Re: [RBW] Front Low-rider Panniers on Rambouillet?

[Joe Broach]

Classic Blackburn-style low riders have done well on my Romulus for several
tours. I just used p clamps. It will discolor the paint over time. Fork and
tubing are functionally equivalent to your 'bou. Go for it!

-joe in pdx

Caveat lector. Sent from a phone.

On Dec 28, 2016 1:24 PM, "Kieran J"  wrote:

Hi All,

Hope everyone is having a nice holiday season!

I'm curious about how the Rambouillet handles with different configs of a
front load. I've only ever really used a small Swift Bandito up on the
handlebar, but never anything more substantial.

Have any Ram owners ever:

   - somehow run low-rider panniers on the stock fork?
   - run low-rider panniers and an additional front bag on the stock fork?
   - had success with an aftermarket fork with a different trail figure?

Long story, I'm thinking of having a couple mods done to my Ram and new
powder done (the Creamsicle is cool, but doesn't match anything -
especially not all the red clothing I have). I would consider adding
mid-fork eyelets if running front low-riders appears to work well for the
bike.

Thanks!

Kieran

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[RBW] WTB: MUSA mitts

[Joe Broach]

Trying to scare up a pair. With thumbs preferred. Thanks!

Best,
joe
pdx or

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Re: [RBW] Silver 2 shifters

[Joe Broach]

So cool! Wish they had "the band." I'm sure the new clamp is 28% better,
but holy cow was that hidden bolt band slick. Always seemed like the
closest thing I owned to constructeur. I wonder if the deuce will have the
same 3 point lever orientation option.

Who cares, though, so happy they're back!

Best,
joe
pdx or.

On Oct 14, 2016 11:08 AM, "Bill Lindsay"  wrote:

> The BLUG has a long write up and description of the Silver 2 shifters.
> One big take home is the Silver 1 shifter mold is shot, so those will be
> going away.  So, if you love Silver shifters, stock up now.  The Silver 2
> looks like it'll be a way better thumb shifter, a somewhat better barcon
> shifter, and an amusingly ironic downtube shifter.  Most importantly (to
> me), is that if you want to embolden Rivendell Bicycle Works to keep
> putting their money where their brains are, then reward them by buying a
> pair or two of Silver 2's and put them into your personal inventory.  When
> the need arises, get them from your stock.  If Riv gets a lot of early
> adopters buying them, then they'll have the confidence and the money to
> make the next part that you can't get anywhere else.  Grant tells you on
> the BLUG how to get on an email list for updates on the Silver 2.
>
> Bill habitual-early-adopter Lindsay
> El Cerrito, CA
>
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[RBW] Re: [BOB] Re: Compass McClure Pass tire height and width?

[Joe Broach]

Patrick,

I imagine the casing is better, and maybe even the rubber compound, but I'm
not excited to see that Pasela tread on a Compass tire.

Best,
joe
pdx or

On Thu, Oct 6, 2016 at 2:11 PM, Patrick Moore  wrote:

> They are labeled 1.4", so I guess 36 as most. If small, perhaps they'll be
> a true 32? 32 will fit under my fenders.
>
> I would jump, except that these are not the extra lights, and that I am so
> happy with the ~28 mm Elk Passes.
>
> Joe: I think I've read that all Compass tires, albeit made by Panracer,
> are made from very different materials than the Paselas.
>
> On Thu, Oct 6, 2016 at 2:50 PM, Justin Hughes  wrote:
>
>> I have a lot of experience with myriad Panaracer made tires. I am very
>> confident that those tires will not measure over 38mm wide on a 17/23 rim.
>> My money is that they'd be really close to 36mm. This tire is labeled as
>> 1.5", right?
>>
>>
>> On Thursday, October 6, 2016 at 2:09:00 PM UTC-4, bertin753 wrote:
>>>
>>> Compass couldn't give me the information, doubtless due to caution about
>>> returns and irate customers shouting about mis-sizing, but I wonder if any
>>> listmember can do so?
>>>
>>> There just *might* be room under fenders on the '03 for this 1.4"
>>> 'specially if they run narrow, as the EPs do.
>>>
>>> So, question: if I installed a McClure Pass on a 23 mm outside width rim
>>> at ~ 50 psi, what total height or diameter, and what width, could I expect?
>>>
>>>
>>> Patrick "will not take you to court on your answer" Moore, AKA:
>>>
>>> Patrick "still have serious doubts about using anything except the
>>> superlatively wonderful Elk Passes" Moore -- who rode them on choppy bosque
>>> dirt just on Monday.
>>>
>>> --
>>> Resumes, LinkedIn profiles, bios, and letters that get interviews.
>>> By-the-hour resume and LinkedIn coaching.
>>> Other professional writing services.
>>> http://www.resumespecialties.com/
>>> www.linkedin.com/in/patrickmooreresumespec/
>>> Patrick Moore
>>> Alburquerque, Nouvelle Mexique,  Vereinigte Staaten
>>> 
>>> 
>>> *The point which is the pivot of the norm is the motionless center of a
>>> circumference on the contours of which all conditions, distinctions, and
>>> individualities revolve. *Chuang Tzu
>>>
>>> *Stat crux dum volvitur orbis.* *(The cross stands motionless while the
>>> world revolves.) *Carthusian motto
>>>
>>> *It is *we *who change; *He* remains the same.* Eckhart
>>>
>>> *Kinei hos eromenon.* (*It moves [all things] as the beloved.) *
>>> Aristotle
>>>
>>>
>>> --
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>
>
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> **
> **
> *The point which is the pivot of the norm is the motionless center of a
> circumference on the contours of which all conditions, distinctions, and
> individualities revolve. *Chuang Tzu
>
> *Stat crux dum volvitur orbis.* *(The cross stands motionless while the
> world revolves.) *Carthusian motto
>
> *It is *we *who change; *He* remains the same.* Eckhart
>
> *Kinei hos eromenon.* (*It moves [all things] as the beloved.) *Aristotle
>
>
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Re: [RBW] Compass McClure Pass tire height and width?

[Joe Broach]

Did I miss the announcement on the McClure? They look like souped up
Paselas to my eye, and nothing like the rest of the recent line up. Would
also be interested in a true width for the 92 XO-1 in the family.

Best,
joe
pdx or

On Thu, Oct 6, 2016 at 11:08 AM, Patrick Moore  wrote:

> Compass couldn't give me the information, doubtless due to caution about
> returns and irate customers shouting about mis-sizing, but I wonder if any
> listmember can do so?
>
> There just *might* be room under fenders on the '03 for this 1.4"
> 'specially if they run narrow, as the EPs do.
>
> So, question: if I installed a McClure Pass on a 23 mm outside width rim
> at ~ 50 psi, what total height or diameter, and what width, could I expect?
>
>
> Patrick "will not take you to court on your answer" Moore, AKA:
>
> Patrick "still have serious doubts about using anything except the
> superlatively wonderful Elk Passes" Moore -- who rode them on choppy bosque
> dirt just on Monday.
>
> --
> Resumes, LinkedIn profiles, bios, and letters that get interviews.
> By-the-hour resume and LinkedIn coaching.
> Other professional writing services.
> http://www.resumespecialties.com/
> www.linkedin.com/in/patrickmooreresumespec/
> Patrick Moore
> Alburquerque, Nouvelle Mexique,  Vereinigte Staaten
> **
> **
> *The point which is the pivot of the norm is the motionless center of a
> circumference on the contours of which all conditions, distinctions, and
> individualities revolve. *Chuang Tzu
>
> *Stat crux dum volvitur orbis.* *(The cross stands motionless while the
> world revolves.) *Carthusian motto
>
> *It is *we *who change; *He* remains the same.* Eckhart
>
> *Kinei hos eromenon.* (*It moves [all things] as the beloved.) *Aristotle
>
>
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Re: [RBW] SHIPPING BY AMTRAK

[Joe Broach]

I've shipped with Amtrak. It's pretty slick. Things to note:

They'll charge you for the special giant box if they don't happen to ha e a
used one around. $15 I think?

They won't let you put anything else in the empty space. I'd thought I
could stash my empty panniers in the void. Nope.

It was great to be able to ride to the station on the bike I was shipping.

Best,
joe
pdx or

Caveat lector. Sent from a phone.

On Sep 21, 2016 4:45 PM, "Kellie"  wrote:

> Anyone used Amtrak to ship their bike? Trying to get my bike to the east
> coast. Have used BikeFlights, but looking for an alternative.
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: 30k Riv Romulus report

[Joe Broach]

Hi Michael,

I'll admit I'm not that picky about my tape being in perfect condition. I
do take a lot of care in wrapping and finishing the ends, though. Also, the
Salsa "Thick n Zesty" probably covered half that distance--remarkably
durable! I switched to cork just a few thousand miles ago for a change. All
of the brake pad wear happens in winter. They're consistently gone by April.

Sellwood Cycle Repair is my neighborhood LBS and highly recommended by me.
They ship bikes regularly, and I regularly see tandems in the shop for
repair, though they don't sell them new.

Best,
joe pdx or

On Mon, Aug 8, 2016 at 2:33 PM, Michael Hechmer  wrote:

> Joe, your posts suggest you only avg. 3K miles for a set of front brake
> pads but 15K for HB tape.  In rainy PDX!  I'm amazed.
>
> BTW, we are still looking for a bike shop in Portland to ship our tandem
> to for a tour in Oct.  Any suggestions?
>
> Michael
>
>
> On Sunday, August 7, 2016 at 11:39:42 PM UTC-4, joe b. wrote:
>>
>> Cross posted to RBW and iBoB.
>>
>> I'm updating the drive train on my canti-Rom, bought pretty much new as a
>> frame from a Wyoming i-bob in 2005. I realized looking through my
>> maintenance notes that I'm right at 30k miles--hard to believe! It was fun
>> to tally up what's been done over that time, especially since I've mostly
>> left it alone since the initial build. Spoiler alert: simple bikes are
>> really low maintenance.
>>
>> In 30k including year round commuting in Montana and Oregon, touring on
>> all surfaces, and generally getting around, I've replaced...
>>
>> 10 sets of tires, mostly paselas
>> 10 sets of front brake pads
>> 10 chains
>> 2 freewheels (though original suntour not worn out)
>> 2 sets of bar tape
>> 1 front rim
>> 1 set of rear pads
>> 1 saggy B17 standard
>> 0 chainrings (steel, well, I did pull off the original biopace rings)
>> 0 cables, shift or brake (yay? yikes?)
>>
>> Here's to the next 30k, possibly with a 2x10 drive train if it works out.
>>
>> Best,
>> joe
>> pdx or
>>
>> Caveat lector. Sent from a phone.
>>
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[RBW] 30k Riv Romulus report

[Joe Broach]

Cross posted to RBW and iBoB.

I'm updating the drive train on my canti-Rom, bought pretty much new as a
frame from a Wyoming i-bob in 2005. I realized looking through my
maintenance notes that I'm right at 30k miles--hard to believe! It was fun
to tally up what's been done over that time, especially since I've mostly
left it alone since the initial build. Spoiler alert: simple bikes are
really low maintenance.

In 30k including year round commuting in Montana and Oregon, touring on all
surfaces, and generally getting around, I've replaced...

10 sets of tires, mostly paselas
10 sets of front brake pads
10 chains
2 freewheels (though original suntour not worn out)
2 sets of bar tape
1 front rim
1 set of rear pads
1 saggy B17 standard
0 chainrings (steel, well, I did pull off the original biopace rings)
0 cables, shift or brake (yay? yikes?)

Here's to the next 30k, possibly with a 2x10 drive train if it works out.

Best,
joe
pdx or

Caveat lector. Sent from a phone.

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Re: [RBW] Less expensive 650b alternatives to Compass/GB tires?

[Joe Broach]

​Lungimsam​ bemoaned:

I have enjoyed mine, but they...are...soexpensive When you add in
shipping it comes to like 70+ bucks per tire for the Loup Loups. Love these
tires and highly recommend them, though.

If the expense is taking the fun out of it, put on a $40 pair of Col de la
Vies and enjoy the next 10,000 miles. Everyone used to love 'em before they
knew better, and they're still leagues better riding than the average tire.
They will degrade if stored in the sun, though. Just a thought!

Best,
joe
pdx or

On Sun, Jul 17, 2016 at 12:15 PM, Lungimsam  wrote:

> ​​
> I have enjoyed mine, but they...are...soexpensive When you add in
> shipping it comes to like 70+ bucks per tire for the Loup Loups. Love these
> tires and highly recommend them, though.
>
> So I am looking around to see if there are any similarly built tires that
> are less expensive out there, in the 30+mm wide range but not wider than
> 38mm.
>
>
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Re: [RBW] Upright road riders tell me your fit setup please.

[Joe Broach]

>
> ​
> 1. Terrain you ride in.


paved roads to easy singletrack

​
> ​
> 2. What model bike and upright handlebar.​


​56cm cr-mo albatross

​
> ​
> 2. What type of on-road riding you do (commutes, errands, centuries,
> ​...
>

​(did, for me, I've switched to drops for now) fun and getting places up to
80 miles

 ​
> ​
> 3. Fit:
>  a) Your bar height to saddle height
> ​  Level or ​bars a bit above, bars tilted level
>
>  b) seat fore and aft (KOPS?, saddle slammed all the way back on
> the rails Riv-style, etc.?)
> ​ ​
> ​all the way back (72.5 STA)
>
>  c) saddle height ( I guess most of you use the Riv method of
> PBH-11cm?).
> ​  82cm
>
 d) what kinda saddle and how do you tilt it?
> ​
> ​Level or ever so slightly nose up.
> ​


​
> ​
> 4. Also, what do you do in winter so you don't get blasted with wintry
> blasts when riding? My thighs and shoulders get cranky when I ride too long
> in the cold, and upright just opens them up to more direct wintry wind
> punishment.
>

​Underrated advantage of upright, especially when I lived in colder climes
(western Montana), was being able to layer however I wanted without
everything bunching up when I bent over. You also get less wind up your
collar and can wear a broader brimmed hat and still see.​ I kept the bars
and will have a bike for them again someday...

Best,
joe
pdx or

On Fri, Jun 17, 2016 at 8:38 PM, Lungimsam  wrote:

> Thinking of trying Boscos on my Sam. I like my drops setups. But thinking
> an upright setup will be fun for on-road riding, too. I do commuting,
> errands, centuries, recreational on-road riding.
>
> But it is hilly around here and was wondering what you hilly upright
> riders do for your upright bike setups that works for you.
>
> I know this is a highly individual thing, but interested to see what works
> for you.
>
> ​​
> Please mention:
> 1. Terrain you ride in.
> ​​
> 2. What model bike and upright handlebar.
> ​​
> 2. What type of on-road riding you do (commutes, errands, centuries,
> brevets, touring, recreational road riding).
> ​​
> 3. Fit:
>  a) Your bar height to saddle height
>  b) seat fore and aft (KOPS?, saddle slammed all the way back on
> the rails Riv-style, etc.?)
>  c) saddle height ( I guess most of you use the Riv method of
> PBH-11cm?).
>  d) what kinda saddle and how do you tilt it?
>
> ​​
> 4. Also, what do you do in winter so you don't get blasted with wintry
> blasts when riding? My thighs and shoulders get cranky when I ride too long
> in the cold, and upright just opens them up to more direct wintry wind
> punishment.
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Sugino chainring swap as easy as this Rivideo makes it look?

[Joe Broach]

​
On Tue, May 24, 2016 at 4:08 PM, Joe Bernard  wrote:

>
> 2. No grease on square taper spindles. It encourages installing the crank
> too hard to the point of splitting it.
>

I think it's not a big deal either way, but here's Jobst on the subject,
via Sheldon: http://www.sheldonbrown.com/brandt/installing-cranks.html

I also would be really surprised if you could split a crank by driving it
up the taper with normal hand tools. Take your time, and think about what
you're doing. This is one place you can really mess things* up, but you
probably won't!

Best,
joe
pdx or

* mainly the extraction threads (not getting the tool threaded in properly)
or crank arm taper (by failing to get up to torque)



​​
On Tue, May 24, 2016 at 4:08 PM, Joe Bernard  wrote:

> 1. I've never used a torque wrench, but I've been doing this stuff as long
> as Mark has and probably have am internal torque sensor in my head. Torque
> wrenches are a good thing.
>
> 2. No grease on square taper spindles. It encourages installing the crank
> too hard to the point of splitting it.
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: OT: carrying fishing poles on a bike

[Joe Broach]

Baskets are great for waders and boots, too. If it's not raining they dry
on the way home! I carried fishing pack in one basket and boots and waders
in the other. Ron's is classier, but hobo fishing works fine and doesn't
leave anything grab-able on the bike.

Best,
joe
pdx or

On Sat, Apr 30, 2016 at 5:58 PM, Ron Mc  wrote:

> ps, with both panniers and rando bag, I can add waders and cleated boots,
> and wading staff, (and lunch) for fishing coldwater
> But yes, multipiece rods in tubes are a big advantage, 3-pc, 4-pc, 6-pc,
> etc.
>
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Re: [RBW] OT: carrying fishing poles on a bike

[Joe Broach]

I've carried fly rods in their (inner tube-wrapped) aluminum tube using a
PVC endcap at bottom and toe strap at the rear rack. This setup has worked
great even on singletrack (with a 4-piece rod). You can get the idea from
this photo:

https://www.flickr.com/photos/cyclerslife/2696878540/in/album-72157606334274876/

It's super addictive to be able to put in anywhere. Let us know what you
come up with!

Best,
joe
pdx or

On Sat, Apr 30, 2016 at 5:33 PM, WETH  wrote:

> As I recall, a few list members fish.  My question, does anyone have
> suggestions for carrying poles on their bike?
> The internet showed me some interesting homemade rack attachments using
> PVC pipe, other folk strap poles to the tI prune like a frame pump, others
> secure pole to waterbottle cage/ head tube, others take pole apart and put
> in a backpack.  And, I found this: http://www.bikefisherman.com.
> Am I missing any other options?
> I am building up a bike for the son of a dear family friend to take to
> college.  He loves to fish.  When the build is complete, I want to help him
> devise a way to carry his pole for fishing.  The bike will have a rear rack
> and front mini rack.
> Thoughts?
> Thanks,
> Erl
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Lawyers lips and helmets (or: WTB - Peugeot PX-10 fork)

[Joe Broach]

Here's hoping you heal up quick, Kevin! I once pulled my old Miyata off a
fork-mount car rack, rode about 3 miles including a steep 30+ mi/hr
descent, lifted the bike to get up the front steps and...the wheel dropped
out. No lawyer lips and bolt on axle, so I must have just slipped the wheel
in and never tightened the axle nuts. A QR at least would've given me a
visual clue after I hopped on. Sheesh!

That said, I disagree with a couple of other posters...

Michael H. wrote:

> Do not take your QR for granted.  Check it.  Make sure it is tight.
> Replace old QR's with solid new ones - Ultegra, Paul's, PW.  Yes they are
> expensive, but then so are good brakes & tires and none of us would ride a
> bike with a worn front tire or flimsy brake.


​In tens of thousands of miles, I've never had a QR loosen up or fail​. I
wouldn't hesitate to use an old QR that works smoothly, and I don't worry
about re-checking (on a bike with rim brakes, anyways). The internal cam QR
is amazingly reliable technology, in my experience.

A shy poster wrote:

> If you are in the market for new skewers I recommend Pitlocks. Might as
> well while you are at it.


​I'm not sure I'd use Pitlocks without lawyer lips. They don't clamp
anywhere near as tightly as a QR (just try one with horizontal dropouts​).
Probably fine but slimmer margin for error. I wish someone would figure out
a clever anti-theft internal cam QR (that doesn't involve turning
 the bike upside down to release).

​Again, glad you're mostly OK, Kevin. Also, if the fork's not kinked, I'd
take it by a (great) LBS or framebuilder and see if they can't just
re-align it for you. It might be fine.

Best,
joe
pdx or​


​


On Fri, Apr 22, 2016 at 6:22 AM, Michael Hechmer  wrote:

> Kevin I am sorry to read about your accident, the damage to your bike &
> body.  I too have gone over the handlebars, actually a couple of times in
> 45 years of riding.  Once from hitting a large rock  and another when my
> wheel went into a sewer grate.  I have also had the experience of
> discovering my front QR had been pried open during a mass pit stop on a
> club ride.  I do think there is a better, more important lesson in this
> than going to lawyer lips, which seem to me to complicate QR setup and
> increase the risk of failure, all be it not catastrophic failure.  Do not
> take your QR for granted.  Check it.  Make sure it is tight.  Replace old
> QR's with solid new ones - Ultegra, Paul's, PW.  Yes they are expensive,
> but then so are good brakes & tires and none of us would ride a bike with a
> worn front tire or flimsy brake.
>
> Take some time; let your body heal; get back in the saddle.
>
> blessings,
> michael
>
> On Wednesday, April 20, 2016 at 8:22:15 PM UTC-4, Kevin Lindsey wrote:
>
>> This is on-topic.
>> Aside from being a Riv fanatic, I also love old steel racing bikes.  Over
>> the past three months, I rebuilt a 1972 (i.e. pre-lawyer lips) Peugeot
>> PX-10, using all original equipment (Simplex transmission, Mafac brakes,
>> Campy hubs, Brooks Swift, etc.) and took it out for its maiden voyage two
>> days ago.  On my way back from the 40-mile jaunt, I approached a slight
>> curb and jerked the front wheel up a bit to clear it.  My next memories are
>> a flash of me going over the handlebars and hitting the pavement, then
>> being surrounded by concerned runners (I was on the Mount Vernon bike and
>> running trail in Alexandria, Virginia) tut-tutting at my broken bike and
>> bleeding knees, shoulder, and face.  Fortunately, I was able to walk the
>> bike about three miles to the nearest bike shop and called my wife to come
>> pick me up.
>> Looking at the bike and my injuries later that evening, I believe what
>> happened was this: the old Campy quick release skewer on my front wheel got
>> loose and, by jerking the bike up at the curb, I pulled the wheel out of
>> the left fork, causing the wheel to pop off, digging my now wheel-less fork
>> into the pavement, and flipping me for a 180.  I hit on my knees and hands
>> (fortunately protected by riding gloves), and my head (fortunately
>> protected by a now-gashed helmet).  I will eventually heal (assuming that
>> my wrist is not actually broken, but only banged up, and that the slight
>> headache I've had since will eventually dissipate), but the right tine of
>> my fork is permanently bent at about a 15 degree angle.  Otherwise, thank
>> God, my bike is almost unscathed (except for the Brooks, which was deeply
>> scored and which led me to conclude that I flipped the bike over completely
>> during the crash).
>> Although we often grouse about lawyer lips and helmets, this accident
>> wouldn't have happened on my Hunq or Bleriot, graced as they both are with
>> those annoying lips demanded by liability lawyers to prevent incidents like
>> this.  Also, if I hadn't been wearing my helmet, it's likely that I would
>> have had a full-blown concussion, not to mention a deep road rash on my
>> head to match the relatively light st

Re: [RBW] First S24O of 2016, and first on my Appaloosa, tonight!

[Joe Broach]

Hey Bill,

I've solved the third cage/fender interference several times in my mind,
but so far always just as an academic exercise. Either a cage with slotted
mounts (mostly ugly), or something like this
,
or roll your own adapter with aluminum stock/3D printing. Of course, it
occurs to me that if I've thought of those, you've probably thought of
something cooler already. Please report back.

