Or of course, use a converter program on your smart phone!!!
;-)
73 de David, M0XDF
On 27 Apr 2012, at 04:59, Don Wilhelm wrote:
Actually, the conversion is easier to remember than those two formulas.
The two scales coincide at -40 degrees.
So for the conversion (either way) first add 40.
I just push the switch on my Weller and watch it change from F to C.
I love simple. Hehehehehe
OK, back in my hole,
Ron, KU7Y
SOWP 5545M
Arizona Outlaws Contest Club
Brenda, AZ (Winter)
Caldwell, ID (Summer)
k...@qsl.net
http://www.hatpinsandmore.com
KX3 #0062
Another trick, you can do C-F in your head:
Double the centigrade temperature, subtract 10% from the product, and add 32 to
get Fahrenheit.
10 degrees C = (2*10-2) + 32 = 50 degrees F
F-C is not so slick, but works:
Subtract 32 from the Fahrenheit temperature, add 11% of the result to
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net [elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] on
behalf of Matt Zilmer [mzil...@verizon.net]
Sent: Thursday, April 26, 2012 11:49 PM
To: d...@w3fpr.com
Cc: Elecraft Reflector
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] solder iron correct temp in C for K3
Nice memory aid!
matt
On 4/27/2012 6:55 AM, elecraft-requ...@mailman.qth.net wrote:
Re: [Elecraft] solder iron correct temp in C for K3
I try to minimize the number of formulas I need to remember.
This one has served me well
1.8C=F-32
Replace the known value, and solve for the unknown.
Or if you only need
aka Jack, BMW Motorcycles
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net [elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] on
behalf of Matt Zilmer [mzil...@verizon.net]
Sent: Thursday, April 26, 2012 11:49 PM
To: d...@w3fpr.com
Cc: Elecraft Reflector
Subject: Re: [Elecraft
Pretty cool trick, Monty. But I'll stick with just touching the tip of the
iron to my tongue. Much less painful than doin' the math! ;o)
Terry, W0FM
-Original Message-
From: Monty Shultes [mailto:mon...@mindspring.com]
Sent: Friday, April 27, 2012 5:55 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] solder iron correct temp in C for K3
Actually, the conversion is easier to remember than those two formulas.
The two scales coincide at -40 degrees.
So for the conversion (either way) first add 40.
Then if the conversion is from Centigrade to Fahrenheit multiply by 9/5 (you
:-) Funny!
73,
Bill
K9YEQ
-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Terry Schieler
Sent: Friday, April 27, 2012 11:45 AM
To: 'Monty Shultes'
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] solder iron correct
It won't work for SMD stuff, but over the years I've had great success
using a classic Ungar 27W cartridge (which I seem to remember was around
850°F) with a screw-ON 1/8 screwdriver tip for just about everything
but the heaviest jobs. This includes lots of building stuff with
standard
3605, V4 Passive 3606
-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Randy Farmer
Sent: Friday, April 27, 2012 2:15 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] solder iron correct temp in C for K3
It won't work
I cheat. My Hakko soldering station is calibrated in both C and F
Ron AC7AC
-Original Message-
Another trick, you can do C-F in your head:
Double the centigrade temperature, subtract 10% from the product, and add 32
to get Fahrenheit.
10 degrees C = (2*10-2) + 32 = 50 degrees F
I have a new solder iron that is temperature
controlled in degrees C.
What temp should I set the iron for work on the
K3? I am using 60/40
rosin core, small diameter solder. While using
solder wick to clean out
the holes from the 12 dc mod kit I used 300c and
dipped the wick in
solder flux. I
Smith,
I suggest you increase the iron temperature to 400 degC (750 degF).
The other suggestion I can offer is to use 63/37 allow solder (eutectic)
with a mildly reactive flux (such as Kester 287). Save the large
diameter Kester 44 (highly reactive flux) for antenna work and other
jobs where
I usually go between 370C and 400C or about (700F-750F) for most jobs.
Setting your iron to low will mean that it will take longer for the
solder to melt and giving more time for the heat to travel into the
component and possible damage.when working on boat-anchors with
point to point
On 4/26/2012 4:26 PM, W9HAK wrote:
I have a new solder iron that is temperature controlled in degrees
C. What temp should I set the iron for work on the K3? I am using
60/40 rosin core, small diameter solder. While using solder wick to
clean out the holes from the 12 dc mod kit I used 300c
-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of W9HAK
Sent: Thursday, April 26, 2012 4:26 PM
To: Elecraft listserve
Subject: [Elecraft] solder iron correct temp in C for K3
I have a new solder iron that is temperature controlled in degrees C.
