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I recently finished building the KSB2 and did the alignment on the
filters. Everything seems to be working as advertised, except on
transmit my voice sounds raspy. I haven't had time to dig into the
problem yet, but I did try 3 separate mics and got the same result. For
my test, I
I'm enjoying the KDSP2 module in my K2. It is the most effective audio DSP I
have used. I have some questions, though.
1.) The filter C1, or c1 comes up on the menu as a lowpass filter and seems
to be fixed. Can it be changed to a bandpass ? If so, how ? The manual is
not clear on this.
In message [EMAIL PROTECTED], John R. Lonigro
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes
I recently finished building the KSB2 and did the alignment on the
filters. Everything seems to be working as advertised, except on
transmit my voice sounds raspy. I haven't had time to dig into the
problem yet, but I did
Just switch ON clock in SECondary K2 menu
- Message initial
De : Chuck Guenther [EMAIL PROTECTED]
À : elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Envoyé le : mercredi 13 décembre 2006, 08 h 22 min 38 s
Objet : [Elecraft] KDSP2 questions
2.) Referring to the KDSP2 Manual, page 38, troubleshooting: The
Hi Folks,
I'd like to know from the collective wisdom what solvent may be used on
Elecraft PC assemblies to remove some residual flux and flux smears.
It seems to me that a solvent that wouldn't harm boards and components was
isopropyl alcohol (rubbing alcohol) in the old days.
What do you
Bill:
I use denatured alcohol and a commercial spray-on flux remover. Both
seem to work about equally well for me. Denatured alcohol can be found
at any hardware store, of course, and is cheaper than the flux remover.
I apply alcohol with a small brush. In some cases, a cotton swab is
useful,
There are/were many flux removal chemicals available,
but in today's over-protective society they're hard to
find. I treasure my stock of triclorethelyne (SP?). (:-))
Rubbing alcohol and a small stiff brush work well.
I place a paper towel on the board, between the brush
and the board, to soak
If you go to the drug store and look closely you can find 91% isopropyl
alcohol. The remaining 9% is water which won't hurt anything.
Works fine esp with acid brush previously mentioned.
73
jim ab3cv
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I'm sure others will suggest many options although if you read the Elecraft
manuals you'll find, in bold type:
DO NOT use ... solvents of any kind. Use of any of these will void your
warranty.
If you need to clean your boards you're probably using too much solder. Try
a smaller diameter
At least around here, 99% isopropyl is readily available, and is only
slightly more expensive.
73, doug
From: Jim Miller [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Date: Wed, 13 Dec 2006 12:30:24 -0500
If you go to the drug store and look closely you can find 91% isopropyl
alcohol. The remaining 9% is
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In spite of my posting about paper towel and acid brushes,
I fully agree with Ron's observation that if one uses the
proper size and kind of solder there won't be a need to
clean your board/s.
I haven't needed to clean mine ...
73! Ken Kopp - K0PP
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
or
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
After you clean your boards and void your warranty, take that 91% alcohol,
put about a half-inch in the bottom of a one-gallon glass apple cider jug,
swirl it around, and drop in a match. It'll entertain the kids for hours.
To do it again you may have to blow into the jug to add some oxygen.
How long till my eyebrows grow back?? - Mike ab3ap
Craig Rairdin wrote:
After you clean your boards and void your warranty, take that 91% alcohol,
put about a half-inch in the bottom of a one-gallon glass apple cider jug,
swirl it around, and drop in a match. It'll entertain the kids for
At 02:06 PM 12/13/2006, Craig Rairdin wrote...
After you clean your boards and void your warranty, take that 91%
alcohol,
put about a half-inch in the bottom of a one-gallon glass apple cider
jug,
swirl it around, and drop in a match. It'll entertain the kids for
hours.
Only if picking glass
I should've mentioned that you shouldn't view it through the hole at the
top. :-)
The effect ranges from a sharp whoosh of fire out the top to a beautiful,
slow, bubbling wall of fire from the top to the bottom of the jug that makes
a low wah sound -- hence the name wah bottle that we attach to
Sometimes we tend to forget things... I forgot that not everyone had
access to a broadband Internet connection... as a result, I continued
to add (mercilessly, I must add) items to my web site... ALL on the
main page, creating a monster which must have had some folks pulling
out all remaining
Tom Hammond wrote:
...
When you have nothing better to do, please visit my site and see if
things are a bit easier to navigate. And, if you find ANY problems
accessing files, or anything that's supposed to be there, but isn't...
PLEASE let me know as soon as possible
Hi Tom,
Can anyone tell me what the W1 software will display other than SWR? Will it
show peak power or anything else? I downloaded the software a few weeks ago and
the and I could only see the SWR function.
73
Zack
N8FNR
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Built or kit is fine
Thanks
George NE2I
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Did you download the Windows software? If so the default display shows that
you can monitor both the forward power and SWR as moving bars and with
numerical readouts in their own windows.
That's the default. Then you can start pulling up other data.
Clicking REVERSE will change the SWR bar and
You could always go to a Liquor store and get some Everclear, pure spirits.
However, cleaning of the Elecraft boards is NOT necessary nor desirable.
You never know what the plastics in today's parts will do in the presence of
solvents. Use of the cut off acid brushes will work, but only as
Hello Everybody!
The Holiday Season is upon us, so that can only mean
one thing to QRPers! Yes, new kits under the tree ...
so I guess it means two things to QRPers! The second
is the running of the QRP-ARCI Holiday Spirits
Homebrew Sprint.
2006 HOLIDAY SPIRITS HOMEBREW SPRINT
DATE/TIME:
I have read the 25 reasons commonly found for K2 poor reception, and many other
posts.
My K2 receives, transmits, and I get good reports. All of the resistance and
voltage checks were right on the mark. The alignment was done by the manual,
but as I recall there were some times that I did
I assume you mean the rtc (real-time clock). It is on (or at least starts
out that way, with power on). However, after some time of operation, I get
not inst. The DSP filters work fine-- I just can't call them up in the
menu to edit them or make changes without doing the power on/off.
So far
Folks,
Excess to my needs a pair of Sony noise canceling headphones and some
nice parts draws to stash your parts. Pix here:
http//:RCerkon.googlepages.com/partsdrawers
http//:RCerkon.googlepages.com/sonynoisecancelingheadphones
--
73, Rod Ai7NN
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Chuck,
If you get the not inst message it means that the KDSP2 is not being
recognized.
The fact that it is intermittent indicates that there is a bad solder
connection somewhere.
You might try re-flowing the solder on the KDSP2 board.
73,
Don W3FPR
-Original Message-
I assume you
Steve,
Are you perhaps confusing 'hearing louder' with 'hearing better'?
The K1 has an extra stage of audio amplification, so signals may appear
louder - but listen for the extremely weak signals, you should find the K2
is better in digging out those weak ones - that is the K2's better MDS and
I just noticed I'm getting a Hi Cur message only on 30m.
The set up:
- K2/100 into dummy load (KAT100 disconnected)
- Power set to 100 W
- CAL CUR set to 3.50 A
- When CAL CUR is 4.10 A, current drawn on 30m levels out at 4.02 A
- When I drop to 85 to 90 W, 30m draws just under 3.50 A
- All
Mike Markowski wrote:
...
If anyone has been through this, what do you think - have I possibly
zorched my PAs?...
That should have saidhave I zorched my PA's power transistors?
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You must
Mike,
First, count the number of turns on L4, L5 and L6 in the KPA100 - count the
turns that go through the center of the core rather than the outside. An
extra turn on these windings would produce the Hi-cur on 30 meters.
How old is your KPA100? If the kit was ordered mid-2005, then you may
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