Nice work on the S24OwK!

Best,
joe
pdx or

On Thu, Apr 7, 2016 at 11:53 AM, Bill Lindsay  wrote:

> My 14 year old son is on Spring Break, and one of the things he wanted to
> do was go on an S24O.  I'm leaving the office early, and we'll ride ~28
> miles from home in El Cerrito to Lake Chabot Regional Park.  Tomorrow
> morning we'll get up, break camp and ride the ~15miles down through Castro
> Valley to my office in Union City.  I'll keep him busy in the lab during
> the workday Friday.
>
> Me: 55cm Joe Appaloosa.  Him: 52cm Yves Gomez.  I'll be running most of
> the cargo, with a Nitto Big Front Rack, Sackville Backabike panniers (on
> the front) a Wald big basket, and a Sackville Saddlesack Medium (no rear
> rack).  He'll have a Platrack and a Sackville Slickersack setup.
>
> One sub-optimal finding is that I've found that I don't have a water
> bottle small enough to fit into an Iris cage in the third position under
> the downtube.  The smallest bottles I have still hit the fender (P65).
> There's water at the campsite, so I'm not going to worry about it tonight,
> but I do want to be able to run three bottles someday.  Maybe I can tweak
> the fender position.  Maybe a different cage will position the bottle
> lower.  Etc.
>
> Wish us luck!  Our in the tent passtime will be:  Cribbage!
>
> Bill Lindsay
> El Cerrito, CA
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: IQ-X Headlight

[Joe Broach]

Senso only is a bummer. So, what does the switch do? Off or Senso? Does the
tail light at least stay on? I've only had senso on the older IQ Fly
lights, and it's OK but turns lights on a little later than I'd prefer.
Overtaking car headlights fool it sometimes, too, even when mounted on the
curb side.

Best,
joe
pdx or

On Tue, Mar 8, 2016 at 6:07 AM, David Banzer  wrote:

> I'm curious about the senso-only mode. Does it work well? My concern would
> be oncoming traffic lights making the IQ think that there's sufficient
> light and switch to daytime lights. Maybe I'm overthinking this one.
> David
> Chicago
>
> On Saturday, March 5, 2016 at 8:33:24 PM UTC-6, Eric Norris wrote:
>>
>> My report thus far on the IQ-X headlight:
>>
>>
>> http://campyonlyguy.blogspot.com/2016/03/busch-and-muller-iq-x-headlight.html
>>
>>
>> --Eric Norris
>> campyo...@me.com
>> www.campyonly.com
>> campyonlyguy.blogspot.com
>>
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Re: [RBW] on bike bag theft

[Joe Broach]

​I'll say my burrito tool wrap has safely navigated the mean streets of
Missoula/PDX over the past 10 years. One time (while working at a bike
co-op)​, someone went through it and took the couple dollars cash
(emergency boots + pay phone + bus fare) but left all the tools and spares.
Probably helps that the burrito is unusual and looks pretty low-key.

Best,
joe in pdx or

On Thu, Mar 3, 2016 at 12:11 PM, Patrick D Kelly 
wrote:

> I'm fishing for stories pro/con dealing with leaving bags "permanently"
> attached to your bike, and if they've been stolen.
>
> I'm contemplating getting a pair of backabike bags and leaving them
> attached (probably with zipties somehow). Anybody ever had any of these (or
> similar) bags stolen off their bike? I'm imagining it's not even worthwhile
> for a thief since they're not gonna get but a few bucks for such a thing.
>
> As a counter-example to what I just said, one time some gloves were stolen
> out of a bag on a bike. In this case, I'm sure it was just cuz the thief
> had to do zero work. Unzip and just grab what was in the bag. That bag was
> seriously attached, and was not stolen.
>
> In my imagination, riv's saddlesacks are "safer" because to somebody
> unfamiliar, it's very confusing. The straps and the 2 layers of flap make
> me think that thieves are not going to go poking around in there. Any
> thoughts/experience on this?
>
> thanks
>
> p.s. Yes, the biggest variable in all this is where/when you leave your
> bike unattended. Let's just pretend that I'm very conservative about
> where/when I leave my bike locked up.
>
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Re: [RBW] Large saddlesack simplest and/or cheapest way to mount on a bike without a rack and no eyelets?

[Joe Broach]

Hey Daniel,

For such light loads, if you have the airspace just hang it from the
saddle. I did that for years with more weight, and the only issue was the
thick leather straps got a little notched and might eventually have worn
through from the sharp Brooks loops. Hanging from a Nitto bag grip or
homemade equivalent would be even mas bueno.

I'm with you on going huge. Still have and love my Baggins Hoss and never
regretted upsizing.

Best,
joe "This post not approved by RivLegal. Using SaddleSacks without multiple
redundant support systems could result in damage to property,
dismemberment, or death. But probably not."
pdx or

On Fri, Feb 26, 2016 at 9:32 PM, Daniel D.  wrote:

> I have three bikes I'd like to use with a saddlesack.  I'd rather buy the
> large not the medium.  But one of the bikes, an older road bike, doesn't
> have eyelets.  Is there a cheap and easy way to get the large saddlesack
> installed on a bike with no rack?  Only going to carry light loads on that
> bike at most 10 pounds.
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Metal fender shaping/cutting advice

[Joe Broach]

I've seen a couple versions of this simple wood form and whacking/clamping
tool. Seems right up your alley, Patrick!

https://www.flickr.com/photos/49353569@N00/16824887851/in/faves-43928148@N00/

https://www.flickr.com/photos/duncancycles/3975211277/in/faves-43928148@N00/

Best,
joe
pdx or


On Thu, Feb 18, 2016 at 4:32 PM, Patrick Moore  wrote:

> Outstanding! Thank you.
>
> On Thu, Feb 18, 2016 at 3:10 PM, Lungimsam  wrote:
>
>> I dont have it but maybe jan will email it to you. He gives out that
>> article with the fenders people buy from compass.
>>
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>
>
>
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>
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>
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Re: [RBW] Shutter Precision PV-8 Dynamo (SP dyno) Hub 36h questions

[Joe Broach]

​
On Fri, Feb 5, 2016 at 5:08 PM, Bill Lindsay  wrote:

>
>> People don't service them.  The hub was designed for 50,000km with zero
> service.  Bike shops can't service them.  You can send the hub back to
> Germany for service.  The hub needs to be removed from the wheel for
> service (no spokes, no rim).
>
> Peter White's page tells that story, in his inimitably wordy style.
> Here's a link to his page:  http://www.peterwhitecycles.com/schmidt.asp
>
> I own three Schmidt hubs and have never had them serviced.  I own two
> Shutter Precision hubs and have never had them serviced.
>

Bill's right for most SON hubs re: unlacing. However, the intermediate
years of SON20/28 (single color, big barrel) need to be laced into a wheel
to disassemble. I know because I was going to send mine back for service
due to a chirp that developed. It never got worse and comes and goes to
this day, so I never actually did it, in part because of shipping both ways.

Best,
joe
pdx or
​​
On Fri, Feb 5, 2016 at 5:08 PM, Bill Lindsay  wrote:

>
>
> On Friday, February 5, 2016 at 4:53:19 PM UTC-8, Daniel Jackson wrote:
>>
>> How often do folks service SON28s?
>>
>> People don't service them.  The hub was designed for 50,000km with zero
> service.  Bike shops can't service them.  You can send the hub back to
> Germany for service.  The hub needs to be removed from the wheel for
> service (no spokes, no rim).
>
> Peter White's page tells that story, in his inimitably wordy style.
> Here's a link to his page:  http://www.peterwhitecycles.com/schmidt.asp
>
> I own three Schmidt hubs and have never had them serviced.  I own two
> Shutter Precision hubs and have never had them serviced.
>
> Bill Lindsay
> El Cerrito, CA
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Dyno light recommendation

[Joe Broach]

Hi Doug,

Re: why some still use dynamo hubs

Gone are the days when dynamo hubs were "
​
575 to 720 grams and cost from $257 to $426." Shutter Precision's hubs are
sub-400g and around $120. Don't forget to subtract the weight of a front
hub, too. The weight penalty for a dyno is a measly 250g or so these days.
And, the head and tail lights are superlight!

How much do all those batteries weigh again?

But, more to your question, it's mostly convenience and range anxiety for
me. I already have enough gadgets to recharge. Definitely don't need
four(!) more. And, even though I rarely do it any more, I still enjoy
riding through the night without worrying that one of my batteries will
give out.

I'm glad to know about the new battery options, though. Sounds like they've
gotten better!

Best,
joe
pdx or



On Fri, Jan 29, 2016 at 4:52 PM, Doug Williams 
wrote:

> Warning: Heresy and Impiety follow! I know that we are all retro-grouches
> here and my AHH shifts 8-speed friction on Silver’s. Friction shifting will
> never die so long as I live. But I honestly think that technology has left
> dynohubs in the dustbin of history.
>
>
> I run two Ixon Core battery powered (USB rechargeable) lights. Made by
> Busch & Müller; I got them from Peter White, see them here:
> http://www.peterwhitecycles.com/b&m.asp
>
>
> The light output and beam shape are both outstanding. The batteries last
> plenty long too (3 hours on high power and 15 hours on low power). But if
> I’m going on a REALLY long night ride and/or I want to run the lights at
> high-power for the whole ride, I just plug them into my Zendure USB power
> bank battery and I can charge my lights even when they are in use. The
> Zendure’s come in several sizes from 6,700mAh to 25,600mAh and weights from
> 136 grams to 725 grams (for the really ridiculously powered model). The
> thing is, even the small ones are enough to run my phone for navigation
> (Ride with GPS sucks power in navigation mode) and my lights at full power
> for much longer than I need. I keep the Zendure in my Sackville TrunkSack
> Small and the lights and bag are both mounted on my front Mark’s Rack.
>
>
> ​​
> Dyno hubs on Peter’s website weigh from
> ​​
> 575 to 720 grams and cost from $257 to $426. USB battery banks like the
> Zendure weigh less and cost less than a dynohub. They also power more stuff
> (mostly 2 outputs but 4 on the big one) than a dynohub. They provide power
> for as long as a mortal can ride and don't require a special wheel.
>
>
> So…why do we still ride dynohubs?
>
>
> Doug
>
>
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Re: [RBW] do these bars look too high?

[Joe Broach]

Hey Pete,

There's a lot to be said for having the drops near saddle height,
especially off road. Just make sure the stem wedge is safely below the fork
threads. It's not enough to hide the max height mark, especially with Riv's
extra headset spacers. Yours looks close to my eye.

Best,
joe in pdx or

Caveat lector. Sent from a phone.
On Dec 16, 2015 11:30 AM, "Pete Porvaz"  wrote:

> https://c2.staticflickr.com/6/5836/23051338044_2cd564a8af_n.jpg
>
> I'm really liking my newly mounted dirt drop stem. It's not a simple
> change but for me was so worth it. Next up something to wrap on the tops
> where I do most of my riding.
> Thought about a different bar but I just like the noodle bar. It does look
> waay up there!
> Pete
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Ch-ch-ch-changes... in 2016

[Joe Broach]

Joe,

high trail <> low trail
fat tubes <> skinny tubes

So, still pretty different! But, agree that the mission statement would be
similar.

Best,
joe in pdx or



On Thu, Dec 17, 2015 at 1:06 PM, Joe Bartoe  wrote:

> Isn't a braze-on racer hilsen the same thing as an Ocean Air Cycles
> Rambler?
>
> Joe
>
> --
> Date: Thu, 17 Dec 2015 12:15:03 -0800
> From: stone...@gmail.com
> To: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
> Subject: [RBW] Re: Ch-ch-ch-changes... in 2016
>
>
> Agree, 100%.  Love my Hilsen - would love it even more with braze-on
> centerpulls.
>
> On Thursday, December 17, 2015 at 6:56:59 AM UTC-8, Matthew J wrote:
>
> Repeating what I said in an earlier post:  A Hilsen with braze on Paul
> RacerMs would be quite the bike!
>
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Smart Guys: Bicycle Helmets Reduce Injuries

[Joe Broach]

And, mea culpa, I just broke my own rule of reading the whole thread before
commenting. I see others pointed this out already and didn't mean to pile
on Eric. I appreciated the link.  -joe in pdx

Caveat lector. Sent from a phone.
On Nov 23, 2015 9:00 AM, "Joe Broach"  wrote:

> On Nov 23, 2015 6:16 AM, "Eric Norris"  wrote:
> >
> > Well said, Steve. Nobody is suggesting mandatory helmets--on bikes, in
> the shower, or elsewhere.
>
> Yes they are--in the article you linked to, the paper authors are quoted
> "As a result of their findings, Drs. Haider and Joseph said that the next
> step is to create injury prevention programs to increase helmet use among
> bicyclists, to manufacture better helmets, and to develop and enforce
> stricter laws for helmet use."
>
> Interesting study design and findings, but their recommendations are
> unfortunate.
>
> Best,
> joe in pdx or
>
> > Eric N
> > www.CampyOnly.com
> > CampyOnlyGuy.blogspot.com
> > Twitter: @CampyOnlyGuy
> >
> > On Nov 23, 2015, at 5:10 AM, Steve Palincsar  wrote:
> >
> >> When did mandatory helmet laws enter this discussion?  I didn't read
> the article all that closely, but the gist of it as I recall it is that the
> wearing of helmets was in fact effective in the cases cited.  That itself
> has been called in question in the past, and it is worthwhile attempting to
> answer it.  And within that context, the introduction of mandatory helmet
> laws/helmet wars is an irrelevant distraction.  One can be for the wearing
> of helmets but against mandatory helmet laws; I am and I know many others
> who feel the same way.  In fact, although I know many, many helmet users I
> don't know anyone who favors criminalizing the not wearing of them.
> >>
> >> On 11/23/2015 12:19 AM, Doug Williams wrote:
> >>>
> >>> Hey, I wear my helmet all the time, but…The article fails to mention
> several OTHER important facts. Because of this, the study simply can’t be
> taken seriously. You simply can’t pick only the facts that support your
> desired conclusion; you must weigh all the facts. Those advocating helmet
> laws can't ignore other inconvenient facts that don’t support their
> conclusion. That’s not how science works, and anyone who ignores
> established and pertinent facts when making their conclusion shouldn’t be
> taken seriously. Let’s start by granting their single fact that helmets may
> reduce injuries in the event of a crash. This single fact has to be weighed
> against the other proven facts before we can arrive at a conclusion that
> mandatory helmet laws save lives.
> >>>
> >>>
> >>> Fact 1: Mandatory Helmet Laws reduced ridership. This has been proven
> over and over again in study after study.
> >>>
> >>>
> >>> Fact 2: Bicycling in general is safer with more bicycles on the road.
> Drivers get used to seeing bicycles and become accustomed to them. The
> drivers then act more safely around bicycles. This is also well documented.
> >>>
> >>>
> >>> Fact 3: Bicycling is much safer than they represent when the risk of
> bicycle injury is weighed against other known risks. Many, many, more
> people would be saved by mandatory helmet laws for pedestrians and
> motorists. Around 4,500 pedestrians and 45,000 motorists are killed in
> accidents each year in the U.S. The percentage of these people who would
> have reduced injuries with a helmet is similar to that for bicyclists. Why
> not save these people as well? I’ll take these people seriously when they
> propose a UNIVERSAL helmet law for everyone instead of just for bicyclists.
> >>>
> >>>
> >>> Fact 4: Around 600 bicyclists die each year in the U.S. but well over
> 300,000 die of obesity and lack of exercise related diseases. The reduced
> ridership caused by mandatory helmet laws would cause more deaths from
> reduced health status than would be saved by helmets.
> >>>
> >>> All “studies” that argue for mandatory helmet laws ignore the above
> facts. Find me a study that doesn’t and then we can reopen the helmet wars.
> In the meantime…yawn.
> >>>
> >>>
> >>> On Sunday, November 22, 2015 at 7:02:05 PM UTC-8, Eric Norris wrote:
> >>>>
> >>>> Not that this is going to change a single mind on the subject, but it
> is perhaps of interest to some:
> >>>>
> >>>> https://www.facs.org/media/press-releases/2015/haider
> >>>>
> >>>> And yes, I realize that the helmet and non-helmet camps have firmly
> established their ent

Re: [RBW] Re: Smart Guys: Bicycle Helmets Reduce Injuries

[Joe Broach]

On Nov 23, 2015 6:16 AM, "Eric Norris"  wrote:
>
> Well said, Steve. Nobody is suggesting mandatory helmets--on bikes, in
the shower, or elsewhere.

Yes they are--in the article you linked to, the paper authors are quoted
"As a result of their findings, Drs. Haider and Joseph said that the next
step is to create injury prevention programs to increase helmet use among
bicyclists, to manufacture better helmets, and to develop and enforce
stricter laws for helmet use."

Interesting study design and findings, but their recommendations are
unfortunate.

Best,
joe in pdx or

> Eric N
> www.CampyOnly.com
> CampyOnlyGuy.blogspot.com
> Twitter: @CampyOnlyGuy
>
> On Nov 23, 2015, at 5:10 AM, Steve Palincsar  wrote:
>
>> When did mandatory helmet laws enter this discussion?  I didn't read the
article all that closely, but the gist of it as I recall it is that the
wearing of helmets was in fact effective in the cases cited.  That itself
has been called in question in the past, and it is worthwhile attempting to
answer it.  And within that context, the introduction of mandatory helmet
laws/helmet wars is an irrelevant distraction.  One can be for the wearing
of helmets but against mandatory helmet laws; I am and I know many others
who feel the same way.  In fact, although I know many, many helmet users I
don't know anyone who favors criminalizing the not wearing of them.
>>
>> On 11/23/2015 12:19 AM, Doug Williams wrote:
>>>
>>> Hey, I wear my helmet all the time, but…The article fails to mention
several OTHER important facts. Because of this, the study simply can’t be
taken seriously. You simply can’t pick only the facts that support your
desired conclusion; you must weigh all the facts. Those advocating helmet
laws can't ignore other inconvenient facts that don’t support their
conclusion. That’s not how science works, and anyone who ignores
established and pertinent facts when making their conclusion shouldn’t be
taken seriously. Let’s start by granting their single fact that helmets may
reduce injuries in the event of a crash. This single fact has to be weighed
against the other proven facts before we can arrive at a conclusion that
mandatory helmet laws save lives.
>>>
>>>
>>> Fact 1: Mandatory Helmet Laws reduced ridership. This has been proven
over and over again in study after study.
>>>
>>>
>>> Fact 2: Bicycling in general is safer with more bicycles on the road.
Drivers get used to seeing bicycles and become accustomed to them. The
drivers then act more safely around bicycles. This is also well documented.
>>>
>>>
>>> Fact 3: Bicycling is much safer than they represent when the risk of
bicycle injury is weighed against other known risks. Many, many, more
people would be saved by mandatory helmet laws for pedestrians and
motorists. Around 4,500 pedestrians and 45,000 motorists are killed in
accidents each year in the U.S. The percentage of these people who would
have reduced injuries with a helmet is similar to that for bicyclists. Why
not save these people as well? I’ll take these people seriously when they
propose a UNIVERSAL helmet law for everyone instead of just for bicyclists.
>>>
>>>
>>> Fact 4: Around 600 bicyclists die each year in the U.S. but well over
300,000 die of obesity and lack of exercise related diseases. The reduced
ridership caused by mandatory helmet laws would cause more deaths from
reduced health status than would be saved by helmets.
>>>
>>> All “studies” that argue for mandatory helmet laws ignore the above
facts. Find me a study that doesn’t and then we can reopen the helmet wars.
In the meantime…yawn.
>>>
>>>
>>> On Sunday, November 22, 2015 at 7:02:05 PM UTC-8, Eric Norris wrote:

 Not that this is going to change a single mind on the subject, but it
is perhaps of interest to some:

 https://www.facs.org/media/press-releases/2015/haider

 And yes, I realize that the helmet and non-helmet camps have firmly
established their entrenched positions, which have been expressed many
times on this forum.

 --Eric Norris
 campyo...@me.com
 www.campyonly.com
 campyonlyguy.blogspot.com

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Re: [RBW] Re: Racks for the Clem

[Joe Broach]

>
> ​On Sat, Oct 31, 2015 at 1:53 AM, Tim Wood  wrote:
> I just realized that my Tubus Tara won't work on the Clem without
> installing mid fork clamps.
>
> Does anyone know how the surly front rack would line up with the higher
> fork braze ons on the Clem?  What about the mid fork struts on the new soma
> porteur deluxe?  Maybe I'll have to pony up for the nitto campee with the
> removable low riders. I want to be able to run a basket and panniers up
> front.
>
> Why does rivendell have to be different and mount their braze ons higher
> that the majority of manufactures?
>

Hi Tim,

Riv actually helped set the standard for the high mount braze-ons--those
aren't meant for low-rider racks. Several Nittos and the super smart Haulin
Colin Porteur are meant for the braze-ons on your Clem.

Best,
joe  in pdx or

​​
On Sat, Oct 31, 2015 at 1:53 AM, Tim Wood  wrote:

> I just realized that my Tubus Tara won't work on the Clem without
> installing mid fork clamps.
>
> Does anyone know how the surly front rack would line up with the higher
> fork braze ons on the Clem?  What about the mid fork struts on the new soma
> porteur deluxe?  Maybe I'll have to pony up for the nitto campee with the
> removable low riders. I want to be able to run a basket and panniers up
> front.
>
> Why does rivendell have to be different and mount their braze ons higher
> that the majority of manufactures?
>
> And what about the braze ons on top of the fork crown? Is there a rack
> that attaches there? I think I remember seeing a rando rack that did.
> Cycles Touissant out of Calgary maybe?
>
> So many questions.
>
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Re: [RBW] Recommended for customer service

[Joe Broach]

Patrick or others,

How thick are these wood fenders, and does Cody recommend washers between
fender and frame, or are they tough enough to mount directly? They are
gorgeous, and the flat profile seems safer with knobbies (with the right
hardware).

Best,
joe in pdx or

On Tue, Oct 27, 2015 at 8:44 AM, Patrick Moore  wrote:

> I think I owe Cody of Woody's Fenders a nod onlist/s for his courtesy and
> attention when I asked him numerous questions about getting wooden fenders
> for one of my Rivendells. He sent me a section for fitting trial, and the
> quality looks excellent.
>
> He said he would charge me $150 for a custom 26" pair without hardware (as
> I had thought of fitting Berthoud hardware to mine, had I bought some).
>
> (As it is, for reasons of space, I've decided to first try adapting metal
> or, if need be, plastic fenders.)
>
> http://www.woodysfenders.com/store/
>
> --
> Resumes, LinkedIn profiles, bios, and letters that get interviews.
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> Alburquerque, Nouvelle Mexique,  Vereinigte Staaten
>
> *
> *The point which is the pivot of the norm is the motionless center of a
> circumference on the rim of which all conditions, distinctions, and
> individualities revolve. *Chuang Tzu
>
> *Stat crux dum volvitur orbis.* Carthusian motto
>
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: All arounder Handlebar recommendations GO!

