Maybe a problem maybe not!
The K3 works fine except the speaker audio has gone away. No external
speaker and when unplugged there is no K3 speaker audio either. The
headphones work fine as every other part of the K3 does. I've not removed
the top or in any way upset anything. I've check
I have had my K3 for a few years and have always kept it up to date. It seems
cheaper than taking a loss in selling it and springing for a K3S. I am about to
send it in again for the new synth boards and DSP board swap, etc.
In the end, I will have 90% of a K3S. Is this the way to go?
Thanks,
Lynn,
Any chance that the speaker cable became unplugged inside? - you need to
remove the top cover to check.
73,
Don W3FPR
Lynn Lamb, W4NL wrote:
> Maybe a problem maybe not!
>
> The K3 works fine except the speaker audio has gone away. No external
> speaker and when unplugged there is n
Hi Ed!
I took the same route with K3 #0056 and am very pleased. Would do the same
again.
73
Ken - K0PP
On May 2, 2016 12:51, "Ed via Elecraft" wrote:
> I have had my K3 for a few years and have always kept it up to date. It
> seems cheaper than taking a loss in selling it and springing for a
You’ll have more than 90% of a K3S if you have kept up with the mods and
offered upgrades over time.
The main differences would be (1) an improved 4-layer RF board with a reduced
noise profile, (2) improved (lower) IMD in the audio section of the new DSP
board for speaker outputs (this was supp
That's working well for me, Ed.
73, Phil W7OX
On 5/2/16 11:49 AM, Ed via Elecraft wrote:
I have had my K3 for a few years and have always kept it up to date. It seems
cheaper than taking a loss in selling it and springing for a K3S. I am about to
send it in again for the new synth boards an
had my k3 about three years now. I have always kept up with upgrades.
hardware and sw.
seems like the best way to protect my investment and keep it current.
I do the hardware upgrades myself. saves shipping cost and time. it is
not hard to do ur self.
ron
On Mon, May 2, 2016, 16:06 Phil Wheel
U think you'll have more than 90%. I installed the new synth myself.
Second hardest part was disconnecting all the wires behind my
"wireless," and the hardest part was reconnecting them. You have to do
that if you send it in as well. The actual install was very
straightforward and easy.
73
not broke so I won't
attempt fixing it... NUF said.
Mel, K6KBE
From: Fred Jensen
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Monday, May 2, 2016 3:33 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Need Advice
U think you'll have more than 90%. I installed the new synth myself.
Second hardes
the enhancement of performance. The installation is easy.
73
Johnny VR2XMC
寄件人︰ Phil Wheeler
收件人︰ elecraft@mailman.qth.net
傳送日期︰ 2016年05月3日 (週二) 5:03 AM
主題︰ Re: [Elecraft] Need Advice
That's working well for me, Ed.
73, Phil W7OX
On 5/2/16 11:49 AM, Ed via Elecraft wrote:
>
Ed,
I did the Synth upgrade (= improvement) and the 2nd preamp for the
higher bands (= a very necessary feature)
That's it for me.
73
Arie PA3A
Op 2-5-2016 om 20:49 schreef Ed via Elecraft:
I have had my K3 for a few years and have always kept it up to date. It seems
cheaper than taki
Aloha:
I have had my K3 since last October. I think I have given it a fair trail.
It is just too darned complicated for me. I have never been able to get it to
give the same background noise for cw as it gives for ssb.
I think I want to get rid of it.
Can anyone advise me of a rig, same pr
Hi Susan,
I love my K3 and it may be worth you trying a little longer to get used
too.
And if I were going to step down in quality to me the next best rig
is the Elecraft K2...not as complicated but a great CW rig.
Joe KK5NA
On Fri, 2010-08-20 at 12:04 -0700, ussv
ou half of what you paid for the K3.
> Date: Fri, 20 Aug 2010 12:04:05 -0700
> From: ussvdha...@yahoo.com
> To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net; li...@subich.com
> Subject: [Elecraft] need advice on rig
>
> Aloha:
> I have had my K3 since last October. I think I have given it a fair tr
The noise will normally be different, Susan. The bandwidth is typically
narrower for CW, which means the noise will sound different and be lower in
amplitude for CW.
