I read that due to the angle of the engine oil level should be kept at the top
end of the range rather that any lower point on the dipstick. As a result I
probably overfilled it by about 1/2 quart.
Aside from the smoke today, it ran fine...sailed even better. Glorious Mayday
here in the Pacif
I tend to agree with Dennis.
The 9.9 Tohatsu on Bell weighs around 80 pounds. The dock is about 18” to 2’
above the transom. I put a safety line on the motor (in case I dropped it), sat
down on the edge of the dock, and just pulled the motor up off the mount and
slid it onto the dock. Not pr
Tom,
One thing you might try is to is to see what type of smoke you're
getting. Burning lubricating oil tends to be blue/white, which
indicates your might have excess oil splashed up from the crankcase to
the cylinder walls. Some splash is normal, that's the way the rings are
lubricated, b
My 25, a MK1 HIN 225, has been very dry for the 22 years I’ve owned her. So dry
I don’t have a bilge pump except the OEM hand pump in the cockpit sole, and I
dry out the bilge with a sponge every 6 months or so. Maybe I’m just lucky.
But on my boat there are small limber holes (maybe ½” diame
The way ours is set up is that the whole system pulls from one tank or the
other. There is a valve in the forward end of the port settee right by the
pump. I have a 3M filter on my galley sink that makes me comfortable drinking
the water, yes.
Jim
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun..
Only time will tell. If it starts using a lot of oil you know that there is
damage to the engine. I would check the oil each time you go out to see if it
is burning oil. If the oil level does not change you were just burning off the
excess oil. BTW, how much did you over fill on the oil?
Fra
Minor
I can't remember where I heard it but as I understand it mid to low is
better than full. I guess these (Yanmar 3GM/HM) engines are more likely
to carry over oil into the combustion as the oil level goes up.
Same thing happens when you overfill cars and my lawnmower. My lawnmower
runs fin
Do you still own yours? May I call you this coming week? I have a ton of
questions.
On May 1, 2016 8:07 PM, "Jim Reinardy via CnC-List"
wrote:
> Lorne,
>
>
>
> My 1988 30-2 has 2 tanks as you describe, one starboard under the settee
> and one under the V-berth. 78 gallons total sounds about ri
Sweet! Thanks for the confirmation. It's larger capacity was a selection
criteria. They are both suitable for drinking if clean right? I assume
just like all the RV campers I've owned I the past. I've never owned a
live aboard.
How do you use them in that are they connected or one for kitc
Lorne,
My 1988 30-2 has 2 tanks as you describe, one starboard under the settee and
one under the V-berth. 78 gallons total sounds about right. The holding tank
is aft, under the floor of the starboard lazerette next to the water heater.
Not sure if that is a standard or optional configur
Alera is my second C&C, but my first diesel. My prior 35MK 1 had an Atomic4.
I have been checking oil on my Yanmar about as often as I did on the A4, like
once a season. Last summer I learned the error of my ways. But I over
compensated for the low oil level and overfilled the engine.
Our en
Boats that weren't shipped to the Great Lakes frequently had the holding
tank plumbed as an extra water tank. Maybe?
Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C&C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC
On 1 May 2016 at 16:13, Lorne Serpa via CnC-List
wrote:
> The ad for my boat says water is 78 gallons. The spec sheet in the
Coolthanks Dennis...sounds like a plan.
Mark McMenamy
C&C 25 "Icicle"
Fort Pierce FL
On May 1, 2016, at 8:42 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Just put a tag line on the motor. Have a buddy stand on the main dock and man
the tag line. Use the halyard to lif
Just put a tag line on the motor. Have a buddy stand on the main dock and
man the tag line. Use the halyard to lift it up to the level of the main
dock. Buddy pulls it over the main dock and you lower it.
If there's a cleat on the main dock on the far side, wrap the tag line
around it for bette
Hi Dennis,
I do back the boat and dock it stern first. However, the dock behind the boat
is a good 3 feet higher than the transom and I think it'd be difficult to lift
it that high. There is a finger pier to starboard that is the same level as
the boat. I was thinking of raising the motor wit
The Admiral and I use a halyard to lift and/return Touche's early 80's
vintage Evinrude 7.5 from the starboard cockpit locker all the time. It's
pretty easy to maneuver it and put it on the transom of the dinghy which is
usually tied midships.
