I bought two of these supplies and both failed with the same fault. One
of the 5v regs had blown, so the 5v output was still present with no
load but collapsed when connected to the SB3, so your proposed solution
share the load between the regs probably won't work.
See this thread for my
fun... this is the next generation endless argument of lossy vs.
lossless
--
GuyDebord
Kharma CRM 3.2 - v/d Hul Inspiration. PRE: Lyngdorf DPA-1 - Kharma
Grand Reference XLR's - AMP: Halcro MC20. ANALOGUE: Clearaudio Ambient
CMB, Satisfy Carbon Lyra Helikon SL, ASR Basis Exclusive phono pre
Hi!
Yes good clean power, is in my opinion where to start.
In my setup i have 2 regular isolation transformers 1:1 wiring.
One Feeding the Analog equipment, and one for the digital stuff.
Some Ferrit Magnets / Cores to reduce HF.
(Only on the Main power cords) I have removed the Ferrit on the
Thanks for that!
With two regulators in parallel, one is carrying most of the load
current, but this won't happen if the series resistors are added I
think.
The issue I'm facing is that the single 2A 7805 is shutting down
thermally after a few minutes.
I was just looking at the PCB thinking it
omega wrote:
I Have tried with a true ONLine UPS from APC APC SMART-UPS RT
I thought that could be a shepher solution than PS audio Powerplant
and vs Products.
But the APC SMART-UPS RT in my system only make things worse.
Sounded noisy and added harmonics to the mains frequency.
I wonder if
gg ... :-)
--
PBA
Transporter - Dual Connect - Thorhauge Audio Tube I. 270 - Dual Connect
- modded Magnepan
PBA's Profile: http://forums.slimdevices.com/member.php?userid=15836
View this thread:
cdmackay;404725 Wrote:
omega wrote:
I Have tried with a true ONLine UPS from APC APC SMART-UPS RT
I thought that could be a shepher solution than PS audio
Powerplant
and vs Products.
But the APC SMART-UPS RT in my system only make things worse.
Sounded noisy and added harmonics to
cdmackay;404725 Wrote:
I wonder if that model supplies power normally from the battery, or
whether the battery is only there for backup?
It seems to me that a simple battery really ought to be the cleanest
source of power, and the cheapest. Has anyone tried this, for low-power
Kuro wrote:
cdmackay;404725 Wrote:
I wonder if that model supplies power normally from the battery, or
whether the battery is only there for backup?
It seems to me that a simple battery really ought to be the cleanest
source of power, and the cheapest. Has anyone tried this, for low-power
Kuro;404656 Wrote:
The inductor core does not work well. It is far from the performance of
the PPP. If PPP scores 100, your power filter probably scores a 5.
Just my $0.02
Maybe I should ask the question more specifically. By score 100 vs 5 do
you mean:
1. The power filter filters all but
The cover art comes from the server software, SqueezeCenter. Since the
Controller communicates with SqueezeCenter, it will get cover art.
The Controller doesn't control the Transporter directly, it directs
SqueezeCenter to control the Transporter.
--
Mark Lanctot
Current: SB2, Transporter,
But the controller connects through the Transporter? I don't have any
other Wifi connection...
--
cybervision_
cybervision_'s Profile: http://forums.slimdevices.com/member.php?userid=13023
View this thread:
cybervision_;404819 Wrote:
But the controller connects through the Transporter? I don't have any
other Wifi connection...
No, you need a wireless network for the Controller to work. You can
use a Squeezebox Receiver, it will act as a limited AP for the
controller. But since the Transporter
Great! Glad it's working. You can add yourself to the cc list for that
bug if you want to be notified of progress.
--
seanadams
seanadams's Profile: http://forums.slimdevices.com/member.php?userid=3
View this thread:
technobear;404578 Wrote:
That was it! Turned off inverse polarity, pulled the mains plug out to
reboot, started up again and it now plays the track fine. Well, when I
say fine you can still hear that the bass transients are well
overloaded, but no more nasty crackles.
Guess I'll just have
darrenyeats;404783 Wrote:
Maybe I should ask the question more specifically. By score 100 vs 5 do
you mean:
1. The power filter filters all but 10% of the noise, but a power
generator filters all but 0.5% (20 times better)?
or
2. The power filter filters only 5% of the noise and the power
cdmackay;404778 Wrote:
Kuro wrote:
cdmackay;404725 Wrote:
I wonder if that model supplies power normally from the battery, or
whether the battery is only there for backup?
