I get mine from Fire Mountain Gems--
http://www.firemountaingems.com/search.asp?skw=closed+jump
I like the 7 or 8mm ones in 20 gauge, but have used ones as small as 5mm 23
gauge with no problems. They're surprisingly strong!
-E House
___
h-costume
It looks like there's a good chance that within the year, I'll be moving to the
Seattle area. Is there anything out there of interest to h-cost type folks?
-E House, dreading packing and planning to start EARLY this time...
___
h-costume mailing
On Wed, 23 May 2007, Cynthia J Ley wrote:
I know I posted about this before, and many of you kind and knowledgable
people gave me great instructions (although I admit a certain fondness
for the one that takes you through a series of steps, followed by the
explicit directive of Curse). ;) The
I use them at room temp. My info says that using heat is not advised. I
dissolve the salt in hot water and let it come to room temp before adding
dye and soda ash. I also dissolve the soda ash in hot water and let cool.
These are the directions for dyeing cotton. If you use soda ash on
I'm aware that that there are different dyes available for protein fibers.
But according to some websites many people do use Procion dyes on wool,
they just don't get exactly the same colors. And I have lots of Procion
dyes already, so why buy more dye?
I'm not a chemist. If I value the
I have used soda ash on silk with no problems. I must admit I've
never tried it on wool. I would call Pro Chemical on the east coast.
I order my dye from either them or Dharma and they are very
knowledgeable. They will give you the definitive answer you need for
dyeing wool. Go to
That is the point. A machine-made sweater that someone gave me that did
not cost much, which I dislike so much I have never once worn it in the
7 years or so since it was given to me, and which I am making a final
attempt to like and use by dyeing it before throwing it away, is not
something
I really need a book with hats.
Anyone have any suggestions with a good history of hat book available today?
Bjarne
Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk
http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
___
h-costume mailing list
Weaving works is awesome, and I believe there's a Greater Seattle Area
Costumer's Guild...
Sorry, I'm about three hours away from there, and don't get that way very often.
LuAnn
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Date: Thu, 24 May 2007
03:24:31 -0500 CC: Subject: [h-cost]
You'll love Seattle? I spent 10 years there - college beyond. I've been
gone for 27 years but I love it every time I go visit. The city is vibrant
and you'll discover lots od history related groups there. Their theater is
also outstanding
It looks like there's a good chance that within the year, I'll be moving
to the Seattle area. Is there anything out there of interest to h-cost type
folks? -E House, dreading packing and planning to start EARLY this
time...
It depends on what period you're looking for. European history
I'm a Localite - not in Seattle itself, but across the water in a lovely
little town named Poulsbo. If you'd like to live near Seattle but not
*in* King County (which is...half city), I put forward the option of
living in Kitsap. It's cheaper, but I'm only an hour's commute away from
Seattle.
I get my brass (lacing) rings from Textol Drapery. I'm not sure you can
beat a bag of 1000 rings for $12.00. That should be enough lacing rings to
last a lifetime. The only problem is your order has to be at
least $35.00. When I ordered mine a couple of years ago they were $19 or
$20/bag and
Try Paula Burch's Low Water Immersion technique. If you Google her name, you'll
get her web site. I used it on both cotton and silk noil for some costumes I
made for a movie being shot in my area last summer. it was very easy and the
results were fabulous. She uses Procion MX dyes.
Good
14 matches
Mail list logo