What temp
Actually, the conversion is easier to remember than those two formulas.
The two scales coincide at -40 degrees.
So for the conversion (either way) first add 40.
Then if the conversion is from Centigrade to Fahrenheit multiply by 9/5
(you will be going to a greater number), but if the conversion
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Elecraft mailing list
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Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list:
Or, in google just type something like: 750F to C
Works for all kinds of different units of measure.
On 4/26/2012 10:59 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote:
Actually, the conversion is easier to remember than those two formulas.
The two scales coincide at -40 degrees.
So for the conversion (either way)
Nice memory aid!
matt
On Thu, 26 Apr 2012 23:59:05 -0400, you wrote:
Actually, the conversion is easier to remember than those two formulas.
The two scales coincide at -40 degrees.
So for the conversion (either way) first add 40.
Then if the conversion is from Centigrade to Fahrenheit multiply
I'm not fluent in metric and use this link all the time:
http://www.worldwidemetric.com/Measurements.html
73,
Bob
K2TK ex KN2TKR (1956) K2TKR
On 4/27/2012 12:32 AM, Gary K9GS wrote:
Or, in google just type something like: 750F to C
Works for all kinds of different units of measure.
On
I've got #4 lenses in my OptiVisor. Since it is designed to wear it over my
normal reading glasses I can change the magnification by taking my reading
glasses off, but seldom do.
In addition to Hamfests, you can find Optivisors at most hobby and crafts
stores.
Ron AC7AC
-Original
OptiVisors also restrict peripheral vision. Keep that in mine while
reaching for the hot soldering iron. I had to interrupt work on a kit
for a trip to the emergency room! I thought that I knew just where to
reach. I was a little off.
73,
Rick K7MW
On Dec 9, 2011, at 10:07 AM, Ron
Check Magnifier.com for their HVM-5L lighted magnifier. It comes with a
set of 4 interchangeable lenses giving 1.2X, 1.8X, 2.5X and 3.5X
magnifications. The lenses clip into the headband. No peripheral
vision restrictions. Does not have a knob-adjustable headband, but the
slide-clamp
FWIW: I built my K2 and KX1 using a 1 lb roll of 63/37 0.015 solder
I've had for a hundred years. I never had feed-rate problems, and was
able to very finely control how much solder went into the holes.
There's still about 1/3 lb of solder on the roll.
My wife bought me a magnifying lamp
I ordered a K2 today. Can someone tell me a specific vendor and solder that
would be good to use. I was also wondering if anyone has a good idea for a
cheap magnifying lamp. I have the static mat and strap from my K1 build.
Anything else I might need?
73
Don
K4YND
--
View this message in
Solder: any electronic solder (rosin core) is good. Kester is considered one
of the top o' the line. Another I have is Tech Spray. I'd avoid
lead-free solder - it requires more heat to make a good joint. I still use
good old 60/40. Probably a bigger issue is to avoid really large diameter
solder
Don,
I suggest you invest in a spool of good solder. My preference is a
63/37 alloy (eutectic) which will be the lowest melting point solder -
but more important it has no plastic state, it goes from a liquid to a
solid with no plastic state in between. That is the cure for what we
used to
Anyone got any thoughts - my K2 has been playing up with the serial
connection so I investigated and ...
The entire serial board is no longer the neat bright solder joints that were
there when I made it. Instead almost every joint is a dull matt grey and in
many places there are bits of white
Brian,
Is there any chance that you used a lead-free solder on that board?
Your description certainly sounds like that may have been the case. The
white residue could be the start of tin whisker formation, but could
also be caused by flux removal attempts.
Attempts to remove flux can
Tin whiskers form in the presence of moisture and high electric fields,
and I doubt there are high enough E-fields in a K2 to do that ...
especially at the circuit board level. Plus, tin whiskers usually have
a spider web appearance.
A whitish powder, on the other hand, is much more likely
Resoldering the connections is a good idea.
As far as cleanup, I have a K2 that was involved in a house fire in 2003. The
recovered K2 was wet totally soot black, the bezel was melted and the knobs
heat distorted. I was advised to try cleaning it up with isopropyl alcohol on
Q-tips and
...
