Not sure where you are but we purchased a s/s tank from Ballard Sheetmetal many
years ago. They made it to our specs and are located in Ballard, WA.
Dave.
SLY
1975 C&C 33
Sent from my iPhone
> On Jan 14, 2019, at 3:48 PM, Languid Refiner via CnC-List
> wrote:
>
> Hi Everyone,
>
> Is a rep
In my experience headsail halyards are led on the port side and main on the
starboard. On SLY we carry just three headsail halyards configured as one jib
and two spinnaker. When changing jibs we use one of the spin halyards and back
to the jib if we need to change headsails again. This all works
Kyle,
Bottom paint is a funny thing. Different paints seem to do better in different
areas. If you are talking about the other Washington, Pettit Trinidad SR has
worked great for us in central Puget Sound. The bad thing about hard bottom
paint is that after awhile you end up with a build up of t
Randy,
I live in Seattle and have been dealing with Moyer Marine for many years and
the long distance relationship has not been an issue. I have purchased two A4's
from them (one was a short block and the other a rebuild) and returned two core
engines. I very much believe in these guys and I wou
I just made a small contribution. This is my first because I have no
understanding about what costs are associated with this service so it has been
hard for me to determine what amount would be appropriate. Maybe a ballpark
figure about Stu's expenses and/or a suggested contribution amount would
Dave,
I have to confess that I rebed my original hatch to stop a leak and ended up
through bolting it and used acorn nuts. Wish I hadn't. Looks bad and I do keep
hitting my head. Wish I knew of butyl tape when I did the job.
Dave. Kaseler
SLY
1975 C&C 33
Sent from my iPad
> On Sep 26, 2017, at
Jack I agree with all you say.
Dave.
1975 C&C 33
SLY
Sent from my iPad
> On Sep 18, 2017, at 8:33 AM, jackbrennan via CnC-List
> wrote:
>
> Of course, the caveat to all of this is that, depending on where you sail,
> even up-to-date charts can be anywhere from mildly off to wildly and
> dan
Chris,
Wow. Things can get pretty complicated.
We have been sailing around Puget Sound including the Georgia Strait for 40
years. We have a small Garmin GPS below at the nav station. The important
navigation tools for us are my paper charts, parallel rules, dividers, a
plastic speed distance ti
Lots of folks have been talking about fuel tank fill and advising a 90 degree
intake for simpler hose attachment.
SLY has two fuel tanks, one plastic under the cockpit where the original
aluminum one was with a straight vertical intake hose connection, plus another
stainless tank forward under
We replaced our life lines some years ago. What I remember is that it was not
that hard. My wife says we got the parts from West Marine but I think we got
them from somewhere else. In any case you need a good tool to cut the wire and
a good tool for nicro pressing. And careful measuring.
Dave. K
Joe,
The original 33s are great boats we still have ours and love her. For us, she
both cruises and races well. Old IOR design creates some challenges with the
spinnaker in a blow but you can learn to deal with that. From our prospective
she is the right size for a couple.
Hope you find a buyer.
I agree with Marek except for his comments about windsurfing. I have only tried
windsurfing once and failed but if I were to start this sailing thing over
again I would start in a dinghy, then spend some time on a windsurfer to help
me learn to steer with my sails and angle of heal, so to learn
Have you tried a toilet plunger. These old fashioned tools create a lot of
suction if there is some standing water in the icebox. Worked for me.
Dave.
SLY
1975 C&C 33
Sent from my iPad
> On Aug 2, 2017, at 4:08 AM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List
> wrote:
>
> The hose ends under the sink. Not easy
What about a wind scoop? We built one for our black hulled boat SLY. Works
pretty good here in the northwest.
Dave.
1975 C&C 33 SLY
Sent from my iPad
> On Jul 15, 2017, at 9:28 AM, kelly petew via CnC-List
> wrote:
>
> Hello Listers,
>
> On these really, hot days here on the Chesapeake, I am
I never lost possession of the boat and nothing was stripped.
