The difference is that we (humans) are bags of water and interfere with signals
(absorb them) in that spectrum (if you sit on the GPS, it would lose its
connection, as well). A canvas is a different matter (however, a really wet
canvas may attenuate it somewhat).
Marek
From: CnC-List On
Dave,
Interesting question for me, as just a few days ago I installed an ACR
and have been watching the voltage on the house bank, (alternator output
is to the starting bank only) by which I can see when the ACR combines.
It seems to be at about 13 to 13.2 volts, so it does sound like your
Update - a straightforward (though awkward) replacement of two rubber o-rings
eliminated the seepage. Will post pics to blog shortly. Thanks!
Dave
Sent from my iPhone
> On Jul 29, 2019, at 1:28 PM, Dave S wrote:
>
> Thanks Josh - I did try tightening and no joy. Did a little more
Can confirm that this repair stops the creaking - very spirited sailing last
few days!
Dave
Sent from my iPhone
> On Jul 27, 2019, at 7:38 AM, Dave S wrote:
>
> Blog updated per below. Hope it helps. Am way behind on updating this
> blog, lots of stuff to share
>
>
We have twice sucked fish into the intake, resulting in overheating. The
first one was stuck in the seacock, so removing the hose and pushing it
back out did the trick. The second one was surprisingly large and got all
the way to the strainer before getting stuck, so I had to cut the poor
thing in
Hi All,
I have a yanmar 2GMf20 with what I believe is the stock 55 amp alternator. I
noticed that my ACR was not combining batteries, which led me to research a bit
then measure the voltages on each bank, and then at the alternator “Batt”
terminal.
Irrespective or RPM or battery state,
Hi, Pete — how was the Trans Superior?
No, I haven’t spoken with Walkie yet (for the listers who don’t know him, he’s
the local diesel guru up here; his dad runs dieselenginetrader.com). What was
the result of your heat-exchanger testing?
Yes, I’ll have to purge the coolant; if I go raw-water
Fred- A couple years ago I had an issue with my HX. Once I had it off,
Walkie was able to pressure test it for me. That was in the middle of the
winter and he didn’t have much going on. I don’t know what other options you
have or if you’ve talked to him?
It sounds
Bob — with the Sendure after-market cooling system, you end up with two pumps:
the stock Yanmar pump on the engine which on my boat currently pumps coolant;
and the add-on pump that on my boat currently pumps lake water. I would
basically be bypassing the Sendure system with the add-on pump
Fred:
What is going to make the seawater circulate through the engine? Are you going
to the raw water pump to circulate seawater through the engine’s cavity? I
would think that the volume of seawater circulated would need to be greater
than the antifreeze/water mixture normally in the closed
Hi Rick,
We had many similar situations on a Desolation Sound cruise.
For us it started in Lund as we were leaving the
dock and lost water flow, so shutdown and coasted
back to the spot we just left.
After the third time I looked around more closely
and notice the little fishes liked to
Screwed up the topic again...What can I say..after a few weeks out my brain
melted.
Tom Buscaglia
S/V Alera
1990 C 37+/40
Vashon WA
P 206.463.9200
C 305.409.3660
___
Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and
every
- Original Message -
From: Frederick G Street via CnC-List
To: Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List
Cc: Frederick G Street
Sent: Friday, August 09, 2019 1:04 PM
Subject: Stus-List Landfall 38 3QM cooling system woes
Hello, all — I’ve got a 1979 LF38 with the original Yanmar 3QM
Hello, all — I’ve got a 1979 LF38 with the original Yanmar 3QM diesel, fitted
with a Sendure fresh-water exchanger kit (also original).
Over the last season or so, I’ve been noticing a slow but accelerating drop in
the coolant level. In the last month, it has sped up quite a lot. It’s not
That tops my stick that floated in
Sent from my iPhone
> On Aug 9, 2019, at 12:03 PM, Rick Rohwer via CnC-List
> wrote:
>
> David,
> We sucked an apparently curious sardine headfirst into the intake while
> visiting Desolation Sound a few years back. Discovered the issue much the
>
Hi David,
Long ago I read a tip from Don Casey suggesting all thruhulls should be fitted
with a tee instead of an ell for rodding out from inside the boat. I fitted my
engine intake with a tee and can easily close the seacock, remove a plug, screw
in a fitting with a short 18" length of hose
Sorry...shoulda fixed the header.
Tom Buscaglia
S/V Alera
1990 C 37+/40
Vashon WA
P 206.463.9200
C 305.409.3660
> On Aug 9, 2019, at 9:00 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
>
> Message: 4
> Date: Fri, 9 Aug 2019 08:41:01 -0700
> From: Tom Buscaglia
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>
David,
We sucked an apparently curious sardine headfirst into the intake while
visiting Desolation Sound a few years back. Discovered the issue much the
same way you did by noticing increased steam in the exhaust. Idled in to an
anchorage and starting at the pump worked backward to the intake,
Ben Gartside, a really great mechanic in Sidney BC, suggested replacing the 90
degree fitting on the intake with a threaded T. With the straight part up.
Then put a plug in the upper part that can be removed leaving a straight shot
through the intake that you can easily clean out with a dowel
Ahoy Odessa
Lynn and I are at Genoa Bay (we’re foodies and the restaurant here is
excellent) and should be arriving at Telegraph Harbor around 3 or so today.
Word is there will be 30 beautiful C this year. Should be fun.
I look forward to meeting you.
Tom Buscaglia
S/V Alera
1990 C 37+/40
Hi
How can I be taken off the CnC list?
Thank you!
