Re: [RCSE] TD contest thoughts

2002-02-13 Thread Russ Young

Speaking of ideas for TD contests...

You all know Harley Michaelis right?  (RDS System for control linkages)

Check out the description of his Thermal Wizard slant to the Eastern
Washington NWSS contests..sort of a contest within a contest.

http://www.aracnet.com/~eastwind/nwss/mainpages/wizard.htm



Russ Young
Bellevue, WA



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RE: Scale Soaring List [RCSE] ventus

2002-02-13 Thread Steve Dentz

The only one I know that carries the nose tow release now is Hobby
Lobby, they carried two sizes get the larger size. See this site:
http://www.hobby-lobby.com/towing.htm


Steve Dentz


-Original Message-
From: Tim Vandenheuvel [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] 
Sent: Tuesday, February 12, 2002 9:40 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: RE: Scale Soaring List [RCSE] ventus


Hi all,

About 9 months ago I picked up a 1/3 Elfe-S4 fuse from Wil Byers at SE 
Modeler also. It's from Rosenthal, and it is beautiful! The price was 
unbeatable too!. In fact I too am looking for a scale pilot and all the 
fixin's. Hopefully you guys can help me, right now I am looking for a
tow 
release mechanism. I would like the metal units that fit in the nose.
The 
tow line is placed into the release mechanism and the servo actuates a
arm 
that captures the towline. I'm sure you guys know what I am looking for,
but 
I'm not sure they have a name.

Regards,

Tim

From: brent douglas 
I heard you were looking for a scale project, guess it's official now ;

)

I bought a ventus fuse from wil byers, SEModeler .  the rosenthal 
version (1/3.5 scale) -it's beautifulhe also has full kits, and has

access to more than he advertises I'd give him a call

good luck!
brent


From: Shape  Does anyone have a Ventus 2C from www.aero-model.com , 
the
177 model, and
  what do you think of it?
  Jerry



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[RCSE] 32nd Annual Snow Fly

2002-02-13 Thread Jack Iafret

Remember it is on SATURDAY  at the TWS field. I have had a couple of people
ask me about Sunday so I thought another message was in order.

Also, remember to bring water as the water at the clubhouse is turned off
for the winter.

Art Slagle tells me the temps will be around 40 so if the wind is less than
gale force, it is starting to look good.

Come and have a coffee and donut on us even if you don't fly, the social
gathering is nice.

Jack Iafret
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Keeper of the Nostalgia Rules

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Re: [RCSE] Discus launching, what to look for?

2002-02-13 Thread Andy Frank

From: Tracy Brown [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [RCSE] Discus launching, what to look for?
Date: Wed, 13 Feb 2002 09:31:10 -0600

Andy:

The kits are expensive due to the time it takes to manufacture them. 
Materials costs also play a factor especially when they use Kevlar and 
carbon weave materials in them.

The Dream Catcher #5 ARF has a Kevlar-Carbon fiber wing.

It only sells for $125.00 or so.

Sorry, it just does not make sense to me, why others costs $220.00 - over 
$350.00.

I still have not had my first question answered.

What do I need to look for?

I am not talking about, well XX person flies this model, that happened to be 
given to them by the manufacture to fly.

I am not talking about a mag. review, I understand that the only requirement 
for getting a review, is do you run ads in that mag. then we will run a 
review of your products.

Yes, I hear the marketing talking, trying to convenience me that a $350.00 
model is worth that much money.

Help is what I'm looking for, not some marketing hype, just facts, please.

Things that will help me understand, what I'm doing.

If I get time this week end, I'll borrow a Laser Range finder and see if I 
can come up with a launch height.

Andy

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Re: [RCSE] TD contest thoughts.

2002-02-13 Thread tony estep

 I can assure you  there is no way that that poly can compete! 

You need a Dark Star.
http://www.mvsaclub.com/articles/dark_star2.htm

 It cannot be launched anywhere near the height of
 the composites (not strong enough!) 

The Dark Star and numerous other poly ships can be zoomed as hard as
any unlimited plane

 and has nowhere near the legs to search out the thermals 

same answer. The number of dihedral breaks or control surfaces has
nothing to do with the strength of the wings or the plane's
penetration.





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RE: [RCSE] ZAGI 400X expletive deleted!!!!

