:  Open!  Who wants to come up with something

5/11:  What goes into frame prep?  A talk by Candice about how she preps 
frames before building them.  Not a clinic so much as a, hey look this is a 
lot of work but it's important, talk.

We'll keep going as long as people are stuck indoors, or if it just stays 
popular.  Maybe go back to one a week once COVID lets people get outside 
more.  

Let us know what you want to see!  

James / Analog Cycles / Tanglefoot Cycles / Discord Components / Fifth 
Season Canvas.

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[RBW] Re: Analog Cycles: Free Tubeless Clinic on Instagram Live

2020-04-16 Thread James / Analog Cycles
Happy to help.  I'll post new clinics on the group soon.  

On Monday, April 13, 2020 at 4:59:03 PM UTC-4, Bicycle Belle Ding Ding! 
wrote:
>
> ***Posted on behalf of James and Candice, whose posts are delayed on the 
> List*** 
>
> Analog Cycles, a Rivendell dealer out of rural Vermont has mounted 500 
> tubeless tires and counting. They have honed their technique and are 
> willing to share their tips on all things tubeless. James and Candice are 
> offering us a FREE tubeless clinic. They will cover tubeless mounting, 
> maintenance, and flat-fixing via an Instagram Live session. You will be 
> able to ask your questions via text during the video and get your answers, 
> straight from Analog. 
>
> If you’ve been considering going tubeless or if you have just wanted to 
> know how it all works, join us Wednesday, April 15 at 5 pm EASTERN time. 
> Most folks are working from home, so hope those from other time zones can 
> hop on. Follow Analog Cycles on Instagram and look for them to go live 4.15 
> at 5pm EST. 
>
> Thanks so much, James and Candice - I can’t wait to tune in. 
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Analog Cycles: Free Tubeless Clinic on Instagram Live

2020-04-16 Thread James / Analog Cycles
Sounds good, we can do a headset and bb clinic.  We're about to start 
stocking some nice tools that folks are probably not super hip to, so we'll 
get those tools in then do a clinic so you can get a handle on what ya 
need.  -james / analog cycles

On Thursday, April 16, 2020 at 10:35:34 AM UTC-4, j.schwartz wrote:
>
> Maybe headset installs and maintenance?  also BB install and removal. 
>  (also the associated tools needed)
> I guess most people on this list are using threaded headsets and sq.tape 
> bb's.
> It's sort of the last frontier of home mechanics since the frames often 
> come with the headsets and bottom brackets installed.
>
>
>
>
> On Thursday, April 16, 2020 at 9:27:11 AM UTC-4, James / Analog Cycles 
> wrote:
>>
>> Hey thanks to everyone who showed up yesterday evening.  We had a really 
>> good turn out.  Thanks to Leah for putting it together.  Now that I can 
>> post in real time, I'll be able to easily add more clinics.  Holler with 
>> ideas, we'll try to get to them all.  Right now we are thinking:  
>>
>>
>>- How to wrap bars / shellac / twine.  It's easy, but we'll break it 
>>down so you KNOW it's easy.
>>- Basic wheel truing
>>- Basic derailleur adjustments
>>- Adjusting Canti brakes and installing new pads
>>- Adjusting mechanical disc brakes, truing rotors
>>- Adjusting V brakes, installing new pads
>>- Clean your drivetrain and re oil
>>- Drop bar and saddle set up
>>- Customize your cloth handlebar tape
>>
>> We can also do talks on things, rather than just clinics, IE geometry 
>> talks, fitting talks, gearing, wheel building, loading your bike, ways to 
>> make bad coffee taste good, top 5 melvins albums, early american gardens, 
>> etc.  
>>
>> I'm thinking we'll push the clinics back to 8pm so folks out west can 
>> more easily join in.  Probably try to do two a week, Mondays and Wednesdays.
>>
>> -James / Analog Cycles
>>
>>
>> On Monday, April 13, 2020 at 4:59:03 PM UTC-4, Bicycle Belle Ding Ding! 
>> wrote:
>>>
>>> ***Posted on behalf of James and Candice, whose posts are delayed on the 
>>> List*** 
>>>
>>> Analog Cycles, a Rivendell dealer out of rural Vermont has mounted 500 
>>> tubeless tires and counting. They have honed their technique and are 
>>> willing to share their tips on all things tubeless. James and Candice are 
>>> offering us a FREE tubeless clinic. They will cover tubeless mounting, 
>>> maintenance, and flat-fixing via an Instagram Live session. You will be 
>>> able to ask your questions via text during the video and get your answers, 
>>> straight from Analog. 
>>>
>>> If you’ve been considering going tubeless or if you have just wanted to 
>>> know how it all works, join us Wednesday, April 15 at 5 pm EASTERN time. 
>>> Most folks are working from home, so hope those from other time zones can 
>>> hop on. Follow Analog Cycles on Instagram and look for them to go live 4.15 
>>> at 5pm EST. 
>>>
>>> Thanks so much, James and Candice - I can’t wait to tune in. 
>>>
>>>

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[RBW] Re: Analog Cycles: Free Tubeless Clinic on Instagram Live

2020-04-16 Thread James / Analog Cycles
Hey thanks to everyone who showed up yesterday evening.  We had a really 
good turn out.  Thanks to Leah for putting it together.  Now that I can 
post in real time, I'll be able to easily add more clinics.  Holler with 
ideas, we'll try to get to them all.  Right now we are thinking:  


   - How to wrap bars / shellac / twine.  It's easy, but we'll break it 
   down so you KNOW it's easy.
   - Basic wheel truing
   - Basic derailleur adjustments
   - Adjusting Canti brakes and installing new pads
   - Adjusting mechanical disc brakes, truing rotors
   - Adjusting V brakes, installing new pads
   - Clean your drivetrain and re oil
   - Drop bar and saddle set up
   - Customize your cloth handlebar tape

We can also do talks on things, rather than just clinics, IE geometry 
talks, fitting talks, gearing, wheel building, loading your bike, ways to 
make bad coffee taste good, top 5 melvins albums, early american gardens, 
etc.  

I'm thinking we'll push the clinics back to 8pm so folks out west can more 
easily join in.  Probably try to do two a week, Mondays and Wednesdays.

-James / Analog Cycles


On Monday, April 13, 2020 at 4:59:03 PM UTC-4, Bicycle Belle Ding Ding! 
wrote:
>
> ***Posted on behalf of James and Candice, whose posts are delayed on the 
> List*** 
>
> Analog Cycles, a Rivendell dealer out of rural Vermont has mounted 500 
> tubeless tires and counting. They have honed their technique and are 
> willing to share their tips on all things tubeless. James and Candice are 
> offering us a FREE tubeless clinic. They will cover tubeless mounting, 
> maintenance, and flat-fixing via an Instagram Live session. You will be 
> able to ask your questions via text during the video and get your answers, 
> straight from Analog. 
>
> If you’ve been considering going tubeless or if you have just wanted to 
> know how it all works, join us Wednesday, April 15 at 5 pm EASTERN time. 
> Most folks are working from home, so hope those from other time zones can 
> hop on. Follow Analog Cycles on Instagram and look for them to go live 4.15 
> at 5pm EST. 
>
> Thanks so much, James and Candice - I can’t wait to tune in. 
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Pedal Strikes when Turning

2020-04-15 Thread James / Analog Cycles
Crit bikes have high BB's because you need to pedal thru turns.  Riv style 
frames are not made for that.  You just don't pedal in turns.  Wide 
platform pedals don't help either.  

-James / Analog Cycles / Fan of high bottom brackets and short cranks.

On Wednesday, April 15, 2020 at 12:18:02 PM UTC-4, John Hawrylak wrote:
>
> Past and current Rivendell models with 700C wheels have Bottom Bracket 
> Drops (BBD) in the 75 to 80 mm range.  The exceptions seem to be: 
> GusBothWilson at 70mm, Legalos at 70mm, and Quickbeam at 73mm.
>
> Is it common to have pedal strikes while turning??  Perhaps, you avoid 
> pedaling when turning or cornering or hold the cranks near 3 and 9 o'clock.
>
> John Hawrylak
> Woodstown NJ
>

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[RBW] Re: Why I went Tubeless

2020-04-15 Thread James / Analog Cycles
FWIW, Panaracer sealant freezes at very mild temps, and becomes unusable.  
We discovered this on a night that was in the high 20's. Our shop is not 
heated at night and we came back to unusable sealant.  Maybe this isn't the 
case if it's mixed.  

-James


On Wednesday, April 15, 2020 at 8:49:23 AM UTC-4, Tim Bantham wrote:
>
> There's been some discussion on the board lately about the pros and cons 
> of tubeless tires. I am a tubeless believer but I wasn't always that way. I 
> wanted to share my experiences as a way of adding some perspective to those 
> considering giving it a go. Analog cycles is doing an Instagram live on 
> tubeless tonight at 5:00 PM ET. You should watch it if you are remotely 
> interested. Much of my current tubeless knowledge was gained by talking 
> with James and Candice. Before I met the good folks at Analog I had quite a 
> bit of experience with tubeless setups. Some good and some not so good. 
>
> The first thing I'll make clear is that you can continue to run tubes in 
> your tires and be perfectly happy for the remainder of your biking life. 
> Nothing wrong with that. Tubeless is not going to rock your world. However, 
> there are many benefits to setting your tires up tubeless. I'd like to 
> share those with you based on my own experiences. 
>
> You can run low pressure without fear of getting a pinch flat. If you are 
> a Riv fan you already know the benefit of soft tires. Subtle ride quality 
> with lots of cush to absorb the bumps. To me this is worth it alone but 
> there are other benefits. 
>
> Much easier to fix a flat tire. True confession I rarely get a flat tire 
> with tubeless. If you get a small puncture sometimes just riding the tire 
> allows sealant to get into the hole and seal the tire. If it doesn't seal 
> you have to plug the hole. Let's say you run over a nail. You can fix the 
> flat without removing the wheel. Murphy's law is that 75% of your flats 
> will be on the rear tire.With a tube you have to take the rear wheel off in 
> the field. No big deal right? I know... I've done it tons of times. That 
> said, if I can avoid doing so why wouldn't I? With tubeless you can plug 
> the hole without removing the wheel from the bike. That to me that is a 
> significant benefit. Of course there remains the possibility that you can 
> get a gash in the sidewall. That happens but if you are prepared with 
> gorilla tape and gorilla glue you can fix that without removing the wheel 
> from the bike as well. 
>
> Final tips: 
>
>- Get the Dynapill made by Dynaplug for your tubeless repairs. 
>- Still carry a tube with you. A tube could always be installed as a 
>last resort but it should be rare. 
>- Invest in a good air compressor. An air compressor is handy! The 
>pumps that are sold claiming to seat tubeless tires don't work as claimed. 
>I know because I own one. 
>- Don't try to seat tubeless with a regular bicycle pump. Doesn't work 
>and not worth the frustration. See above. 
>- Use Orange Seal Endurance Sealant. Best sealant on the market. Blows 
>away anything else I've ever tried. 
>- The tubeless tape that Analog sells is fantastic! Easy to work with, 
>has the right amount of stretch. 
>- Don't try to set up any old rim/tire combo tubeless. Look for rims 
>that are advertised as tubeless. I have Velocity Cliffhangers and Quills 
> on 
>my bikes. Both set up easily.  
>- Buy a tubeless ready tire. 
>- Don't worry about sealant randomly oozing out of your tire. Doesn't 
>happen if you set everything up correctly.
>- Use a regular bicycle pump to maintain air in your tires after 
>successful set up. 
>- Refill with fresh sealant every six months.
>- Buy the Park Tools valve core remover to make adding fresh sealant 
>easier. 
>
> Hit me up with any questions. Do watch the tubeless set up live show 
> tonight on Instagram and go to Analogs website for tubeless set up tips. 
>
> Tim
>
>
>
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Lighten Up: Clem Edition

