[Repeater-Builder] Wanted 146.94T/.34 R Crystals for Master II

[Jim]

I am looking for a set of crystals for the 146.94 T/ 146.34 R repeater 
pair for a GE Master II Repeater.  If they are in TCXO's, I will also 
provide a set of working TCXO's in return.
Jim - [EMAIL PROTECTED]

[Repeater-Builder] Re:Software for Yaesu/Vertec 5000

[Stephen Liggett]

George,

I had the same problem and finally got it off the 3.5" floppy.

I have that software, burned on a CD. I also made a "DOS boot disk"  
that will work on any Pentium-etc based modern computer to allow the  
old Vertex software to work on the off-chance that Windows is so  
bogged-up it can't handle it!

I can send it to you by mail, or E-mail it to you. Let me know your  
preference.

Steve WA4BVO

Trustee, KB3OKL Repeater, Clarksville MD

[Repeater-Builder] Re: Phelps Dodge 526 frequency range

[mdnosliw]

--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "mdnosliw" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> 
wrote:
>
> I recently picked up a Phelps Dodge 526-5 on e-bay. The auction 
stated 
> that it would work in the ham band. When I received it I discovered 
> that it was a 470 to 512 mhz model.
> 
> If I replace the cables can I get it to tune down to the 440 segment 
> of the band.
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Mark

Thanks for the info Bob. I know that there are different versions of 
the notch filter, but I think that relates to filter bandwidth.

Yes I have the cable length chart, but I think I prefer to use RG-
400.Should not be a big deal to do the math.

I have 3 526's and think it is the best Uhf duplexer that can be had.


Thanks
Mark
>

Re: [Repeater-Builder] Too fast squelch on GE Master

[no6b]

At 1/27/2007 19:18, you wrote:

> >> Bob Wrote:
> >> FWIW, I never use pin 10 at all;
> > Kevin wrote:
> > I try to use that pin when I can, and prefer it over the open emitter
> > shunt switches.
>
>Incidentally, the Link-Comm board uses the 2.2 uF cap / pin 10
>combination to drive the COR output...
>FWIW

Really!  I noticed some decay problems with an RLC-MOT we have on an SCom 
7k.  I've always attributed it to COS line propagation delay in the 
controller, but perhaps the 2.2 µF cap is the major culprit.  We solved the 
problem by using the onboard audio gating, which I see uses pins 6 & 7 of 
the Micor squelch IC.

Bob NO6B

Re: [Repeater-Builder] Micor Receiver Wanted

[Mark Tomany]

Kevin, Gervais, and all...
   
  I'm not sure if UHF elements are redone at the same price as a VHF or not, 
but the last UHF one I had done at ICM cost me $55... tuned right up with no 
problems.  
   
  No muss, no fuss.  ;-) 
   
  Mark - N9WYS

Kevin Custer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
 snip 
  I can supply you a good donor K1005 Micor 
channel element for do-it-yourself re-crystaling, or offer to have it 
recrystaled and temperature compensated for the going price at ICM or BOMAR.

Re: [Repeater-Builder] Too fast squelch on GE Master

[no6b]

At 1/27/2007 18:37, you wrote:

>>the circuit I've been using is at
>>http://www.tasma.org/micorsq.png.
>>
>
>I see some potentially major problems with the TASMA circuit, as it is not 
>a replica of the OEM Motorola circuitry; like the one I provided.

That circuit is essentially a copy of a circuit designed by Bill Wood W6FXJ 
(ex-WB6FXJ) of the Goldstone ARC/JPLARC in 1979.  Bill also included some 
active pre-filtering which I later determined had no effect.  As far as the 
other differences go, I've never analyzed them in detail but knowing Bill, 
he wouldn't make a change without a good reason.  I suppose I should send 
him a query sometime & find out just what his reasoning was for the changes.

I never thought pin 10 was ever intended to drive a squelch gate.  The one 
thing I like most about the Micor squelch is how fast the decay time is for 
strong signals: at around a millisecond or two, it's even faster than the 
Mastr II fast squelch.  If it's done right (not just the circuit itself but 
the audio gating as well - no "pops") & the user doesn't have a "dirty" 
unkey, you almost can't tell when the user stopped TXing.  Of course now 
with ADMs abound, I guess the squelch decay time isn't as important anymore.

>inconsistent with the OEM Micor circuitry.  Maybe they don't make that 
>much difference in real world use, but I'll bet my money on the original 
>Micor circuitry.
>
>YMMV...
>Kevin

FWIW, the adapted FXJ Micor squelch circuit is in use on at least 7 systems 
here on 220 & 440 MHz & has worked quite well for us.  The power supply 
filtering on pin 9 could be improved, though I think it was assumed that 
the power was from a "clean source", & in many cases is actually from the 
regulated 10 V bus of the G.E. MVP.

Bob NO6B

Re: [Repeater-Builder] Article Ideas needed - a new article on mobile installs

[Mike Morris WA6ILQ]

I'd be very interested in seeing something on it.

Just write it up as a word file, and insert any photos you want into
the Word file.  When you are done, please zip it and then add to
the zip file any photos you used (think of the zip file as an envelope
for all the files involved with your article).

When you shoot the photos please use the largest format your
camera will generate, and let us resize them to the appropriate
size in the article.

Thanks!

Mike WA6ILQ

At 01:56 PM 01/27/07, you wrote:
I'm far from an expert, but I'd be willing to write up something 
about my current mobile install 
(http://www.w9vt.org/pictures/dixie/dixie2.jpg 
&  http://www.w9vt.org/pictures/dixie/riley%20driving.jpg ) 
expierences I have had (what worked, what hasn't) with some pics. 
You have given me alot of good info over the past few years and I 
would like to pay back a little.\


Tom
W9SRV

- Original Message 
From: Mike Morris WA6ILQ <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, January 26, 2007 10:23:39 PM
Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Article Ideas needed - a new article on 
mobile installs


I've received an interesting suggestion / request for a new
article for the repeater-builder web site.

Topic: Mobile installations.

I have a bit of a problem on this - because it's so wide a
topic - where do you start, and where do you stop?

I've seen an install that was just a handheld coupled to
a mag mount.

I've seen an install that had a Kenwood mobile in
the glovebox with a fold-over trunk lip antenna. When
the driver parked, he tossed the mic into the glovebox,
closed the door, popped the trunk lid and folded the
antenna over and closed the lid.  Instant invisible
installation.

