I am helping a local ham who accidentally did a hard reset on his
K2/100. He has given me his original manuals which have the various
initial calibration settings recorded, but as he did the hard reset
accidentally, he did not write down the settings you are supposed to
keep before you do a hard
Help! Yesterday, the frequency display on my K2 #5113 stopped
functioning properly. When I turned off the K2 I was on 14185.09. When
I turned the K2 back on later in the day, it read 14063. Now, every
time I turn the radio on, I see 14063 on 20M no matter what frequency I
was on when I turned
I can't comment on the Tokyo Hy-Power amps, but if you are interested in
building your own 100 watt amp, K5OOR has a new group build project
underway for a 5 watts in, 100 watts out amplifier based on a December
'05 QST article called the SuperPacker Pro. Here is the url. to his web
site for
Thanks to everyone for the suggestions. I have confirmed that the mic
is wired as per the MH2, including the resistor between pins 16. I
have done all of the KSB2 alignments as far I can. I still get a 10
watt carrier when I push the PTT in LSB and USB. In CW when I push the
PTT, I am getting
I am finishing up K2 #5113 and have run into a snag configuring the
microphone on the K2SB2. I am using a Heil Handi Mic HM-IC. Bob Heil
told me to get this mic as he said it would optimize my 706 MKIIG and
the K2. I'm using the Kenwood 8 pin cable for the K2, again per Heil's
recommendation.
I have just finished my second K2, #5113. I am getting only 0.30 watts
output on 20 and 30. Adjustment of L8 and L9 and C21 and C23 has no
affect. All other bands work fine and give me the RF output called for.
Any suggestions on where to look?
Jonathan Gottlieb
WA3WDK
I am currently building my second K2, #5113 (first is #4853). I have
run into a problem with the Alignment and Test, Part 1. When I first
turned the K2 on, I got INFO 201, but it did not switch to the default
frequency display for 40 Meters. I turned it off and turned it back on
again, now all
Any thoughts on this one: Today I hooked up an antenna switch so I could run
the K2/100 and the ICOM 706 and switch between them and use one or the other
when I want to. Both radios run off the same Astron SS-25 power supply. When
I have the 706 turned on and RX only, the KAT100 will not
, the K2 or the 706.
When I switch between the xcvrs, one is connected directly to the antenna, and
the other is switched out of line.
Jonathan
WA3WDK
-Original Message-
From: W3FPR - Don Wilhelm [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Saturday, August 20, 2005 4:29 PM
To: Gottlieb, Jonathan
Does anybody have any experience using the HFProjects Power-Pak with a K2/100?
It is a nice 12v 7ah gel cell with built in trickle charger
(www.hfprojects.com). I wouldn't expect it to power the K2/100 at full 100
Watts, but I'm thinking it would be a good way to have a nice power supply for
I had the same problem. Go into the box and bend the speaker/headphone jack
down. It seems that when you put in the headphones, it bends the connector
up so that when you pull it out, it doesn't make contact to engage the
speaker. Good luck. Let me know if that fixes it.
Jonathan
I've got k2/100 #4856. I've done the C80, C81 mod. Everything checks out
great, except I still get Hi Cur on 30 M and it doesn't seem very robust on 20
or 17 SSB. 80 and 40 M SSB output is fantastic, often peaking right at 100
watts. I get 100 W in CW key down on all bands except for 30 M
Almost finished with my KPA100. Power output is 100 watts on all bands except
30M where I get hi current display over 55 watts. Any suggestions?
Jonathan Gottlieb
WA3WDK
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I have just completed the Power Calibration (R26 andf R27) on my KPA100. The
SWR shows 1.0-1 on 40 and 80M, but then goes up from there. It is 1.5-1 on 10m
and power output as indicated on my external power meter shows power declining
as the SWR is increasing. I am using an MJF 264 dummy
Page 8 of the KDSP2 instructions are very clear about soldering the tab of U2
in order to relieve mechanical stress from the leads of U2 when the KDSP2 PCB
is mounted and the mounting screw tightened. The instructions do not, however,
tell you to solder the leads. This may be obvious to most,
Thanks to all the great guys who contacted me off line about this. The
engineers win!
-Original Message-
From: Gottlieb, Jonathan
Sent: Tuesday, May 10, 2005 9:38 AM
To: 'elecraft@mailman.qth.net'
Subject: KDSP2 U2 Solder the leads?
Page 8 of the KDSP2
I recently posted a note regarding the fact that I was stuck on the VCO
Oscillator Test (p.60) of my K2, #4856. Don, W3FPR gave me some good
suggestions, but nothing seemed to fix the fact that I couldn't get the
oscillator to oscillate. I replaced Q1 and Q2 and the JFET. Still no
I checked carefully for shorts and don't see any. Put everything back together
again and VCO reading is still .00, but Q1 does not seem to be warming up
anymore. Have I fried something? It has been suggested I trace 8R and 8T, any
advice on how to proceed on that? Thanks.
Jonathan
I am building K2 4856. I've run into a real problem. All tests have gone great
until the VCO Oscillator. In doing the VCO Oscillator Test I get a reading of
0 AND Q1, Q2, Q3 and Q4 on the Control Board all got very hot. Hot to the
touch. Not sure where to go with this one. Any
Passed the smoke test last night. All appears to be in order as spec'd.
Jonathan, WA3WDK
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