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Rick
So that’s topsides and boot stripe(s) only, or hole Hull as well?
John Conklin
S/V Halcyon
S/V Heartbeat
www.flirtingwithfire.com
On Mar 12, 2020, at 1:50 PM, Rick Brass via CnC-List
wrote:
I had Imzadi painted in the early spring of 2017 - almost exactly 3 years ago.
On the
First, knowing me and my somewhat casual approach to docking, I eschewed
AwlGrip and choose AwlCraft 2000 instead. It is more easily repairable.
Second, I managed to get Touche' professionally painted for about $4400 in
2011 by doing most the sanding and prep myself. I lightly sanded,
degreased
Dave,
Philosophically, the MRBF fuse should protect the wire from the battery to
through the switch to the PowerPost. That wire should be sized to handle
the maximum load on the PowerPost. If you run individual wires to each
fuse, that fuse should be sized to protect that circuit and its
Other point is that with Awlgrip is not really repairable. We sprayed our wed
night boat, a 1979 J 24, with Awlgrip about four years ago and have had to make
some repairs since.
I hear that Alexseal is much easier to work with if you need to do a repair. At
some point we are going to get
Ditto here. Just had it done and all estimates were in Joe’s range. Dave
S/V Aries
1990 C 34+
New London, CT
> On Mar 12, 2020, at 3:17 PM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List
> wrote:
>
> Wow – I don’t think I have got an estimate around here under 12-15K for a 35
> foot boat. That would be
Hi Dennis- That makes sense. I also have MRBF fuses on both batteries, so I
could presumably do the same. It would certainly simplify the wiring to just
connect that heavy battery cable at the panel end to a Powerpost and run from
that to the various circuits. I am never confident about
Wow – I don’t think I have got an estimate around here under 12-15K for a 35
foot boat. That would be worth going to NC to get done!
Joe Della Barba Coquina C 35 MK I
www.dellabarba.com
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rick Brass
via CnC-List
Sent:
The best tape to use to get a sharp line is green Frog Tape. It's available
at Home Depot.
Alan Bergen
On Thu, Mar 12, 2020 at 10:50 AM Rick Brass via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> I had Imzadi painted in the early spring of 2017 - almost exactly 3 years
> ago. On the
The PowerPost is about halfway between the battery switch and breaker
panel. Less than 3 foot runs each. The PowerPost is essentially fused
because there are MRBF fuse blocks on the battery positive posts.
Therefore, whether the battery switch is on "1" or "2", there is a fuse
prior to the
I had Imzadi painted in the early spring of 2017 - almost exactly 3 years ago. On the recommendation of the guy who does most of th ework I can't do myself, we used Alexseal 2-part paint. Alexseal is an alternative to Awlgrip or Imron. William reports very good results, and uses it for most of the
Hi Dennis- I just wanted to clarify your reply. The Powerpost Plus looks like
a nice way to distribute power and I had not seen that. Do you have that near
the main rotary switch or near the breaker panel? I gather this is not fused,
so if I simplified the wiring by bypassing the fuses and
Yes I got sheaves from Zepherworks, custom sizes and they work flawlessly.
Replaced 1 main, 2 jib halyards with XLS.
A great upgrade and no work frayed wire punctures in any body parts.
John
Landfall 38 – ECHOES
From: ALAN BERGEN [mailto:trya...@alumni.usc.edu]
Sent: March-12-20
One reason to use a fuse in addition to a breaker is to protect smaller
gauge wire. In many panels (like mine) breakers are 15A, which would
require all wire runs to be 10-12ga (maybe 8ga on larger boats for long
runs) in order to supply 15A without wire damage. Of course, C didn't use
this size
No idea what is in mine, but just tightened it yesterday after noticing
about 1 drip every 6-10 seconds while sitting. There was a lot of salt
around it, so it's probably been loose for a while, and the nice clean
bilge has now made it noticeable. Sliding the shaft back to remove
transmission may
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