Dave.
Sent from my iPad
> On Jul 14, 2017, at 9:13 AM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List
> wrote:
>
> I’ve heard this as well — except usually the insurance company sells it to a
> salvage company first, who then strips out anything of val
In my case the insurance company just let me keep the boat. I did not have to
negotiate this they just offered. I think they are happier not keeping the
boat. Then they don't have to deal with the boat. I'd guess it all depends in
what they see as it's value on the market in the damaged conditio
Some years ago I too had a problem involving a mast. We were in a collision
with a Hans Christian or similar boat with a bow sprit. The other boat's
bobstay rode up on our toe rail and her bow sprit punched our mast leaving a
dent. We were unable to find a replacement spar that was affordable an
And of course, we have an adjustable tiller extension so she can sit on the
rail.
Dave
Sent from my iPad
> On Jul 10, 2017, at 1:46 PM, David Kaseler via CnC-List
> wrote:
>
> Hi. Good plan.
> My guess is the Anytiller guys know the original specks. Did you ask? We, on
Hi. Good plan.
My guess is the Anytiller guys know the original specks. Did you ask? We, on
our 33 mark 1 bought a longer stock tiller (from West Marine I think) so the
skipper could sit up against the bulkhead. Works really good, especially in
racing situations. Crew working lines behind the s
Someone with more knowledge than I should help you with this but you should
understand that traditional stuffing boxes are designed to leak. The water
keeps the unit lubricated and cool. I now have what they call a dripless
stuffing box which is a completely different design to accomplish the sa
I need to put in my two cents. Many years ago we had a Newport 27 with a depth
sounder mounted on a hinged arm. The mount was inside the cabin but could be
swung out so the display was in the center of the companionway. Because the
unit was mounted on a plate that swiveled it could be viewed fro
I use Marvel Mystery Oil in the gasoline for my Atomic 4 engine as advised by
Don Moyer of Moyer Marine. These guys are the authority for all things Atomic
4. I also use it in my two air cooled VWs. I think it helps keep the interior
parts properly lubricated. You should be able to find this pro
Open V-cleats? Ok, I just call them jam cleats. In any case, I would hesitate
to use them for a halyard application unless it was for a temporary application
as Dennis C. suggests. Having said that I use them for my headsail sheets and
like them very much. We have no conventional cleats in SLY's
Big reason for a battery box is to protect against accidental shorting if the
terminals.
Dave.
1975 C&C 33
SLY
Sent from my iPad
> On May 20, 2017, at 1:25 PM, john sandford via CnC-List
> wrote:
>
> I like the ratchet strap idea.
> Mine are gel, no box, and the crummy plastic CTyre strap.
>
lgring Jr via CnC-List
> Sent: Thursday, May 4, 2017 11:29 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Harry Hallgring Jr
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Sail advice - 1, 2 , 3 go
>
> Go Pats!!!
>
> Harry
> Sent from my iPhone 8 beta
>
> On May 4, 2017, at 11:10, David Kasel
Kind of like under inflating footballs just a little.
Dave.
SLY 1975 C&C 33
Sent from my iPad
> On May 3, 2017, at 7:56 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List
> wrote:
>
> No problem. Hack saw, bosun chair and poof! Shorter spreaders. :)
>
> Seriously, could be a very subtle cheat for one design or PH
I'm no expert as I have no lazy jacks and have never used them but my concern
would be the potential of putting extra stress on the spreaders causing them to
become misaligned.
Dave. Kaseler
SLY, 1975 C&C 33
Sent from my iPad
> On Apr 19, 2017, at 9:54 AM, Eric Frank via CnC-List
> wrote:
>
Tom.