2020-04-15 Thread James / Analog Cycles
A quick word of warning:  sharing build ideas is A OK, but all build specs 
that we put together are for an individual.  Wheels, tires, spokes, etc, 
need to match a rider and riding style, the weight of the rider, the bike 
and the load needs to be considered.  For example, SP's smaller diameter 
axle and thinner flanges make it less than ideal match for larger riders.  
It's best, like in the medical world, to talk to a professional wheel 
builder or mechanic with lots of experience, when considering a component 
switch.  There is no blanket recommendation out there that's applicable to 
everyone.  I'd hate to see someone copy a build we've put together, have 
shop X assemble the wheels, and then see it all fail under that rider.  In 
a way, that comes back on us, even if we didn't make the direct 
recommendation.

If you are looking for a good wheel builder, and don't want to go through 
our shop, no sweat.  Tommy at Cutlass Velo is an expert wheel builder, he'd 
also be a good guy to reach out to.  He really really cares about what he 
does.  

-James



On Wednesday, April 8, 2020 at 12:02:00 AM UTC-4, Bicycle Belle Ding Ding! 
wrote:
>
> I’m not fully committing to this yet. Roberta and I get into trouble 
> because we talk on Marco Polo and then we get ideas and then we like each 
> other’s ideas and the next thing we know our wallets are on fire. 
>
> So, I am ordering a Cheviot, and I am spending extra $ to build it with 
> light parts. But that bike is a long way off, months, in fact. Meanwhile, 
> Roberta is giving her beloved Appaloosa a makeover and it is getting lots 
> of new parts and she’s having all the fun. And since we’re #Rivsisters and 
> I’m like that little sister who wants what her sister has, I want to 
> explore what it would take to lighten up my Clem L, which is my only bike 
> at present, and which is quite heavy. You’ll have heard me mention this in 
> Joe’s What Is A Cheviot thread. If my Clem could lose a little weight it 
> would be the most perfect bike anyone could dream up. A Susie version of 
> Clems would be just so ideal - someone should tell Riv. 
>
> Anyway, if I got aluminum Bosco bars, and new wheels (don’t ask me what 
> kind, how would I know?) would this make my bike feel considerably lighter? 
> I don’t think I can give up my front derailleur because I use it for Killer 
> Hill. And what if I wanted to add dyno while I was at it? Would that negate 
> my weight savings? Also, I’m keeping my racks; I can’t part with those. 
> Maybe I’m not the best candidate for this... 
>
> Has anyone built a Clem up with lighter parts? Does it make a big 
> difference? As in, is it worth the money? 
>
> Thanks! 
> Leah

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Re: [RBW] Lighten Up: Clem Edition

2020-04-15 Thread James / Analog Cycles
Always happy to be busy building nice wheels!  It's a good chunk of our 
business, and it's one we love doing.  I've learned so much about building 
wheels in the past 23 years of doing it.  It's nice to be able to bring 
that bear for folks... rims, spokes, even hubs are so much better today 
than they were 10 years ago.  Old rim profiles were flexy, old hubs were 
clunky and had slow engagement.  It's exciting to be able to build light 
strong wheels with low service intervals.  I think if Rivendell was being 
created now, rather than in 1994, Grant would have a very different view on 
tubeless, disc brakes, rim profiles etc.  He goes with what he knows, but 
that would a different knowledge base if he was 30 years old starting the 
company just now... I don't mean to say he's not knowledgeable, because he 
is, but rather, his perspective would be different.  

For example, light(ish) tubeless tires and stiff rims make way more sense 
than big heavy schwalbe tires and heavy, flexy rims, as they both don't get 
flats, but only one has a light feeling, zippy ride quality.  

If you were touring, you could carry TWO spare tubeless tires with the 
weight you'd save by ditching the Schwalbe Marathons.  But you wouldn't 
need to, because softer tires get less flats.  Think about very full vs 
half full water ballons.  Drop em both, which pops?

-James / Analog Cycles in the woods of Vermont

On Sunday, April 12, 2020 at 10:04:37 PM UTC-4, Joe Bernard wrote:
>
> The bottom line for me - which veers off into what *I* like cuz that's how 
> threads travel and I feel like I shouldn't keep guessing/presuming what 
> Leah wants - is Clems are awesome bikes and I think worthy of fancy wheels. 
>
> Which is going to translate to my upcoming custom, another frame I don't 
> expect to be particularly flyweight because I didn't order it that way. I 
> had planned to put basic wheels on and revel in the frame itself, but now 
> (Leah's fault!) I have that jones for the fanciness, too. James is going to 
> be a busy wheelbuilder soon! 
>

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[RBW] Re: What happened to the upside down SA thumb shifters the Riv. was selling

2020-04-15 Thread James / Analog Cycles
I second that the Sunrace shifters were less than ideal.  I'll go and be 
contrarian and say the Microshift shifters are just ok, they slip under 
load when riding off road.  You need a ratchet, and the best / strongest 
ratchet is the Dura Ace 9 speed bar con shifter.  Mount with Paul thumbies 
for a really good shifting set up.  Can also index 9 speeds... very well.  
Which Microshift... they're indexing is off.  You have to overshift and 
correct back. That's just bad engineering.  It's a feature on every 
Microshift thumbie or bar con I've used.  Can you get used to it? Yes.  
Should you have to? No.

-James / Analog Cycles 

On Friday, April 10, 2020 at 3:17:49 PM UTC-4, Joe Bernard wrote:
>
> They never worked well, the clicks in friction were too indexy. The 
> 9-spedd Microshifts Riv mounts backwards in friction on Clems now are much 
> better. 

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[RBW] Re: Analog Cycles: Free Tubeless Clinic on Instagram Live

2020-04-15 Thread James / Analog Cycles
Hey my real time ability to reply to threads has been fixed...

We will eventually post a video on our site.  Instagram is a tool, just 
like this forum.  They're the same, really, and if you are ok with one... 
the other is also valid.  

We currently have a bunch of info on our site about tubeless set up, 
component selection, tubeless repair.  If you are not into videos or moving 
images (we all know Magic Lantern shows are the only true art form, movies 
are passe), you should go read that stuff, which takes the form of text and 
static images.  

Here are those links: 

Set up guide: 
https://www.analogcycles.com/true-facts-components/analogs-tubeless-set-up-guide/
parts selection: https://www.analogcycles.com/tubeless-component-selection/
tubeless maintenance: 
https://www.analogcycles.com/true-facts-components/tubeless-maintainence-repairs/

-James who doesn't have running water, a flush toilet, lives in a tent, has 
an off the grid bike shop, uses only wood for heat but still believes in 
Instagram Johnson




On Monday, April 13, 2020 at 4:59:03 PM UTC-4, Bicycle Belle Ding Ding! 
wrote:
>
> ***Posted on behalf of James and Candice, whose posts are delayed on the 
> List*** 
>
> Analog Cycles, a Rivendell dealer out of rural Vermont has mounted 500 
> tubeless tires and counting. They have honed their technique and are 
> willing to share their tips on all things tubeless. James and Candice are 
> offering us a FREE tubeless clinic. They will cover tubeless mounting, 
> maintenance, and flat-fixing via an Instagram Live session. You will be 
> able to ask your questions via text during the video and get your answers, 
> straight from Analog. 
>
> If you’ve been considering going tubeless or if you have just wanted to 
> know how it all works, join us Wednesday, April 15 at 5 pm EASTERN time. 
> Most folks are working from home, so hope those from other time zones can 
> hop on. Follow Analog Cycles on Instagram and look for them to go live 4.15 
> at 5pm EST. 
>
> Thanks so much, James and Candice - I can’t wait to tune in. 
>
>

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[RBW] Re: 62cm MIT Atlantis photos anywhere?

2020-04-15 Thread James / Analog Cycles
Profile shot of one we built 2 winters ago:  
https://www.instagram.com/p/BqUux6cFLa1/

-james / analog cycles / tangelfoot cycles / fifth season canvas / discord 
components

On Wednesday, April 15, 2020 at 8:10:11 AM UTC-4, scott minor wrote:
>
> Does anyone have a photo they can post?  I can't detect one on the Riv 
> site or google images and curious what a 62 actually looks like.  Seems 
> like all the arch tube examples on the net are 59's.  There are 2 different 
> arch tube side profile shots on the current Riv Atlantis page but they 
> appear to be 2 different pictures of the same sized frame.  A full build 
> picture would be ideal but frameset pic is better than nothing.  
>
> thanks!  
>

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[RBW] Re: Why I went Tubeless

2020-04-15 Thread James / Analog Cycles
Thanks Tim!  Stoked to be doing the clinic.  We also have a huge tubeless 
tutorial on our site, with trouble shooting stuff, a pros and cons write 
up, and all of the bits you need to get started, except an air compressor.  

