On 10/31/2014 4:27 PM, LA7NO wrote:
Thanks for the info.
Unfortunately, I do not have the KXV3 option.
So you need to add it. :) Easy to do -- just order it.
73, Jim K9YC
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On 10/31/2014 9:19 AM, Phil Hystad wrote:
But, if you are wanting to do weak signal work with CW, SSB, etc. then the 2M
option is a very good cost item and worth the small increment of $.
Yes, IF you can find a good amp that drives with the 3W or so that the
2M transverter produces. There
All the TE Systems amps I have that are rated for ten watts input will
develop full, or very close to full rated power output with 3 watts drive.
73, Charlie k3ICH
- Original Message -
From: Jim Brown j...@audiosystemsgroup.com
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Saturday, November
Jim -- Definitely agree on the need for an amp with KX3 2-meter. I have
posted, more than once, my Elecraft wish list item of a nice 2-meter amp. It
just seems like something that would be easy for them to throw together.
Otherwise, there are a few 2-meter amps I have been looking at but so
I've been using an AFEDRI SDR as a panadapter for my K3 for about a year
now using HDSDR. I use it every day but when I powered things up
yesterday, the panadapter connection has suddenly experienced a lot of
attenuation. I don't know at this point if the issue is in the K3 IF
output or the
I should have mentioned that the K3's receive level is normal. Preamp is
off and attenuator is off. S-meter levels on the K3 receiver are normal.
The problem I'm seeing is only in the IF connection.
Dave
K8JDC
On Sat, Nov 1, 2014 at 10:30 AM, Dave C k8j...@gmail.com wrote:
I've been using an
One could always buy a Mitsubishi brick and put it in a case. RF parts or
eBay:
eBay item number:121444258503
$45 for a 30W out module fully assembled. Or $58 for 60W out. 50mW drive.
Add an LPF, bypass switching and you are done.
Normally set up for FM, they can be run linear by adjusting
Another option for a tad more power is to roll you own. W6PQL had an article
in the May 2013 issue of QST for building an 80 watt out all mode 2 meter amp:
http://www.w6pql.com/2_meter_80w_all_mode_amplifier.htm
He has a ton of other home brew projects on his web site. I built that amp this
I'm downsizing since retirement earlier this year, will be on the road with the
travel trailer. These item need a new home instead of sitting packed away. I
have my KX3, PX3 along with the KXPA 100, it all fits nicely in the trailer.
The K2, s/n 6576, was built in late 2011 by Dale Putnam WC7S,
I just purchased the entire K line. I have the K3, P3 and KAT500 working
just fine. I cannot get any power through the KPA500. It switches bands and
it appears to be okay. But when I push the foot switch on my K3, the K3
transmits but the KPA500 is not producing any power or SWR. I must be
missing
But when I push the foot switch on my K3, the K3
transmits but the KPA500 is not producing any power or SWR.
What do you mean by the above statement? What mode is the K3 set to?
What happens when you do a key-down in CW mode?
73, phil, K7PEH
On Nov 1, 2014, at 9:03 AM, Steve Lett
I'm downsizing since retirement earlier this year, will be on the road with the
travel trailer. These item need a new home instead of sitting packed away. I
have my KX3, PX3 along with the KXPA 100, it all fits nicely in the trailer.
The K2, s/n 6576, was built in late 2011 by Dale Putnam WC7S,
Curiously, I just yesterday fired up my new KPA500 (kit) and had a similar
issue. I reached out to Elecraft but was away when the return call came
through. I was sent a procedure for tuning the KAT500, which is hard to do when
the K3 refuses to transmit. As it turns out, for reasons that
You could possibly have reversed the RF in and out cables. I did this
the first time I tested my homebrew 4CX1000A amplifier. Worth checking.
On 1 Nov 2014 18:03, Steve Lett wrote:
I just purchased the entire K line. I have the K3, P3 and KAT500 working
just fine. I cannot get any power
There should be a blocking adapter in the cable kit that should be attached on
the K3 side of the AUX cable. This is used to block the INHIBIT# and other
signals that should not actually go to the KPA from the K3. Some signals are
already cut in the cable, but there are some that actually might
Over the past few days I started to hear a random popcorn popping type
noise on 160, MW and lower. I had never heard a noise like this one.
I couldn't think of anything new around the house- and having no close in
neighbors I was stumped.
Interestingly, the only NB that 100% eliminated it was
The weekly Elecraft SSB net is tomorrow at 1800Z on 14.3035 MHz. Don’t forget
to set your clocks back an hour. The net follows UT. See you then
73,
Phil, NS7P
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Here's a funny story. Last week I ordered a KPA500. Two days later a nearby
Ham dropped off his KPA500 that failed. His K3 was showing high SWR with no
power. He purchased his a year ago and didn't want to pay the expense of
shipping it back to the factory.
I found a defective Q5 (see the TR
On 11/1/2014 9:03 AM, Steve Lett wrote:
I have the K3, P3 and KAT500 working
just fine. I cannot get any power through the KPA500.
You need a cable to put the KPA500 in TX mode. Two ways to do that,
either one works fine. 1) an Aux Cable between the K3 and KPA500. 2) An
RCA to RCA cable
Sure, as long as the pinouts are the same, and the voltage and current ratings
meet your switching requirements.
73,
Wayne
N6KR
On Nov 1, 2014, at 9:16 PM, wa9fvp rep...@willcoele.com wrote:
Here's a funny story. Last week I ordered a KPA500. Two days later a nearby
Ham dropped off his
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