K2 4841 Date: Sun, 23 Mar 2008 19:51:00 + From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To:
elecraft@mailman.qth.net CC: Subject: [Elecraft] Solder fumes It goes
without saying that Elecraft have produced an excellent piece of technology in
the K3 but even in the kit form it doesn't quite have the I built
It goes without saying that Elecraft have produced an excellent piece of
technology in the K3 but even in
the kit form it doesn't quite have the I built it feeling like the other
Elecraft products. Having said that I'm
sure there is no way that the average builder could attempt something quite
and a
rather anemic radio at 10m and 160m.
Just a few ideas.
73, Bob N6WG
The Little Station with Attitude
- Original Message -
From: Trevor Smithers [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Sunday, March 23, 2008 11:51 AM
Subject: [Elecraft] Solder fumes
It goes
@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] Solder and flux
I solder at 800F with a Weller temp-controlled iron and have a
little
tub of Kesler 44 rosin flux on the bench. When reheating a joint I
take an Exacto knife with the number 11 blade(the pointed
triangular one
that is also good for removing
I’ve just purchased a soldering station for K2 construction and am wondering
if it is properly ESD safe. It is O/C between the tip and the ground pin of
the wall plug. However the station does have a grounding terminal on the
back, and tip – terminal measures 1 meg ohm. Will this be ESD safe,
Euan,
That is an 'isolated tip' type soldering station which allows safe work
on live circuits.
The 1 megohm resistance says that it is protected for ESD. Yes, ground
the terminal lug - the wall socket should do for dissipating normal
static charges.
73,
Don W3FPR
Euan wrote:
I’ve just
In a message dated 7/31/07 10:10:23 PM Eastern Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED]
writes:
why not just put
solder in the kit? (Like Heathkit used to do.)
IIRC, Heath did not always include solder in their kits. They finally started
to do so because of all the problems caused by builders
While as a young EE engineer at Eastman Kodak, in
Rochester - we were immersed in a active employee
suggestion program. Every accepted suggestion,
especially if a cost-saver - would result in Kodak
giving submitter employee(s) a percentage 1-time of
the dollars saved for the company.
The recent
Good idea...I do the same using an empty sewing thread spool...Holding a one
pound spool of solder while soldering 17 relays can get very tiring on an
arthritic wrist...G
Jerry, wa2dkg
For some time, I have used a fly-tying bobbin as a solder dispenser. If you
don't know what that is, go to a
While as a young EE engineer at Eastman Kodak, in
Rochester - we were immersed in a active employee
suggestion program.
When I worked for Rockwell Collins (the old Collins Radio Company) they had
a Productivity Improvement Program. We had to submit ideas for posters to
be put up around the
Craig - in the late 80's early 90's, I used
to run a large Uncle Sam gov microelectronics
program - and we had a contract with I
believe TRW or Rockwell, whom had taken over
that facility from Collins. The Collins ARC
still had their tower off to 1 side. Neat
area - very close to Newport Beach,
I am a fairly new ham. I'll probably be thought of poorly by some, based on
prior readings here, however I managed to grow up not learning to solder or
build kits or anything similar. I have virtually no tools for such
activities either. Based on my readings here and elsewhere I find the
Elecraft
In response to the solder comments i'd like to contribute my $0.02 :
IDM, As long as the solder is not on the prohibited list it doesn't
matter. There I said it, everyone proceed to gasp and freak out. I'm
still working on my K2 slowly, and have now used more than 6 different
kinds of solder
Or credit for a K3 or other elecraft item.
On 8/1/07, Craig Rairdin [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
While as a young EE engineer at Eastman Kodak, in
Rochester - we were immersed in a active employee
suggestion program.
When I worked for Rockwell Collins (the old Collins Radio Company) they had
I haven't been following this thread, but the poster seems to make a valid
point.
I built K2 #1103 several years ago and the thinking at that time was to use
an alloy of silver solder. So that's what I did. Once my kit was built I
more or less ignored the posts regarding solder, but about a
PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Tom McCulloch
Sent: Wednesday, August 01, 2007 7:07 PM
To: Marty Young; Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Solder in Elecraft kits
I haven't been following this thread, but the poster seems to make a valid
point.