You aren't the first to complain that the rig is "too complicated", but it
need not be. The issue is usually there are too many th
Hi Susan
I would also suggest playing with the RX eq I have serial # 3142 before
the DSP change and found
that for my taste I liked the RX better if I pulled down the top two
bands (#7) 2.4 kHz and
(#8) 3.2 kHz to -5 this takes some of the high end shisssh hiss off
receiver.
With a couple of
aft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] Need advice - upgrade vs. new K2
Craig,
If you plan to keep it, I would say that you should upgrade the current K2
no matter what - and do ALL the upgrades and all the optional pieces too -
including the Keying waveshape change, the PLL Temperature compensat
Hello all,
I am the owner if a K2, KX3, PX3, and KXPA100. I have been a ham since
1982, and love my Elecraft gear. I have a question for the group. I am
moving from my current QTH in Corvallis, OR after 30 years. Currently I
have a Rohn 25 based tower that is about 35 feet above my flat ro
The antenna just over your roof line should not be a problem. You will be
able to work a lot of stations with this setup. Before buying the antenna
I would suggest that you read the tribander test report.
http://www.championradio.com/HF-TRIBANDER-PERFORMANCE-TEST-METHODS-RESULTS.2
John KK9A
from
I thought I posted a similar message yesterday but it did not show up. Probably
an error on my part. But if it shows . . . oh well . .
I just ordered the SSB option along with the Heil headset mic. I am now seeing
posts about problems with the Heil mics. It was advertised as being
specifical
This falls into the "help me rationalize what I want
to do" bucket, but make it factual.
I am an owner of a K2 sn 1014 who loves to build. It
has SSB, NB, 160M, auto tuner and battery. (Also have
a KX1 and a T1)
Should I;
1. Upgrade the K2 and add the KP100 (Upgrades are
about $140 total)...or
2.
> -Original Message-
> KNB2 Rev C dtd 3 Feb 2000
> KAT2, Rev B, dtd Feb 14, 2000
> KSB2, Rev B, dtd Nov 15, 199
> but are there any upgrades to the un built modules?
KSB2:
I am aware of the ALC upgrade mod for the KSB2 dated Sept 2001, see
http://www.qslnet.de/member/la3za/K2/mod.html and
Terry - My tower is a MA-40, bracketed to the end of my garage, with a
rotor and TA-33Jr on top.
I've worked 200 DXCC entities with it at 100 watts from here in the RF
black hole of Minnesota, so it seems like an effective setup for me.
It's not a 'super station' but I have plenty of fun with it (a
I also moved and down sized my antenna/tower. I put up 40' of my 70' Rohn
25. I added a hazer and can bring the antenna down to the ground, no
climbing. I added a worm gear to the hazer and am able to run the hazer
with a battery operated drill. I thought about having the tower attached to
the s
Hello Terry,
In my opinion, there will be no problem. I can imagine that if the tower
is right at the house and if there is a strip of metal flashing along
the peak of the roof it might detune the director slightly when the
antenna is pointed east. Maybe. But I can't believe it will cause you
Don't discount the Hex Beam concept.
Mel, K6KBE
From: Vic Rosenthal 4X6GP
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net; Terry Brown
Sent: Tuesday, July 12, 2016 6:12 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Need advice on Small Tower
Hello Terry,
In my opinion, there will be no problem. I can imagine th
28 AM Mel Farrer via Elecraft <
elecraft@mailman.qth.net> wrote:
> Don't discount the Hex Beam concept.
> Mel, K6KBE
>
>
> From: Vic Rosenthal 4X6GP
> To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net; Terry Brown
> Sent: Tuesday, July 12, 2016 6:12 AM
> Subject: Re: [Elecra
> There are newer designs for small beams that are better than the
> venerable TA-33.
