My K2 is a few years old and I have used it exclusively for CW. Now, I am
setting it up for SSB with a Heil Pro set. SSB is working and sounds good
however some people tell me it could have a little bit more punch. I think I
have the IMD mod done too.
When I talk loudly, where should the ALC
K3 – KPA3 ERR
12V – FAULT FOUND
Hi all, while
experimenting on the K3 (SN 01757) 1st mixer replacement, with the
I7SWX 2T H-Mode Mixer , we proceed on the calibration routine on TX. No errors
were reported for the 5W and 50W power output.
While testing
the RF output (dummy load) on all band we
My K2 is a few years old and I have used it exclusively for CW. Now, I am
setting it up for SSB with a Heil Pro set. SSB is working and sounds good
however some people tell me it could have a little bit more punch. I think I
have the IMD mod done too.
When I talk loudly, where should the ALC
Lately I have been hearing what sound like random clicks coming from my amp
after transmitting for a short time. Power is good and fan comes on as
needed. I don't remember hearing any sounds at all other than the fan when
the amp was new. Any one else having the same experience with the KPA500?
I got in late on the KAT500 discussion and was wondering if it has been
determined if it will have a swr/wattmeter built in similar to the W2 in
design? I didn't see anything in past posts.
Thanks
Tim
NZ8J
K3 3334
P3 (in transit from Elecraft)
KPA500 (on the horizon) :)
Well in light that I cannot get 4w requested power on the K3 to reach 40v
p-p, I'll try to do a full system reset and redo all of the calibration
procedures. How do I access the reset command?
TJ W0EA
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Both have been sold. Thanks for all the inquiries.
73,
Fred K6DGW
- Northern California Contest Club
- CU in the 2012 Cal QSO Party 6-7 Oct 2012
- www.cqp.org
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... is that K1 still available? If so, what firmware version does it have?
I don't mean to answer for John, but perhaps this is some useful information:
The firmware of the K1 front panel PIC hasn't changed since January 2001
(version 1.09), which would be earlier than K1 serial 589.
IIRC,
I had the same problem (and I think several others have also). Gary told me to
use the shorter screws so it would be snug. They really need 1/4 screws or
deeper holes. Mine was serial 370.
Bob W6VY
Message: 1
Date: Sat, 03 Dec 2011 01:31:28 -0800
From: Jim Bennett w6...@mac.com
Subject:
You can use the line in/out for PSK in the DATA-A mode. Then you don't
worry about speakers, headset or microphone. With the bonus that you don't
have to reset the levels every mode change.
Rick WA6NHC
-Original Message-
From: Richard Fjeld
The keyboard was hiding it. I had been
In the 1960's one very popular and cheap H.F. antenna was the folded dipole.
Often they were made from the ubiquitous 300 ohm twin lead used on TV
antennas and fed with the same twin lead since the impedance of a folded
dipole is close to 300 ohms. The first time I saw 4:1 baluns being sold to
You should have gotten an errata sheet showing that you need to 1/4 screws
there. The screws were to be packaged in a separate envelope. If they are
not in there, call Elecraft or drop an e-mail to K3support at Elecraft dot
com.
Ron AC7AC
-Original Message-
From:
On 12/8/2011 7:51 PM, Alan Bloom wrote:
There's a simple way to look at this that requires no high-level math or
complicated analysis.
__
I1 -- | | | | I3 --
| |--| |---
Transmitter | BALUN |
The assembly manual is wrong, I notified Elecraft a few days ago of the
same issue. You should fnd there are enough smaller screws to not run short
when you use them for the Z bracket to heatsink assembly.
73 Dave, G4AON
KPA500 #573
I Just started assembling my
If the balun is at the input, then there can be only one antenna
connected at the output. I guess that's another reason to put the balun
at the output.
Alan N1AL
On Fri, 2011-12-09 at 05:07 -0500, Ken wrote:
On Dec 8, 2011, at 10:51 PM, Alan Bloom wrote:
The disadvantage of putting the
Someone with sharp eyes will catch my mistake, so I'll correct it first. I
should have said, The first time I saw 4:1 baluns being sold to Hams was to
make it easy to connect the 300 ohm feeder to such a folded dipole to the
output of a rig designed to feed 75 ohms instead of 50 ohms.
