I used the same stuff as my Max Prop. Lubriplate 130-AA. It was
convenient. I haven't had any problems.
Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
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On Jul 15, 2013 2:14 PM, "Curtis" wrote:
> What grease should be used??
>
>
>
> On Sun, Jul 14, 2013 at 1
Thank you so much.
After much advice I went back for further inspection and found a grease nipple
on the through hull bearing joint. I have ordered marine grease and will
complete job Thursday.
In the cooler weather today and the other lubrication perfromed there was a
markable differen
Rick
Is worth a lot more than $500 if all parts in place and in like new
condition. I sold a 10 year old Harken 00 for $750 last year and the
furler for a 38 ft masthead boat is considerably more furler than that.
Do your friend a favour and sell it for $1000 since it costs a lot more
than that
I don't even really need it and I am pretty tempted at $400.
Joe Della Barba
-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Hoyt, Mike
Sent: Tuesday, July 16, 2013 8:19 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Harken furler for sale cheap
You should be. A new Harken Unit 1 Mk IV sells for over $2300.
Dennis C.
>
> From: "Della Barba, Joe"
>To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com"
>Sent: Tuesday, July 16, 2013 8:45 AM
>Subject: Re: Stus-List Harken furler for sale cheap
>
>
>I don't even really need it a
Mark:
'Nemesis' is at the Royal Nova Scotia Yacht Squadron. I don't know the
current owner but I do know the owner that originally brought the boat
to Halifax. If you get really interested in this boat I can provide his
name. He is a very knowledgeable sailorhe moved up to a much large
6'2" draft is no problem at all.the shoals are the problems.just pay
attention to your charts here in St Margaret's and in Mahone Bay and really
all along our coastline and you will be fine, my charts are quite accurate
yet I have gone aground.those older C&C's can withstand quite a hard
impact.har
O.K I know, I know.
I was so proud to get the East Coast Lady for a song... Now It looks
like she needs a new power plant. If the compression test today shows
her to have low compression I will swap the engine out my self.
I have one question?
can I swap the 2GM-13 3400 rpm engine "RAW water coole
Unless the block or head is bad you would probably be better to fix the old
one. Just my 2 cents.
Josh Muckley
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On Jul 16, 2013 10:46 AM, "Curtis" wrote:
> O.K I know, I know.
> I was so proud to get the East Coast Lady for a song... Now
The head on Indigo is a Wilcox-Crittenden HeadMate - which is now
"supported" by Thetford.
The head has developed an annoying leak around the "T" handle (piston rod)
which is clearly clean water as it only leaks when pumping water into the
head, never when pumping dry.
>From the diagrams on
Why? if it shows low compression?
Its a raw water cooled 31 year old engine that has never had an hour
meter and spent its whole life in salt water.
I know the used engine is at least 10 years newer and fresh water water cooled.
On 7/16/13, Josh Muckley wrote:
> Unless the block or head is bad yo
I'd replace the entire head with a new household sized unit. You'll be more
comfortable and the new head will be more reliable and trouble free
RIch Knowles
Indigo. LF38
Halifax NS
On 2013-07-16, at 12:19, "Indigo" wrote:
> The head on Indigo is a Wilcox-Crittenden HeadMate – which is now “s
The handle on my W/C head broke the other day and Thetford told me I had to
buy the whole $91 repair kit to get the one little plastic piece. My
solution is to go to the local machine shop and get them to make one up for
me out of stainless: about $20.
To your problem of the packing and washer, bot
Same thing happened to me. And I replaced with a new version of the same engine
(Volvo) and it had many differences I had not anticipated. Lot of busy work I
hadn't planned on; exhaust and controls on opposite sides, bigger mounts etc.
Being raw water cooled may prevent a rebuild if there is a l
Jonathan,
My supplier's catalog shows the parts available as packing 015222 and packing
nut 015164 for $9.95 and $4.65 respectively. I show the entire pump assembly
(#015867) at $197.85 and the repair kit at $81.15. Just because my supplier
shows them as "stocked parts" doesn't mean they can
West Marine's catalog shows the parts as well. Page 505 of the catalog. Packing
Nut for 4.99. Kit for 79.99.