I've seen an install with an Alinco in the dash where a
optional CD player would go, with a disguise fender
mount antenna.

I've seen a 2m/440 J-pole at the top of a 6 foot piece of
steel rod screwed into a CB whip ball mount... the coax
from the J-pole was taped to the rod, and plugged into
a panel-mount BNC mounted in the car body next to
the ball mount.  He referred to it as an elevated feed
point antenna, and claimed it worked better than
anything else he'd tried.

I've seen a installation of a Mastr-II with a front mount
control head, bolted to the underside of the roof of a
road grader, with the ball mount base less than 8
inches from the radios antenna jack.  I guess the
installer believed in short feedlines.

I've seen a van that had two 19" racks bolted to the
floor in front of the back doors and the doors were
opened to allow work on the rear of the equipment.
An old Moto "J" cabinet lived behind the drivers seat.
And the gear was powered by a Caterpillar bulldozer
battery and a second alternator.

I've seen a ex-California Highway Patrol car with wall-to-wall
control heads, eight microphones, a trunk full of radios, and
nine mobile antennas, including the original CHP twin
ball-mount whips (used for 6m and low-band commercial).

I've seen a commercial police car console mounted in
a Chevy Tahoe, with three Kenwood 742s, a scanner,
and a Spectra on 900mhz...
One 742 had 10m, 6m and 2m, the second had 220,
440 and 1200mhz.
The third had a second 440 module plus the
not-imported-to-the-USA double-high 2400mhz module.
Oh - and in the console between the scanner and the
cup holders was a CD changer.  Gotta have some
tunes on long road trips...

I've seen a private aircraft (a Cessna) with two amateur
radios and three LMR radios in it.  The antennas were
standard NMOs  mounted into inspection plates on
the belly of the plane.

My first mobile install was a dynamotor based radio in
a 1957 Buick.  My next was two Motracs and a Standard
mobile in a 71 Ford station wagon.  My most recent was
a Kenwood dualbander in a Volvo 940.  It will have a
900mhz ex-commercial radio mounted next to it soon.

So my dilemma is this:
How basic do I go?

Where to start?

How do I handle conflicting opinions (like fusing the
negative lead of a front-mount radio) ?

Now mind you - I do computer systems for a living
and radio as a hobby.  I've not done a "professional"
install in several years.  I know that there are group
members that do installs every day for a living.

So what I came up with is this:  I'm asking the
members of this group to write the article.

I'd like you folks to give me your opinions, or even
to take a stab at writing a section of the article itself.

I'll take all contributions and merge them into a finished
article.
I will list ALL contributors (unless specified otherwise) to
the article as co-authors.  Any photos will have credit.
Any differences of opinion will be handled by presenting
ALL sides.

I will post the article as it develops in a "hidden" folder, and
the contributors will be able to view it as it proceeds and
comment.  Only when most everybody is happy will it
"go public".

Replies can be made to a comment thread here, or if
you want to be ano

Re: [Repeater-Builder] Too fast squelch on GE Master

[Kevin Custer]

>> Bob Wrote:
>> FWIW, I never use pin 10 at all; 
> Kevin wrote:
> I try to use that pin when I can, and prefer it over the open emitter 
> shunt switches. 

Incidentally, the Link-Comm board uses the 2.2 uF cap / pin 10 
combination to drive the COR output...
FWIW

Kevin

Re: [Repeater-Builder] Micor Receiver Wanted

[Kevin Custer]

Hi again,

I take 150.8 to 162 or 162 to 174 MHz receivers and convert them to the 
142 to 150.8 MHz band.
Look here:
http://www.repeater-builder.com/rbtip/sensitronRX.html
http://www.repeater-builder.com/rbtip/micorhelicalresearch.html
http://www.repeater-builder.com/rbtip/coilinstructions.html

If you don't have a donor VHF receiver (I'm guessing you don't since you 
have a UHF receiver), I can supply a complete receiver unit properly 
converted to be an exact clone of the TLDXX72 (142 to 150.8 MHz.) for 
$125.00 US, plus shipping.  I can supply you a good donor K1005 Micor 
channel element for do-it-yourself re-crystaling, or offer to have it 
recrystaled and temperature compensated for the going price at ICM or BOMAR.

In my opinion, replacing the UHF receiver with a good Micor VHF 2M unit 
will give you the performance and reliability you are looking for.

These are *properly* converted receivers that will work identically to a 
real (rare) factory 2 meter Micor receiver, not some hack job.

Kevin Custer

BTW:  I also convert 150.8 to 174 Micor preamps to operate in the 2M band:
http://www.repeater-builder.com/rbtip/micorpreamp.html

gervais fillion wrote:
> Kevin
> thanks for the response
> i am working on converting a big pager transmetter,Motorola Micor 125 watts 
> SHD ,it receive in UHF and his TX is low split at 140.?? mhz
> so by replacing the receiver in uhf i should be able to modify it Kevin for 
> our project here.
> i must say that i am not a tech but i have the Moto Manual with it so with 
> some help i should be ablei will swap the receiver uit and after will 
> see what happens :-)
>
> i had a suggestion to replace the uhf receiver by a Phoenix Vhf and use his 
> receiver part for my project by since i may find a used receiver at a good 
> price it could be less problematic to fix it!
>
> what were the mods that have been done on the other card Kevin?
>
>
> we plan to install this transmetter on a 3000 feets mountains so we need 
> reliabity and this Micor should do the job
>
> 73/s Kevin
>
> Gervais ve2ckn
> Bic,quebec
>
>
> gervais fillion wrote:
>  > hi all
>  > i am looking for a used Micor receiver his parts number is "TLD 8272B "
>  > if you have 1 and want to sell it ,let me know your price
>  > thanks in advance
>  >
>  > gervais,ve2ckn
>
> Would you consider a TLD 8273B that has been properly converted to a TLD
> 8272B?
>
> Kevin Custer

Re: [Repeater-Builder] Too fast squelch on GE Master

[Kevin Custer]

[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

At 1/26/2007 16:09, you wrote:

  
The only thing I can say is try one for yourself.  If you don't want to 
spend the $50 or so on the Link-Comm unit (cheap in my opinion), you can 
adapt a Micor audio/squelch board into a Mastr II, or get a chip off of a 
board and build one of these circuits yourself - maybe for a little less:



Hope this helps...
Kevin Custer



Hmmm, that's an awfully big capacitor hanging off of pin 10.  I assume that 
"COS out" is used to drive some visual indicator, as the 2.2 µF cap. will 
prevent really fast short squelch (< 3 millisecond) closing action.
  


