Okay, I have gone through all the filters and adjusted them using a
noise source and spectrogram. The carrier showing up on PTT in USB or
LSB has disappeared but I think this went away with installing the top
cover.
I still have problems with the audio. I set the dial frequency to
14200.0
My KAT500 is always on. It is forever on. It is on, and on, and on. Almost
never is it off. The only time it is off is when I am out for some extended
time period (more than 24 hours) and I throw the master switch that turns
everything off. Other than that, the KAT500 with its cute little g
To Ed and all the others who responded to my query.
I weighed all your ideas and bought a Weller WESD51. Nice unit and does have
var temp.
So far works well.
Sent from my iPhone
...nr4c. bill
> On Jun 6, 2014, at 3:48 PM, Edward R Cole wrote:
>
> I used several Weller solder stations thr
Some place back in time I was told to turn the KAT500 on first, followed
by the KAT500, and then the K3. I still do it this way and have never
had any problems getting things to play well together after initial
turn-on. Unlikely that I would want to change from something that works.
Bill W2BLC
Thanks, Fred. Good to know. I just leave my KAT500 on.
Phil
On 6/6/14, 4:18 PM, Cady, Fred wrote:
That still may be the case, and it sure is for the KRC2, but there seems to be
enough delay in the K3 reading the AUXBUS line that turning them on at the same
time works OK for me.
-Origina
That still may be the case, and it sure is for the KRC2, but there seems to be
enough delay in the K3 reading the AUXBUS line that turning them on at the same
time works OK for me.
-Original Message-
From: Phil Wheeler [mailto:w...@socal.rr.com]
Sent: Friday, June 06, 2014 5:16 PM
To:
Hmm .. I thought I read that the KAT500 must be
turned on before the K3. Is that old info?
Phil W7OX
On 6/6/14, 4:05 PM, Cady, Fred wrote:
Don's suggestion of a 12 v relay is a good one but if you don't want to go that
route, the rigrunner power pole distribution box with auto outlet turn on
Don's suggestion of a 12 v relay is a good one but if you don't want to go that
route, the rigrunner power pole distribution box with auto outlet turn on
(http://www.westmountainradio.com/rigrunner.php) works well. When you turn on
the K3 it can turn on 10 other items. I use it to turn on the
George,
Yes, the current from the K3 12V output is limited to 500 ma. for older
K3s and 1 amp in later K3s. Older K3s can be upgraded with the Elecraft
kit to provide 1 Amp capability.
The KAT500 spec maximum draw is determined by how many relays are being
activated by any particular antenn
Bob, Bryan,Thank you for response.
Runs normally until I select a spot which should send the info to the K3. I
can see updated spots in the spot window. Selecting a spot disables the radio
interface. Although it resumes indicating incoming spots. FRUSTRATING. I
believe it is independent of the
Lenny,
I would not think a capacitor across the key would make much
difference. There are other choices - read on.
First of all determine whether the keyclicks are caused by
RF-in-the-shack or not (so you do not go chasing the wrong gremlin).
Operate the K2 (and any amplifiers you may have b
Only if you have the attenuator terminated properly!
On 6/6/2014 2:57 PM, Harlan wrote:
It must be my old age setting in but I can't get my head on right.
I have an AT1 attenuator I just finished assembling. My understanding of dB
attenuation must be off.
If I use an input of 1 volt, shouldn
Ok all.. The 50 ohm load must be it. I was using a Fluke 5520A calibrator
and a Fluke 8508A Reference Multimeter to read the output WITHOUT a load
Been a long day.
Thanks to all
Harlan
NC3C
Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE DROID
Ralf Wilhelm wrote:
>Harlan,
>
>You should get
Harlan,
You should get 0.1 volts when you terminate your attentuator with 50 Ohms - are
you probably using a high z voltmeter? The output of the attentuator can be
seen as a 0.2 V voltage source with 50 ohms internal resistance - if you
terminate it with a 50 ohms load, the 0.2 volts are divide
that is the equation I'm using to figure what I "should" be getting out... But
that's NOT what I'm getting. And, the reading im getting agree with the value
of the resistors used in the voltage divider.
Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE DROID
David Sanders W4DES wrote:
>dB = 20 * Log (Vout
dB = 20 * Log (Vout / Vin)
73, David W4DES
On Jun 6, 2014, at 4:21 PM, hsherr...@reagan.com wrote:
> I received an off list responce that said my thinking was ok
>
> OK. Then why am I getting 0.2 volts out?