Here's those links:

Set up guide: 
https://www.analogcycles.com/true-facts-components/analogs-tubeless-set-up-guide/

Component selection:  
https://www.analogcycles.com/tubeless-component-selection/

Maintenance and repairs:  
https://www.analogcycles.com/true-facts-components/tubeless-maintainence-repairs/

Not all tubeless stuff is created equally.  We've tried and tested a bunch 
of rims, tapes, tires, sealants, valve stems, and honed in on what is BS 
and what works.  There's a reason you don't see certain makers listed in 
our articles.  It's because someone else does a better job of making X or Y.

-James

On Wednesday, April 15, 2020 at 8:49:23 AM UTC-4, Tim Bantham wrote:
>
> There's been some discussion on the board lately about the pros and cons 
> of tubeless tires. I am a tubeless believer but I wasn't always that way. I 
> wanted to share my experiences as a way of adding some perspective to those 
> considering giving it a go. Analog cycles is doing an Instagram live on 
> tubeless tonight at 5:00 PM ET. You should watch it if you are remotely 
> interested. Much of my current tubeless knowledge was gained by talking 
> with James and Candice. Before I met the good folks at Analog I had quite a 
> bit of experience with tubeless setups. Some good and some not so good. 
>
> The first thing I'll make clear is that you can continue to run tubes in 
> your tires and be perfectly happy for the remainder of your biking life. 
> Nothing wrong with that. Tubeless is not going to rock your world. However, 
> there are many benefits to setting your tires up tubeless. I'd like to 
> share those with you based on my own experiences. 
>
> You can run low pressure without fear of getting a pinch flat. If you are 
> a Riv fan you already know the benefit of soft tires. Subtle ride quality 
> with lots of cush to absorb the bumps. To me this is worth it alone but 
> there are other benefits. 
>
> Much easier to fix a flat tire. True confession I rarely get a flat tire 
> with tubeless. If you get a small puncture sometimes just riding the tire 
> allows sealant to get into the hole and seal the tire. If it doesn't seal 
> you have to plug the hole. Let's say you run over a nail. You can fix the 
> flat without removing the wheel. Murphy's law is that 75% of your flats 
> will be on the rear tire.With a tube you have to take the rear wheel off in 
> the field. No big deal right? I know... I've done it tons of times. That 
> said, if I can avoid doing so why wouldn't I? With tubeless you can plug 
> the hole without removing the wheel from the bike. That to me that is a 
> significant benefit. Of course there remains the possibility that you can 
> get a gash in the sidewall. That happens but if you are prepared with 
> gorilla tape and gorilla glue you can fix that without removing the wheel 
> from the bike as well. 
>
> Final tips: 
>
>- Get the Dynapill made by Dynaplug for your tubeless repairs. 
>- Still carry a tube with you. A tube could always be installed as a 
>last resort but it should be rare. 
>- Invest in a good air compressor. An air compressor is handy! The 
>pumps that are sold claiming to seat tubeless tires don't work as claimed. 
>I know because I own one. 
>- Don't try to seat tubeless with a regular bicycle pump. Doesn't work 
>and not worth the frustration. See above. 
>- Use Orange Seal Endurance Sealant. Best sealant on the market. Blows 
>away anything else I've ever tried. 
>- The tubeless tape that Analog sells is fantastic! Easy to work with, 
>has the right amount of stretch. 
>- Don't try to set up any old rim/tire combo tubeless. Look for rims 
>that are advertised as tubeless. I have Velocity Cliffhangers and Quills 
> on 
>my bikes. Both set up easily.  
>- Buy a tubeless ready tire. 
>- Don't worry about sealant randomly oozing out of your tire. Doesn't 
>happen if you set everything up correctly.
>- Use a regular bicycle pump to maintain air in your tires after 
>successful set up. 
>- Refill with fresh sealant every six months.
>- Buy the Park Tools valve core remover to make adding fresh sealant 
>easier. 
>
> Hit me up with any questions. Do watch the tubeless set up live show 
> tonight on Instagram and go to Analogs website for tubeless set up tips. 
>
> Tim
>
>
>
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Another Clem fender conundrum

2020-04-15 Thread James / Analog Cycles
If you want to support a bike shop instead of a hardware store (not that we 
don't like hardware stores!), Analog sells spacers and stainless bolts in 
all sorts of lengths for this kinda application.  Aluminum spacers are 
gunna be way better than a cork, which is too compressible / springy for 
rough riding.  

Spacers:  https://www.analogcycles.com/product/alloy-bolt-spacers-m5-m6/
Bolts: https://www.analogcycles.com/product/m5-m6-stainless-bolts/

-James 

On Tuesday, April 14, 2020 at 12:46:51 AM UTC-4, Jim Bronson wrote:
>
> Well after 3 years, I decided to finally put the fenders on that I had 
> purchased with the bike.  There was a drenching on a rather cold day (for 
> Texas in March) a few weeks back, and I can't have that road grime all over 
> me again.
>
> Thoughts of, oh why oh why didn't I just pay the $40 or whatever it was 
> to have Rivendell put them on before shipping the bike? Come to mind at 
> times like these.
>
> So anyway the front fender went pretty well but the back fender was a 
> train wreck/dumpster fire (pick one).  The fender line is a disaster.  
> There must be at least three inches between the fender and the tire near 
> the seat stay.  I put the bike in the stand and took the fender back off.
>
> I need a long bolt and something like a wine cork to create some shim 
> space there.  I have seen these done before on other bikes
>
> Does anyone have suggestions?  I would prefer to order the bolt online.  I 
> have lots of wine corks and other assorted washers lying around.
>
> Pics at https://photos.app.goo.gl/LTC6BnG1T9WXK2jXA of the front and rear.
>
> Jim
> Leander, TX
>
>
>
>
> -- 
> --
> signature goes here
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Lighten Up: Clem Edition

2020-04-13 Thread James / Analog Cycles
I don't know if there is any interest in this, but I can host a tubeless 
set up and repair video clinic if folks are interested.  Tubeless is so 
much easier to deal with than tubes once you know how to do it, but I hear 
again and again on this list that folks are scared to try it.  You can fix 
a tubeless flat without taking the wheel off the bike.  It gets no easier 
than that.  Email me if you are interested, all this forum back and forth 
is hard to keep up with.  james at analogcycles dot com

On Friday, April 10, 2020 at 11:47:04 AM UTC-4, Bicycle Belle Ding Ding! 
wrote:
>
> I’m new to tubeless, but today I signed off with James at Analog to try it 
> out. Get ready to see my Clem all jazzed up with Analog’s light wheels and 
> vivid color schemes. It will be wild!
>
>
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Apr 10, 2020, at 7:42 AM, kim young > 
> wrote:
>
> 
> Thank you for this conversation.
>
> Tube or tubeless that has been my question!
> (IMHO)
> there’s gonna be infrastructure one way or the other. w tubeless for me i 
> was intimidated due to the learning curve. 
>
> But I do like learning and once I got through some of that, tubeless isn’t 
> any more complicated than learning how to patch, etc. It’s just different. 
> I have bikes running both. 
>
> The thing with tubeless is that IF I get a flat I feel like it’s gonna be 
> more trouble (maybe due to inexperience. )
> Yet I don’t get flats with tubeless- (I know it can happen, just that I 
> haven’t yet in a year or more ).
> I have lost a lot of air a few times, so that my tubeless go squishy. (I 
> learned the old frame pump won’t  inflate enough. Now I have a lezyne pump 
> I bring w.)
>
> With the tube tires and where I ride, I am flat or slowly leaking - at 
> least once a month.  So there’s gonna be a flat, but I know how to fix it. 
> It’s easier and I‘m ready. I just have to do so way more often. What i have 
> to be prepped for with tubes is the probability that I need to be. 
>
> There’s hardly ever flats with tubeless - so it’s the differential in the 
> maintenance reality of the two systems that I think about. 
>
> (W tubeless I fill up w stans no-flow whenever the tubeless won’t hold 
> their air overnight. I have the m12 makita portable mini compressor. It’s 
> smaller than a 6pack. I use it for the cars and wheelbarrow tires too.
> But I don’t Re-fill my tubeless that much more often than my tube tires. )
>
>
>
> kim in az
>
> On Thu, Apr 9, 2020 at 10:43 AM Joe Bernard  > wrote:
>
>> See Ken, this is where I just can't get into tubeless. I've owned a 
>> couple bikes that cake to me that way, which was dandy because they were 
>> already seated and pumped up; but then I needed sealant, a tool to unscrew 
>> the valve to add sealant, and tire plugs. Ok so what do I take as tire 
>> repair stuff? Whelp, I guess I could take all this in case I need it, plus 
>> a tube and tire levers if the trick to getting home after a puncture is to 
>> pop a tube in there. Then when it's time to seat a tire I'm going to need a 
>> machine because my very good Topeak floor pump isn't good enough, or I'm 
>> not good enough at pumping. 
>>
>> So I get the advantages in ride, lightness and puncture resistance of 
>> tubeless, but for a Luddite like me who does all his own work all I see is 
>> more stuff and more work. I'm not into it. 
>>
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[RBW] Re: Lighten Up: Clem Edition

2020-04-10 Thread James / Analog Cycles
Some clarity might be in order.

Joe's Simworks tires were not tubeless tires.  I know cause I mounted 
them.  They work for tubeless, but the tolerances are not as tight, so they 
leak air more.  

I've left many tubeless tires fallow all winter and come back to very 
minimal pressure but an intact tire seal.  

Pumping a tubeless tire is no different than pumping a normal tire.  If you 
can do one you can do the other. 

Schmidt hubs, besides the benefits mentioned, also have better bearings 
(50k mile warranty), a stiffer and stronger axle, thicker flanges, counter 
sunk spoke holes.  They also CAN have a superior wire to hub connection in 
the form of a Coaxial adapter.  SP hubs are fine, but if you meet any of 
the following criteria, consider Schmidt:  Heavy rider, heavy loads, bad 
roads, big miles, bad weather...Sure looks count too.  But there are 
practical advantages to a Schmidt hub that are not about finish.   

Having sold both Kasai and SP hubs, I'd say quality seems similar, but the 
Kasai hub body looks quite different in person.  Maybe the guts are the 
same.  

-James / Analog Cycles / Tanglefoot Cycles / Discord Components / Fifth 
Season Canvas.  


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Re: [RBW] Re: Lighten Up: Clem Edition

2020-04-08 Thread James / Analog Cycles
A Soma Mixte with light wheels and a 1x drivetrain probably fits the bill.  
Happy to help with one if needed.