That capacitor size is what is in some Mobiles and all Station A&S boards.
In a Micor EMS mobile repeater, its value is 3.3 uF.
FWIW, I never use pin 10 at all; 


I try to use that pin when I can, and prefer it over the open emitter 
shunt switches.   The pin is not used elsewhere in the Station, it's 
only connected to the 2.2 uF cap to ground.  In most Mobiles, the value 
of the pin 10 cap is .47 uF. and the signal there is called RUI 
(receiver unsquelched indicator). 

I use this circuit to buffer the output of pin 10.  It was copied 
directly from the Railroad Micor:

http://www.repeater-builder.com/pix/cosswitch.gif
It was in working with the Railroad Micor that I found that using pin 10 
of the chip (pin 8 of the A&S board) and the associated transistor 
buffer to be my choice of COS generation when using the Micor Squelch 
Chip.  In the Railroad Micor, the value of the pin 10 cap is 2.2 uF.  It 
might be that 2.2 uF is too big to achieve 3 millisecond or less 
closure, but I never thought using this value made it too slow?  Most of 
our conversions are Mobiles, where the default value is .47 uF.  It 
might be that this output is fairly robust, and the actual value is not 
critical...  I don't know, I never measured the differences when using 
different size capacitors here.


the circuit I've been using is at 
http://www.tasma.org/micorsq.png.
  


I see some potentially major problems with the TASMA circuit, as it is 
not a replica of the OEM Motorola circuitry; like the one I provided.
I see a potential for problems with the values of the capacitors 
associated with the input pre-emphasis, they are C3, and C4 in my 
diagram.  The series cap after the squelch pot is 15 times smaller than 
OEM, and the cap across the pre-emphasis resistor is twice the original 
value.  Then is the value between pins 1, and 2; it's less than half the 
OEM size and with a 100 pF hanging on the output, that's a big deal.  
Then is the cap going to pin 4, likely not a big deal, but we've already 
made several caps in this chain smaller than OEM.  Then is the obviously 
too small power supply decoupling cap on pin 9 (.01 uF) after the 15 ohm 
series resistor.  The squelch chip draws some current, and a .01 is just 
too small.  These values are *very* inconsistent with the OEM Micor 
circuitry.  Maybe they don't make that much difference in real world 
use, but I'll bet my money on the original Micor circuitry.


YMMV...
Kevin

Re: [Repeater-Builder] Micor Receiver Wanted

[gervais fillion]

vhf low split,
between 144 and 148 MHZ


Original Message Follows
From: Robert Ryan <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Reply-To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Micor Receiver Wanted
Date: Sat, 27 Jan 2007 18:05:17 -0800

what freq?
   - Original Message -
   From: gervais fillion
   To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
   Sent: Saturday, January 27, 2007 2:17 PM
   Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Micor Receiver Wanted


   hi all
   i am looking for a used Micor receiver his parts number is "TLD 8272B "
   if you have 1 and want to sell it ,let me know your price
   thanks in advance

   gervais,ve2ckn

   __
   Windows Live Spaces: partagez vos photos du Nouvel An!
   http://discoverspaces.live.com/?loc=fr-CA

_
Ne perdez pas de temps dans les files d’attente… magasinez en ligne.  
http://magasiner.sympatico.msn.ca

Re: [Repeater-Builder] Micor Receiver Wanted

[gervais fillion]

Kevin
thanks for the response
i am working on converting a big pager transmetter,Motorola Micor 125 watts 
SHD ,it receive in UHF and his TX is low split at 140.?? mhz
so by replacing the receiver in uhf i should be able to modify it Kevin for 
our project here.
i must say that i am not a tech but i have the Moto Manual with it so with 
some help i should be ablei will swap the receiver uit and after will 
see what happens :-)

i had a suggestion to replace the uhf receiver by a Phoenix Vhf and use his 
receiver part for my project by since i may find a used receiver at a good 
price it could be less problematic to fix it!

what were the mods that have been done on the other card Kevin?


we plan to install this transmetter on a 3000 feets mountains so we need 
reliabity and this Micor should do the job

73/s Kevin

Gervais ve2ckn
Bic,quebec

Original Message Follows
From: Kevin Custer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Reply-To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Micor Receiver Wanted
Date: Sat, 27 Jan 2007 18:21:00 -0500

gervais fillion wrote:
 > hi all
 > i am looking for a used Micor receiver his parts number is "TLD 8272B "
 > if you have 1 and want to sell it ,let me know your price
 > thanks in advance
 >
 > gervais,ve2ckn

Would you consider a TLD 8273B that has been properly converted to a TLD
8272B?

Kevin Custer

_
Achetez ce que vous voulez, quand vous voulez sur Sympatico / MSN Magasiner 
http://magasiner.sympatico.msn.ca/content/shp/?ctId=101,ptnrid=176,ptnrdata=081805

[Repeater-Builder] 2007 IRLP Conference is Friday April 13 - Sunday April 15, 2007 in Las Vegas

[Nevada Amateur Radio Repeaters, Inc.]

The date for the 2007 IRLP Conference is Friday April 13 - Sunday April 15,
2007  just before the National Association of Broadcasters (NAB) conference,
also in Las Vegas. 

 

http://www.narri.org/Annual_IRLP_Conference.html

 

http://www.narri.org/IRLP_Conference_Details.html 

 

http://www.narri.org/IRLP_Conference_Registration_Form.html 

 

For more information contact Kent W7AOR at w7aor at narri dot org

 

[Repeater-Builder] Need Tait800 UHF Slimline Documentation & Programming

[Paul Metzger]

It is a T800 Series 1 Slimline which requires the PROMs to be  
programmed. I need documentation, software, and to find out what  
hardware (exact models) I will need to acquire in order to program  
the proms, including cables.

All it has is a single rack panel with a T855-20 Receiver, T856-20  
Exciter/Amplifier and a terminal strip attached. It has a date on it  
of October 1996.
I need documentation in order to find out how to interface it to a  
homebrew controller, which will then tie into an AOR Digital Voice  
modem.

