That is what I thought too. I did not think it was wise to disconnect the
green.
Thank you, I will let him know
Ahmet
On Wed, May 11, 2016 at 12:23 PM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> Ahmet — a three-pole breaker like that would typically be used on a
> 240-volt
It requires medium to reasonable skills, and some luck.
I doubt it that on a C&C 35 that the rudder would have to be removed.
Problem 1: Pulling the prop. Often, you need to heat up the prop in order
to remove the prop
Problem 2: Remove old bearing. There are specific pullers that can be used
to re
It is amazing that they would have this kind of places in Mongolia. And it
is open until 4 am :)
Ahmet
Boston, MA
On Wed, Mar 30, 2016 at 8:38 AM, Marek Dziedzic (hotmail) via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> they offer at least three kinds of steak on the menu (from what I could
> tell
For pure voltage readings, I buy this litttle unit, and wire it to the
banks. Works perfectly
http://www.amazon.com/DROK-Digital-Voltmeter-Voltage-Monitoring/dp/B00CHX7ZVA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1455586097&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=digital+voltage+display&psc=1
Ahmet
On Mon, Feb 15, 2016 at 7:56 PM,
Sorry folks, maybe gmail is filtering my own messages, because I don't see
them.
Is this getting through ?
I am not sure if I subscribed as ah...@sailnomad.com or sailno...@gmail.com
They are the same email, just different aliases.
Ahmet
___
Email addres
eal time to remove
> and re-bed the chainplates and covers with 3M 4200 as they are prone to
> leakage. Additionally, many of the boats produced in the mid 1970s had
> gate valves on cockpit drains and through hulls rather than proper ball
> valve seacocks. Same with hoses and hose cla
Replacing them now
> while your boat is not sailing might keep your boat from sinking one day.
>
> Compared to the Capri 25, your boat has way more interior space, and stand
> up headroom for anyone under 5’7” down below. Not too many 25 ft. boats
> can brag of that!
>
> We
5, 2016 at 8:54 PM, Mark McMenamy via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> Hi Ahmet,
>
> I'm lucky to have had the former owner put self tailing winches. It also
> has new Doyle sails and a new Suzuki 9.9hp outboard.
>
> That's all I have for a HIN.
>
>
apri 25 so I appreciate the feedback.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Mark
>
> On Jan 25, 2016, at 7:42 PM, Ahmet via CnC-List
> wrote:
>
> I just bought one last August and love it.
> A good friend has one too, so we race all the time. His is a 1974.
> What is your hull ID. Let me k
I did the same on my 25. Although it is probably stronger, I am hesitant on
putting too much load, so that I don't bend the toerail.
I did actually tapped the toerail to reduce the load on the washer/nut
under the deck.
It will probably be a b**ch to get it out, having the stainless bolts on
the al
I just bought one last August and love it.
A good friend has one too, so we race all the time. His is a 1974.
What is your hull ID. Let me know what you want to know. I posted a few
things in the past, and there is some pretty good info on the web.
Ahmet
1973 C&C 25 "Tabasco"
Winthrop, MA
On Mon,
On my 25, I installed a bilge pump in the sump, and connected it to the old
refrigirator line, which was long gone but the remainders of the manual
pump and the line was still there, running to the transom.
Ahmet
On Thu, Jan 21, 2016 at 1:28 PM, Marek Dziedzic (hotmail) via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc
I installed the Kingston D-352 Davits. It is different from the regular
davitses and has an ingenious support system that uses the transom. It is a
single bent Stainless Steel 3 inch tube. The quality of the blocks are not
the best, but the stailess hardware is good, it is very easy to mount, and
I
Oh no, I would not recommend to tow the dinghy with an outboard on,
especially in any seaway.
It increases the center of gravity, and a 4 ft wave at the right time and
angle may be enough to flip it.
Then you will have a much harder time to right it, and probably junk the
engine.