I'm no rigger but I too have a C&C 33-1. Also, ours is not the original mast so
things are different and I do suggest you discuss this issue with a
professional rigger. I believe the spreader should be angled up as you see on
yours. The trick is to direct the load evenly from the shroud so
Kevin,
Not sure if I'm off the mark here but when our kids were young the best
entertainment on rainy days or long passages was a big box of LEGOS. When
sailing we built boats to tow behind and when at anchor we sailed and rowed in
our dinghy, played on the beach, hiked and explored ashore and
Also, don't forget you have to get the starter back on, sometimes this can be
harder than getting it off because you need to get hands in there as well to
start the bolt, and the starter is heavy. I did cut a new access port some
years ago but it still is difficult to get to the starter motor.
I received Document renewal notices from both the USCG and "U.S. VESSEL
DOCUMENTATION" both on the same day in the US mail. Thanks to this list I
quickly knew what was up and have renewed via the USCG notice.
Thanks,
Dave.
1976 C&C 33
SLY
Sent from my iPad
> On Feb 10, 2017, at 1:19 PM, Dreuge
Moyer Marine stocks choke cables in two different lengths. One is quite long
and can be cut to length.
Dave.
1975 C&C 33
SLY
Sent from my iPad
> On Jan 26, 2017, at 9:15 PM, Jim Watts via CnC-List
> wrote:
>
> And it won't be any available length except for one in Lima, Peru, that they
> wil
Turns out, in my view, the success of spinnaker set, gybe and take down is
controlled at the helm. When the boat is correctly driven through the maneuver
the job on the foredeck is much more manageable. Please don't tell my wife the
skipper.
Dave. K
SLY 1975 C&C 33
Sent from my iPad
> On Dec 5
I have no experience with the 32 so should not comment but I have an early 33
(1975) which was converted from wheel to tiller by a prior owner. In our case
we would have it no other way. Our only modification was to replace the tiller
with a longer version so my wife, the skipper sits up against
We've lived with a Martel two bladed folding prop forever. Occasionally one
blade will not open but putting it in reverse and back into forward has always
worked for us. Each time we haul out (once every two or three years here in the
Northwest) we remove the blades and thoroughly clean and poli
The best source of info and parts I have found for the atomic 4s is Moyer
Marine. They have a Atomic 4 Community which they call Home of the Afourians.
If you are not familiar with them check them out at moyermarine.com. You can
ask the Afourians or call Don Moyer direct. They have saved my day
I'm reluctant to comment but Hobbie 33s were popular years ago here on Puget
Sound but were rumored to capsize prone. I would defiantly go the inside route.
I've only run the East River once as a teenager, I'm talking the late 1950's
but I do remember lots of commercial traffic and strong curren
We too have a 1975 33 with an Atomic 4. What is your hull number? We cruise at
1800 RPMs and get about 6 knots. We are in the process of replacing our engine
with a rebuilt from Moyer Marine. If you are not familiar with Moyer Marine
you should be. They are the authority on all things Atomic 4.
Marek.
Doesn't sound funny to me. One of our biggest safety concerns we have on SLY,
our 1975 C&C 33, is having my wife or I fall overboard. Even with the Life
Sling this is a serious risk especially in cold water as we have here in the
Northwest. I'd love to have a boat with an open transom.
Da
boat that had been sitting for a few years. That
> worked good to free it up, and I recommend it for that purpose, but it won't
> last. Winch grease or some other kind of water resistant grease will last a
> lot longer.
>
> Steve Thomas
> C&C27 MKIII
> Port Stan
--Original Message-
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David
> Kaseler via CnC-List
> Sent: Monday, August 08, 2016 4:48 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: David Kaseler
> Subject: Stus-List C&C 33 Rudder Post lubrication
>
I have a C&C 33 from 1975 and I have just discovered what appears to be a very
deteriorated grease cup fitting on the fiberglass tube which supports the
rudder post. It appears that the top of the grease cup itself has rotted away
leaving just the sides and a very rusty body. I touched it and so
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