I hope to make it into a repeater for the Digital Voice Amateur Radio  
Association.

Any help will be much appreciated !

Thanks !

Paul Metzger
KQ6EH

--

> Paul,
>
> There are two versions of the Tait T800s. Series I and Series II.  
> Series
> I use PROMs for channel information and Series II use EEPROMs. The  
> older
> version needs a PROM programmer and the newer version just needs the
> correct software and a serial interface cable. The newer version's
> documentation is available in PDF form, but AFAIK, the older  is only
> available in printed form.
>
> Ed Yoho
> WA6RQD

Re: [Repeater-Builder] Micor Receiver Wanted

[Robert Ryan]

what freq?
  - Original Message - 
  From: gervais fillion 
  To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Saturday, January 27, 2007 2:17 PM
  Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Micor Receiver Wanted


  hi all
  i am looking for a used Micor receiver his parts number is "TLD 8272B "
  if you have 1 and want to sell it ,let me know your price
  thanks in advance

  gervais,ve2ckn

  __
  Windows Live Spaces: partagez vos photos du Nouvel An! 
  http://discoverspaces.live.com/?loc=fr-CA



   

[Repeater-Builder] WTB Moto. Touch Tone mic. and/or parts

[kb5dpe]

I need a working keypad assy. for a Moto. HMN1037 series touch tone 
mic. or parts to repair mine. Will consider a non working mic. if the 
keypad works and numbers can be read. Prefer email as I always forget 
to check for messages on the board. Email is tallinson2 (at) yahoo 
(dot) com. Thanks

[Repeater-Builder] 2007 IRLP/VoIP Conference is Friday April 13 - Sunday April 15,

[w7aor]

Register now!

The date for the 2007 IRLP Conference is Friday April 13 - Sunday April 
15, 2007 just before the National Association of Broadcasters (NAB) 
conference,also in Las Vegas. 

http://www.narri.org/Annual_IRLP_Conference.html

http://www.narri.org/IRLP_Conference_Details.html 

http://www.narri.org/IRLP_Conference_Registration_Form.html 

For more information contact Kent W7AOR at w7aor at narri dot org

Re: [Repeater-Builder] Too fast squelch on GE Master

[no6b]

At 1/26/2007 16:09, you wrote:

>The only thing I can say is try one for yourself.  If you don't want to 
>spend the $50 or so on the Link-Comm unit (cheap in my opinion), you can 
>adapt a Micor audio/squelch board into a Mastr II, or get a chip off of a 
>board and build one of these circuits yourself - maybe for a little less:
>
>
>Hope this helps...
>Kevin Custer

Hmmm, that's an awfully big capacitor hanging off of pin 10.  I assume that 
"COS out" is used to drive some visual indicator, as the 2.2 µF cap. will 
prevent really fast short squelch (< 3 millisecond) closing action.

FWIW, I never use pin 10 at all; the circuit I've been using is at 
http://www.tasma.org/micorsq.png.

Bob NO6B

Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Antenna on the side of a water tower

[no6b]

At 1/27/2007 10:45, you wrote:
>I don't think you are going to be able to model it to your satisfaction with
>any software you or I could afford.  Perhaps you need to adopt an empirical
>approach, put up an antenna and see what you get.  Drive test it, take field
>strength readings, plot and graph the real world data as much as you want.
>Then you can add in small tweaks in spacing, heading and gain.

If the water tower face is sufficiently large compared to your wavelength 
(70 cm?), it will just look like an infinite vertical ground, in which case 
your pattern away from the tower will be 3 dB above the omni spec for your 
antenna, & coverage behind will be 0.

Bob NO6B

Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: LMR-1200

[no6b]

At 1/27/2007 06:47, you wrote:
>LMR-1200 has about .9dB loss for 100 feet
>LDF4-50A has about 1.45dB loss for 100 feet
>
>At first glance, it looks like you can gain a little more than 1/2dB by 
>using LMR-1200.  Now. the real world.  LMR-1200 will require a jumper at 
>the top and the bottom of the cable run. (It's too big to connect directly 
>to the antenna or the duplexer at the bottom).  This means that you will 
>have to have 4 additional connectors and 2 short lengths of jumper cable 
>when using LMR-1200.  This will add up to much more loss than the 1/2dB 
>you saved by using LMR-1200.

Good N connectors are virtually lossless @ 450 MHz, & 4 ft. of RG-214 (2 
ft. each jumper) has 0.2 dB loss.  I know there's a difference of opinion 
on this subject, but I'd never directly connect LDF4-50 to an antenna.

However, the real reason not to use LMR-1200 in duplex feeds is the 
braid-over-foil shield, which will eventually cause desense & IMD.  The key 
word is "eventually": maybe 6 months after install, maybe 30 
years.  Nothing like solid copper to keep those stray electrons in line  ;)

Bob NO6B

RE: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Audio Distorted

[Eric Lemmon]

Perhaps the receive crystal was changed without having the channel element
temperature compensated with it...?

73, Eric Lemmon WB6FLY
 

-Original Message-
From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Nate Duehr
Sent: Saturday, January 27, 2007 3:53 PM
To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Audio Distorted

On 1/27/07, Don KA9QJG <[EMAIL PROTECTED]  >
wrote:

-Right on  Freq with Counter and Disc Meter
-

The IF chain could be mistuned while the resulting frequency at the end is
correct, causing problems.  

I do recall yrs ago having a Micor in the trunk in the Cold Winters
around N/W Indiana it sounded off Freq,  but  after a Few Min of
Transmitting  it Warmed up and sounded Great and Again I am talking about
the receive , I think I will temporally put a 100Watt light in the 4 ft
cabinet and see if I still have the Problem 


Only a temporary fix.  Find the real problem.  A properly tuned radio of
this vintage with no other problems will NOT exhibit the behavior you're
describing.  The one in your trunk unfortunately was also not being
maintained properly, either... making you think this is a normal thing for
Micor's.  

I respectfully submit that I know a heck of a lot more about MASTR II's than
I do about Micor's, but even with that in mind... It's not normal behavior.
Something's still wrong.  If the light bulb fixes it, at least you'll know
it's temperature-related, and can easily take it to a workbench or on-site
start spraying things with cold spray to find the real problem. 