Secondary issue is
Well, it is a combination. A good example here:
The C&C 25 has an aft compartment under the tiller, where the gas tank
sits. It is practically on the cockpit, and any fumes just drain out from a
little drain hole.
Now some industrious owners (like a previous owner of "Tabasco") decided to
open up t
I have a mast mount because that is how my boat came, but would prefer a
high (12+ft) stern pole.
I had twice problems with my stern pole radar on my previous boat which I
was easily able to fix (broken belt, and water in the unit) which would
have been a major issue on the mast mount (at least for
On larger boats it is not as much of a problem because you have to head
into the wind anyway.
On my C&C 25 I can raise the main anywhere from beam reach on. So lazy
jacks create a inconvinience.
Now on a 25 you really don't need one, but I will install something to save
me the 3 minutes of packing
True, I forgot to mention that.
Ahmet
On Tue, Dec 8, 2015 at 9:49 PM, Dave via CnC-List
wrote:
> I keep a manual hand drill on the boat- yard sale item, I use it fairly
> often. Batteries never die.
> Dave
>
>
> Message: 6
> Date: Tue, 8 Dec 2015 20:24:11 -0600
> From: "Dennis C."
> To: CnCl
I bought a set of 20V DeValt impact driver and drill, came with two
batteries and a charger from Home Depot when they were on sale. Very nice
and powerful. They are marginally better than the 18V ones.
I also have a Ryobi jigsaw with 2 batteries,. I also got a very powerful
searchlight that was wo
I bought one of these little battery chargers, and plugged it in. It cought
fire overnight and did some damage. I was woken up by the fire alarm when
there was about 1 ft of flames on a 6 by 6 surface almost licking the
headliner.
Doused it with a blanket.
They sent me a free unit. Still trying to
Just won my second 30ST winch for $188.- . on ebay
Now I have self tailing winches on both sides.
My crew will be happy :)
Ahmet
On Tue, Dec 1, 2015 at 7:10 PM, S Thomas via CnC-List wrote:
> I put a bid in, and looked around at some of the other winches offered for
> sale. Started also checking
Happy thanksgiving to everyone.
Living on the boat, we usually have a Marina Thanksgiving, but this year we
will be with friends in New Hampshire.
I personally really appreciate the know-how and participation of this list.
Happy gobble gobble
--
---
Ahmet
*"
Thank You, that is a lot of information condensed.
I have a challenge. Whoever built my hull # 5, missed the sump location by
an inch. So I need to extend the sump wall horizontally.
I would thing that I would start wetting structural mat and go horizontally
out from where the exposed nut is. It is
I suspect, you are right. 40+ years of corrosion.
Was it lack of material knowlege ?, cutting costs on hardware ?, I was
trying to figure out what the material is. It is very magnetic, So I
presume it was just simple steel. The nuts and bolts are in good shape
after all.
Nonetheless, I love Taba
eparate cut-outs for the back two bolts.
> >
> >
> >
> > Rick Taillieu
> >
> > Nemesis
> >
> > '75 C&C 25 #371
> >
> > Shearwater Yacht Club
> >
> > Halifax, NS.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
I would suggest convert it to pdf (save as pdf, or print to pdf)
There is a images section on the C&C group site, otherwise, temporarily you
can email it to me (ah...@sailnomad.com) and I can add it to my images
website.
Ahmet
On Tue, Nov 24, 2015 at 6:39 PM, ahycrace--- via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cn
Yes, I will.
Once I am on the dry and have all the right materials. The purpose of this
was to see the condition of the washers, nuts, bolts and bilge.
At least now I know that the source of all the rust were 3 ferrous backing
plates that were used, probably because of ignorance or sloppyness I don
Not not hijack this tread, I changed the subject. Since we seem to have
epoxy experts here.
I am trying to take out some slight unevenness from the bottom of my bilge
so that my keel bolt washers have an even contact.
Can I use some low viscosity epoxy, just pour it into the bilge, probably
dam o
tting it if you want. You could use
> mold release on the bolts or the G10 board if you thought that you might
> want to remove either in the future.