> And with 1dB selected, I should be getting 0.8928.but I get 0.9936 with
I received an off list responce that said my thinking was ok
OK. Then why am I getting 0.2 volts out?
And with 1dB selected, I should be getting 0.8928.but I get 0.9936 with
either 1dB switch selected. YET, all of the resistors are installed
correctly and the suggested resistance
My understanding is the KAT500 will overcurrent the K3 Aux DC output.
The KAT500 specification is 1.5A max (200 mA typ) from my IB (page 2 Rev B3
Nov 20, 2012. The 200 mA should be ok but the 1.5A is greater than the K3 1
amp mod is rated for.
I power my KAT500 from my station power supply. Th
I used several Weller solder stations thru the years. I just retired
to the garage, a model WCC for which I can no longer find tips. I
had one tip about 1/4 to 3/8 inch wide chisel point that was great
for very heavy soldering of large metal objects (actually too much
for a PL-259). Lost it
I had the same problem with another item.
Go to the local UPS office. Ask to speak to a supervisor. Explain what
happened. They have very specific location device/software that uses
Google Maps. In my case the driver actually left it next door, about
100 yards at my neighbor's house and the
This was so helpful, mere words can't describe!
Thanks Eric.
'73. Brian.
Sent from my iPad
> On 6 Jun 2014, at 05:41, Eric Ross wrote:
>
> I did a photo log of my assembly of the K3 (S/N 8312) this last month. I
> sure enjoyed the build.
>
> https://www.flickr.com/photos/125220397@N06/se
It must be my old age setting in but I can't get my head on right.
I have an AT1 attenuator I just finished assembling. My understanding of dB
attenuation must be off.
If I use an input of 1 volt, shouldn't I expect 0.1 volt out if I have selected
20 dB attenuation?
Harlan
NC3C
Sent from my
The case is clearly not sealed. Notice the gaps on all four sides of the
panel insert. Is it enough? Maybe...
Of course, the user should keep the entire case in the shade, too.
73, Tony K4QE
On Fri, Jun 6, 2014 at 12:30 PM, Howard Hoyt wrote:
> Hi Ken, list,
>
> I've done some pretty serio
http://www.elecraft.com/order_form_parts.htm#K3%20Parts, then look
about 20% down from the top of the page.
73,
matt W6NIA
On Fri, 6 Jun 2014 17:04:11 +, you wrote:
>I remember reading somewhere that there is a mod for the K3 that boosts
>the current capability of the RCA power port, and tha
I remember reading somewhere that there is a mod for the K3 that boosts
the current capability of the RCA power port, and that without it running
anything more than the P3 or the PR6-10, but not both, would be dicey.
Might want to check if the K3 in question has the mod.
Ted, KN1CBR
>
>73, Mike
> I wonder if there is a way to use KX3 to remote control K3 just as you can
> remote control K3 with another K3 or K3/0.
> Hiroki AH6CY
>
>
> Sent from my iPhone
__
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Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/el
I suspect very strongly that UPS delivered your package to the wrong
address. This has happened to me at least 3 times in the past 5 years with
our local UPS. I would notify UPS and Elecraft. The last misdelivery by UPS
to me was just a few months ago. I sent my KX-3 back to Elecraft for
diagnosis
Hi Ken, list,
I've done some pretty serious thermal studies of the KX3
(http://proaudioeng.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/03/PAE-Kx31-chart1.jpg). I looked that
the "Go Box" concept a while ago and agree; The problem with the idea is that
the KX3 uses the case back for all it's PA heatsinking.
Apparently I can't type this morning without more coffee... sorry for the
repeat, I didn't catch the typos...
Wouldn't it be of higher concern to keep (greatly reduce) the RF coming back
into the shack first? That would eliminate the need for bypassing the key and
may help with your click iss
Wouldn't it be of higher concern to keep (greatly reduce) the RF out of the
shack first? That would eliminate the need for bypassing the key and may help
with your click issue.
What happens with lower power? It there is no click and the key operates
normally, that's a HUGE hint you need bette
On 6/6/2014 9:09 AM, w2bvh wrote:
Three turns on the keying wire (mini zip cord) through a split bead
fixed it, but I'm getting on air comments about key clicks. I'm going
to switch to RG174 on the key and intend to add 1 - 10 nF across the
key terminals, if its not harmful to the K2.