Nate WY0X

RE: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Antenna on the side of a water tower

[Eric Lemmon]

Joe,

I don't think those three panel antennas are combined at all.  Most cellular
and PCS providers are using 120-degree panel antennas to cover three
120-degree sectors, each with its own base station, effectively tripling
their capacity.  The older omnidirectional antenna cell sites- usually a
cluster of fiberglass vertical pairs, one pointing up and one pointing down-
are being retrofitted with panel antennas.  Panel antennas are much easier
to camouflage, and they can be physically tilted for better close-in
coverage.

One solution to obtaining omnidirectional coverage around a water tank-
assuming your site owner will allow you to put up three antennas- is to use
a voter to select the best signal from three low-gain Yagi antennas, and
switch the transmitter output to that antenna.  I suppose combining would
work, but I wonder if destructive cancellation will rear its ugly head.

73, Eric Lemmon WB6FLY
 

-Original Message-
From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Joe
Sent: Saturday, January 27, 2007 3:17 PM
To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Antenna on the side of a water tower



One of the carriers does something similar. They put panel antennas on 
each of the 3 faces, then combine them into one omni-directional antenna 
system. It does work. I know of several water tank installations that are 
just like this.

Joe

Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Antenna on the side of a water tower

[Joe]

I remember that article and I was going to do something similar on a wide 
faced tower that I was trying to get space on.  It was a CATV head-end 
tower that was full of log periodic antennas, the only available height was 
from 125 feet to the bottom.  I almost got the project started when the 
cable company got bought out and I lost all my contacts with the owner.

Anyway, if I had access to a water tank and had space available around the 
tank, I would mount 3 antennas equally spaced around the tank.  If the 
antennas were shielded from each other by the water tank, I would probably 
try omni-directional antennas to keep it simple.  I would then use a 3-way 
power splitter to combine the 3 antennas and just deal with the 6dB hit in 
signal for the ability to have omni-directional coverage.  You can make up 
for the 6dB in the transmit path by raising the power output, but there 
isn't much you can do on the receive side except keep the receiver running 
a well as possible.  These splitters are available, see:
http://www.rfhamdesign.com/products/powersplitters/3waysplitter/index.html
for an example of what I am talking about.  Similar design units are 
available from a company in the Northeast, but I don't remember the name or 
location.

One of the carriers does something similar.  They put panel antennas on 
each of the 3 faces, then combine them into one omni-directional antenna 
system.  It does work.  I know of several water tank installations that are 
just like this.

Joe


At 03:00 PM 1/27/2007 -0600, you wrote:

>This idea was in a ham magazine years ago, to solve a similar problem. It 
>was on a very large tower, with a large face. This particular application 
>used three sets of phased beams (two at each leg, fired tangentially to 
>the tower). You have to start out with a bunch of gain at each leg, not 
>just a dB224 or such. He used 2 five or so element beams on each leg. He 
>fed them with a three way power divider made out of copper pipe to get the 
>proper impedances. I wish I knew where the article was. I am thinking it 
>was not in QST but maybe one of the ham technical mags that is still no 
>longer around. I would search Google just in case a similar application is 
>documented. He said it worked OK and gave him a somewhat circular pattern, 
>albeit no more than 3-4 dB.
>
>Now that I think about it, with all the wireless stuff (cell antennas) 
>that I have seen mounted around a water tower single legs (the modern 
>towers), on buildings at each face, etc. , I bet there is info out there 
>that you can tailor for your needs using the phased antenna approach.
>
>Roger W5RD

Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Audio Distorted

[Nate Duehr]

On 1/27/07, Don KA9QJG <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:



-Right on  Freq with Counter and Disc Meter -



The IF chain could be mistuned while the resulting frequency at the end is
correct, causing problems.

I do recall yrs ago having a Micor in the trunk in the Cold Winters around

N/W Indiana it sounded off Freq,  but  after a Few Min of Transmitting  it
Warmed up and sounded Great and Again I am talking about the receive , I
think I will temporally put a 100Watt light in the 4 ft cabinet and see if I
still have the Problem



Only a temporary fix.  Find the real problem.  A properly tuned radio of
this vintage with no other problems will NOT exhibit the behavior you're
describing.  The one in your trunk unfortunately was also not being
maintained properly, either... making you think this is a normal thing for
Micor's.

I respectfully submit that I know a heck of a lot more about MASTR II's than
I do about Micor's, but even with that in mind... It's not normal behavior.
Something's still wrong.  If the light bulb fixes it, at least you'll know
it's temperature-related, and can easily take it to a workbench or on-site
start spraying things with cold spray to find the real problem.

Nate WY0X

Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Antenna on the side of a water tower

[N8BQN]

Somehow I recollect that describing the 'extremely healty' Clarkston
machine (near Detroit) ~ 3 TX yagis & a single RX stik atop...

> Roger White wrote:
> This idea was in a ham magazine years ago, to solve a similar problem.
It was on a very large tower, with a large face. This particular
application used three sets of phased beams (two at each leg, fired
tangentially to the tower).

Re: [Repeater-Builder] Micor Receiver Wanted

[Kevin Custer]

gervais fillion wrote:
> hi all
> i am looking for a used Micor receiver his parts number is "TLD 8272B "
> if you have 1 and want to sell it ,let me know your price
> thanks in advance
>
> gervais,ve2ckn

Would you consider a TLD 8273B that has been properly converted to a TLD 
8272B?

Kevin Custer

[Repeater-Builder] Micor Receiver Wanted

[gervais fillion]

hi all
i am looking for a used Micor receiver his parts number is "TLD 8272B "
if you have 1 and want to sell it ,let me know your price
thanks in advance

gervais,ve2ckn

_
Windows Live Spaces: partagez vos photos du Nouvel An! 
http://discoverspaces.live.com/?loc=fr-CA

Re: [Repeater-Builder] Phelps Dodge 526 frequency range

[Bob M.]

Yes. The duplexer itself doesn't require any changes,
just new cables cut to the proper length, then proper
tuning.

There's a file on www.repeater-builder.com that has
the end-to-end lengths for RG214. The two cables that
go to the TEE connector are a different length than
the other four.

These units should give you 0.5dB (per section) or
less of passband loss and 40dB (per section) or more
of reject loss.