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C&C 37+
> Solomons, MD
> On Nov 8, 2015 10:37 PM, "Ahmet via CnC-List"
&g
I got one for $350, looking for a second.
So I have a self-tailer on Starboard tack and an regular winch on port tack
:)
I missed an Ebay auction for a pair for $600 something.
These are the older single speed ones.
The newer 2 speed ones go for about $800 each.
Ahmet
On Fri, Nov 20, 2015 at 6:
Waterdancer, although an amazingly good sailor (for a Irwin Center Cockpit)
has a a wing keel and a great Yanmar Turbo engine, but functions as a
floating apartment.
Hence the C&C 25.
Since we are both working, my wife would not be happy to have her home not
to be there when she comes back home.
H
And the oxygen may actually help :)
I know that if you overcharge a battery, or it is a bad battery, you get a
sulfur smell.
99% of the time I am running on shore power. The battery voltage oscillates
between 12.7 and 14.1
I suspect that most of the charging current goes directly to my consumption
There is usually a way to "Goto waypoint" I did that in the early 2000's
with my Garmin 262 and ST4000 autopilot. The autopilot (or GPS, I don't
remeber) will ask for confirmation before switching to now waypoint.
Ever since then, I always had GPS and Autopilots on my boats, but have
never bother
A lot of people paraise using Butyl tape for attaching windows.
I have not done it, but I can see the results on my C&C Hull/Deck joint,
and it looks pretty good
Ahmet
On Mon, Nov 9, 2015 at 5:48 PM, Gary Russell via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> Hi Bruce,
> Welcome to the C&C
mail program, if you hit *reply all* instead of
> *reply*, my email address should be listed too)
>
>
>
> Rick Taillieu
>
> Nemesis
>
> '75 C&C 25 #371
>
> Shearwater Yacht Club
>
> Halifax, NS.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:
The transducers I removed were twist and pull type. They usually have to
o-rings on them. You should have a dummy plug to put in there ASAP
(i.e.within seconds) if you are in the water.
They are designed to be removed while in the water, but is is a very
"exciting" process.
On some boats there is a
Next year I will race Tabasco a bit. I have 2 headsails, one seems to be a
105, the other a 130.
I like the 105, because it is easy to tack, and strong enough to have an
enjoyable sail if I am lazy and it is blowing over 10.
The sail in Sailboatdata looks like a pretty big sail, like a 150.
What i
et,
>
>
>
> I uploaded some pictures of my bilge here,
> http://postimg.org/gallery/3eg9rsocy/
>
> Let me know if the link works for you.
>
>
>
> Rick Taillieu
>
> Nemesis
>
> '75 C&C 25 #371
>
> Shearwater Yacht Club
>
> Halifax,
Sorry folks, correction. I am planning on removing the *keel nuts and
washers*, not the bolts.
*Ahmet*
*Winthrop Yacht Club / Constitution Marina, Boston, MA*
*1990 Irwin 43 CC "Waterdancer"*
*1973 C&C 25 "Tabasco"*
On Sat, Nov 7, 2015 at 2:29 PM, Ahmet via CnC-List
out.
> If the hull to keel joint is sound I would not intentionally disturb it.
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C&C 37+
> Solomons, MD
> On Nov 7, 2015 2:30 PM, "Ahmet via CnC-List"
> wrote:
>
>> Hi everybody,
>> Last August I bought a 197
gt;
> Halifax, NS.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Ahmet
> via CnC-List
> *Sent:* November-07-15 15:30
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Ahmet
> *Subject:* Stus-List Keel attachment issues
Hi everybody,
Last August I bought a 1973 C&C 25 "Tabasco" for fun sailing, since I
realized that may Irwin 43 "Waterdancer" is a great liveaboard for us, but
really not a daysailor :)
I love the way Tabasco sails, very easy to handle and fast boat.
Being a 43 year old boat, obviously she is an o
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