Best, james

On Wednesday, April 8, 2020 at 1:12:57 PM UTC-4, Bicycle Belle Ding Ding! 
wrote:
>
> I hope Rivendell is reading some of these threads and that they will 
> design bikes that are more accessible to the female of the species. Like 
> the Susie. Typically we women don’t have the upper body strength of men, 
> and we tend to be lighter. So, when people say “make the bike lighter, 
> focus on the engine” it doesn’t do me any good. 
>
> Actually, this came up just yesterday. The boys have surrogate 
> grandparents here in Vegas. They are a lovely couple in their mid-70s who 
> don’t have grandchildren and so have claimed my boys. This couple is active 
> and they like to ride their bikes together. Yesterday the wife called me 
> and she asked me where I got my bike and how did I find that company? She 
> wants to get her bars up higher and she wants a lighter bike. I was so 
> deflated because there is not one Riv I could recommend to her - she is 
> maybe 5’2” and 105 pounds. I cannot see her on a Clem L or a Cheviot 
> because they are just too unwieldy. She doesn’t want a diamond frame, so 
> the Roadini is out. She is not going to spend $6k on a custom. They take 
> their bikes on their bike rack and we have really steep hills here and I 
> just know the Clem/Cheviot are not the right choice for her. I love 
> Rivendell best of all bikes in existence but I cannot recommend a Rivendell 
> to her.
>
> I’d like to see a little more diversity in the Riv lineup so that it would 
> be more inclusive. I know who the customer base is and that I’m in the 
> minority, and that’s fine, but there are more people like me and Roberta 
> and Melanie and Ann now, and it would be nice to buy Rivs that we don’t 
> have to beat into submission to accommodate our female-ness. 
>
> I hope that didn’t come off as harsh. I don’t mean it to be. I really want 
> Rivendell to do well; I love that company. I’d like to see it grow.
> Leah
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
> On Apr 8, 2020, at 9:05 AM, Melanie > 
> wrote:
>
> 
> James and Roberta - what lighter 650B wheels are you recommending?
>
> On Wednesday, April 8, 2020 at 12:02:00 AM UTC-4, Bicycle Belle Ding Ding! 
> wrote:
>>
>> I’m not fully committing to this yet. Roberta and I get into trouble 
>> because we talk on Marco Polo and then we get ideas and then we like each 
>> other’s ideas and the next thing we know our wallets are on fire. 
>>
>> So, I am ordering a Cheviot, and I am spending extra $ to build it with 
>> light parts. But that bike is a long way off, months, in fact. Meanwhile, 
>> Roberta is giving her beloved Appaloosa a makeover and it is getting lots 
>> of new parts and she’s having all the fun. And since we’re #Rivsisters and 
>> I’m like that little sister who wants what her sister has, I want to 
>> explore what it would take to lighten up my Clem L, which is my only bike 
>> at present, and which is quite heavy. You’ll have heard me mention this in 
>> Joe’s What Is A Cheviot thread. If my Clem could lose a little weight it 
>> would be the most perfect bike anyone could dream up. A Susie version of 
>> Clems would be just so ideal - someone should tell Riv. 
>>
>> Anyway, if I got aluminum Bosco bars, and new wheels (don’t ask me what 
>> kind, how would I know?) would this make my bike feel considerably lighter? 
>> I don’t think I can give up my front derailleur because I use it for Killer 
>> Hill. And what if I wanted to add dyno while I was at it? Would that negate 
>> my weight savings? Also, I’m keeping my racks; I can’t part with those. 
>> Maybe I’m not the best candidate for this... 
>>
>> Has anyone built a Clem up with lighter parts? Does it make a big 
>> difference? As in, is it worth the money? 
>>
>> Thanks! 
>> Leah
>
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[RBW] Re: Lighten Up: Clem Edition

2020-04-08 Thread James / Analog Cycles
Melanie, we don't just recommend wheels randomly, we build quotes based on 
rider weight, bike style, gear weight, where the riding is taking place, 
and what kind of weather it will be ridden in.   Roberta's wheelset might 
not be suitable to you, and visa versa.  Feel free to email me if you have 
any other questions!  
-James   

On Wednesday, April 8, 2020 at 12:02:00 AM UTC-4, Bicycle Belle Ding Ding! 
wrote:
>
> I’m not fully committing to this yet. Roberta and I get into trouble 
> because we talk on Marco Polo and then we get ideas and then we like each 
> other’s ideas and the next thing we know our wallets are on fire. 
>
> So, I am ordering a Cheviot, and I am spending extra $ to build it with 
> light parts. But that bike is a long way off, months, in fact. Meanwhile, 
> Roberta is giving her beloved Appaloosa a makeover and it is getting lots 
> of new parts and she’s having all the fun. And since we’re #Rivsisters and 
> I’m like that little sister who wants what her sister has, I want to 
> explore what it would take to lighten up my Clem L, which is my only bike 
> at present, and which is quite heavy. You’ll have heard me mention this in 
> Joe’s What Is A Cheviot thread. If my Clem could lose a little weight it 
> would be the most perfect bike anyone could dream up. A Susie version of 
> Clems would be just so ideal - someone should tell Riv. 
>
> Anyway, if I got aluminum Bosco bars, and new wheels (don’t ask me what 
> kind, how would I know?) would this make my bike feel considerably lighter? 
> I don’t think I can give up my front derailleur because I use it for Killer 
> Hill. And what if I wanted to add dyno while I was at it? Would that negate 
> my weight savings? Also, I’m keeping my racks; I can’t part with those. 
> Maybe I’m not the best candidate for this... 
>
> Has anyone built a Clem up with lighter parts? Does it make a big 
> difference? As in, is it worth the money? 
>
> Thanks! 
> Leah

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[RBW] Re: Lighten Up: Clem Edition

2020-04-08 Thread James / Analog Cycles
The wheels we're building and tire change on Roberta's bike alone save 
3lbs.  The 1x conversion will save even more.  I told her to ditch her 
kickstand, because you can lean your bike or use a curb / pedal kickstand 
easily.   The bike will never be light, but lighter wheels will make it 
feel very light, and if we save 5 lbs, she can heft it easier onto the 
train.   If I could convince her to go tubeless, we'd save another 200+ 
grams...  

-James / Analog Cycles / Get Enlightened.  

On Wednesday, April 8, 2020 at 12:02:00 AM UTC-4, Bicycle Belle Ding Ding! 
wrote:
>
> I’m not fully committing to this yet. Roberta and I get into trouble 
> because we talk on Marco Polo and then we get ideas and then we like each 
> other’s ideas and the next thing we know our wallets are on fire. 
>
>  

> So, I am ordering a Cheviot, and I am spending extra $ to build it with 
> light parts. But that bike is a long way off, months, in fact. Meanwhile, 
> Roberta is giving her beloved Appaloosa a makeover and it is getting lots 
> of new parts and she’s having all the fun. And since we’re #Rivsisters and 
> I’m like that little sister who wants what her sister has, I want to 
> explore what it would take to lighten up my Clem L, which is my only bike 
> at present, and which is quite heavy. You’ll have heard me mention this in 
> Joe’s What Is A Cheviot thread. If my Clem could lose a little weight it 
> would be the most perfect bike anyone could dream up. A Susie version of 
> Clems would be just so ideal - someone should tell Riv. 
>
> Anyway, if I got aluminum Bosco bars, and new wheels (don’t ask me what 
> kind, how would I know?) would this make my bike feel considerably lighter? 
> I don’t think I can give up my front derailleur because I use it for Killer 
> Hill. And what if I wanted to add dyno while I was at it? Would that negate 
> my weight savings? Also, I’m keeping my racks; I can’t part with those. 
> Maybe I’m not the best candidate for this... 
>
> Has anyone built a Clem up with lighter parts? Does it make a big 
> difference? As in, is it worth the money? 
>
> Thanks! 
> Leah

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[RBW] Re: My Clem Smith JR. Build revealed!

2020-03-19 Thread James / Analog Cycles
Tim it looks super good!  Nice work.  Can't wait to help ya get it muddy.  

-James / analog cycles / tanglefoot cycles / discord components / fifth 
season canvas

On Wednesday, March 18, 2020 at 7:25:19 PM UTC-4, Tim Bantham wrote:
>
> Hey Bunch, I am excited to share my Clem Smith build with you all. This is 
> my third Rivendell which will complement my Sam Hillborne and a Joe 
> Appaloosa. My Sam is my go-to for all kinds of riding where my Appaloosa 
> serves as my traditional touring bike with racks and fenders.  The vision 
> for the Clem was to have it serve as an analog mountain bike as well as a 
> capable dirt tourer. 
>
>
> The build is modern and non-traditional in the Riv sense. This was not my 
> original plan but it sort of morphed into that. My first purchase for the 
> bike after the frame was a Son Widebody dynohub that I purchased here from 
> a fellow list member. The hub was black so I decided that I would make all 
> of the components black with a touch of gold. I had the Nitto R10 ceramic 
> coded in matte black along with the King cages, seatpost and lamp holder. 
> My good friends Candice and James at Analog cycles helped me with the 
> parts. As a result, a touch of Analog’s style and influence is evident in 
> the build. I also built the wheels myself. This was my first time building 
> wheels from start to finish. I want to thank Bryan from Utility Bicycles in 
> Kingston, NY for coaching me through that. I am super happy with how the 
> bike came out and especially proud because I did all of the work myself. 
> Not bad for a careerist with a desk job! 
>
>
> Link to a shared photo album below. For the true bike nerds among us I am 
> including the build details as well. 
>
> ·  
>
>  
>
> Clem Build Photos <https://photos.app.goo.gl/8kQgRNGwzGpqSb33A>
>
>  
>
>  
>
>  ·   59 Clem H Frameset
>
> ·   Velocity Cliffhangers
>
> ·   White Industries MI5 Rear Hub
>
> ·   Son Widebody Dynohub
>
> ·   White Industries ENO crankset
>
> ·   White Industries 32 Tooth Single Ring
>
> ·   Connex 11 speed chain
>
> ·   Spank Pedals
>
> ·   Sunrace 11x50 rear cassette
>
> ·   SRAM Rival 1X rear derailleur
>
> ·   Paul Motolite brakes
>
> ·   Paul Love Levers
>
> ·   Paul Thumbies with Shimano DA shifter (friction)
>
> ·   Schmidt Edulux II headlight
>
> ·   Nitto R-10 Rear Rack
>
> ·   Brooks B17 Saddle
>
> ·   Nitto R83 seatpost
>
> ·   Nitto/Crust 31.8 stem
>
> ·   Jones H Bar
>
> ·   Oury Grips
>
> ·   Tanglefoot Peruvian Tape
>
> ·   Schwalbe Rocket Rons 2.25 
>
> ·   Swift Zeitgeist saddle bag
>
>  
>
>  
>

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[RBW] Re: Widest wide range double chainring setup? How wide is too wide?