Camille
___
Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and
every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal
to send contribution --
Pete, do you have any photos of your setup that you can share? Thanks
Richard
s/v Bushmakrk4: 1985 C 37 CB: Ohio River, Mile 584.4
Richard N. Bush Offices
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462
502-584-7255
-Original Message-
From: pete.shelquist---
FWIW – I tack right to the casting. I don’t take a rating hit being more than
12” past the forestay and I didn’t have to buy a bigger spin to fit the
configuration. However, it is pretty tight to do inside gybes. Again, I’m
short handed and doing distance stuff, so a little slower outside
I mentioned reliability, not speed. Both the sock and furler have their issues
and get hung up once in a while. As Bruno mentioned, they are also slower for
the transitions than traditional drops/hoists.
Speed in changing sails isn’t as big of an issue since I do more distance
races. I
I agree. I’ve noticed that if someone sits in the way back of the cockpit of
my boat near the Sirius antenna, this will interfere with the signal. Whether
a bimini will cause the same issue will depend on the nature of the overhead
obstruction (pole or cloth), I suppose. It should be
Luke, i will take pictures and come back to you.
Bruno.
Envoyé de mon iPad
Le 9 août 2019 à 10:00, Luke Wolbrink
mailto:luke.wolbr...@gmail.com>> a écrit :
I guess the only other question is how do you arrange the sprit? The forestay
is almost a foot back from the pointy end where there is a
I agree with Josh that a tee in the line allows for applying water pressure and
blowing out the line. A very effective method of cleaning things out, by the
way, as we had a similar approach on our 27 MKIII. That said, if I was going
to put in a tee, I would probably go one step further and
I guess the only other question is how do you arrange the sprit? The
forestay is almost a foot back from the pointy end where there is a heavy
aluminum casting and the fairleads to the bow cleats. I can't see a way to
run a retractable sprit through all that mess. Or do you just drill a hole
in
Luke,
The possibility to safely furl from the cockpit and then go forward only to
handle a thightly furled sail is a big plus indeed compared to the situations
you described, that do happen with a snuffer.
Bruno Lachance.
Envoyé de mon iPad
Le 9 août 2019 à 09:45, Luke Wolbrink
I put the fitting shown in the picture on my through hulls. I can attach a
garden hose which extends above the waterline (about 1 foot above the
floor) and use air, water, or a ram rod to clear a blockage.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B8pEh5lnvP1yYURDZGRKWWhpdzA/view?usp=drivesdk
Josh
Thanks for clarifying Bruno, we mostly do distance races like the Mac and
some shorter stuff but seldom less than 15miles, I avoid bouy races other
than wednesdays when it's not super stressful anyways. We end up loosing
more time screwing up the hoist/douse and simplifying is a big deal. The
I use a bungee cord extended to full length between the halyard and a hole in
the toe rail, so I can barely hook it to the toe rail.
Cheers,
Randy
S/V Grenadine
C 30-1 #7
Ken Caryl, CO
> On Aug 9, 2019, at 5:33 AM, David Knecht via CnC-List
> wrote:
>
> I recently did some more mast tuning
Hi Luke,
If you're 33-2 is older than '86, you probably have the C extrusion and
Klacko in Ontario should be able to help you with a solution. If ´86 or newer,
the mast would be an Offshore spar.
The furler is slower because it takes some time to furl the sail opposed to
pull the sock down.
there are different schools of thought on that. Some people swear by them other
at them. The strainers outside hull can easily plug, as well. especially, if
you have some growth on them.
Marek
From: robert via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, August 9, 2019 08:05
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: robert
I am pretty sure that one of the members on this list suggested to plumb an
extra T into the water intake (works only if your through hull is straight).
Normally, you use the 90 deg part of the T for the water intake. When plugged,
you attach a 30-50 cm of a hose (long enough to get you above
David,
an interesting idea. I always do it by touch, but it is hard to have repetitive
results like that.
thanks for the tip
Marek
1994 C270 Legato
Ottawa, ON
From: David Knecht via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, August 9, 2019 07:33
To: CnC CnC discussion list
Cc: David Knecht
Subject: Stus-List
Thanks for the responses. The local phrf will give me a 6s credit if I
ditch the pole, which is surprising. I'll look up the mast mfr, I just
assumed they were out of business.
Pete, why do you say the furler is slower? Does if affect boat speed or
just the time to roll and unroll vs douse?
David,
Next time your boat is hauled, put a thru hull strainer on ..the
plastic ones cost approx. $10..have had one for 13 years with no issues.
https://www.ebay.ca/sch/i.html?_nkw=thru+hull+strainer
Rob Abbott
AZURA
C 32 - #277
Halifax. N.S.
On 2019-08-09 8:44 a.m., David Knecht
Dave,
I had the exact scenario you describe happen to me, but even when diving
I couldn't see anything in the intake. I wound up taking the hose off
the through hull fitting, opening the ball valve and when no water came
in, pushing a screw driver down to clear the weeds.
Neil Gallagher
I used my dingy pump to clear it as suggested by a fellow older/ experienced
sailer at the club
Worked great
Peter
Goonie. Island
C 40 ac
Sent from my iPhone
> On Aug 9, 2019, at 7:44 AM, David Knecht via CnC-List
> wrote:
>
>
> --Apple-Mail=_A8123690-D75A-46E7-B590-E276645F1F8E
>
Last week on a cruise, we ran the motor while at anchor to warm the water tank
for showers. When we started the engine the next morning, I noticed the sound
of water from the exhaust seemed off and sure enough, a few minutes later the
engine began to overheat. We re-anchored and I went below
I recently did some more mast tuning with my new/old Loos gauge and have one
addition to all the guides I read that I think worked very well. The question
is how to tell when the mast tip is centered side to side. In most guides you
use the main halyard and measure the point where it touches
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