Bob M.
==
--- mdnosliw <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> I recently picked up a Phelps Dodge 526-5 on e-bay.
> The auction stated 
> that it would work in the ham band. When I received
> it I discovered 
> that it was a 470 to 512 mhz model.
> 
> If I replace the cables can I get it to tune down to
> the 440 segment 
> of the band.
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Mark


 

Finding fabulous fares is fun.  
Let Yahoo! FareChase search your favorite travel sites to find flight and hotel 
bargains.
http://farechase.yahoo.com/promo-generic-14795097

[Repeater-Builder] Re: Antenna on the side of a water tower

[Laryn Lohman]

--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "Roger White"
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> I am thinking it was not in QST but maybe one of the ham technical
>mags that is still no longer around. 

Seems like it was Ham Radio Magazine.  Don't know which issue; early
80s, maybe?  I may have it around here somewhere if y'all get desperate.

> Now that I think about it, with all the wireless stuff (cell
antennas) that I have seen mounted around a water tower single legs
(the modern towers), on buildings at each face, etc. , I bet there is
info out there that you can tailor for your needs using the phased
antenna approach.
> 
> Roger W5RD

Except don't forget that cell antennas usually are not used and phased
in the way we may be discussing here.  

Laryn K8TVZ

Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Antenna on the side of a water tower

[Roger White]

This idea was in a ham magazine years ago, to solve a similar problem. It was 
on a very large tower, with a large face. This particular application used 
three sets of phased beams (two at each leg, fired tangentially to the tower). 
You have to start out with a bunch of gain at each leg, not just a dB224 or 
such. He used 2 five or so element beams on each leg. He fed them with a three 
way power divider made out of copper pipe to get the proper impedances. I wish 
I knew where the article was. I am thinking it was not in QST but maybe one of 
the ham technical mags that is still no longer around. I would search Google 
just in case a similar application is documented. He said it worked OK and gave 
him a somewhat circular pattern, albeit no more than 3-4 dB. 

Now that I think about it, with all the wireless stuff (cell antennas) that I 
have seen mounted around a water tower single legs (the modern towers), on 
buildings at each face, etc. , I bet there is info out there that you can 
tailor for your needs using the phased antenna approach.

Roger W5RD


- Original Message - 
  From: tony dinkel 
  To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Saturday, January 27, 2007 12:45 PM
  Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Antenna on the side of a water tower


  I don't think you are going to be able to model it to your satisfaction with 
  any software you or I could afford. Perhaps you need to adopt an empirical 
  approach, put up an antenna and see what you get. Drive test it, take field 
  strength readings, plot and graph the real world data as much as you want. 
  Then you can add in small tweaks in spacing, heading and gain.

  I would suggest starting with a low gain antenna, like maybe a 4 bay folded 
  dipole array at the easiest to mount spacing from the tank. After you tweak 
  that in for a while and have a feel for how it works, perhaps you could add 
  a second antenna exactly 180 degrees on the other side of the tank. Try 0, 
  90, 180, 270 or totally random phase angles between the two antennas.

  Don't get bogged down in the math. Have fun with it. Last time I checked, 
  ham radio is still a hobby.

  td, empiricist
  wb6mie

  >It's hard to put into text.
  >
  >What I'd like to do, is get back to the more omni pattern if at all
  >possible. The way everything is situated, if I put the antenna on the
  >side of the tower facing through most of our coverage area, I think it
  >will end up with too much gain in that direction, twoard another
  >repeater to the northeast.
  >
  >Mostly, I'm just looking for a way to model what happens, ideally in
  >something that radio mobile can digest, and I'll work it out from there.
  >
  >

  __
  Search for grocery stores. Find gratitude. Turn a simple search into 
  something more. 
  
http://click4thecause.live.com/search/charity/default.aspx?source=hmemtagline_gratitude&FORM=WLMTAG



   

[Repeater-Builder] Phelps Dodge 526 frequency range

[mdnosliw]

I recently picked up a Phelps Dodge 526-5 on e-bay. The auction stated 
that it would work in the ham band. When I received it I discovered 
that it was a 470 to 512 mhz model.

If I replace the cables can I get it to tune down to the 440 segment 
of the band.

Thanks

Mark

Re: [Repeater-Builder] Need Tait800 UHF Slimline Documentation & Programming

[Ed Yoho]

Paul Metzger wrote:

>Anyone able to help me with manuals for a Tait800 Slimline UHF  
>(T855-20 and T856-20). I also need to find out how to program it and  
>what is required to do so.
>
>  I appreciate any help, Thanks !
>
>
>Paul MEtzger
>KQ6EH
>
>  
>
Paul,

There are two versions of the Tait T800s. Series I and Series II. Series 
I use PROMs for channel information and Series II use EEPROMs. The older 
version needs a PROM programmer and the newer version just needs the 
correct software and a serial interface cable. The newer version's 
documentation is available in PDF form, but AFAIK, the older  is only 
available in printed form.

If you are unsure as to which version you have, remove the top cover and 
look just forward of where the DB15 is. If there is a 28 pin DIP on a 
small daughter board, they are series I.

If you are going to use these in southern California, due to the 20 KHz 
channel spacing, if they are series I you will need to use a hex editor 
to generate your EPROM files as the factory software did not support 20 
KHz (only 12.5 & 25 KHz).

Ed Yoho
WA6RQD
 

[Repeater-Builder] Re: Antenna on the side of a water tower

[tony dinkel]

I don't think you are going to be able to model it to your satisfaction with 
any software you or I could afford.  Perhaps you need to adopt an empirical 
approach, put up an antenna and see what you get.  Drive test it, take field 
strength readings, plot and graph the real world data as much as you want.  
Then you can add in small tweaks in spacing, heading and gain.

I would suggest starting with a low gain antenna, like maybe a 4 bay folded 
dipole array at the easiest to mount spacing from the tank.  After you tweak 
that in for a while and have a feel for how it works, perhaps you could add 
a second antenna exactly 180 degrees on the other side of the tank.  Try 0, 
90, 180, 270 or totally random phase angles between the two antennas.