2020-03-13 Thread James / Analog Cycles
We've run 46/20 with a 12-36 out back with fine success.  Middleburn lets 
you run a 110 big ring, no middle ring and 58 bcd granny gear for said 
combo.  Friction shifts fine with TA rings.  The resulting gear range is 
super wide.  690% gear range.  

-James / Analog Cycles / Tanglefoot Cycles / Fifth Season Canvas / Discord 
Components

On Friday, March 5, 2010 at 5:38:42 PM UTC-5, Bill Lindsay wrote:
>
> I'm running Ritchey/Sugino cranks on my Hillborne and another set
> waiting for me to pay off my Bombadil.  These are 94/58mm bolt circle
> cranks.  I love them and would but 5 more sets in 172.5 if I could.
> They both came with 22/32/42 chainrings.  I am running the Hilborne
> right now as a wider range triple:  22/34/46.  The cranks that are
> going on to the Bombadil were last used as a double on a cyclocross
> bike and worked great with a 30/44 with Campy ergo brifters.  I'm
> wondering what's the biggest jump on a double you've run.  Kevens
> dream Bomba has a 24/40, for 16t of jump.  34/50 is standard on
> compact road cranks nowadays.  I'm thinking of trying a 46/29 on these
> Ritchey arms.  I've never run TA or TA-style cranks that I think allow
> even more flexibility.  Has anyone ever run a 20+ tooth jump between
> two chainrings?
>

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[RBW] Re: Drop bar on MIT Atlantis?

2020-03-11 Thread James / Analog Cycles
FWIW, stems are only a part of steering and handling.  Bar shape and sweep 
have as much if not more to do with handling, as well as trail, fork 
offset, hta, tires, tire pressure and stiffness.  Any change on a bike will 
require getting used to the change.  As a long time fitter, I have found 
that some people, even though they claim they only ride this or that angle 
or offset or stem length, when put in a blind test scenario, choose the 
opposite of what they claim to be the magic number.  I've had others, with 
the same blind testing, choose their old, but very bad, saddle position out 
of a slew of better options.  Saddles way to high or low.  People adapt.  
When you change your hands from the drops to the hoods to the tops of a 
bar, the steering leverage points drastically change, but no one freaks out 
about the change in handling.  Going from your hoods to the bar cons on a 
set of noodle bars is like going from a 100mm stem to a 0mm in a second.  
Yet the bike handles fine, through out the change.  We instantly adapt.  No 
thought given.  The bike is already moving, already in gyroscopic balance.  

There are cases where people need 0mm offset seatposts, but statistically, 
those are in the minority.  Using the blind test fitting method that the 
Guru machine employs, I've sold very few 0mm posts compared to the amount 
of 20mm posts I've installed.  This isn't a coincidence, it's born out by a 
century plus of bike fit knowledge that didn't just get pulled from thin 
air, it was decided on by trial and error.  Look at the change in safety 
bike geo from 1880 to 1915.  By 1915 they had figured it out, and the 
number has not changed for all of those years, plus or minus a degree.  

All that said, if you are riding in a position that you KNOW isn't hurting 
you, keep riding, don't let me tell ya how to be happy on your bike.

-James




On Wednesday, February 26, 2020 at 7:00:13 AM UTC-5, John G. wrote:
>
> I have a bunch of parts in need of a 700c frame, so I’ve been pondering my 
> next build. I miss my old Atlantis, though I traded it for my Roadeo, which 
> I love. I’m thinking about getting a MIT Atlantis, but the reach on the MIT 
> model seems longer than the older iterations. Albatrosses aren’t for me—I 
> get wrist pain on longer rides. Has anyone set up their MIT Atlantis with 
> drops or Albastaches? Are they really more intended for bars like the 
> Albastache?

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[RBW] Re: FS: Analog Cycles Mud Season Sale: Lots of Riv stuff, good tires, rims, Nitto, etc

2020-03-08 Thread James / Analog Cycles
Should have said: email me if ya see something!  james (at) analogcycles 
(dot) com

On Sunday, March 8, 2020 at 1:06:53 PM UTC-4, James / Analog Cycles wrote:
>
> We're clearing out used, new and demo stuff.  Prices are final and don't 
> include shipping.  Bar tape, bottle cages, tires, racks, framesets from RIv 
> and Crust and Kona, brakes, demo bikes, loads of drop bars, headsets, 
> seatposts, shifters.   
>
> Here's the current list:  
> https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1UZ8BVnew4B9L50QUCoVuIiAL0zzElQy1Kn0mNDzSuWo/edit?usp=sharing
>
>
>

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[RBW] FS: Analog Cycles Mud Season Sale: Lots of Riv stuff, good tires, rims, Nitto, etc

2020-03-08 Thread James / Analog Cycles
We're clearing out used, new and demo stuff.  Prices are final and don't 
include shipping.  Bar tape, bottle cages, tires, racks, framesets from RIv 
and Crust and Kona, brakes, demo bikes, loads of drop bars, headsets, 
seatposts, shifters.   

Here's the current list:  
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1UZ8BVnew4B9L50QUCoVuIiAL0zzElQy1Kn0mNDzSuWo/edit?usp=sharing


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[RBW] Re: Drop bar on MIT Atlantis?

2020-03-04 Thread James / Analog Cycles
eight 
   shift also increases the likelihood of an endo (flying over your handlebars 
   when the going gets steep or sketchy). This position disregards years of 
   proven results for the purpose of fat tire / short stay marketing piffle 
   and misinformed claims of increased power with no regard for reduced 
   mechanical advantage. Steep seat angles work fine on Time Trial/Tri bikes, 
   because the bars are incredibly low. This combo, low bars, steep seat 
   angle, allows you to maintain the relationship between your torso and legs 
   that makes a normal seat angle work so well.  If you only change one of 
   these things, IE the seat angle, and not the other, the system falls out of 
   wack.  No advertising or catalog is gunna point these negative issues 
   out.  They are not selling features. Nor is the knee damage riders will 
   suffer from an increasingly aggressive pedaling position, or the higher 
   center of gravity resulting from moving forward and up.  As the saddle 
   moves forward, it must also be raised to maintain consistent leg length. 
   2. 
   
   Your saddle needs to be at the right height and set back for long term 
   comfortable riding. You adjust reach with a stem, as that does not 
   negatively impact your best saddle position. 
   3. 
   
   Never move a saddle toward it's extremes on the rails. I've seen far too 
   many rails break from this. Saddles, esp Brooks, need to be centered within 
   a few mm on the seatpost clamp.
   4. 
   
   All of this is why we reinvented (from the early 1900's) the super short 
   (w)Right stem, which finally will be available again in about 2-3 weeks. 
   They are at the cerakoter now. 225mm quill length, the same as a Technomic 
   Tallux, because it uses a Technomic bolt and wedge. We'll have 30mm and 0mm 
   extensions, in clear gloss cerakote or gloss black cerakote, which is 
   harder and thinner and longer lasting than a powder coat. In a month, we'll 
   have these in 50 and 70mm as well. Analog and The Psychic Derailleur will 
   stock them. 31.8mm clamp only for now, but that's not a bad thing, as most 
   good bars these days only come in 31.8. For whatever it's worth, the stem 
   is entirely US sourced, from the materials to the guy brazing them (Alex 
   Meade) to the coating. 4 bolt faceplate. 
   5. 
   
   Combining a short reach stem and shorter reach bars is a valid fit fix, 
   and, when you are using a steel stem with 31.8 clamp, you are also 
   stiffening up bar area, which means better tracking, especially on rough 
   terrain. 
   6. 
   
   Every Riv model can be converted to a comfortable drop bar set up 
   without a 0mm seatpost. You just need the right bars and stem. I've done it 
   to Clems, Joe's, lots of Atlantises. Works great, with the right tools. 
   
-james / Analog Cycles / Tanglefoot Cycles / Discord Components / Fifth 
Season Canvas

On Wednesday, February 26, 2020 at 7:00:13 AM UTC-5, John G. wrote:
>
> I have a bunch of parts in need of a 700c frame, so I’ve been pondering my 
> next build. I miss my old Atlantis, though I traded it for my Roadeo, which 
> I love. I’m thinking about getting a MIT Atlantis, but the reach on the MIT 
> model seems longer than the older iterations. Albatrosses aren’t for me—I 
> get wrist pain on longer rides. Has anyone set up their MIT Atlantis with 
> drops or Albastaches? Are they really more intended for bars like the 
> Albastache?

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[RBW] Re: Regarding Long Chains

2020-03-04 Thread James / Analog Cycles
tooting my own horn here, but if you want a nice Connex chain, we sell 
them, with two quick links and extra lengths of chain, in every size and 
type, 9, 10 and 11 speed.   It's an option on our connex chain product 
page.  We call it the XL chain.  Often needed for certain 1x gearing set 
ups as well. So if you say, want a 9 speed stainless chain for your clem, 
we have it.  Connex chains last significantly longer than SRAM, KMC and 
Shimano chains, if you are into that kinda thing.  Chains rarely fail at 
the quick link.  You don't want two right next to each other, so you end up 
trimming the base chain a bit, so the quick links end up at least 6 links 
away.  Better shifting if nothing else.  