I built K2 #1103
Tom,
There is no one universally 'good' solder. Each builder has what is
familiar to him and has worked well in the past. I offer my own best
explanations below:
I do know of one expert builder who uses .031 diameter solder for
everything, including SMD construction - but he is an
Marty,
Several places have solder in a tube ala:
http://www.amazon.com/Kester-Electronic-Solder-040-Tube/dp/B0002BSP2C
I'm sure Mouser has this as well...
AmQRP is the only group I've dealt with that included
solder in a kit. It was nice, much finer than what I
have on hand and intended for SMT
I agree that solder in a tube is convenient, but it limits your choice of
solder types and is not too economical.
For some time, I have used a fly-tying bobbin as a solder dispenser. If you
don't know what that is, go to a fly-fishing shop or a well-equipped sporting
goods store. Be
I don't think Elecraft should supply solder...It might be a nice gesture, but
with the escalating price of solder due to RoHS, I think it would place an
unnecessary economic and RoHS compliance burden on Elecraft which could impact
the price of kits...If the builder is green, he has the choice
I taught classes using heathkit resources for many years until 1999 when
they gave it up. In the end they still shipped some kits as part of their
educational effort and I had my students building hundreds of their kits. They
were
by far the best choice for education. After taking a break
In my Heathkit time, they did not provide the solder, (1957). First I tried
Kester rosin core. But later, I bought Ersin Multicore, (today Multicore
Solders), upon the suggestion of some experienced ham, and it was the most
superior solder I had used. I used Kester, but did not get the
Is this guy serious? I know hams are cheap, but this takes the
cake! Next he's gonna want dikes, needlenose, a magnifier, and a
soldering iron!
73,
Jim Brown K9YC
___
Elecraft mailing list
Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
You must be a
Guys - As per the list guidelines, please do make personal attacks
against others on the list. Its inappropriate and unnecessary. Let's
keep it cordial. :-)
73,
Eric WA6HHQ
Elecraft List Moderator
Jim Brown wrote:
Is this guy serious? I know hams are cheap, but this takes the
cake!
From monitoring the mail here, it would seem like
a lot (most?) of the problems with the kits are solder
related. I had no problems with anything I have built,
despite very fast build times, and I would guess that
is because I have had LOTS of soldering practice.
(solder all day long for years
On Tue, 31 Jul 2007, Jim Brown wrote:
Is this guy serious? I know hams are cheap, but this takes the
cake! Next he's gonna want dikes, needlenose, a magnifier, and a
soldering iron!
And then, in order to offset the costs, Elecraft could ship the manual and a
small selection of paint and
On Tue, 31 Jul 2007, Thom LaCosta wrote:
On Tue, 31 Jul 2007, Jim Brown wrote:
And Jim Brown bounces messages sent to him wanting folks to confirm that they
really sent them.
It's like calling CQ and when you hear an answer, telling the person to send
you a QSL and then you'll answer.
elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Date: Tue, 31 Jul 2007 15:29:56 -0700
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Solder in Elecraft kits
Is this guy serious? I know hams are cheap, but
this takes the
cake! Next he's gonna want dikes, needlenose, a
magnifier, and a
soldering iron!
73,
Jim Brown K9YC
On Tue, 31 Jul 2007 19:09:32 -0700 (PDT), Marty Young wrote:
Yes, I was serious. If you disagree, rather than
insult me, why not make an intelligent argument to the
contrary? Many others did.
OK, I will. I've been a ham for
___
Elecraft mailing
Yes, I was serious. If you disagree, rather than
insult me, why not make an intelligent argument to the
contrary? Many others did.
OK, I will. This is not a personal attack, it is a
statement of philosophy. Notice that I took names off this
post and the previous one.
I've been a ham for 52
Marty,
You're cutting off your nose to spite your face,
so goes an old saying.
So someone was maybe less-than-kind in their reply.
Happens sometimes ...
There's a HUGE resirvoir of information and folks eager
to help available for the asking on the reflector.
Someone DID give a
I remember the long thread about solder to use - and I see the Warrant is up
on the site for the K3, but since it is a solderless kit, I assume that bit
doesn't appy?
However, I've ordered an XV144 too and guess solder type does apply to that.
I have solder going back 20 years, so not sure if it
In a recent message, Mike [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote ...
Does solder eventually go bad?
I am still using 60/40 Multicore solder that I inherited from a
previous employer forty years ago and it still works fine. I built my
K2, K1 KX1, etc with it with no problems.
