Thanks for the replies. I have it working without the ALC. I am a little
surprised at the drive level for CW -- around 20 watts will produce 500; the
manual suggests more. I did a trapezoid test with the scope and the amp
looks very linear. Also no observable crossover distortion on my 150 mHz
I do have a properly wired Rs232 to KIO2 adapter cable which I have been
using for K2 to computer comms. What I want is to use this with a splitter
cable so all three - computer, KAT100, and K2 can each do their thing
together without conflict. All three will be talkers and listeners, but I
expect
Chip,
Look at that cable with different eyes only the pin 2 and pin 3
connections carry RS-232 signals - Oh yes, pin 5 is also RS-232 Signal
Ground.
All other pins are internal K2 signals which are used between the K2 and
the KPA100, KAT100, KRC2 and/or the XV series transverters. By design,
Don,
You are right, again. I popped the top and the 13k FM filter is in the F1
spot.
I tried the K3-EZ and each time I ask to populate it come out with different
readings and once in a while the F1 block was filled with 13k.
Per jack Berry's suggestion, I used the K3 utility and all filters
Ok guys, got it now. I shouldn't be such a lazy thinker, ie RTFM. Thanks.
Chip
On Wednesday, August 8, 2012, Don Wilhelm wrote:
Chip,
Look at that cable with different eyes only the pin 2 and pin 3
connections carry RS-232 signals - Oh yes, pin 5 is also RS-232 Signal
Ground.
All other
I own K3 #2907 which I assembled myself in Floyd VA while visiting my friends
KK4WW and KK4WWW in 2009. It didin't take long to make the radio work. It still
works perfectly since, although has been taken to several expeditions including
mountain tops. The only failure were the concentric knobs
Send an email to pa...@elecraft.com and they will send you the knobs at no
charge.
On 8/8/2012 5:53 AM, Vic Goncharsky wrote:
I own K3 #2907 which I assembled myself in Floyd VA while visiting my friends
KK4WW and
KK4WWW in 2009. It didin't take long to make the radio work. It still works
Suggestion: Make a request for the two concentric knob replacements to
sa...@elecraft.com. They are off the shelf and may ship the same day.
Matt Zilmer, W6NIA
Si fractum non sit, noli id reficere
-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
Vic,
Just send an email to pa...@elecraft.com and request the replacement
knobs. They are a no-cost item to you.
73,
Don W3FPR
On 8/8/2012 8:53 AM, Vic Goncharsky wrote:
Anyway I wonder how can I get the knobs, I don't care about color, even red
ones made of good plastic will do the job
Please note that all K3 knobs are warrantied for the life of the radio.
We will replace them immediately if they break.
While most K3s never have seen knob breakage, we have seen it on -way-
too many radios. We were not happy with this. We went through several
evolutions on the concentric
My situation is this, single income family with 4 kids. I have to save
for anything I want. I just got my ticket in June. I am currently not
on the air, but saving for a 2m mobile to get me started.
Realistically I can only save for one HF xcvr. I chose Elecraft based
on lurking on this reflector
I can not find the k3-ez program. I found that the link to k3-ez is broken
or expired. Would you please post a copy of the k3-ez program.
Thanks,
John Lally
W7JJL
--
View this message in context:
http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/KX3-K3-EZ-and-the-KX-3-tp7560550p7560619.html
Sent from
I hesitate to join this discussion but it seems inevitable that the more K3 are
around, the greater chance the odd one has a problem .
Can only speak from my own experience - I have two - assembled both. The older
one (#228) has about 100,000 Qs on the clock and has been to and from Africa in
Knobs has been ordered. Thanks folks.