Many Ham
5% of 50 watts is not 5 watts.
73, Mike
On 12/9/2011 10:32 AM, Eugene Balinski wrote:
From what I understand, the meter is rated at 5% of the
**full scale** rating according to Bird. Full scale
rating, is the rating on the slug.
That would mean that for a meter with a 100W slug, your
Richard -
Since no one else has your ears, their settings are pretty much useless to you.
Adjust til you get what you like.
73, Mike NF4L
On 12/9/2011 4:32 PM, Richard Fjeld wrote:
I'd like some help from K3 folks using a CM500 headset with setting the
RECEIVE Eq.
How can I use this to an
Tony,
Great point... Stainless vs. aluminum? Unless you have a need based on
use... I would stick with the supplied softer screws to avoid unnecessary
wear when removing and re-installing. My standard screws on K2, KX1 and K3
are doing just super, no rust. I did FT on both the K2 and KX1 and
The new forthcoming KX3 includes an optional 20-watt automatic tuner called the
KXAT3. Question: is this the same as or better than the T1 20-watt
auto-tuner? Are there clear advantages to owning the KXAT3 versus maybe using
the T1 for portable/field QRP operations.
Thanks,
73, phil, K7PEH
Hi Phil,
The KXAT3 has a few advantages over the T1 when used with the KX3:
- wider matching range (16 network elements vs. 14)
- nothing extra to carry
- well-integrated with the radio (for example, you can use the menu to
see what the ATU settings are, test the relays manually, etc.)
-
Mike. but 5% of full scale for a 100 watt slug is 5 watts. That is
exactly the point being made. The error is a percentage of the Full
scale reading, and not a percentage of the actual reading.
A 250 watt slug can have an error of 37.5 watts - whether the power
reading is at 10 watts or 50
Hi Mike,
We're going to look seriously at the SS screws for all products.
We've actually been using the current black oxide steel type of screw
for the external screws since we started the company with the K2. These
are the same type of screw used by Alpha amps and a number of other ham
Sorry about this, guys - this post went out days and days ago - why it is just
now showing up is beyond me.. AND, the problem is fixed.
On Saturday, Dec 3, 2011, at Saturday, 1:31 AM, Jim Bennett wrote:
I Just started assembling my KPA500 serial number 0585 this evening. All was
going OK
Wayne,
Thanks! Elecraft comes through again!
Mike W0MU
W0MU-1 CC Cluster w0mu.net
On 12/9/2011 6:33 PM, Eric Swartz - WA6HHQ, Elecraft wrote:
Hi Mike,
We're going to look seriously at the SS screws for all products.
We've actually been using the current black oxide steel type of screw
Sorry I hit Send too soon --,the 5% error with a 250 watt slug is 12.5
watts - if the wattmeter has been recently calibrtrated. So a reading
of 25 watts can have an actual; power between 12.5 and 37.5 watts! This
is with one of the most highly respected wattmeters -- when the power is
lower
Another reason why I love Elecraft products!
The willingness to go that little bit extra for their customers, thanks
Eric.
(And I'll grab a SS kit for my amplifier and my P3 when they're ready
thanks) :)
73 de
Jeff Cochrane - VK4BOF
East Innisfail
QLD, Australia
K3 #4257, P3#1629, KPA-500 #161
Errr Thanks Eric!
Mike W0MU
W0MU-1 CC Cluster w0mu.net
On 12/9/2011 6:33 PM, Eric Swartz - WA6HHQ, Elecraft wrote:
Hi Mike,
We're going to look seriously at the SS screws for all products.
We've actually been using the current black oxide steel type of screw
for the external screws
25% off coupon good until 23:59 on December 14. COUNTDOWN305
73,
Fred
Fred
fcady at ieee dot org
The Elecraft K3: Design, Configuration, and Operation
www.ke7x.com
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I think I may have solved this problem. One of the other posts mentions that
the Z-bracket screws are too long and you don't get a tight fit. I changed
the five screws from 5/16 to 3/16 and did notice a better grip between the
bracket and the PA assembly. I have run it all evening and haven't
Thank, Eric. I really like your customer service. 73 Johnny vr2xmc
Sent from my iPhone 4
Eric Swartz - WA6HHQ, Elecraft e...@elecraft.com 於 2011年12月10日 上午9:33 寫道：
Hi Mike,
We're going to look seriously at the SS screws for all products.
