That is exactly the process I used on our 27 MKIII to pull the prop shaft and
replace the cutlass bearing. Bruce Sent from Samsung tablet.
Original message From: Len Mitchell via CnC-List
Date: 5/19/20 8:26 PM (GMT-05:00) To: CNC List
Cc: Len Mitchell ,
phygi...@gmail.com
There's not enough room to use a puller in most boats. I can't even visualize
how that would work in the boats I've had.Bruce Sent from Samsung tablet.
Original message From: John Christopher via CnC-List
Date: 5/19/20 9:03 PM (GMT-05:00) To: Len Mitchell
Cc: John Christoph
Also, sometimes there is a set screw on top of the set screw for those who
like a belt and suspenders approach.
Bill Coleman
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Paul
Fountain via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, May 19, 2020 7:49 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Paul F
James, there is no reason why you cannot do your own. Before going out and
purchasing a dye penetrant kit I would polish the heads and the areas around
them. Once polished look for visible cracks. Often they show as a corrosion
line or will snag your fingernail. If you see one then you ca
What would it cost to have a C&C with rod rigging inspected? Reheaded? Rod
replaced?
It makes one think about buying a 70s-80s-90s era boat and having an immediate
large expense.
Joe Della Barba Coquina C&C 35 MK I
www.dellabarba.com
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On B
Joe,
2 years ago I had my rod rigging replaced plus a bunch of other repairs
done to my mast and boom. Total cost was $18k. Mast was pulled, inspected,
rewired, new rods, new furler on for stay, new staysail stay, new goose
neck. I added a second main halyard block. Back stay had insolators for SSB
Thanks Michael. The photos are a great help for what to look for.
Chuck Scheaffer, Resolute 1989 C&C 34R, Pasadena Md
> On May 20, 2020 at 11:24 AM Michael Brannon via CnC-List
> wrote:
>
> James, there is no reason why you cannot do your own. Before going
> out and purchasing a dye
Thanks Mike! Love this group!
> On May 20, 2020, at 8:09 AM, CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List
> wrote:
>
> Thanks Michael. The photos are a great help for what to look for.
>
> Chuck Scheaffer, Resolute 1989 C&C 34R, Pasadena Md
>> On May 20, 2020 at 11:24 AM Michael Brannon via CnC-List
>>
Allwhen tensioning the steering cable. It looks like the tank is sitting
in a pool of dieselI an bummed. It is the original aluminum tank, but the
boat has only been in fresh water - Lake Michigan - so I had though I was safe
from corrosion. Access to the tank is very limitedthe
Grand Banks have iron fuel tanks that rust through and were installed
prior to the engines and the deck. The usual routine with them is to cut
them apart and remove the pieces and replace them with smaller tanks
that fit through the hatches. My friend's boat has a leaking gas tank
glassed in pl
While some don't care for them, fuel bladders are a viable option. Might
want to explore that option.
Dennis C.
On Wed, May 20, 2020 at 11:25 AM ssjohnson via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> Allwhen tensioning the steering cable. It looks like the tank is
> sitting in a pool of
I plumbed in an outboard tank when I had to go someplace and my fuel
tank was home getting cleaned out ;)
Joe
On 5/20/2020 12:38 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List wrote:
While some don't care for them, fuel bladders are a viable option.
Might want to explore that option.
Dennis C.
On Wed, May 20,
Hi,
I hope you mopped the diesel up and cleaned with soap as much as you could
as quickly as possible. I've read about horror stories of diesel eating
the gelcoat / getting into the substrate and causing much worse damage...
-Francois Rivard
1990 34+ "Take Five"
Lake Lanier, GA
_
Hi Dennis,
One of our boat neighbors had a similar problem on a powerboat. He drained all
the fuel, cut multiple access ports in the top so he could get around any
baffles and coated the bottom and 3" up the side with an epoxy specially
designed to withstand fuel. He then made caps for the acc
d.? I cannot think of other
> optionsand am open to ideas/suggestions.? Cannot launch it as
> is...Spencer Johnson?84 LF38 "Alegria" #165Waukegan, IL / Racine, WI
> -- next part --
> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> URL:
> <htt
Yep. Years ago I did the same with a fuel tank on an old motorcycle
that had been idled for a while. I removed the tank, threw in a handful of
gravel, shook it around to remove rust, etc. Flushed it, poured in some
fuel tank repair epoxy, swirled it all around to coat the tank and
re-installed i
???