73
--
David G4DMP
Leeds,
On 6/17/07, David Pratt [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
I am still using 60/40 Multicore solder that I inherited from a
previous employer forty years ago and it still works fine. I built my
K2, K1 KX1, etc with it with no problems.
That's the same stuff I'm using. I bought a reel as a kid of 16
Does solder eventually go bad? I'm sure the metal components don't, but I
wonder about the flux. I'm talking about a span of many years. I'm using
Multicore MM00979. What I'm using now is fresh, but I'm placing a Newark order
for other stuff and thought I might include some more solder if
- Original Message -
From: Mike [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Saturday, June 16, 2007 8:42 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] Solder shelf life (flux)?
Does solder eventually go bad? I'm sure the metal components don't, but
I wonder about the flux. I'm talking about a span of many
I just finished off a roll of Kester which was probably more than 10 years
old. It was good to the end.
Bob W2WG
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Mike
Sent: Saturday, June 16, 2007 9:43 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft
Interesting question. Where I worked for many years we had very specific
shelf life manuals on things organic like epoxies and paints and plastics. I'm
not sure if I recall any shelf life on resin core solder. I have had rolls of
the stuff that were 25 years old before they were used up, and
If you are having these medical problems, with
soldering - it might just mean that you aren't
meant to do any soldering. There are plenty of
K2 builder resources out there.
I have a very good friend who had great allergic
reactions to boat-building epoxy resins. Even years
after the boat was
I miss building the big boat anchors ... so when I needed a fume
extractor, I thought to build it myself. The store-bought models are
nice, but it's more fun this way!
These images are part of a web page that's not yet built, but since the
issue is here and now ... these are links to the
PROTECTED]
Date: 2007/01/16 Tue AM 01:59:35 EST
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Fw: [Elecraft] Solder fume extractor recommendation solicited
How about something as simple as a muffin fan on
edge near the work ...either blowing across the work
or inhaling across the work and carrying
On Tue, 16 Jan 2007, Fred (FL) wrote:
I suspect some of us are just allergic to certain
situations and fumes or chemicals. Me it is
bees ..
I used to restore antiquesand after several bad reactions, the doc told me I
could choose between the business an cortizone, or
I have a Hakko 493 and I'm quite pleased with it,
although I don't use it as often as I probably should.
It's quiet and does not take up a lot of space. I got
mine surplus for a fraction of the new price. I am
WAY too cheap to pay street for such a gizmo ... but
then again, it's not a necessity
I find myself suffering asthma-like symptoms after hunching over a
fascinating project breathing solder fumes for a few hours. My tolerance
for this hasn't improved over the years, and I have gotten into some real
panic situations because I felt that I couldn't breathe at all after
soldering
What devices would you recommend? I'm willing to spend $100, but I'd
prefer not to invest in some sort of industrial-strength device that
costs $500 or more and needs to be wheeled around. How well do these
things work for you?
I've been using a Hakko 493 for a couple of years. If you get
Dick Dievendorff wrote:
I find myself suffering asthma-like symptoms after hunching over a
fascinating project breathing solder fumes for a few hours. My
tolerance for this hasn't improved over the years, and I have gotten
into some real panic situations because I felt that I couldn't breathe
but also reduces manual dexterity.
David
G3UNA
- Original Message -
From: Dick Dievendorff [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Tuesday, January 16, 2007 1:34 AM
Subject: [Elecraft] Solder fume extractor recommendation solicited
I find myself suffering asthma-like
How about something as simple as a muffin fan on
edge near the work ...either blowing across the work
or inhaling across the work and carrying the fumes
away from the work area. You can find either 12VDC
or 115VAC versions at Radio Scrap.
73! Ken Kopp -
K0PP
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
or
[EMAIL
Robert Johansen wrote:
I found an interesting article on the internet regarding Lead free
solder:
http://www.jgpp.com/projects/lead_free_soldering/03_27_02_presentations/bmamsg.pdf
For those who visit this document, the Lead-Free Solder tests begin
on page 10 of this document.
73,
Tom
Hi Tom,
Thank you for correcting the hyperlink and adding the starting page.
The pictures and graph show another reason why we should avoid using Lead
free solder.