Should work for the transom. Once the load is on the
The books about those Cup races are all very interesting. Bertrand got his
Engineering degree at MIT, his thesis was on sail design. He knew Conners very
well and IIRC was a genoa trimmer in Conners crew, years prior. It's a small
club of sailors that make it to that level.
The Mechanic and th
It is probably one that was made by Offshore Spars. C&C used them pretty
frequently for their masts, booms and standing rigging.
Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD
On May 1, 2016 7:15 PM, "Lorne Serpa via CnC-List"
wrote:
> I'm reading a downloaded owner's manual and it refers
Just because we're talking leaks and bilges, I've found water along the aft
centreline and into the bilge, got the garden hose out and flooded the cockpit,
couldn't find a leak until I was groping around the underside of the pedestal.
But, that wasn't the leak spot. Turns out the caulk that was
The ad for my boat says water is 78 gallons. The spec sheet in the owner's
manual says "standard tank size" is 42.5 gallons. Is there a non-standard
or optional sizes or do you think the ad for the boat is wrong?
The line drawings in the manual also shows two tanks, two vents, two
fillers. One i
I'm reading a downloaded owner's manual and it refers to an off short
mast. Is there a standard mast and an off shore one? Mine has two
spreaders if it makes a difference.
___
This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like
Anchovy's boom reaches back to within four inches of the backstay. The mails'l
clew falls about two feet short of the end of the boom.
This winter, I actually raised her boom up a foot to create headroom in the
cockpit. Luckily the mAins'l luff was a foot short to begin with.
Rick Bushie
Anchov
Mine was the bilge too.
Ed
Sent from my iPhone
On May 1, 2016, at 5:04 PM, Sailnomad wrote:
> I have the same problem too, but it is in the bilge, and does not seem tn be
> related to heeling or sailing.
> Ahmet
> Winthrop, MA
> C&C25 "Tabasco"
>
> On Sun, May 1, 2016 at 3:27 PM, Mark McMenam
Great...thanks a lot for the replies.
Mark McMenamy
C&C 25 "Icicle"
Fort Pierce FL
On May 1, 2016, at 5:06 PM, Sailnomad via CnC-List
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
I have the same problem too, but it is in the bilge, and does not seem tn be
related to heeling or sailing.
Ahmet
Winthrop
Thanks John, Dennis, Michael, and Gary.
As soon as the #@()*%^ snow stops falling around here and I can uncover and
raise the sail again, I'll take actual measurements and compare to the
specified E dimension and report back.
My boat does have tiller steering, and boom-end sheeting to a trave
Hello everyone,
I'm getting ready to remove my outboard engine and take it to be worked on.
I'd like to leave it in the slip to avoid pullout costs as well ask to avoid
the risk of ruining my bottom paint should it need to be out more than 72
hours. Looking online I came up with a system wher
Take a look at the C&C Brochures on the web site. You will see two versions of
the early 30’s, one with end boom sheeting and the last one (d) with sheeting
forward of the wheel. Maybe the difference is whether you had a tiller or wheel.
Gary
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-li
Randy, it is pretty evident that your boom is longer than what the later boats
have. My boom extends only back as far as the wide spots in the coaming where
the winches are mounted. Yours is longer, probably because your boat has
end-boom sheeting. The later boats are sheeted about two feet in f
I have the same problem too, but it is in the bilge, and does not seem tn
be related to heeling or sailing.
Ahmet
Winthrop, MA
C&C25 "Tabasco"
On Sun, May 1, 2016 at 3:27 PM, Mark McMenamy via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> Hello everyone,
>
> I have water in each of the aft storage b
On Sun, May 1, 2016 at 3:44 PM, Mark McMenamy via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> Do you apply it up underneath the hull joint on the side of the boat?
No. Squirt it into the deck/toe rail joint. Start at the bow, place the
tip of the applicator bottle against the toe rail where it
Not to take away anything from Dennis' good advice, but I did exactly what
you're thinking of doing on my C&C 24 and it
solved my leaking problem. I actually probably went 1/2 turn (it was 5 years
ago, so not sure). As Dennis said, there might be other
reasons for your leak. And as for the butyl
Hi Dennis,
Thanks for the reply. I was worried about squeezing out the butyl tape as
well. I like your captain trolly idea. Do you apply it up underneath the hull
joint on the side of the boat?