Don't get bogged down in the math.  Have fun with it.  Last time I checked, 
ham radio is still a hobby.

td, empiricist
wb6mie


>It's hard to put into text.
>
>What I'd like to do, is get back to the more omni pattern if at all
>possible.  The way everything is situated, if I put the antenna on the
>side of the tower facing through most of our coverage area, I think it
>will end up with too much gain in that direction, twoard another
>repeater to the northeast.
>
>Mostly, I'm just looking for a way to model what happens, ideally in
>something that radio mobile can digest, and I'll work it out from there.
>
>

_
Search for grocery stores. Find gratitude. Turn a simple search into 
something more. 
http://click4thecause.live.com/search/charity/default.aspx?source=hmemtagline_gratitude&FORM=WLMTAG

[Repeater-Builder] 6 Meter Duplexer- Purchase or Design

[David Struebel]

I am thinking of putting up a 6 meter repeater... Any suggestions on the 
heliax designs or available commercial
units.

Dave WB2FTX

Re: [Repeater-Builder] UHF Micor Off Frequency

[Kevin Custer]

Everyone knows that we hams SHOULD send in our elements when we 
recrystal, so I'm not going to beat everyone to death on that


Laryn, Since you said you have more than one element, try a different 
one


If that doesn't work, try Jeff DePolo's suggestion a few weeks ago from 
MSG# 67916:
*BUT*  You'll need a larger cap since you are too high in freq.  A few 
pF will make a big difference since the multiplication factor is 36.


/There is a fixed cap, typically in the range of 20 to 39 pF, located 
more or less behind the trimmer. I can send you a pic if necessary to 
confirm which cap it is. You'll need to replace that cap with a 
different value (probably a few pF less if you're only 10 kHz off at 
present). Usually this cap is NP0 temperature coefficient, but not 
always. DO NOT put in some random cap with poor thermal stability; stick 
with an NP0 and hope that it remains stable under temperature 
variations. If you really want accurate compensation, you should send 
the element to ICM and have them do it.


--- Jeff/

Hope this helps...
Kevin


Laryn Lohman wrote:

I just installed a new TX crystal into a KXN1052 channel element on a
Micor exciter today.  The crystal is from ICM.  It will not come on
channel.  The ordered frequency is 445.125; it comes no closer than
445.1375.  The crystal arrived late Friday PM, and upon installation
Friday evening, the problem was discovered.  


I realize I may need to contact ICM when the office opens on Monday
since this is a new crystal.  But, is there an easy and reliable way
to warp it down without the need to perhaps send the crystal back?  A
small cap across the crystal?  


Related question--why would a crystal from a reliable manufacturer be
off in the frist place.  Are there tolerances in the channel element
that can sometimes add up the wrong way?  I have some other elements
of the same number; is it worth trying the crystal in another one?

Laryn K8TVZ

RE: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Audio Distorted

[Gary]

Use a sinadder on the receiver when you set the frequency. Then swing the
signal generator from side to side to see if the IF is symmetrical. That way
you know that the frequency is set right to center the carrier in the
receiver pass band properly

 

73

Gary  K4FMX

 

  _  

From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Don KA9QJG
Sent: Saturday, January 27, 2007 2:02 AM
To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Audio Distorted

 

Thanks I gave that some Thoughts before I posted and someone Please correct
me if I am wrong.


The first thing that comes to mind is receiver drifting off frequency.
Try having someone come in at +1 or -1 kHz, and see if they sound 
better.

---Would that also not be on Stronger Signals? ---

If the TX was off, I'd expect your receiver AFC to follow it up to a 
point. But that would be worth checking too.

-Right on  Freq with Counter and Disc Meter -

COULD be an electrolytic in the audio path that isn't much of a cap 
when it gets cold.

Again would that not be noticed on Strong Signals?

 

I did pay a lot for the $50.00 Each Crystals From International. 

 

I do recall yrs ago having a Micor in the trunk in the Cold Winters around
N/W Indiana it sounded off Freq,  but  after a Few Min of Transmitting  it
Warmed up and sounded Great and Again I am talking about the receive , I
think I will temporally put a 100Watt light in the 4 ft cabinet and see if I
still have the Problem 

Thanks Don KA9QJG  

 

Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Antenna on the side of a water tower

[allan crites]

Skipp,
  I sure would appreciate your sending to me the PDF file scan of the Sinclair 
paper.
  Thanks,
  73, Allan Crites  wa9zzu

skipp025 <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
  Depends a lot on the size of the water tank, then the type of 
antenna and its mounted distance from the tank. Not an easy guess 
unless you have a lot of math background with some serious extra 
time. 

Most people "wing it' trying horizontal mount spacings from 
1/4 to 1/2 wave (or multiples there of...) from the tower. 

It would not directly apply here but I have previously mentioned 
and passed out to group members a pdf file scan of a Sinclair 
Authored Paper showing basic antenna distance and space mounting. 

It's still available to anyone for just requesting it once again 
by email direct from me. 

cheers,
skipp 

> "Dave VanHorn" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> 
> Can anyone point me to something that will show me the antenna pattern 
> for a VHF and UHF antenna mounted on the side of a water tank at 
> different distances from the tank?
> 
> I've been offered a site, but I can't have top mount, I have to go on 
> the side. I have the mfgr's docs showing pattern with different 
> distances between the loops and the mast, but I don't have any info on 
> how the big metal tank reflection will disturb the pattern.
> 
> I'm sure there's an optimal distance, but I don't know what it would 
> be.
>



 

[Repeater-Builder] Re: Antenna on the side of a water tower

[Dave VanHorn]

> More information would be helpful , when you say side is that same 
level as 
> the tank or looking above it with side diplacement ?

The first case, besittin' beside of it as Andy Griffith would say.

[Repeater-Builder] Re: Antenna on the side of a water tower

[Dave VanHorn]

> More information would be helpful , when you say side is that same 
level as 
> the tank or looking above it with side diplacement ?

The first case, besittin' beside of it as Andy Griffith would say.

Re: [Repeater-Builder] UHF Micor Off Frequency

[wmers5]

 
In a message dated 1/27/2007 1:31:01 A.M. Central Standard Time,  
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

Amplitude, center frequency, temperature stability, and
deviation  sensitivity.



Out of about 50 crystals in the last few years three Motorola type  were off 
frequency. I was able to modify the channel element for on frequency  
operation with good amplitude, center frequency, temperature stability,  and
deviation sensitivity.
 
Go right ahead and spend more money at the crystal house. I  wouldn't. 

[Repeater-Builder] Need Tait800 UHF Slimline Documentation & Programming

[Paul Metzger]

Anyone able to help me with manuals for a Tait800 Slimline UHF  
(T855-20 and T856-20). I also need to find out how to program it and  
what is required to do so.