James, Analog Cycles, Riv Dealer o' Vermont



On Sunday, March 1, 2020 at 11:24:15 AM UTC-5, Bill Lindsay wrote:
>
>
> If you have a long chainstay bike like a MIT Atlantis or a Clem, etc, 
> you'll need a chain longer than a regular 116 link chain.  There are a few 
> ways to get this done:
>
> 1. Some people like me stock up on chains, and when they need a long one 
> they splice two together, and go.  The massive excess on chain #2 becomes 
> the next donor for the next time I need a chain.  I get roughly 4 long 
> chains out of 5 real chains.   
>
> 2. Some people buy two chains, make one long chain, and discard or mislay 
> the excess.  Some of those people complain about how Rivendells are twice 
> as expensive to maintain, or point out how it is crazy that Grant shouldn't 
> designs bikes with long chainstays in the first place.  
>
> 3. Rivendell has a long chain they can sell you 
> https://www.rivbike.com/collections/chains/products/long-chain but it's 
> Out of Stock
>
> I'm posting this to explain how that long chain thing works.  They have a 
> huge continuous roll of chain.  To get chains "In Stock" somebody just 
> needs to put aside the time to cut 20 lengths off the roll, and put them in 
> ziploc bags.  I went in yesterday, needing a chain for my MIT Atlantis.  
> Will walked me back there to the roll, cut off a length and tossed it in 
> the bag and sold it to me.  He said "man, I need to make some of these and 
> put them up on the site".  As he was making mine, Vince walked by and said 
> "Oh, good, you're making long chains for the site!"  
>
> So if you need a long 9-speed chain, Riv can definitely sell you one.  If 
> it's not in stock, call them up and say "Make 10 and sell me one".  They'll 
> make it happen for you.  
>
> Bill Lindsay
> El Cerrito, CA
>
>
> '
>  
>
> Rivendell Bicycle Works has a part number for a long chain:  
> https://www.rivbike.com/collections/chains/products/long-chain
>

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Re: [RBW] Pink'd out Atlantis Build

2019-12-27 Thread James / Analog Cycles
I love crackle paint, black chrome, fades, just spare me the flame paint 
jobs!



On Friday, December 13, 2019 at 1:33:47 PM UTC-5, John McClusky wrote:
>
> Wow!  Wish I’d had that when I was racing mountain bikes back in ‘87. 
>  Beautiful job, James. 
>
> John (fondly remembering crackle paint and Bell V1 helmets)

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[RBW] Re: Pink'd out Atlantis Build

2019-12-27 Thread James / Analog Cycles
ha!  yes!  

On Friday, December 13, 2019 at 12:22:03 PM UTC-5, Joe Bernard wrote:
>
> Crockett & Tubbs bike! 

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Re: [RBW] Pink'd out Atlantis Build

2019-12-27 Thread James / Analog Cycles
Hi Steve, the tape is a pretty light pink.  It's not Newbaums.  Considering 
the wrap is only a few days old, I don't think it's starting to go.  The 
glitter on the tape necessitated a number of shellac coats already.  
-james

On Friday, December 13, 2019 at 11:47:29 AM UTC-5, Steve Palincsar wrote:
>
> Those handlebars aren't going to stay pink very long.  In fact, they've 
> already started to go.  Perhaps one or two coats of clear varnish would 
> keep the dirt transfer off without altering the color or compromising the 
> feel of the bar wrap?
> On 12/13/19 9:27 AM, James / Analog Cycles wrote:
>
> We recently finished work on this intense Atlantis.  Lots of pink cerakote 
> accents, per the customer's request.  I'd wager it's one of the first pink 
> Nitto bottle cages ever.  Partial build list: 
> Cliffhanger rims, tubeless tape, Rene Herse tires set up tubeless.  Paul 
> Motolites, polished.  S83 seatpost, cerakoted.  Custom Leather hoods from 
> Herringwear, who also makes our Fifth Season canvas bags.  
> Prototype Discord 30mm stem.  Spank bars.  Customized cloth bar tape.  
>
> It might not be for everyone, but it's unique!  Easy to spot your bike at 
> the Riv Rally.  -james / analog cycles vermont
>
> [image: DSC05345 (1).JPG]
>
> [image: DSC05351.JPG]
>
> [image: DSC05342.JPG]
>
> [image: DSC05341.JPG]
>
> [image: DSC05338.JPG]
>
> [image: DSC05329.JPG]
>
> [image: DSC05325.JPG]
>
> [image: DSC05307.JPG]
>
> [image: DSC05306.JPG]
>
> [image: DSC05293.JPG]
>
> [image: DSC05291.JPG]
>
> [image: DSC05283.JPG]
>
>
>
> -- 
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
> "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
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> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/6cd42ed8-ff6f-4c2b-8a25-4d24daa9e9d3%40googlegroups.com
>  
> <https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/6cd42ed8-ff6f-4c2b-8a25-4d24daa9e9d3%40googlegroups.com?utm_medium=email_source=footer>
> .
>
> -- 
> Steve Palincsar
> Alexandria, Virginia 
> USA
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Silver2 shifters have arrived!

2019-12-06 Thread James / Analog Cycles
Do these have the same exact ratchet as the previous silver shifters?

On Wednesday, November 27, 2019 at 10:45:53 PM UTC-5, dougP wrote:
>
> The long awaited Silver 2 shifters have arrived, just in time for the 
> holidays:  
>
> https://www.rivbike.com/collections/shifting/products/kjalgjoihjga44451
>
> The mounts for upright bars are delayed a bit but the shifters also work 
> as bar ends & down tubes.  Treat yourself to something nice; maybe buy a 
> spare pair "just in case".  Shifters sold individually so you can do all 
> sorts of crazy things.  See the website for which-goes-where.  
>
> dougP
>

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[RBW] Re: Thin Gripster alternatives?

2019-12-06 Thread James / Analog Cycles
+1 on Joe's recommendation.  And not just cause I ride those pedals and own 
that shop.  Gripsters are tiny, and have tiny bearings.  Bigger pedals have 
better support.  Better pedals have smarter traction pins that can be 
removed if the head is damaged.  Better pedals have more bearings, and 
don't need anything wacky to service them.  Black Kats are not expensive, 
they just are not cheap.  If you wanna check out an expensive pedal, check 
out the DMR Vaults or the Chromag Scarabs, which are also great pedals.  
Black Kats are 34% larger, surface area wise, than a gripster.  That means 
you can wear super floppy shoes and still have great support.  

Lastly, like Riv, Deity is a rider owned company (hey, Analog is too!), and 
it's small.  They deserve support.  VP is not a small company.  So if you 
wanna support the small innovators, this is a fine place to do so.

-james / analog cycles


On Monday, December 2, 2019 at 12:55:47 PM UTC-5, Kieran J wrote:
>
> I have multiple sets of the VP Thin Gripster/VP-001. Great pedals but they 
> have all developed clicking noises in the bearings. Some of mine have 
> relatively low miles so I'm wondering about their longevity. I note that 
> RBW sells a bearing service kit but IMO it's too expensive.
>
> Have others experienced this? Did you service the pedals or replace them 
> with something else? If so, what?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Kieran
>
>

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[RBW] Re: 1x11 on a Roadini?

2019-12-03 Thread James / Analog Cycles
I'm running 1x11 on a Kona Rove, with a 42 up front and a 11-50 in the 
back.  SRAM Rival brifter and rear mech.  It's very close to the same gear 
inch spread as a 44/24 with a 11-32.  The clutch on the rear mech is great 
for dirt roads.  

There's some shots of it here:  https://www.instagram.com/p/B5lh9LtF5qA/ 

Absolutely no reason it wouldn't work on a roadini.  We've set up Sams and 
Chev's with 1x drivetrains, always works fine. 

-James / analog cycles 

On Monday, November 25, 2019 at 2:08:39 PM UTC-5, Robert Gardner wrote:
>
> Is anyone running a 1x11 on a roadini? Thinking of building one for some 
> centuries and/or light rando rides. Wondering if anyone has done this and 
> has any tips. 
>
> Yes, I know, compact doubles and/or 2x is kind of standard. Let me live my 
> life people!  
>
> Thanks ahead of time — 
>
> Rg 
>
> Sent from my iPhone

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[RBW] Re: Favorite All-around Drive train?

2019-11-26 Thread James / Analog Cycles
Where I live, wider is better.  So we mucked around in figured out that you 
can do a 44/24 White double or a 44/24 Middleburn double and run an  9 
speed 11-40 cassette in the back with a clutch GX 10 speed rear mech.  This 
gives a huge range of gears, with the added benefit of having a clutch rear 
mech for rough roads.  Friction shifts or index shifts using Shimano 9 
speed bar cons and a cable pull modifying pulley.  Why have limited gears 
when you have have super wide range gears?  At least that's our thought.  
Shimano CX front mech works great for said application.  Reasonable Q 
factor.  

-james / analog cycles

On Sunday, November 24, 2019 at 7:10:38 PM UTC-5, John Bokman wrote:
>
> Curious: What's been your favorite all-round drive train on your riv(s)?
>
> I was a big fan of the Sugino 46-36-26 tripple, but wanted a narrower 
> Q-factor, and never used the granny ring. I now use a 44/30 x 11/32 which 
> is nice in some ways, but I don't get the super smooth shifting I got from 
> the original (on my 2009 Sam). In fact, i've never gotten better shifting 
> than the original Sam setup.
>
> I like the idea of Riv's double, but it's a wider Q than I want, and with 
> the big ring at just 38 teeth, I deem the top end to be a bit lacking for 
> the type of riding I do.
>
> I've thought of using their Silver 44/34/24, but again, it's a wider Q 
> than I want, and I would hardly ever use the granny.
>
> I've got indexing on another bike (Shimano 105, 11x28), and it shifts 
> flawlessly, with a narrow Q from the Velo Orange 46/30 cranks. I'm not 
> interested in going indexing on the Riv, just a data point.
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: tubeless tire repair & maint Q

2019-11-18 Thread James / Analog Cycles
Here's a set up guide I wrote:  
https://www.analogcycles.com/true-facts-components/analogs-tubeless-set-up-guide/
And a maintenance guide:  
https://www.analogcycles.com/true-facts-components/tubeless-maintainence-repairs/
and for folks just getting started, a parts guide:  
https://www.analogcycles.com/tubeless-component-selection/

Hope that helps a bit.

