Hi, Scott ... not sure if my reply is too late (I was away on an extended
trip) ... if not, perhaps the blog I kept (text and photos) during my K2
build will be helpful:
http://build-k2.blogspot.com/
Best -
Bruce K1FFX
-
Bruce Rosen
K1FFX
K2/100 6982 KSB2 KAT100-1 KAF2
--
Sent from: htt
I just finished mine, and its loaded.
I agree with all the previous advice, I picked up another 40 drawer
parts cabinet for the parts, used them both, and kept them in order
that way. Each board had its own area of the cabinets,Packing Box bag
in one area, Control Board in the next, RF boar
Well, if you're ever in SE Wisconsin I'd be happy to give you a tour.
73,
Gary K9GS
Original message From: Fred Jensen Date:
6/15/18 7:12 PM (GMT-06:00) To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: Re:
[Elecraft] K2 Build: Requesting Tips and Tricks
OK, cool! I'd
OK, cool! I'd like to see it work. While I have a lot of respect for
design folk, and especially those who design the super easy websites to
use where you find what you need, do it, leave, and your coffee is still
hot, the Mech E's who can visualize in 3D with motion astound me. I
understand
the axial through hole inserter these days.
73,
Gary K9GS
Original message From: Fred Jensen Date:
6/15/18 6:33 PM (GMT-06:00) To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: Re:
[Elecraft] K2 Build: Requesting Tips and Tricks
Its been 15 years or so [K2 S/N 4398] but my resistors wer
Its been 15 years or so [K2 S/N 4398] but my resistors were taped in the
order of insertion. If yours are, don't remove them before needed. I
measured each of mine as I was about to insert it, and all were
correct. I can see the colors, I just can't name them so this was a
huge gift from Ele
As Don says, different people have different ways of organizing
the hardware. I use ice cube trays. With them, I can put a
finger in and pull a 4-40 split lock washer out with a
fingernail. YMMV!
73 Bill AE6JV
On 6/15/18 at 8:03 AM, donw...@embarqmail.com (Don Wilhelm) wrote:
I personally do
Scott:
Get some magnification aid: binocular microscope, magnifying lamp, etc. Some
of those parts are pretty small and solder joints need to be inspected. Good
lighting is a must as well as an anti static mat.
Brian
KB1VBF
Sent from my iPad
> On Jun 15, 2018, at 2:14 PM, hawley, charles j j
I took about 10 years to build it. I started, then moved the ham shack to the
new addition. I recorded every mod, change and alternate part over the 10 years
and essentially wrote a new updated assembly manual. Bought all the add on
options. Bought new firm ware that I never got to use and bough
I built 7723 last year and it was an outstanding way to while away a
good few days in the desert. Here's a couple of things that might help
you along:
It's not one kit it's 3. Think of it like that and keep everything
separate. Even though you will do a minimal build on the RF board for
test
Scott,
First, do not mix up the front panel, control board, and RF board parts
when doing inventory, do each separately.
Inventory the inductor bag contents separately as well - there is a 1mH
RF choke that looks very closely like a 1k resistor.
If you are not adept at identifying screw sizes
I'll be starting a K2 build in the near future after the inventory is
complete. A partial inventory is complete at this point. I'm looking
for tips and tricks for a successful build. Right now my biggest
problem as I see it, is how to organize all the caps and resistors to
make the build go
I just finished my K2 build, with all the options and Agree with Peter,
there if you buy the options now, the K2 manual will point out just when
you should install the various plugs and other components during the
main K2 build.
My advice, all the K2 manuals are online as PDF at the Elecraft
It's been a long time since I did this, but I remember there are a couple
of connectors for the option boards that can be installed during the main
board assembly, and make a tremendous difference in ease of installing the
options when you get around to it. So there's an advantage in buying at
lea
option and its test. Second -- it's a kit. That's
part of the fun.
Ted, KN1CBR
--
Message: 18
Date: Fri, 25 May 2018 22:06:45 +0100
From: David Woolley
To: AE0MM , Elecraft Reflector
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K2 Buil
The disadvantage is that you will need to unsolder some components. In
most cases, I think you can destroy the through holes, but there is at
least one case where you have to insert a new value in the old hole.
There used to be a, third party, product, called UnPCBs, which provide a
minimal d
Thanks all for the advice. I'm going to build the base K2 first. I'll just have
to use resonant antennas or the kxpa100 w/internal tuner until the KAT2 has
been added.