73 Vic US5WE/K1WE (UW5W in VHF contests) KN29AU
UARL VHF committee
Chairman, UARL Lvov Branch LKK
Moderator, UARL VHF portal http://www.vhfdx.at.ua
DXCC card checker in Ukraine
__
Elecraft
You're going to get twice as many replies as there are people lurking on
this list, Lee. :-) In the end, the decision is yours but you can base
it on experience of others. Mine:
I have a KX1, K2/10, and K3/KPA500/P3. I built my K2, S/N 4398, perhaps
5 or 6 years ago, with the ATU. I bought
The K2 is all the radio the average CW op needs. The problem then
becomes what's average? If $$ is tight (been there, done that) and
you may want to migrate to SSB, then my suggestion is save your money up
for a K3, the current Queen of the Elecraft Fleet. The wait will be
worth it. In
For anyone interested in Fred Cady's excellent K3 book, Lulu is offering
a 20% order-level discount on any order until August 10. (Promo Code:
ASTOUND)
See:
http://www.lulu.com
Fred's book:
http://www.lulu.com/shop/search.ep?type=keyWords=elecraft+k3x=9y=12sitesearch=lulu.comq=
73,
Lee,
I would pick up a beginners HF rig from an old ham in the neighborhood for
cheap and save up for the K3.
Look around and find a couple Elmers where you live and see what they can help
you put a system together. Hang dipole and have some fun. A QRP rig could be a
nice option but
Correction: hacker 'attack', not 'attach' :-)
Eric
---
www.elecraft.com
On 8/8/2012 11:38 AM, Eric Swartz - WA6HHQ, Elecraft wrote:
If you sent a parts request to pa...@elecraft.com between last Sunday,
aug 5th, and 8:30 this morning, you should resend the request. (Note
in the email that
Lee,
I don't have a K2, but when I decided to buy a K3, it seemed that by the time I
added all of the extras on the K2 to make it contain all of the features of a
K3, there wasn't much difference in price. I bought my K3 kit with only one
option, a 400Hz filter. The price at that time was
Bad news / good news.
First the bad - while waiting for my KX3 I sold my other radios and
bought a K3/100 and P3 which I just love - have been trying for the
last 4 weeks to check in on Sunday but noise level here just too high!
(sigh) and bad timing for me for the CW net - will keep trying.
Good
If you sent a parts request to pa...@elecraft.com between last Sunday,
aug 5th, and 8:30 this morning, you should resend the request. (Note in
the email that it is a 'resend' to avoid double parts shipments). This
is true even if you received an automated reply. (If you subsequently
had
This was posted previous on the group, the link expires on the 12th;
Virus clean checked by Adobe
https://sendnow.acrobat.com/?i=qAFoM1LObVfxMZy8giSJaA
https://sendnow.acrobat.com/?i=5w962pPP1Spjz4O*39aluw
If you run win7 (the link is for xp) then do this;
1. Check whether you have turned
Lee,
I'm with Keith's immediate solution. Waiting a year or two to get on the
HF is a long time. There are plenty of seasoned hams with HF gear
collecting dust that'll get you on the HF bands. In my area it is not
uncommon to get a loaner HF rig or one at a very reasonable price.
You'll be On
Lee
I agree with Fred Jensen. The K2 was all the radio I ever needed. The
operative word is needed. The K2 has served me well. I was licensed in
2009 and got my HF privileges in 2010. Since 2010, I have bought a TS830S used
from a Canadian Missionary radio amateur an FT897 and got 2/3
I agree with Keith's comments, but I'll contribute my two cents' as well.
My background, such as it is -- I got my ticket about 20 months ago,
spent 4 months just on 2 meters, and got my K3 a year after I got on
HF.
That experience leads me to point out four things:
1. Used rigs are widely
Rather than a traditional G5RV antenna, you might want to look at a ZS6BKW,
which is an updated version of the G5RV optimised using computer modelling
techniques that were not available when the G5RV was first designed:
http://www.nonstopsystems.com/radio/ZS6BKW.pdf
73, Matt VK2ACL
On
Hi Dale,
Sure about the code? I get:
The code you entered is not valid
Tried both upper and lower case. Seems like a dud to me.
73, Thomas M0TRN
On 8 August 2012 18:58, Dale Boresz d...@lightstream.net wrote:
For anyone interested in Fred Cady's excellent K3 book, Lulu is offering
a 20%
Are there updates to Fred's book? If so, how does one get them?
73, Dick WO1I
At 04:40 PM 8/8/2012, Thomas Horsten wrote:
Hi Dale,
Sure about the code? I get:
The code you entered is not valid
Tried both upper and lower case. Seems like a dud to me.