We've actually been using the current black oxide
On 12/9/2011 6:09 PM, Jim Brown wrote:
If it is an automatic antenna tuner, that is less of a problem.
Except that the automatic circuitry, and it's power supply must also be
isolated from ground. That part of the design problem seems non-trivial.
Seems fairly simple to me, use a
Gents, the bottom line is to remember that the Bird is a 50+ year old
instrument with 50+ year old technology (I used a Model 43 Bird servicing
radios at Lockheed while in college in the mid 1950's - the same instrument
many Hams covet today).
There is nothing magic about the Bird. It was
The Z bracket should be secure and tight against the side of the heat sink.
My KPA500 has 5/16 screws and they tighten the Z-bracket so it does not
move. More recently there have been comments that the 5/16 screws are too
long, and the length of those screws has now been reduced to 1/4 to ensure
Every engineering new grad wants to be the Design Engineer, never
knowing how complex and demanding Product Engineering can be. Nearly 50
email list posts leads to 1/16 change in screw length. I'd be amazed
and stunned, except I've seen it so many times. Count up all the parts
in your
Richard,
Not necessaryily so...the CM-500 does accentuate the lows rather nicely BUT
when sigs are down, atmospherics rise...it does help to drop the low end
response. Tweaking the highs up also helps.
IF you have near perfect hearing, flat on the RX EQ works OK so I am told by
someone
On Dec 8, 2011, at 10:51 PM, Alan Bloom wrote:
The disadvantage of putting the balun at the input is that none of the
tuner circuitry can be grounded. For example, the control shafts of the
variable capacitors have RF voltage on them, so the knobs must be
isolated.
If you have the balun
Lots of great information in this thread, but no answer for TJ yet.
is there a way to reset it to the
factory setting?
73
Bill, K4CIA
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Help:
Hello Mike,
Totally agreed and you express better than I am. Under a bulk purchase, the
provision of SS screws as a standard (not optional) would cost minimal extra
especially when compared with the high value purchase of Elecraft radios.
Whether it is giving something not really needed or
Izzat the one with the 3K DWIM!! buttons, knobs and macros?
MCHNY,
Dave, N3HE
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FWIW - I bought #4x1/4 SS black-oxide covered screws from McMaster Carr.
Price is $3.91/100. Part number 96640A054. I use them on my K3 and KPA500.
Phil - AD5X
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Hi Ed,
Thanks for letting us know about your experiences with the Elecraft Twin
firmware.
As you know, I have been testing this for a couple of months now and
have been very impressed. There are a couple of bugs on the K3 firmware
side that I am sure will be resolved soon, but this is not top
I get an occasional mild pop but not the loud pops as others report.
Mine was factory built. The noises are nothing like hearing a spider or
ant getting zapped in the old SB 220. Actually the clicks remind me the
amp is on. It's so quiet otherwise.
K9IL
May I add to Don's comment by noting that other benefits to be gained from
the use of a properly designed link coupled tuner (we used to call them
Antenna Matching Units or AMUs) are:
1) This type of tuner being a bandpass circuit helps to reduce the level of
unwanted signals reaching the
Bill,
To set everything to factory defaults, do an EEINIT. I suggest saving
your configuration first using K3Utility just in case you want to go
back to whatever you had.
73,
Don W3FPR
On 12/9/2011 5:22 AM, Bill McDowell wrote:
Lots of great information in this thread, but no answer for TJ
Any plans to place the remote rig control hardware in a K3 box? This would
allow a lot of flexibility.
Ed W3CC
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You are assuming that the choking impedance is what the transmission
line used for a winding sees; THAT is always whatever impedance the SWR
presents. The 2500 Ohm choking impedance is only seen by current on the
outside of the cable, a good deal less power (thus voltage) than what is
inside.
Wait.