But. one lister said that using some Head Lube (p 507) solved his washer
leaking problem. This was posted in the last couple of weeks.
I have similar problems. My Head mate won't br
Curtis,
About five years ago I rebuilt a 2QM from the ground up for a friend. It
was raw water cooled. Absolutely no corrosion.
I have a 3QM30 raw water cooled that was in salt water for 30 years and
although I have not had the head or pan off I have had about everything else
apart on it.
Hi All,
I have an ultrafurl 500, no doubt many C&Cs of this vintage have the same.
I am having some trouble with it (sticking) and Heider from Ultrafurl (I
believe he's the guy that designed these things) sent along the
installation instructions as a guide on how to disassemble for a look.
Well, i
Allan,
Thanks, this is fascinating to me. This information combined with the recent
thread on hull numbers has helped me understand where our boat fits in the
bigger picture of 30-2's. Our hull number is ZCC30045I788, which I believe
indicates we are hull 45 out of the 175 built. We do have
Wow, thanks all .. my mail client wasn't updating so I didn't even think
that my original post made it to the list! I just started another thread,
sorry about that.
Halyard tension may be it, I put a new headsail on this season and I like a
nice taught luff on my headsail ... hmmm.
It's not halya
Blair,
Now you are giving me some new information. Can you describe where the fitting
is? I did not see it on my initial inspection.
Jim
C&C 30-2 "Firewater"
Milwaukee, WI
Sent from my iPad
On Jul 16, 2013, at 7:17 AM, "Blair Clark" wrote:
> Thank you so much.
>
> After much advice I wen
Sorry, something was up with my mail client and I didn't see any of the
replies to my other thread, in fact it appeared as though the other thread
didn't make it to the list at all! I'm going to play with the halyard
tension first and foremost, if that doesn't resolve this then I'll be back
to talk
Ease your backstay, of course, but don't forget to ease your mainsheet,
too. Just did the same thing on my boat to remove the drum for racing, and
it was surprisingly easy. We were VERY careful to not drop any bits over
the side!
Andy
C&C 40
Peregrine
On Tue, Jul 16, 2013 at 1:26 PM, Stevan Plavs
Stevan,
Saw your reply about trying halyard tension. If you do have to unpin the
furler, here's some info.
I've got a rig blocked right now while we make a new forestay and install a new
furler.. Keel step masts don't need a tremendous amount of support. No need
to decrease tension on the
I am planning to stop in Pt Judith on my way from Stonington to Cuttyhunk
and planning to anchor. I have heard that holding in Pt Judith is not great.
Could any listers with recent experience of Pt Judith offer me any practical
advice? Is it worth going up the channel to the anchorage north of Pla
I have stopped in Pt Judith many times. I have weathered nights in 35-40
knot winds in the harbor of refuge. My anchor rode was taut as a bow
string, but I've never had holding issues there. It can be a pretty wild
night if the wind is up, but at least the waves are mitigated pretty
well. I usu
So did the boat visit this morning.
We had a different broker from the same company that came out to
show us around the boat. The listing broker said
She needs an interior refresh but super deal
The broker that met us at the boat was
Allen,
Septima is number 167 and she was commissioned in 1990. I never saw an XL
model, but Septima was a "30+" with the great wood interior and standard two
spreader rig. She came with a Universal 3 cylinder 18 hp diesel and standard
North Sails. Originally sold by Sailboats Northeast in Ma
"I like a nice tight luff"Luff tension is used to position the max draft in the correct location. Some where a round 35% to 40% on a foresail. Halyard tension in adjusted for wind strength continuously.
Hi,
I have battled the same problem of water not coming in through the intake.
This tends to happen when the head has not been used for some time. The
problem turns out to be a stuck inlet flap valve. This flap is just behind the
6 screw plastic water inlet housing cover. Most times, I can
Thanks Paul. I am getting water in - but some of it is going to the wrong
places! A friend of mine suggested using the West Marine Head Lube and
letting it sit in the pump for a while. I also loosened the piston rod
packing nut and carefully poured some of the oil down the piston rod.
Definitely m
I"m guessing that Harken furler wouldn't be able to be converted to fit a 30,
correct???