--ae0mm
‐‐‐ Original Message ‐‐‐
On May 24, 2018 3:27 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote:
>
>
> There is no real disadvant
There is no real disadvantage, other than the fact that the base K2 must
work into a 50 ohm load for proper power control and proper PA loading.
For that reason, I would suggest the KAT2 be the first of those options
that you add.
73,
Don W3FPR
On 5/24/2018 2:44 PM, AE0MM via Elecraft wrote:
None at all. Add what you want at any time after the initial build.
You'll have a better idea what you actually want after playing with the
base K2 for awhile.
Eric KE6US
On 5/24/2018 11:44 AM, AE0MM via Elecraft wrote:
I'm planning to build a K2/10 with the following options:
KNB2
KAT2
KAF2
I'm planning to build a K2/10 with the following options:
KNB2
KAT2
KAF2
Is there any disadvantage to building the base K2, then adding the options
later?
Thanks,
--ae0mm
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AC7AC
-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of
lstavenhagen
Sent: Tuesday, April 12, 2016 12:12 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K2 build from purgatory!
Ah yes, thanks for that reminder. If it comes to that, is there a good w
Don Wilhelm
>
> Sent: Tuesday, April 12, 2016 1:49 PM
> To: lstavenhagen; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K2 build from purgatory!
>
> LS,
>
> I would try pliers first, but watch the process as you apply pressure.
> It may assist if you damage the c
Yes, I spent a lot of good quality time with the encoder installation and it
came out fine in the end. To be honest, all these "problems" have nothing to
do with the kit - it's more I've made more mistakes with this one than my
first K2 build.
On the other hand, the mistakes I have made have been
craft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K2 build from purgatory!
LS,
I would try pliers first, but watch the process as you apply pressure.
It may assist if you damage the case more with your soldering iron (melt
more of the plastic) until you can get an Exacto knife edge into it to
help wit
Hi Don,
I was actually thinking just that - just use my soldering iron and finish
the job I originally started on it lol! I'm lucky that it's one of the
relays in the lowpass filter and not the 40 meter filter, so there are no
components around it of any real note yet
That may be exactly what I
done the same.) Richard Trebbien had another one in my hands within 72
hours. Kudos indeed!
Ted, KN1CBR
>--
>
>Message: 12
>Date: Tue, 12 Apr 2016 07:54:46 -0700 (MST)
>From: lstavenhagen
>To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
>Subject: [Elecraft] K2
Whatever you do, be careful with that rotary encoder. I just had to have Don
replace the one in my K2. Those are $125 each, probably the most expensive
part in the entire radio! Don't lose it!!
73 de W6OGC Jim Allen
Sent from my iPad
_
LS,
I would try pliers first, but watch the process as you apply pressure.
It may assist if you damage the case more with your soldering iron (melt
more of the plastic) until you can get an Exacto knife edge into it to
help with the process.
As I said, use any tool that works - just be carefu
Ah yes, thanks for that reminder. If it comes to that, is there a good way to
smush a latching relay body without dangerously ripping the pins out of the
board? I worry that crushing it with say a pair of pliers could stress the
through-holes in the board. Or is it just not that strong?
Thanks,
LS
LS and all,
Perhaps it is time for a repeat of the following information --
When removing parts from a populated board, it is good to keep in mind
that keeping the board and it thru-plated holes intact is the most
important thing. While it is *nice* to be able to remove the part
intact, ther
Well, more kudos to Elecraft support are in order, so just want to give
credit where exceptional credit is due. My second K2 build is going nowhere
as smoothly as my first one: I somehow managed to lose D36, the SMT PIN
diode and didn't discover that it was actually gone from my table until I
got t
On Sun, 8/2/15, Don Wilhelm
wrote:
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K2
Build: Voltmeter Probe Assembly help
To:
"Mick Hall" ,
elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Date: Sunday, 8 February, 2015, 23:48
Mick,
Since you have a DMM, read the voltage on
RF
Board U1 pin 1 to ground
Mick,
Since you have a DMM, read the voltage on RF Board U1 pin 1 to ground
with your DMM. If it is something other than a nominal 6 volts, then
you have a problem with the voltage regulator or something else on the
voltage regulator output. This is the first step of your testing - make
sur
Hi
I have been progressing through the tests on my K2 build (7587), and have
assembled the voltmeter probe as per instructions on page 44 of the manual, and
engaged the crimp pin in the upper part of the housing as per the diagram.