[Joe Broach]

On Fri, Oct 16, 2015 at 3:37 PM, I wrote:

> Surlyprof,
>
> Re: lever rattle, Have you removed the plastic cable installation guide
> from lever body? Apparently it's only use is speeding factory assemblies.
> Mine have been gone for 10k happy, buzz and rattle free miles! Here's an
> old i-bob thread about it:
>
> https://groups.google.com/forum/#!topic/internet-bob/THW_gw6tLf4
> My Ultegra levers had the same design, and it drive me crazy until I
> learned this--quiet ever since.
>

​And, here's a photo
 of the
offending bit. Thanks, Internet!  -joe in pdx​


>
> On Fri, Oct 16, 2015 at 2:19 PM, Surlyprof  wrote:
>
>> When I went from albatross to albastache, I dropped down from a 110 stem
>> to an 80 based on Sean's recommendation at Riv.  The 30mm reduction was
>> perfect.  My only regret was not spending a little more on the brake
>> levers.  The Tiagras tend to rattle a little.
>>
>> John
>>
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>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: All arounder Handlebar recommendations GO!

[Joe Broach]

Surlyprof,

Re: lever rattle, Have you removed the plastic cable installation guide
from lever body? Apparently it's only use is speeding factory assemblies.
Mine have been gone for 10k happy, buzz and rattle free miles! Here's an
old i-bob thread about it:

https://groups.google.com/forum/#!topic/internet-bob/THW_gw6tLf4
My Ultegra levers had the same design, and it drive me crazy until I
learned this--quiet ever since.

Best,
joe in pdx or

On Fri, Oct 16, 2015 at 2:19 PM, Surlyprof  wrote:

> When I went from albatross to albastache, I dropped down from a 110 stem
> to an 80 based on Sean's recommendation at Riv.  The 30mm reduction was
> perfect.  My only regret was not spending a little more on the brake
> levers.  The Tiagras tend to rattle a little.
>
> John
>
> --
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Re: [RBW] '03, Chauncey-modified, Honjo-fendered

[Joe Broach]

Dr Moore,

Get those fender lines right! They're backward--lefty tighty, righty loosey
for fenders (i.e. don't let anything in that can't get out!). But,
seriously, your Rivs are ones of a kind and always fabulous.

Best,
joe in pdx or

On Fri, Sep 11, 2015 at 4:07 PM, Patrick Moore  wrote:

> I got the described 650B X 48 fenders for a *very *good price -- $65
> shipped Priority, 2 days -- from Clymb (who claim that every shipment is
> "carbon neutral" -- some sort of high tech frame feature, I guess).
>
> But! The damned things seem long enough and wide enough in arc to be 700Cs
> -- look at the length of the un-amputated front: no need for a flap on this
> one! And lined up against the 700C X 51 Furious Fred wheels on the Fargo,
> the arc seemed much closer than with my 559 X sub-28s. I guess I should
> have held out for, paid for, and waited for, 650B X 40 stainless steel
> Berthouds from PJW. Oh well.
>
> I tweaked, massaged, flared, and coaxed the front into the arc you see --
> it took a lot of work, and there is, alas, still tension in the metal: I
> just hope that it is slight enough that the fender will remain intact.
>
> On the rear it was easier, since I in fact wanted the arc to be
> considerably wider than the tire, since this is a fixed gear with very long
> dropouts and, perhaps eventually, a very wide cog spread.
>
> Also, I wanted to amputate the rear just for'ard of the rear-most
> extension of the tire: this so that, when I shove the bike into the back of
> my PT Cruiser, it don't bend the fender. I think this length is long enough
> not to look strange and yet to provide full coverage for me and bike (any
> following riders are wheelsuckers are deserve anything they get).
>
> Damn! I spent 5 1/3 hours installing these fenders, and I've installed
> many metal as well as plastic fenders in the past. The Honjos are
> deliciously light, but also deliciously delicate compared to the stainless
> steel Berthouds and, beside the arc, I had to contend with the 48 mm width
> which is, really, 5 mm more than my frame really likes.
>
> Bike as shown, sans Zefal HpX and Banzer Bag is 24 lb; the pump and BB add
> 1.5 lb more.
>
> Not bad!
>
>
>
> --
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> Alburquerque, Nouvelle Mexique,  Vereinigte Staaten
>
> *
> *The point which is the pivot of the norm is the motionless center of a
> circumference on the rim of which all conditions, distinctions, and
> individualities revolve. *Chuang Tzu
>
> *Stat crux dum volvitur orbis.* Carthusian motto
>
>
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Re: [RBW] Compass Elk Pass tires on 2003 custom

[Joe Broach]

Hi Patrick,

Thanks for the report on the EPs. Bummer that they're coming in undersized.
I was thinking about them as replacements for the old Avocets on the 92
XO-1 in our fleet, but I want to stick to 32s. What did the Kojaks measure?

Best,
joe in pdx or

On Sat, Sep 5, 2015 at 5:20 PM, Patrick Moore  wrote:

> 32 miles this afternoon on a new pair of Elk Passes. They do feel ("feel")
> faster than the Kojaks but, interesting, I the difference is more apparent
> when climbing than on the flats; though they do feel faster on the flats,
> too -- just not as big a difference in "feel" on the flats compared to the
> Pro Race 3s; the PR 3s, OTOH, felt very good climbing.
>
> 5 of the 32 miles were sandy dirt, though the sand is packed because of
> recent rains. No problems, though 50 mm is of course better for such
> terrain.
>
> The EPs measure just under 29 mm on the Sun/Ringle "Equalizers, 21 mm
> outside, compared to just under 27.5 mm on the 19 outside Sun M14As.
> Definitely narrower than labeled, though as far as my tastes go, 28 mm is a
> real sweet spot.
>
> 55/60 feels good; 60 rear carried a ~25 lb rear load quite well. I find
> that I like the EPs about 5 psi lower than the Kojaks.
>
> The EPs newly installed on the Equalizers run just shy of 24.75" in
> diameter, compared to about 24.8 for the Kojaks on the same rims. (The 650C
> Pro Race 3s on 19 mm outside rims measured 24.5".)
>
> I may compare the Kojaks tubeless versus the EPs with tubes and sealant --
> I wonder how that would feel. I read a "test" recently that compared
> tubulars, clinchers with tubes, and the same clinchers without tubes, and
> according to this test -- some 5 tires or so -- there is a noticeable
> improvement when you remove the tubes. I wish the EPs could be run
> tubeless, but I'm not complaining!
>
> Thumbs up!
>
> How many miles are you mid-weights (I'm 170) getting from REAR mid-width
> Compass Extra Light tires?
>
> --
> Resumes, LinkedIn profiles, bios, and letters that get interviews.
> By-the-hour resume and LinkedIn coaching.
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>
> *
> *The point which is the pivot of the norm is the motionless center of a
> circumference on the rim of which all conditions, distinctions, and
> individualities revolve. *Chuang Tzu
>
> *Stat crux dum volvitur orbis.* Carthusian motto
>
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Re: [RBW] Next Bomba Tire

[Joe Broach]

Hey Hudson,

Did you get fenders to fit over the Burts or are you just going without?

Best,
joe in pdx

On Mon, Aug 31, 2015 at 5:06 PM, 'Hudson Doerge' via RBW Owners Bunch <
rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com> wrote:

> Plus one on the thunder burt recommendation. Love em. Replaced compass
> babyshoe pass on my elephant NFE and the difference in speed is hardly
> noticeable, but the improvement in comfort over bumps is distinct. Compared
> with compass at least I've found them to be quite long wearing all the
> things considered. All that being said once these wear out I may make the
> change to compass switchback hills. Doing my best not to buy new bike
> things unless it's replacing something that's worn out.
>
> Hudson in atx.
>
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Re: [RBW] How to get out Brooks sit bone divets sop the rear frame down;t dig into my rear end.

[Joe Broach]

Lungimsam,

In my recent experience (n=6, including B17s & Flyers), Brooks below the
Champion Special/Select/Pro level are disposable saddles. The leather gives
out in a year of hard riding. You can lace/tension/reform, but it'll never
be as nice as the models with better leather. That said, report back if you
find a way to revive it!

Best,
joe broach
pdx or

On Sun, Aug 30, 2015 at 8:57 AM, Lungimsam  wrote:

> So I have only had this saddle for 10 months and I have divots where the
> sit bones sit to the point of feeling the rear of the frame dig into my
> rear end when I ride now.
>
> People say these saddles last for 20 years or so. But mine is becoming
> unrideable at this point.
>
> Any advice?
>
> It is a sprung Flyer, so I am not sure if tension bolt tightening will
> help. Wondering if the springs will just rise with the tensioning, making
> the saddle more concave and the rear frame piece more pronounced.
>
> Anyone have experience with this? Any solutions?
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Searching for a cheapo saddle with B17 like fit

[Joe Broach]

>
> ​On Wed, Jul 15, 2015 at 8:18 AM, Joe Broach  wrote:
>
> Count me as one who finds the WTB SST pretty close to a B17. You can't
> really compare plastic and leather saddle widths directly because of the
> leather saddles' frames and rivets. The SST is about 145mm wide, about
> identical to a b17 between the rivets.
>
> I haven't taken mine on a long ride yet, but for a 6 mile commute, it's a
> great b17 stand in. They came on some complete surlys at some point, so
> shops might have take offs.
>
​Bumping this thread to update my B17 to SST experience. I just finished my
first long ride on the SST after 10 happy years on B17s. The SST gave me no
trouble over two days and 130 miles in regular shorts. For me, at least, it
works as a B17 alternative that I don't have to worry about getting wet​
and worry less about getting stolen. Mine has the synthetic cover, and it's
quite a bit less slick than a Brooks. The result is kind of a wash for
me--easier to stay put when you want but also harder to slide around when
you want that.

Best,
joe broach
pdx or


​​
On Wed, Jul 15, 2015 at 8:18 AM, Joe Broach  wrote:

> Count me as one who finds the WTB SST pretty close to a B17. You can't
> really compare plastic and leather saddle widths directly because of the
> leather saddles' frames and rivets. The SST is about 145mm wide, about
> identical to a b17 between the rivets.
>
> I haven't taken mine on a long ride yet, but for a 6 mile commute, it's a
> great b17 stand in. They came on some complete surlys at some point, so
> shops might have take offs.
>
> Best,
> joe broach
> pdx or
>
> Caveat lector. Sent from a phone.
> On Jul 15, 2015 6:24 AM, "Kieran J"  wrote:
>
>> Were these not fairly narrow in the rear section though? I had one SST.X
>> and it was OK but not nearly the same shape or width as a B17. Maybe mine
>> was one of the later variants.
>>
>> Another worth considering is a Vetta SL from the 90's. Quality
>> lightweight saddle with a wide cantle area.
>>
>> They come fairly cheaply online:
>> Here's one in Canada
>> <http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-1993-VETTA-SL-Italian-Road-Saddle-Black-Leather-Manganese-248g-160mm-/400956726502?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_2&hash=item5d5ae21ce6>
>>
>> KJ
>>
>>
>> On Monday, July 13, 2015 at 7:47:11 PM UTC-4, Cyclofiend Jim wrote:
>>>
>>> Keep an eye out for the old WTB SST saddles - the ones with the "melted"
>>> looking nose.  Those were pretty close, fairly unpadded (though they made a
>>> monster number of derivations of it over the years).
>>>
>>> Wish I'd known - I had a set of three or four old, nasty, peeling, SST's
>>> which I donated to the local recyclery a while back.
>>>
>>> - Jim
>>>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Need advice for avoiding embarrassing Brooks saddle stain...

[Joe Broach]

To counter those saying just wear dark shorts, I've never had any color
transfer from honey Brooks in tens of thousands of miles, including plenty
of sweaty tours and rainy commutes. If you have something other than honey,
give that a try before you resort to covers or black shorts. I have had
color transfer from a black Fujita/Belt saddle, even after years of use.
Covers kill half the benefits of a leather saddle to me--breathability and
lack of friction.

Best,
joe broach
pdx or

On Sun, Jul 26, 2015 at 8:27 PM, dougP  wrote:

> Darker shorts.  Gray, dark blue, olive, etc.  No tan or lightish colors.
> This is the voice of experience.  A friend's somewhat sarcastic spouse
> suggested I was perhaps a bit too relaxed on the bike because my light
> shorts had a similar stain.
>
> dougP
>
> On Sunday, July 26, 2015 at 12:36:41 PM UTC-7, Zach Duval wrote:
>>
>> I cycle. I cycle with a comfy, well-broken-in Brooks on my Sam, and due
>> to the comfortable nature of this setup, I cycle in my day-to-day shorts. I
>> sweat while cycling longish or hardish rides, and enjoy such rides.
>> However, I discover afterwards that I'be been left with a saddle-shaped
>> brown mark on my rear.
>>
>> I here turn over my embarrassing predicament for the wisdom of Rivfolk.
>> Any advice?
>>
>> Zach "generally seeking overall good hygeine/cleanliness" Duval
>>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Babyshoe Pass EL's Tubeless on Pacenti SL23's

[Joe Broach]

Proceed with caution, Shoji. I don't think synergies are "tubeless ready"
(i.e. not designed to keep a tire on without a tube). Some people have had
success just putting the sealant in the tube, though.

Best,
joe broach
pdx or

Caveat lector. Sent from a phone.
On Jul 20, 2015 9:39 AM, "Shoji Takahashi" 
wrote:

> Hi Doug,
> I'm considering tubeless set up for my Loup Loup Pass EL (650B x 38) on
> Velocity Synergies. I've had a number of rear-tire flats the past two weeks
> from glass bits. Puts a damper on the nice ride.
>
> For the conversion: did you use the tubeless valves and stan's tape? And
> then add the Orange Seal via injector? Is that really all there is to it?
>
> Thanks for your help/advice,
> Shoji
>
>
>
> On Saturday, July 18, 2015 at 1:40:47 PM UTC-4, Doug Williams wrote:
>>
>> I converted my Babyshoe Pass EL's on Pacenti SL23 rims to tubeless
>> yesterday. So my 58cm 650B Homer is running SMOOTH. Everything is great so
>> far, I'll followup with a long term report after some more miles. Some
>> preliminary observations:
>>
>> From what I had read, I was expecting a battle; but seating the tires was
>> actually quite easy. I didn't want water inside the tires, so I used no
>> soapy water or lubricant of any kind. I had an injector for the Orange Seal
>> sealant, so I added the sealant AFTER the tires were seated. In short, the
>> tires were seated while completely dry. Here is how I did it.
>>
>> First, I seated the tires in the normal manner with an inner tube. Then I
>> broke ONE bead and removed the inner tube. I installed the tubeless tire
>> stem. Then I worked my way around the rim and pulled the loose bead outward
>> on the rim to seat it as best as I could. It wasn't fully seated of course,
>> but somewhat close. Then I just pumped the tire up and seated it, didn't
>> even remove the valve core (as some recommend for faster air flow) because
>> my pump fit the valve stem better with the core in. It was actually quite
>> easy to seat the tire with my floor pump! Full disclosure, I have the high
>> volume Lezyne Dirt Floor Drive Pump, but really I think any floor pump
>> would have worked. My daughter seated one of the tires and I seated the
>> other. Easy both times. I think the key is to have one bead completely on
>> and the second bead pulled in close like I did.
>>
>> So far I'm quite satisfied with tubeless. My goal was to avoid having to
>> use a heavy commuter tire because I really love the ride of the Babyshoe
>> Pass EL's. I see no weight savings with tubeless and I don't care. If there
>> is a difference in performance I can't tell. I was already using Schwalbe
>> SV14 light (130 gram) inner tubes and the ride was sweet (when I didn't
>> flat). I'm interested only in flat protection because with all the goat
>> heads and other thorns around here flats were annoyingly common with tubes.
>> I probably used more Orange Seal than necessary, but we will see. I'll
>> probably carry two inner tubes and a patch kit as emergency backup, so
>> again...no weight savings. But if I don't get flats, it will be worth it. I
>> use my bike to commute to work. It is only 5 miles each direction, but I
>> get up early and extend my morning commute somewhere fun to get a 90 minute
>> or so morning ride. I don't want to be fixing a flat out in the boonies at
>> dawn before work. Been there, done that!
>>
>> So hopefully tubeless will be the answer for me...time will tell.
>>
>> Doug
>>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Searching for a cheapo saddle with B17 like fit

[Joe Broach]

Count me as one who finds the WTB SST pretty close to a B17. You can't
really compare plastic and leather saddle widths directly because of the
leather saddles' frames and rivets. The SST is about 145mm wide, about
identical to a b17 between the rivets.

I haven't taken mine on a long ride yet, but for a 6 mile commute, it's a
great b17 stand in. They came on some complete surlys at some point, so
shops might have take offs.

Best,
joe broach
pdx or

Caveat lector. Sent from a phone.
On Jul 15, 2015 6:24 AM, "Kieran J"  wrote:

> Were these not fairly narrow in the rear section though? I had one SST.X
> and it was OK but not nearly the same shape or width as a B17. Maybe mine
> was one of the later variants.
>
> Another worth considering is a Vetta SL from the 90's. Quality lightweight
> saddle with a wide cantle area.
>
> They come fairly cheaply online:
> Here's one in Canada
> <http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-1993-VETTA-SL-Italian-Road-Saddle-Black-Leather-Manganese-248g-160mm-/400956726502?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_2&hash=item5d5ae21ce6>
>
> KJ
>
>
> On Monday, July 13, 2015 at 7:47:11 PM UTC-4, Cyclofiend Jim wrote:
>>
>> Keep an eye out for the old WTB SST saddles - the ones with the "melted"
>> looking nose.  Those were pretty close, fairly unpadded (though they made a
>> monster number of derivations of it over the years).
>>
>> Wish I'd known - I had a set of three or four old, nasty, peeling, SST's
>> which I donated to the local recyclery a while back.
>>
>> - Jim
>>
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Re: [RBW] sf-la ride report, gear review

[Joe Broach]

Thanks for the write-up and gear review. That Nemo looks slick. I like my
bivy ok for stealth camping, but there's something weird about crawling
into a sack in an actual campground. Nemo looks more natural there.  -joe
in pdx

Caveat lector. Sent from a phone.
On Jul 2, 2015 10:43 PM, "drew"  wrote:

> first off, thanks for all the suggestions in the planning post for this
> trip. it was great and brutal and fun and all that stuff. i learned,
> despite my desires, that i don't really stop and take pictures AND moreso,
> when i do, they are not that good. so, i gained a new appreciation for
> everyone who does post amazing pictures here. extra respect if you're
> carrying around a real camera. i brought mine, but didnt get it out once.
> the only reason i even put these on flickr is to encourage myself to start
> backing up photos in some way.
> pictures of proof HERE 
>
> anyway, a lot of you have done this ride already, so i thought i'd make
> this more of a gear review of things i hemmed and hawed about. things that
> dont have a ton of information and reviews out there.
> first and foremost, the hunqapillar was a worthy and loyal companion. i
> feel closer to it now than ever before. right before leaving i put on a
> sprung brooks, which resulted in pretty much zero butt pain, marathon
> supremes which were flatless and cushy enough, and a medium saddlesack
> which was able to fit 95% of the camping gear. left hand went numb about
> halfway through and i wish i had brought some gloves. other than that,
> smooth sailing.
>
> ok:
> *nemo gogo bivy tent thing*- loved it. its bigger than a bivy and
> slightly smaller than a tent. the arch is inflatable with no poles, making
> take down/pack down sooo easy and fast. it packs into a small compression
> sack really easy. i can see hot weather+warm body=condensation, but i got
> zero in 60-75 temps. the inflatable part is really robust and it has a
> patch kit just in case. highly recommended for fast and light travel.
> *goal zero solar panel-* just got the panel w/o battery. in retrospect,
> because of my weird/dropped/got-wet-too-many-times phone that has a hard
> time consistently charging, the battery wouldve been a good addition. also
> really liked this set up. clipped it to the front or rear and left devices
> in the little pouch and had power the entire trip.
> *jandd mini mountain panniers*- had these up front and they were rock
> solid. oddly, they were somewhat bigger than i needed, but they did the job
> with zero issues over lots of bouncy terrain
> *woolpower socks- *brought 3 pairs, wore only one the entire time. filthy
> but zero smells
> *cheapish wool/poly blend boxers from "core4element"-*previously had a
> bad run with all wool boxers that ripped after 2 rides. decided to try
> these that were a little thicker and had some polyester mixed in. results
> were definitely more durable. very comfortable, moisture wicking,
> breathable etc. they acquired butt stench fairly easily, though not as bad
> as synthetic.
> *wool t shirts by "nau"-*thin, breathable, comfortable, resisted BO.
> unfortunately, nearing the end, they had started to disintegratenot
> worth 30$
> *acorn tool roll*- super smart design. carried it like a mini pannier
> *"bicycling the pacific coast"-* infuriatingly useless the majority of
> the time, yet a real life saver on occassion. there has got to be a better
> carry-along book/map/guide for this trip.
> *stanley pot/cup-*super cheap and small boiling pot with 2 nesting dbl
> wall cups. i took a cup out and used the extra space to store the extra
> alcohol for the stove. used this every day. great buy 15$$$
> 
>
>
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: 63cm Canti-Romulus part out

[Joe Broach]

Disclaimer: my canti-rom's been my main bike for 10 years

With that out of the way: Somebody snap this up. I don't know why the Roms
seem to be the ugly duckling Rivs from a resell standpoint. This is a
Toyo-Japan built frame for seven hundred bucks. The year is 2015. Lugged
Taiwanese frames (also great!) go for twice that much. The fit and finish
on the Roms is top notch. They don't fit the super fatties + fenders that
the HIlsen does, but they'll fit 700x40s
<https://www.flickr.com/photos/cyclerslife/14651847681/in/dateposted-public/>
without. Great paint, fork, and light tubing for Riv (8-5-8). I've toyed
with passing mine along because it's a hair small for me, but I'll probably
have it forever.

Best,
joe broach
pdx or



On Fri, Jun 19, 2015 at 5:15 AM, lukeheller  wrote:

> Don't be intimated by this 63cm frame, it's not just for Giants. I am 6'
> with a 34" inseam and 87cm PBH. KNOW YOUR PBH and use the force. IIRC the
> ST is 61 center to center, can check when home if that helps.
>
> I usually ride 58-60cm frames but the 63cm Romulus fit me well. Selling to
> make room for a custom.
>
> ST c-t 63cm
> TT 59.5
> HT angle 73
> ST angle 72
> rake 42.5 cm
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Handlebar Comparison: Albatross, MAP/Ahearne, Jitensha, VO Postino

[Joe Broach]

Hi Ron,

Could you (gu)estimate where the center of the grips end up on the M/A bars
in relation to the stem clamp?

Thanks,
joe broach

Caveat lector. Sent from a phone.
On Jun 7, 2015 2:45 PM, "Ron Mc"  wrote:

> as I said, all these bars except the Albas are the same shape - all
> modeled on the Jones H bar.
> The critical choice is the width.
>
>
> <http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v728/bulldog1935/Raleigh/Viner/aaaP5210003.jpg>
>
> here are the 615mm MAP bars
>
>
> On Sunday, June 7, 2015 at 3:58:18 PM UTC-5, cyclot...@gmail.com wrote:
>>
>> If you want your bars at seat level, the J-bars are great:
>> https://instagram.com/p/3pEEF6RHVY/
>>
>>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Elephant National Park Explorer

[Joe Broach]

Hi Carl,

Obviously no one has the tires yet, but the Rat Trap pass should be a good
fit on the NFE. Clearances are set for 650bx42 + fenders, and the RTPs are
supposed to be the same diameter. There aren't a ton of fender options wide
enough, but there are a few from Honjo and others. I'm definitely planning
to pick up a set of 559 wheels so I can try them out.