73, Thomas M0TRN
On 8 August 2012 18:58,
Hi folks,
Not a deep question, but one I have been mulling over none-the-less:
I have not seen a K3 in person, only on YouTube. No Elecrafts that I know of
on the island I live on.
On the YouTube videos, some show a yellow K3 display; some show an orange
display.
What factors are
I'm sure it is partially the result of differences in the color
processing of the cameras, but as one turns up the display brightness,
the more yellow the display looks.
You'll also find that the K3 is more attractive in person than in
photos, especially after you hear how well the receiver
Why not a KX3? Buy first the simple version, get on the air sooner, and then
add to it little by little. If you decide to sell later you will have 100s of
buyers! It is not a K3 but it is budget~friendly. .
Enviado desde mi oficina móvil BlackBerry® de Telcel
-Original Message-
From:
It does not change color. The color is Amber. What does change is the
brightness.
I think that is why the videos you see appear to have different colors.
73,
Don W3FPR
On 8/8/2012 4:49 PM, Jim Hooper wrote:
Hi folks,
Not a deep question, but one I have been mulling over none-the-less:
I
They're up and running. Plan is to be there through the 20th. Using 3 K3s
and 1 K2. http://www.d64k.net/plans/
Tony KT0NY
--
http://www.isb.edu/faculty/facultydir.aspx?ddlFaculty=352
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Elecraft mailing list
Home:
Hello Thomas,
I already have the book so I haven't tried this, but according to the ad
on their home page at http://www.lulu.com (scroll down just a little bit
and look in the left column), the code is: ASTOUND but they note that
the code is case-sensitive.
73, Dale
WA8SRA
On 8/8/2012 4:40
Thomas,
I just tried the promo code and it works here. It showed a $7 discount
for a total price of $28.
73, Dale
WA8SRA
On 8/8/2012 4:40 PM, Thomas Horsten wrote:
Hi Dale,
Sure about the code? I get:
The code you entered is not valid
Tried both upper and lower case. Seems like a dud to
If the image of the K3 is overexposed the display will look yellow if exposed
correctly it will be amber, or as some say orange.
Amateur Radio Operator N5GE
ARRL Lifetime Member
QCWA Lifetime Member
On Wed, 8 Aug 2012 13:49:58 -0700, Jim Hooper jkhoo...@rockisland.com wrote:
Hi folks,
Not a
Hi Dale,
Got it to work. Apparently it detected my location and sent me to the UK
shop (even though the URL was unchanged, where the code didn't work. After
manually clicking change store in the bottom and choosing the US one, I
was able to apply the code and complete the purchase (shipping to UK
What a coincidence. Today, I have K3 #263 on my bench for a spot of
updating. I noticed that my own K3, #1122, looked yellow, while #263 looked
orange. So, I wasted an hour going through all the brightness levels and
the display contrast levels. I couldn't make #1122 look orange and I
couldn't
I just bought the book and the code worked fine for me all upper case.
73,
Fred/N0AZZ
-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Thomas Horsten
Sent: Wednesday, August 08, 2012 3:40 PM
To: Dale Boresz
Cc:
Hi Dick,
I have not made any updates to the book other than what is on the
ke7x.com web site.
I'm pondering a 2nd edition that would include the KPA500 and KAT500.
Other than that, there haven't been any substantial changes in the K3
world. Well, maybe the P3 SVGA.
Also pondering a KX3 tome but
I have a broken K2 that needs some spare parts. Based on the link on the web
site, I sent a message to pa...@elecraft.com on August 3rd, but I have yet to
receive a reply e-mail.
Here are the parts needed for the KPA100:
Elecraft Part # Designator Description
E600029
That's it Bill, but note that Eric reported today that Elecraft's mail
servers suffered an attack. It's been defeated, Eric said, but some mail was
mis-directed. Send your order again (or call the factory). If you send the
order again by e-mail, be sure to say it's a repeat message so you won't
Hi there,
I recently purchased a slightly used KX1.
Went to use it in the field last week, and as I was popping in
batteries to the internal pack, the red wire broke at the point at
which it it is soldered to the little whit clip that connects to the
transceiver.