Merry Christmas to ALL, appreciate all of the comments, it made an
interesting read for a soldering tutorial
73,
Bob
I just received a box with K2 parts in it and #5924 on the outside, and I am
REALLY looking forward to some time off this holiday so I can dig in. But I
have a solder question before I start. I have a brand new spool of Kester
Pb-free solder (98%Sn and 2%CU+Ag) with what I recall is standard
Hi Rob,
To quote Eric Swartz:
We -strongly- recommend continuing to use regular lead based solder to
build our kits. Kester 44, and other 63/37, 60/40 lead/tin mix solders are
not going away in the US or in Eu and work much better for soldering both
RoHS and non-RoHS tinned parts. Removal
Hi Rob,
No I do not think that this solder is recommended, you may void the
warranty if you need to send the unit in to Elecraft for repair.
I built my K2 and other elctronic projects using the Kester 63/37 Tin
lead based solder that is recommended by Elecraft
Please refer to Elecraft webpage
Ok,
The point is well taken. I will use only my standard Pb/Sn for the K2 and save
the Pb-free stuff for a few specialty projects. Thanks for your input. (This
was my first question to the group - thanks for your input).
73
Rob
KC6ROC
___
Elecraft
DO NOT USE LEAD-FREE SOLDER! It's not even good for
fishing sinkers! Good old Kester, thinner .020
is the best. Try to find # SN63PB37 #58/285,
24-6337-9700, J-STD lead solder, if you can! Most
of the recommended Elecraft solder suppliers carry
it. You end up with nice joints, and not too
I hope we didn't drive you away with the answers, Rob!
Keep in mind that there is NOTHING wrong with the quality and durability of
joints that lead-free solder makes. It's great stuff that works very well.
For hand work there are two important issues that recommend against its use:
1) Lead-free
Ron D'Eau Claire [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
I hope we didn't drive you away with the answers, Rob!
snip
Nope,
Still here, and glad for the input about flux too.
KC6ROC+
___
Elecraft mailing list
Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
You must be a subscriber
I found an interesting article on the internet regarding Lead free
solder:
http://www.jgpp.com/projects/lead_free_soldering/03_27_02_presentations/b
mamsg.pdf
Now I understand the reason why its use should be avoided for electronic
kit assembly.
I have been using Kester 44 Tin lead solder for
Mike S wrote:
There are real concerns that lead-free solders are less reliable. Lead
free solder joints are more fragile -
http://www.pcbrc.com/dev/PDFs/WhitePaper-SACfragility1.pdf Little is
known about how to avoid the tin whisker problem, and the
corresponding reliability issues -
At 06:51 PM 12/21/2006, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote...
I hope we didn't drive you away with the answers, Rob!
Keep in mind that there is NOTHING wrong with the quality and
durability of
joints that lead-free solder makes. It's great stuff that works very
well.
It's very premature to make that
PROTECTED]
To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Monday, December 04, 2006 4:51 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Solder weller tips
OK what type Weller is best, gun ? Iron ? Model ?
Bob
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Hi all
My K2/100 is dispatched and awaiting arrival. I have been advised to use lead
solder for building the kit. Looking through my junk box I have found a 500g
reel of leaded solder, 0.7mm dia, it's alloy is 8 - sn63pb37, I presum this is
ok for the job in hand!!
Lastly tips, I have a weller
Ken,
I believe that solder will work fine for you - the 63/37 alloy is quite
desirable, so as long as the flux is good for electronic work, you are in
business.
Yes, a 700 degree F. tip is great. I prefer ones with a 1.5 to 3 mm
screwdriver type tip, but the conical ones work good for many
Ken,
I am currently working on building my KPA100. As far
as the tip temperature goes, I have had to turn my
temp up on several joints to about 800F especially on
many of the ground connections, as the ground plane is
very large on parts of the board. For comparison, I
believe I kept the temp
Ken,
Use the biggest 700°F Tip that you have for a given soldering job. The more
mass the tip has, the better.
Tim Raymer
Ken Chandler [EMAIL PROTECTED] 11/29/06 08:22:38
Hi all
My K2/100 is dispatched and awaiting arrival. I have been advised to use lead
solder for building the kit.
: RE: [Elecraft] Solder weller tips
Ken,
I am currently working on building my KPA100. As far
as the tip temperature goes, I have had to turn my
temp up on several joints to about 800F especially on
many of the ground connections, as the ground plane is
very large on parts of the board
I might be reading something into this issue that is not there...I get the
impression that there are some folks who believe that once the soldering iron
is hot and you clean and tin the tip, that is the only time it needs to be
done, and if you need to clean and tin it more than once, something
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