Best,
joe broach
pdx or

On Sat, Jun 6, 2015 at 1:05 PM, Carl Otto Wollin  wrote:

> Is it possible to run the Rat Trap Pass with 26 x 2.35 with fenders?
>
> What is the max tires with fenders to squeeze in the rear and front of the
> NFE.
>
> The NFE looks lika an interesting rig as a commuter for all round use with
> studded winter tires and fat pair of slicks.
>
> One rig to mention in this debate are Joshua Bryants new NFD
> http://www.cyclesjbryant.com/
>
> http://bicycletimesmag.com/spotlight-cycles-j-bryant-nfd-bikepacking-bike/ as
> an alternative to the Jones with 650 B plus tires.
>
>
>
> From: marknrei...@gmail.com
> To: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
> Subject: [RBW] Re: Elephant National Park Explorer
>
>
> There were a ton of the NFE on the Oregon Outback and I have to admit I
> was envious. Many were setup just like I had my Atlantis - front panniers,
> rando boxy bag, and a saddle bag. They can fit 2.35 knobbies, or 42 slicks
> with fenders. On the wet descents with the loaded bike, I definitely wanted
> their disc brakes. I have Paul touring canti's with kool stop salmon and
> they were all but useless when we got up to 70km/h with wet rims. The
> finish on them is very good, and they're very light. I'm actually planning
> on buying one next season, but keeping the Atlantis for the real heavy
> lifting.
>
> On Monday, June 1, 2015 at 7:10:55 PM UTC-5, Hudson Doerge wrote:
>
> I absolutely love my first batch NFE. The tubing is perfect for my weight,
> uses, and riding style. The fork is more supple than my previous rawland
> rsogn and my simpleone, but all things aren't equal so it's pretty hard to
> say with certainty. As I understand it, it's possible to make a supple disc
> fork, but very difficult in a production setting. Glen had special mounts
> machined locally to keep the fork as compliant as possible. All I really
> know is that the bike rides wonderfully and was a killer value for a
> domestically made frame. Highly recommend.
>
> Hudson in atx.
>
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: WTB: Nitto Soba Handlebars

[Joe Broach]

Does anyone have the scoop on why Nitto stopped making the Sobas? I love
everything about my Nitto bars except having to untape and dribble oil into
the clamp once a season to them from creaking.

Best,
joe broach
pdx or

On Fri, Jun 5, 2015 at 6:08 PM, Johnny Alien 
wrote:

> Thought I would bump this baby up. I am still looking for this.  Slow and
> steady wins the race.
>
>
> On Monday, June 24, 2013 at 10:57:18 PM UTC-4, Johnny Alien wrote:
>>
>> I am looking for a set of Soba Handlebars.  I am not sure what actual
>> sizes they came in but I am looking for 42 or 44.  Anyone?
>
>  --
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Re: [RBW] Re: Elephant National Park Explorer

[Joe Broach]

Hi Luke,

Funny, my daily rider has been a 63 canti-Rom for years, and I'm looking
forward to trying out my XL stock NFE.

Didn't mean to imply that tubing was identical between stock NFE and Rom.
Both are 8-5-8 OS though. The non-stock NFE's like yours might be different.

My main motivation was more tire clearance and a chance to ride all these
650B tires.

Best,
joe broach
pdx or

Caveat lector. Sent from a phone.
On Jun 3, 2015 7:36 AM, "lukeheller"  wrote:

> I have had my NFE for 2 years and many happy miles. It replaced my 63cm
> Romulus as my primary brevet bike and everyday bike. Well, I still have the
> Romulus but somedays can't figure out why when I typically just ride the
> Elephant anyhow.
>
> My NFE is for 700c wheels and canti-brakes. I got it on the NFE before
> Glen started the stock run of the NFEs. I needed custom geometry anyhow; my
> NFE has a 71.5 STA. Makes my heart smile.
>
> I primarily run 700x35's + fenders and a front rando bag.
> I took it on an 8 day tour down the pacific coast hwy. Handled well though
> not a sure footed when loaded as a dedicated stout touring rig.
> And I run BG Rock ,n Roads on it every now and again.
>
> For a moment, I wished I had gotten it with discs so I could try out 650b
> wheels. That moment passed.
>
>
> That's interesting that Joe B said the NFE and Romulus have the same
> tubing... those have been my 2 primary bikes for 4 years or so now. I'll
> say that I still much prefer the ride of my NFE but I don't know that it's
> due to tubing... I can't really say I notice any difference there. What I
> notice is...
> The Romulus has toe overlap with fenders -the NFE has 0 toe overlap
> with my size 13 hooves and fenders
> The Romulus has more twitchy handling -   +1 for the NFE, stable
> handling, love it
>
> Glen really dialed in the geometry perfectly on my 700c NFE. No toe
> overlap. No pedal strike. STA is perfect, may ass sits right where it wants
> too (Rom is slightly too far forward).
>
> On Tuesday, June 2, 2015 at 12:10:32 PM UTC-4, Jim Bronson wrote:
>>
>> I don't know what the XL standover is but the Elephant folks did offer to
>> work with me on a full custom NFE frame since the stock sizes in their
>> production run will not fit me.  I promised not to divulge any specifics so
>> I won't, but I would recommend calling or emailing them and talking to them
>> about it.
>>
>> I didn't end up getting the frame built, but it wasn't due to a lack of
>> want - the reasons were primarily financial on my side.  I ended up buying
>> that 68 Redwood that was on eBay a while ago - but the Redwood is
>> definitely more of a compromise for the intended task than the NFE would
>> have been.
>>
>> I would contact them and see if they will work with you, if you don't
>> think the stock XL would fit.  Nice folks.
>>
>> On Mon, Jun 1, 2015 at 9:20 PM, Daniel Jackson 
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Anybody out there have an XL Elephant? If so, might you report the
>>> standover?
>>>
>>> Thanks much,
>>> D.
>>>
>>>
>>> On Monday, June 1, 2015 at 6:40:14 PM UTC-6, Mark Reimer wrote:
>>>>
>>>> There were a ton of the NFE on the Oregon Outback and I have to admit I
>>>> was envious. Many were setup just like I had my Atlantis - front panniers,
>>>> rando boxy bag, and a saddle bag. They can fit 2.35 knobbies, or 42 slicks
>>>> with fenders. On the wet descents with the loaded bike, I definitely wanted
>>>> their disc brakes. I have Paul touring canti's with kool stop salmon and
>>>> they were all but useless when we got up to 70km/h with wet rims. The
>>>> finish on them is very good, and they're very light. I'm actually planning
>>>> on buying one next season, but keeping the Atlantis for the real heavy
>>>> lifting.
>>>>
>>>> On Monday, June 1, 2015 at 7:10:55 PM UTC-5, Hudson Doerge wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>> I absolutely love my first batch NFE. The tubing is perfect for my
>>>>> weight, uses, and riding style. The fork is more supple than my previous
>>>>> rawland rsogn and my simpleone, but all things aren't equal so it's pretty
>>>>> hard to say with certainty. As I understand it, it's possible to make a
>>>>> supple disc fork, but very difficult in a production setting. Glen had
>>>>> special mounts machined locally to keep the fork as compliant as possible.
>>>>> All I really know is that the bike rides wonderfully

Re: [RBW] Elephant National Park Explorer

[Joe Broach]

Hi Tony,

The full housing runs are mostly about keeping grit and grime out of
cables. They also allow for hydraulic lines if one goes that route for
braking. An advantage of the top tube cable routing on a front loader like
this is a clear downtube to grab, the best point for lifting a front-heavy
bike over obstacles.

No doubt your Bomba is ready to E the NFs, too! The mission statements are
a little different, though. The stock NFE has the same tubing as my Romulus
(and, I think similar to the Hilsen in the current lineup, amybe a notch
lighter than your Saluki even). It's not a full on tourer like the stouter
Rivs. I'm curious whether the disc fork is as smooth as the one on my Rom,
expect it to be a little harsher.

I got in on the initial run but haven't gotten to build mine yet. Eight
years in the Pac NW has convinced me that discs are worth a try. A neat
advantage is the ability to try a 26" wheelset with the Rat Trap Pass tires
when they come out.

Best,
joe broach
pdx or

On Mon, Jun 1, 2015 at 3:53 PM, Tony DeFilippo  wrote:

> It's an exciting looking bike, makes you think of the places you could go.
> I've not really felt the need for disc brakes so far but they did it w/out
> messing up the aesthetics of the bike and I know it's a big deal to some.
> Does the super long, housed run of the RD cable impact shifting performance
> in any way?  I haven't snagged my shift cables on the DT so far (knock on
> wood) but I suppose I haven't done the kind of extreme terrain this bike
> was intended for.  Bottom line is that when I look at this bike, once the
> 'shiny-new-thing' wave passes I say... my Bombadil could DEFINITELY do
> that!  :)
>
> I think the NFE strikes a strong chord with me to, though my first thought
> w/ that label is my not so successful attempt to go lumberjacking with my
> Saluki last summer!
>
>
> <https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-FK4JqOrGvjw/VWziN7a0U6I/HzQ/2FyF-arbbl0/s1600/DSC_3898.jpg>
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: loaded handling question

[Joe Broach]

Sure, definitely try some different loading strategies with panniers, but I
think other posters area too quick to dismiss a big saddlebag. It's the
only rear load that doesn't have leverage on the rear triangle (as long as
it's mostly hanging from the saddle, with any rack or support just
providing a little stability).

As shown above, it's the only way I've found to carry a 30+/- lb load on a
Riv similar to David's and still be able to ride shimmy free, including the
all important to some of us no hands. Second best had been the big
saddlebag plus front low riders. Rear rack loads even by themselves don't
work for me on this bike. Keep in mind both David and I ride taller frames,
so we may be pushing the boundaries of light tubing more than those on
smaller frames.

Dr. Moore can carry a bushel of watermelons on the rear of an al dente
noodle, all while sipping a glass of cheap merlot. I've not been able to
reach his state of rear-biased nirvana so far. But, the wheel is ever
turning

Good info all around.

Best,
joe broach
pdx or
On May 29, 2015 2:23 PM, "Mike Schiller"  wrote:

> Sounds  like the  option you should try is either front or rear panniers
> with only a light front top load ( no basket) up high. Keeping the weight
> as low as possible.
>
> Every bike/load is different base on how you pack.  Big loads up high are
> a shimmy cause in most cases.
>
> I remember riding down the NorCal coast on my Soma Double Cross with
> everything in rear panniers and the bike tracked like a laser beam.
>
> ~mike
> Carlsbad Ca.
>
>
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Re: [RBW] loaded handling question

[Joe Broach]

With the caveat that I haven't tried a super stiff rear rack (e.g.
Tubus/Nitto), for whatever reason the same weight in the Hoss/Camper is way
less likely to cause shimmy for me on this bike. Part of the issue might be
my big feet (size 12s) mean panniers have to slide pretty far back. Even
with tiny panniers, it took concentration to hold a line. The worst was
when I had a small rubbermaid mounted on top of a light rear rack (Nitto
R15). That would shimmy with just a jacket back there!

In the second photo, I have a one-man tent + groundsheet on the front rack
(except for the poles). I've been using a bivy lately.

Best,
joe broach
pdx or

On Thu, May 28, 2015 at 11:24 PM, cyclotourist 
wrote:

> Thanks JB! I have a Hoss bag just like yours, but don't know what I
> would do w/ the tent if I used it. Although bivies are the new tents!
> Did you ever use panniers, and was that any different than the big
> rear bag? It seems like bag or panniers wouldn't really matter that
> much differently as they are both over the rear axle???
>
> On Thu, May 28, 2015 at 10:49 PM, Joe Broach  wrote:
> > Hi David,
> >
> > My Canti-Rom is probably pretty close in terms of flex (8-5-8 OS, 63cm).
> > I've found rear rack load + any kind of front load unleashes the shimmy
> > monster. It's been best with a big rear saddlebag and light front load.
> OK
> > with big saddlebag + light front rack load + front low-riders. Try a
> giant
> > rear saddlebag and then carefully add to the front is my advice.
> >
> > Best,
> > joe broach
> > pdx or
> >
> > On Thu, May 28, 2015 at 10:10 PM, cyclotourist 
> > wrote:
> >>
> >> Interesting observations!
> >> I have the lugged seatpost just cuz' I love how it looks  :-) I don't
> >> have the saddle all the way back in it as that was never the
> >> intention, but can try moving it a touch forward. I ride loaded pretty
> >> rarely, so for 98.7% of my riding everything is fine.
> >>
> >> FWIW my Quickbeam with Jitensha bars and a front load rides fine
> >> no-handed. But that's w/out a rear load at all.
> >>
> >> On Thu, May 28, 2015 at 9:57 PM, sameness  wrote:
> >> > You have a lugged Nitto seat post, so I'm guessing you are looking for
> >> > more
> >> > setback than something bog standard of that vintage (late '90s-early
> >> > '00s?)
> >> > natively affords.
> >> >
> >> > None of this helps you with no-hands, something I've never been able
> to
> >> > accomplish confidently on any GP design ('92 X0-1, '99 Road Custom). I
> >> > am
> >> > also bad at bikes.
> >> >
> >> > But I have found that if you weight up the front more with RIDER than
> >> > you
> >> > would otherwise given our current collective insight into "Higher,
> >> > shorter,
> >> > backer, better!", you wil peg it down enough to tame the attendant
> >> > geometries o' the age. I can't explain it, but I have $400 in stem,
> bar
> >> > and
> >> > post experiments that are happy to bear witness.
> >> >
> >> > I'm sure someone better at math and geometry and trail and and and
> might
> >> > be
> >> > able to explain/disprove this on paper, but my experience of bikes
> from
> >> > that
> >> > era are that they need some weight up front, and often attendant to
> the
> >> > weight up back.
> >> >
> >> > I spent five years struggling with Albatross bars on my XO-1... until
> I
> >> > went
> >> > with a 13cm stem, kept the height at roughly saddle nose, and moved
> the
> >> > saddle forward everso. Suddenly the squirrel was tamed. The
> further
> >> > forward I was, the less wander-y things got on all counts, loaded or
> >> > not. I
> >> > basically mimicked the load of a lower M-bar, as it was designed for.
> It
> >> > was
> >> > still high(er), it was just further out than made sense.
> >> >
> >> > I even have a rack and basket on the front. Heretofore impossible, if
> >> > not
> >> > still heresy.
> >> >
> >> > Do you ride a lot on the tops or hoods? Go drops, hooks, ramps, put
> more
> >> > weight over the front, and see how you go. Drop the stem an RCH. Move
> >> > the
> >> > saddle up some.
> >> >
> >> > Anyhoo. Our miles may vary.
>

Re: [RBW] loaded handling question

[Joe Broach]

Hi David,

My Canti-Rom is probably pretty close in terms of flex (8-5-8 OS, 63cm).
I've found rear rack load + any kind of front load
<https://www.flickr.com/photos/cyclerslife/2696059023/in/album-72157606334274876/>
unleashes the shimmy monster. It's been best with a big rear saddlebag and
light front load
<https://www.flickr.com/photos/cyclerslife/6066131901/in/album-72157627362415265/>.
OK with big saddlebag + light front rack load + front low-riders
<https://www.flickr.com/photos/cyclerslife/9208621617/in/album-72157634488426216/>.
Try a giant rear saddlebag and then carefully add to the front is my
advice.

Best,
joe broach
pdx or

On Thu, May 28, 2015 at 10:10 PM, cyclotourist 
wrote:

> Interesting observations!
> I have the lugged seatpost just cuz' I love how it looks  :-) I don't
> have the saddle all the way back in it as that was never the
> intention, but can try moving it a touch forward. I ride loaded pretty
> rarely, so for 98.7% of my riding everything is fine.
>
> FWIW my Quickbeam with Jitensha bars and a front load rides fine
> no-handed. But that's w/out a rear load at all.
>
> On Thu, May 28, 2015 at 9:57 PM, sameness  wrote:
> > You have a lugged Nitto seat post, so I'm guessing you are looking for
> more
> > setback than something bog standard of that vintage (late '90s-early
> '00s?)
> > natively affords.
> >
> > None of this helps you with no-hands, something I've never been able to
> > accomplish confidently on any GP design ('92 X0-1, '99 Road Custom). I am
> > also bad at bikes.
> >
> > But I have found that if you weight up the front more with RIDER than you
> > would otherwise given our current collective insight into "Higher,
> shorter,
> > backer, better!", you wil peg it down enough to tame the attendant
> > geometries o' the age. I can't explain it, but I have $400 in stem, bar
> and
> > post experiments that are happy to bear witness.
> >
> > I'm sure someone better at math and geometry and trail and and and might
> be
> > able to explain/disprove this on paper, but my experience of bikes from
> that
> > era are that they need some weight up front, and often attendant to the
> > weight up back.
> >
> > I spent five years struggling with Albatross bars on my XO-1... until I
> went
> > with a 13cm stem, kept the height at roughly saddle nose, and moved the
> > saddle forward everso. Suddenly the squirrel was tamed. The further
> > forward I was, the less wander-y things got on all counts, loaded or
> not. I
> > basically mimicked the load of a lower M-bar, as it was designed for. It
> was
> > still high(er), it was just further out than made sense.
> >
> > I even have a rack and basket on the front. Heretofore impossible, if not
> > still heresy.
> >
> > Do you ride a lot on the tops or hoods? Go drops, hooks, ramps, put more
> > weight over the front, and see how you go. Drop the stem an RCH. Move the
> > saddle up some.
> >
> > Anyhoo. Our miles may vary.
> >
> > Jeff Hagedorn
> > Los Angeles, CA USA
> >
> > --
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>
> Member, Supreme Council of Cyberspace
>
> "it isn't a contest. Just enjoy the ride." - Seth Vidal
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Your Boulder and Rivendell compare/contrast.

[Joe Broach]

​
On Wed, May 27, 2015 at 2:57 PM, Matthew J  wrote:

> > That is indeed another Mike Kone brand.
>
> Indeed squared!
>

Well, technically Compass's brand now
<https://janheine.wordpress.com/2012/01/25/coming-full-circle-with-rene-herse/>,
which Mike Kone licenses for his bikes. Not that it really matters.

Best,
joe broach
pdx or

​​
On Wed, May 27, 2015 at 2:57 PM, Matthew J  wrote:

> > That is indeed another Mike Kone brand.
>
> Indeed squared!
>
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Re: [RBW] Bent rear derailler?

[Joe Broach]

Erl,

Impossible to tell from that angle. Eyeball/photo from the rear, preferably
with the derailer off. It's pretty easy to get a rough alignment with a
padded crescent wrench as Patrick noted, or a shop can make quick and more
precise work of it with an alignment tool.

Best,
joe broach
pdx or

On Sun, May 24, 2015 at 2:48 PM, WETH  wrote:

> I am in need of a second opinion. Is the rear derailler on my Atlantis
> bent?  It's a Shimano deore from Riv-well used by me.
> Thanks!
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Romulus

[Joe Broach]

​
On Sat, May 23, 2015 at 9:11 AM, David Banzer  wrote:

> ​​
> Michael,
> There were canti-Rom's made, but those are pretty few if I understand
> correctly. The Romulus/Redwood were less fancy versions of the Ram, that
> were pretty much identical designs (though it seems there were tire
> clearance changes at some point).
>

That's the first I've heard of running changes in the Rom/Red line (Aside
from the "surprise" mini-run of canti-Roms, which I think was the result of
a miscommunication with Toyo). I'm pretty sure all Rom/Reds were spec'd to
the same 54mm brake reach, even the canti versions. There might have been
slight production variations, but if so they were small. Toyo doesn't seem
to miss by much. On the sidepull models the brakes used affect tire
clearance somewhat, though.

My canti-Rom's been my primary bike since ought-six
http://cyclofiend.com/cc/2006/cc087-joebroach0306.html and still gets
compliments despite the paint chips.

Best,
joe broach
pdx or



​​
On Sat, May 23, 2015 at 9:11 AM, David Banzer  wrote:

> ​​
> Michael,
> There were canti-Rom's made, but those are pretty few if I understand
> correctly. The Romulus/Redwood were less fancy versions of the Ram, that
> were pretty much identical designs (though it seems there were tire
> clearance changes at some point).
> David
> Chicago
>
>
> On Saturday, May 23, 2015 at 10:55:09 AM UTC-5, Michael Hechmer wrote:
>>
>> Isn't the romulus a ramboulet with cantis?  I have an '84 Trek 620 which
>> has a ride and specs very near to my 62 cm Ram, but with cantis.  I
>> converted mine to 650b and love the ride.  Keep an eye on ebay.  The frames
>> go for a couple of hundred, so you can pay for repaint and whatever braze
>> on changes you want and end up with a great frame at a very reasonable cost.
>>
>> Michael
>>
>> On Friday, May 22, 2015 at 10:32:07 AM UTC-4, Jombini wrote:
>>>
>>> Hoping to replace my 61 cm Romulus with similar frame.
>>> Live in RI.
>>> Thoughts?
>>> John
>>>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Canti-Rom

[Joe Broach]

Luke,

I think the 700x49 fluted were a one time run. They're just about prefect
on the canti-Rom width wise--maybe a touch of a squeeze at the chainstays.

Best,
joe broach
pdx or
On Apr 18, 2015 7:51 AM, "lukeheller"  wrote:

> So I've been limiting my Rom's tire size all these years? Doh. Blast those
> silly VO fenders.
>
> Joe, do you mean 700x50 fenders? Their site indicates they sell 45's and
> 50's, no 49's. I am running the 45's on my Rom and it seems that's all that
> the chainstays will take but maybe I'm wrong.
>
> What are those fenders the OP has on his Rom? They look simply yet good.
> Chromoplastic?
> What's the fender to use to maximize tire clearance?
>
> On Thursday, April 16, 2015 at 6:32:22 PM UTC-4, joe b. wrote:
>>
>> That is weird, Luke. My 63 C-Rom fit Pasela 32s + VO 700x49 fenders
>> nicely. The brake bridge is a little low on these and becomes the tight
>> spot (I wonder if someone forgot to deduct the fender boss thickness), but
>> I've run the slightly bigger GB Cypres 700x32 under the same fenders with
>> no issue. Agree that 35s are a no-go with metal fenders, though, at least
>> in back.
>>
>> Best,
>> joe broach
>> pdx or
>>
>> On Mon, Apr 13, 2015 at 8:50 PM, lukeheller  wrote:
>>
>>> I'm shocked to see you can fender a 35.
>>>
>>> I tried to fender a 32 pasela under my hammered VO fenders on my 63cm
>>> Canti-Rom and it was too tight. Perhaps I need different fenders! I never
>>> liked those hammered fenders anyways besides the looks.
>>>
>>>
>>> On Friday, April 10, 2015 at 4:45:45 PM UTC-4, Dave Johnston wrote:
>>>>
>>>> The Rom's and Rams are awesome they have a nice sport touring geometry
>>>> so they feel like a nice neutral road bike. It's hard to find a canti
>>>> equiped bike that can handle 35mm tires that doesn't feel like a hybrid or
>>>> Touring bike. I wish my Ram had come with canti's, I like the power and
>>>> feel better and there is more clearance for fenders.
>>>>
>>>> Dave J
>>>>
>>>> On Wednesday, April 8, 2015 at 1:43:50 AM UTC-4, exliontamer wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>> This is my first show off a bike post and thought this would be the
>>>>> appropriate place to do it. I acquired a 61cm Cantilever Romulus frame
>>>>> recently and decided to build it into what you see. I managed to squeeze
>>>>> 35mm Marathon Supremes under the fenders. It rides great & it's ready for
>>>>> the rain.
>>>>>
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>>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Canti-Rom

[Joe Broach]

That is weird, Luke. My 63 C-Rom fit Pasela 32s + VO 700x49 fenders nicely.
The brake bridge is a little low on these and becomes the tight spot (I
wonder if someone forgot to deduct the fender boss thickness), but I've run
the slightly bigger GB Cypres 700x32 under the same fenders with no issue.
Agree that 35s are a no-go with metal fenders, though, at least in back.