It seems to me that a simple battery really ought to be the
cleanest
source of power, and the cheapest. Has
Pale Blue Ego;276121 Wrote:
Not logical. For that to be true we'd have to believe that CDs could
have sounded fantastic all along, but they purposely kept the sound
quality inferior until SACD came out, then used all the superior
mastering techniques on the SACD layers.
LOL. Would you
Glenn2;404347 Wrote:
b) There is a large heatsink running around the perimeter of the PCB,
which has a regulator on each side. They are both L7805CV (ST brand).
They are 1.5A parts but both are connected directly in parallel, with
their outputs shorted together. This configuration is
thanks for the link, Kuro.
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misterburns;371870 Wrote:
Thanks for the reply.
I must admit that my knowledge in amps etc. is not as good as I would
wish for.
I have tried to find out about the Lyngdorf's:
- input sensitivity (less than 1.5V (less than 1V even better)
You'd be much better off to get the
Ok, so I but I want to connect the Transporter to the NAS-drive running
SC via ethernet because I have heard that is quite a bit more stable.
How can I hook this up?
- Transporter
- Duet remote
- Nas-drive?
For NAS-duty I am considering the Netgear ReadyNAS 500 GB.
--
cybervision_
Just get a wireless router. They usually have 4 wired LAN ports as
well. So use the LAN ports to get Ethernet to the NAS and the
Transporter, use the WAN port to connect to the Internet and use the
other LAN ports to connect computers, etc.
Then the wireless portion of the router will serve
Mark Lanctot;404872 Wrote:
Just get a wireless router. They usually have 4 wired LAN ports as
well. So use the LAN ports to get Ethernet to the NAS and the
Transporter, use the WAN port to connect to the Internet and use the
other LAN ports to connect computers, etc.
Then the wireless
Is Linksys WRT54G2 a good choice? GL - G2 at the end?
--
cybervision_
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View this thread: http://forums.slimdevices.com/showthread.php?t=61018
cybervision_ wrote:
Is Linksys WRT54G2 a good choice? GL - G2 at the end?
The WRT54GL (its an ell) is a wonderful choice. I have one, have bought
several more for work.
--
Pat Farrell
http://www.pfarrell.com/
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cybervision_;404879 Wrote:
I see, are there any brands that work better/worse than others?
Many here, including myself, have had good success with the Linksys
WRT54GL. Note the L.
The bandwidth is more than enough no matter what technology I take it
when the only job 99% of the time will
Found it. It costs around 80$ over in Europe but thats not too bad, the
G2 version costs 45$. The router I get internet through lies in the
room directly beneath the setup, and my router will sit in the rack -
10 inches from the transporter and 8 feet from sweetspot so I don't
think range will be
I am in the process of setting up my stuff and I have a Transporter as
my source and pre and I need an amp in between.
My speakers are Gallo 3.1s with subamplifier (for those who know the
model) and I also have 2 Gallo TR-1 subs to give even more depth and
output.
I will be using the
I've just looked at the stereophile article regarding power supplies
and there is a sentence In short, AC provides the raw material used by
audio components to do their job.
What a load of old bollocks. It seems to read to me that the author is
suggesting that AC is required to power an
Tragic:
http://radar.oreilly.com/2009/03/the-sizzling-sound-of-music.html
--
snoogly
snoogly's Profile: http://forums.slimdevices.com/member.php?userid=9155
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misterburns;371769 Wrote:
Very soon my Logitech Transporter will arrive, and I am not sure which
amplifier would be the best for this...
I often see the combination of the Logitech Transporter and Lyngdorf
SDA2175 (power amp).
What do you guys recommend?
For my money and in my
I would recomend anything but a switched amp conventional amps still
provides less distortion less noise and lower output impedance and
better damping factor. I think Bryston puplished a white paper on that
regarding the hype with class-D amps
Switched, class D amps wins hands down when it comes
Glad someone has brought up the subject of attenuators. I am getting a
pooping sound when using my SB into a Behringer SRC2496 and the output
from the Behringer could be way too high and is possibly overloading my
amplifier (Pioneer A9) thus causing popping sounds. If I use my aged
Cambridge A60
No AC is what comes into your home not DC.
It is the noise and variable voltage and instability of the AC that can
affect the conversion of AC to DC, also certain household items can send
spikes and other noise onto the AC ring ie refrigerators kicking in.
obviously the more you spend on HiFI
c3p0 wrote:
It is the noise and variable voltage and instability of the AC that can
affect the conversion of AC to DC, also certain household items can send
spikes and other noise onto the AC ring ie refrigerators kicking in.
The first thing any power amp does is rectify the AC to DC and put
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