Yes. It's really not an excessive leak. After a sail I may have 1/4 cup of
water to pull out.
Pretty much. You may have to go more than a 1/4 turn. But it will become
obvious how much once you get startedSome of mine the nuts had backed off
almost completely.
Sent from my Samsung device
Original message
From: Mark McMenamy via CnC-List
Date: 2016-05-01 4:27 P
Gary,
There were several renditions of Young America syndicates.
This is the yacht in question
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Young_America_(1994_yacht)
Connor won the defender series on Stars and Stripes but switched boats.
Chuck Gilchrest
Half Magic
1983 LF 35
Padanaram MA
Sent from my iPhone
Mark,
Leaks in the hull/deck joint are not uncommon. However, one must consider
whether the leak is from under the rub rail due to excessive heeling and
wave action or from water ingress through the deck/toe rail interface or
from the fasteners. Don't think that because it doesn't leak except wh
Conner's boat was not Young America (a syndicate out of New York Yacht
Club), but I believe it was Stars & stripes. The skmipper for Young
America was Ed Baird.
Gary
S/V Kaylarah
'90 C&C 37+
East Greenwich, RI, USA
~~~_/)~~
On Sun, May 1, 2016 at 12:37 PM, Chuck S via CnC-List wrote:
Hello everyone,
I have water in each of the aft storage bins under the settees. When it rains
no water accumulates, but when we go for a sail there will be a small amount of
water in each bin. After I dry it out, it stays dry until we go for a sail.
What I'm thinking is there is a leak in t
Painted by Roy Lichenstein. It's at the Storm King sculpture garden. Jerry.
J&J. 27-V.
Sent from my iPhone
> On May 1, 2016, at 3:02 PM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List
> wrote:
>
> Connor's Stars and Stripes was much slower than Young America and was given
> the OK to switch boats to YA
The 12 Metre with the canard--forward rudder--was USA 61 sailed by Tom
Blackhaller built for the 1987 Americas Cup. In Oz. She's still in Newport, at
New England boat works looking pretty sad. She was apparently an incredibly
difficult boat to steer but when they had it right, was very fast. The
Connor's Stars and Stripes was much slower than Young America and was given the
OK to switch boats to YA for the unsuccessful Cup Defense against Russell
Coutts on New Zeeland. Young America was famously painted with a Mermaid
along the top sides of the hull.
When I bought my original Half
Had to google it. It was a 4th Stars & Stripes (87). Had to google it but I
believe the boat you’re thinking of is Tom Blackaller’s Heart of America.
John
> On May 1, 2016, at 1:16 PM, John Pennie via CnC-List
> wrote:
>
> Actually I thought Young America was the boat with the forward rudde
The "E" measurement of the C&C 30-1 is 11.50'. That would be
from the stern of the mast along the boom to the edge of the main
leach when fully pulled back by the outhaul.
You may be an inch or two shorter, if so I doubt replacing the sail
just for that would make any sense.
It is hard to tell fr
Actually I thought Young America was the boat with the forward rudder. old age
is terrible as I can’t recall the skipper’s name - very famous and talented
fellow. Conners went with a 2nd Stars & Stripes.
John
> On May 1, 2016, at 12:37 PM, Chuck S via CnC-List
> wrote:
>
> Agree,
> John Be
I was at a presentation many years ago where they spoke about Liberty.
Apparently she had a list from day one which they had to compensate for with
ballast. Liberty ended up being a heavier boat with less sail area than
Australia II. Really not a fair fight. The fact it went to seven races i
Agree,
John Bertrand wrote a book that described the design process of the Australian
winged keel, the controversy around it, and he stated the keel was chosen to
get more sail area within the rule, and the hull was very fast and another keel
might have improved it further. That keel was weird,
Randy,
A PO raised Touche's boom about 6-8 inches. I've never considered that
enough to file for a change to my PHRF rating since my main sail extends
fully to the design E dimension.