When I touch the tinned end of the wire on pin 1 of the I/O con
Kev,
Those are the trimmer caps that are currently used. Yes, they are not
ceramic, but they have good temperature compensation characteristics
(better than the original ceramics).
Observe the flat side orientation when installing those capacitors so
they can be properly adjusted when using
The four trimmers provided for C32, C34, C44, and C46 are supposed to be
5-30pF ceramics but the ones supplied appear to be quite different.
They have a brown plastic type body and don't appear to be ceramic. I
can find no markings on the trimmers to indicate their capacitance. The
inside adju
I have now completed up to the start of Assembly, Part III, P67, with
all tests and alignments done.
AND BEST OF ALL, it works!! I have actually heard several strong SSB
signals on 40M.. YAAYY!!
Although I am limited with test equipment, I've managed to pass all tests.
But I will hopefully
Don,
YAAAYYY!!!
The answer turned out to be very simple. I loosened all the chassis
screws in the assembly to date. which gave enough movement in the boards
particularly the RF board, to allow the screws fixing the Control Board
to be tightened easily. I then tightened all the remaining chassi
I think you should go over all the solder joints on the control board.
Just heat them up and apply a tiny bit of solder. Wait till it flows. It
is not a good solution to leave out the screws, because oxidation may
ultimately make the bad solder joints fail even when the board is not
stressed.
Kevin,
That is "telling" that you have not truly flush trimmed the lead on the
encoder board and the area of the control board where it makes potential
contact. There is not a lot of space for error there.
Flush trimmed means really flush with the board thickness. Solder that
protrudes fr
Te kit should fit together without needing to use longer screws, etc.. If it
doesn't, then it indicates you may have done something wrong.
Are the PCB headers sitting properly flush wi the board, or are they sticking
up a bit, possibly causing misalignment? Are you sure you used the right size
Many thanks to Don and others who responded.
The problem has been fixed, I found a suspect dry joint on the PTT/ATT
switch.
I also checked the new encoder which appeared ok but I did insert a very
thin piece of insulation between the new encoder and the control board
to make sure.
All tests
Hi,
These also have the "170" number so may be of similar design.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FZPDG1K/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I've got good service from these, even abusing them. If your a Prime
member or get to the free shipping level at $4.37 these a
Kevin,
You have a K2 with the new encoder board. If the leads on that encoder
board and the area of the Control board directly behind it are not flush
trimmed (really, really flush trimmed), the two will make contact and
'strange things will happen'. Yes, the tools list does not include
flu
Hi to all,
Firstly, let me introduce myself.
I'm an 80 year old ham first licensed 1960, never very active on the
bands, more of a builder than a contest DX-er, and even that building
lapsed about 20 years ago until recently.
it seems that building an Elecraft K2 had been on my to do list since
Heh, goes to show how much I know about electronics. Thank you both, I had
to step away from my build for a month and didn't recall much of my
previous "102" work.
Thanks again.
On Sat, Aug 30, 2014 at 5:01 PM, Matt VK2RQ wrote:
> This is why the inventory at the start of the build is so impor
This is why the inventory at the start of the build is so important -- you
identify all the parts, and in cases of doubt you can sometimes use a process
of elimination to work out which part is which.
For C167, I removed it from my radio when I installed the SSB module. Here is a
picture of it:
Yes, use the .001 uF (marked 102) at C167.
Yes, you will have to bend the leads straight out and then form them
again at a right angle to fit the hole spacing.
Those yellow capacitors are also monolythic, and yes, they do not look
like the picture.
73,
Don W3FPR
On 8/30/2014 5:06 PM, Lane w
Another post here since I'm sure support is closed till Tuesday and I'm
hoping to make some progress over the long weekend.
Pg 51, the very last step, is the install of C167 (.001 uF, "102").
Appendix A shows a "more or less" photo of this capacitor.
I can't locate this capacitor, but then, I may
Shane,
If you note, there is nothing to be done with the RF Probe or the
frequency counter probe in that part of Alignment and test, so you can
go on with the Assembly Part II - you will need to frequency counter
probe for Alignment and Test Part II.
The RF Probe is used only for troubleshooti
Just finished my K2 (just the basic one at this stage, still waiting for the
postman to deliver the SSB module). It really is a great kit, and lots of fun
to build. Now I'm just doing the filter alignment with Spectragram, and will do
the final dial calibration once propagation picks up and I ca
Hi,
I'm doing a K2 build, and was doing good till I got to the RF and freq.
probe assemblies. The part 1 tests (power up, encoder, relays) worked fine.