Using a 100W slug, if you get a reading of 100 watts, the real power would be
between
95 and 105 watts, right?
If you get a reading of 50 watts the real power would fall in a range of less
than 45
to 55 watts?
Not if the 5% at full scale is the best accuracy. Or did I misunderstand
Meant to say:
If you get a reading of 50 watts the real power would fall in a range of less
than 47.5
to 52.5 watts?
On 12/9/2011 9:08 AM, Mike wrote:
Wait.
Using a 100W slug, if you get a reading of 100 watts, the real power would be
between
95 and 105 watts, right?
If you get a
Mike,
You read it right. A newly calibrated Bird slug (how many hams have
recently calibrated Bird wattmeters and slugs?) is specified to have an
accuracy of 5% OF FULL SCALE. So yes, a 100 watt slug can be in error
by as much as 5 watts - anywhere on the scale. A reading of 50 watts
Have most of been ordering the aux cable with the amp? I'm just trying to see
if it's worth having.
73, John N1JM
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Yes. It allows quite a bit of flexibility. If the amp is in standby
the radio can be set to 100w out. When the amp is in OPER mode the
radio will lower the power to the output of your choosing.
Mike W0MU
W0MU-1 CC Cluster w0mu.net
On 12/9/2011 7:39 AM, John_N1JM wrote:
Have most of been
The AUX cable is necessary if you want the K3 to set the proper drive level to
the KPA500 when you switch it to OPERATE and revert to 100 watts (or whatever
other power you had set) when you switch the KPA500 back to STANDBY or turn it
off. The RS-232 connection on the amp is used only for
Thanks.
I was curious if the screw kit Elecraft provides is just for cover screws.
They are working on a SS kit for the KPA 500 too.
The cost for 100 screws has shown there is no reason other than profit
not to include SS hardware with the kits from the start.
Mike W0MU
W0MU-1 CC Cluster
From what I understand, the meter is rated at 5% of the
**full scale** rating according to Bird. Full scale
rating, is the rating on the slug.
That would mean that for a meter with a 100W slug, your
accuracy is +/- 5W (5%). So, if your wattmeter is reading
50W, the actual RF power could
Hi Mitch,
I certainly have some things to learn. There really is not a lot of
detail on how the paths work but Mike from Microbit is very helpful.
What is was trying to say for logging/control with say TRX Manager is
that I can do it two ways.
First way uses my laptop COM1 and set USB to COM0
Hello,
Just received a new K3 and I can't seem to get it to transmit any of the
voice modes. I have done the following:
Upgraded firmware as instructed, Verified both VFO's are on USB or LSB,
enabled the Front Panel connector, Verified all CONFIG files. Any other
ideas to get SSB out of the
You need to turn the bias on. push the 2 button while setting the mic
for front panel.
Mike W0MU
W0MU-1 CC Cluster w0mu.net
On 12/9/2011 8:59 AM, Natan Huffman wrote:
Hello,
Just received a new K3 and I can't seem to get it to transmit any of the
voice modes. I have done the following:
The 5% accuracy of the wattmeter is not constant over the entire range from the
1st division of the scale coresponding to 1W or so to last 100W and can
variate, they say is up to 5%. Now where is the best precision hard to say but
might be in the middle range or full scale.
VE3GNO/YO3GJC
For simple receive-only SDR sw this will work as most have a
soundcard interface option, but I still see a problem controlling the
KX3 VFO, mode changing, and transmitter Keying without sw dependent
drivers for the KX3. This is definitely out of my expertise but
based on getting new hardware
I subscribe to a group dedicated to the other gold standard DX
radio. Here is a paraphrase of a query that was sent to that group
from a DX station after the CQWW. The station had radio X at the main
position, and a K3 at the multiplier position:
...all the operators complained about the signals
Thanks to all and especially Tony K2SG who knew exactly what to do.
73
Natan W6XR, C6AXR, VS6KR
On Fri, Dec 9, 2011 at 10:59 AM, Natan Huffman natan1...@gmail.com wrote:
Hello,
Just received a new K3 and I can't seem to get it to transmit any of the
voice modes. I have done the following:
Phil, a big thanks to you for this information!
