Hello Janice!
If you click on each of the boxes in turn, I think especially the last one,
you can change the way the graph/grid is arranged on the paper. Hope this
helps. If not, email the man who owns the site - Jeremy (his email address
is on there somewhere, if not, I can find it and let
I guess that should really be "Bibilla eureka" to be consistent, since both
words are Greek, but "Oya eureka" sounded better. I wish I could think of
something clever to say in Turkish, but my knowledge of Turkish begins with
Ataturk and ends with 'teshekerederem."
I finally managed to make so
O Patsy, that sounds good to me.
Happy chocolate eating
Sue M Harvey
Norfolk UK
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of
Patsy A. Goodman
Sent: 30 January 2006 01:11
To: lace@arachne.com
Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED];
[EMAIL PROTECTED];
Regarding:
> Finally, I reread the recent PieceWork article on oya and noticed that the
> oya in the last picture (the headscarf belonging to Linda Ligon) had a very
> 'plastic' look. So that's why I think that these coarse nylon threads are
> being used for oya in Turkey. Maybe someone has a fe
Oyas - if someone want's to post them, I will be glad to share a scan of
several OYA scarves that I received from Turkey in the last two years from
my brother. One is with beading. He told me these were newly made, and
done with a crochet hook.
The thread used is also in the scan and a copy of t
Foam rubber? That is too funny! I'd love to see that photo.
Seriously, since they're trying to earn a living by selling oya, using cheap
materials makes sense. Nylon thread is cheaper than natural fibers and probably
last almost indefinitely. The oya on my scarf are *extremely* sturdy. They could
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> So I'm not going to use 80 cotton any more for oya. I actually
> managed to get better results with cheap polyester sewing thread!
> I think I may use perle 8, even though it's quite coarse, because
> it comes in so many colours. Or I may unply some embroidery floss
>
Dear friends
After a false start Ive completed the lace for the garter for a
cousins wedding.
I started using a bought pricking that made a really beautiful lace but
I thought it looked to wide to make a good garter & I started to panic
about finishing it in time for the wedding. The revised desi
Dear friends
Since I've finished the garter in time I'm hoping to make a handkerchief
for the groom's Mum (What do mothers do at weddings?!!) and have to
confess that after 7 and a bit years of lace making I haven't ever
joined lace to a piece of fabric. I'd appreciate it if someone could
advise h
Hello Viv
Measure the side of the hankie and the width of the lace. You need 4
times the width of the hankie PLUS 8 times the width of the lace -
absolute minimum. Round up so that you have an even number or repeats,
and preferably a multiple of four.
Brenda
On 30 Jan 2006, at 20:36, Viv
Okay, you lost me on that one. Can you go through the math again slower?
It seems like one or the other but why both measurements?
Thanks for sharing your knowledge :D
Brenda Paternoster wrote:
Hello Viv
Measure the side of the hankie and the width of the lace. You need 4
times the width o
> Brenda Paternoster wrote:
> > Measure the side of the hankie and the width of the lace. You need 4
> > times the width of the hankie PLUS 8 times the width of the lace -
> > absolute minimum. Round up so that you have an even number or
> > repeats, and preferably a multiple of four.
[EMAIL
Once the lace is attached the total width of the hankie is fabric plus
two widths of lace. Multiply that by four and you get 4 times the
width of the fabric plus 8 times the width of the lace.
So if your hankie is, say, 10" x 10" and the lace is 1.5" wide the
overall size of the finished arti
I know I didn't start this discussion, but I want to thank everyone who
has replied. Everyone benefits when knowledge is shared :D
--
Ruth
You don't have to wear a red hat to have an attitude.
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I got back to Viv off list but thought I would wade in
after all. The simplest way, which may not appeal to
everyone I admit, is to have gathered corners, and you
only need to make the length of each side, and a bit
extra to make sure the lace will go around the corners
sitting flat.
Just another
While I agree with Donna on the explanation of the math, I disagree with
the suggestion that the corner is "mitered", but then I could be
misunderstanding the term. What I envisioned was four pieces of lace
joined (sewn together) at the corner in a mitered fashion, much like a
picture frame.
This
I think that Brenda has been talking about gathering round the corners all
along, not mitreing, as it's easier and quicker to do neatly.
Rochelle, if you think about it, the "bit extra to make sure the lace will go
around the corners sitting flat." has to be enough so the "lace goes past the
en
I finally had a chance to pull my oya/bebilla pieces out. The old colored and
finely knotted piece is older cotton and worked on the horse hair. My newer
pieces on head scarves are the stiff nylon. The scarves are very loopy and not
as "fluid" as the cotton, althought the cotton is stiffer. I
If I had a choice of cottons, 40s and 50s would probably be my first choice,
too. Unfortunately, they're not readily available in the Jerusalem area,
although Miriam tells me that she's seen some in the Tel Aviv area. So I will
stick with the coarser perle 8. But it's not as though I'm trying to ma
Basically, the lace has to extend beyond each end of each side of the
fabric by the amount of the lace's width. That's because the lace on
side A sticks out by that much, so the lace on side B must be long
enough to get to the outside edge of the lace on side A.
Measure the width of the lace.
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