However, things came to a halt at the RF probe and freq. counter assembly,
mainly for lack of details in the instructions and my on-the-job train
of junction connector but you have to make
proper record yourself - see taking a photo with your smartphone.
Hope this help.
73
Johnny VR2XMC
寄件人︰ Sean Michael Johnston
收件人︰ elecraft@mailman.qth.net
傳送日期︰ 2014年02月15日 (週六) 9:27 AM
主題︰ [Elecraft] [K2] Build questions
I am building the K2 along
Sean,
For a first time builder, I recommend you simply follow the instructions
in the manual. There are only a few components that require desoldering
when adding the options .
I would suggest that you add the Front Panel components for the KSB2
option while you have the Front Panel Board ope
junction connector but you have to make
> proper record yourself - see taking a photo with your smartphone.
>
> Hope this help.
>
> 73
>
> Johnny VR2XMC
> 寄件人︰ Sean Michael Johnston
> 收件人︰ elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> 傳送日期︰ 2014年02月15日 (週六) 9:27 AM
> 主題︰ [Elecr
︰ elecraft@mailman.qth.net
傳送日期︰ 2014年02月15日 (週六) 9:27 AM
主題︰ [Elecraft] [K2] Build questions
I am building the K2 along with options KDSP2, KSB2, K160RX, & K60XV, and I
would like to avoid desoldering parts as much as possible.
Does anyone have a suggestion as to which parts of the options it is OK t
I am building the K2 along with options KDSP2, KSB2, K160RX, & K60XV, and I
would like to avoid desoldering parts as much as possible.
Does anyone have a suggestion as to which parts of the options it is OK to add
as I am building the RF board?
Is it safe to add any of the larger capacitors from
Harry,
Make certain you have the bottom cover in place when running CAL PLL -
yes, it does make a difference!
If you did it with the bottom cover off, no harm, just do it again.
73,
Don W3FPR
On 10/26/2013 10:12 PM, Harry Stone wrote:
Strange indeed, and here is why, when I was messing with
Strange indeed, and here is why, when I was messing with it just now
measuring again, I laid my arm across the case and then I got voltage.
Somewhere I had something shorting against the case.
I'm back on track now, VCO voltage is in spec for every band. CAL PLL is
running now. When it's done
Harry,
That is quite strange. I would examine your work carefully,
particularly looking for lifted solder pads and/or solder bridges.
80 meters should have only C72 in the circuit. You should trace the VFO
range select path with an ohmmeter by following the path in the
schematic (checking f
Well I spoke too soon. I replaced that capacitor and now I have 0 volts on
every band. Any thoughts?
thanx,
harry
On Saturday, October 26, 2013, Harry Stone wrote:
> Don,
> I know this isn't exactly your first rodeo, but that's still pretty
> impressive. I have the wrong component in
Harry,
You are welcome, enjoy the build. If you have problems, we are usually
available.
Yes, I have been "around the block" with the K2 a few times!
The question that may remain is - "Now where did I put that 47 pF
capacitor?" Have fun:-) .
BTW, the only 4.7 pF capacitor in the K2 RF Board
Don,
I know this isn't exactly your first rodeo, but that's still pretty
impressive. I have the wrong component installed at C73, I have a 4
7 pF instead of a 47 pF.
Bravo!
thanx,
harry
On Saturday, October 26, 2013, Don Wilhelm wrote:
> Harry,
>
> The thing in the VFO Range Select are
Harry,
The thing in the VFO Range Select area that is common between 40, 30 and
15 meters is C73,
Check its value - it should be 47 pF (marked 470).
A low voltage at R30 indicates that there is not sufficient capacity in
the tuned circuit and the PLL/VCO is trying to increase the value of the
My VCO control voltage is zero on 40,30, and 15 meters. All other bands
are within the normal range, all tests prior to these measurements passed.
When I try to run CAL PLL, I get info 232 even though I am on 40 meters.
What should I check first?
Thanks!
harry
KD0NFY
--
Have old memories an
Hello,
Here it is: http://radiopreppers.com/index.php/topic,120.0.html
Gil.
--
New site: http://radiopreppers.com
PGP Key: http://keskydee.com/gil.asc
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Help:
one upgraded guise, with a
> fine tooth comb and ensure all test measurements are correct.