I do have stainless screws in my K3, but the black coating on several of them
wasn't good from the beginning, and now 18 months later they have a
pure-stainless appearance, though the rig has never left my NJ QTH. It was
mildly bothersome as a
I have dealt with McMaster Carr for many years, and I regard them as my
premier hardware supplier. If I want only one, I will try to see if the
local Ace Hardware has it, but if I want more than 1 or two, McMaster
Carr is the go to place - certainly I may have to buy in quantities of
10 or
I've got #4 lenses in my OptiVisor. Since it is designed to wear it over my
normal reading glasses I can change the magnification by taking my reading
glasses off, but seldom do.
In addition to Hamfests, you can find Optivisors at most hobby and crafts
stores.
Ron AC7AC
-Original
OptiVisors also restrict peripheral vision. Keep that in mine while
reaching for the hot soldering iron. I had to interrupt work on a kit
for a trip to the emergency room! I thought that I knew just where to
reach. I was a little off.
73,
Rick K7MW
On Dec 9, 2011, at 10:07 AM, Ron
Check Magnifier.com for their HVM-5L lighted magnifier. It comes with a
set of 4 interchangeable lenses giving 1.2X, 1.8X, 2.5X and 3.5X
magnifications. The lenses clip into the headband. No peripheral
vision restrictions. Does not have a knob-adjustable headband, but the
slide-clamp
If I had a problem with the screws rusting, I would be replacing mine with
this.
http://www.fastener-express.com/button-socket-screws-black-anodized-aluminum.aspx
Ed K7WIA
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They also have them in flat head
http://www.fastener-express.com/flat-screws-black-anodized-aluminum.aspx
Ed K7WIA
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On Fri, Dec 9, 2011 at 12:35 PM, K7WIA emoss98...@msn.com wrote:
If I had a problem with the screws rusting, I would be replacing mine with
this.
http://www.fastener-express.com/button-socket-screws-black-anodized-aluminum.aspx
They are neat-looking, but don't tighten 'em too much.
This is what I know at this point. Based on comments on this board and
private emails, this is a common issue, I would think a good many
people that don't think they have the issue just don't hear it due to
hearing loss or head phone use. It happens with both factory made and
kits.
I tried to
Is there a way to prevent access to the Config Menus by a guest operator?
[Handy for Field Day, visiting relatives etc]
Eric
VA7DZ
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When I first went to operate from T70A, during the last year CQ WW CW, the
T70A club members were all eager to see K3. The first thing they observed
was rusty screws, so it was not easy to convince some of them that K3 is not
a toy, but real contest machine
Another thing that I would
I did mention that in an earlier email. If you look at the
Bird 43 meter, the scale is not linear. There is scale
compression at either end. To get the most readibility,
one would want a slug that would place the expected
meassurement in the center of the meter...
73
Gene K1NR
On Fri, 9
FWIW: I built my K2 and KX1 using a 1 lb roll of 63/37 0.015 solder
I've had for a hundred years. I never had feed-rate problems, and was
able to very finely control how much solder went into the holes.
There's still about 1/3 lb of solder on the roll.
My wife bought me a magnifying lamp
Easier to read because the K3 does not add an extra layer of obscuring mush
from intermodulation products, as does, for instance, my FT1000MP. BUT it
now makes it possible to hear previously unknown unavoidable effects of
many signals right at the noise. Sometimes things are more peaceful if you
I am new to the K3 (about two weeks now) and it is such a sensitive and
selective rig compared to my FT950 that I am constantly adjusting volume
because DX comes in at levels I would not hear with the 950 especially since i
can adjust NB and DSP so much more effectively, and then I get blasted
I have been a satisfied customer of a place called the Bolt Depot. As a
matter of fact I restored my car using them as a primary source for almost
all of the hardware. For example, they have 3/16 4-40 machine screws in
stainless for five cents each with no minimum order. They carry a vast
All -
I am a new K3 owner and I just noticed that my K3 needs to connect both the 6m
preamp and my Quadra amplifier to the ACC port on the K3. Does anyone know of a
device or cable that would allow me to bridge across multiple external devices.
Any assistance would be much appreciated.