Force 12 XR-5 or JK Antennas Navassa 5 both cover 20, 17, 15, 12 and
10 meters. Both are available with a 6 meter (XR-6 or 6M add-on)
option. Although the antennas have two active elements er band, they
they
Terry, with the assistance and skill of the legendary Skip, KJ6Y, I have just
had installed the US Tower MA-40, and cannot recommend it more highly
especially for a tight urban lot. The tubular tower easily supports a 63-pound
SteppIR DB-11 plus a smaller 40M rotatable MFJ dipole. It rests when
Many years ago I replaced a TA 33 with a Force 12 C3, I saw one db
improvement in signals testing 15 meters and 20 meters ( before then
after) with a station 30 miles away, it was even on 10 meters, in all
ways of comparison it was better, I later put the 40 meter element on it
which had its o
Terry,
If you check out my QRZ page, you'll note that I have a USTower TMM-541SS
with a Yaesu G1000DXA rotator and a Force12 XR6 topping it off.
https://www.qrz.com/db/K4QE
The antenna is at 47 feet AGL and it covers 20 thru 6 with one coax.
The TMM-541SS nests down to 12 feet, and I also have
Hi Terry,
I'm moving and I've just sold my MA40 with the MARB40 tilt over/rotator
base. It's a fine tower for small loads. Be careful, it's only rated at
3sqft load when the tower is cranked down to the 21 foot level. I had a 2
element SteppIR yagi on it and I would crank it down if winds over 20
quare.
Date: Wed, 13 Jul 2016 04:01:47 -0700 (MST)
From: Mike K2MK
To:elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Need advice on Small Tower
Message-ID:<1468407707184-7620050.p...@n2.nabble.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Hi Terry,
I'm moving and I've just
I would be interested in the website / picture from anyone on this thread.
I was given an older Wilson version of the MA40, and am working on the install
now. Any advice or input would be appreciated.
Niel
WA7SSA
Sent from my iPhone
> On Jul 13, 2016, at 05:01, Mike K2MK wrote:
>
> Hi Ter
ng the size of the extended portion which is 3
inches square.
Date: Wed, 13 Jul 2016 04:01:47 -0700 (MST)
From: Mike K2MK
To:elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Need advice on Small Tower
Message-ID:<1468407707184-7620050.p...@n2.nabble.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; ch
Hi Bill:
So, before I condescend to selling my Bencher BY-2, retiring the J-38 for
life and start building the K2 SSB board, the 100 watt amp and permanently
retiring up-band, can someone give me some advice on possibly mastering the
Iambic key.
NEVER GIVE UP...!
Questions include:
1. Iam
ffGM4ESD K2/100 3255
- Original Message -
From: "jim danehy" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To:
Sent: Wednesday, November 24, 2004 12:39 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] Need advice on Heil mic
I thought I posted a similar message yesterday but it did not show up.
Probab
Jim and all,
If you ordered the Heil ProSet-K2 that Elecraft is selling (or any other
Heil manufactured product that Elecraft sells), you have no need for
concern. All those microphones are made with elements designed
specifically for the K2.
It is only folks with the Heil products using t
- Original Message -
From: "Craig Black" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To:
Sent: Friday, January 06, 2006 3:18 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] Need advice - upgrade vs. new K2
> This falls into the "help me rationalize what I want
> to do" bucket, but make it factual.
>
> I am
One thing Wayne/Eric have been scrupulous about is to offer mods/updates to
current K2 owners so their rigs work every bit as well as the latest one
shipped.
So you can't make your choice based on any possible performance improvement
of a newer K2 over your older one if you have done the updates a
At 12:18 PM 1/6/2006, Craig Black wrote:
>1. Upgrade the K2 and add the KP100 (Upgrades are
>about $140 total)...or
>2. Buy a new K2 with the SSB option and KP100 ?
If you buy the new one you'll eventually end up doing the upgrade on the old
one.
The upgrade process was fun - I think you end up
Craig,
If you plan to keep it, I would say that you should upgrade the current K2
no matter what - and do ALL the upgrades and all the optional pieces too -
including the Keying waveshape change, the PLL Temperature compensation
change and the Extremely Strong signal Handling diodes (no parts kit
Don Wilhelm wrote:
[...]
> change and the Extremely Strong signal Handling diodes (no parts kit for
> this last one, but it takes only 2 1N4148 diodes).