-james / analog cycles

On Sunday, November 17, 2019 at 11:11:05 AM UTC-5, ted wrote:
>
> I would like some advice on tubeless tire "best practices" please.
> I've recently started riding with tubeless tires (wtb byways) after 
> decades of riding with tubes (and tubulars).
> Though I understand the tubeless setup should be immune to pinch flats, 
> goat heads, wire bits, staples, glass shards etc. worse things can happen. 
> So for now I'm still carrying two tubes, levers, etc. and a frame pump. But 
> I wonder, do most folks just trust in the sealant and leave the repair kit 
> at home? Is one tube plenty? Do folks carry tire plugs on rides? If folks 
> carry plugs do they carry extra sealant in case too much escapes through a 
> big whole prior to installing a plug?
> Also how about periodic sealant checking? How often is prudent? Does one 
> pull the valve core and use a wire as a dip stick to do this? How deep 
> should the sealant be? Should one do a first check fairly soon after 
> initial setup and then go to less frequent checks, or just always check 
> every ?? months?
> TIA
> ted
>

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[RBW] Re: compatibility question: double FD on triple

2019-11-18 Thread James / Analog Cycles
Best wide range triple for rings under 46t out there is the Shimano CX70, 
which Riv used to spec on completes.  It still works great.  Ultegra level, 
but technically designed for a CX bike.  You can get it lower than any road 
triple mech out there, and it will shift down to a 20t.  We've run it was a 
triple or a double set up, never any issues at all.  It can handle huge 
gear jumps, or normal ones.  We set up a bike with a 20-46t jump, and it 
shifted fine.  

-james / analog cycles

On Sunday, November 17, 2019 at 8:57:52 AM UTC-5, j.schwartz wrote:
>
> Greetings, 
>
> Curious if the group thinks this on-sale Claris "double" front derailleur 
> would work well with a Riv Silver 44/34/24 triple crankset on a Clem L?
>
> https://www.rivbike.com/collections/garage-sales-parts/products/claris-double-front-derailleur
>
> In my experience, cranksets with smaller large chainwheels don't always 
> require a "triple" derailleur with such a big cage.
> thank you
>

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[RBW] Re: Anyone used Gravelking 650b x 38 mm tubeless

2019-11-12 Thread James / Analog Cycles
Until recently I ran 700c tubeless GK smooth tires on my Sam.  The tires 
are great.  Best fast rolling gravel tire out there, IMO.  They're durable, 
ride great.  I ran mine at about 35 psi and could take it on mtn biking 
trails, bad roads, never got a flat.  Orange Seal Endurance sealant.  Quill 
Rims.  

-james / analog cycles

On Friday, November 8, 2019 at 8:20:48 PM UTC-5, ttoshi wrote:
>
> I'm thinking of using Gravelking 650b x 38mm tubeless with A23 rims.  Has 
> anyone used these Gravelkings?  I've never used tubeless before, so I'm 
> trying to solicit experience with the 38s. Most of the tubeless seem to use 
> fatter tires, presumably for lower pressure.  What pressure would you run 
> the 38s?
>
> Thanks,
> Toshi in Oakland
>
>

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[RBW] Re: WTB: Thick Washer for Nitto Rack

2019-11-12 Thread James / Analog Cycles
Or support a bike shop that's a Riv dealer!  
https://www.analogcycles.com/product/alloy-bolt-spacers-m5-m6/  Ours are 
aluminum, so they're lighter, FWIW.  



On Thursday, November 7, 2019 at 12:39:21 PM UTC-5, Clayton.sf wrote:
>
> Hi All,
>
> Wondering if anyone has a pair they'd part with.
> This is what I am looking for: 
> https://www.rivbike.com/collections/racks/products/rack-hardware-thick-washer-spacer-each
> .
>
> Many thanks!
>
> Clayton Scott
> HBG, CA
>

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[RBW] Re: Bicycle Lights for Commuting

2019-11-05 Thread James / Analog Cycles
We do lots of lighting set up here at the shop.  I've seen how they age, 
and where potential failure points come into play.  
Currently, we only sell 4 light brands, and really, only 1 is ideal for 
commuting in a busy area.
If you are commuting on a bike path, or in a quite rural area, you can run 
one of the following with less risk to motorists (and as a result less risk 
to yourself).

   - Rechargeable:  Cygolite.  If you can find a Expillion, they have 
   replaceable batteries, so you can pack a back up if it's cold out or if you 
   are out for a long period.  Ugly, but functional. 
   - Dynamo:  Sinewave or kLite both make solid options.  The Sinewave can 
   mount on the bars, fork crown or front rack.  The kLite, which is a bit 
   brighter at speeds over 12mph, is handlebar only.  

Best light for high traffic areas:  Schmidt Edelux II.  It beats all the 
others in terms of durability.  B+M makes good lights from an optics 
perspective, but the wiring is under built and the light housings don't 
like water.  The Schmidt takes the optics of a B+M light and puts it in a 
better housing with better wiring.  Can mount to fork crown, front rack, 
handlebar.  Front rack being the best spot.

We wire our lights to either Shutter precision hubs, Schmidt hubs or 
Velogical dynamos.   All are efficient.  The Velogical is cool because you 
don't have to build a new wheel, it runs on your rim.  The best 
bearings/strongest flanges are found in the Schmidt hub.  We've had zero 
issues with Schmidt hubs, despite hundreds sold.  3 warranty issues with SP 
hubs, so far.  Not a terrible rate of issues, but it's a factor to 
consider.  

Wiring is important, and our current go to set up, if using a Schmidt hub, 
is to use Coaxial jacks at the hub for easy connection.  

We prefer Schmidt fender, rack or seatpost tail lights because the wiring 
is more robust.  

Decent rechargeable tail lights abound out there.  We like the B+M ixxi, 
which is made in the EU.

Hope some of that helps!  

-James / Analog Cycles 






On Tuesday, November 5, 2019 at 12:48:18 AM UTC-5, DHans wrote:
>
> With the time change I will be biking home in the dark. I’m curious about 
> your light setup for riding in the dark. Also favorite light brands. 
> Thanks. 
> Doug

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[RBW] Re: Seeking Advice: Best Tires for Non-Ideal Rims

2019-10-21 Thread James / Analog Cycles
We used to run 20mm external width rims and 2.4" tires all the time back 
when singlespeeding was hip.  Built dozens of bikes with that combo, zero 
issues.  
-james / analog cycles 

On Thursday, October 17, 2019 at 9:34:57 PM UTC-4, j.schwartz wrote:
>
> I am waiting for a new 59cm Clem-L to arrive and plan on building it up as 
> a pretty basic off-road bike.  Most of the parts are things that have been 
> floating around my bike bins for years.
> The only new thing I'm planning on using is a Bosco 52cm alu bar I 
> purchased earlier this year but haven't really used.
>
> I just replaced my old touring wheelset that was on the Appa with a new 
> more modern and appropriate Cliffhanger wheelset 
>
> So I have the older wheels which are:  36h Synergy Rims laced to Shimano 
> dyno (DH-3N72) in front and an XT hub in the back.  I've ridden these 
> Synergy rims for about 9 years and they show no signs of any issues around 
> the eyelets that others have reported.
>
> I'd like to use what I have but I want to maximize the tires for the Clem. 
>  I'm planning to use tubes (those rims aren't good candidates for tubeless 
> anyway)
> Does anyone have any thoughts to how big I can go?
>
> Note these are 700's.
>
> I'd really like to mount 29x2.4's but these rims are 23mm wide with a 19mm 
> interior width.
>
> I did mount some non-tubeless Vittoria Mezcals in 29x2.1 size when they 
> were on the Appaloosa and they really didn't balloon at all.  Maybe they 
> could've been stretched out a little better by a wider rim, but they fit 
> and rode pretty well.
> *Pics attached of that
>
> Has anyone successfully run some off roady, tubed, mountain tires on those 
> rims in about 2.35" and up ?
>
> Thanks
>

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[RBW] Re: Alternative ride report for the Gorey Hollows Ride and Race

2019-10-17 Thread James / Analog Cycles
Most folks were on bikes with 2.25-2.8 tires, but 1 guy was on maybe 2.0's 
and one was on 40mm tires.  Notably, the guy on 40mm tires DNF'd.  



On Thursday, October 17, 2019 at 12:43:57 AM UTC-4, Wilson Wilson wrote:
>
> Agreed with the under biking. Probably should have used real ATB bikes.

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[RBW] Re: WTB: Analog (w)right stem- 31.8mm

2019-10-16 Thread James / Analog Cycles
As a general group FYI: new stems will be 4 bolt, with the 31.8 x 30 coming 
out first. Design is finalized, and we are sourcing the materials to make a 
run of 40 30mm stems and then 40 0mm stems.  
New stems will be made in Massachusetts, have all custom tube spec, custom 
binders, high quality brazing, and super good tolerances.  They will be 
Cerakoted in black or clear cerakote by master cerakoters.  
We're looking roughly at Xmas for delivery.  Additionally, we will have 
threadless CNC machined 0 and 30mm stems available, also US made, around 
the same time.  

-James / Analog Cycles 

On Wednesday, October 16, 2019 at 12:14:55 PM UTC-4, Weston Hein wrote:
>
> Hi all,
>
> In search of an Analog stem to try out some drops on my Clem. Open to 
> either the 0 or 30mm extension and looking for a 31.8 clamp. I called 
> Analog but it sounds like it may be awhile until they get another batch so 
> I'm crossing my fingers. Thanks!
>
> Email is weston.hein at gmail.com
>

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[RBW] Re: Seeking Washington DC bike shop

2019-10-11 Thread James / Analog Cycles
Hi Paul,  it's a bit of a drive, but Baltimore Bicycle Works has good 
mechanics, (some of whom I have sold Rivendells to) and they get alt 
bikes.  As a former DC area shop owner, this is who I have directed my old 
customers to.  

-james / Analog Cycles / Formerly Gravel & Grind 

On Thursday, October 10, 2019 at 9:52:16 AM UTC-4, Paul Richardson wrote:
>
> howdy folks--
>
> i'm new to the greater DC metro area and looking for a new bike shop with 
> a reliable mechanic.  any leads welcome.
>
> thanks
> paul
> takoma park, md.
>

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[RBW] Re: Advice Sought on Hubs and Rim Choice

2019-10-10 Thread James / Analog Cycles
Hi Garth, 

A few things: 

According to Velocity, there are no replacement FH bodies available for 
their hubs.  That right there knocks those outta contention for me.  What 
good is a hub if you can't service it?  It's like having a stick shift car 
you can't put a new clutch in.  

I import my hubs from the UK.  As far as I know (and I know very little 
about what other shops are doing!) we are the only ones who import them 
from the UK cause it's a PITA, not unlike Middleburn Cranks and Jtek 
stuff.  Not worth it for higher volume shops.  They are not listed on the 
Bitex site.  They only come in silver or black, 32 or 36 hole count.  