2002-02-13 Thread Brian Jarchow

Sorry for the off topic post, but would the list admins be willing  able to
filter profanity for those of us who do not wish to read it? I know we can't
filter subjects, but I do know I am not the only person on the list who does
not like profanity.

Brian

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Re: [RCSE] DLG finger pegs

2002-02-13 Thread Lincoln Ross

I believe the 40 lbs, but we're only talking a beam that is cantilevered
about .7 or so, aren't we? I'd figure the stress if I had my
Machinery's Handbook handy or if I had worked with beam theory more
recently. I just picked up a winch battery with two popsicle sticks
under the handle and two fingers on each one (i.e. as you would hold a
dlg). Seems like just a little thicker and it would do the job, and be
very easy to streamline. Or is that too heavy? I've got to think it
would be a fraction of a gram, or so my guesstimate calculations say
(.06 X .25 X 1.5, 45lb/ft^3, .27g)

Joe  Jan Wurts wrote:
 
 By my calcs (and sore fingers to testify), a good launch
 will get about 40 lbs or more of pull on the tip.  It is really
 hard to get wood to take this amount of loading.
 
 As to the lower drag solution of the streamlined shapes,
 this is attractive, excepting that it is hard to do, and still
 keep light.  Low yaw inertia is very important in a DLG,
 and the streamlined peg adds weight.
 
 Joe
 - Original Message -
 From: Lincoln Ross [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Sent: Wednesday, February 13, 2002 11:12 AM
 Subject: Re: [RCSE] DLG finger pegs
 
 
  I don't understand why everyone makes these things so strong! It only
  has to be stronger than your fingers, doesn't it? Why not wood (say,
  maple, spruce, bamboo)? And why not carved in a nice, low drag shape
  instead of the circular cross section which is about as draggy as you
  can get?
 
  I haven't made my dlg yet, tho.
  John Erickson wrote:
   Rick,
  snip For the peg itself solid carbon
   rod, about 3/16 D. seems to be popular. I've seen some that are a more
   aerodynamic shape and if you are trying to squeeze everything out of the
   plane, that is worth investigating.  I did one where I crushed a 3/8 D.
   aluminum tube in a vise and then put a rod on the inside for support,
 and
   filled the void with microballoons.  Nice shape, but too heavy.  You
 really
   don't want any weight out at the tips.
  
   You probably could also take something like the old 1/2 carbon wing
 joiner
   that you broke when you switched from Mode 2 to Mode 1 during a flight
 (that
   wasn't you?  Oh yeah, that was me with my Edge...) and sand away till
 you
   get a foiled peg.  Pretty messy job.  Carbon fiber dust has to be right
 up
   there with asbestos as far as health quality goes.
  
   Maybe laminating some strips of pre-preg might work, too.  I'm sure
 there
   are many ideas (and attempts) at a foiled peg.
  
   JE
   --
   Erickson Architects
   John R. Erickson, AIA
 
  --
  Lincoln Ross
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-- 
Lincoln Ross
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[RCSE] Re: For sale, Infinity 660 transmitter and receivers - 50 mHz

2002-02-13 Thread James Porter Jr

Airtronics equipment for sale

Infinity 660 transmitter in excellent condition with two battery packs and
transmitter module on channel 02 (50 mHz) with two #92698 PCM six channel
receivers on the same frequency.

Complete package $300 postpaid CONUS

Jim Porter
Bettendorf, Iowa  USA
 soon to be Dilsberg Germany

The airplane stays up because it doesn't have the time to fall.
 Orville Wright


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[RCSE] Cirrus 2 Meter ARF

2002-02-13 Thread Perry

Has anyone flown or reviewed this airplane from Hobby People/Global ??

They don't bother to say what airfoil it is.

I looked through the manual and she looks pretty good.

Comments?

Regards,Perry
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[RCSE] test post

2002-02-13 Thread Robert Marlan



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RE: [RCSE] DLG finger pegs

2002-02-13 Thread Lincoln Ross

Here's an idea:
if you can use a disposable material for your peg, just put a loose hole
in the tip and let the peg drop away after launch. I suppose this could
be annoying in contests with lots of people nearby, tho.
brent wrote:
 
 and i guess, why a peg?  i've seen several german sites, and they use
 indentations, or even holes has anyone here experimented with that?  
 
 the nicer ones are about dime sized, maybe a quarter to a half inch deep
 i think that would be a nice alternative.
 
 just wanted to stir things up, 
 brent

-- 
Lincoln Ross
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[RCSE] Full House Setup for Newbie..