Best,
joe broach
pdx or

On Mon, Apr 13, 2015 at 8:50 PM, lukeheller  wrote:

> I'm shocked to see you can fender a 35.
>
> I tried to fender a 32 pasela under my hammered VO fenders on my 63cm
> Canti-Rom and it was too tight. Perhaps I need different fenders! I never
> liked those hammered fenders anyways besides the looks.
>
>
> On Friday, April 10, 2015 at 4:45:45 PM UTC-4, Dave Johnston wrote:
>>
>> The Rom's and Rams are awesome they have a nice sport touring geometry so
>> they feel like a nice neutral road bike. It's hard to find a canti equiped
>> bike that can handle 35mm tires that doesn't feel like a hybrid or Touring
>> bike. I wish my Ram had come with canti's, I like the power and feel better
>> and there is more clearance for fenders.
>>
>> Dave J
>>
>> On Wednesday, April 8, 2015 at 1:43:50 AM UTC-4, exliontamer wrote:
>>>
>>> This is my first show off a bike post and thought this would be the
>>> appropriate place to do it. I acquired a 61cm Cantilever Romulus frame
>>> recently and decided to build it into what you see. I managed to squeeze
>>> 35mm Marathon Supremes under the fenders. It rides great & it's ready for
>>> the rain.
>>>
>>  --
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Re: [RBW] Dyna-Sys compatible bar-ends now available - opening up new possibilities

[Joe Broach]

I think these are the same shifters as on the Gevenalle GX brifters. They
got a mixed review from RidingGravel:

http://ridinggravel.com/gravel-news/gevenalle-gx-shifters-checkpoint/

Interesting though.

Best,
joe broach
pdx or

On Thu, Apr 16, 2015 at 10:18 AM, Jim Bronson  wrote:

> In case you wanted to run something like oh a 40T in the back or any
> Shimano 10 speed MTB deralier, or any permutation thereof, Microshift now
> makes a dyna-sys compatible bar end:
>
> http://www.microshift.com.tw/BS-M10_Shifters.html
>
> Microshift also makes a 40T compatible derailer with 47T capacity, which
> is the largest capacity I have seen, granted, it is fugly, but if you value
> functionality over form...
>
> http://www.microshift.com.tw/RD-M78L_rd.html
>
> I had not previously considered going to 10 speed but if I can get a
> cassette that goes to 40 for a reasonable price, that would make it more
> interesting for me because I might be able to get away with a standard 110
> bcd compact double crankset rather than having to go with wide low
> cranksets.  I think the smallest smal ring you can get on a 110 is 33T,
> IIRC.  Currently running 28T on a 74 bcd on my triple converted to wide low
> double, with 34 in the back
>
> With the current config, 44/28 in back and 11-34 9 speed in , I have from
> 104.0 down to 21.4
>
> With a proposed config of 48/33 in front and 11-40 in back I get from
> 113.5 down to 21.5.  So basically the low end stays the same, I don't have
> to use geek doubles anymore, and I get 113.5 on the top end.
>
> The only downside is that the cassette has a 17 to 21 jump on it, which is
> a 23.5% jump, pretty large for a single gear shift.  The current 9 speed
> has a 17 to 20 jump on it which is a more manageable 17.6%.  So maybe I
> should be thinking 11 speed 11-40.  Ha ha.
>
> The reason I want 113.5 on the top end is that in tailwind situations on
> brevet rides I have had problems gearing out at 104 inches.  If I could
> pedal to a little higher speeds in tailwinds especially in rolling terrain
> like we have here in the Texas Hill Country, that would help me keep up
> with my friends a little better.  Grant is probably shaking his head now
> but hey cycling is a big tent.
>
> Of course being able to get the gearing I want on the low end using a
> 110bcd double is reason enough in of itself for me.  I just have to solve
> the problem with the big gap in the cassette.  Hmm.
>
> --
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>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Go fast-ish tires on the Hillborne

[Joe Broach]

Matt,

I think the only way to know for sure is to try. Luckily, supple tires have
great re-sale value on the list. I planned to take off the "fragile" GB
Cypres 700x32s once the rains hit last year...they're still on. I've had
zero punctures (one pothole pinch flat) in 9 months of my 10 miles a day
commute plus a few fun rides.

Best,
joe broach
pdx or

On Tue, Mar 31, 2015 at 7:36 PM, 'hangtownmatt' via RBW Owners Bunch <
rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com> wrote:

> Supple tires make a difference, but I'm primarily a commuter averaging 100
> to 150 miles a week and am skeptical they would be a good choice for my
> application.  I HATE fixing flats on cold dark mornings at 5 AM and really
> appreciated getting just a hair under 10,000 miles out of my Marathon
> Supremes.  However, as I near retirement my tastes could change so please
> keep us updated on the flat stats.
>
> Matt
>
>
> On Tuesday, March 31, 2015 at 6:12:28 PM UTC-7, Surlyprof wrote:
>>
>> After carefully considering everyone's great feedback and rereading Jan
>> Heine's articles on tire size and pressure, I finally got to take my maiden
>> voyage on the Synergy wheels and brand, spankin' new Compass Barlow Pass
>> tires.  Holy cow!  I had no idea what I've been missing!  I now understand
>> the concept of "supple".  It was like riding on a cloud... a very smooth,
>> fast and responsive cloud.  My most sincere thanks to everyone who
>> recommended Compass tires and suggested the Barlow Pass Extralights over
>> the Stampede Pass.  I'm sure I would have been thrilled with the Stampedes
>> as well but the extra size gives me a little more confidence that my riding
>> might be a little more flat-free.  I am amazed at the speed and feel of the
>> bike now.  My hat's off to everyone at Compass.  Sam has been reborn beyond
>> the go-fastish machine I was hoping for from this purchase.  Now onward
>> to an Albastache cockpit.
>>
>> https://www.flickr.com/photos/129545862@N03/16993973501/
>> Thanks everyone!
>>
>> John
>>
>> On Wednesday, March 11, 2015 at 8:28:05 AM UTC-7, Surlyprof wrote:
>>
>>> I can't afford to do too much experimenting when it comes to bikes and
>>> components so I could really use the wisdom and experience of the group on
>>> this one.  I have a 56 Hillborne that came with two sets of wheels.  The
>>> sturdy/heavy, 36h ones have 700x40 Schwalbe Mondials that I use for
>>> commuting, trails and all around town riding.  Now I get to leverage my
>>> birthday to finally get tires for the lighter 32 hole XT/Synergy wheels.  I
>>> wanted to set them up to turn the Sam into my only go-fastish road bike for
>>> summer riding.  I think I have it narrowed down to either 700x35 or 700x32
>>> Marathon Supremes or Compass Stampede Pass (700x32).  I was leaning toward
>>> the Supreme 32's to be a big difference from the beefy Mondials but, after
>>> reading Jan's articles on tire size and pressure I started to think Supreme
>>> 35's might be a better choice.  The reason I lean toward the Schwalbes is
>>> that I've had a long, very positive and almost flatless history with
>>> Schwalbe.  Of course this wouldn't be a dilemma if I could just talk my
>>> wife into buying me the Rodeo in the web specials!
>>>
>>> Since the Rodeo is not to be, I'd appreciate any guidance for a
>>> blissful, light-ish, go fast-ish road riding summer spent on the Hillborne.
>>>
>>> Thanks,
>>> John
>>>
>>>
>>>
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[RBW] All beausage team nomination

[Joe Broach]

Years ago there was a great mini-writeup on a former Riv-employee's
seriously patina-ed Rivendell (custom or Longlow, I think). Actually, I
think Grant mentioned it was straddling the abuse/beausage line. I nominate
this venerable Atlantis for the all beausage team. I've seen it doing
yeoman's work around campus for a while and finally captured it at rest.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/cyclerslife/16723348737/

It might take me another 10 years to get my canti-Rom on the JV squad if
that's the standard.

Best,
joe broach
pdx or

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Re: [RBW] Re: Chains do not like me.

[Joe Broach]

Hi Tim,

Sorry to hear about your shoulder. A good quality cassette should last tens
of thousands of miles if you change your chain before it wears too much.
Consensus on "too much" seems to be when the chain measures about 1% longer
than new--less for 11-speed. A chain checker
<http://www.parktool.com/product/chain-wear-indicator-CC-3-2> has been a
good investment for me, but you can just use a ruler.

Hope you heal up quickly.

Best,
joe broach
pdx or



On Sat, Mar 21, 2015 at 3:52 PM, 'Tim' via RBW Owners Bunch <
rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com> wrote:

> My Hilsen was shifting poorly this week, skipping, etc. While adjusting
> and cleaning it I found a broken link, the first one I've ever had. So I
> replaced it. I headed out for a ride today and the first time I stood on
> the pedals the chain slipped, throwing me forward and when I caught myself
> I'm pretty sure I tore my rotator cuff (I'd fallen on the CT ice 3 or 4
> weeks ago and tweaked it pretty good. The slip today really hurt it.) So
> before heading to the emergency room for an X-ray, I went to get a new
> cassette. I returned from the hospital and put the cassette on and tried
> pedaling under a load and it still throws the chain violently. I put it on
> the stand and the chainrings are shark-toothed too, and need replaced.
> Typically, I have to change the cassette once per season. After today's
> debacle, I will never change the chain without changing the cassette. And
> inspect your chainrings!
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Atlantis or Hunq - what's the real difference?

[Joe Broach]

Regarding butted tubing, here's an interesting old pre-Blug blog post I
saved long ago. Not sure if it exists still (it does
<http://rivbike.tumblr.com/newsarchive>!). Some earlier thoughts from
Riv/Grant on straight gauge tubing.

Best,
joe broach
pdx or

The T:T Faqtor?March 23, 2010

It’s the Tube-to-Tire Ratio Factor.

Friend Ted wrote a couple of days ago and as part of a long email that
included family stuff and a video, he also out of the blue said something
like, “fat tires and skinny frame tubes look way better than skinny tire
and fat frame tubes.”
I’d already been working on that exact topic, and it was reaffirming to
hear Ted say it right there out of the blue. I wonder how many other people
have thought the same thing.

The early mountain bikes were great, widespread examples, but it doesn’t
have to be that extreme to look good. (A current Atlantis-Bomba-Hunqa with
fatties is the same).

There’s no formula, so I’ll make it up on the spot. It’s not a formula to
be taken too seriously, it’s just for fun and to get you to think about it.
And it is truly loads of fun.

The skinniest tire on the bike should be at least 11 percent larger in
diameter than the average diameter of the seat-, top-, and down tubes, and
at least 16 percent larger than the front-to-back dimension of the fork.

You add the diameters of the three tubes. Divide by three. Multiply by
1.11, and that’s your visual minimum.

For the fork, measure front-to back and multiply by 1.16.

Maybe the calculated tire size won’t fit. The formula isn’t designed to
make your frame or fork look bad. It’s designed to make your bike look
good. Whether it still rolls or not is another issue, but fat tires +
skinny frames and forks = hubba hubba.

The seat stays and chain stays are sad to be left out, but there’s a
formula there waiting for somebody else to come up with.

Bicycle looks, or aesthetics, are not the most important topic in the world
of bikes, but they’re always at least in the background, and I don’t think
anybody can deny that they care how their own bike or bikes look.

It doesn’t matter to me what you like, and shouldn’t matter to you what I
like, but Ted and I like the same look, it seems. In bicycle frames, I
guess what we’re talking about is the “lead pipe look” of inch or
inch-and-an-eighth top tubes, inch-and-and-eighth seat tubes, and
inch-and-an-eighth to inch-anda-quarter downtubes … especially when
combined with 32mm or larger tires, which make the tubes look even
skinnier.

We don’t make frames out of lead pipes, or anything close. A thick tube has
a wall thickness, at the end, of just 1.0mm (1/25.4th of an inch). For most
of their length, the tubes in our frames average about 0.7mm (about 1/36th
of an inch).

So no, not lead pipes, but the lead-pipe look. Big diff there. (Not more
tea; more tea flavor. Remember that one? Lipton has what—-just given up?
Commercials now are cars and drugs and sodas, with now and then a
fast-food.)

Maybe you have to be old to like the skinny-tube look. For sure, the bikes
I grew up with had skinnier tubes still. Schwinn Varsities, for instance,
—- I’m sure they had top tubes that were less than an inch in diameter.
(Unrelated but noteworthy, their fork blades still hold the most
aerodynamic of all time record.) Those Varsities had the skinny-fat thing
going on.

Those bikes were nearly indestructable, and maybe living with them, and old
Raleighs, Peugeots, and Motobecanes that basically never died is why I
associate skinny tubes with strength.

I know the physic-al advantages of fatter-thinner tubes. More torsional
rigidity and lateral stiffness per ounce, but that comes at the cost of
dent-resistance  and toughness. Beer cans dent easily, and V-8 cans from
the early ’70s don’t (didn’t). Putting more metal between the air outside
the tube and the air inside it makes a tube harder to crack or buckle.

There’s a balance between weight, strength, efficiency, durability, costs,
and marketability, but there’s not one tiny sweet spot that gives you the
best of everything. It’s always a compromise.

Usually the compromises err on the side of marketability, because sales
drive everything, and there are some smart battles that a manufacturer
could spend a lot of money fighting, with no chance of success.

For  instance, a good case can be made for straight-gauge (not butted) top
tubes and down tubes. A straight-gauge top tube is less likely to dent in a
crash, and weighs only about 2.5 ounces more. That it costs less makes it
seem worse, but I’d say it’s better. We use butted tubes on most of our
bikes, although the Bombadil and the big Homers have straight gauge top
tubes—as they should.

A straight gauge down tube resists twisting more, and down tubes are
supposed to be heavier than the other tubes. Here again, it would weigh
about 2.5 to 3.5 ounces more, and you can lose that much fat in a day
easily (not that you want or need to!).

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Re: [RBW] Re: My Bleriot Looks Like That?

[Joe Broach]

Hi Benz,

I'd love to hear your cleaning process--maybe I could be reformed. I used
to keep my bikes a lot tidier when I lived in a dry place like Sunnyvale.
All it took was a wipe down every couple of weeks. Some of us in rainy
places just give up. There just isn't much point when the next commute
sends gray slurry streaming down tire sidewalls and fork legs, while the
rain washes away any of the "clean" chain lubes available at a ridiculous
rate.

Maybe I've warped in my time here, but a good looking bike still looks good
to me dirty. Even unabashed bike aesthete Jan Heine is on record saying he
doesn't bother to clean his tire sidewalls in Seattle.

Best,
joe broach
pdx or

On Tue, Mar 17, 2015 at 5:35 AM, Benz, Sunnyvale, CA 
wrote:

> At the risk of getting kicked out of this group, I will state that I don't
> know why people don't clean their bikes more often. As the saying goes,
> cleanliness is next to godliness, and in the case of bikes, being clean
> will improve overall operating performance and thus riding satisfaction.
> Frequent cleaning will also increase the service life of parts as they'll
> be well-lubricated and won't be running in crud. Finally, frequent cleaning
> will make each individual cleaning an easier affair because crud won't
> accumulate and become persistent.
>
> I clean my bikes every 4-500 miles or so (I use the "B" mileage counter on
> my cyclocomputers) and with some standard process/setup I learnt years ago
> working at a bike shop, the bikes come out gleaming in less than 30
> minutes. And that's with me dripping a drop of oil on each chain link (no
> OCD jokes please; I know I've got a bad case of it already). If I'm really
> rushing it, I'm sure I can do it in less than 20 minutes. But I don't
> usually rush it as the process is surprisingly therapeutic, so much so that
> friends will often drop off bikes for "detailing" (don't worry, I'm
> compensated via local fresh coffee beans).
>
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Re: [RBW] Portland, OR, Riders ...

[Joe Broach]

Hi Eric,

If you're up for some hills and a few miles of gravel, Otto Miller is a
classic. Just about 50 miles if you're starting and ending in NW.

​
http://www.mapmyride.com/us/milwaukie-or/sellwood-otto-miller-skyline-route-90967617

Best,
joe broach
pdx or

On Sun, Mar 15, 2015 at 7:28 AM, Eric Norris  wrote:

> I'll be in town next Saturday, and I'm looking for a scenic, 40-50 mile
> route starting from NW Portland. Any ideas?
>
> Eric N
> www.CampyOnly.com
> CampyOnlyGuy.blogspot.com
> Twitter: @CampyOnlyGuy
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Atlantis or Hunq - what's the real difference?

[Joe Broach]

On Wed, Mar 11, 2015 at 10:14 AM, 'clayton bailey' via RBW Owners Bunch <
rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com> wrote:

> Straight gauge is usually used in lugged construction, as the lugs provide
> the "butting".
>

​Clayton, that statement seems a bit broad. I'd say the great majority of
mid to high end lugged bikes have used butted tubing since way back, and
Reynolds for one was pushing butted tubing at the turn of last century
(as The Patent Butted Tube Company Limited).

As far as I know, all Rivs used butted tubing until pretty recently. Lugs
don't change the fact that torching the tube ends weakens them. I'll be
curious to hear Riv's thinking on the change; hopefully in a new Reader!
I'm guessing the new super steels make straight 8 more attractive.

Best,
joe broach
pdx or

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Re: [RBW] Need hanging light hanging advice...

[Joe Broach]

​Maybe I'm missing something, but is the Sheldon nut just being used as a
spacer? If so, just get a nylon or aluminum spacer/bushing from the
hardware store to space the light out from the rack. An M5 bolt should be
fine; a washer under the bolt head wouldn't be a bad idea. And, maybe a
nylock nut on the bolt, so you can leave things just loose enough to
​adjust the light on the road.

bolt head > washer > light > spacer > rack > nylock nut

or run the bolt through from the inside

nylock nut < washer < light < spacer < rack < bolt head

Or, did you have other tricks in mind?

Best,
joe broach
pdx or

On Wed, Mar 11, 2015 at 4:17 PM, lungimsam  wrote:

> Checking out my rack eyelet in anticipation of hopefully getting a hanging
> edelux II that is coming out soon.
>
> I was hoping to use a Sheldon fender nut and secure it to the rack eyelet
> on one side, and the light to the M6 hole on the M6 side of the Sheldon
> nut, but apparently both sides of the Sheldon nut are 6M and my rack eyelet
> is 5M.
>
> I am interested in bolting the light directly onto the rack in a similar
> fashion, and *not using any kind of extending mounting arm or hanger*.
>
> I think the edelux light is 6M but my rack eyelet is 5M.
>
> Only thing I can think to do is ream out the eyelet and use a 6M bolt
> through everything. But before I did any drilling I thought I would ask.
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Clem PreSale.

[Joe Broach]

Hi Wayne,

I'd hate to talk you out of a new Riv, but you're selling that Raleigh
short. IIRC, the Gran Sport had nice, butted tubing and a lovely fork, all
Reynolds 531. That's as good or better than anything you'd get in a new
production bike (most similar to something like a Hilsen or Rambouillet or
Roadeo in the Riv line-up, in terms of liveliness). The workmanship and
details like braze-ons will be better on a new Riv-spec'd bike, but the
Raleigh shouldn't be holding you back at this point.

How does your current bike fit? If fit is good (or could be with a bar/stem
change), I'd spring for a 700c wheelset, maybe with a dynamo hub if you
think you might want to try some night riding). Those bikes usually have
centerpull brakes and lots of room for fatter tires (700x35 at least, and
get good tires). Have a blast on it for a year or more, and then decide
what you'd want different in a second bike or replacement.

You say you want something more versatile and new. I say that Gran Sport is
a super-versatile bike and nothing like obsolete.

Best,
joe broach
pdx or

On Mon, Mar 9, 2015 at 2:43 PM, Wayne Naha  wrote:

> Thanks, everyone for all your thoughts.  The reason I was vacillating
> between the Clem and the Sam is primarily economic, being that they are
> Riv's lowest cost models.  I could be very happy on either bicycle.  Right
> now, I am riding a 1976 vintage Raleigh Gran Sport.  Its a fine bike.  It
> is old school lugged steel, but I tend to baby it because of its age, and a
> perceived need to keep it on smooth pavement.  It has 27" wheels, and those
> don't come in a lot of widths anymore.  I am wanting something more
> versatile, and new.  The thought of a discount Atlantis or Hunq sounds
> great.  I love the look of the Appaloosa, with the diagatube, the curvy
> stays, and the long rear triangle.  I would ride it mostly about town,
> doing errands, and the occasional foray into the trails around here.   I
> really don't have any real plans for s24o's, but when the opportunity comes
> up, it will be great to have the bike that will handle it.  I think I've
> talked myself into a Clem, but I'm open to suggestion.  I have been curious
> about the 650B wheel size, just to try it and see.  The medium Clem (my
> size) has those, a bonus.  But what about that 29.8 mm seatpost?  Who makes
> that size?
>
>
> On Monday, March 9, 2015 at 4:14:01 PM UTC-4, Surlyprof wrote:
>>
>>
>> I bought my Hillborne after seeing the first Clems but I did so because
>> it was the right compliment to an MTB I already had.  It was a replacement
>> for a Bianchi that maxed out at 25c tires.  The Hillborne is a pretty
>> different bike than the Clem.  From initial reports, it sounds like the
>> Clem is closer to a discount Atlantis or Hunq based on stoutness and a
>> discount Appaloosa based on stability from longer stays.  The Hillborne is
>> a bit tighter and less stout.  Closer to a Hilson than the Atlantis or
>> Hunq.  That said, I just carried 4 bottles of wine in the front basket and
>> two bottles in the saddlebag yesterday and, aside from a little shimmy, it
>> was definitely up for the task.  I'd feel comfortable camping or touring
>> with it (seems like many people do).  I've also found that everything I
>> ride now that is not my Hillborne feels twitchy and overly aggressive.  The
>> Sam H is incredibly smooth and handles beautifully but I've come to expect
>> that from every Rivendell I ride.  If you want to ride fatter tires than a
>> 45 (40 with fenders), get the Clem... and enjoy whatever level of
>> components you want to put on it.  Take a look at the Clem Drew Beckmeyer
>> gave to his girlfriend in the other post.  He described it as stout like a
>> Hunq and it looks fantastic with the Brooks b67 and the Schwalbe Big Ben
>> 50's (50+?) he has on it.  A machine to be proud of for sure (as is the
>> Hillborne if you decide to go that way).
>>
>> If you are close enough to Riv to try both, that would be the thing to
>> do.  If not, buy the one that supports what you want to do with a bike.
>> They said the Clem rides like a Riv on the Blug and I believe them.  As for
>> pedals, I love both my thin gripsters and my grip kings.  If I had a Clem,
>> it would have one of those pedals on it (maybe even one of each!... That
>> sounds very "Clem")
>>
>> John
>>
>> On Monday, March 9, 2015 at 10:30:22 AM UTC-7, Wayne Naha wrote:
>>
>>> The Clem sounds like a great bike for me, just the right level of
>>> stoutness to the frame and those nice longer chainstays.  I had been
>>> considering a Sam, but Clem has turned my he

Re: [RBW] Re: mafac raid brake

[Joe Broach]

At risk of veering off topic, I wish some clever producer would figure out
a Speedial variable leverage setup for road levers. There's so much
variation in brake MA, hand strength, and just personal preference, I think
it'd be a killer product. Even moreso now with road discs that could
generally use more lever pull. I've ridden all sorts of road setups, and
almost all of them had too much MA for my liking.