On 11/7/2011 5:16 PM, gold...@charter.net wrote:
Why not go to the confurgation menue and change the filter setting from
13 to 6 khz. I bet it will work.
That's what you need to do to use the FM filter on AM - lie to the K3.
I dont have the filter so I can not check it out.
I am not sure
Disregard email. I found the proper connector.
Sorry to bother everyone.
Keith
AG6AZ
Sent from my iPhone please excuse typos
On Dec 9, 2011, at 12:54 PM, Keith Heimbold ag...@hotmail.com wrote:
All -
I am a new K3 owner and I just noticed that my K3 needs to connect both the
6m preamp
Check the reflector archives. This has been discussed many* times.
The simple solution is an all 15 Y-cable:
www.cablewholesale.com p/n 10H1-27708
It's still listed for $3.44 in single quantity with a notation in
stock - Usually ships same day
73,
... Joe, W4TV
On 12/9/2011 3:54
Please disregard question. Sorry for inconvenience.
Thanks,
Keith
AG6AZ
Sent from my iPhone please excuse typos
On Dec 9, 2011, at 1:23 PM, Joe Subich, W4TV li...@subich.com wrote:
Check the reflector archives. This has been discussed many* times.
The simple solution is an all 15
PSK-31 users. Here's one for your notebook. It may save you some consternation.
It had been a few months since I used HRD/DM780 to run PSK31 in DATA A mode on
my K3.
Everything seemed to be working fine except I had no output. I checked
EVERYTHING, even re-read the manual. PSK31-D worked with
I'd like some help from K3 folks using a CM500 headset with setting the RECEIVE
Eq.
How can I use this to an advantage?
Thanks,
Richard Fjeld, n0ce
rpfj...@embarqmail.com
E=IR, it's the law.
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This is a new (but not my first k3). It has the KPA3,
KAT3, KRX3, KXV3A and P3. I have 2 antennas connected to the KAT3. Ant1 is a
beam, Ant2 is an 88’ long dipole fed with ladder line to an Elecraft 4:1 balun
then with coax to the rig. The KAT3 normally tunes it 1:1 on 80/40/30/20, which
are the
I'm hoping someone else has experienced this, because it's too weird for me
to figure out.
When I QSY to 17m phone and begin to speak into the mic, I get very low
output power. The only way I can get to full output is to switch to CW and
begin transmitting, during which I see the output power
John: is that K1 still available? If so, what firmware version does it have?
72, Jim Rodenkirch, K9JWV
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I have a schurr profi-2 (duel paddle) key new in the box has never been used
that I would like to sell for $250.00 if anyone is interested please call me at
801 796-8211 TNX Dave AD7IJ
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I wanted to add the importance of flexibility not for just a group
situation but when just one person is involved. I have been blessed to
be able to travel a lot and taking a K3 or future K3/0 can be a real
hassle sometimes even in the USA to say nothing to some countries. If
you have ever had
- Original Message -
From: elecraft-requ...@mailman.qth.net
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Tuesday, November 29, 2011 12:00:33 PM
Subject: Elecraft Digest, Vol 91, Issue 40
Send Elecraft mailing list submissions to
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I Just started assembling my KPA500 serial number 0585 this evening. All was
going OK until I got to the point where I mount the Z-bracket to the PA/LPF
heat sink. The book sez to use 4-40 5/16 black flat head screws. Using this
size screw does NOT pull the Z-bracket tight against the heat
Can you at Elecraft not make a program that you could send out that
would clone the K3 radio programming so that the user could send it back
to Elecraft for examination for errors and or possible a program update
to rectify the up coming complaints that could give it bad name.
I can attest to what Vic says. I have an 88-foot long doublet, hung about 45
feet up, fed with 85 feet of 600-ohm ladder line. At the shack end I have a 1:1
balun, and then about six feet of RG/8X running to the K3. The K3's tuner likes
the combination. I tried replacing the 1:1 balun with a
Re KX3, Is anyone working on APPS, like for the Apple iPad and iPhone?
Allen Patterson, KC7SYR
Sent from my iPad
On Nov 4, 2011, at 9:00 AM, elecraft-requ...@mailman.qth.net wrote:
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