2002-02-13 Thread Robert Marlan




 Just getting into my first fullhouse glider.  I  would desire info on
 building (how to glue in those long pushrods..), servo installation on
 obechi and composite ships,  and how to set up flaps ,ailerons etc.
 I know how to program the radio, but how to use the surfaces, coupling and
 CROW during setup and flight

 Is there any book or websites or other sources of info???

 Thanks in advance!

 Robert
 [EMAIL PROTECTED]


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Re: [RCSE] Full House Setup for Newbie..

2002-02-13 Thread Jon Stone

Robert,

From: Robert Marlan [EMAIL PROTECTED]

 Just getting into my first fullhouse glider.  I  would desire info on
 building (how to glue in those long pushrods..), servo installation on
 obechi and composite ships,  and how to set up flaps ,ailerons etc.
 I know how to program the radio, but how to use the surfaces, coupling and
 CROW during setup and flight

 Is there any book or websites or other sources of info???

Congratulations on your purchase.

A few (hopefully) useful answers:

First things first.  Get an expert in your local area to show and explain.
You will get a lot more mileage out of a local then through email.  You
might even make a new friend.


Servo installation in wings:

- put some kind of floor in the servo well, or use a servo can.
- many glue the servos into the wing.
- method 1:  mix 5 minute epoxy  micro-balloons.  Put a small dot in the
center of the servo  mash it in.
- method 2: wrap the servo with a piece of masking tape, that you can cut
off, if you need to get the servo out.
- method 3: wrap the servo with a strip of heat shrink tubing, for same
purpose.
- method 4:  cut the hole in the wing 'exactly' the same as the shape of the
servo.  Use shims of foam to ensure a snug fit.  Put a tape servo cover over
it and call it done.
- better have your wiring done before gluing.
- most radios expect the servos on opposite wings to be facing opposite
directions.  In other words, both servo arms should be facing the fuse (or
both facing the tips).  Check and re-check your installation before you
start gluing.
- aileron servo neutral is with the arm straight down.
- I prefer my flap servo neutral about 10-15 degrees towards the back of the
plane.  At full flap deflection, there is almost no load on the gear train.
(the load is on the bearing).
- plan on metal geared servos for the flaps, unless you're proficient at
pulling the flaps up the moment you land.   Good way to strip gears.


Pushrods:

- make sure they are straight as they snake through the fuse
- consider placing a piece of stiff music wire inside the pushrod tube,
while you are gluing.  It will help keep the tube straight.  Obviously, take
it out  replace with a real pushrod when done.
- method 1.  Put a band masking tape every 4 to 5 along the outer tube.
Hang the tube where you want it inside the fuse.  Drizzle CA down the tube
and it will stick where the tape is.  Do this outside or in the garage as
some CA will drip to the floor.
- method 2.  My choice.  Use Goop (any kind) to stick the tube to the
sidewall.  Put several blobs on the tube.  Carefully insert, and line up the
tube where you want it.  Set fuse on it's side  let dry for 24 hours.
- method 3.  Use any glue you like (goop suggested), but apply with a long
dowel.  A mess, and a pain, but it can be done.
- it's likely your pushrod will stick out free near the servos.  Consider
supporting the pushrods with a scrap of balsa, either to the fuse or the
servo tray.  You don't want any room for the pushrod to move from
side-to-side.  Leave 1-2 of the end free, though.

General plane instructions:

- get a set of instructions for a Sapphire.  About the best I've seen.  This
plane is obechi, so lots of methods on that, too.

Crow:

The basics of crow is you want the flaps 80-90 degrees down, and the
ailerons somewhat up.  How much varies by pilot's taste.  Probably 10-20
degrees.  You also want a fair bit of down elevator compensation.  Try it
out at high altitude, and a normal thermalling speed (not high speed).  The
plane should not pitch up or down when you pull the flap stick.  Personally,
I prefer a slight amount of down.You will probably want negative aileron
differential in this mode, as the ailerons physically may not be able to go
up any more.  This differential only applies in landing mode.  The
Airtronics radios have special differential settings just for landing, so
this is almost automatic.