I'm guessing you could order 2 * E560002 if you really wanted.
For what it's worth, most recent E560002 "1N4148" diodes seem to be
actually "PH4
Tom, of course the spring tension is the same on both paddles, the spring
just wraps around the rear post. However, the distance from the pivots to
the spring attachment point is individually adjustable. So, although the
spring tension is identical, left to right, that tension's torque (toward
open
I agree with Tom.
"NO...! TAKE IT OUT OF TEST MODE NOW!!!
NOW is the time to be OPERATING! GET ON THE AIR and USE your
abilities... use the J-38 as a starting point... you can probably get
up to 18-20 WPM with it yet, all the while improving your abilities
to copy. "
There is simply NO bett
Tom wrote:
>>1. Iambic A or Iambic B?
>
>Generally, most ops seem to prefer Mode B as it is a bit more 'forgiving'.
Tom, much as I hate to, I'm going to disagree a little here.
The paddle timing is quite a lot more critical in mode B than in mode A, since
holding the paddles closed just a *t
One man's nemesis is another man's requirement By pure chance, I
learned to use a keyer with a Mode B machine many,,,many years ago. I
now find that I have trouble leaving off trailing dots if I use a Mode A
machine. So the remark that Mode B allows leaving off a tiny bit earlier
is right
ubject: Re: [Elecraft] Need advice on the Iambic key
> Tom wrote:
>
> >>1. Iambic A or Iambic B?
> >
> >Generally, most ops seem to prefer Mode B as it is a bit more 'forgiving'.
>
> Tom, much as I hate to, I'm going to disagree a little here.
>
&
flop my digits back
> and forth.
>
>
>
> - Original Message -
> From: "Mike Morrow"
> To:
> Sent: Wednesday, June 28, 2006 5:34 PM
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Need advice on the Iambic key
>
>
> > Tom wrote:
> >
> > >>
G'day,
Well my set up here is:
Mode B
PdLr
I'm mainly left handed and send dashes with my thumb
Have a Bencher BY-2 or whatever the two paddled horror is called and I
don't like it
Will probably get a single paddle soon, probably Kent kit. My first keyer
was a Samson (sp) ETM-2B which I used f
My Elecraft K3 has no AM filters installed. I tried to RX AM broadcast
stations on MW band but had no success.
I'd be grateful if you could advice me to add it on, or, is there a way to
do it as is, now pse?
I need it as features to check the 160m RX antenna directions in the coming
YB8Y DXpedition
It's time to get a new rig. I'll be using it in Thailand - with bad
conditions (Chinese radar, pirates and not many hams in neighboring
countries).
>From experience, I know and love the K1 and K2. But right now I'm confused
about which one to buy. The KX1 is very portable and with bad conditions,
Jo,
Without adding the 6 kHz or 13 kHz filter, AM reception may be done
using the 2.7 (or 2.8) kHz filter for Synchronous AM reception. That
gives you a full 2.7 kHz audio width instead of constraining it to half
that width when using regular AM demodulation.
73,
Don W3FPR
On 3/12/2012 5:17
Chris Wagner wrote:
Is the K3's filters an improvement to the K2's variable one? Are machines or
people building the factory assembled K3s? Has someone compared K2 and K3
side by side? Thank you!
The K3's filters are much better than the K2's, in terms of IMD
performance and ultimate rejectio
AIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Chris Wagner" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Cc:
Sent: Sunday, October 07, 2007 10:56 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Need advice - which Elecraft rig for SE Asia?
> Chris Wagner wrote:
>
> > Is the K3's filters an improvement to the K2's variable one? Ar
Robert Tellefsen wrote:
Hi Vic
Just out of curiousity, have you metered the
K3's current draw in receive mode? I
expect to use my K3 at 5w on FD next year, and
want to start planning for the battery/solar
bank to run it.
Yes, actually, it's about 1 amp. It might be less if you don't have the
3
Bob N6WG
- Original Message -
From: "Vic K2VCO" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Robert Tellefsen" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; "Elecraft Reflector"
Sent: Monday, October 08, 2007 12:23 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Need advice - which Elecraft rig for SE Asia?
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