I worked on a big motoryacht once and the fuel tanks were molded into
the hull. The bottom of the fuel tank was the bottom of the boat. The
access plate on top of it leaked and it was a biatch and half to seal it
up. The leaking diesel had left a waxy coating on the fiberglass that
NOTHIN
I used to race on a Tripp 33 that experienced a diesel fuel bladder leak that
went undetected for quite some time. As Francois alluded to, the diesel worked
its way through the inner skin and into the core. The boat was totaled. As I
recall someone bought it for about $5K.
From: CnC-List
The aluminum fuel tank on my boat from 1989 developed a small leak underneath
while on the hard. A pin hole opened up after I had painted the bilge and the
reddish fuel trickled out from under the tank ontop the white paint. I never
located the offending pinhole as I found many areas of corros
Joe,
Call Jay at Annapolis Rigging. He did mine as part of an insurance claim. I
don’t recall the cost, but was happy with the service. They are located at
Janine Boat Yard.
Neil
1982 C&C 32 FoxFire
Neil Andersen
20691 Jamieson Rd
Rock Hall, MD 21661
484-354-8800
___
Thanks for all the options...knowing them is half the battle. I checked with
the Yard ... they suggested removing all fuel and trying a pressure test at no
more than 7psi. Off to get half a dozen 5 gallon Jerry cans :-(Spencer Johnson___
Thanks every
I just had my 44-year old tank pressure tested to the original manufacturer’s
specs. FYI, the industry standard at the time (stamped on the tank) was 3 psi.
From: CnC-List On Behalf Of ssjohnson via
CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, May 20, 2020 3:11 PM
To: CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Cc: ssjohnson
Subj
I had my yard replace my primary fuel tank several years ago. Neither the
engine nor the quadrant had to be removed. The yard cut out the panel just
ahead of the tank, removed the panel on the starboard side of the engine,
removed the water heater and cut out a piece of the bulkhead just aft o
My 38 year old aluminum tank had pinholes in the bottom where it sat on a
plywood platform. Replaced with plastic.
Gary 30-1
From: CnC-List On Behalf Of ssjohnson via
CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, May 20, 2020 12:23 PM
To: CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Cc: ssjohnson
Subject: Stus-List LF38 Fuel Tank R
I ordered a new forestay for my 33-2 this season at Klacko Spars in Oakville
Ontario. The old one had a kink at the top, probably from a haylard wrap, not
enough length to rehead so i decided to replace the whole thing.
The cost of the new forestay (# 8 rod) including the nose piece/fitting for
All,
Thanks for all of your gracious feedback, approaches, and experiences.
Checked to see if there were multiple set screws, etc. everything looks good
from that standpoint.
Removal continues to be an issue. I left the puller on the coupler with
pressure. Put some penetrating oil in the set s
Had a diesel fuel tank leak on a delivery from NC to Charleston for CRW--crew
patched it with some kind of black epoxy to stop it.
When back in NC, took the old tank to a shop that specialized in building
custom barbeque grills and they duplicated it for $460 in a little thinner than
original al
Mine used one 1/4" bolt through flange landing on woodruff key, and two
additional 5/16" bolts on flange landing directly on prop shaft. I use PB
Blaster on each of the bolts, and carefully backed them out slowly (SS
bolts, steel one piece flange), which worked well after waiting a day or so
after
When faced with seized metal joints sometimes alternating heat and cold helps.
There’s a spray COLD blaster.
Sent from my iPhone
On May 20, 2020, at 5:26 PM, Shawn Wright via CnC-List
wrote:
Mine used one 1/4" bolt through flange landing on woodruff key, and two
additional 5/16" bolts on f
So send us a pic or link - searching for cold in a covid year doesn’t work!
> On May 20, 2020, at 4:28 29PM, John Irvin via CnC-List
> wrote:
>
> When faced with seized metal joints sometimes alternating heat and cold
> helps. There’s a spray COLD blaster.
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>> O
It’s a 12oz. spray can. Go to an auto shop.
Sent from my iPhone
On May 20, 2020, at 7:39 PM, Lee Youngblood via CnC-List
wrote:
So send us a pic or link - searching for cold in a covid year doesn’t work!
On May 20, 2020, at 4:28 29PM, John Irvin via CnC-List
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
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