Best,
joe broach
portland, or

On Sat, Mar 7, 2015 at 7:53 AM, Aaron Young <1ce...@gmail.com> wrote:

>
> On Fri, Mar 6, 2015 at 6:19 PM, ted  wrote:
>
>> It's a bit lost in the mists of time, but I think I bought the aero
>> levers to replace older non aero levers, and that they seemed the same
>> (except for being "aero"). Do you know when levers started having more
>> mechanical advantage? Was that a Mafac versus others differentiator?
>
>
> My understanding is that the more modern aero levers have more mechanical
> advantage than the older non-aero style due to the position of the pivot in
> the handle and direction of cable pull.  I've used both types and when set
> up correctly had no complaints about braking, so maybe the
> mechanical-advantage advantage isn't the biggest issue.
>
> Aaron Young
> The Dalles, OR
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Clem Questions

[Joe Broach]

​
On Wed, Mar 4, 2015 at 11:18 AM, Joe Bernard  wrote:

> I like it, I may put down a deposit, but I'm still a little mystified
> about the seat lug which necessitates the bendy seatstays. Is it cheaper to
> make the bike this way, or does Grant just like that lug and there ya go?


The seat lug sockets won't accommodate the angle needed to get a straight
pair of stays back to the way-back-there dropouts. It must cost something
to bend all those stays, so I'd say there's nothing cheap about it. Maybe
the lug was designed with shorter chainstays in mind. In that case, well,
cheaper to bend the stays than re-cast the lugs!

I like the swoop; these bikes are mutts in the best way. Can't wait to see
what people make of them out in the wild. When I have the cash, I plan to
order two to build up for my folks. RIv nailed the problem of the useful
old bike supply dwindling.

Best,
joe broach
pdx or

​​
On Wed, Mar 4, 2015 at 11:18 AM, Joe Bernard  wrote:

> I like it, I may put down a deposit, but I'm still a little mystified
> about the seat lug which necessitates the bendy seatstays. Is it cheaper to
> make the bike this way, or does Grant just like that lug and there ya go?
>
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Re: [RBW] Atlantis or Hunq - what's the real difference?

[Joe Broach]

On Thu, Feb 12, 2015 at 4:07 PM, Aaron Young <1ce...@gmail.com> wrote:

> I recently had a discussion with an experienced frame builder and it came
> up that tubing diameter has a bigger effect than the thickness or thinness
> of the tubes; at least with common wall thicknesses.  Apparently there are
> online calculators that show flex characteristics of a tube and this is
> where that idea can be verified.
>
> I'm certain the outside diameter of the Atlantis tubes are the same
> as always.  So wether its tubes are a bit thinner/thicker is probably not
> that important.
>
> We didn't discuss the effect of butted vs straight gauge so I can't
> comment on that.  Based on how folks seem to love even the straight gauge
> Rivs, my guess is it doesn't have a very strong impact on the overall
> experience.
>
> Aaron Young
>

​In the range of common bicycle tubing, the rule of thumb is one step in
diameter changes deflection about the same as two steps in thickness. So, a
25.4 (non-OS) top tube in 9-6-9 will flex about the same as a 28.6 (OS) top
tube in 7-4-7. The OS tube will be a little lighter, but the non-OS tube
will be tougher (if the steels are similar). Of course, then there's number
of top tubes to consider!

Best,
joe broach
portland, or



> On Thursday, February 12, 2015, 'Chris Lampe 2' via RBW Owners Bunch <
> rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com> wrote:
>
>> I have a memory of reading some specs on the AHH and at most, it was
>> 8/5/8.  It was something like Roadeo = 7/4/7, AHH = 8/5/8, Atlantis =
>> 9/6/9.  I don't remember a mention of butted tubes but I suspect the Roadeo
>> and AHH have them and maybe the Atlantis.
>>
>>
>>
>> On Thursday, February 12, 2015 at 12:15:09 PM UTC-6, Christopher Chen
>> wrote:
>>>
>>> When he was repairing my 57 AHH, my friend remarked that the tubing was
>>> surprisingly light, maybe 8 5 8 or something like that. So yeah, there be
>>> differences!
>>>
>>> On Thu, Feb 12, 2015 at 10:02 AM, Surlyprof  wrote:
>>>
>>>> This from the Hillborne catalog:
>>>>
>>>> "*Silver Tubes. They look normal from the outside, but*
>>>>
>>>> *Silver tubes are our own design and are better for it.*
>>>>
>>>> *Rather than using industry-standard double-butted tubing*
>>>>
>>>> *picked stock from a catalogue, we shifted the wall*
>>>>
>>>> *thickness around to better address the stresses. long*
>>>>
>>>> *story short, we have more metal where it matters and*
>>>>
>>>> *less where it doesn’t. There is not a better-designed*
>>>>
>>>> *tubeset available, and it’s ours (and yours) alone."*
>>>>
>>>> Sounds similar to the way Thomson seatposts have a round outer cross
>>>> section and an elliptical interior section leaving metal where strength is
>>>> needed and less where it is not.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> John
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> On Thursday, February 12, 2015 at 4:46:19 AM UTC-8, Chris Lampe 2 wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> I think that may be one of the misconceptions about Rivendells and
>>>>> Grant has even made comments that support this.  Rivendell's use expensive
>>>>> tube sets because who would buy a $2000 frame knowing it had plain ole'
>>>>> 4130 cro-mo?  People expect fancy steel in a frame that expensive.
>>>>> However, since bikes like the Bombadil and Hunaqapillar may have 1+mm
>>>>> tubing (straight or butted...who knows?) and the Atlantis has 9/6/9 tubes,
>>>>> there may not be that much benefit to the expensive tubes.  My
>>>>> understanding is that the benefit of expensive tubes is high quality steel
>>>>> that allows the builder to use less of it and produce a higher performance
>>>>> bike.  The heavier Riv's don't seem to be designed to take advantage of
>>>>> this.  The Roadeo and maybe the AHH may be a different story and they may
>>>>> benefit tremendously from better tubing.
>>>>>
>>>>> There's probably more to the story when you get into the fine details
>>>>> of all parts of the frame but overall, I think the above is accurate.
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> On Thursday, February 12, 2015 at 12:24:50 AM UTC-6, drew beckmeyer
>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>>
>>>>>> really? straight gauge?

Re: [RBW] Re: Tall/big boys wool jersey sale of this and any other century.

[Joe Broach]

On Tue, Feb 10, 2015 at 2:39 AM, Peter Adler  wrote:

> Two editorial quibbles:
>
> 1) eBay changed their search function a month or so back. There's no
> longer a search page that allows you to search for seller IDs and close
> matches. More than ever, you have to use *exactly* the right seller ID or
> your search comes up empty. Now more than ever, Capitalization Counts. So
> if you're going to post a seller's ID, it will be much easier on your
> readers if you copy and paste the seller's ID exactly:
>

​Advanced Search -> By seller -> ​RGZ4AMS

Pulls up robert's listings for me, no problem. There's also an option to
show close matches. I agree that links are nice, though.

​Best,
joe broach
pdx or​



>
> rgz4ams <http://myworld.ebay.com/rgz4ams/>
>
> 2) Or you could make it easier altogether, and just post the address of
> the seller's listing page, which the Google Groups interface (and most
> email applications) will turn into a clickable link:
>
>
> http://www.ebay.com/sch/rgz4ams/m.html?item=291378019737&hash=item43d77bbd99&pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2562
>
> Let's make the Internet work for us, instead of the other way around...
>
> Peter Adler
> nerdier than is really healthy in
> Berkeley, CA/USA
>
>
> On Monday, February 9, 2015 at 1:28:39 PM UTC-8, robert zeidler wrote:
>>
>> Check on ebay under cycling>wool jerseys or seller RGZ4AMS
>>
>> Thanks!!
>>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Drilling head tube lug for internal wiring?

[Joe Broach]

See Jan Heine's posts in the pre-Google archives for instructions on
drilling the frame:

http://search.bikelist.org/getmsg.asp?Filename=internet-bob.10712.0128.eml
http://search.bikelist.org/getmsg.asp?Filename=internet-bob.11002.0674.eml

I'd gotten up the nerve to do this, but local builder Tony Pereira talked
me out of it. Now, it's possible that was because of the person asking the
question...

If you drill it, report back!

Best,
joe broach
pdx or



On Sun, Feb 8, 2015 at 2:40 PM, Will  wrote:

> You might want to go here:
>
>
> https://groups.google.com/forum/#!searchin/rbw-owners-bunch/wiring|sort:date/rbw-owners-bunch/5SHrMMET5_M/nYrL5VYSK38J
>
> And read Anton's posts, look at his pictures. He's got this knocked.
>
> Will
>
>
> On Sunday, February 8, 2015 at 10:58:58 AM UTC-6, William! wrote:
>>
>> I'm interested in running internal dynamo wiring, front to back, on my
>> Atlantis. There's already a good size hole in the BB shell, so I'm thinking
>> all I need to do is drill a hole in the downtube in the head tube lug.
>> Wiring would go up fork (the outside, held with twine or something), into
>> the new hole, down the downtube, out the BB shell and through a hole in the
>> rear fender, all the way around the fender inside it to a fender-mounted
>> light at the rear of the bike. That's the thinking, anyway.
>>
>> Yes, I'm really thinking bout putting a hole in my beloved Atlantis.
>> Anyone done this and care to advise? Or perhaps you have a better idea?
>>
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Re: [RBW] My QR Fender QR'd

[Joe Broach]

I bet Steve can figure it out from your description and existing Google
images like this one:

http://brimages.bikeboardmedia.netdna-cdn.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/PDW-Wide-Full-Metal-Fenders-Stay-Mounts1.jpg

I was excited about these little dudes when I first saw them. But, then I
started wondering if that 2mm grub screw would actually stay put. Then, I
started wondering if the design even made any sense. The SKS version will
release when the stays are pulled upwards. On this design, I'm not
convinced the stays won't just bend instead of pulling out when the stay
gets pulled toward the crown.

I'll look forward to Bill's field testing!

Best,
joe broach
pdx or

On Mon, Jan 26, 2015 at 3:16 PM, Bill Lindsay  wrote:

> Steve-buddy
>
> It doesn't look like I do have any photos, but that's easily corrected.
>
> In the meantime, let me describe how it works with Honjos, or any similar
> aluminum stayed fender, held with R-clips to your fork tip:
>
> Step 1.  remove the R-clips entirely.  Put them in your parts drawer
> Step 2.  Bolt the PDW kit piece into the fork tip eyelet where the R-clip
> had been
> Step 3.  line up your aluminum stay next to the PDW kit and mark where you
> need to cut it off
> Step 4.  Remove the stay entirely
> Step 5.  Cut the stay at your mark
> Step 6.  Re-install the stay, sliding the 5mm Aluminum stay into the PDW
> kit, kind of trombone-style
> Step 7.  tighten everything up, including the tiny setscrews on the metal
> part of the PDW kit
>
> I'll post flickr pictures late tonight (unless I forget)
>
> Bill Lindsay
> El Cerrito CA
>
>
> On Monday, January 26, 2015 at 3:03:26 PM UTC-8, Steve Palincsar wrote:
>>
>>  On 01/26/2015 05:59 PM, Bill Lindsay wrote:
>>
>> I run SKS plastics on my Atlantis.  There's a shortcut in my neighborhood
>> that I frequently take.  It's a path that is thickly "paved" with big
>> woodchips.  Like when they cut down a tree, it ends up on this path.  Some
>> of the chunks are prettyumchunky.  Anyway, I was cutting across the
>> path, and there was a loud "whack!" sound and then a rubbing sound.  Sure
>> enough it looks like a woodchip got in my spokes, whacked the SKS stay and
>> the front fender QR'd itself and the woodchip dislodged.  I just popped the
>> fender back in and straightened the slightly bent stay and moved on.
>>
>>  It's nice that the QR feature works when a mean chunk of wood
>> diabolically leaps into your spokes.
>>
>>  Yes, I did upgrade the Honjos on another bike with the Portland Design
>> Works QR kit.
>>
>>  QR kit <https://www.ridepdw.com/goods/spare-parts/fmf-safety-tabs>
>>
>>
>>
>> Do you have any photos of the bike with that kit installed?  I'm having
>> trouble imagining how it's to be used.
>>
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Re: [RBW] If you want to monitor progress on my DIY springless rear derailer project, a flickr album

[Joe Broach]

>From what Jan's written, I'd go with Eric N. that "high enough to avoid
chain slap" is the sweet spot for a constant tension setup. Wasn't a major
trade-off with the Nivex setup the forward placement blocking the rear
wheel from dropping out easily? Maybe that's not inherent to the design,
though. Modern derailers are solving chain slap with clutches in rear
derailers, some with special "I"m removing the rear whee nowl" modes. I'd
like to try one, but I think they're all 10-speed and up, and I'm not quite
there yet.

Best,
joe broach
pdx or

On Mon, Jan 12, 2015 at 1:20 PM, Eric Norris  wrote:

> Jan mentioned chain slap in the small/small combos (when chain tension
> would be lowest) as a major problem solved by constant tension. That
> suggests that normal “low” tension is “too low,” so perhaps somewhere
> between that and normal “high” tension?
>
> —Eric N
> campyonly...@me.com
> www.campyonly.com
> www.wheelsnorth.org
> Blog: http://campyonlyguy.blogspot.com
> Twitter: @campyonlyguy
>
> On Jan 12, 2015, at 12:46 PM, Bill Lindsay  wrote:
>
> I'm not doing anything in this project to attempt to achieve constant
> chain tension.  Jan has mentioned multiple times that constant chain
> tension is much better, but he has left out a LOT of details to that
> theory, I think.  Constant tension is better, but what value of tension?
> What procedure did he go through to optimize his chain tension?  A "normal"
> derailer presumably has looser tension when you are in small-small and
> higher tension when you are in large-large.  What tension range does a
> normal derailer have?  Is it always too tight?  Always too loose?  Does it
> transition from too loose to too tight?  What gear has the optimum
> tension.  When it is too-loose, what performance are you losing?  When
> chain tension is too tight, what performance are you losing?  He hasn't
> developed that theory in any cohesive way, yet, that I've seen.
>
> Positron did not have dual cables.  Positron had a monowire cable that
> would PULL and PUSH.  There were special housing clips at either end and
> continuous housing all the way from the shifter to the derailer.  You would
> pull the shifter to pull that wire, moving the derailer to a bigger
> sprocket.  Then you'd push the derailer to push that same wire, which would
> push the derailer to a smaller sprocket.  Shimano learned a TON about SIS
> housing from Postitron cable housing.
>
>
>
>
>
> On Monday, January 12, 2015 at 12:03:33 PM UTC-8, Eric Norris wrote:
>>
>> Jan Heine talks about making a similar custom derailleur for his Rene
>> Herse in the latest issue of Bicycle Quarterly. He says that having a
>> constant tension on the chain provides huge benefits in shifting and
>> overall performance.
>>
>> —Eric N
>> campyo...@me.com
>> www.campyonly.com
>> www.wheelsnorth.org
>> Blog: http://campyonlyguy.blogspot.com
>> Twitter: @campyonlyguy
>>
>> On Jan 12, 2015, at 12:01 PM, Anton Tutter  wrote:
>>
>> Fair enough. And you KNOW I would never ask about #5, as I embrace DIY
>> and a hack culture in general.
>>
>> I was just curious why you would do this unless there was something
>> particularly nagging about your current derailleur setup. To do so out of
>> historical curiosity alone earns bonus points.
>>
>> Carry on. Interested to see the outcome.
>>
>> Anton
>>
>>
>>
>> On Monday, January 12, 2015 at 1:10:40 PM UTC-5, Bill Lindsay wrote:
>>>
>>> Anton,
>>>
>>> Can you be more specific?  Why what?  I'll take a guess at five possible
>>> things:
>>>
>>> 1.  Why would you want to try using a springless rear derailer?  Because
>>> they were popular during a very interesting period of cycling history, and
>>> disappeared basically by historical accident, and are now essentially
>>> forgotten.  I'm curious at what was lost.
>>> 2.  Why would you bother destroying a perfectly good derailer?  Just a
>>> creative outlet.  I think about bikes a lot.  It's meditative and at the
>>> same time it is mental exercise.
>>> 3.  Why don't you just ride instead of over-thinking things that are
>>> perfectly fine as they are?  If I had more free time in the daylight I
>>> probably would.  If I had less mentally idle time, commuting to and from
>>> work, maybe I'd come up with fewer ideas
>>> 4.  Why make a non-linear shifter to complement your non-linear
>>> derailer, making the pair linear?  Because in the lower end of my 9 speed
>>> cass

Re: [RBW] stripped braze-on

[Joe Broach]

Geoff,

The bolt (might need a button head for clearance if drive side) and nut
properly tightened will hold rack to braze-on with clamping force. It won't
budge over bumps or cause any problems. Lots of older bikes have unthreaded
braze-ons meant to be used exactly like this.

I'd go this route in the OP's place. I do this on perfectly fine rack
mounts anyway. Belt and suspenders approach.

Best,
joe broach
portland, or
On Dec 24, 2014 7:01 AM, "Geoffrey"  wrote:

> I think using a nylock, putting a screw all the way through and using that
> as a "sleeve" to contain the screw will lead to problems down the road.  If
> that screw is in there, slamming around and you bounce down the road, it's
> a shock on each bump.  The cheapest fix IMO that would be really secure
> would be to find a 6mm tap and just go oversized on those and call it a
> day.  My two cents.
>
> On Wednesday, December 24, 2014 12:27:07 AM UTC-6, cyclot...@gmail.com
> wrote:
>>
>> Both answers are good ones. In fact, chase the threads, and then use a
>> longer bolt w/ a nylock!
>>
>> On Tue, Dec 23, 2014 at 9:58 PM, lungimsam  wrote:
>> > Without a pic I am guessing you mean the threaded cylinder brazed to
>> the seat stay?
>> > Maybe just use a nylock nut with a new bolt? Is that ok to use for a
>> cylinder like that?
>> >
>> > --
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>>
>>
>> --
>> Cheers,
>> David
>>
>> Member, Supreme Council of Cyberspace
>>
>> "it isn't a contest. Just enjoy the ride." - Seth Vidal
>>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Help Choosing Tires - Jack Brown vs. Compass Stampede Pass

[Joe Broach]

Hi Sean,

I've been pleasantly surprised by the flat resistance of my GB Cypres
700x32s. My understanding is that these are practically identical to the
Stampede Pass tires. The first 1200 miles have been puncture free. I
expected to take them off for the rainy season, but so far so good there,
too. I've averaged around a flat per 1000 miles using either plain or TG
Paselas over the years, so I'm due, but to say these are flat prone isn't
supported by my data (n=1). I'm pretty light and run them between 50-60psi.

Best,
joe broach
portland, or

On Mon, Dec 1, 2014 at 8:13 PM, SeanMac  wrote:

> Thanks for all of your responses.  Based on what I have read, I am leaning
> toward giving the Stampede Pass tires a shot.
>
> Neil - you addressed the one concern that I still have - that the Stampede
> Pass will be more flat-prone than other tires.  I'm sorry that the Stampede
> Pass have been so flat-prone for you.  My reading online has not really
> found this to be a problem that many people mention with this tire.  Anyone
> else have flatting issues with Jan's new tires - specifically the Stampede
> Pass model?
>
> A number of years ago I purchased a pair of Grand Bois tires (don't
> remember the specific model) for an old Trek 520 touring bike that I
> owned.  I liked the way those tires made my bike feel when I rode it, but I
> do recall that the tires seemed to flat a lot more than other tires that I
> had used for similar riding.  Who knows, perhaps I just had some bad luck.
> Anyway, I certainly do not mind fixing a flat tires.  However, its not
> something that I would choose to do during a ride.
>
> I'd love to hear a few more data points on these tires.
>
> Sean
>
>
> On Monday, December 1, 2014 4:14:52 PM UTC-5, Neil wrote:
>>
>> Lots of folks here on Compass tires! I had a set of Compass 26 x 1.75s on
>> my LHT, liked 'em, and shod the Sam in Barlow Pass tires.
>>
>> Love love love the feel of these tire...nice and cushy, acceptable
>> traction in the dirt, all around very nice...but not happy with puncture
>> flats at a rate of one every 40 miles, and what I consider excessively
>> quick wear on the rear tire. Jan talks up low pressure as the method for
>> minimizing flats, and I know that environmental factors for punctures are
>> very local in nature, but I ride in the Sierra foothills and Bay Area, run
>> low pressures (around 50 psi), and get lots o' flats.
>>
>> I don't track mileage closely, but I added the tires in May 2014, and the
>> rear tire was reading as 'halfway worn' as of September 2014 (Jan
>> stipulates that when the longitudinal grooves disappear, the tire is
>> halfway worn). Again, not sure of my mileage, but will certainly be less
>> than 3,000 miles on the rear tire. I've toured very lightly with them
>> (maybe 8 days all told), maybe that was a factor.
>>
>> Verdict is that I'll be going back to Panaracer Pasela Tourgards, or
>> Marathon Supremes. I really liked Paselas for the price, and had very few
>> flats on the Marathons.
>>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Disturbing Trend?

[Joe Broach]

George,

A happy coincidence that might benefit you, too, is that the ERD of the A23
is close enough to the Aerohead to re-use spokes in some cases. I just
re-laced a front with no problem and plan to try with the O/C rear when
that aerohead wears out.

Best,
joe broach
portland, or
On Nov 24, 2014 8:30 AM, "George Schick"  wrote:

> Well, one thing I found out after doing some more in depth searching is
> that the particular model rim I have now is being discontinued by the
> manufacturer.  This explains why when I found it anyplace at all it was
> available in only in some unique drilling like 24 holes and in limited
> quantities, at that.  In this case it's the Velocity Aerohead OC, which is
> being replaced by their newer A23 OC.  Looks like a good thing, too,
> because the width of the Aerohead was only about 20mm and the A23 is
> advertised at 23mm.  That would be a beneficial increase as long as the new
> one doesn't suffer from the same cracking problems as their Synergy.
>
> But I think you're right, the rest of the shortages are probably due to
> the inventory/manf. cycle.  Never thought about that.
>
>
> On Monday, November 24, 2014 7:00:49 AM UTC-6, Ron Mc wrote:
>>
>> I think part of what you're seeing is inventory catching up with batch
>> manufacturing.  You can follow inventories of any brand/model of tire and
>> see the same thing.  One season no one has any in inventory, the next
>> season there is a glut.
>>
>> On Saturday, November 22, 2014 8:25:56 PM UTC-6, George Schick wrote:
>>>
>>> Having begun Winter off-time maintenance on my bikes I noticed enough
>>> rim wear on the road bike to encourage me to snoop around on the Web to see
>>> what's available nowadays.  One online retailer that used to carry several
>>> dozen brands/models of road rims is now listing only four.  Another has far
>>> more limited offerings than it used to.  And a well-known national
>>> chain/online retailer lists NO rims at all, just a pre-build wheel, and
>>> only one selection of those.  I'm not sure if this has any significance or
>>> not, but it sure looks like something is causing some belt tightening in
>>> the retail industry.  Any thoughts?
>>>
>>>  --
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Re: [RBW] coffeeneuring

[Joe Broach]

Eunice,

Thanks for sharing. Looks like you have a great coffee scene there. The
photos are stunning!