Ron
Wild Cheri
STL
From: Dennis C.
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com"
Sent: Tuesday, July 16, 2013 8:57 AM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Harken furler for sale cheap
You should be
Saw this on Craigslist:
http://annapolis.craigslist.org/boa/3938588062.html
Joel
301 541 8551
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CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Peggy, the head mistress, recommends Super Lube grease. I've been using it and
like it. Unfortunately, to get the full benefit you have to pull the pump
assembly apart and manually apply it to to plunger, shaft, etc. Small price to
pay for several months of quiet operation.
Next time I might
Ron,
I have that exact unit on my 30-2, so it would fit. I think you would just
need to use the right number of luff sections and cut the last one to length.
Jim
Sent from my iPhone
On Jul 16, 2013, at 3:22 PM, "Ronald B. Frerker" wrote:
> I"m guessing that Harken furler wouldn't be able to
I have the solution
Went to West today and bought the Head Lube from the catalog. 12 bucks. Put
about a quarter of the bottle in the head, pumped about a dozen - maybe 20
times - and the head started to work again, pumping water from outside and
acting normal. Put a few drops of the lube on
There's a 24 listed on the Chesapeake Bay Maritime Museum website. I delivered
it from the Annapolis area to St. Michaels a month or so ago. It needs a little
work, but the sails are OK and it has full spinnaker equipment. And a 4 hp four
stroke outboard. They are asking $3500. Make an offer or
I'm assuming the 32 is a keel stepped mast, as the 35-3 is. In which
case - don't stress about disconnecting the forestay. Absolutely use a
halyard in place of it, with lots of tension, but it will stay up. I
swapped out my forestay and furler with the mast up, no problems. I did
loosen the
I had read about using mineral oil as well, so I started using Baby oil and
then read that that was a no-no. We as sailors are always trying to find
the generic version of the marine grade that we know is ripping us off. I
have the Skipper, and noticed that the pump has been feeling like it is
g
You guys are awesome, thanks for all the replies!
Steve
Suhana, C&C 32
Toronto
On 2013-07-16, at 5:50 PM, Graham Collins wrote:
> I'm assuming the 32 is a keel stepped mast, as the 35-3 is. In which case -
> don't stress about disconnecting the forestay. Absolutely use a halyard in
> place o
It's more dependent on wire size and pin size than boat length. Need to verify
those dimensions. You'll also need a new forestay.
I suggest you verify the Mark version and download the installation
instructions.
Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
>
My guess is that a 30 uses a smaller diameter headstay than a 38 - but then
my C&C 25 uses a larger diameter wire for headstay and shrouds than a
friends Hunter 33, so your guess is as good as mine. If your wire is smaller
than the diameter for which the existing bearing strips are intended, you
sh
I sent you a picture and explanation from my work email...I hope it helps
please let me know.
Blair Clark 902-423-4651
From: firewa...@reinardy.us
Date: Tue, 16 Jul 2013 12:35:55 -0500
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
CC: cnc-list@cnc-list.com; strig...@eastlink.ca
Subject: Re: Stus-List Rudder po
Blair,
Picture received, thanks! I will check it out next time I am down at the boat
and let you know what I find.
Regards,
Jim
Sent from my iPad
On Jul 16, 2013, at 9:01 PM, "Blair Clark" wrote:
> I sent you a picture and explanation from my work email...I hope it helps
> please let me
I say out with the old and in with the new...
I have struggled on this decision way too long. Given, the age on this
boat. Given the fact the PO left sea water in the block with no anodes
for at least 4 years while is sat on the hook unattended, Given the
fact, I can find no record of maintenance o
I need to check my install again, but Edson refers to a stuffing box at the top
of the rudder tube. Is this standard on C&C's from that era?
ALEX GIANNELIA
CC 35-II (1974) WILL BE RENAMED
ON THE HARD SINCE NOV. 2006
Toronto Ontario
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Hi Curtis,
I say, "Good on you."
My reservation is your estimate on this
project... you should be able to snag an engine
like that on eBay for $1500 tops!... with a pedigree.
With a bit more careful procurement of exhaust
hose, valves, fuel hose, traps and such for
another boat token or so
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