  I appreciate any help, Thanks !


Paul MEtzger
KQ6EH

RE: [Repeater-Builder] UHF Micor Off Frequency

[Jim Cicirello]

Put your crystal into another element. I had the same problem and the second
element allowed me to center it right on Freq.

Good Luck  JIM  KA2AJH  

 

  _  

From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Saturday, January 27, 2007 12:29 AM
To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] UHF Micor Off Frequency

 

This is why year after year, on this list, the word is continually put out: 

Send the elements in to have the crystal manufacturer install the crystals,
temperature compensate, and net them to frequency. They know what to do.
Correctly.

Don't waste an otherwise excellent performing MICOR radio by messing up the
one piece you have control of - the crystals. You don't save money in the
long run by being cheap on the crystals and crystal manufacturer's services.


Do it right the first time and be done with it - for good.

LJ

-Original Message-
>From: Laryn Lohman <[EMAIL PROTECTED]  com>
>Sent: Jan 27, 2007 12:03 AM
>To: Repeater-Builder@ 
yahoogroups.com
>Subject: [Repeater-Builder] UHF Micor Off Frequency
>
>I just installed a new TX crystal into a KXN1052 channel element on a
>Micor exciter today. The crystal is from ICM. It will not come on
>channel. The ordered frequency is 445.125; it comes no closer than
>445.1375. The crystal arrived late Friday PM, and upon installation
>Friday evening, the problem was discovered. 
>
>I realize I may need to contact ICM when the office opens on Monday
>since this is a new crystal. But, is there an easy and reliable way
>to warp it down without the need to perhaps send the crystal back? A
>small cap across the crystal? 
>
>Related question--why would a crystal from a reliable manufacturer be
>off in the frist place. Are there tolerances in the channel element
>that can sometimes add up the wrong way? I have some other elements
>of the same number; is it worth trying the crystal in another one?
>
>Laryn K8TVZ
>

 

Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: LMR-1200

[k1ike_mail]

LMR-1200 has about .9dB loss for 100 feet
LDF4-50A has about 1.45dB loss for 100 feet

At first glance, it looks like you can gain a little more than 1/2dB by using 
LMR-1200.  Now. the real world.  LMR-1200 will require a jumper at the top and 
the bottom of the cable run. (It's too big to connect directly to the antenna 
or the duplexer at the bottom).  This means that you will have to have 4 
additional connectors and 2 short lengths of jumper cable when using LMR-1200.  
This will add up to much more loss than the 1/2dB you saved by using LMR-1200.  
Also, LDF connectors are much easier to install than LMR connectors.  Cheaper 
too.  Pulling 100 feet of LMR cable up a tower can be difficult too.  LDF is 
much easier to install and hardware, such as connectors, ground kits, snap-in 
hangers, are easier to find.

73, Joe, K1ike

 -- Original message --
From: Dan Blasberg <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Joe,
> 
> 1) I would like to, yes.
> 2) 442.500/447.500
> 
> Dan
> 
> 
> On Jan 27, 2007, at 8:00 AM, Joe wrote:
> 
> > Maybe I missed it, but I have 2 questions:
> >
> > 1) Are you going to use this for a repeater?
> > 2) What frequency(s) are you going to be using?
> >
> > Joe
> >
> >
> > --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Dan Blasberg <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> 
> > wrote:
> >>
> >> Anybody have any opinions on LMR-1200 as feedline?
> >>
> >> I have access to about 100' with N connectors at both ends, that I am
> >> thinking of using for feedline.
> >>
> >> Thanks,
> >>
> >> Dan
> >> KA8YPY
> >>
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
> >
> >
> >
> 


--- Begin Message ---













Joe,

1) I would like to, yes.
2) 442.500/447.500

Dan

On Jan 27, 2007, at 8:00 AM, Joe wrote:

> Maybe I missed it, but I have 2 questions:
>
> 1) Are you going to use this for a repeater?
> 2) What frequency(s) are you going to be using?
>
> Joe
>
>
> --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Dan Blasberg <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> 
> wrote:
>>
>> Anybody have any opinions on LMR-1200 as feedline?
>>
>> I have access to about 100' with N connectors at both ends, that I am
>> thinking of using for feedline.
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> Dan
>> KA8YPY
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>


  






--- End Message ---

Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: LMR-1200

[Dan Blasberg]

Joe,

1) I would like to, yes.
2) 442.500/447.500

Dan


On Jan 27, 2007, at 8:00 AM, Joe wrote:

> Maybe I missed it, but I have 2 questions:
>
> 1) Are you going to use this for a repeater?
> 2) What frequency(s) are you going to be using?
>
> Joe
>
>
> --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Dan Blasberg <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> 
> wrote:
>>
>> Anybody have any opinions on LMR-1200 as feedline?
>>
>> I have access to about 100' with N connectors at both ends, that I am
>> thinking of using for feedline.
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> Dan
>> KA8YPY
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>

[Repeater-Builder] Re: LMR-1200

[Joe]

Maybe I missed it, but I have 2 questions:

1) Are you going to use this for a repeater?
2) What frequency(s) are you going to be using?

Joe


--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Dan Blasberg <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> Anybody have any opinions on LMR-1200 as feedline?
> 
> I have access to about 100' with N connectors at both ends, that I am 
> thinking of using for feedline.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Dan
> KA8YPY
>

Re: [Repeater-Builder] UHF Micor Off Frequency

[N9LLO]

You will need to change the value of the cap in parallel with the trimmer to 
get it to go on freq. After that check it for excvessive temp drift. You may 
still have to send the whole element in. You can also try your other elements.

Chris
N9LLO

Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Antenna on the side of a water tower

[Barry C']

> >
> > > "Dave VanHorn" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> > >
> > >
> > > Can anyone point me to something that will show me the antenna pattern
> > > for a VHF and UHF antenna mounted on the side of a water tank at
> > > different distances from the tank?
> > >
> > > I've been offered a site, but I can't have top mount, I have to go on
> > > the side.  I have the mfgr's docs showing pattern with different
> > > distances between the loops and the mast, but I don't have any info on
> > > how the big metal tank reflection will disturb the pattern.
> > >
> > > I'm sure there's an optimal distance, but I don't know what it would
> > > be.
> > >

More information would be helpful , when you say side is that same level as 
the tank or looking above it with side diplacement ?

_
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