Also be aware when landing with crow enabled, you are in a high-drag, high
lift configuration.  If you suddenly retract the flaps, the plane will
probably fall out of the air.  This is what you want when you are 12 high
and right over the landing spot.  Probably not what you want at other times.

Radio setup:

Don Edberg had a yellow book on programming computer radios.  It has a
strong glider bias, and is a great resource, if you can find one.  Out of
print.  Was about $15.  His web site is  http://www.flash.net/~dynamic3/
Looks Don's new books (which focus entirely on Futaba radios) have this info
too.  The website lists at least one chapter only on gliders.

If you can't get that, then try the Airtronics Vision manual (only 8 pages).
It's a concise and solid reference that gives a good explanation.

Both of these explain what you want the surfaces to do, when, and why.  I
think the what, when, and why is the info you're after.  Since you said you
know how to program your radio.  There is just too much info on glider setup
to explain in an email.


RE: [RCSE] Full House Setup for Newbie..

2002-02-13 Thread Nicholas Wisdom

I have to say the best tip I was ever given when setting up my first
full house was this.  

Masking tape your servos in place in the wing and finish all of your
programming.  Make sure all surfaces give you the required amount of
travel, and that your flaps come close to 90 degrees etc, and that they
track down together at the same rate etc.  Check, check, and recheck all
of this before they are glued in!  It will save some serious headaches.

Also, I don’t know Jon Stone personally but his post was a great one.
Lots of good info in there so read it a couple of times!

Nick Wisdom
Orlando, FL

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[RCSE] kudos to Jon Stone

2002-02-13 Thread Martin Cleary



I am wrapping up a full house scratch built and 
much of what you said is very helpful for me (and many others, I'm sure). 


Good-on-ya
Martin


Re: [RCSE] Comments on Victory SE or C.

2002-02-13 Thread Morris McKenna

A good, reliable, durable and inexpensive bagged sailplane.

dhaskins2 wrote:

  I would like any comments on the Victory SE or C from Northeast
 Sailplanes.

  Thanks

  Dave H.

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Re: [RCSE] Full House Setup for Newbie..

2002-02-13 Thread Jon Stone

One more thought on servo installation in the wings.

Make sure that matching pairs of flap servos (ailerons also) are installed
in exactly the same way.   That means that both servos have the same length
arms, and both point to the exact same angle when at neutral.  This will
save you a lot of headaches later.

Jon


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Re: [RCSE] Full House Setup for Newbie..

2002-02-13 Thread Wwing

In a message dated 02/13/2002 10:01:06 PM Central Standard Time, 
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

 ust getting into my first fullhouse glider.  I  would desire info on
  building (how to glue in those long pushrods..), servo installation on
  obechi and composite ships,  and how to set up flaps ,ailerons etc.
  I know how to program the radio, but how to use the surfaces, coupling and
  CROW during setup and flight
  
  Is there any book or websites or other sources of info???
  
  Thanks in advance!
  
  Robert
  [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  

Here's a link you can get lost in, compiled by our intrepid list boss:

http://dmoz.org/Recreation/Aviation/Model_Aviation/Radio_Controlled/Soaring/

Have fun!
Bill Wingstedt
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RE: [RCSE] ZAGI 400X expletive deleted!!!!

2002-02-13 Thread Steve Meyer

Get Eudora. You can filter messages by whatever words you like.

It even uses logic to figure out which messages are Hot and rates them by 
chillis.



At 08:12 PM 2/13/2002 -0800, Brian Jarchow wrote:
Sorry for the off topic post, but would the list admins be willing  able to
filter profanity for those of us who do not wish to read it? I know we can't
filter subjects, but I do know I am not the only person on the list who does
not like profanity.

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[RCSE] for sale.....

2002-02-13 Thread luis gonzalez

hi guys.
i have the following stuff for sale.
i will prefer paypal if not money orders.

fma fortress fm reciever like new used on hlg about 20 flights  channel
14 50 shipped

jeti 350 like new..50 shipped

futaba skysport buddybox  tx  with trainer cord48 shipped.

or all for 125 shipped.
first come first serve.
thanks for the badwidth.

luis

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