>
> Again thanks for the very quick response.
>
> Regards
>
> Nidge (G0NIG)
>
> IO93dv
> - Original Message -
> From: "Don Wilhelm"
> To: "Nigel (Nidge)
st measurements are correct.
Again thanks for the very quick response.
Regards
Nidge (G0NIG)
IO93dv
- Original Message -
From: "Don Wilhelm"
To: "Nigel (Nidge) Smith"
Cc:
Sent: Friday, June 17, 2011 1:02 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K2 Build # 653 SSB issues.
&g
Nidge,
First help me establish the level of your KPA100.
Do you have blue toroids at RFC1 and L16? If so, look at the value of
C31 - it should be 0.22 uF. If C31 is 0.033 uF (33nF) it must be changed.
If you have red toroids at L15 and L16, then your first step is to
install KPA100UPKT.
Th
Hi All
I have in my possession a K2 with the following options.
KPA100, KSB2, K160RX, KNB2, KDSP2, .
I’m not the original builder of this example and the source of the original
builder is a little vague.
So far I have done a complete reset of the radio, fine tuned the alignment of
the bandpas
Page 74 of the manual covers the installation of the option headers
quite well. This is after the PA transistors have been mounted and
before the installation of the heatsink. Do it just as the manual
indicates and there will be no problems.
As an additional hint to make things easier - on
f w2b...@aol.com
Sent: Sunday, October 10, 2010 6:11 PM
To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] K2 Build ideas and suggestions...
Always build basic rig first. Easier to troubleshoot if you have problems.
Geo/
Always build basic rig first. Easier to troubleshoot if you have problems.
Geo/W2BPI
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Found the answer on page 14 of the K2 reflector sight so I have got the
answer to my question.
Thanks
Ed
--
View this message in context:
http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/K2-Build-ideas-and-suggestions-tp5621026p5621039.html
Sent from the [K2] mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
Ed,
I would suggest following the instructions in the K2 manual. There is a
page near the end of construction which indicates a very good time to
install the headers for the options.
For the list of options that you have, it would be beneficial to install
the AUX RF header and the header for
I have decided that I would like to build a QRP K2. With that in mind these
are the options that I would like to include in order:
KSB2,KAT2,KDSP2,K160RX, and the KIO2. I would like to include the KSB2 and
the KAT2 in the initial build. I have limited experience but with the
reflectors help was
Ah yes. Thank you Don. Clearly I've been working too far past my bed time.
73,
Joe
On Jun 11, 2010, at 12:21 AM, Don Wilhelm wrote:
> Joe,
>
> Cutting the tip off the stem bumper is not drastic at all, and is exactly
> what is called for in the instructions. See the first step on page 60 of
Joe,
Cutting the tip off the stem bumper is not drastic at all, and is
exactly what is called for in the instructions. See the first step on
page 60 of the K2 manual in the right column.
With the stem bumper cut, you can then press down on the resistor body
to tighten the fastenings for L33.
Hi all,
Slowly but surely K2 #6773 is coming together. I've noticed that the stem
bumper included for the L33 toroid actually protrudes through the middle a
small distance. This will elevate R116 above the toroid, which is not what the
instructions (page 61, first column, first instruction) s
For the group,
Things are going along very well with my K2 build until I got to RF
board cap # C22 which is supposed to be 3.3pf. I have nothing I
really can positively identify as 3.3pf. I suspect it is a blue
squarish marked one side with 1A and the other side with 2.7C I can
not find a 2.7C
Steve -
Great work. I have 6959 that I got a day or two later than you. I have
finished the Part 1 test with no problem. This is my 3rd K2 (406 & 3638
done before). All I can add to what has been suggested is this > Check
every component before you soldered it in. Sometimes I even turn the
Steve,
For your button problems, I would look on the front panel. Check RP1 to
be certain it is installed the right-way-'round (this particular RPak
cannot be swapped end for end like many others can). Also check the
soldering at the switches as well as U2 and U3.
If you want to follow along
Good news - the rig is on the air! I have made two QSO's on it so far. I
tried holding off to get one of my friends to give me the first QSO but I
scrolled past a guy calling CQ and just couldn't resist HI. So I have two
QSO's on the rig so far.
I tuned the filters first with the receive method.