Best,
joe broach
portland, or

On Sun, Nov 23, 2014 at 12:01 PM, Eunice Chang  wrote:

> For those of you who like coffee and bikes, here's my write up for this
> year's coffeeneuring challenge:
>
> https://sleepyneko.exposure.co/2014-coffeeneuring-challenge
>
> (Related Riv content: It features Thumper the AHH)
>
> Enjoy,
> -E.
>
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Re: [RBW] Disturbing Trend?

[Joe Broach]

Nah, you must be looking in weird places. The road rim market is booming,
and even better the wide rim revolution is taking over! Depending on who
you ask, these new fangled v-shaped profiles may even be an improvement,
too (stronger for less weight). Here are over 80 at a shop local to me,
though granted a handful may be 29er or disc- specific:
http://www.universalcycles.com/shopping/index.php?category=856

Best,
joe broach
portland, or

On Sat, Nov 22, 2014 at 6:25 PM, George Schick  wrote:

> Having begun Winter off-time maintenance on my bikes I noticed enough rim
> wear on the road bike to encourage me to snoop around on the Web to see
> what's available nowadays.  One online retailer that used to carry several
> dozen brands/models of road rims is now listing only four.  Another has far
> more limited offerings than it used to.  And a well-known national
> chain/online retailer lists NO rims at all, just a pre-build wheel, and
> only one selection of those.  I'm not sure if this has any significance or
> not, but it sure looks like something is causing some belt tightening in
> the retail industry.  Any thoughts?
>
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Re: [RBW] PSA: Gorgeous Custom on the 'Bay

[Joe Broach]

​Gorgeous bike. What a great color. The recessed crown and brake bridge
seem odd for a custom with cantis. But maybe that was just the way of the
world back when. No real harm, I guess.

best,
joe broach
portland, or​

On Wed, Oct 29, 2014 at 6:52 AM, cyclotourist 
wrote:

> http://www.ebay.com/itm/201205334712
>
> Stunning, absolutely stunning.
>
> --
> Cheers,
> David
>
> Member, Supreme Council of Cyberspace
>
> "it isn't a contest. Just enjoy the ride." - Seth Vidal
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Winter Riding Pants

[Joe Broach]

​
On Tue, Oct 21, 2014 at 9:14 AM, 'Mojo' via RBW Owners Bunch <
rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com> wrote:

> [...]
> MUSA pants don't even cut autumn temperatures. Thin, slick nylon doesn't
> trap warmth and feels unpleasant against the skin. And my hairy legs build
> up static in them; yuck.
>

​Good tips Mojo. Sporthill has a nice size range, too. Rachel wore a tiny
pair all winter commuting back in Montana. Your MUSA description sounds
like the original pants. They were/are amazing hot weather "sun pants" for
me. Also some of the best wet wading fishing pants I've used as long as the
brush isn't too prickly. I'm still nursing along my old pair years later.
The newer MUSAs I've tried were lots thicker, stiffer, and warmer.

best,
joe broach
portland, or​


​​
On Tue, Oct 21, 2014 at 9:14 AM, 'Mojo' via RBW Owners Bunch <
rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com> wrote:

> I give this answer to this question every year.
>  The best winter active pant is from XC Sporthill, their cross country ski
> pant. Period, no debate. :-)
> http://www.sporthill.com/products2011.php?ProductGroup=2100
> I use these for riding, xc-skiing, and hiking into the 20s. They last for
> many years (decades? I'm on my second pair since 1996), stand up to saddle
> wear well. Wash easy and dry quick.
>
> They have a new (to me) pant with 'wind panels' in the front
> http://www.sporthill.com/products2011.php?ProductGroup=2850
>
> For temperatures ~5-20F I add some synthetic fishnet knickers underneath
> by Brynje of Norway.
>
> http://www.nordiclifeuk.co.uk/index.php/brynje-home?gclid=CLKrpo6OvsECFcKHaQodO18A-Q
>
> For temperatures at or below zeroF, I add a nylon shall pant that has
> zippers up the side of the legs.
>
> On top I use a similar system (Brynje fishnet under Sporthill 3SP under a
> nylon zip shell for the coldest skis/rides).
> Or I use a Sporthill 3 SP top under a Ibex Breakaway jacket for windy cold.
>  http://shop.ibex.com/Wool-Clothing/Mens-Vests-Jackets/Breakaway-II-Jacket
>
> I use wool socks, hats and balaclava.
> Gloves go from thin to thick to mittens. I have a pair of ski over-mitts
> that fit nicely over my gloves and ski pole straps.
> Boots get over-boots around 10F. Thicker socks are counter-productive and
> colder.
>
> MUSA pants don't even cut autumn temperatures. Thin, slick nylon doesn't
> trap warmth and feels unpleasant against the skin. And my hairy legs build
> up static in them; yuck.
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: OK to mix and match front racks/decalers/bags?

[Joe Broach]

​
On Sun, Oct 19, 2014 at 10:12 AM, Steve Palincsar  wrote:

> On 10/19/2014 08:53 AM, Andrew Marchant-Shapiro wrote:
>
>> Not entirely true.  VO makes a fitting for threaded setups as well:
>>
>> http://store.velo-orange.com/index.php/vo-decaleur-kits.html
>>
>>
> They certainly used to have one for threaded, but that was discontinued
> some time ago.  On the page you cite I see only the spacer mounts for
> threadless, in both 1" and 1 1/8".


​Steve, you must be thinking of the old decaleu
<https://c2.staticflickr.com/8/7158/6785541485_b5d478558b_z.jpg>r they made
that hung from the nut on the back of the stem camp. The 1" spacer mount
will work on threadless or threaded, as long as there's a spacer to
replace.​ How well it works, I'm not sure. In a threadless stack they can
rotate if the bag isn't pretty firmly attached to the rack already. There's
a lot more compression under a threaded locknut.

Best,
joe broach
portland, or


​​
On Sun, Oct 19, 2014 at 10:12 AM, Steve Palincsar  wrote:

> On 10/19/2014 08:53 AM, Andrew Marchant-Shapiro wrote:
>
>> Not entirely true.  VO makes a fitting for threaded setups as well:
>>
>> http://store.velo-orange.com/index.php/vo-decaleur-kits.html
>>
>>
> They certainly used to have one for threaded, but that was discontinued
> some time ago.  On the page you cite I see only the spacer mounts for
> threadless, in both 1" and 1 1/8".
>
>
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Re: [RBW] Surly after Riv

[Joe Broach]

​
On Fri, Oct 17, 2014 at 11:31 AM, Steve Palincsar  wrote:
>
>
> Who else (i.e., large manufacturers with a presence in local bike shops)
> is even making touring bikes -- not cyclocross bikes -- these days?  Used
> to be, the big names were Cannondale Trek but Cannondale left the touring
> bike market years ago, and Trek downgraded their touring bike and pushed it
> off into the commuter catalog.  Surly's the only major presence in local
> bike shops.  What are the rest, REI Novarras?


​Steve, there were dark days for sure, but touring bikes are back. All the
majors (except C-dale--dropped theirs this year) have dedicated tourers
again now. Some of them are moving away from the bikecentennial mold and
edging toward mixed terrain/adventure biking with discs and bigger
clearance. Not necessarily bad things in my book, and I guess it makes
sense that a bike generation raised in the MTB and suburban sprawl era
would gravitate toward off road touring. Or, at least the idea of it. Here
are a few more or less traditional tourers:

http://www.trekbikes.com/us/en/bikes/road/touring/520/
http://www.specialized.com/us/en/bikes/road/awol/awol#geometry
http://www.konaworld.com/sutra.cfm
http://www.raleighusa.com/bikes-urban-all-road-sojourn
http://khsbicycles.com/bikes/2013-khs-models/tr-101/
​http://www.fujibikes.com/bike/details/touring#bk_desc_tab

I'd guess any of these would be great for true fully loaded touring.
Probably better than the skinny tubed bikes from the good old days. Then
there are the Somas (Saga), Salsas (Vaya), and Surlys that independent
shops can get. They're the ones (along with Riv and custom builders) that
are really pushing the touring envelope I'd say.

Good times!
joe broach
portland, or


​​
On Fri, Oct 17, 2014 at 11:31 AM, Steve Palincsar  wrote:

> On 10/17/2014 12:10 PM, Anne Paulson wrote:
>
>> It's funny about Surly's image, though. Surly has an enormous presence
>> in the long distance bike touring community. If you ride one of the
>> big Adventure Cycling routes, maybe one in four or one in five bikes
>> is a Surly LHT: you find them at every campsite. And most of these
>> riders do not seem interested in drinking beer under bridges.  It's
>> just word of mouth, I think, that a Surly LHT is a great touring bike,
>> and so are the Trolls and Ogres. People don't buy into the image--
>> they just like the bikes.
>>
>
> Who else (i.e., large manufacturers with a presence in local bike shops)
> is even making touring bikes -- not cyclocross bikes -- these days?  Used
> to be, the big names were Cannondale Trek but Cannondale left the touring
> bike market years ago, and Trek downgraded their touring bike and pushed it
> off into the commuter catalog.  Surly's the only major presence in local
> bike shops.  What are the rest, REI Novarras?
>
>
>
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Re: [RBW] Your Bleriot with front rack and P-clamps works good?

[Joe Broach]

On Thu, Oct 9, 2014 at 10:20 AM, lungimsam  wrote:

> 1. What's your experience?
>

​Nitto mini on a canti-Rom for about a year.​



> 2. Do P-clamps slide down over time?
>

​No sliding. I clamped directly to the fork, and the rubber pads did
discolor the paint slightly.​ If I did it again, I'd use tape under the
clamps (bar tape or electrical or maybe fancy "helicopter" tape).

3. Where's the best place on the fork for clamping, or does it matter? I
> guess I could measure my Sam fork braze-ons and model it from there.
>

​If you're using a fixed leg rack like the mini, then the rack will
determine that. Otherwise, you want to avoid getting down to the
quick-tapering part (since the clamps might theoretically be more likely to
slip).​

I would probably have loads of 4 to 8 lbs. maximum.
> I am probably over-thinking this?
>

​I carried up to 25lb in a basket zip tied to my mini with no problem.

​Best,
joe broach
portland, or​

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Re: [RBW] Re: DIY Saddlebag Quick-Release

[Joe Broach]

Thanks for the extra info, jar351. Very slick indeed. Get back to us about
whether the tapped holes hold up/stay tight over time. As you say, nylock
nuts would be an easy upgrade if they don't.

Best,
joe broach
portland, or


On Wed, Oct 1, 2014 at 11:16 AM, jar351  wrote:

> For those who asked, here's what the attachment part looks like:
>
>
> <https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-_LfrF0BfykU/VCxC4ADtbOI/B5k/A0T7a8HZv34/s1600/IMG_5466.jpg>
> <https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-LP-fQ_BcmQg/VCxDCIu9QjI/B5s/-1YKfAU3Igc/s1600/IMG_5468.jpg>
>
> It's really straightforward, just a metal sandwich. I tapped the back
> plate for the 5mm screws, but I could just as well have used nuts. I really
> just wanted an excuse to buy the tap, but of course it also makes
> installation a bit easier. As you can see from the first shot, there's a
> bit of bowing going on in the plates because I probably tightened the
> screws down a bit more than I had too. I expect that in time the plates may
> bend a bit more and thus loosen but I'll cross that bridge when I come to
> it. In truth, I'm looking forward to working out the kinks and improving
> the design.
>
> Thanks to all who gave a thumbs up :)
>
> On Saturday, September 27, 2014 4:12:41 PM UTC-7, jar351 wrote:
>
>> I was pretty psyched when I bought a used Saddlesack bag from a fellow
>> poster here last weekend. My partner was not. She thinks I spend too much
>> of my very little money on bike stuff--for the record, she's right--and
>> besides that, we live in Oakland. So perhaps understandably she responded
>> to my boyish excitement with a look that said, "you *know* that's way
>> too f-ing fancy and it's *going* to get stolen." I retorted that I
>> planned to attach it to my bike with a piece of bike chain and a crap load
>> of zip ties, but still she was unfazed. Those things would not stop a
>> thief. As much as I hated to admit it she was right. That's when I decided
>> to the opposite tack: make the bag super *easy* to detach and carry. I
>> know that Riv sells a Nitto-made doohickey for just such a purpose, but
>> come on, $100? That's almost as much as I paid for the friggin bag.
>>
>> Anyhow, that's how I ended up making this thing:
>>
>>
>> <https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-pz2jSRSID5M/VCdBEfiAUWI/B5E/Sch1951fkR4/s1600/IMG_5445.jpg>
>> For the record, yes, I blatantly copied the Nitto design as much as
>> possible, and took some cues from another DIYer who had made the same kind
>> of thing and posted it on Flickr. I couldn't figure out the attachment
>> mechanism of the Nitto mount from the photos on the Riv site, so I just
>> made a back plate and sandwiched the saddle rails between it and the main
>> plate that you see in the photo. Seems to work well enough so far.
>>
>> The body of the mount I made from aluminum flat bar, so I'm sure it's not
>> as durable as the Nitto one, which I assume is steel, but how strong does
>> this thing need to be? The tube that the QR skewer goes through is just
>> 1/2-inch PVC but I decided to wrap it in bar tape to avoid the toilet paper
>> dispenser look.
>>
>> I made this in a few hours with no power tools except an ancient
>> Black&Decker drill and if you don't count the cost of the drill bits and
>> tap (which I wanted to have anyway), the whole mount cost me about $15 to
>> make. Most of that was the cost of the aluminum flat bar, of which I have
>> plenty leftover for other projects. (I already had the QR skewer from I
>> don't know where.) Anyway, it was a fun project, not just about saving a
>> little dough.
>>
>> More photos on Flickr: https://www.flickr.com/photos/37784914@N02/sets/
>> 72157647694465480/
>>
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Re: [RBW] DIY Saddlebag Quick-Release

[Joe Broach]

Nice work! How did you attach the bracket to the saddle rails? I'm having
trouble imagining just "two 5mm allen screws w/ lock washers
​"​ doing the trick.

Best,
joe broach
portland, or

On Mon, Sep 29, 2014 at 11:32 AM, jar351  wrote:

> (Hmm... I tried posting this a couple of days ago but it didn't go through
> for some reason. Let's try it one more time.)
>
> The weekend before last I picked up a used medium saddlesack from another
> poster on this list (thanks again, Dave, for a very pleasant transaction).
> As an Oakland resident who often often locks his bike on the street for
> short periods of time, though, I became concerned that someone would steal
> my oh-so-fancy-looking bag, even if it were chained and ziptied to my bike.
> After some consideration and some helpful criticism from my partner, I
> decided on the quick-release approach. However, at $96 + tax, the Nitto
> Grip <http://www.rivbike.com/product-p/r13.htm> that Rivendell sells is
> just too much an extravagance for me. After all, that's almost as much as I
> paid for the bag!
>
> So, off to the hardware store I went, and two happy afternoons later,
> here's what I came up with:
>
>
> <https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-aeGKazwuqLY/VCmidHiXJuI/B5U/2Isd4vR1dMU/s1600/IMG_5445.jpg>
>
> For the record, yes, I basically copied the Nitto design as best I could
> and also took some cues from someone who had made the same sort of thing
> and posted it on Flickr. So I can't take any credit for the design, except
> perhaps for the idea to bar-wrap the PVC tube that the QR skewer skewers.
> Anyhow, if you don't count the cost of the drill bits and tap (which I
> wanted to have anyway) nor of the QR skewer (which I had already), the
> total cost of the mount was about $15. I'm sure it's not quite as sturdy as
> the Nitto mount, but so far it's proved capable as well as convenient.
>
> All of this to say that it can be easily and cheaply done, and it makes a
> fun Sunday afternoon project.
>
> More pics here:
>  https://www.flickr.com/photos/37784914@N02/sets/72157647694465480/
> <https://www.flickr.com/photos/37784914@N02/sets/72157647694465480/>
>
> Parts list:
>
>
>- about 18 inches of aluminum flat bar
>- two 5mm allen screws w/ lock washers
>- one 5-inch length of 1/2" PVC
>- a long QR skewer
>- some cotton bar tape and twine
>
>
> Tools I used:
>
>- hacksaw
>- ancient B&D drill w/ new 5mm and 4.2mm bits
>- 5mm tap
>- various metal files
>- ruler
>
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Re: [RBW] Favorite new rumors from the industry, Interbike-ish stuff

[Joe Broach]

​
​
On Mon, Sep 22, 2014 at 3:14 PM, Bill Lindsay  wrote:

> You heard it here, folks.  Joe Broach is holding out for a 14-speed
> cassetteFACT!
>

​You know, with a triple that could just be the answer to life, the
universe, and everything. Probably only if friction shifted, though.

Best,
joe broach
portland, or ​


​

​​
On Mon, Sep 22, 2014 at 3:14 PM, Bill Lindsay  wrote:

> You heard it here, folks.  Joe Broach is holding out for a 14-speed
> cassetteFACT!
>
> :-)
>
> On Monday, September 22, 2014 3:08:30 PM UTC-7, joe b. wrote:
>>
>> Yeah, the Paul calipers caught my eye, too. There's some useful
>> discussion
>> <http://www.velocipedesalon.com/forum/f2/new-mechanical-disc-caliper-pauls-38199.html>
>> on vsalon. I've been trying to get up to speed on discs in case the XL
>> Elephant stock run actually happens for me this winter. Don't think I'll go
>> 13-speed, though--ha!
>>
>> Best,
>> joe broach
>> portland, or
>>
>> On Mon, Sep 22, 2014 at 12:37 PM, Bill Lindsay  wrote:
>>
>>> My cousin manages a largish shop in Southern California.  My brother in
>>> law is close friends with the owner of Jenson USA.  I saw my cousin and my
>>> brother in law this weekend, and got two juicy rumors from Interbike.
>>>
>>> 1.  Paul is making Disc brake calipers, called the Klamper.
>>> 2.  Phil Wood showed a 13 speed cassette hub.
>>>
>>> I don't know if the hub thing is a joke, like Sheldons ultra microdrive
>>> thing.  I'm curious about disc brakes, but have never felt the need to have
>>> them.  Paul getting in the game is interesting.
>>>
>>> --
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>>
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Re: [RBW] Favorite new rumors from the industry, Interbike-ish stuff

[Joe Broach]

Yeah, the Paul calipers caught my eye, too. There's some useful discussion
<http://www.velocipedesalon.com/forum/f2/new-mechanical-disc-caliper-pauls-38199.html>
on vsalon. I've been trying to get up to speed on discs in case the XL
Elephant stock run actually happens for me this winter. Don't think I'll go
13-speed, though--ha!

Best,
joe broach
portland, or

On Mon, Sep 22, 2014 at 12:37 PM, Bill Lindsay  wrote:

> My cousin manages a largish shop in Southern California.  My brother in
> law is close friends with the owner of Jenson USA.  I saw my cousin and my
> brother in law this weekend, and got two juicy rumors from Interbike.
>
> 1.  Paul is making Disc brake calipers, called the Klamper.
> 2.  Phil Wood showed a 13 speed cassette hub.
>
> I don't know if the hub thing is a joke, like Sheldons ultra microdrive
> thing.  I'm curious about disc brakes, but have never felt the need to have
> them.  Paul getting in the game is interesting.
>
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Re: [RBW] Two for the big boys

[Joe Broach]

Oops, James and Jim are right. Rom/Redwood came in odd sizes through 65,
but the tall Redwood was a 68. Sorry for the bad info!

Best,
joe broach
portland, or

On Sun, Sep 21, 2014 at 10:37 PM, James Warren 
wrote:

>
> Redwoods came in 65 and 68. That one was probably estimated from a
> center-to-center measurement. It looks like a 68.
>
>
> On Sep 21, 2014, at 10:23 PM, Joe Broach wrote:
>
> Jim,
>
> The Rom/Red were on the odd numbers, Ram was on the even. Roms up to 63cm
> then Redwoods in 65 & 67.
>
> Best,
> joe broach
> portland, or
>
> On Sun, Sep 21, 2014 at 9:53 PM, Jim Bronson 
> wrote:
>
>> The Redwood didn't come in 67, it came in 68, IIRC.  Not sure what the
>> next smaller size would have been.
>>
>> On Sun, Sep 21, 2014 at 10:08 PM, Goshen Peter 
>> wrote:
>> > Great prices too, IMO
>> >
>> >
>> http://www.ebay.com/itm/67cm-Rivendell-Redwood-/291247953084?pt=US_Bicycles_Frames&hash=item43cfbb14bc
>> >
>> >
>> http://www.ebay.com/itm/68cm-Rivendell-Ramboulliet-/291248387059?pt=US_Bicycles_Frames&hash=item43cfc1b3f3
>> >
>> > --
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>> --
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>>
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> James Warren
> jimcwar...@earthlink.net
>
> - 700x55
>
>
>
>
>
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Re: [RBW] Two for the big boys

[Joe Broach]

Jim,

The Rom/Red were on the odd numbers, Ram was on the even. Roms up to 63cm
then Redwoods in 65 & 67.

Best,
joe broach
portland, or

On Sun, Sep 21, 2014 at 9:53 PM, Jim Bronson  wrote:

> The Redwood didn't come in 67, it came in 68, IIRC.  Not sure what the
> next smaller size would have been.
>
> On Sun, Sep 21, 2014 at 10:08 PM, Goshen Peter 
> wrote:
> > Great prices too, IMO
> >
> >
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/67cm-Rivendell-Redwood-/291247953084?pt=US_Bicycles_Frames&hash=item43cfbb14bc
> >
> >
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/68cm-Rivendell-Ramboulliet-/291248387059?pt=US_Bicycles_Frames&hash=item43cfc1b3f3
> >
> > --
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>
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Re: [RBW] Well, Damn

[Joe Broach]

Dang, Chris, I've had dreams where I bounce off cars and land on my
feet--nice work! Sorry about the Homer, but glad you're OK. Broadway in
general is such mess. Don't have to ride it that often, but every time I do
it puts me on edge.