-james





On Thursday, October 10, 2019 at 6:13:12 AM UTC-4, Garth wrote:
>
>
> James, which Bitex models are you referring to as almost all of their J 
> bend rear hubs are available in a 135mm QR axle ?  
> http://bitexhubs.com/htm/index.php 
> <http://www.google.com/url?q=http%3A%2F%2Fbitexhubs.com%2Fhtm%2Findex.php=D=1=AFQjCNHASEo-W1IH-RNvgsB8x9NqgZ1-rQ>
>
>
> Any experience with a Velocity ATB hub, the base cartridge bearing one ? 
> https://www.velocityusa.com/product/hubs/atb-rear-hub  It seems like an 
> alternative to the Shimano ones and from what I've seen Velocity offers 
> very good warranty service. 
>
>  I noticed on a new Deore rear hub some sag and lag of the chain as you 
> mention, leading to some chain suck which I've never experienced on the 
> Bombadil using Sachs freehweels. 
>
>
>
>
> On Thursday, October 10, 2019 at 2:57:04 AM UTC-4, James / Analog Cycles 
> wrote:
>>
>> Bitex touring hubs are the best bang for the buck touring hub out there.  
>> Big Enduro sealed bearings, rebuildable steel freehub, adjustable bearing 
>> preload... About half the cost of White.  I don't know why anyone would 
>> build a nice wheel without butted spokes.  Sapim force or race spokes go on 
>> even our most budget oriented wheel builds.  After multiple mud seasons, 
>> the bitex hubs we run on our personal bikes are still spinning smoothly.  
>> Yearly tear downs reveal only the most minimal contamination.  The main 
>> difference in 'ride quality' is going to be engagement and ease of 
>> coasting.  Shimano FH bodies are not rebuildable, and have a relatively 
>> short service life in my experience (19 years building wheels).  Coasting 
>> with Shimano FH bodies is often sort of sticky, with the chain lagging and 
>> sagging when you go rapidly from pedaling to coasting.  That, plus the slow 
>> engagement, are all the 'ride quality' differences you are going to have 
>> between a nicer hub and a Shimano.  Bitex hubs use 48t engagement with 6 
>> pairs of pawls.  White by contrast, uses 3 pawls, no pairs.  The White hubs 
>> are nice, and they look better.  That's the main draw, besides slightly 
>> lower weight.  
>>
>> Re:  Rim widths.  If you don't care about Tubeless, the Atlas rim is 
>> fine, but get it with machined sidewalls for more consistent braking.  
>> Really though, the Cliffhangers feel fine with 38mm tires even on really 
>> rough terrain, and why run a tire smaller than that ever?  Plus you can run 
>> tubeless, which for the desert, has gotta be helpful.  
>>
>> For whatever it's worth, we stopped selling Atlas rims and Shimano hubs 
>> about 3 years ago.  Bitex touring hubs are that much better, as are 
>> cliffhangers.  A bit more scratch, but not a ton!
>>
>> -James / Analog Cycles / Wheel builder 
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> On Wednesday, October 9, 2019 at 9:20:43 AM UTC-4, Steve Cole wrote:
>>>
>>> I'm building up a new-to-me MIT Atlantis.  My best guess is that this is 
>>> my final build short of deciding to have a custom frame built for me, which 
>>> is unlikely.  As a result, I'm willing to spend somewhat more on components 
>>> that I otherwise would.  I've been thinking about the wheels I want and 
>>> would be grateful for advice.  Are Velocity rims and Deore hubs more than 
>>> sufficient -- in other words would I notice any difference in the short- or 
>>> longer-term if I use more upscale hubs such as Phil Wood, Chris King, White 
>>> Industries or Shimano XTR?  For rims, I've been thinking about using 
>>> Velocity Atlas as I'll be riding on and off-road in the desert southwest. 
>>>  Are there other rims I should consider?  Thanks for your input.
>>>
>>> Steve Cole
>>>
>>>

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[RBW] Re: Advice Sought on Hubs and Rim Choice

2019-10-10 Thread James / Analog Cycles
Bitex touring hubs are the best bang for the buck touring hub out there.  
Big Enduro sealed bearings, rebuildable steel freehub, adjustable bearing 
preload... About half the cost of White.  I don't know why anyone would 
build a nice wheel without butted spokes.  Sapim force or race spokes go on 
even our most budget oriented wheel builds.  After multiple mud seasons, 
the bitex hubs we run on our personal bikes are still spinning smoothly.  
Yearly tear downs reveal only the most minimal contamination.  The main 
difference in 'ride quality' is going to be engagement and ease of 
coasting.  Shimano FH bodies are not rebuildable, and have a relatively 
short service life in my experience (19 years building wheels).  Coasting 
with Shimano FH bodies is often sort of sticky, with the chain lagging and 
sagging when you go rapidly from pedaling to coasting.  That, plus the slow 
engagement, are all the 'ride quality' differences you are going to have 
between a nicer hub and a Shimano.  Bitex hubs use 48t engagement with 6 
pairs of pawls.  White by contrast, uses 3 pawls, no pairs.  The White hubs 
are nice, and they look better.  That's the main draw, besides slightly 
lower weight.  

Re:  Rim widths.  If you don't care about Tubeless, the Atlas rim is fine, 
but get it with machined sidewalls for more consistent braking.  Really 
though, the Cliffhangers feel fine with 38mm tires even on really rough 
terrain, and why run a tire smaller than that ever?  Plus you can run 
tubeless, which for the desert, has gotta be helpful.  

For whatever it's worth, we stopped selling Atlas rims and Shimano hubs 
about 3 years ago.  Bitex touring hubs are that much better, as are 
cliffhangers.  A bit more scratch, but not a ton!

-James / Analog Cycles / Wheel builder 





On Wednesday, October 9, 2019 at 9:20:43 AM UTC-4, Steve Cole wrote:
>
> I'm building up a new-to-me MIT Atlantis.  My best guess is that this is 
> my final build short of deciding to have a custom frame built for me, which 
> is unlikely.  As a result, I'm willing to spend somewhat more on components 
> that I otherwise would.  I've been thinking about the wheels I want and 
> would be grateful for advice.  Are Velocity rims and Deore hubs more than 
> sufficient -- in other words would I notice any difference in the short- or 
> longer-term if I use more upscale hubs such as Phil Wood, Chris King, White 
> Industries or Shimano XTR?  For rims, I've been thinking about using 
> Velocity Atlas as I'll be riding on and off-road in the desert southwest. 
>  Are there other rims I should consider?  Thanks for your input.
>
> Steve Cole
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Brooks Rivet repair

2019-09-09 Thread James / Analog Cycles
These cats do a good job:  
https://www.transportcycle.com/frame-shop/brooks-saddle-repair/

I've used them in the past.  -james / analog cycles

On Friday, September 6, 2019 at 9:56:25 PM UTC-4, Jon Dukeman,central 
Colorado wrote:
>
> The rivet on the nose of my Brooks Saddle snaped off. 
> Isn't there a place that repairs Brooks.
> I never registered it so it's not under warranty.
> Thanks in advance.
> Jon

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[RBW] Re: "yoko" salmon brakepads?

2019-09-09 Thread James / Analog Cycles
Kool stop made Mathauser pads for them.  The kool stop formula is as OG as 
it gets.  Dura II pads are awesome.  I upgrade Paul brakes with those all 
the time.  Here's a micro write up on them:  
https://www.analogcycles.com/product/kool-stop-brake-pads/  -james / analog 
cycles

On Saturday, September 7, 2019 at 9:55:07 AM UTC-4, Marc Irwin wrote:
>
> It might just be me but I like the feel of the Yoko pads better than Kool 
> Stop.  Kool Stop is easier to find but the Yoko pads are made with the 
> original Matthauser formula which was bought and licensed by Scott.  I've 
> always liked Matthauser pads and just stick with them.  I find the Yoko's 
> on Amazon if nobody else has them in stock.
>
> Marc
>
> On Friday, September 6, 2019 at 1:36:29 PM UTC-4, Clayton.sf wrote:
>>
>> have used both brands over the years and have never been able to detect 
>> any performance difference between their salmon pads. both work well for 
>> me. I am not a brake guy though.
>>
>> clayton Scott
>> hbg, ca
>>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Drop Bar Appaloosa's?

2019-07-04 Thread James / Analog Cycles
Looks awesome!  New stems are in the works.  Faceplate braze ons are about 
to go to a CNC machinist.  High drop bars are the jam!  

-james

On Sunday, June 30, 2019 at 5:53:22 PM UTC-4, jandrews wrote:
>
> Picking this thread back up
> after giving the new Appaloosa a few rides with both 52cm Boscos' then 
> Choco-norms...I picked up one of those Analog/Spank gravel bars.
> I had a 30mm Analog stem that I purchased off this list.  I took a few 
> weeks slowly setting up this cockpit because I couldn't quite get things 
> right (Bar ends on these bars were hitting my knees) until I remembered 
> that I had a stem-mount shifter mount in the box and once that went on, 
> everything sort of clicked.   The very short stem extension allows easy 
> thumb shifting while riding on the flats.
> These bars are 31.8mm all the way along the flats which I was really 
> unsure about , but they feel great..like comfy reassuring baseball bat 
> placed on top of a drop bar.  The Analog stem get 'em up high (maybe too 
> high in these photos) ...but riding in the drops is basically like holding 
> the grips on the Choco-norms.
>
> Who says a rolling couch can't have drop bars?
>
>
>
>
>
>
> On Friday, May 10, 2019 at 8:35:35 AM UTC-4, Sky Coulter wrote:
>>
>> I sized slightly down to go with drops:
>>
>> https://www.instagram.com/p/BjD3twihvqBnoo8cJBCYKq4vOxQvO5Rz-biVWQ0/
>>
>> Sky in new west
>>
>> On Friday, 10 May 2019 05:22:51 UTC-7, Hugh Flynn wrote:
>>>
>>> Been thinking about going towel rack on mine. Good to know! 
>>>
>>> Nice looking bike too!
>>>
>>> Hugh 
>>>
>>> On Fri, May 10, 2019 at 8:14 AM Reid Echols  wrote:
>>>
 Here's my 62 with the "small" Crust Towel Rack bar. I really like it so 
 far, though the back sweep of the ramps may necessitate a slightly longer 
 stem in the long run. 


 [image: IMG_3473 copy.jpg]

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>>> -- 
>>> Hugh Flynn
>>> Newburyport, MA
>>>
>>

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