@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K2 Build - #6950
Problem found. I did some swapnostics with a buddy's K2 and we traced the
problem to the front panel. After going through all the resistance checks
again my friend found the problem - U4 was backwards.
It took me quite a while to fix it. I
Steve KC8QVO wrote:
>
> Problem found. I did some swapnostics with a buddy's K2 and we traced the
> problem to the front panel. After going through all the resistance checks
> again my friend found the problem - U4 was backwards.
>
> It took me quite a while to fix it. I used solder wick to su
Problem found. I did some swapnostics with a buddy's K2 and we traced the
problem to the front panel. After going through all the resistance checks
again my friend found the problem - U4 was backwards.
It took me quite a while to fix it. I used solder wick to suck out the
solder. I am sure anyon
I got the K2 powered up. It showed the default message INFO 201 and ELECrAFt,
then 7100.00c. The display button won't switch anything and the VFO knob
doesnt change the frequency (page 44, left column).
Time for some trouble shooting.
Steve, KC8QVO
--
View this message in context:
http://el
Steve,
With C36 not installed, you may have a strange sounding sidetone note,
but other than that things should work just fine.
73,
Don W3FPR
steve d wrote:
>
>
> I received my kit on Wednesday and I got to the first alignment already! The
> front panel is done, the Control Board is pretty muc
I received my kit on Wednesday and I got to the first alignment already! The
front panel is done, the Control Board is pretty much done, and I started in on
the RF deck.
However, I am missing one of the caps for the Control Board #272 (.0027uH).
Before I power up for the first time, am
Thanks Don,
U8 was faulty only in that I missed soldering a pin, and missed it again
while checking it with the lighted magnifier about 5 times. Clearly, I
should be in bed. It's working now.
73,
Sean - VA5LF
On 12/03/2010 11:23 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote:
> Sean,
>
> U8 is seldom faulty. Check y
Sean,
U8 is seldom faulty. Check your soldering - refer to the Soldering
tutorial on the Builder's resource page at the Elecraft website if you
have questions. If suspicious, re-flow the soldering with a hot iron
(750 to 800 deg F). The solder should flow out to an almost invisible
edge on
Hi all,
I'm building my K2. I've just got to the step where everything gets
assembled and tested for the first time, and when testing the sidetone
I'm getting nothing.
I've set the K2 to edit St L and varied the value from 0 to 255,
checking the voltages on U8. Pin 1 is 0v for all settings, an
Paul,
That is in fact perfectly normal. The reason is that the AGC and RF
Gain control are using the same voltage to control the gain, and the
S-meter responds to that voltage. You will do the initial S-meter
adjustment during your Part II alignment.
73,
Don W3FPR
Paul Huff wrote:
> I have
I have completed part II of the assembly of my K2 and I am about to move on to
part III (alignment and testing of the 4 MHz oscillator, VCO, BFO, etc.).
Everything has gone well up to this point but I did notice something that seems
a little bit unusual. Is it normal for my bargraph to light up
LS,
You may want to add the header for the AUX RF before you mount the heat
sink on the K2 RF Board, and that part is included with the KPA100 kit.
All other changes or additions are easily accessible by removing the
bottom cover. Removing the heat sink is not a nasty chore, but is more
invo
Hi all,
I just completed the control and front panel board builds yesterday. The kit
is really remarkable, even the mounting of the LCD and diffuser basically
went off without a hitch. I did have a capacitor left over at the end of the
front panel build. Went back through the manual and saw the on
It took me two and a half days to build my 2nd K2, about 30 hours total,
then some time spent doing the alignment and adjustment, then I built most
of the options in the next week.
The first K2 took about 40 hours, but I think they improved the manual over
time.
The building is VERY fun and add
Jon,
The KAT100 can be used with the basic K2, there are 4 internal K2
signals that must be routed to the KAT100 for it to function. So the
base K2 MUST be equipped with the KIO2 or a suitable substitute (see the
websites dealing with the external KPA100 for the substitute - if it
works for
EMAIL PROTECTED]; 'elecraft reflector'
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] K2 Build Sequence Question
I can't comment on the KPA100 or KAT100.
Your intentions of an incremental build make sense to me.
I'd make sure that the KAT100 will function as an autotuner with the basic
10 watt rig (I'
t solved.
Others on this forum with more K2 experience than I will chime in, I'm sure.
I've just built one K2, and it's the QRP version.
73 de Dick, K6KR
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Jon Perelstein
Sent: Saturday, July 05
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