Can I easily replace the
Hi Bill - email pa...@elecraft.com again. As noted in my earlier list
email, your email may have been caught by the attempted hacking of our
mail server this last weekend.
Mention you would like a response to confirm that all is in process.
73,
Eric
---
www.elecraft.com
On 8/8/2012 4:31 PM,
A friend asked me to install the antenna tuner and paddle options on his new
KX3 and I jumped at the chance to play with one...after installing the
tuner/paddle, of course. As a disclaimer, I have 3 K3s and a K2 of my own
so I'm definitely a long time Elecraft cool-aid drinker but this KX3 was
Why an 8 pole filter
OR
Why a 5 pole filter?
Yeah I know the 5 poles are cheaper... but other than that.
Phil
Santa Fe
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Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help:
Phil,
Go to this link on the Elecraft website:
http://www.elecraft.com/K3/Roofing_Filters.htm
And this link:
http://www.elecraft.com/K3/K3_filter_plots.htm
Dave, N4QS
- Original Message -
From: Phil Townsend phi...@mac.com
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Wednesday, August 08,
Those 8-pole filters have steeper skirts. Either the 5- or 8-pole
work quite well.
I use 5-pole for the narrower filters (250, 500), and the 8-pole for
1.8, 2.8, 13 KHz bandwidths.
73,
matt W6NIA
K3 #24
On Wed, 08 Aug 2012 19:12:58 -0600, you wrote:
Why an 8 pole filter
OR
Why a 5 pole
One reason I experience is that UHF connectors are not available for all
types of coaxial cable. Case in point, UHF connectors are no longer
available for some sizes of Andrew (now Commscope) Heliax however type-N or
BNC are for those sizes. So it's not always a bandwidth, loss, or impedance
Hello,
I would like some suggestions regarding getting a K2, or not.
I am new to Ham radio and just built a K1. So, as far as CW is concerned, I am
all set.
I also just built the 4-band module, and have the components to turn my other
board into an 80/17m.
So, getting a K2 for me would
Gil -
I am sure you will get other replies, but here's my 2-cents worth: I
have owned a K2 since about 2005, and while it is not my primary rig, I
have used it enough to get a good feel for how it stacks up when using
SSB. I use a Kenwood MC-43 hand microphone with the K2. I have also
My thought on the 5 pole was that it would give you some protection but because
the skirts were not as steep you could hear someone calling you off frequency
better. They would be down but not out. The 5's have slightly less insertion
loss and are cheaper. On the other hand they need an offset
Lee...
Welcome to the hobby and to Elecraft. Several years ago I assembled K2 #
5957 and immediately added the SSB, noise blanker, DSP and 100W modules.
This past spring I put together K3 #6232 with the 100W module and three
additional filters. I chase DX, operate contests [casually], and rag
Here's the string: MacBook Pro, OS X 10.7 Lion, Fldigi 3.21.50, Griffin
iMic, K3 VOX. The same string and K3 settings work with CocoaModem, but
Fldigi won't trigger the VOX. I get a PortAudio Error: Internal PortAudio
error message. I disconnected the iMic and configured Fldigi for the Mac's
Hello Robert,
I really like your idea of getting a K2 from the used market. For a new
purchase, after taking into account the options, K3 seems more value for money.
Perhaps, I was a K2 builder in the past. I have no worry about buying an used
K2. Due to its kit nature, problems (if any)
Good point. It would depend upon whether or not you'd want to hear
someone so far from zero beat.
73,
matt
On Wed, 08 Aug 2012 23:38:06 -0400, you wrote:
My thought on the 5 pole was that it would give you some protection but
because the skirts were not as steep you could hear someone
Lee, the answer is neither-yet. You will get a lot of advice on this. Here's
mine.
Buy my Ten-Tec Scout 555 for a low price and get on the air immediately with
good QSK and 50w. Then save for the K3, buying the base model and building on
it as you can afford it.
The K2 is a fine rig, I
G'day Eric
When I assembled my K3, #5234 (with improved knobs) the problem with
the concentric knobs was not breakage but taper in the bores of the
knobs, 7 thou larger on the outer end to the other if I remember
correctly, this had the effect of throwing the outer (operator) end of
the knob
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