Best,
joe broach
portland, or

On Sat, Sep 6, 2014 at 8:01 PM, Chris Chen  wrote:

> My Hilsen is out of commission for a little while.
>
> Heading on NW Broadway towards the bridge, at Flanders, when a silver VW
> Golf making a left turn hits me. I go up and over and make a nice dent on
> the windshield. Roll back down when the car stops and land on my feet (like
> a cat!) and walk away, a bit dazed.
>
> Cops show up, we have a party with the firefighters, ambulance comes and
> leaves. Witness gives his story, all the data gets swapped.
>
> Front rack is bent, front fork is askew, wheel is tacoed, but everything
> is fixable.
>
> Police officer gives me a ride back to my apartment (hey it turns out cops
> carry bikes on their cars all the time, by fitting the wheels between the
> grill and the big external bumper on the front).
>
> X-rays turn out okay, no fractures. Everyone at the hospital was great. It
> was about 8 hours ago and I'm just coming down from the endorphins. I got a
> malt milkshake (horchata cookie!) to celebrate.
>
> Oh yeah, and my helmet is all cracked up. I'll be fine though.
>
> Anyway, keep an eye out there...
>
> Cheers
>
> cc
>
> still picking pieces of windshield glass out of his hair
>
> --
> "I want the kind of six pack you can't drink." -- Micah
>
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Re: [RBW] Swappin' wheelsets question...

[Joe Broach]

​Potential gotchas...

1) might have to adjust brake cable tension if widths very different
2) brake pads may not hit the brake track right on rim #2
3) cassettes may be slightly shifted left/right enough to throw off your
derailer limit adjustment
4) if cassette #2 has a larger big cog, you may run out of chain in the
big/big or need to adjust the "B" tension screw on your derailer

Give it a whirl and eyeball 1-4, and you should be good to go. Or, did I
miss something?

Best,
joe broach
portland, or


On Thu, Aug 21, 2014 at 6:42 PM, lungimsam  wrote:

> My two Rivs have GB and Velocity sets.
> Both bikes are 8-speed with the same chains on 'em.
> Is there anything wrong with swappin' wheelsets between the bikes just for
> fun. I guess not. But as an un-mechanic am not sure if there is some hidden
> thing I am not aware of.
> Thanks!
>
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Re: [RBW] Hello

[Joe Broach]

Hey Kevin,

What tires are on the Roadeo? They look plump!

Best,
joe broach
portland, or


On Mon, Aug 18, 2014 at 8:05 PM, 'Kevin C' via RBW Owners Bunch <
rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com> wrote:

> Hello - I have been a long time reader of the RBW Owners Bunch group and
> finally decided to participate.  Thought I would start with a couple
> pictures of my Rivendells; my Roadeo riding in western MA and my Atlantis
> on a recent overnight.  I live in eastern MA, and one of my main interests
> in joining the group is potentially connecting up with other Rivendell
> owners in the New England area.
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: The Rivendell Bike Weight Thread

[Joe Broach]

63 Riv Canti-Rom
28.5 pounds with pump and lights but without toolkit and usual around town
load
more or less stock build except
nitto m12 front rack
aerohead wheelset with SON front hub and Phil freewheel rear
B17

Following Grant's rule for stating bike weights, rider weighs about 5x the
bike. I also have a Rawland Nordavinden built up about 4 pounds lighter. I
can't tell the weight difference between them, so I guess my tolerance is
at least +/- 4 pounds.

Best,
joe broach
portland, or


On Tue, Aug 5, 2014 at 12:04 PM, Bill Lindsay  wrote:

> Clayton, that is EPIC.  Those fierce pannier flair bits are particularly
> cool.  Tell us about your frame decals?
>
>
> On Tuesday, August 5, 2014 11:59:37 AM UTC-7, Clayton wrote:
>>
>>
>> <https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-8hHXOS8apfs/U-EpEAW5TbI/ADA/67rjfKUlDpA/s1600/IMG_1930.JPG>
>>
>> 36.6 Lbs for my Atlantis with fenders, Nitto mini front rack, Tubus front
>> and rear racks, Brooks special, USE suspension seatpost, rear mount
>> kickstand and two (one medium and one small) home made frame bags, and
>> Profile aero bars without the extensions. As shown? Grocery store trip (IT
>> is my car)...probably 85-90 lbs. Thankfully no hills.
>>
>> Clayton
>>
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Re: [RBW] Canti-rom max tire

[Joe Broach]

You should be fine. I used grub screws in the fender mounts to keep the
gunk out without cutting into my clearance.

How do like the MSOs? They've been on my radar for when my stash of Mythos
slicks runs dry. Having lived in Missoula, I'm partial to the name, too!

Best,
joe broach
portland, or
On Jul 14, 2014 8:13 PM, "Leslie"  wrote:

> Interesting!
>
> I've been running a Clement X'Plor MSO 700x40 on the front of my
> canti-Rom;  thus far I've been running a 700x35 Ritchey Speedmax on the
> rear, to ensure clearance, but have been wanting to see if the MSO would
> fit back there, too
>
> H
>
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[RBW] Canti-rom max tire

[Joe Broach]

I happened to have the fenders off and played around with a few tires. I've
always wondered what I could fit in back (front clearance is greater). I
think I found the limit with a 700x40 (38mm casing, 41.5mm knobs):

https://www.flickr.com/photos/cyclerslife/14651847681/in/photostream/
https://www.flickr.com/photos/cyclerslife/14632119366/in/photostream/

I wish the bridges were a skosh higher so I could run fenders with big
tires, but given these bikes were a small run deal, I'd say Riv did pretty
well.

Best,
joe broach
portland, or

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Re: [BOB] Re: [RBW] Re: FYI - V-Brake Arm Lengths

[Joe Broach]

Useful, Mark! Didn't know there was so much variation in arm length. I
haven't found a v-brake setup I like so far. Most experience has been with
Avid SD-7s on our tandem where the mech advantage seems too high. Too much
power and little modulation. When things get bouncy, I've been known to use
the drag brake instead because there's so little room for error between
light braking and full power at the levers.

Maybe I should try swapping in some shorter arms or lower advantage
controls. I'd been mulling a canti swap, but the v-brakes are handier for
cable routing on the tandem frame.

Best,
joe broach
portland, or


On Sat, Jun 21, 2014 at 5:12 PM, Mark Chandler 
wrote:

> I've used them, and like them quite a bit. My only complaint is that the
> cable is secured via a grub/set-screw (rather than a conventional
> bolt/washer).
>
>
> On Sat, Jun 21, 2014 at 5:16 PM, Zack B  wrote:
>
>> Anyone using the box eclipse v-brakes want to comment on them?
>>
>>
>> On Sat, Jun 21, 2014 at 1:15 PM, Mark Chandler 
>> wrote:
>>
>>> That would be indeed be useful info, but many manu's don't list that
>>> measurement. I do know that the Paul MotoLite has an extended range of
>>> adjustment, as do BOX/Promax.
>>>
>>>
>>> On Sat, Jun 21, 2014 at 11:09 AM, Justin August 
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>>> I think a good addition would be distance of bottom of brake slot from
>>>> pivot point and top of slot from pivot point. Could be helpful to some
>>>> folks trying conversion things.
>>>>
>>>> -J
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> On Saturday, June 21, 2014 11:16:23 AM UTC-4, John Boland wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>> Well, Riv sells v-brakes, so that seems as good a litmus test for
>>>>> BOBishness as any.  I am convinced that v-brakes are the most underrated 
>>>>> of
>>>>> braking systems.  Not as pretty as cantilevers (IMHO) and not as purely
>>>>> efficient in all conditions as discs (debatable), but they are light
>>>>> weight, inexpensive, and just *work* with minimal fuss.  I think
>>>>> entry-level mountain bikes would be better off with a quality set of V's
>>>>> than the no-name, low budget cable discs that are endemic to the species.
>>>>> And entry-level CXers would certainly be better off with V's than the 
>>>>> cheap
>>>>> and maladjusted canti's that are endemic* that* species.  Anyway,
>>>>> thanks for the chart.  I think it will be very useful to the v-brake
>>>>> cognoscenti.
>>>>>
>>>>> On Friday, June 20, 2014 12:12:47 PM UTC-4, Mark Chandler /
>>>>> GRAVELBIKE.com wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>> If you want to know if a particular v-brake will clear your bike's
>>>>>> tire or fender, I've compiled a list of arm lengths for popular v-brakes.
>>>>>> This is a living document, and I'll update it as more info becomes
>>>>>> available (not all manu's list their brakes' lengths).
>>>>>>
>>>>>> The list is available here:
>>>>>> http://www.gravelbike.com/?p=3298
>>>>>>
>>>>>  --
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Re: [RBW] Re: Grand Bois tires, size discrepancy

[Joe Broach]

Hi Anne,

Also keep in mind that tires (it SEEMS like especially light, supple ones)
grow in width over the first couple hundred miles. Don't be surprised if
the GBs relax out to 32 or close after some riding.

Best,
joe broach
portland, or


On Tue, Jun 10, 2014 at 5:31 PM, Anne Paulson 
wrote:

> It's 6% in diameter, but that makes 12% difference in volume, which is
> what we care about.
>
>
> On Tue, Jun 10, 2014 at 4:56 PM, Deacon Patrick 
> wrote:
>
>> That's about a 6% discrepancy, which certainly seems reasonable given
>> different rim widths and tire stretch.
>>
>> With abandon,
>> Patrick
>>
>>
>> On Tuesday, June 10, 2014 4:52:31 PM UTC-6, Anne Paulson wrote:
>>>
>>> If you order some of Jan Heine's tires, be aware of a size discrepancy.
>>>
>>> I just got a couple of his Grand Bois tires, which are sold as 700 x
>>> 32mm. I knew they were made by Panaracer, and I have used the Panaracer
>>> Pasela 32mm and the Jack Brown 33mm tires, so I figured I knew what to
>>> expect. When the tires arrived, they looked narrower than I expected. Then,
>>> when I opened them up, they were labelled 700 x 30. Then, when I mounted
>>> them on my Mavic Open Pro rims, they measured 30mm wide.
>>>
>>> When I asked Jan, he explained that he has a different system of
>>> measurement, and according to his measurement system (mounting them on some
>>> rim or other) they measure 32mm.
>>>
>>> So, expect the Grand Bois tires to be narrower than other tires sold
>>> with the same width.
>>>
>>> --
>>> -- Anne "Standards are good, everyone should have one" Paulson
>>>
>>> It isn't a contest. Enjoy the ride.
>>>
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>
>
>
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>
>
> It isn't a contest. Enjoy the ride.
>
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Re: [RBW] Quickbeam's Pedigree...

[Joe Broach]

Patrick,

I wouldn't worry. I've never heard of another broken QB. Probably just bad
luck on that one (broke at base of seat tube, I'm 90% sure I remember right
on location) after years of hard use. Friend was light (< 150).

I broke a Fuji Finest at the seat tube, and I'm 145. Sometimes it's just
dumb luck.

Best,
joe broach
portland, or


On Sun, Jun 1, 2014 at 10:51 AM, Patrick Moore  wrote:

> Roadeo .65-.45, right?
>
> Also, if your friend had load problems with 9-6-9, how much did *he*
> weigh? I carry largish loads on the Ram and God forbid ....
>
> On Sun, Jun 1, 2014 at 11:38 AM, Joe Broach  wrote:
>
>> Maybe Riv will chime in, but it's fun to just make stuff up in the
>> meantime! My memory says the 'beam was slotted more between Atlantis &
>> Ram/Rom with 9-6-9 main tubes (vs 8-5-8 on Ram/Rom) but lighter stays and
>> fork. Clearances were also in between. The 'beam was also unique in being
>> built by Panasonic instead of Toyo.
>>
>> A friend carried some impressive loads on his 'beam, though the frame
>> eventually protested (Riv took care of him). It's just a strangely
>> versatile frame.
>>
>> --
> Resumes, LinkedIn profiles, and letters that get interviews.
> By-the-hour resume and LinkedIn coaching.
> Other professional writing services.
> http://www.resumespecialties.com/
> Patrick Moore
> Albuquerque, Nouvelle Mexique, Etats Unis
>
> *
>   * "Where you come from is gone, where you thought you were going to
> never was there, and where you are is no good unless you can get away from
> it. Where is there a place for you to be? No place.*
> * "Nothing outside you can give you any place," he said. "You needn't to
> look at the sky because it's not going to open up and show no place behind
> it. You needn't to search for any hole in the ground to look through into
> somewhere else. You can't go neither forwards nor backwards into your
> daddy's time nor your children's if you have them. In yourself right now is
> all the place you've got. If there was any Fall, look there, if there was
> any Redemption, look there, and if you expect any Judgment, look there,
> because they all three will have to be in your time and your body and where
> in your time and your body can they be?*
> *  "Where in your time and your body has Jesus redeemed you?" he cried.
> "Show me where because I don't see the place. If there was a place where
> Jesus had redeemed you that would be the place for you to be, but which of
> you can find it?” -- Flannery O'Connor, Wise Blood  *
>
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Re: [RBW] Quickbeam's Pedigree...

[Joe Broach]

> lighter stays and fork

than the 'lantis, I meant, not lighter than RamRom.  -joe in pdx


On Sun, Jun 1, 2014 at 10:38 AM, Joe Broach  wrote:

> Maybe Riv will chime in, but it's fun to just make stuff up in the
> meantime! My memory says the 'beam was slotted more between Atlantis &
> Ram/Rom with 9-6-9 main tubes (vs 8-5-8 on Ram/Rom) but lighter stays and
> fork. Clearances were also in between. The 'beam was also unique in being
> built by Panasonic instead of Toyo.
>
> A friend carried some impressive loads on his 'beam, though the frame
> eventually protested (Riv took care of him). It's just a strangely
> versatile frame.
>
> Best,
> joe broach
> portland, or
>
>
> On Sun, Jun 1, 2014 at 10:31 AM, Larry Powers 
> wrote:
>
>> Owning one I don't believe it is the second lightest tube set.  It is
>> pretty heavy for what it is (still its my most ridden bike).  Maybe it is
>> the set up I have on it that makes me believe that, 32 mm tires, generator
>> hub, fenders and a rack. Still, I think my Rambouillet is lighter and for
>> sure the Roddeo is lighter and probably the Legolas as well.
>>
>> Larry Powers
>>
>> Get a bicycle.  You will not regret it if you live. - Mark Twain
>>
>>
>> > Date: Sat, 31 May 2014 13:07:41 -0700
>> > From: philip.william...@gmail.com
>> > To: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
>> > Subject: [RBW] Quickbeam's Pedigree...
>>
>> >
>> > I'd say Sheldon Brown was the godfather of the Quickbeam, and all the
>> Country Bikes were its descendants.
>> >
>> > I think it has the second lightest tubeset of any Rivendell frame?
>> >
>> > Philip
>> > www.biketinker.com
>> >
>> > --
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>
>

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Re: [RBW] Quickbeam's Pedigree...

[Joe Broach]

Maybe Riv will chime in, but it's fun to just make stuff up in the
meantime! My memory says the 'beam was slotted more between Atlantis &
Ram/Rom with 9-6-9 main tubes (vs 8-5-8 on Ram/Rom) but lighter stays and
fork. Clearances were also in between. The 'beam was also unique in being
built by Panasonic instead of Toyo.

A friend carried some impressive loads on his 'beam, though the frame
eventually protested (Riv took care of him). It's just a strangely
versatile frame.

Best,
joe broach
portland, or


On Sun, Jun 1, 2014 at 10:31 AM, Larry Powers 
wrote:

> Owning one I don't believe it is the second lightest tube set.  It is
> pretty heavy for what it is (still its my most ridden bike).  Maybe it is
> the set up I have on it that makes me believe that, 32 mm tires, generator
> hub, fenders and a rack. Still, I think my Rambouillet is lighter and for
> sure the Roddeo is lighter and probably the Legolas as well.
>
> Larry Powers
>
> Get a bicycle.  You will not regret it if you live. - Mark Twain
>
>
> > Date: Sat, 31 May 2014 13:07:41 -0700
> > From: philip.william...@gmail.com
> > To: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
> > Subject: [RBW] Quickbeam's Pedigree...
>
> >
> > I'd say Sheldon Brown was the godfather of the Quickbeam, and all the
> Country Bikes were its descendants.
> >
> > I think it has the second lightest tubeset of any Rivendell frame?
> >
> > Philip
> > www.biketinker.com
> >
> > --
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> Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
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Re: [RBW] fs: NITTO ~ Mark's Rack

[Joe Broach]

Hi Eric,

I'll take it if still available!

Thanks,
joe broach
portland, or


On Sat, May 31, 2014 at 4:14 PM, Eric Wolforth 
wrote:

> fs: Nitto - Mark's Rack.
>
> 4 struts included plus two large P-clamp to be used on the fork, if needed.
>
> $95 shipped (PayPal okay as long as fees are covered)
>
> http://s30.postimg.org/vl5oikkv5/image.jpg
> http://s30.postimg.org/40curb3c1/image.jpg
> http://s30.postimg.org/yta5vm74x/image.jpg
> http://s30.postimg.org/aa84eb2qp/image.jpg
> http://s30.postimg.org/tdwugwq75/image.jpg
>
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Re: [RBW] Carradice Duxback Poncho - Opinions?

[Joe Broach]

BB,

Welcome to the poncho club! Can't speak to the duxback specifically, but in
general...

I haven't found the hood on my Log House/Campmor cape very useful on the
bike. I find a wool cycling cap more effective. I overheat quickly with the
hood up. That said, I haven't cut the hood off because it's occasionally
handy standing around off the bike, and it makes a nice neck baffle in
back. If it's just totally pouring or sub-40 and raining, I'll pull the
hood on; otherwise, I just overheat.

Anything beyond a light rain you'll need either shoe covers or waterproof
shoes (or a change of shoes at the other end). I get away with jeans except
in torrential downpours. In those I get soggy, but only below the knees.

The duxback seems great if a bit less packable than the nylon capes. I
carry my nylon cape from Sep-Jun.

It definitely makes rainy rides more fun!

Best,
joe broach
portland, or




On Wed, May 28, 2014 at 7:58 PM, Montclair BobbyB  wrote:

> I just received mine in the mail, so I realize it's kinda late for
> opinions... but wanted to hear from others who own one of these ponchos.
> I tested it on a short ride *(a very short ride, since it wasn't actually
> raining, and the neighbors were giving me horrified looks...)* It's very
> nice quality and it feels like riding a well-ventilated tent on wheels.
>
> One thing I definitely noticed; either my head is too big, or the hood is
> rather short, barely covering my ears, but offering good peripheral vision
> (unlike most hoods). I was able to get my helmet to fit over the hood, so I
> think that works for me.   Question:  Do you find this hood effective, or
> do you just abandon it altogether? Does your face still get soaked using
> the hood?  Do you wear your helmet over the hood???
>
> Also, with fenders and poncho do you find you still need additional rain
> protection (like shoes, spats, legs, etc.?)
>
> I've been really disappointed with my GoreTex jacket and pants (hot and
> sticky), and I never really considered a poncho until I saw the
> Carradice.  I have to say I'm really impressed with the quality and feel.
> Can't wait to really test it out (and turn the neighbors faces
> from horrified to envious).
>
> Peace,
>
> BB
> *"Rain just makes a good ride better"*
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Least quill stem extension possible? Nitto Dirt Drop?

[Joe Broach]

http://yojimg.net/bike/web_tools/stem.php

is great for comparing reach and height of different stems. Made by
one-time BoB listers, too!

Best,
joe broach
portland, or


On Tue, May 27, 2014 at 3:00 PM, Liesl  wrote:

> Also the higher the bar, the lower the effective reach is...
>
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Re: [RBW] One last time: 559X 32 mm Kojaks versus 559X 32 mm Primo Racers versus others?

[Joe Broach]

My mistake, Patrick. The PT (seems to stand for "protex") is in the T-Serv
line, not the Pasela, but the tread looks identical. I had the 26x1.25
slotted in as a replacement for the XO-1 in the family, once the current
set of Avocets finally wear out. I don't have any experience with them yet,
but 240g sounds promising.

http://www.panaracer.com/urban.php

The Kojak sounds like a winner, though, and Schwalbes seem to be worth the
price.

Best,
joe broach
portland, or


On Sun, May 18, 2014 at 3:18 PM, Patrick Moore  wrote:

> Joe: I can't find anything online about the "PT" model; the only
> information that I am confident is up to date is about the TG version. Can
> you point me to a site?
>
> I put several thousand miles on the non TG 559X 32 Paselas and they were
> fine for the price, but I don't recall finding them as nice as the similar
> Kojak:
>
> 1. They seemed much more sensitive to pressure: a much finer line between
> harsh and saggy.
>
> 2. They were indeed flat prone, but that can be cured by Stan's. OTOH, the
> Kojak is quite flat resistant while rolling at least as nicely as the
> Pasela.
>
> 3. The sidewalls were fragile; so was the tread, come to think of it: I
> put 1,200 miles on a rear once in 30 feet when my Bagman QR suddenly
> quick-released at speed, flipping the Nelson back onto the rear tire and
> locking it. The skid took off all of the tread in a 1.5" long section.
>
> OTOH again, they rolled well when inflated right and the price is
> certainly good (though I just saw them online at $36 and change).
>
>
> On Sun, May 18, 2014 at 3:16 PM, Joe Broach  wrote:
>
>> Patrick,
>>
>> Have you had a local shop confirm they're discontinued? I just googled
>> "pasela 26x1.25 wire" and saw lots of stock of the non-TGs, but maybe
>> that's the end of them. If so, the new "PT" models look promising.
>>
>> Best,
>> joe broach
>> portland, or
>>
>>
>> On Sun, May 18, 2014 at 1:37 PM, Patrick Moore wrote:
>>
>>> From what I can google, Pasela no longer makes the 559X1.25 except in a
>>> Tourguard model.
>>>
>>>
>>> On Sat, May 17, 2014 at 11:17 AM, Joe Broach wrote:
>>>
>>>> Patrick,
>>>>
>>>> Have plain Paselas proven too flat prone for you? Based on BQ's
>>>> testing, I think you'd be hard pressed to beat the humble Pasela in
>>>> performance even at 2-3x the price. They haven't tested the Kojak, but the
>>>> very similar Marathon Racer was slightly slower.
>>>>
>>>> Where I ride (no goatheads!), the plain Pasela's been just as flat
>>>> resistant as the Tourguard. I've gotten 1 flat about every 600 miles with
>>>> 700x32s. There's also the new T-serv PT from Panaracer that saves some
>>>> weight (kevlar bead) and has a new flat protection layer.
>>>>
>>>> Best,
>>>> joe broach
>>>> portland, or
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> On Fri, May 16, 2014 at 8:29 PM, Patrick Moore wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> If you wanted a fattish but also fastish tire, and you couldn't go
>>>>> wider than 32 mm (if you want to use fenders), which would you choose?
>>>>>
>>>>> There isn't a huge amount of comment on the Racers; most of it old and
>>>>> on recumbent forums, which give them good marks. Even less on the Tom
>>>>> Slick. I think the short list is Kojaks or Racers, so if anyone has any
>>>>> parting thoughts before I spring, please speak.
>>>>>
>>>>> Before I got my Parigi Roubaix I though the Kojaks were top o' the
>>>>> line, but they don't feel quite as spritely as the Challenges. OTOH, not
>>>>> many tires are and I must say that of all the 59X ~ 32s I've used, the Ks
>>>>> are so far the best. I've not used the Racers and it has been too long
>>>>> since I used Tom Slicks -- 13-15 years?
>>>>>
>>>>> Interested first in speed with sufficient width to bear up under rear
>>>>> loads (otherwise I'd use the 1" Turbos in my stash), then flat resistance,
>>>>> then longevity, then cost.
>>>>>
>>>>> Thanks, Patrick
>>>>>
>>>>>
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