However, your main sounds considerably smaller than design. Is that
reflected in your handicap rating? If not,
Wing keel vs fin.
I think, today's winged keels are the best, most practical, and efficient way
to shorten draft, but sailing performance will be better w a deep, narrow fin.
The wing gets the weight low, and maintains lift and righting moment. When the
boat is heeled, the wings work like an en
Your dates are right but I don’t believe there was any magic to the wing keel -
other than a way around the 12 meter measurement rule, I believe they referred
to them as winglets. The also used a film on top of the keel called “riblets”-
really.
John
> On May 1, 2016, at 11:35 AM, robert v
Looks short to me. Prior owner trying to “tame” the boat or perhaps make it
more balanced with a smaller headsail?
John
> On May 1, 2016, at 11:45 AM, Randy Stafford via CnC-List
> wrote:
>
> Listers-
>
> I posted a few pictures from my first race in my new-to-me 30-1 (hull #7)
> last Wedn
Listers-
I posted a few pictures from my first race in my new-to-me 30-1 (hull #7) last
Wednesday night at
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B-NqAxQ6JxFTeUlmcm1IX1c5ZHc
You can see the foot of my mainsail is considerably shorter than my boom. I'm
wondering if that's "normal" for 30-1s (or ot
The America's Cup left the NYYC in 1983 but I believe Dennis Conner won
it back in Perth, Aus, in 1987.
So, correct, it did not return to New York City but I am confident the
Americans won it back with an even different keel..I have a book
somewhere on the keel he used in Perth..it's l
Yes a dodger can be installed. Most marine canvas makers can fabricate a
dodger. The arches need to be engineered first. This is usually provided
by the canvas maker too. Then the canvas maker has a skeleton around
which to stretch the canvas. Whoever is making the arches will be able to
work
Hi Adam,
I think new valves and new hoses, clamps, etc, are in order. There are a few
choices.
I like Forespar Marelon thruhulls. No metal to corrode.
http://www.pbsboatstore.com/forespar-marelon-flanged-seacocks.htm?feed=Froogle&gclid=CIjrmMmWucwCFdBZhgodnJMGCw
Groco makes several bronze t
Sorry my bad. They are the marine sea cocks not the gate valve. I should
have said ball type valve.
Thanks for the reminder guys.
Sent from my iPhone
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This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like
what we do,
We also use the IMar Strataglass Polish. Works well on our Dodger.
Neil Schiller
1970 Redwing 35, Hull #7
(C&C 35, Mark I)
"Corsair"
On 5/1/2016 7:25 AM, Jake Brodersen via CnC-List wrote:
Dennis,
I use a product from Imar called Strataglass Polish. It is highly
recommended by Practical Sa
+1
I am amazed they lasted this long. We had to do this long ago to pass an
insurance survey - maybe around 1978 or so.
C&C was using their "cheap stuff from the hardware store for a boat on a
freshwater lake" thinking when they bought those valves. Same guy that used
steel plates for backing up th
If they are gate valves (like a faucet), get rid of them. The likely reason
they broke when you worked on them is they are old and corroded. Replace
them with proper marine parts for your safety.
Gary
30-1
St. Michaels MD
-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-li
I need some guidance.I was in the process of trying to dismantle the
original c and c valves on the cockpit drains as they were seized and have been
worried about potential flooding.Ion the process I have the valve half out.
Meaning the rubber gasket where you use the screw handle on the
210 is great stuff, requires little effort, spray on, polish with an old soft
tee shirt, crystal clear results. I use it on my other boat (the one without
the mast) JimGalaxy 34Brielle, NJ
Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE smartphone
Original message
From: Fred Hazzard
Lorne,
Where are you on the Chesapeake? Are you buying "SeaCure?
We typically sign our emails with vessel, model and location.
Allen Miles
S/V Septima 30-2
Hampton, VA
From: Lorne Serpa via CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, April 30, 2016 11:20 PM
To: Cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Lorne Serpa
Subject
Dennis,
I use a product from Imar called Strataglass Polish. It is highly recommended
by Practical Sailor. It works wonders on my 20 year old dodger windows.
Jake
Jake Brodersen
C&C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”
Hampton VA
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.
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