NEVE
From: Howard K2HK
Date: June 6, 2014 at 1:30:27 PM
Subject:( K3)Can't interface Dx4win to K3
No response from Dx4win reflector so trying K3 reflector again. K3 does not
change frequency when using Dx4win 8.05. Simply times out when a spot is
selected. It had been working w/o problem.
My set
On my K2 Is it ok to put a 1 - 10 nF bypass cap across my straight key?
I've got a 6M KW amp and evidently rf was getting into the key line at
power levels over ~350 W and keeping the system keyed all the time.
Three turns on the keying wire (mini zip cord) through a split bead
fixed it, but
I'd also notify Elecraft. They may have more leverage with UPS than you do.
UPS will probably put you on a list of customers who have to sign for
everything. If so you can sign up for a MyUPS account and override it.
73, Mike NF4L
On Jun 6, 2014, at 8:34 AM, Eugene Worth wrote:
> Folks, I ha
I received the boxes on Thursday and started Friday evening. I was on
the air on Sunday. As you noticed, I had several of the upgrades
installed. The basic turn on was done on Saturday. I probably spent
about 15 hours total but I went real slow to make sure I didn't screw
something up.
Eric
wb
I power my P3 and PR6-10 from the RCA jack on the P3, using an RCA splitter. If
the K3 can supply enough current for your needs, add one more splitter and run
all three from there.
73, Mike NF4L
On Jun 6, 2014, at 7:38 AM, Slava Baytalskiy wrote:
> Oh, and one question:
> what do people do wi
On Jun 6, 2014, at 4:33 AM, Stewart Bryant wrote:
> My understanding is that the KX3 is worse than the K3 on TX
> phase noise sidebands. Is that what you would expect?
No. Both have very, very low transmitted phase noise.
73,
Wayne
N6KR
How about heat dissipation if the intent is to operate the radio in the box
and encased in foam?
73
Ken - K0PP
On Jun 6, 2014 5:50 AM, "Jeff Herr" wrote:
>
> Saw this on http://www.amateurradio.com/
>
>
> http://www.oe2atn.at/tom/gobox/
>
> __
Saw this on http://www.amateurradio.com/
http://www.oe2atn.at/tom/gobox/
__
Elecraft mailing list
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Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
This
Folks, I have a problem. I volunteered to build a K1 for a gentleman who’s
hands are just too trembly to do it himself. I’ve been tracking the order from
CA to my home QTH. It was supposed to arrive last night.
UPS generally doesn’t visit me until late in the evening, certainly after 6PM
most o
Hi Eric,
Nice log of the build, thanks for sharing!
--
Thanks and 73's,
For equipment, and software setups and reviews see:
www.nk7z.net
for MixW support see;
http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/mixw/info
for Dopplergram information see:
http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/dopplergram/info
for MM-SS
Hi Sal,
The KPA500 is a pretty easy kit but you have to take time to carefully
inventory the screws.
Here's a tip. Look at figure 40 on page 28 of the assembly manual. I suspect
it would be easier to bend the gray wire prior to mounting the connector in
the chassis. Access is tight in its final
Oh, and one question:
what do people do with all these power cables?
So K3 has one RCA 1A power outlet on the back, right? And i'm using that for
the P3.
Now i need one for the KAT500 and one for the W2.
W2 came with a pre-made cable that is meant to go into the K3 (taken by the P3).
So i'm guessi
On 02/04/2014 16:19, Wayne Burdick wrote:
The K3 and KX3 both have very low phase noise. It can vary a bit from band to
band and from one unit to the next. Sherwood measured one example of each, but
typically both measure right around -140 dBc/Hz at 20 kHz.
When we designed the K3, we were try
Hi everyone!
Finally assembled the KAT500 last night.
I never thought i would have this much difficulty with the tuner as opposed to
K3/P3.
Those SO-239 lugs are tricky! Especially the XMTR one. I actually ended up
using a black screw instead of the zinc one 'cause it just wouldn't fit.
Hoping th
Jim - Figure 9 shows a space between P3 and J4 and my K3EXREF
installation looks exactly like that. They do not fully mate. Without
opening my K3 to check, I do not recall the 1/4-inch spacer being loose.
73 de David G4DMP
In a recent message, Jim Spears writes
Should the K3EXREF pins insert
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